Volkswagen Aircooled 2007cc Stroker Engine Assembly, Part 1 - The Short Block
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- Опубліковано 10 жов 2023
- Today's video we are going through the build process of putting together an aircooled stroker engine. The tips and tricks covered in this video are basic practices for any engine build where we cover the oiling system and bearing clearances, flushing the the crank shaft, fitting beatings, cam, etc.
This is a 78mm x 90.5mm single port engine with a w100 cam.
This is part one due to how long the video is, part 2 will cover the top end and the process of setting deck height, rocker arm geometry, etc.
Thank you for watching.
Please like, comment, share and follow along!
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I would buy that engine GREAT JOB.
Thank you, I appreciate that.
Gary, you're an educator, man, for real. Thanks for doing these vids. Demystifies so much about building these engines.
I’ve learned a lot from other great people as well. I can’t take credit for all of it.
@@VWJawbreaker Quick question, how important is it to balance an engine? Not sure if you mentioned if this was or not. Or if you mentioned it with your 2054. Thanks.
@@stuck1000 I usually balance the rods and pistons myself, the best that I can since there isn’t anyone locally that can do the rotating assembly.
It’s best to have the complete assembly balanced including the flywheel and pressure plate.
@@VWJawbreaker Gotcha. Thanks, man.
Gary , you have just inspired me to start a stroker build, I know I have just had a lump built, but, man! Nothing like building your own. Buzzing for the next vid now, as I am scouring the internet for parts lol. Don’t tell Ally
I sure wish you were closer, id be happy to help you in a heartbeat! And keep it from ally 😂
Thank you for this one Gary! You know I have been planning this 2110 build out for a little while, and am about to begin on it. I never would have thought to clean those crank plugs. Thanks always for the upload!
Absolutely buddy, hopefully something in the video will help you on your build.
It’s so important to clean everything….
The crank journals, engine case and oil journals…. Everything.
Gary , You do the VW nation a great service . Your videos are the best ( as long as the camera stays rolling LOL ).
Thank you greatly!
Great information on this video thanks for doing a good job explaining everything. You can’t beat old hand me down tools
Thanks buddy!
Nice job my friend! The VW community needs to see more failure, cause and effect analyzing. No need to bash products or builders. Stuff happens. The important thing is why and we may never know for sure. Looks like my kind of engine on the mild side.
Thank you sir! I wish I had more concrete evidence of what really happened with the engine… I have a theory but I’m keeping it to myself to protect the builder as it’s only a theory.
It’s a beast of an engine especially in that bay window bus! Single carb, single port stroker.
Can’t wait for part deuce !
Will be out next Wednesday.
Great vid Gary, I learned a lot from watching this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice job Gary! One of the best VW engine assembly videos I’ve seen.👍
Wow, thanks! I appreciate that sir.
Very informational . thanks Gary.....
Very welcome!
Thanks buddy you’re video is very helpful 😊😊
I’m glad you found the video helpful!
Excellent video!!!!!
Thank you very much!
Fantastic work, sir! You absolutely know your stuff! Only thing I would’ve done differently is install the oil pump at the same time you’re finishing your short block.
Thanks buddy.
Yes I agree and usually I do but I needed to end the video.
Thanks for your time in trying to educate those that have never done this. But at 71 it’s not to late. I don’t quite get the spray paint trick. I don’t understand how the non painted area tells you that no oil is coming out of the hole. Thanks again
Thank you for taking the time to watch the video.
Regarding the spray paint trick, all you’re doing is transferring marks from one thing to another.
The oil hole in the case needs to line up with the center oiling groove in the bearing. Hope that helps explain it better.
A-OK video ! Great explanations and motivating to build a engine. Greeting from France
Glad you enjoyed it and thank you for being here!
Awesome Videos as always!
Thank you.
I noticed you did wiggle the cam to make sure it is not too tight. plus make sure it does not jump out. (usually does that when it is too tight.)
Sure did. I’ve seen them also jump when the gears don’t mesh together properly.
I like the attention to detail with the bearing oil passages, nice work!
This detail is often overlooked so that’s why I cover it more often.
Great video and motor building advice!! Soon our temperatures will be the same its getting warm here ;)
Thank you sir. It’s starting to cool down, this was recorded about 6 weeks ago 😂
@@VWJawbreaker hahaha don’t worry im about 3 weeks ahead too😂
@@Demop_VW_garage that’s a great place to be!!
Thanks for the video Gary.
You are very welcome.
These engine videos are one of my favorite things about your channel, watching and learning , tks for sharing.
Thank you for being here, I greatly appreciate it.
Great video learning a lot
Glad to hear it!
I just recently found your channel. Boy, you are a stickler for details, which is the way to be. Can’t wait to hear it run. Keep up the good vids.
Glad you found the channel and hope you stick around and enjoy!
As always, spot on and informative! Tight work sir!
Much appreciated good sir!
Great tutorial! Well explained and easy to follow….thanks for posting this! 🙂👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hi Garry, wow great Instructional video was Interesting to follow the process. You know your stuff and how to assemble the engine again amount your other knowledge about your doings, I`m sure a lot of VW bug owners have a great joy of this video, and keep up the good work. Greetings.Hubertus.👍🏻🙏🏻🇳🇴🇳🇱☮🇺🇸
Thank you sir.
THAT’S ALL OKAY!!! Good job!
