The UDR is for someone who enjoys the feel of RC, I haven't had my UDR for long but the few times I have driven it my Smile was beyond my face. Whenever I jump curbs or Speed bumbs or drift in Loose Condition it feels like butter. I totally agree with you it is NOT a Basher by any means.. However just ripping it on anything its amazing
I think it’s funny how that happens with all models. People want it to look real but then want it to do toy like things. Mine drives just like a full scale desert racer. My crawler acts like the real thing. My 1/8 nitro drives like a formula one car. They don’t drive like nikko or tyco toys
Yes this is true but your comment about the name makes no sense look at every single name of a Traxxas vehicle, and none of them have basher in the name and you can bash them you just gotta be well prepared to fix it like every other RC vehicle on the market
@@nightfall4207 common sense says a dirt desert race truck isn't meant to be driven like a revo.. lol. That's like using a Nascar on a BMX track and complaining it breaks easy.. the udr can handle jumps. But not high launches like a revo can do and handle.. technically its not the trucks fault.. its the operator
How to fix? Gotta learn to drive it that’s all I can say my UDRS jump flawlessly they turn as long as yk how to use the throttle Iv ran it in sand dirt street rain snow without rollover problems so yea gotta learn to drive it
Yup, for sure. It’s akin to say a scale crawler rc and something more cheaper but can take more of a beating. I’ve seen plenty of UA-cam vids of folks bashing this...but then the problem is, different people’s expectation of what ‘bashing’ is, varies as does their bank balance to fix stuff when things break.....some launch their RCs high into the air - anything from cheapo stuff of flea bay to Losi 5T, for others, bashing is just doing small jumps at a skatepark or off a few steps etc.........now if Traxxas made this as a 1/5th scale like the 5T then it would awesome lol
you make great points. I love my udr but i think what alot of people dont realize is that the udr is mainly for scale driving. I bash mine a little and with some regular maintenance, it just keeps going. Great vid!
Hello, i red something interesting the other day. Got this from a udr facbook page. Dont know if it will help you but i found it to be verry interesting. (Sorry for my spellings) Grtz from the netherlands! Suspension Setup: The truck is based on a Gieser Brothers Chasis (Jennings - The Owner of Traxxas owns a real Gieser Truck - now you guys can understand why this truck is so different than anything they make (this truck is the owner of Traxxas's pet lol) - The real gieser brothers truck has the rear shock mounted in the exact center of the rear trailing arm and the rear dampener just far enough back from the rear shock that it has space. So if you guys have the upgraded trailing arms like the HOT RACING ones, you can mount the suspension to match the real one. More DETAIL TO #1 - SUSUPENSION MOUNTING POINTS - basically the farther back (towards the diff) you can get your suspension mounted on the lower trailing arm the better. IDEA BEHIND IT: the closer the suspension is mounted to the chassis you will get better performance in a straight line but is more unstable while turning (problems with rolling) -it can handle smaller bumps better but struggles on larger bumps.- the actual shock becomes stiffer at first then collapses because of the pre-load once you get further into the shock. (this is why you see a 4 link on drag cars) - so if your running on the asphalt doing speed runs you want the suspension mounted as close to the chassis as possible. THE OPPOSITE - Having your shock mounted as far back (closer to the diff) as possible. you will get better handling in the corners and it will be able to take the bigger bumps better! (on a short course truck, the shocks are mounted almost directly over the rear diff.) - The shock itself is initially not as stiff but exponentially become stiffer as your move through the shock So in desert trucks specifically a Gieser bros chassis they are running it 50% down the length of the trailing arm. because desert trucks don't jump as high as a stadium truck, but they still need to have control in the flat dry lake beds. Ride Hight - Your ride hight should be about 50% into your shock when standing still. so 50% of your shock shaft is exposed and 50% of your shock shaft is inside the shock. Both Front and rear. In the rear, a good indicator for this. is the arm for the rear sway bar should be perfectly flat while resting. (this is how the real truck is) Instant Center - ok guys this is where Traxxas messed this all up. Where you connect your rear upper trailing arms to the chassis. there are 3 mounting points. this is where you set the instant center. If you don't know what this is... just know you should set the trailing arm as high up as possible. There is a nifty calculator for instant center that I can post in the comments if you guys are interested but when we did the calculations the initiate center should be just a little bit higher then the mounting points Traxxas offers. so because of this the instant center all messed up! But there should be a way to fix this (I will cover this in a later post) Unsprung wieght = BAD, Sprung Weight = Good - ok guys, I am right there with you on this one,... I have all vitavon a-arms, trailing arms, diff........ and I did not know this one... UNSPRUNG WIEGHT = Anything under the shock including (a-arms, trailing arms, rear diff) is actually making the suspension not perform as good. This is why real trophy trucks make their arms strong but light as possible. SPRUNG Wieght = Any weight added the the chassis. this is actually a good thing. the chassis is too light if your going for scale performance. so the more weight you add on the chassis the better! (RECOMMEND: adding weight inside the fuel cell, there is no weight back there. and if you want it to turn like a real trophy truck, where the front inside wheel lifts , well here is your answer!!!!) SOLUTION TO UNSPRUNG WEIGHT - if your like me, and did the aluminum diff and trailing arms. just add more weight to your chassis. try and match what you added in weight on the unsprung parts. DITCH THE FRONT SWAY BAR! - Real Trophy Trucks DO NOT HAVE A FRONT SWAY BAR! why Traxxas did that - I don't know- I am thinking Because it looks cool. if you want your truck to drive like a scale trophy truck ditch it! SHOCK OIL WEIGHT - So I see a lot of guys going crazy high shock oils, first of all....... if you have added weight to your truck start off by adding stiffer springs. I am still running the stock oil 30wt in the front 60wt in the rear and I am having no issues at all. once you get stiffer spring it will keep the truck from bottoming out. If your still having issues move up by increments of 5wt. your really should not have to go straight to 100wt shock oil. There is no MAGIC NUMBER. AND is going to be completely different for each truck and each operator. but the higher you go the slower the shock is going to react, and honestly with a trophy truck, you really want to be the lightest oil possible WITHOUT bottoming out. TIP: Add a indicator on your shock shaft.... either a small O-ring or you can make a small sleave out of heat shrink, push it to the top of the shock shaft, and after running it, see how far into the shock you went. if your bottoming out. go 5 wt thicker oil. its trial and error. PLEASE NOTE: when selecting shock oil, different companies have different CST ratings for Shock OIL..... FOR EXAMPLE:Traxxas 30wt = 350 CST LOSI 30WT = 338 CST. So even though they both say 30wt. Traxxas's 30wt is actually thicker than LOSI. This is why there is no magic number. Dont fallow people that tell you to add 100 wt oil. its all about CST ratings. And finding the correct CST is completely just trail by error. But remember go by CST not WT. I hope this helps some of you that are new the UDR or just wanted to learn more about UDR tuning tips. I started welding together a steel roll cage for the UDR! will update you guys with some photos once its further along.
