Відео

I wasn't sure if you were still questioning which way the seal goes or if you got your answer, but just in case you are still wondering the open side where you can see the spring goes toward the crankcase and the solid side that looks just like a rubber face goes toward the front of the Jeep. Hope that helps!

@@austin.gresham thank you!!!

Usually that's where I start, especially if it's only reporting one bank/sensor. In this case, the prior owner used cheap injectors trying to solve another problem and just made it worse.

@@jennycrew4034 That's great to hear!

@@Seth-i5g Thanks!

Thanks! Glad it was helpful - good luck on the repair!

The part you're looking for is 68145835AE (or the older 68145835AA/AB/AC). There are a couple on Ebay and Ali, but they are expensive. Good luck

Thanks for the tips!

That's a great idea on the tie downs! Thanks for sharing

@@gusorviston1 What was missing? "Useless" isn't really a fair comment.

@@Toots807 I hope it helped!

Head gaskets will be fun. This will get you some of the way there. Good luck with your project!

You are 100% correct. I am referring to the socket size so people don't have to guess which socket/wrench will work. I do say "bolt" which is technically not correct - the bolt size, as you pointed out, is usually designated as "M10," "M8", etc - not the same as the socket/head.

Thank you so much for the great feedback! I am so glad it helped.

Thanks!

I have had no luck with any injectors except the OEM MOPAR ones. If you used anything else, I'd swap them out.

JScan is a standalone app for iOS and Android. If you do a search for it you'll get a lot of hits on how to use it.

No, the free version only allows some basic stuff, like reading the DTC codes. You'll need the licensed version to perform the full procedure.

They came with the new steering gear

Wow! I live in Ohio - definitely hear you on the road salt. Thankfully I only broke one.

Glad you found a solution!

I suppose you could come from the top, but to me that seems like more effort than dropping the tank. I am not near mine right now to double-check, but there may be other frame components (cross members, maybe) in the way as well. Before you look at replacing the assembly, have you checked to make sure the level sensor is working properly - checking voltage, resistance, etc - before pinning the sensor as the culprit?

@austin.gresham I'll take a closer look before I do any cutting. I've seen it done on a jeep TJ and thought I'd ask since you've been under yours. First, it was reading 3/4 tank at a full level, then would only go to 1/4 full. Now it stays on E. Sometimes, it jumps up to 1/4 again. Thanks.

Rich fuel codes on both banks. I did some pressure testing and thought it was the fuel pump leaking. After changing the pump, the system still lost pressure (injectors were leaking)

Good luck! Would love to hear your results when it's done.

@@austin.gresham - It didn't take long for an update. My mechanic called the Jeep dealership just moments before we placed the order to double check that the controller module is included in the quoted part, the salesperson confirmed, we asked for the part # and searched online, it was clearly mentioned that this is just the pump and pipes, and does not include the module. We called again, sales transferred us to a technical person who confirmed the module is indeed not included and they don't have it in the country (Australia). Now back to square 0. fishing for the module online.

@@ahmadbazzari9948 Sorry to hear that...

@@ahmadbazzari9948 did you find a module i am also waiting for one has been 6 months now

Glad it helped! Good luck

The MOPAR part for these is 6102001. They are M6x12mm bolts you could source elsewhere, if needed (and likely cheaper)

That's an interesting one. First, I would not worry that you did any damage by not opening the fluid reservoir when compressing the pads. I've done that a number of times and never damaged anything - removing the cap just makes the compression a little easier in my experience. If you think ABS is engaging, but you're not seeing any lights illuminate, then I don't think it's an ABS problem. If the ABS module was bad, you'd be seeing at least some code that tells you there's an error. I have not seen one just "stop" recognizing errors and give up. So, I guess that's the good news. Have you checked the rear pads? With the ABS, BLD rear diff, and traction control the rear brakes on these get worked a lot harder than older Jeeps. You may have an issue in the rear, including a bad E-brake shoe. I am about to post a video about these, actually, which caused pretty bad noise in a 2008 Wrangler. Other than that, you may have a driveline issue/noise, like shavings in the differential. Hope that helps!

Did you ever figure out your problem with the brakes? I’m experiencing the same thing.

@@Jo-manji , I don't have the JK anymore , traded it in for a new Tundra , but I remember instead of taking it in I replaced both front wheel hub assemblies and I may have put new calipers on too , but the wheel hub assembly had a speed sensor w/ it (got everything from Rock Auto) , installed all the new parts and everything went away and brakes stopped perfectly. I took a guess on the front end brakes being the problem and it all went well . Sometimes you can just put new sensors on but w/ the winters and salt where I live it's a pain in the ass taking those sensors out and most times you end up breaking the sensor that goes into the hub assembly . Plus I got new wheel hubs w/ the sensors. The sensors were attached to the hub assemblies when I received them . Fairly easy install , just take pics of how speed sensor wiring is routed in your Jeep . Good luck

@@HeavyChevyMega thanks for the advice. Will do.

