Landberg Tile TV Hello thanks for replying so fast. Just to follow up, I cannot use 1/4x1/4? Just I don’t want the floor to be too high?What do you think?
you prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I somehow forgot the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
One mistake that must be avoided when using tile leveling systems such as this wedge system, is not to over tighten the wedge when pressing it into place. Doing so causes the clip to bend/flex which in turn causes the grout line to widen. It took us alot of time to realise what was causing our lines to be wider in many places. The lesson? Tighten just until you feel the wedge is fastened securely and that's it! Don't force it in any further so that the clip maintains its straight form. This will ensure consistent grout lines throughout your installation.
blueskies I found this the hard way too. Also, tightening causes the bottom flange of the spacer to “fold” like a taco as it’s pulled into the joint. This can actually push the tile up away from the mortar bed.
@@Samlol23_drrich No problem. Also another reason for not over tightening is that sometimes the clips will actually break, then you're screwed because you have already laid your tile but lost your levelling clip. Hate it when that happens. One more tip: Another cause for having random wider grout lines can be because you may be using tiles that have inconsistent edges with some edges that are tapered (not squared perfectly) and so the result will be varied grout line widths. This is also very annoying. So make sure you inspect the tiles quality before installing.I learned the hard way on one job when I had to shave of all the tile edges to square them of so that I can get a consistent 2mm grout line. Not fun at all.
Another quick tip I’ve found helpful is to completely clean out the access thinset that may squirt out around the clips. Not cleaning out the grout lines can cause a lot of trouble when breaking the clips off after installation. This is good practice anyways to ensure there is plenty of grout in between the tile but is very critical around the clips. I’ve found keeping an old toothbrush and a bucket of water next to me works best.
Brilliant video, none of the "I'm a great guy" rubbish - straight to the point, clearly explained and the glass tiles just make the whole video work. Excellent.
Great video. i learned a ton and have a ton more confidence heading over to Menards get my mortar and trowel in about 5 minutes. This was just the video I was looking for to make sure my bathroom tiles were set properly and with zero lippage. Thanks a ton !!!!
This worked great for redoing the shower/bathtub of my kid's bathroom. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfiuHoZJo3bgdVPFRxQ-iqPpfbEHl2cYt I didn't like the guide, so I took it off. I just used a fine tipped sharpie on the tile and followed that line. It does make a wet mess, and once I started looking like I wet myself I started wearing a towel and apron while cutting. The blade it came with worked great until we wore it out. It was better than the replacement one we bought. I tried looking for just their blade, but failed. Not really for larger tiles unless you stack stuff on either side to support the tiles. Anyway, would definitley buy again.
I've done a lot of things but I've never tiled and I'm about to tile my parent's bathroom floor and you literally answered every question I had and a few I didn't even know I should have with this one video. I feel confident that I can nail this job no problem. Thanks!
@@user-jl7yb9cw1w The people who built my house 20 years ago did not back butter. That is why there are air gaps when i step on the tiles years later. Very little penetration on the back of the tile.
Thanks for this from a master tilesetter that is still learning new techniques after 15 years. If you would backbutter the glass you would have even more coverage and bonding. But if you did that it might have been hard to see what's going on so I understand why you left it out.
even that was done dishonestly. He didnt apply any down pressure to the first 2 tiles to collapse the ridges. I know directional troweling is important but he fudged the experiment to get his desired result
Awesome video, I like how you used glass panels to show how well the tile will bond. What I learned from this video is that if the thinset is not applied properly then the tile leveling system is almost ineffective.
Yes! That's exactly what I was trying to demonstrate. You should check out my how to use tile leveling systems on walls video I recently posted, it's a good one! 👊
A great video about how to apply thinset. As others have said, this was all about how to apply thinset and push down on the tile to collapse the ridges and nothing about using the wedges. The only useful tip about using wedges that you did show was removing the thinset between the tiles. You did it but did not talk about it.
I already put some tiles without backbuttering, can I do the rest of my tiles backbuttering style, or my existing tiles will sit too low?? Tiles are 24x24
This is indeed so, while the tile leveling systems are NOT meant to fully compensate for uneven floors, some help on how to deal with such floors would be appreciated
Iv been cleaning carpet, tile and grout professionally for the last few years. Looking to finally start my own business in Florida installing and cleaning tile and grout. Seems pretty straight forward to me. Iv never installed a single tile yet, but this makes perfect sense to me.