Hey Johnny RC other than the roller over I love the truck.Just curious will adding the rear open diff really help out the tipping over in Cornering at all?Thanx
@@pretziboy4162 he has heavy duty springs so his centre of gravity is higher because the springs lifted it up I have stock springs I am able to drift mine full speed on grass mostly any thing and it never rolls
The problem with rolling can be greatly improved by replacing the rear differential with the Traxxas limited slip differential...$49 from Traxxas. I like my UDR. No, it isn't a basher. It was designed to be as close to scale as possible of an actual race truck. It is about realism.
Sad to hear regret. Thankfully I never regretted getting any RC I have. All fun IMHO. Especially The UDR. I liked it so much I built a fully upgraded, blinged out one. My stock one I had Since late 2018. Nothing actually broke yet. I did replace the front skid plate($14) twice as it takes most of the abuse when smashing into sidewalk curbs! But generally speaking I do mild bashing plenty of jumping off ramps, lots of drifting in loose sand/dirt and unlimited doughnuts with that wonderful locked rear diff that really lays down the power. I welcome the rollovers... it always pleases the crowd and myself💖
It says in the instructions 'not for bashing'. And in the servos, you can just replace the fuse. Just take off the 4 screws and then find a replacement fuse.
I bought mine 6 months ago and I’ve spent over 2000$ in parts and it still finds ways to break I’m waiting on some vitavon parts so hopefully that will get rid of a lot of problems.
When you fill the fucking thing with aluminum all you're doing is making it heavier and more prone to breaking. RPM trailing arms, hot racing limiter straps, steel wheel hexes, and steel dogbone center driveshaft is all that's needed. Bulletproof.
For the price and quality of vitavon parts it's just not worth ...I watched alot of ppl get upset after spending hundreds on parts and they don't fit right or there's to much play in areas you don't want play
I’m sure Traxxas is completely aware of how fragile some of the parts on this truck can be. However, folks must understand that it’s simply cheaper for Traxxas to build them that way and save a boat load of money! I would love for these UDR’s to come with an option to have it upgraded on parts of your choice when you purchase it. But I don’t think that’s an option right now. So if you’re a bit of a gear head, you can do all the upgrades you want. Now after the upgrades, I haven’t really heard a lot of complaints about breaking down. The truck seems to perform pretty good.😉
I think you went into the UDR with a slight misunderstanding of it. Its not a basher like the slash, it's meant for realism, I haven't rolled it much by slowing down for turns on grip surfaces now have I had hardly any issues jumping it as long as it's in a realistic manner, people need to understand before you get the UDR you aren't getting a basher, you're getting one of the most realistic hobby grade RCs out there, amd it's meant to he treated as such
The UDR is a desert truck not a stadium truck. It’s also not a basher in any way shape or form. It is narrowly. It’s a lot of money to spend on something like that. When I use mine I keep it in an environment for which it was intended and I’m totally satisfied with it. There are far to many options if you’re looking for a basher/flyer but none of those are capable of creating the realism some hobbyists are looking for like the UDR.
This is one of the first videos that I've seen which seems to really point to the negatives which is nice to see. Just bought mine and did my research before I bought it and what no one really mentions is its a pita to work on. And for anyone that says scale driving.... Scale driving if that's the case it should have the titan brushed motor from the summit and should only top out at about 15-20 mph. What I noticed also are a lot of the plastics are super soft and there only for appearance. The sway bars in particular. I went in thinking I knew what to expect but still let down just from a solely wrenching experience. Good luck man its always a bitter pill to swallow when you lose so much but unfortunately its the name of the game. anything over half is a blessing that's from experience from selling and owning well over 50 rcs
Best RC I have is the UDR💖 I had it from late 2017 when it first came out... Still original parts except the front skid plate, servos and new tires. Other than that it's rock solid and performs very well, the rolling can be controlled I personally like the rolls especially when there are spectators watching me drive it 👍. I liked it so much I built another one all upgraded with bling for about 2,500.00 USD. Worth every penny, I was offered 3,000 for it on eBay. Not to mention it is absolutely scale and beautiful IMHO💖👍💖
If you are having a problem with it rolling what I did was first got a bigger sway bar also make sure that the swag bar is actually working if you compress one wheel the other wheel should also compress without you touching it a lot of different swag bars I’ve had have had that problem
Grab the Mojave EXB or Super Baja Rey if you want to stay with the look. If you want total basher, grab the Xmaxx. If you want a basher that won't roll as much, I would recommend the Kraton 6s or 8s.
First thing that broke on my UDR was the pinion getting loose and breaking teeth for both the spur and pinion. After that, I kept getting loose pinions not matter what. Yes, I used thread locker, even the red, but still it would slip out. When I looked closely to the shaft while manually moving the wheels to get the shaft spinning, I noticed the pinion was moving side to side!! The shaft got damaged when the first pinion locked up the spur. I had to buy a new motor to get this to work. BTW, thus all happed after the third run. Not happy.
Appreciate your honest review but you're the 1st I've heard complain about it not jumping that good. Having said that...I just sold my NIB UDR FOX Edition w/Light Kit 2 weeks ago! Lol! But I never broke the seal on the box. I just didn't have time to play with it, so I figured I'd put it on OfferUp (not really wanting to sell it) but the guy wanted it bad & he gave me more money than I paid for it, so I made money on it. But I got a lot of low ballers, of course but it sold in exactly 1 month & 2 days later. Not bad if you're patient for the right buyer to come along. But I plan on buying it again down the road when I have more time hopefully. Let us know what you plan on getting next.
@@rcproductionz555 yeah it was a pretty rare case. The more I found out about the UDR though... the more I realized that it can become a money pit.Then again that's our hobby-lol!
It is adevertised as a scale truck. But most people dont read instruction manuals or at what the manufactuer tells about it on the box. It is a very beautifull truck and i love mine and wont sell it ever because i know what i can expect from it and dont like the bashing style of driving. If you want such a vehicle there is much to choose from. My advise would be .... Look for a bash rc not a scale rc. Maybe a Arrma Kraton or Xmaxx.
I agree, she's a big girl on high heels... So rig up some limiting straps for the front and mod the rear, and she will dance. I have my udr with two inches of travel with traxxas blue type springs to absurb jumps... Does very well on turns. Hope you still own.
I've had mines for about same time as yours i have zero issues, I rolled this truck once making sharp turns on inclines but that when i forced it to roll. lol Its a pretty solid rig out the box, i don't think there no need to change out to aluminum parts unless its straight from TRAXXAS due to a defected part or area. But TRAXXAS hasn't had really none or any as far as QC is concerned. yours does sit higher than stack setup. but I leaves mines all stock until somethings breaks then ill analyze the damage and change things accordingly where needed. but that's just me
That’s why I bought the 1/10 Baja Rey. Same type suspension locked rear and scale af for half price. That said the Rey isn’t the best on our backyard short track. I need to open the rear diff, replace fluids all 3 diffs and mine rolls also. Going to unlock rear, change springs and oil, harder tires and suspension limiter straps. If that doesn’t work, moving on but I love it. It’s great running across the garden thats uneven has rocks etc… doesn’t phase it.
