Great video! Super helpful. I have 2 3.8L jeeps I’m going down to the timing chain and you convinced me to get the oil pump swapped out while I’m in there…
@@motorcarnut when I started the jeep back up we got a low oil pressure light for a few minutes. Is that from the pump cycling oil through the engine until it reaches pressure? Checked the oil level and everything is good. Light went off and we seem to be alright…
Love the video, simple and to the point. Just an FYI, Melling now does make an oversize pump for those with more scoring. The pump is .05" thicker and requires machining of the mating surface on the inside of the front cover. Same part number with OS suffix.
@@motorcarnut Mos def, While i'm there taking all this down, im planning on changing all components I can think of, like the waterpump. Hey quick question while we're at it, I know there is a rubber seal that goes around and connect to the upper pan. At that specific junction with the upper pan, I need to put some sealant. Is there another place inside the cover where i need to add some sealant? around bolts? also which sealant would you recommend for the oil pressure spring release cap?
Are you referring to the front timing cover? It is installed with a gasket and manufacture saids no sealant on the gasket that mates the timing cover to the block. On the bottom where the oil pan goes, yes you put some on the seams. I use a small film of sealant on the pressure relief plug before tapping it into place. I use Permatex Black Gasket Maker on most of my engine builds were it calls for this type of sealant. Hope that helps.
@@motorcarnut Yeah thanks a lot! there are very few video on front timing cover for the 3.8L. So I watched a few and some other covers requires more than just a gasket, they need some sealant around bolts (like on differential cover for example). But yeah you helped, thanks a lot!
@@motorcarnut just what I needed to know! Bought the new one with gaskets and hope the light doesn’t come on anymore and the jeep is good to go. Thanks for the comment. Needed to know the evidence. Also unfortunately my 2011 Jeep Wrangler does not come with an analog or digital gauge for oil pressure or battery voltage. Thinking of adding gauges now. If you got any further ideas I’m all ears.
This was very helpful, thank you for posting. I'm guessing its pretty self explanatory once I have the cover off, how to go about lining the oil pump gears back up upon re-assembly?
Yes, when your ready to put the timing cover back on there is a flat surface on the crankshaft that lines up with the flat surface of the oil pump center gear and make sure the cover is fully seated to the block without any binding and you’re good to go!
@@motorcarnut I was told look that piston 6 has a problem. I was told that the oil pump was not working properly. Is this normal. That I made the engine complete. And that surprises me. Can you give me an opinion please
Well, without the vehicle in front of me it's hard to know, If the engine is knocking or oil starved It is always good practice to replace or rebuild the oil pump with an engine rebuild especially if the reason the the rebuild was oil starvation related. Maybe the mechanic is right if he heard the engine knocking and checked for oil pressure and came to that conclusion.
I have a manual that says that the valve goes in the hole before the spring. I have seen other manuals online that says that the spring goes first then the valve. If im not mistaken mine was assembled like you show in this clip and thats how i did i. Do you know if they changed this over the years or are just some manuals wrong?
The manual is wrong or misprint. If you understand how it works and the simple design of the oil flow and holes you’ll see the spring first then the valve last the plug.
Minor grooves that barely catch your finger nail are fine, you can use some 1000 grit sand paper to smooth them out. Deep grooves from let say a failed bearing material that got caught in the pump should, then the front cover should be replaced.
I'm changing my timing chain and might as well replace the oil pump gears. My question is it necessary to replace the valve look like a pain without the special hammer
That valve controls oil pressure. If you didn't have an oil pressure problem before and there are no metal filings in the oil, you can just try to clean the ports and you should be fine. Worst case scenario, you can access that port later on from the bottom with oil pan removed.
I made a M14x1,5 thread on the inside of the plug. Then i took a M14 wheel bolt and a nut scewed all the way up on it. A short bit of pipe approximately 25 mm or 1" dia on the wheel bolt before i screwed it in the plug. Then it was just to turn the bolt down. This pushed the pipe against the case and the bolt took the plug up as it traveled from the case. HArd to explain without showing but it worked like a charm...
How did you prime the engine? I have tried to turn the engine without plugs and then i pushed almost 6 quarts through the hole where the pressure sensor goes but i havent succeeded yet.