In florida!??! Tile installation doesnt pay, people here are always broke. And if you do that back buttering waste of time u wont last in the business, at least in fl
@@ecom300 I been doing this for 35 years the only thing that's gone up is the size of the tile and amount of mortar and effort. Oh and the warranty to 3 years with 3 8ths ply over 5 8ths chipboard that's swelled and delamenated from rain and weather.
I have done some floor tiles with these levelers, and most anoying thing is thinset around plastic. You need completly clean plastic and remove exces thinset from tile edge, otherwise plastic get stuck in between tiles (where grout needs to be). And lightly backbutter every tile for 100% coverage.
After you Directional trowel whatever size trowel you use your supposed to move the tile 3x the distance of the notch to knock down the ridges to get your coverage. Back buttering helps only with transfer not with coverage
Incorrect troweling is a not a wrong way to use clips. Sort of like a video on the correct way to use screws, and the content covers adhesive application. Sorry for beating the dead horse.
He was trying to point out that the leveling system works better with throweling the right way so the ridges can collapse properly. At least that's what I learned from this video.
Nevermind, watched your later videos. I very much appreciate all your effort making these videos. I’ve learned a lot thanks to you. If DeWalt had a rolling saw, I’d have gone that route, but a bad back and being 52, the wheeled cart on the R4093 Ridgid is perfect for me.
Great video many thanks. What size spacing between the tiles would you recommend on floor tiles in a bathroom. The tiles I am using are 600mm x 300mm and 8mm thick. Thanks Chris
I have a question!? Why didn't you apply the same amount of pressure on the glas tile with "diagonal troweling" at 0:55 and 1:11, as you did at 3:23, 3:30, 3:36 and 3:43 with the "straight troweling".??? And as you mentioned...don´t forget to back butter the back of the tiles....
You kick the wedges SIDEWAYS and the plastic pieces break away at the bottom. A small part stays under the tiles. Don't kick in the direction of the wedge, the plastic part will break at the wrong place and that's a lot of work to fix before grouting. By the way, you can use the wedges over and over again.
With the swirl troweling, you are careful not to push on it at all, but then with the directional trowel you still gave it a good shove to bed it down. While directional troweling is indeed ideal, in many situations like corners it can be difficult, and this video over-exaggerates the difference. If you had given those first set a bit of a push they would have been bedded nearly as well, and certainly with the 85% coverage needed to be properly bonded.
It depends on the grout joint you are trying to achieve! Most of the systems out there are a standard 1/16” spacer. If you want a thicker joint you will need to use spacers in addition to the leveling system
@@bryanthomas5275 he addresses this if you were paying attention. Second he's using glass for a reason and back buttering would have taken away from the demonstration of what happens to the ridges.
You mention in the video to use a 1/2” trowel. I’m using this system on a 3x12 subway tile backsplash and a 1/2” would be way too big. Can you use the wedges with a 1/4” square notch or is that not enough thinset for these systems?
Used the wedge system you recommend and had the worst time breaking them off after leaving for 48 hours. The thin set squeezed up around the levelers (due to moving the tile on wet thin set) and locked them in place. I had to use a Dremel tool to cut out the plastic and grind the thin set down. I had 1/8" grout line, not sure it that makes a difference.
Hi .. I have removed the old floors from a bathroom, around 5 square meter. There was a celotex (50mm), sitting on a concrete slab. I repeated the same model, but I added a membering first then 50mm celotex then 12mm Hardibacker. I fixed the hardibacker with screws to the main concrete slab through the celotex. Any potential problem with that? Any advice before tiling?
The first tiles with non directional troweling you just set the tiles down and didn’t even try to push on tiles to collapse the ridges like you did on the directional trowel.
Hi, i would like ask you please.? If you need install porcelain 60cmx60cm what's the standard space between porcelain less than 2mm or more, same question to the porcelain 60cmx120cm
I’d be afraid the spin on levelers, could raise one tile up if the other tile cannot go down any further. Thus creating an air pocket. A penny for ur thoughts as I’ve never used either, but gonna attempt to tile my bathroom floor soon.
Yes you can, just place the spacers on every corner. Must of these systems come in a standard 1/16” thickness, just add your desired spacer and make sure the tiles are tight against each other, you can use a mallet for that
There are typically 3 different layouts when installing porcelain planks. Random, 50% offset and 33% offset. We prefer 33% offset with small floors and random with large floors.
Leveling System
amzn.to/2KTAolw
What size of trowel to use for 12x24 tile?
