Jeep Wrangler JK Lower Intake Manifold Replacement
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- Oil leaking from above the oil pan? Do you see oil on the bell housing or on the front of the timing chain cover? You could have a leak in the lower intake manifold. This video applies to any Jeep vehicle with the 3.8L V6, mainly found on 2007-2011 Wrangler JK's: this video uses a 2008 Wrangler JK. As part of the lower manifold replacement, you also will need to drain the engine coolant and this video will show you that as well.
To get to the lower manifold, you will need to remove the upper intake manifold. Those steps are found in a previous video on replacing the fuel injectors here: • Jeep Wrangler JK Fuel ...
I know this is two years old already... But your video really helped me out! Great video, great details, plain and to the point. Thank you very much.
Thanks!
Thanks for uploading this video! It is awesome. I am mid changing the lower manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets on my mom's 09 wrangler and helped me with a couple points specifically draining the coolant - was not sure if necessary or not. Also learned about the rtv. Thanks again. Very in depth.
Thanks! Glad it helped
Ive been a Auto Tech 25+ years, I have got to say the detail that went into your video was superb! Great work on listing all details. I subbed and hope to see more great vids like these from you. Just another note for anyone that has bad corrosion around that water ports, permatex makes a gasket maker called permatex #1 and its very good to fill in those pits caused by corrosion and make a good mating surface again.
Thanks for the feedback, and the Permatex advice!
@@austin.gresham No problem at all. Im getting ready to do this job myself soon as the weather permits. Thanks again for the video.
Lmao "don't judge me for the angry eyes grill" funny as hell
yeah, I hate that thing... but it's my son's rig and I believe Jeeps should be what you want them to be. Even if your dad wants to burn it with 🔥
Wow! The detail and info u gave was priceless. A mobile mechanic was trying to charge me 1800 for this. Thank u very much! I have the top half off and i just need a fuel disconnect tool for the fuel line. I have a watched three videos of the same process but yours is the most in depth! Bravo. Ur son is a lucky young man. I hope he is taking notes when u work on his and other vehicles. Brilliance!
Thank you so much for the great feedback! I am so glad it helped.
Excellent content, and very good explanations of the processes to get to the task at hand. I have a 2010 JK unlimited sport. I think this is good to know for future work on my vehicle. Thank you!. Did you have sand in the block? I still have a bit ,but I flushed the whole system twice already, and it is getting better.
I did not have sand, but definitely sediment from the bars leak. Thanks for the comment!
Good video. I appreciate the time and effort in explaining the steps. I'm facing this repair on my 08 JK with 135k. I noticed coolant under the intake. Already have done the valve covers x2 and the oil pan gasket. I'm betting mine is leaking oil from the back of the lower intake gasket too.
Thanks for the feedback! As to your coolant leak, you may also want to check the thermostat housing (where the big hose from the radiator connects to the lower manifold). I've had leaks there and the coolant "pools" in that spot right below the lower manifold gasket and the engine block. Then the heat burns it off and you're left with a pink-ish crust from the evaporated coolant. It may look like it's the gasket, but it may not be. Thermostat housing is MUCH easier that the lower manifold (and cheaper!)... also, could be the coolant temp sensor: check the threads around there as well for that same pink color. Good luck!
@@austin.gresham Good advice! I do have oil build up at the ends of the valleys so I am fairly certain the intake gasket is leaking.
@@AlanWoodardwoodisgood Sounds like it you may be right. Good luck with the repair!
@Alan Woodard. did changing the gasket fix your coolant leak?
@@writtenpieceopaper1 Yes it did, still holding strong.
"Dont judge me on the angry grill, its my son's jeep" that made me laugh. Great video Austin, thank you for the help.
Thank you for posting this Mr. Gresham.
This along the fuel injector video saved my 08 JK X. Your instructions and recording was so clear it helped me repair this myself and I'm a newbie at best.
My Jeep had been leaking coolant and oil from this gasket for 4-5 years (I just kept topping it off every other week). The oil was leaking from the RTV failure points. I'm not too sure where the coolant was exactly leaking from, but it was pooling on both sides of the engine valley, more so on the driver side. I didn't find coolant residue besides inside the coolant jackets themselves. I'm leak free from here as of 100 miles thanks to you.
As for the fuel injection side of things, the O-rings on my injectors were flat on one side and completely stiff. The injectors themselves had corrosion sediment inside. The spray pattern became much better after cleaning them.