New trucks like that always take time before upgrades and parts tend to be expensive I paid a lot less than what your stating. And in the last few months there has been an explosion of parts
If you aren’t going for the scale experience, then this is definitely not a truck to get. I love mine but unless I’m really loose dirt or gravel I turn pretty slow if turning around etc. So while I think it’s a fantastic truck and one of my favorites actually, I can see where many would be better with a Mohave etc!
You make good points buh carnt say iv had any of them the only thing I done to mine was upgraded to full metal parts where I could and added some wight to it and it’s amazing now night and day difference from stock a lot better
I am still considering getting one however I don't 100% believe the design flaws are the problem because at some point with any RC no matter scale or not your gonna break something I do believe that owner responsibility does play some part into the weak points of this truck reason I say that is because I had a nitro sport and went to a revo 3.3 it was a pain in the ass to learn how to drive the revo because some driving inputs didn't respond well with the revo, but if I didn't learn what worked and what didn't I was gonna risk breaking a $600 truck at least at the time I bought it 12 years ago and replacing parts for that truck are not cheap either but I learned and still have fun
I see no sway bars, cant do turns without them, and you need thicker ones to turn without flipping. I bought vitavon aluminum rims, expensive yes, but they add weight low to the truck which makes it more stable at turns and bumps.
Understand how you feel and you probably should've gotten the losi or the arma, those are more bashable and will most likely suit your needs in the hobby.
I think the aluminum parts depend on what style or layout you get, some aluminum parts are basic and vulnerable and some are basic and built properly where they are tougher, I find some of the aluminum parts better than others.
Was pondering between the UDR or the Clash 4wd Ultimate. As I already have the Slash 2wd Brushless. But think you just nailed my questions and concerns on the UDR. So the Ultimate I believe will be the way to go. Much easier to work on and endless upgrade and custom options.
You are correct on most all your points . There is a limited number of products available for the UDR and they are expensive. I love trophy trucks , so I have a soft spot for the UDR . Great video bro new subscriber here
The only problems i ever had was the original ESC died, broke a front axle, and replaced two rear ring and pinions. Mine is mostly aluminum and i do beat on it worse than most, but a majority of breakages are cosmetic and the mechanical/electrical which i listed. It never was meant to be a "basher" and it actually shouldnt be used like one. Thats why there are other RCs (more often than not monster trucks) that take crashes better. Mine is getting old and worn out. It has been well worth the $699 that i paid for it November of 2018. Mine wasnt used stock the whole time i had it. Trailing arms, front driveshaft, front upper and lower arms as well as upper rear four links were replaced with upgrade parts from the moment it was pulled from the box. The way i use mine it has been great, if i want to thrash on a RC, ive got many other options and will take those instead.
I got mine in a trade too for a trx4 sport and love it I rip the hell out of it in the snow and all I've been wheelieing it on the streets ordered the proline Chris Isenhour body for it
I'm sorry you are not happy with the car that I would like to have but up to now I don't, too expensive! Thank you for honest reporting and compliments for videos...subscribed. Ciao from Italy Nanni
Do yourself a favor don't expect anything from any body or thing .You will always be disappointed The only thing you can expect on, is yourself hope you get an Rc that makes you happy .
I love my UDR all RC cars will come with a bad and the good all RC cars will need to be upgraded at some point in time of upgraded a bunch of stuff online so far don't have any complaints love it beautiful truck
Just bought one without researching. Things I hate: -Only set up to use traxxas batteries with center wires. -Front bypass shocks leaking right out of the box. -Getting to any component requires tearing the truck down. -Too many plastic parts for $750. I would not buy this truck if I had the chance. Also had to buy their packs and charger for another $500.
The packs and charger are not $500. The combo with the dual charger and 2 3s lipos is $200. You can change the connectors. There are many videos on youtube on how to do it. Never had the shocks leak. Most breakage can be fixed from underneath the vehicle. Plastic is better than metal because metal bends and plastic flexes. Can't tell you how many aluminum arrma chassis I've seen bent.
It's meant to be a scale model. Why is the constant moving of the camera so annoying? It's not meant to bash. I treat my nice slash as a run and not bash.
All I got to say is Losi Baja Rey. Nice truck though. I been into RC since I bought my first Team Associate T10 brushed haha. These were fast back then in the 90’s haha. Now I’m very happy with my Losi.
If you are rolling all the time I'd adjust your drive style before blaming the equipment. Also that suspension looks so stiff lol not to mention the lift is not how trophy trucks are even in real life. They handle so good because they have soft supple suspension with a good amount of droop so they have more down travel than up travel so as to absorb large whoops and jumps and landings. Like multiple people and traxxas has said it's a scale truck not supposed to be a basher although I've seen someone who truly bashes the shit out of one and it repeatedly takes it with no issue. Changing parts to aluminum also ensures that whatever shock those parts take will travel to the next weakest link 🤷🏻♂️. Good luck with your sale though I guess
The udr is not the the newer person to the hobby. It takes a lot of throttle control, tuning the diffs and experience! None of which i have, but still! In the right hands it's a one of kind rc!
If you wanted a basher, get a slash or xmaxx. If you really wanted a racer, a slash is better and the mojave is better. You dont look at the UDR as your first rc car unless you rich af and willing to spend a ton on replacing parts when you crash. Almost every upgraded aluminum part for every rc car is going to be expensive like 200 dollars for extended aluminum suspension arms kit I guess on looser surfaces, the rollover likelihood is lower. Also dont move the camera as much (ie. dont tilt is as much, dont move it in and out as much and dont pan as much). Keep it more stationary please. Good video nonetheless pointing out the bad things about running a car like this like the costs of these larger parts. That is what happens when going from a 1/10th scale to a 1/7th scale and larger. I am thinking about either getting the UDR or slash. How is the difficulty of maintenance of the UDR compared to the Slash. I love the realism of the UDR, but it is a bit expensive and im worried about having a car the is a nightmare to work on. I have a 2 stroke 1/5th scale rc and that thing broke all the time and is kinda a pain to work on.
I had mine for a few months and already kill the esc and motor and is being a pain in the @ss fix the planetary gears. Get that metal or vitavon and rear diff case and you can Racer like if is stolen after that. 💪🤣🤣
Truck is a superb pro scale machines that not even looks amazing, has alot of tuning upgrades, but drives like a beast if you know what ur doing.. Wanna a basher just get a 300 dollar dhk zombie ant that will fit the purpose. UDR is a masterpiece, that have to be looked after. I have UDR and SBR2. Love the scale driving and looks. Did had a dhk zombie before, good cheap basher.