@@cpccpc1749 1/2" x 1/2" 👍
Landberg Tile TV Hello thanks for replying so fast. Just to follow up, I cannot use 1/4x1/4? Just I don’t want the floor to be too high?What do you think?
What do you mean by collapse?
you prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
One mistake that must be avoided when using tile leveling systems such as this wedge system, is not to over tighten the wedge when pressing it into place. Doing so causes the clip to bend/flex which in turn causes the grout line to widen. It took us alot of time to realise what was causing our lines to be wider in many places. The lesson? Tighten just until you feel the wedge is fastened securely and that's it! Don't force it in any further so that the clip maintains its straight form. This will ensure consistent grout lines throughout your installation.
blueskies I found this the hard way too. Also, tightening causes the bottom flange of the spacer to “fold” like a taco as it’s pulled into the joint. This can actually push the tile up away from the mortar bed.
thankyou!
Absolutely priceless advice for a newbie. Thank you very much.
@@Samlol23_drrich No problem. Also another reason for not over tightening is that sometimes the clips will actually break, then you're screwed because you have already laid your tile but lost your levelling clip. Hate it when that happens.
One more tip: Another cause for having random wider grout lines can be because you may be using tiles that have inconsistent edges with some edges that are tapered (not squared perfectly) and so the result will be varied grout line widths. This is also very annoying. So make sure you inspect the tiles quality before installing.I learned the hard way on one job when I had to shave of all the tile edges to square them of so that I can get a consistent 2mm grout line. Not fun at all.
What about for your first row, i noticed that the tiles tend to move when using spacers
Another quick tip I’ve found helpful is to completely clean out the access thinset that may squirt out around the clips. Not cleaning out the grout lines can cause a lot of trouble when breaking the clips off after installation. This is good practice anyways to ensure there is plenty of grout in between the tile but is very critical around the clips. I’ve found keeping an old toothbrush and a bucket of water next to me works best.
Brilliant video, none of the "I'm a great guy" rubbish - straight to the point, clearly explained and the glass tiles just make the whole video work. Excellent.
thanks!
Excellent demo. The clear glass tiles made your points … so transparent. Appreciate the effort.
Thank you so much for showing what's going on behind the tiles!!! This is so much more informational than "just do it because we says so"!
EXCELLENT...the glass shows what happens on the back of tile.
Thank you from all who like things done to last. And look right.
Thank you for watching! 👊
Great video. i learned a ton and have a ton more confidence heading over to Menards get my mortar and trowel in about 5 minutes. This was just the video I was looking for to make sure my bathroom tiles were set properly and with zero lippage. Thanks a ton !!!!
I'm happy we could help with your installation! Good luck and thanks for watching 👊
This worked great for redoing the shower/bathtub of my kid's bathroom. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxfiuHoZJo3bgdVPFRxQ-iqPpfbEHl2cYt I didn't like the guide, so I took it off. I just used a fine tipped sharpie on the tile and followed that line. It does make a wet mess, and once I started looking like I wet myself I started wearing a towel and apron while cutting. The blade it came with worked great until we wore it out. It was better than the replacement one we bought. I tried looking for just their blade, but failed. Not really for larger tiles unless you stack stuff on either side to support the tiles. Anyway, would definitley buy again.
I've done a lot of things but I've never tiled and I'm about to tile my parent's bathroom floor and you literally answered every question I had and a few I didn't even know I should have with this one video. I feel confident that I can nail this job no problem.
Thanks!
So how did it turn out ?👍
Do not back butter that tile it is not professional and may create blotting and cracking
@@user-jl7yb9cw1w The people who built my house 20 years ago did not back butter. That is why there are air gaps when i step on the tiles years later. Very little penetration on the back of the tile.
You a certainly the best tile man out there thank you so much for your help
Great demo. detailed and to the point without all the unnecessary blah blah. Thanks
Thanks for this from a master tilesetter that is still learning new techniques after 15 years.
If you would backbutter the glass you would have even more coverage and bonding.
But if you did that it might have been hard to see what's going on so I understand why you left it out.
That happens when you pretending that you know the job hahah funny video.
He mentions this in the video that’s why he left it out because viewers would not be able to see what was going on
Wonder, straight to the point, no BS, video. Love it. Thanks!
Excellent perception with the transparent glass illustration 👌 nice touch
Thank you very much!
Thank you. Very good video, it did help me a lot.
Very *clear* demonstration! You explained this better than anyone else.