You prime the pump, not the engine. When you rebuild the oil pump just put assembly lube mixed with some engine oil on the pump gears front and back and you're good to go
@@motorcarnut Ok i think my problem is lifter noise. The engine is completely rebuild and the lifters are new, i didnt soak them before i put them in. Maybe i should have… One more thing, i use 10w40 run in oil, maybe its a little thick…
@@motorcarnut I am having an issue where the relief valve is sticking closed causing my oil pressure to skyrocket which in turn is blowing out the oil seal on filter. I'm installing as per melling instructions, spring, valve cap. Which is exactly opposite of how repair manuals show btw. Factory install is valve, spring then cap. Any idea what I could be doing wrong or what the issue may be?
It's the spring, valve then cap.Make sure the oil filter is out and use compressed air to make sure all the ports are clean and there is no blockage anywhere. The valve should slide in the bore nice and smooth and when you install the cap make sure the top edge of the cap it just at the bevel just below the flush surface and not too deep in the bore because if it is it will put more pressure on the spring and falsley raise the oil pressure, so that step is very important.
@@motorcarnut thank you. This will be the 3rd time doing it that way. I believe there is some debris still trapped from the original one. I will try the compressed air to see if there's anything else in there. Thanks much
Great video! Super helpful. I have 2 3.8L jeeps I’m going down to the timing chain and you convinced me to get the oil pump swapped out while I’m in there…
Thank you! Yes good choice, won’t have to worry about it anymore
@@motorcarnut when I started the jeep back up we got a low oil pressure light for a few minutes. Is that from the pump cycling oil through the engine until it reaches pressure? Checked the oil level and everything is good. Light went off and we seem to be alright…
@nickolisgreenwood8694 if it was only one time you should be fine. Not every time you start it though.
Love the video, simple and to the point. Just an FYI, Melling now does make an oversize pump for those with more scoring. The pump is .05" thicker and requires machining of the mating surface on the inside of the front cover. Same part number with OS suffix.
Thank you, good extra info , I appreciate that!
Good video bud, super helpful and well explained, I have to replace mine, after I cracked the cover itself, with the upper pan. Fun time ahead!
Thank you for the comment. Take your time and do it right the first time so hopefully you never have to do it again!!
@@motorcarnut Mos def, While i'm there taking all this down, im planning on changing all components I can think of, like the waterpump. Hey quick question while we're at it, I know there is a rubber seal that goes around and connect to the upper pan. At that specific junction with the upper pan, I need to put some sealant. Is there another place inside the cover where i need to add some sealant? around bolts? also which sealant would you recommend for the oil pressure spring release cap?
Are you referring to the front timing cover? It is installed with a gasket and manufacture saids no sealant on the gasket that mates the timing cover to the block. On the bottom where the oil pan goes, yes you put some on the seams. I use a small film of sealant on the pressure relief plug before tapping it into place. I use Permatex Black Gasket Maker on most of my engine builds were it calls for this type of sealant. Hope that helps.
@@motorcarnut Yeah thanks a lot! there are very few video on front timing cover for the 3.8L. So I watched a few and some other covers requires more than just a gasket, they need some sealant around bolts (like on differential cover for example). But yeah you helped, thanks a lot!
Some do but not these applications 2007 to 2011 3.8.
Thanks great video I have a 07 town and country and it’s basically the same thing 👍
Great, glad it helped!
Great video and enjoyed your explanation. Just found out mine was bad. Ordered a new one from JEGS because Oreillys was too much!
Glad it helped! Good luck and thanks for the comment
@@motorcarnut found pressure at 10 to 20.
Way too low
@@motorcarnut just what I needed to know! Bought the new one with gaskets and hope the light doesn’t come on anymore and the jeep is good to go. Thanks for the comment. Needed to know the evidence. Also unfortunately my 2011 Jeep Wrangler does not come with an analog or digital gauge for oil pressure or battery voltage. Thinking of adding gauges now. If you got any further ideas I’m all ears.
Thanks for all the great info
Our pleasure!
This was very helpful, thank you for posting. I'm guessing its pretty self explanatory once I have the cover off, how to go about lining the oil pump gears back up upon re-assembly?
Yes, when your ready to put the timing cover back on there is a flat surface on the crankshaft that lines up with the flat surface of the oil pump center gear and make sure the cover is fully seated to the block without any binding and you’re good to go!
Very helpful video. Thanks for sharing. How did you prime this 3.8 liter after you replaced the pump?