First pain in the ass part is just removing the body, my X Maxx, Slash, Rustler 4x4 vxl are so easy compared to this, getting at anything is also a royal pain let alone cleaning it when its been playing on a wet day. And yes seem to just look at it and it falls over, of them all i love the Rustler most
I've only had to remove the body 3 times in the year that I've owned it. Most breakage happens underneath the truck. You have to learn how to drive it. You can't just pin it at full throttle and turn as sharp as possible and get pissed off because it flipped over. It's not very easy to drive. That's why traxxas ranks it at skill level 5.
@@gasolinediesel972 I other words drive very slowly around a dry lawn, keep away from anywhere you would normally take an OFFROAD rc car lol Sounds like yours doesnt get cleaned/lubed very often. All of mine get a thorough clean/lube every outing, take the body off and they look like new. That is when it doesnt take 10 minutes to get the body off then still cant get at most of it to clean/lube it properly. Body breaks easily as well, especially at the top of the A pillars.
@@shanerunciman7960 I'm not gonna clean a beat up rc car that will just get dirty in 5 minutes. It looks cooler anyways when it has mud slung on the fenders and the wheels are covered in dirt.
@@shanerunciman7960 It's beat up because I actually use it unlike you. When you start sending it off of 10 foot + high jumps it doesn't always land the way you want it to.
Okay honestly I've had a slash two wheel drive a wrestler two wheel drive I've had a Slash 4x4 and I also got an axial yeti XL okay compared to all of them and compared to what I break on them I'd say the UDR is pretty cheap on parts you know when I took out the slash you know I was breaking you know two to four you know rear a arms each time are you put in consideration those cost 10 bucks a piece then you know I mean 10 bucks for a pair you know you go you can go on eBay and buy you know a UDR you know little lot that you know has a sway bars the upper trailing arms the lower trailing arms and the right upper and lower a arms for about 20 bucks it ain't that bad for price no I imagine you go through Traxxas some selves and you know you get stuff that is still in the package now even though the stuff I buy is technically still new with these are people that take apart the trucks and sell them you know but you got through Traxxas I imagine it's a little bit more expensive but you know that's just where you go only thing I really had an issue with and I mean my little brother is even tried to beat the hell out of this truck with a freaking piece of angled steel ended up bending a half inch thick piece of angled steel but you know only thing that really broke on my truck was he dented a shock he broke an a arm and he broke a drive shaft in a diff cup so you know what in my eyes it's holding up pretty good for being a lot of plastic
Traxxas quality SUCKS. This 30+ pound truck has way too many cheap plastic parts… The worst one is definitely the front drive shaft… IT’S Plastic!!! If you want to end up with a half decent truck, you’ll need to drop $200+ in upgrades.
YA ITS NOT MADE FOR JUMPING…. TROPHY TRUCKS ARE MADE TO SUCK UP ALL THE BUMPS AN JUMPS TO KEEP THE WHEELS ON THE GROUND FOR CONSTANT TRACTION. 😉🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
All basher rigs out ther are flat bed builds,, if one is a hard basher one would no to aim for a truck were the wheels are massively exposed not tucked in the body, the trucks made for those who dont realy bash ,scale racing? Weak points like the full size version break the same ,wheel hex I agree and few others u said! ... Wen I use mine I jump but never bottom out the shocks, jumping off a dirt jump land smoothly on down slope like the full size!!! Menny feet in the air naa !!!! Personally I think Chelsea slaps are gross/ grotesque.💚💪🏾🌠🔥💚
Wtf any body who buy a rc knows rc scale iw not a basher wtf there is no other rc truck better than this one u need basher rc but a basher rc not scale rc
I wanted a UDR bad for a few years. I decided to get one. I went to the hobby shop and knowing the price already I was a bit reluctant. Then the videos and comparisons I’ve see ran through my head. I saw the Losi Baja Rey on the shelf and it has much in common such as the realistic rear suspension with big travel, locked rear diff. The differences are udr is heavier and takes two heavy batteries and a larger scale and my track is small short course so with that in consideration I bought the Losi Baja Rey. After using thicker center diff oil and on 3s it’s plenty of truck and also has sway bars.
What do you think that you will get next?
Keeping the rustler and making that the next build. Nothing major. Just new shoes and shocks
Broke
The UDR is for someone who enjoys the feel of RC,
I haven't had my UDR for long but the few times I have driven it my Smile was beyond my face.
Whenever I jump curbs or Speed bumbs or drift in Loose Condition it feels like butter.
I totally agree with you it is NOT a Basher by any means..
However just ripping it on anything its amazing
They even said it's for display and scale looks. It's called a desert racer not basher
I think it’s funny how that happens with all models. People want it to look real but then want it to do toy like things. Mine drives just like a full scale desert racer. My crawler acts like the real thing. My 1/8 nitro drives like a formula one car. They don’t drive like nikko or tyco toys
Yes this is true but your comment about the name makes no sense look at every single name of a Traxxas vehicle, and none of them have basher in the name and you can bash them you just gotta be well prepared to fix it like every other RC vehicle on the market
@@nightfall4207 common sense says a dirt desert race truck isn't meant to be driven like a revo.. lol. That's like using a Nascar on a BMX track and complaining it breaks easy.. the udr can handle jumps. But not high launches like a revo can do and handle.. technically its not the trucks fault.. its the operator
How to fix? Gotta learn to drive it that’s all I can say my UDRS jump flawlessly they turn as long as yk how to use the throttle Iv ran it in sand dirt street rain snow without rollover problems so yea gotta learn to drive it
It is not a beginner rc but if you love tweaking and tuning I think it is definitely an awesome truck
Yup, for sure. It’s akin to say a scale crawler rc and something more cheaper but can take more of a beating. I’ve seen plenty of UA-cam vids of folks bashing this...but then the problem is, different people’s expectation of what ‘bashing’ is, varies as does their bank balance to fix stuff when things break.....some launch their RCs high into the air - anything from cheapo stuff of flea bay to Losi 5T, for others, bashing is just doing small jumps at a skatepark or off a few steps etc.........now if Traxxas made this as a 1/5th scale like the 5T then it would awesome lol
you make great points. I love my udr but i think what alot of people dont realize is that the udr is mainly for scale driving. I bash mine a little and with some regular maintenance, it just keeps going. Great vid!
Hello, i red something interesting the other day. Got this from a udr facbook page.
Dont know if it will help you but i found it to be verry interesting. (Sorry for my spellings)
Grtz from the netherlands!