Has nothing to do with leveling system. That was correct and incorrect way of applying the thinset
Lol right
Which they already made a video about. I hope they put more effort into tiling than choosing titles for their videos.
even that was done dishonestly. He didnt apply any down pressure to the first 2 tiles to collapse the ridges. I know directional troweling is important but he fudged the experiment to get his desired result
BACKBUTTER
You noticed also
Thanks King. Its my first time doing this kind of job and this video helped me 100%
Great video. Brilliant use of glass to illustrate what's happening behind the tile.
You guys have made me a better tile guy and I thank you very much. Nothing but love
Thanks for the comment my man! Tile on 👊
Best explanation I could find on youtube. Thank you!!!
Very helpful to see through the tiles! Thanks!
Spot bonding is needed during certain situations.
AWESOME!! Would have been even better if you showed how to use the levelers for those beginners. How do you uninstall the levers?
Thanks for the great video on setting floor tiles on thinset. It is very helpful and I appreciate your time and helpful advise.
Fantastic video...love the cause-and-effect use of glass panes. Very beneficial
Glad it was helpful!
Yup, absolutely right! I like this video - straight to the point, no BS.
Awesome video, I like how you used glass panels to show how well the tile will bond. What I learned from this video is that if the thinset is not applied properly then the tile leveling system is almost ineffective.
Yes! That's exactly what I was trying to demonstrate. You should check out my how to use tile leveling systems on walls video I recently posted, it's a good one! 👊
Yes!
You got the point, others missed.
The way you trowel is the way you set the tile. No tile leveling system can work againdt poorly trowelled cement.
@@LandbergTileTV How much you earn for a day or oer hour?
A great video about how to apply thinset. As others have said, this was all about how to apply thinset and push down on the tile to collapse the ridges and nothing about using the wedges. The only useful tip about using wedges that you did show was removing the thinset between the tiles. You did it but did not talk about it.
I already put some tiles without backbuttering, can I do the rest of my tiles backbuttering style, or my existing tiles will sit too low??
Tiles are 24x24
Professional tile installers in our area still swirl the thin set and eyeball the level. Amazing.
To level tile on a 3x5 sheet is a lot different than finding a high spot and going off it in a 300sq’ room
This is indeed so, while the tile leveling systems are NOT meant to fully compensate for uneven floors, some help on how to deal with such floors would be appreciated
Or 1000 🤣
It looks like green is your favorite color I never seen lime green gloves before
Iv been cleaning carpet, tile and grout professionally for the last few years. Looking to finally start my own business in Florida installing and cleaning tile and grout. Seems pretty straight forward to me. Iv never installed a single tile yet, but this makes perfect sense to me.
In florida!??! Tile installation doesnt pay, people here are always broke. And if you do that back buttering waste of time u wont last in the business, at least in fl
Come to canada its 3-12$ a sqft vancouver to b exact 8$ is what id say most charge u can make 20k+ a month
@@ecom300 nova Scotia 3 bucks.supply mortar and delivery.
@@stevedimock3001 wow thats cheap down in bc they charge 8-12 ive even heard ppl charging 20 a sqft only grout incl
@@ecom300 I been doing this for 35 years the only thing that's gone up is the size of the tile and amount of mortar and effort. Oh and the warranty to 3 years with 3 8ths ply over 5 8ths chipboard that's swelled and delamenated from rain and weather.
I have done some floor tiles with these levelers, and most anoying thing is thinset around plastic. You need completly clean plastic and remove exces thinset from tile edge, otherwise plastic get stuck in between tiles (where grout needs to be). And lightly backbutter every tile for 100% coverage.
After you Directional trowel whatever size trowel you use your supposed to move the tile 3x the distance of the notch to knock down the ridges to get your coverage. Back buttering helps only with transfer not with coverage
Great demonstration. Thank you
Great, short tutorial. Thanks.
Excellent! And I agree back buttering would have yielded nearly 100%.
Excellent video bro...nice,simple and understanding. #no-long-talk
is pliar required necessary for pushing wedges? or can we make it tight with our hand by pushing them?
Wow bro how much you have changes in 3 years. You look like a completely different guy. Still the 🐐 tho
1:56 rhythmic spotbonding! Nice
Which ones do you prefer
how to make slight incline/decline (balcony ) for water movement ?
This video was more about troweling than it was using a leveling system like the title says
Good point Travis, I could have gone over more info on leveling systems. Thanks for giving me a good idea for the next video! 👊
Incorrect troweling is a not a wrong way to use clips.
Sort of like a video on the correct way to use screws, and the content covers adhesive application.
Sorry for beating the dead horse.