I do warn others that if you're a zealous cleaner like me, I recommend 4 things, especially if your gasket covers also leaked for an extended period:
1. MAP sensor.*** Inspect it and be ready to replace it, especially if your rough idle comes back worse after completing this. If it's full of carbon/oil deposits, clean it with MAF fluid. Do NOT use a cotton swab on the piezoelectric sensing part like me. You'll destroy it. Just use the swab for the channel/tunnel. If your MAP sensor is broken, with key on engine off it will read less than 26 inHg, same as your BARO, and will remain at that reading evening when revving up (mine read 24 inHg). If your MAP sensor is good, at idle it will drop to about 10 inHg. Volts should read between 0.3 to 4.6, increasing the closer you're at wide open throttle. I didn't have back probes available, so I decided to test resistance anyway. The broken MAP read OL/1 with my Harbor Freight multimeter even at 2,000k resistance (max setting), measuring from either side of the middle prong. The new MAP read 0.19 ohms with the left and middle prongs. The right and middle prongs read 0.06 ohms. For these readings, I held the sensor tube/nipple facing up but away from me while the 3 prongs faced me. The multimeter was set to 20k ohms reading. Make sure the leads/alligator clips don't touch each other and are securely placed on them. I read somewhere that MAP sensors shouldn't be measured for resistance because they're piezoelectric but I was just curious to take readings.
2. Shop vacuum with extensions.*** If your wire loom is as brittle as mine is, even if you cover everything up with painters tape/lint free towels, little parts will fall in. If you scrub off carbon deposits with a wire brush and you don't bother to make sure the valves are covered, things will fall in. Have a thin shop vacuum with extensions ready. Taping hoses to the end of the vacuum shop can only do so much. Go in gently so as to not shave off plastic from the extension wands into the cylinders.
3. Wire tape/loom.*** You're already here. Might as well restore the loom with wire tape/loom. Clean the wires with alcohol. Let them dry. Take your time. Use zip ties to keep the branches together if you do take the harness apart all the way.
4. Oven cleaner and brake cleaner.*** I had so much oil, coolant, and dirt baked into so many of my components I got impatient. Though the oven cleaner took off the gunk off the lower intake, it also etched the aluminum. Don't use the oven cleaner on any plastic or engine block components as they can crack/permanently stain them.
I used brake cleaner to restore the upper intake/plenum. Though it's plastic, I was careful to have running water immediately with me. It still managed to warp the "3.8 L" sticker, but I feel so much better about it being clean. The plenum will take the longest to clean. I found soaking it in degreaser/vinegar to help.
If I had to do this again, instead of letting the oven cleaner soak for 5-10 minutes like the directions asked for, I'd do several separate applications until the gunk came off. Then I'd rinse with vinegar to stop the chemical reaction from burning the aluminum. Water has mineral deposits, so I found myself doing one more pass with brake cleaner. I would also want access to hot running water and Dawn dish soap. The cold Dawn dish soap took out most of the gunk from the lower intake. The upper intake was just harder to clean because of the limited space and creases.
This video made the process very fun. Thank you again.
Fantastic! Thanks for posting all these details as well
FYI: You are referring to the socket size for the bolts -- 12mm or 13mm socket size are usually M8 (8mm) bolts and 10mm socket size is usually M6 (6mm) bolts. A 10mm bolt will usually have a 14mm or 15mm socket size. Other than that, this is a nice video.
You are 100% correct. I am referring to the socket size so people don't have to guess which socket/wrench will work. I do say "bolt" which is technically not correct - the bolt size, as you pointed out, is usually designated as "M10," "M8", etc - not the same as the socket/head.
Thank you for the video. This made a somewhat complex job much easier.
About to attempt this very soon. Great video, thank you!
Where did u get the fuel line disconnect tool ?
Hmmm... good question. I've had them so long I can't remember, but I think one of the big-box stores like Autozone or Advance Auto. The brand is Performance Tool: W83148.
Another great video...waiting for the day you do the head gaskets.
Appreciate the kudos. I am not looking forward to head gaskets, but when it comes time for my next one, I'll definitely post!
Can coolant also get into the oil from the lower intake gasket failing? My last oil got 'dirty' faster than usual? I didnt have it tested, but will next time if it can.
Absolutely it can. If the lower manifold gasket leaks, it can leak coolant directly into the engine, all the way to the pan. If it's bad, the oil in the pan will look like chocolate milk - that's a sure sign of coolant in the oil. It could also be the head gasket.
Also, a simple way to check the head gasket is to remove the radiator cap and let the engine warm up to where the thermostat opens (roughly 200 degrees). When the T-stat opens, if you see bubbles coming up into the radiator where you removed the cap, that means exhaust gas is getting into the coolant - most likely from the head gasket.
You can also rent a pressure tester from a local auto supply store which will tell you if there is a leak in the coolant system - just not where the leak is.
Ughh. I hate doing this job. How long does it take you?
When filming? About 3 hours 😂... When I just "get after it" about an hour, maybe a little less.