Suspension Setup:
The truck is based on a Gieser Brothers Chasis (Jennings - The Owner of Traxxas owns a real Gieser Truck - now you guys can understand why this truck is so different than anything they make (this truck is the owner of Traxxas's pet lol) - The real gieser brothers truck has the rear shock mounted in the exact center of the rear trailing arm and the rear dampener just far enough back from the rear shock that it has space. So if you guys have the upgraded trailing arms like the HOT RACING ones, you can mount the suspension to match the real one.
More DETAIL TO #1 - SUSUPENSION MOUNTING POINTS - basically the farther back (towards the diff) you can get your suspension mounted on the lower trailing arm the better. IDEA BEHIND IT: the closer the suspension is mounted to the chassis you will get better performance in a straight line but is more unstable while turning (problems with rolling) -it can handle smaller bumps better but struggles on larger bumps.- the actual shock becomes stiffer at first then collapses because of the pre-load once you get further into the shock. (this is why you see a 4 link on drag cars) - so if your running on the asphalt doing speed runs you want the suspension mounted as close to the chassis as possible. THE OPPOSITE - Having your shock mounted as far back (closer to the diff) as possible. you will get better handling in the corners and it will be able to take the bigger bumps better! (on a short course truck, the shocks are mounted almost directly over the rear diff.) - The shock itself is initially not as stiff but exponentially become stiffer as your move through the shock So in desert trucks specifically a Gieser bros chassis they are running it 50% down the length of the trailing arm. because desert trucks don't jump as high as a stadium truck, but they still need to have control in the flat dry lake beds.
Ride Hight - Your ride hight should be about 50% into your shock when standing still. so 50% of your shock shaft is exposed and 50% of your shock shaft is inside the shock. Both Front and rear. In the rear, a good indicator for this. is the arm for the rear sway bar should be perfectly flat while resting. (this is how the real truck is)
Instant Center - ok guys this is where Traxxas messed this all up. Where you connect your rear upper trailing arms to the chassis. there are 3 mounting points. this is where you set the instant center. If you don't know what this is... just know you should set the trailing arm as high up as possible. There is a nifty calculator for instant center that I can post in the comments if you guys are interested but when we did the calculations the initiate center should be just a little bit higher then the mounting points Traxxas offers. so because of this the instant center all messed up! But there should be a way to fix this (I will cover this in a later post)
Unsprung wieght = BAD, Sprung Weight = Good - ok guys, I am right there with you on this one,... I have all vitavon a-arms, trailing arms, diff........ and I did not know this one... UNSPRUNG WIEGHT = Anything under the shock including (a-arms, trailing arms, rear diff) is actually making the suspension not perform as good. This is why real trophy trucks make their arms strong but light as possible. SPRUNG Wieght = Any weight added the the chassis. this is actually a good thing. the chassis is too light if your going for scale performance. so the more weight you add on the chassis the better! (RECOMMEND: adding weight inside the fuel cell, there is no weight back there. and if you want it to turn like a real trophy truck, where the front inside wheel lifts , well here is your answer!!!!) SOLUTION TO UNSPRUNG WEIGHT - if your like me, and did the aluminum diff and trailing arms. just add more weight to your chassis. try and match what you added in weight on the unsprung parts.
DITCH THE FRONT SWAY BAR! - Real Trophy Trucks DO NOT HAVE A FRONT SWAY BAR! why Traxxas did that - I don't know- I am thinking Because it looks cool. if you want your truck to drive like a scale trophy truck ditch it!
SHOCK OIL WEIGHT - So I see a lot of guys going crazy high shock oils, first of all....... if you have added weight to your truck start off by adding stiffer springs. I am still running the stock oil 30wt in the front 60wt in the rear and I am having no issues at all. once you get stiffer spring it will keep the truck from bottoming out. If your still having issues move up by increments of 5wt. your really should not have to go straight to 100wt shock oil. There is no MAGIC NUMBER. AND is going to be completely different for each truck and each operator. but the higher you go the slower the shock is going to react, and honestly with a trophy truck, you really want to be the lightest oil possible WITHOUT bottoming out. TIP: Add a indicator on your shock shaft.... either a small O-ring or you can make a small sleave out of heat shrink, push it to the top of the shock shaft, and after running it, see how far into the shock you went. if your bottoming out. go 5 wt thicker oil. its trial and error. PLEASE NOTE: when selecting shock oil, different companies have different CST ratings for Shock OIL..... FOR EXAMPLE:Traxxas 30wt = 350 CST LOSI 30WT = 338 CST. So even though they both say 30wt. Traxxas's 30wt is actually thicker than LOSI. This is why there is no magic number. Dont fallow people that tell you to add 100 wt oil. its all about CST ratings. And finding the correct CST is completely just trail by error. But remember go by CST not WT.
I hope this helps some of you that are new the UDR or just wanted to learn more about UDR tuning tips. I started welding together a steel roll cage for the UDR! will update you guys with some photos once its further along.
Thankyou, this will definitely help
Thank you for all this information I'm sure it took you a while to figure this all out
Hey Johnny RC other than the roller over I love the truck.Just curious will adding the rear open diff really help out the tipping over in Cornering at all?Thanx
The reason y it rolls is because the rear axle is a spool not a differential.
The truck is top heavy too so that's one of the causes
@@pretziboy4162 No it isn't. It's the spool and the solid axle that causes it.
@@gasolinediesel972 oh, i see, it's just I've heard ppl say that
@@pretziboy4162 The differential kit will eliminate the rolling over problem.
@@pretziboy4162 he has heavy duty springs so his centre of gravity is higher because the springs lifted it up I have stock springs I am able to drift mine full speed on grass mostly any thing and it never rolls
The problem with rolling can be greatly improved by replacing the rear differential with the Traxxas limited slip differential...$49 from Traxxas. I like my UDR. No, it isn't a basher. It was designed to be as close to scale as possible of an actual race truck. It is about realism.
Sad to hear regret. Thankfully I never regretted getting any RC I have. All fun IMHO. Especially The UDR. I liked it so much I built a fully upgraded, blinged out one. My stock one I had Since late 2018. Nothing actually broke yet. I did replace the front skid plate($14) twice as it takes most of the abuse when smashing into sidewalk curbs! But generally speaking I do mild bashing plenty of jumping off ramps, lots of drifting in loose sand/dirt and unlimited doughnuts with that wonderful locked rear diff that really lays down the power. I welcome the rollovers... it always pleases the crowd and myself💖
It says in the instructions 'not for bashing'. And in the servos, you can just replace the fuse. Just take off the 4 screws and then find a replacement fuse.
I bought mine 6 months ago and I’ve spent over 2000$ in parts and it still finds ways to break I’m waiting on some vitavon parts so hopefully that will get rid of a lot of problems.
Vitavon makes badass parts bro
Indeed they do. I wish you could get them from China without waiting a month though. Their bead locks are sweet but super expensive
When you fill the fucking thing with aluminum all you're doing is making it heavier and more prone to breaking. RPM trailing arms, hot racing limiter straps, steel wheel hexes, and steel dogbone center driveshaft is all that's needed. Bulletproof.