He was trying to point out that the leveling system works better with throweling the right way so the ridges can collapse properly. At least that's what I learned from this video.
I think he's trying to show that the leveling system is not meant to compensate for poor trowelling technique
Hey Guys, there’s a good possibility that it was a video about all the above. All of your thoughts encompassed into one video. 😉
Hi, should we let the first tile dry before installing the next tiles? If don't, will the the first tile move after we tighten the wedges?
Large format tiles should always be back buttered as well as trowling the substrate, this ensures coverage.
Yup
first step you miss to press down for the ridges to collapse?
Short and sweet, good content, thanks
Glad you liked it!
Ugh where was this video 2 weeks ago when I needed it! damn you google algorithm! thanks for the tips
How to remove the plastic levelers or do you just trim them with a razor blade and leave them?
Nevermind, watched your later videos. I very much appreciate all your effort making these videos. I’ve learned a lot thanks to you. If DeWalt had a rolling saw, I’d have gone that route, but a bad back and being 52, the wheeled cart on the R4093 Ridgid is perfect for me.
Oh great - so I found another channel (this one) that I must subscribe to.
I give up - subscribed. 😅
Do you use backbuttering and does it help
Watched the end and saw you mentioned it. Do you have a similar video for back buttering
Yes, we always backbutter. It helps a ton
Ok might sound like a stupid question but how do you get the white bits out?
The white plastic that breaks off stays underneath the tile. You still have room for grout.
@@LandbergTileTV thank you!
Great video many thanks.
What size spacing between the tiles would you recommend on floor tiles in a bathroom. The tiles I am using are 600mm x 300mm and 8mm thick.
Thanks Chris
Are those green clips reusable?
How are the white clips removed from the grout line? Or are they left there and then buried in the grout?
Yes, knock them off and they are left there
Very informative- thank you. Quick question, why is it necessary to put adhesive on the back of the tile as well as the wall?
Backbutter gives the tile a better bond
Landberg Tile TV - thank you.
For 24 x 48 tiles do you use the same 1/2in trrowl?
yes we do
I have a question!?
Why didn't you apply the same amount of pressure on the glas tile with "diagonal troweling" at 0:55 and 1:11,
as you did at 3:23, 3:30, 3:36 and 3:43 with the "straight troweling".???
And as you mentioned...don´t forget to back butter the back of the tiles....
Because if he had that then set would have had full coverage.
Because this is a bullshit video.
Why do you apply pressure to the thinset that is spread in on direction Nd not the one that is spread in different directions
Hey how do you remove the plastic pieces that are between the grout lines? Do you just leave them in there after breaking off the top?
You kick the wedges SIDEWAYS and the plastic pieces break away at the bottom. A small part stays under the tiles. Don't kick in the direction of the wedge, the plastic part will break at the wrong place and that's a lot of work to fix before grouting. By the way, you can use the wedges over and over again.
This is more of a video on how to trowel. Was looking for more details on how to level them properly
I have lots of videos on leveling systems, here is my playlist link:
ua-cam.com/video/oo1cVAy8wxc/v-deo.html
With the swirl troweling, you are careful not to push on it at all, but then with the directional trowel you still gave it a good shove to bed it down. While directional troweling is indeed ideal, in many situations like corners it can be difficult, and this video over-exaggerates the difference. If you had given those first set a bit of a push they would have been bedded nearly as well, and certainly with the 85% coverage needed to be properly bonded.
ya, why be bogus?
Yes I totally agree it's no comparison unless the same procedure is done for all ? Pointless
Awesome video. Thank you. It helped a lot on my living room tile install. Very educational.
Thanks for the kind words! Happy you enjoyed it. 👊
does this system eliminate the need for spacers? I've seen some where you still need them.
FireTrace i want to know this too. I don’t see much space between the tiles.
It depends on the grout joint you are trying to achieve! Most of the systems out there are a standard 1/16” spacer. If you want a thicker joint you will need to use spacers in addition to the leveling system
The clips act as spacers. Most major brands offer 1/32, 1/16, and 1/8 inch
Question - When I backbutter I do so perpendicular to trowel pattern on backer board allowing for a more uniform bedding. Is that a myth?
that's correct brother
How do you get the white plastic things out
Kinda funny how you didn't push the first tiles down as hard as you did on the second one's where you used directional trialing. 🤔
You failed Need to back butter all tile before setting tile in troweled area. Next
@@bryanthomas5275 he addresses this if you were paying attention. Second he's using glass for a reason and back buttering would have taken away from the demonstration of what happens to the ridges.
kinda funny how its very obvious your still doing it the wrong way!