Thank you! I just saturated the oil pump gears with sticky engine lube and engine oil and your good to go.
how are you.I have a 3.8 jeep. I did the engine and it still does not work well, do I have to do the oil pump?
Hi, What do you mean still doesn't work well? Low oil pressure?
@@motorcarnut I was told look that piston 6 has a problem. I was told that the oil pump was not working properly. Is this normal. That I made the engine complete. And that surprises me. Can you give me an opinion please
Well, without the vehicle in front of me it's hard to know, If the engine is knocking or oil starved It is always good practice to replace or rebuild the oil pump with an engine rebuild especially if the reason the the rebuild was oil starvation related. Maybe the mechanic is right if he heard the engine knocking and checked for oil pressure and came to that conclusion.
@@motorcarnut Thank you very much.
I have a manual that says that the valve goes in the hole before the spring. I have seen other manuals online that says that the spring goes first then the valve. If im not mistaken mine was assembled like you show in this clip and thats how i did i. Do you know if they changed this over the years or are just some manuals wrong?
The manual is wrong or misprint. If you understand how it works and the simple design of the oil flow and holes you’ll see the spring first then the valve last the plug.
What are your thoughts on the grooves in the front cover where the pump gear sits?
Minor grooves that barely catch your finger nail are fine, you can use some 1000 grit sand paper to smooth them out. Deep grooves from let say a failed bearing material that got caught in the pump should, then the front cover should be replaced.
Very good video.
Thank you very much!
I’m replacing my 3.8L engine with a crate engine. How do I know if my flex plate is in the right clock position?
When you install the flex plate the bolt holes may be slightly off so you keep turning it until they all line up.
I'm changing my timing chain and might as well replace the oil pump gears. My question is it necessary to replace the valve look like a pain without the special hammer
That valve controls oil pressure. If you didn't have an oil pressure problem before and there are no metal filings in the oil, you can just try to clean the ports and you should be fine. Worst case scenario, you can access that port later on from the bottom with oil pan removed.
I made a M14x1,5 thread on the inside of the plug. Then i took a M14 wheel bolt and a nut scewed all the way up on it. A short bit of pipe approximately 25 mm or 1" dia on the wheel bolt before i screwed it in the plug. Then it was just to turn the bolt down. This pushed the pipe against the case and the bolt took the plug up as it traveled from the case. HArd to explain without showing but it worked like a charm...
How did you prime the engine? I have tried to turn the engine without plugs and then i pushed almost 6 quarts through the hole where the pressure sensor goes but i havent succeeded yet.
You prime the pump, not the engine. When you rebuild the oil pump just put assembly lube mixed with some engine oil on the pump gears front and back and you're good to go
@@motorcarnut
Ok i think my problem is lifter noise. The engine is completely rebuild and the lifters are new, i didnt soak them before i put them in. Maybe i should have… One more thing, i use 10w40 run in oil, maybe its a little thick…
Is this the same as a 2005 dodge grand caravan 3.8l engine
Yes
Great video
Thank you!
What’s the proper procedure for priming the oil pump before starting the motor ?
If you’re rebuilding it now just use assembly lube on the housing and both sides of the gears.
@@motorcarnut got it! Called my professional keep builder! Thanks you
No problem
Disassembly video prior to this one?
No, didn’t make one, sorry
I'm working on this same engine and having issues with the pressure relief valve functioning properly. Could I contact you somehow to talk live?
@motorcarnut
Sorry I’m away now but maybe can help here?
@@motorcarnut I am having an issue where the relief valve is sticking closed causing my oil pressure to skyrocket which in turn is blowing out the oil seal on filter. I'm installing as per melling instructions, spring, valve cap. Which is exactly opposite of how repair manuals show btw. Factory install is valve, spring then cap. Any idea what I could be doing wrong or what the issue may be?
It's the spring, valve then cap.Make sure the oil filter is out and use compressed air to make sure all the ports are clean and there is no blockage anywhere. The valve should slide in the bore nice and smooth and when you install the cap make sure the top edge of the cap it just at the bevel just below the flush surface and not too deep in the bore because if it is it will put more pressure on the spring and falsley raise the oil pressure, so that step is very important.
@@motorcarnut thank you. This will be the 3rd time doing it that way. I believe there is some debris still trapped from the original one. I will try the compressed air to see if there's anything else in there. Thanks much
The 3.8 is junk
Mine never gives me problems