For the price and quality of vitavon parts it's just not worth ...I watched alot of ppl get upset after spending hundreds on parts and they don't fit right or there's to much play in areas you don't want play
@gasolinediesel972 rpm for life they make the strong plastic part you can fine
I’m sure Traxxas is completely aware of how fragile some of the parts on this truck can be. However, folks must understand that it’s simply cheaper for Traxxas to build them that way and save a boat load of money! I would love for these UDR’s to come with an option to have it upgraded on parts of your choice when you purchase it. But I don’t think that’s an option right now. So if you’re a bit of a gear head, you can do all the upgrades you want. Now after the upgrades, I haven’t really heard a lot of complaints about breaking down. The truck seems to perform pretty good.😉
I think you went into the UDR with a slight misunderstanding of it. Its not a basher like the slash, it's meant for realism, I haven't rolled it much by slowing down for turns on grip surfaces now have I had hardly any issues jumping it as long as it's in a realistic manner, people need to understand before you get the UDR you aren't getting a basher, you're getting one of the most realistic hobby grade RCs out there, amd it's meant to he treated as such
You should use longer bolts on the lower shock mounts on the rear.
The UDR is a desert truck not a stadium truck. It’s also not a basher in any way shape or form. It is narrowly. It’s a lot of money to spend on something like that. When I use mine I keep it in an environment for which it was intended and I’m totally satisfied with it. There are far to many options if you’re looking for a basher/flyer but none of those are capable of creating the realism some hobbyists are looking for like the UDR.
This is one of the first videos that I've seen which seems to really point to the negatives which is nice to see. Just bought mine and did my research before I bought it and what no one really mentions is its a pita to work on. And for anyone that says scale driving.... Scale driving if that's the case it should have the titan brushed motor from the summit and should only top out at about 15-20 mph. What I noticed also are a lot of the plastics are super soft and there only for appearance. The sway bars in particular. I went in thinking I knew what to expect but still let down just from a solely wrenching experience.
Good luck man its always a bitter pill to swallow when you lose so much but unfortunately its the name of the game. anything over half is a blessing that's from experience from selling and owning well over 50 rcs
Best RC I have is the UDR💖 I had it from late 2017 when it first came out... Still original parts except the front skid plate, servos and new tires. Other than that it's rock solid and performs very well, the rolling can be controlled I personally like the rolls especially when there are spectators watching me drive it 👍. I liked it so much I built another one all upgraded with bling for about 2,500.00 USD. Worth every penny, I was offered 3,000 for it on eBay. Not to mention it is absolutely scale and beautiful IMHO💖👍💖
*buyers truck that's says "not a basher" then procedes to complain about it not performing like a basher
Only issue I had was the motor overheating. And some minor driveline weaknesses.
Oh dam ur from AZ? i gotta subscribe!!💯
Bruh “even when I had no sway bar it really liked to roll”
If you are having a problem with it rolling what I did was first got a bigger sway bar also make sure that the swag bar is actually working if you compress one wheel the other wheel should also compress without you touching it a lot of different swag bars I’ve had have had that problem
And also running no sway bar will cause it to roll a lot more
Grab the Mojave EXB or Super Baja Rey if you want to stay with the look. If you want total basher, grab the Xmaxx. If you want a basher that won't roll as much, I would recommend the Kraton 6s or 8s.
First thing that broke on my UDR was the pinion getting loose and breaking teeth for both the spur and pinion. After that, I kept getting loose pinions not matter what. Yes, I used thread locker, even the red, but still it would slip out. When I looked closely to the shaft while manually moving the wheels to get the shaft spinning, I noticed the pinion was moving side to side!! The shaft got damaged when the first pinion locked up the spur. I had to buy a new motor to get this to work. BTW, thus all happed after the third run. Not happy.
Appreciate your honest review but you're the 1st I've heard complain about it not jumping that good. Having said that...I just sold my NIB UDR FOX Edition w/Light Kit 2 weeks ago! Lol! But I never broke the seal on the box. I just didn't have time to play with it, so I figured I'd put it on OfferUp (not really wanting to sell it) but the guy wanted it bad & he gave me more money than I paid for it, so I made money on it. But I got a lot of low ballers, of course but it sold in exactly 1 month & 2 days later. Not bad if you're patient for the right buyer to come along. But I plan on buying it again down the road when I have more time hopefully. Let us know what you plan on getting next.
Thank you for the positive feedback, surprised you made money off the car, when we sell cars we lose money off them.😂
@@rcproductionz555 yeah it was a pretty rare case. The more I found out about the UDR though... the more I realized that it can become a money pit.Then again that's our hobby-lol!
It is adevertised as a scale truck. But most people dont read instruction manuals or at what the manufactuer tells about it on the box. It is a very beautifull truck and i love mine and wont sell it ever because i know what i can expect from it and dont like the bashing style of driving. If you want such a vehicle there is much to choose from. My advise would be .... Look for a bash rc not a scale rc.
Maybe a Arrma Kraton or Xmaxx.
Arrma Mojave V2
X-Maxx... it's my favorite RC and I'm an RC Plane guy!
I agree, she's a big girl on high heels... So rig up some limiting straps for the front and mod the rear, and she will dance. I have my udr with two inches of travel with traxxas blue type springs to absurb jumps... Does very well on turns. Hope you still own.
What should I buy
I've had mines for about same time as yours i have zero issues, I rolled this truck once making sharp turns on inclines but that when i forced it to roll. lol Its a pretty solid rig out the box, i don't think there no need to change out to aluminum parts unless its straight from TRAXXAS due to a defected part or area. But TRAXXAS hasn't had really none or any as far as QC is concerned. yours does sit higher than stack setup. but I leaves mines all stock until somethings breaks then ill analyze the damage and change things accordingly where needed. but that's just me
Those tires have a lot of grip and your truck is raised that’s probably why you are rolling a lot
It’s actually because it’s got a spool instead of a rear diff which doesn’t allow the truck to turn unless you’re on loose terrain
That’s why I bought the 1/10 Baja Rey. Same type suspension locked rear and scale af for half price. That said the Rey isn’t the best on our backyard short track. I need to open the rear diff, replace fluids all 3 diffs and mine rolls also. Going to unlock rear, change springs and oil, harder tires and suspension limiter straps. If that doesn’t work, moving on but I love it. It’s great running across the garden thats uneven has rocks etc… doesn’t phase it.
New trucks like that always take time before upgrades and parts tend to be expensive I paid a lot less than what your stating. And in the last few months there has been an explosion of parts
If you aren’t going for the scale experience, then this is definitely not a truck to get.
I love mine but unless I’m really loose dirt or gravel I turn pretty slow if turning around etc.
So while I think it’s a fantastic truck and one of my favorites actually, I can see where many would be better with a Mohave etc!