You mention in the video to use a 1/2” trowel. I’m using this system on a 3x12 subway tile backsplash and a 1/2” would be way too big. Can you use the wedges with a 1/4” square notch or is that not enough thinset for these systems?
That is not enough for a system like this, but we use clips and wedges with a 3/8 trowel installing 3x12 tiles.
What thinset is needed to make sure its a clean break? Thank you, for the video
Thinset doesn't matter, make sure you clear out the edge of the tile before setting and keep thinset away from the clip base👊👊👊
Used the wedge system you recommend and had the worst time breaking them off after leaving for 48 hours. The thin set squeezed up around the levelers (due to moving the tile on wet thin set) and locked them in place. I had to use a Dremel tool to cut out the plastic and grind the thin set down. I had 1/8" grout line, not sure it that makes a difference.
I always remove spacers and wipe down within 24 hours.
Thank you so much for clarifying the ceramic installation
Can the tile chip when removing the T part after the job is done ???
i dont think so, the T part was design to Breakable, when the thin set getting hard it is easy to break and remove them.
Question, does it matter the direction of installing the wedges? I'm probably over thinking it and it makes no difference but I need to know.
Install them with the tils towards already installed tile.
Hi .. I have removed the old floors from a bathroom, around 5 square meter. There was a celotex (50mm), sitting on a concrete slab. I repeated the same model, but I added a membering first then 50mm celotex then 12mm Hardibacker. I fixed the hardibacker with screws to the main concrete slab through the celotex. Any potential problem with that? Any advice before tiling?
Wich one is better ??
Orange or green?
we prefer a wedge system
What about some tiller use watery cement to tiles.. especially you tube video from Vietnam.. does it okay?
Very concise, very informative.
The first tiles with non directional troweling you just set the tiles down and didn’t even try to push on tiles to collapse the ridges like you did on the directional trowel.
This is definetly the only correct way to do it properly!
Yes sir! Thanks for watching 👊
Not is Not
Hi, i would like ask you please.? If you need install porcelain 60cmx60cm what's the standard space between porcelain less than 2mm or more, same question to the porcelain 60cmx120cm
Great video! Perfect example of how to get it done right the first time...
Thanks! 👍
I think is all about thinset consistency.
At 3:25 and 3:31 you spread the adhesive with the trowel, did you add any adhgesive or just spread what you have on the board please?
The glass was great idea! I gotta add after reading some comments you gotta tough crowd here😆
lol, I don't mind rude comments, UA-cam is infamous for it! Thanks for the watch and add 👊
hi. do you need to level the floor before using tile leveling system?
No but if floor is more than 1/2 out of plub
I'd love to see how it looks/works with a non perfect worksurface. For instance 1/8 in 4ft or more to see how the thin set reacts.
That is why you prepare your surface/substrate before tiling.
Thanks bro 4 make a very useful video.it's helpful for me because im a tile fixer in uae.thanks again
Do you use these leveling pieces by edges ? If not , does tile stay even leveled if u don’t use them ball wall edge?
Can you use tile spacers with a leveling system if you want wider gaps between tiles?
Yes, they offer different grout joint sizes.
Most informative video on the subject matter on UA-cam. Well done, visual demonstration was fantastic- very informative.
Thank you sir! Appreciate the kind comment. 👊
Going a bit far now mate
I've used both of the tile leveling systems and the spin on one are better and faster and even a lot easier to use
I’d be afraid the spin on levelers, could raise one tile up if the other tile cannot go down any further. Thus creating an air pocket. A penny for ur thoughts as I’ve never used either, but gonna attempt to tile my bathroom floor soon.
What type of gloves are those?
I have a link in the video description, they are amazing!
can you use tile spacers with these systems? and can these be used on the wall or just floor applications?
Yes you can, just place the spacers on every corner. Must of these systems come in a standard 1/16” thickness, just add your desired spacer and make sure the tiles are tight against each other, you can use a mallet for that
Is there a certain "torque" on the leveling pliers. Looks simple I just want to make sure I squeeze my plier enough. Can you "over squeeze"?
We dont use pliers much anymore, use fingers and you'll know when its tight.
Is there rules when installing plank tiles, is there a direction they are suppose to be laid?
There are typically 3 different layouts when installing porcelain planks. Random, 50% offset and 33% offset. We prefer 33% offset with small floors and random with large floors.
Thanks @@LandbergTileTV
I did the correct method for my first tile job👍