@@austin.gresham Wow. Impressive. 1 hr is quick.
@@512TXSDIY To be fair, I don't do it exactly like in the video. The video is the "proper" order according to the factory service manual. For one, I start the coolant drain at the beginning which saves time waiting while I remove the upper manifold and all the parts. You'll notice in the first 4 min of this video I also don't remove the throttle body from the upper manifold - I just take it all off as one piece. In the other video I remove it (per the FSM). I also cheat a bit on the EGR tube although it gets in the way when I do it that way (but saves time). Since this video was made for all skill levels, I kept it to "by the book" :)
@@austin.gresham Yeah… I would rather not share how long it took me the first time. I did this job 2 wranglers ago and about to do it again tomorrow on my new wrangler. Not looking forward to it mainly because it’s so tall.
I have a leaking oil, and coolant problem, guessing this is the same issue you had. can you tell me where I can buy the proper bolts, as snapping them in the engine is terrifying.. Great video!
The MOPAR part for these is 6102001. They are M6x12mm bolts you could source elsewhere, if needed (and likely cheaper)
Great video thank you sir 🍺👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
When scraping the gunk from under the gasket (25:30), how did you keep all the nasty stuff from falling into the engine? Should i lay down a towel or something to catch all the gunk that is being scraped off? Thanks!
Yes! Sorry I didn't detail the cleaning. Definitely put something down because all of that goes right into the valvetrain.
I have 435k miles on my JK. I take bolts off low mileage minivans and use them. Next rebuild plan on using metal valve covers off 2001 minivan. PCV valve hose will have to be modified on valve cover. My plastic valve covers are warped but are working. I also bought a low mileage air intake manifold. The manifold is showing its age.
435k miles is awesome! Looks like you're doing all you can to keep her running. The manifold is easily cracked, I actually put my finger through the top of one (resting my weight on it trying to get a bolt out near the firewall). Luckily it was superficial and didn't poke a hole into the actual intake chamber. Unless you plan on another 400k miles, I would just use the same style plastic valve covers and spare the time/effort of modifying the PCV valve. But if you have time to experiment, sounds like a fun project!
@ about 18:30 ... that jeep needs to drink more water. At least, that's what the doctor tells me anyway.
LOL! Reminds me of the bathroom scene in Role Models.
Good video. I need to replace head gaskets on my JK in a couple of weeks.
Head gaskets will be fun. This will get you some of the way there. Good luck with your project!
Could the bolt holes lineup without it sitting flush? I just did this and have a vacuum leak now
If you are talking about the bolt holes for the lower manifold and not another part, no I don't think that's possible. I think it's more likely that it's above that in the upper manifold/gasket, brake booster hose, MAP sensor, PCV hose, EVAP connection, EGR tube, etc.
That gasket looks like it just hardly seals up properly. Doesn't seem like a great system.
The part at the bottom of the V, where the sealant goes, is not the best design in my opinion. That's why I like the kits that use the 10mm bolts in the V - some others just rely on the pressure from the weight of the manifold to provide a good seal and I've replaced a few of those in short order. The mating surface between the cylinder heads and the manifold are pretty good, though. I've only seen a few of those fail
I'm not very knowledgeable about this engine, but how is oil getting into the intake manifold? Thanks for uploading your helpful videos!
The lower gasket is the only thing separating the crankcase from the manifold and the sides of the cylinder heads. When it leaks, oil can get in a lot of places you wouldn't expect, but mostly down the front and back of the block.
Could the water leak into the combustion chamber causing the radiator to get air into it
Yes, it happens all the time in engines. But to be clear that wouldn't come from the leaking intake manifold, that would be the result of a head gasket leak. Think of it this way: the coolant is WAY above boiling when the engine is working - let's just call it 200 deg. The pressure in the coolant lines means water is trying to get OUT of of any leak it can. The pressure in the manifold area is not that high in comparison, so more than likely the coolant will leak into the crankcase because the pressure is higher (coolant pressure > crankcase pressure). Now, if it's a head gasket - that's the combustion chamber. The pressure there is WAY higher than the coolant lines, so usually air from there (from the piston compression) forces air IN TO the coolant.
Hope that helps
Great video! It helped me a lot with this project. You mentioned you would have another video on how you cleaned the lower intake manifold, but I don't see one on your list of videos. Did you never upload it?
Sorry, I did not make one. I lost the footage 🤬. Basically, I used a plastic scraper (or a razor blade VERY carefully) and brake cleaner.
Got I hate working on mopars
Thanks for this, I just did this and your video was of great help. Thanks for going in detail.
Glad it helped!
Great video Austin. Really appreciate all of the time you took and detail provided. Did you replace the EGR gasket and would you mind posting the part #? Thanks!