You make good points buh carnt say iv had any of them the only thing I done to mine was upgraded to full metal parts where I could and added some wight to it and it’s amazing now night and day difference from stock a lot better
I am still considering getting one however I don't 100% believe the design flaws are the problem because at some point with any RC no matter scale or not your gonna break something I do believe that owner responsibility does play some part into the weak points of this truck reason I say that is because I had a nitro sport and went to a revo 3.3 it was a pain in the ass to learn how to drive the revo because some driving inputs didn't respond well with the revo, but if I didn't learn what worked and what didn't I was gonna risk breaking a $600 truck at least at the time I bought it 12 years ago and replacing parts for that truck are not cheap either but I learned and still have fun
It rolls easy due to it being a locked rear end so it’s meant to be driven on dirt and loose gravel
How much are you asking for it
I see no sway bars, cant do turns without them, and you need thicker ones to turn without flipping. I bought vitavon aluminum rims, expensive yes, but they add weight low to the truck which makes it more stable at turns and bumps.
Still for sale?
Understand how you feel and you probably should've gotten the losi or the arma, those are more bashable and will most likely suit your needs in the hobby.
Yup. The Mojave 1/7 6S, BigRock 1/10 3S, losi SBR 1/6 8S and baja rey raptor 1/10 3S
I think the aluminum parts depend on what style or layout you get, some aluminum parts are basic and vulnerable and some are basic and built properly where they are tougher, I find some of the aluminum parts better than others.
Was pondering between the UDR or the Clash 4wd Ultimate. As I already have the Slash 2wd Brushless. But think you just nailed my questions and concerns on the UDR. So the Ultimate I believe will be the way to go. Much easier to work on and endless upgrade and custom options.
You said you put back the plastic parts and you love it then immediately said you regret buying it?!? 🤔
You are correct on most all your points . There is a limited number of products available for the UDR and they are expensive. I love trophy trucks , so I have a soft spot for the UDR . Great video bro new subscriber here
The only problems i ever had was the original ESC died, broke a front axle, and replaced two rear ring and pinions. Mine is mostly aluminum and i do beat on it worse than most, but a majority of breakages are cosmetic and the mechanical/electrical which i listed. It never was meant to be a "basher" and it actually shouldnt be used like one. Thats why there are other RCs (more often than not monster trucks) that take crashes better. Mine is getting old and worn out. It has been well worth the $699 that i paid for it November of 2018. Mine wasnt used stock the whole time i had it. Trailing arms, front driveshaft, front upper and lower arms as well as upper rear four links were replaced with upgrade parts from the moment it was pulled from the box. The way i use mine it has been great, if i want to thrash on a RC, ive got many other options and will take those instead.
I traded for a udr and I love it so far but only got to run in parking lot cause of snow
I bought mine last February 9, 2021. Can’t wait to play it after winter
I got mine in a trade too for a trx4 sport and love it I rip the hell out of it in the snow and all I've been wheelieing it on the streets ordered the proline Chris Isenhour body for it
You can install bypass shocks😊
I haven't broken mine yet jumps good too I love it its upgraded already got it in a trade for a trx4 sport
I'd expect it to do no more and no less that it's full scale counterpart. I don't expect to send it and do twelve flips before landing.
I'm sorry you are not happy with the car that I would like to have but up to now I don't, too expensive! Thank you for honest reporting and compliments for videos...subscribed. Ciao from Italy Nanni
Nah this truck rips on and off the track, Its not a basher, never claimed to be. This truck is for more sophisticated people. Dummies' cant drive it.
Let’s not get even started on how much tires cost
730 dollarinos is cheap, bought one today 1000usd just for the car, with a smartcharger and two 3s 5000mah batteries came to 1300 usd here in Norway
Its a scale trophy truck, maybe rolls a bit more then a real trophy truck but the suspension is killer.
Do yourself a favor don't expect anything from any body or thing .You will always be disappointed The only thing you can expect on, is yourself hope you get an Rc that makes you happy .
I love my UDR all RC cars will come with a bad and the good all RC cars will need to be upgraded at some point in time of upgraded a bunch of stuff online so far don't have any complaints love it beautiful truck
Just bought one without researching. Things I hate:
-Only set up to use traxxas batteries with center wires.
-Front bypass shocks leaking right out of the box.
-Getting to any component requires tearing the truck down.
-Too many plastic parts for $750.
I would not buy this truck if I had the chance. Also had to buy their packs and charger for another $500.
The packs and charger are not $500. The combo with the dual charger and 2 3s lipos is $200. You can change the connectors. There are many videos on youtube on how to do it. Never had the shocks leak. Most breakage can be fixed from underneath the vehicle. Plastic is better than metal because metal bends and plastic flexes. Can't tell you how many aluminum arrma chassis I've seen bent.
Wanna sell it?
Well, yeah. It’s not a badger! It’s a scale driving rc truck! You want a basher get an xmaxx or something along those lines
Imagine polymer parts? Hmmmm
Should of got basher desert tuck then
It's meant to be a scale model. Why is the constant moving of the camera so annoying? It's not meant to bash. I treat my nice slash as a run and not bash.
Hmmmmm interesting,have only ran it a couple times but will sell it.
well, if you knew it was meant for scaling, WHY did you buy it for bashing?????
All I got to say is Losi Baja Rey.
Nice truck though.
I been into RC since I bought my first Team Associate T10 brushed haha.
These were fast back then in the 90’s haha.
Now I’m very happy with my Losi.
You have to change your driving style.....its not a basher.....put an open diff in it....lower it....it sits too high....run it on 4s....
If you are rolling all the time I'd adjust your drive style before blaming the equipment. Also that suspension looks so stiff lol not to mention the lift is not how trophy trucks are even in real life. They handle so good because they have soft supple suspension with a good amount of droop so they have more down travel than up travel so as to absorb large whoops and jumps and landings. Like multiple people and traxxas has said it's a scale truck not supposed to be a basher although I've seen someone who truly bashes the shit out of one and it repeatedly takes it with no issue. Changing parts to aluminum also ensures that whatever shock those parts take will travel to the next weakest link 🤷🏻♂️. Good luck with your sale though I guess
lol all reasons they say and you expected differently??
If I search this car up on UA-cam this is the only negative vid I see.
The udr is not the the newer person to the hobby. It takes a lot of throttle control, tuning the diffs and experience! None of which i have, but still! In the right hands it's a one of kind rc!
I'll take it off your hands for a discount lmao🤣🤣🤣
yea not a basher exactly why i like the look of it i see no need to jump any thing cray high
If u regret it you can always give it to me :D
Or me I have plenty of bashers and I'm looking for something more realistic
If you wanted a basher, get a slash or xmaxx. If you really wanted a racer, a slash is better and the mojave is better.
You dont look at the UDR as your first rc car unless you rich af and willing to spend a ton on replacing parts when you crash.
