VW 82mm Crank & Cam Clearance
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- Опубліковано 16 чер 2020
- Have a look inside this old school Stroker air cooled engine. I built this 2110 CC VW engine back in the 1990's. The case was purchased new as a AS41 Super Case but I bought the standard camshaft and had to clearance that myself. I have changed heads and changed compression more than ounce but this is the first time I have cracked the case and I was surprised to find everything in great condition decades later.
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It’s beautiful in there, looks brand new!
My vote is C35 cam, 9.0:1 static compression and you’ll be so happy with the combo in anything that you drive with the power and of the C35.
Even with the C35, do the dynamic compression calculation.... you’d be surprised.
I ran the numbers for you.... 2110 with the C35 and 9.6:1 static compression you’d have 8.4:1 dynamic compression with the C35.
You sent me the link on the dynamic but I am not get the light to come on yet! To busy right now. Wait till you see what I found at the oil pump mount. :-(
TheEZGZ understand, take your time.... I was just trying to show you some of the results for you to mull over.
I’m not liking the way you said that last sentence.... 😔
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot my account password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Joshua Damon instablaster ;)
@Zayd Malcolm Thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hey! Love your Chanel. I learn something every show. I been watching since the beginning. Keep up the good work.
Awesome! Thank you!
Bump that compression up putting it back together looks great,
No shims, 60cc head, .050 deck = 8.7 That's what I'm going with just for the Heartthrob. hehehe
I was/am a respectful follower of Gene Berg on so many things...and his many teachings are great guidance to follow, but his chamber-cutting to lower compression doesn't seem to be ideal for low to mid range performance these days. Many years later we can see/feel (butt dyno) the benefit of a tight deck with squish to produce violent mixture agitation to control detonation, allowing higher static compression. Seems we respected Gene so much for all the insight he provided that it was always safe to listen, but there are so many engines running successfully, on the street and track with a point or so higher compression than What Gene felt was necessary, that we can't leave the benefits of higher compression on the table. On the street, we spend a lot of time on Idle Circuit and enjoy the feel and drivability of a higher compression engine. As long as were not overheating or detonating should be fine. What's your thoughts on timing, have you reduced it to be safe? What octane fuel will you run in the future? Interesting path your on, Stroke, compression, shorter rod ratios and milder cam timing to make torque in the daily driving range, thanks for sharing it with us. Most of the time it's all about maxing out those top end HP numbers...but we don't spend too much time at that end of the RPM range on Daily Drivers. Just going to the store is more enjoyable with more power on the bottom and mid range! Us old guys think that way.
Thank You Ken. I also believe that the ethanol fuel is way different than when GB was still with us and Ranting and Raving about what "THEY SAY". I followed everything GB required, Blue Books and more $$$ than I care to think about. When I had a problem and called him for help he was a class A Prick. Maybe he was just having a bad day? Times have changed for sure. PEACE!
Never seen a clearanced cam lobe! Cool
Thats why I was going to put the FK7 in there. I figured what I did would ruin the cam. When I built it I had sent the roatating assembly out to get balanced. When I got it back and went to put the cam in I didn't know what else to do. I don't recomend doing that. I did not know at the time you have to push your crankshaft to the flywheel before you start checking for clearance. I moved it both ways to play it safe......... Sometimes even a blind squirrel finds a nut. lol
Looks shiney, would love to see it wot🏁😎
More fun to feel it WOT 2nd, 3rd :-0
We built a 2180cc recently with FK7 with 1.25 rockers and 8.7 comp. When we ran the cam in we started to wonder if we'd been sold a stock cam - it ran so smooth and had torque everywhere to 5500rpm.
Personally I would have preferred to have built this motor with higher comp (9.0) as our fuel starts at 91 Octane and we also can get 95 Oct at just about any Gas station too. This motor went into a bus and had to be super reliable too.
I forgot to add that the owner had supplied 42x37.5 CB heads so valve size was bigger than we wanted to use for the 2180cc. That was the reason for only using 1.25 rockers on the FK7. I believe the less cam lift with the FK7 is kinder on lifter bores.
Isso não é um motor, é uma obra de arte!😄
She looks great EZ nice and clean ✌️✌️✌️✌️✌️
Thanks 👍
I wana know what happened to your hand? Bear attack? ha ha. Thanks Greg love your stuff.
The Lady that Runs the Burrito bar caught me reaching for a hot pepper and beat me with a spoon, or was it a fork or maybe a spatula Anyway, when I came to, I was lying in the alley next to a dumpster. I got up, came home and made myself a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. The End
Looks like money. Nice job
Old Money.... hehehe
Oh man you've made a great decision for what your looking to achieve. You had me worried there for a minute with that fk-7, it's a real dog when your trying to run low lift. That big engine would be suffocating for air with that little cam even at low RPM. The C-35 with stock 1.1:1 rockers will produce the same low end torque in that big engine as the FK-7, but the FK-7 will fall off quickly at 2500RPM.