You definitely should only have RTV in those end spots where the block meets the cylinder heads. If you're seeing RTV anywhere else, I can't imagine that was factory. It could also be sludge build up from oil/coolant leaking and maybe not RTV, but that's just a guess on my part. Regardless, scrape it all off and get a good surface for that new gasket.

@@austin.gresham lol just finished the job, fired it up, and its releaking, so bad . Took a few pictures, the intakes got pitting around the passenger side. Cant get these i takes anywhere, id imagine this is why there was silicone on it, to hide this. I bet the dealer the customer bought it from did it, they bought it used about 7 years ago, said theyve always smelled coolant but no ones been able to find the leak Gonna see if the local machine shop can plane this thing down a few thousands or something. Friggin sucks having to do it again

@@marioncobretti7870 Sorry to hear that, it really sucks when people half-@ss a job and hand the problem onto the next owner/sucker who gets to deal with the aftermath.

@@austin.gresham ended up using high temp rtv to fix it. Its not leaking now, told the lady if it happens again ill redo it. Machine shop wanted way too much lol I dunno why no one makes a better gasket or a different aftermarket intake. Youd think seeing as every wrangler ever made sells there would be a market for a known failing part. Wish there was just a gasket like gm uses, thicker with rubber/eurythane around the coolant passages., but i guess in todays world cant expect too much. Ill take it as a win anyways. Couple of The bolts holding it down to the heads barely came out, if they would of broke i dunno what i woulda done, so I cant complain too much

If you are talking about the bolt holes for the lower manifold and not another part, no I don't think that's possible. I think it's more likely that it's above that in the upper manifold/gasket, brake booster hose, MAP sensor, PCV hose, EVAP connection, EGR tube, etc.

Awesome, congrats!!

If you are standing in front of the Jeep facing the engine, 1 is the closest on the left. Then 3, then 5. The right side is 2, 4, 6

Yes! Sorry I didn't detail the cleaning. Definitely put something down because all of that goes right into the valvetrain.

It's part of the EVAP system which basically burns extraneous gas fumes instead of venting them to the atmosphere.

Bummer.... that's expensive.

Thanks!

5/16"

Yes, for JSCAN. If you use AlphaOBD you don't need a separate license for each VIN, but you do pay for it once.

If I have solid abs light and traction light on, do you think the initialisation was not done properly? Your input would be greatly appreciated 😊

You may have a faulty sensor, the wiring could bad, or you could have build up on the sensor from brake dust. The rear wheel hubs have the tone wheel and sensor pretty exposed as compared to the front and sometimes they get caked up with metal shavings. What is the actual code? I can also give you some electrical tests to try.

Could be the initialization, but it's more than likely being caused by the wheel speed sensor you mentioned. Another thing that can cause it is the steering wheel being out of alignment and the SAS sending bad information to the ABS controller.

Well... when you say everything, what have you replaced? Is it one cylinder or multiple? Specific code?

@@austin.gresham 6 fuel injectors, 3 coil packs, 2set of plugs, ECU, 2sets of wires cam shaft sensor, crank shaft sensor EGR valve all 4 02 sensors, plenum seals, checked fuel pressure 58 pounds and holds steady. Air temp sensor. Looked inside cats when I pulled 02 sensors, looks good. Didn’t find any vacuum leaks. Next for me, lower intake seal. Any ideas would help.

That’s all in the last week. Codes out multiple cylinder misfire. Definitely missing. No power, shakes like shit!

Cylinder pressures 195 to 205 across. Not losing any coolant.

It’s stared out as a slight miss, would stop for a while, run great for a while. Progressively got worse.

Yes! I use the OBDLink MX+. You can get it on Amazon

No, the injectors do not have serviceable filters.

Thanks! I am definitely not a camera pro - I appreciate the kudos!

Yes, it happens all the time in engines. But to be clear that wouldn't come from the leaking intake manifold, that would be the result of a head gasket leak. Think of it this way: the coolant is WAY above boiling when the engine is working - let's just call it 200 deg. The pressure in the coolant lines means water is trying to get OUT of of any leak it can. The pressure in the manifold area is not that high in comparison, so more than likely the coolant will leak into the crankcase because the pressure is higher (coolant pressure > crankcase pressure). Now, if it's a head gasket - that's the combustion chamber. The pressure there is WAY higher than the coolant lines, so usually air from there (from the piston compression) forces air IN TO the coolant. Hope that helps

Any auto parts store should have them, check their website

@@austin.gresham thank you 👍🏽

Appreciate the kudos. I am not looking forward to head gaskets, but when it comes time for my next one, I'll definitely post!