Almost every upgraded aluminum part for every rc car is going to be expensive like 200 dollars for extended aluminum suspension arms kit
I guess on looser surfaces, the rollover likelihood is lower.
Also dont move the camera as much (ie. dont tilt is as much, dont move it in and out as much and dont pan as much). Keep it more stationary please.
Good video nonetheless pointing out the bad things about running a car like this like the costs of these larger parts. That is what happens when going from a 1/10th scale to a 1/7th scale and larger.
I am thinking about either getting the UDR or slash. How is the difficulty of maintenance of the UDR compared to the Slash. I love the realism of the UDR, but it is a bit expensive and im worried about having a car the is a nightmare to work on. I have a 2 stroke 1/5th scale rc and that thing broke all the time and is kinda a pain to work on.
I had mine for a few months and already kill the esc and motor and is being a pain in the @ss fix the planetary gears. Get that metal or vitavon and rear diff case and you can Racer like if is stolen after that. 💪🤣🤣
Truck is a superb pro scale machines that not even looks amazing, has alot of tuning upgrades, but drives like a beast if you know what ur doing.. Wanna a basher just get a 300 dollar dhk zombie ant that will fit the purpose. UDR is a masterpiece, that have to be looked after. I have UDR and SBR2. Love the scale driving and looks. Did had a dhk zombie before, good cheap basher.
It's literally a scale truck. As in opposite of a basher.
I love my UDR but just for scale, my Mojave is my “go to” for racing and bashing.
All this camera motion is making me sea sick.
Why didn't you just buy an xmaxx smfh
You are complaining about expensive spare parts? You have a workshop with tools! Make your own parts and slam 'm on your truck.
Mine is garbage l break something everytime l drive and lm not over driving
I have seven and not one breaks parts. Maybe yours was made in China lmao.
I feel a Mojave would have been a better pick for you.
Get a Mohave, not a shelf queen if you want a basher.
Lolllllll
Seems to me, you bought a bunch of useless upgrades. Honestly you tried making it a basher. When you should just enjoy the point of the truck.
First pain in the ass part is just removing the body, my X Maxx, Slash, Rustler 4x4 vxl are so easy compared to this, getting at anything is also a royal pain let alone cleaning it when its been playing on a wet day. And yes seem to just look at it and it falls over, of them all i love the Rustler most
I've only had to remove the body 3 times in the year that I've owned it. Most breakage happens underneath the truck. You have to learn how to drive it. You can't just pin it at full throttle and turn as sharp as possible and get pissed off because it flipped over. It's not very easy to drive. That's why traxxas ranks it at skill level 5.
@@gasolinediesel972 I other words drive very slowly around a dry lawn, keep away from anywhere you would normally take an OFFROAD rc car lol Sounds like yours doesnt get cleaned/lubed very often. All of mine get a thorough clean/lube every outing, take the body off and they look like new. That is when it doesnt take 10 minutes to get the body off then still cant get at most of it to clean/lube it properly. Body breaks easily as well, especially at the top of the A pillars.
@@shanerunciman7960 I'm not gonna clean a beat up rc car that will just get dirty in 5 minutes. It looks cooler anyways when it has mud slung on the fenders and the wheels are covered in dirt.
Why is it a beat up RC car? Haven’t learnt to drive it yet? Lol no cleaning/ maintenance, very clever lmao
@@shanerunciman7960 It's beat up because I actually use it unlike you. When you start sending it off of 10 foot + high jumps it doesn't always land the way you want it to.
Okay honestly I've had a slash two wheel drive a wrestler two wheel drive I've had a Slash 4x4 and I also got an axial yeti XL okay compared to all of them and compared to what I break on them I'd say the UDR is pretty cheap on parts you know when I took out the slash you know I was breaking you know two to four you know rear a arms each time are you put in consideration those cost 10 bucks a piece then you know I mean 10 bucks for a pair you know you go you can go on eBay and buy you know a UDR you know little lot that you know has a sway bars the upper trailing arms the lower trailing arms and the right upper and lower a arms for about 20 bucks it ain't that bad for price no I imagine you go through Traxxas some selves and you know you get stuff that is still in the package now even though the stuff I buy is technically still new with these are people that take apart the trucks and sell them you know but you got through Traxxas I imagine it's a little bit more expensive but you know that's just where you go only thing I really had an issue with and I mean my little brother is even tried to beat the hell out of this truck with a freaking piece of angled steel ended up bending a half inch thick piece of angled steel but you know only thing that really broke on my truck was he dented a shock he broke an a arm and he broke a drive shaft in a diff cup so you know what in my eyes it's holding up pretty good for being a lot of plastic
Dude then give the rc udr to me ship it to me
UDR backflip once successful
Traxxas quality SUCKS. This 30+ pound truck has way too many cheap plastic parts… The worst one is definitely the front drive shaft… IT’S Plastic!!!
If you want to end up with a half decent truck, you’ll need to drop $200+ in upgrades.
YA ITS NOT MADE FOR JUMPING…. TROPHY TRUCKS ARE MADE TO SUCK UP ALL THE BUMPS AN JUMPS TO KEEP THE WHEELS ON THE GROUND FOR CONSTANT TRACTION. 😉🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
All basher rigs out ther are flat bed builds,, if one is a hard basher one would no to aim for a truck were the wheels are massively exposed not tucked in the body, the trucks made for those who dont realy bash ,scale racing?
Weak points like the full size version break the same ,wheel hex I agree and few others u said! ...
Wen I use mine I jump but never bottom out the shocks, jumping off a dirt jump land smoothly on down slope like the full size!!! Menny feet in the air naa !!!! Personally I think Chelsea slaps are gross/ grotesque.💚💪🏾🌠🔥💚
Are you on drugs ?? can't you stand still for a moment ??
Suspension is too hi fam
The hexes are all traxxas cars
I have a Baja rey 1:10 and love it. If you are looking for a cheaper desert racer and dont mind the 10th scale, the baja rey is worth it.
I had the Baja Rey and loved it, check from the earlier vids.
Traxxass is barely hobby grade and belongs in Wal-Mart
Dumbest comment I’ve ever seen, can someone say broke?
I have seen it bashed hard here on UA-cam
Wtf any body who buy a rc knows rc scale iw not a basher wtf there is no other rc truck better than this one u need basher rc but a basher rc not scale rc
Put a body on it. It looks terrible.
200th like
I wanted a UDR bad for a few years. I decided to get one. I went to the hobby shop and knowing the price already I was a bit reluctant. Then the videos and comparisons I’ve see ran through my head. I saw the Losi Baja Rey on the shelf and it has much in common such as the realistic rear suspension with big travel, locked rear diff. The differences are udr is heavier and takes two heavy batteries and a larger scale and my track is small short course so with that in consideration I bought the Losi Baja Rey. After using thicker center diff oil and on 3s it’s plenty of truck and also has sway bars.