110, C-35, web 119 are all so close It makes no difference. Bolt her up with that C-35, 8.7:1, and run it, that's an awesome combo!
What's your take on valve springs. Minimum I'm going with the HD singles but have never had issues with Doubles. This 2110 had doubles on it for 20 years. I could take those old doubles and set them up on the stock heads..... I know what Gene Berg would say. Doubles all the way. Haaaaa Makes adjusting valves even more fun. hehehe
@@TheEZGZ
The C-35 does not need dual springs if your running stock 1.1:1 rockers. It does need good HD single springs, that's it. Anymore is just overkill and unnecessary load on the valve train. If the plan was to consistently push the RPM up high or run 1.25 rockers then you must run dual springs.
Single springs, 1.1:1 rockers, C-35 cam. She'll live a long happy life and make great power.
was the problem with the grinding the cam lobe because of too much gross lift like .400 or more? i am just digging into a 2110 with an engle 110 (gross lift .392) is this my future ? thanks EZ
I like those Scat cranks with the grooved main journals. I want one. I have the 84mm CB Super Crank and 5.5 Super Rods but debate whether I shoulda gotten the Scat job.
Have you priced the Scat cranks lately? Make sure your sitting down.
@@TheEZGZ Right! There is a Scat forged crank then the Scat billet crank and I believe the billet is the one that carries the most sticker shock lol.
ezcz pops up just as im about to shut her down , but i have to watch now 2am, good thing im a night owl, but always interesting i have to say.
Sweet VW Dreams my friend
I think you’ll be fine with the compression pushing 9:1. You need it living So high up in the air ha ha. I’m at 1,565 feet or I like to round it up to 1,600 🤪. Still pondering a Bigger engine and I have a spare case so leaving my 1641 alone. Since I’m not normal ,thinking about 76mm stroke and 92mm thick walls. The only carb set ups I have are the 34 pict 3 and a Dellorto 40 centermount set up. So I am thinking a Camshaft I need are one with the Least amount of reversion so the idle is nice and engine will run cleaner overall. I come from a circle track racing background as far as engine building goes and I can still get a deal on Crower camshafts so been thinking about a Crower 61002. You can see the cam card on the Crower web page. It’s s little different thought process but I think it would work with a center mount. Probably run compression around 8.5 and heads are yet to be determined. But not overly aggressive. I want a cruiser that will have some nice driveability and run run up to 5000 with ease. Just an overall happy engine. The Crower cam has an rpm range of 1,800 to 5,500.
You do what you want but as far as I'm concerned I get just as much power from a 69 x 90.5 = 1776 cause the head and pistons are the stock style A pin height. You will make a tiny bit less HP but it is easy to build and will last a lot longer. Those 74 and 76 cranks are odd ball's. Ask me how I know. LOL
Dare to be different. At the end of my Project I’ll probably just be cruising with my 1641 with stock Cam Center Mount 40 Dell playing with Ratio Rockers Looking for a big Hill Ha Ha. Gotta dream about something bigger though.
I fixed one up in the 80s with duel Solex Carbs but not sure if you changed your gears in your transaxle .I put close ratio 3 rd gear and it would put run V8s .
Great video keep them coming
Sounds like you had a Hot Setup..... cooooool
In the words of the late NHRA announcer Steve Evans ( Cubic Money ), beautiful build. Is that a after market case ? That crank and rods are making my mouth water 😜
It's been a Loooooong time since I've seen it up close and personal. I think I bought it from CB performance back in the day. I forgot to show it up close but you can see in the video where the weld the patch in behind #3
Great video 👍🏽
those bearings look great what brand are they?
They are Silver line steel backed but don't buy the new double thrust cam bearings from them. Go with something else. You will spend a lot of time getting the thrust right otherwise.
What did you use to seal the case halves up back then and the other parts? Looks like you built it yesterday. very nice
Probably back then I used Permatex Aviation sealer. The heads were changed in 2016 and I used the High Temp red RTV silicone on cylinder bases. They have a lot of cool stuff out now and most engines are aluminum or have aluminum heads. Honda sell some kind of magic in a tube that works good. Just start reading labels. It's a air Cooled VW so you know it's going to leak eventually....;...
@@TheEZGZ Yup,.lots and lots of stuff out now. What will you use to seal it when you re-assemble? I have heard of the HondaBond? and Loctite 518...etc etc etc thanks again
Surprising that the cam didn’t go flat never seen someone clearance the cam 😂 if you used the springs I use that wouldn’t lasted a day
Almost all stroker crankshafts have to do this to clear the counter weights. If your using a big cam on a stock 69mm crank it isn't a problem. Why are you using monster cam eating springs????