Thanks, Chris! I did not replace it in this video but I did when I replaced the fuel injectors (other video). The gaskets I used for both the upper and lower EGR were NAPA. The part number for the gasket that goes into the upper intake manifold was #70696 and the gasket that goes between the EGR valve and the EGR tube (under the wheel well) was #70721. Both have worked great. Good Luck!
Thanks for the video, I did this the other day? Did you put any extra gasket material rtv or anything like that between the intake and the gasket? On my oem gasket, it looks like there was some there.
Thanks! No, you don't want anything in between except the RTV in the corners. If there was something on yours either the previous mechanic did it wrong (which might be why it leaked) or what you see is crusted oil and/or coolant. The cylinder head and manifold surfaces should be clean and smooth.
Hello would you recommend to replace the gaskets at the same time for the upper intake? Thanks and very helpful video
I would say if you're going through the trouble of tearing down the intake, you may as well replace all the gaskets! Upper intake adds maybe 5 minutes to the entire job.
Excellent video. Master Auto Mechanic 1988- Present.
Thanks!
Thanks man, your a life saver. Guys please tape the intake holes, don’t loose a bolt down those things!
Thanks! Yes, do tape those intake holes!!
Great video!
The one im doing has rtv on both ends as well, around the coolant passages.
Its leaking coolant.
You reckon this is why? Its definitely factory. But this isnt the type of gasket that should have rtv on it. Was always told if ypu have a gasket, adding rtv is just doubling the amount of places that can leak (1 spot between each layer of )
You definitely should only have RTV in those end spots where the block meets the cylinder heads. If you're seeing RTV anywhere else, I can't imagine that was factory. It could also be sludge build up from oil/coolant leaking and maybe not RTV, but that's just a guess on my part. Regardless, scrape it all off and get a good surface for that new gasket.
@@austin.gresham lol just finished the job, fired it up, and its releaking, so bad . Took a few pictures, the intakes got pitting around the passenger side.
Cant get these i takes anywhere, id imagine this is why there was silicone on it, to hide this. I bet the dealer the customer bought it from did it, they bought it used about 7 years ago, said theyve always smelled coolant but no ones been able to find the leak
Gonna see if the local machine shop can plane this thing down a few thousands or something. Friggin sucks having to do it again
@@marioncobretti7870 Sorry to hear that, it really sucks when people half-@ss a job and hand the problem onto the next owner/sucker who gets to deal with the aftermath.
@@austin.gresham ended up using high temp rtv to fix it. Its not leaking now, told the lady if it happens again ill redo it. Machine shop wanted way too much lol
I dunno why no one makes a better gasket or a different aftermarket intake. Youd think seeing as every wrangler ever made sells there would be a market for a known failing part.
Wish there was just a gasket like gm uses, thicker with rubber/eurythane around the coolant passages., but i guess in todays world cant expect too much.
Ill take it as a win anyways. Couple of The bolts holding it down to the heads barely came out, if they would of broke i dunno what i woulda done, so I cant complain too much
Thanks for the video I owe you a beer.
Next time I'm in TN I'll take you up on it! Glad it helped you
Just snapped a bolt trying to get 105 inch pounds on the upper manifold. Brand new torque wrench. So be very careful when you do this, lucky me my engine is out so I can work around it to make the repair easier
Been there... I think technically Jeep recommends that the bolts be discarded and new ones used. I have extras just in case, but getting the broken ones out is no fun.
i’ve seen a lot of people have that issue from not blowing the threads out with compressed air after cleaning the surfaces. debris and dirt doesn’t compress well in the threads and boom, snapped bolt
I hust had this issue lol water in the hole 😂@@dogpettervevo2682
😂 yep the rest are hand tight. Waiting on new bolts.
Where the second video
This one is the second video. The first one is linked in the description.
Great job!
Thanks!
thank you
You are welcome!
Really nice video and detailed.
Thanks!
need this done 🥲
I have a 2007 jk. Multi cylinder misfire. Replaced just about everything. Any ideas?
Well... when you say everything, what have you replaced? Is it one cylinder or multiple? Specific code?
@@austin.gresham 6 fuel injectors, 3 coil packs, 2set of plugs, ECU, 2sets of wires cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor EGR valve all 4 02 sensors, plenum seals, checked fuel pressure 58 pounds and holds steady. Air temp sensor. Looked inside cats when I pulled 02 sensors, looks good. Didn’t find any vacuum leaks. Next for me, lower intake seal. Any ideas would help.
That’s all in the last week. Codes out multiple cylinder misfire. Definitely missing. No power, shakes like shit!
Cylinder pressures 195 to 205 across. Not losing any coolant.
It’s stared out as a slight miss, would stop for a while, run great for a while. Progressively got worse.