I clearance them crank if it’s going to touch the cam
@@TheEZGZ I don’t ever touch the lobe
I race VWs
The CB 2280 (274/222) with stock valves might not breathe well enough for that 2110. I'd consider something like a CB 2236 (280/236) or Engle W100 (276/236). If you really want to use the 2280, use 40x35.5 valves.
Since everything looks so nice inside. I'm going to leave it. It's a C35 Scat. I had 40 x 35 head with 9.6 but I want it more street friendly. I'm going with 8.7 compression and stock valve 60 cc heads. Should give me more bottom end air speed. I don't care about top end so much as I used too.
@@TheEZGZ ? in the description you say a standard cam. seems contradictory
Ez, what did you do to your hands? They looked sort of chewed up! Careful now 😃
The Lady that Runs the Burrito bar caught me reaching for a hot pepper and beat me with a spoon, or was it a fork or maybe a spatula Anyway, when I woke up, I was lying in the alley next to a dumpster. I got up, came home and made myself a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and licked my wounds. The End
@@TheEZGZ 😂
Hi EZ
any thoughts on Chevy journals?
Yeah, they are 4 mm smaller or ( .165 ) than stock VW which is 55 mm makes them weaker and flex. People have been doing it for decades and if you don't over rev or make to much HP it will last a long time. I sure wouldn't be popping the clutch trying to do wheelies thats for sure.
The other side of the chevy journal .. is that the smaller diameter has less friction speed = less wear.
So, with higher quality oils ... and more accurately counterbalanced cranks ... the chevy journals are probably better.
They are also smaller in diameter .. which means .. you don't have to grind your cam lobes.
That's kinda a big thing ... 🎉
Not sure what the Delo has to do with catalytic converters does not hurt the cats. I use it in all my car's. My buddy stands by it.
Well since your not sure let me expand on it. Read this from ACN (Air Cooled Net. ) Show it to your Buddy .....
7/13/14 IMPORTANT UPDATE! Since this article was written, there have been a lot of changes with oils which we use in our beloved vintage aircooled engines. For a long time, one “insider trick” was to use a good diesel oil, like Delo 15-40, which had great anti-scuff properties, even for our gasoline engines. But as things progress, things change! You have to keep up with these changes, or you can pay a serious price. A couple years ago the formulation of diesel oils CHANGED, and they no longer offered the advantages they had previously for us!
At ACN we try to keep abreast of what people at the ground level (that’s you) are experiencing, with all sorts of products. We have been hearing reports of people running diesel oils running oil temperatures that were ~20F elevated from their “normal” temperatures for some time, and finally put 2 and 2 together. On our recommendations that they change from the diesel oil to a good dino oil (for gasoline engines), or synthetic (also for gasoline engines), customers have reported oil temperatures dropping back to where they were used to seeing them. So as of now (7/15/14) we have had reports of great results with both Amsoil Synthetic Z-Rod 5-30, or Valvoline VR-1 (which we do not sell, but you can get it at your FLAPS). What weight oil to get is another topic entirely. What you need to know is that as of this moment we know these are 2 oils that will work very well on your vintage VW aircooled engine!
@@TheEZGZ also, Jake Raby has a lot of stuff about oils. They have an article about a known porsche engine that had a tear-down and no wear after 100,000 miles. They advocate semi or fully synthetic but that never worked for me and many others. Too thin.
Get that cough, check out. I'm starting to worry about you. ✌
I asked the Doc he suggested experimenting with inhaler for 3 months to see how it goes. Went to the pharmacy to pick it up and they wanted $1,200 with my insurance discount. I asked if I could just try one for a month instead of 3. They said OK but have to charge you more cause it comes in a 3 pack. I'll live with the cough a little longer. hehehehe
@@TheEZGZ
Please find a way to raise the funds to buy the inhalers. We need you to stay healthy. 🙏
Has your cam bearing nearest the cam wheel lost all its white metal????
Also, Compression is a funny thing.....people get hung up on head c.c.........yes its important as it forms part of the compression calculation......BUT most important is DECK HEIGHT.....
engines with poor deck height (too big) will run way worse than engines with large c.c heads.......they could both be 8:1 compression engines but the motor with the large deck height will be down on power compared to the motor with the larger c.c heads and CORRECT deck height.....
That engine has been sitting for a while. The oil was very Black I'm embarrassed to admit. The bear is Ok thanks for mentioning it. I appreciate your input and observations. The Deck height was .150 and I am reasembling it with .050 Knowing that the minimum should never be less than .040. I'm still learning about combustion, squish and flame travel. I noticed that all 4 piston tops had some orange colord area's about where the spark plug would be. Plugs did not look particularly nice. Look over rich.....
@@TheEZGZ Low compression engines always seem to run rich and blacken the plugs, they don't do a good job at burning ALL the fuel.
Just rebuild for pump gas and Bob's ya auntie.
Great minds think alike :-)