Thank you.
I noticed the orings were on the case too.....FYI on a 78 I would shuffle pin the center main for you guys diy. longer lasting. I know there is no place to do that out there. that is why on stock cases I go 74 max. aluminum is already shuffle pinned. and does not require it. So on a 78 best just just bust ou the wallet and go aluminum. Pricy but worth it in the long term.
I do agree with you but this was a repair and get back to the owner. He didn’t want to do a 74 in place of his 78… all I can do is make suggestions and notate that in writing.
You may not be a Master engine builder, but you sure do seem to be a highly rated “Pro”, 👍
Thank you. Definitely not a pro and there’s many others that are more knowledgeable than me.
@@VWJawbreaker yeah, but I don’t watch them. 😉
Thanks! Forgot to mention I’m having a 2156 built by a club member in Raleigh. Unfortunately I have no idea what he’s talking about
As long as it’s what you want in the end that’s what matters. It’s like computers for some people, don’t tell them the specs just give them what they need.
Nice work Gary! Hey where's your gloves at these chemicals are some nasty stuff
You have a good point, I just hate working in gloves.
we use red locktight on the crank plugs.
CB says blue....I guess that is OK. but we have always used red.
I’ve used both but I was out of red that day so blue is better than nothing.
@@VWJawbreaker hey CB says blue...I am certain they know what they are doing.
@Mikefngarage you’d hope so! Lol
Gary once again thank you for sharing. Your videos are some of the best. This winter my project is either 1904cc or 1915cc. I do have my eye on the EMPI 1914cc short block what do you think of that engine. It will go in my 67 bus. Thanks again.
Absolutely and thanks for being here.
Imo, for a bus you’ll want a stroker engine, small cam. You don’t need high hp but good low end torque.
Great Video. Made in China, Amazing
Yes, thanks!
Great job of explaining and showing the process. What were you using to seal the case with? I know everyone has their own favorite.
Thank you I appreciate that.
I’ve used several different kinds and I’ve had the best luck with Yamabond.
Hey Gary ! How I check the line bore is the shade tree way ? Take the #1 and push it in the # 1,2,3 saddles and see if you can lift that side of the case off the table . That case seems to grip the bearings OK .
That way definitely works also!
👍👍
🙏
Surprised you didn't modified the case to avoid the rear main seal leaking issue.
I did it but not on camera this time.
@@VWJawbreaker Okay
You forgot to lube the cam lobes with cam lube or STP. You might end up with a flat cam.
21:22
There was cam lube on the lifters…. No need to do both, I’ve never had an issue.
When using stock rods vw rods 113 or 311 the numbers always face up when the crankshaft is in rotation in the engine block
Well, these are CB rods, tangs are facing the correct way. 🤙
Hey great aawesome work, need a 1600 rebuild, anyone down so cal recomended ??,
Tons of places in cali, don’t know anyone there personally.
How do you measure cam shaft saddles when case is stripped and bolted together?
Through the cam plug or oil pump location.
Gary, What is your opinion on the helical gears vs the straight cut gears?
Stick helical gears are fine for a smaller cam that only require stock or single HD springs. If you need dual valve springs, straight cut gears are best.
Nice video. Thank you. I was wondering what you are using for sealing the case? is it Silicone? I'm just about to do my first build and was wondering. Seems to be different for everyone which is fine but some say don't use silicone. Some use the Gasgacinch and others use Aviation sealant. But when I tore down my old 1600 that had locked up years ago, I found dried sealant inside oil gillies along with other junk so I'm leaning towards not using silicone.
Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it.
I agree, silicone or anything in excess isn’t good.
I’ve tried the aviation sealant and wasn’t impressed at all. Everyone says that these engines leak oil but you can prevent it by assembling it correctly and paying attention to the details.
I use a very thin layer of Yamabond, it isn’t a silicone and again anything can be bad if you use way too much.
I wish they had those rods in 5.325.
Me to, they are a great rod option.
One can you address engine tin mods for stroker motors
Each one is slight different. Just need to do what you need to do to make them fit better. That goes for all aftermarket tins even on a stock engine.
Do you have a parts list of what you used ?
I do not.
What kind of case sealant did you use?
@@darrellowensjr7030 I’ve had the best luck with Yamabond.
Hello you mentioned in your replies you like Yamabond to seal the case halves. Is thet Yamabond 4 or Yamabond 5?
Thank you for asking and having me clarify. Yamabond 4 is the one I’ve been using.
@@VWJawbreaker Thank you for the quick reply.
Did that CB crank come with the (plastic) soft plugs? I have an 82mm CB crank that came with those...Makes me nervous for some reason...
They are steel plugs and that’s why you use lock tight on them to ensure they can’t come out.
Looks like I'm calling CB performance...I don't like those plastic ones.
Good day, Gary. It's Jose here from far away Florida. I watch your videos from Spain. What amount of HP could I expect from this engine? Do you think is best 1776 or 1800 or even 1904? I'd like to make a reliable daily driver. Thanks for all your videos. I learn very much with them
Hey! Thanks for watching over in Spain!
I’m not sure if the hp from this combo but it will provide more torque than a 1776 as this 2007 is a stroked 1776 engine.
A reliable daily driver isn’t so much the size as it is the total engine combo that’s put together correctly.
@@VWJawbreaker Ok. Torgue is good at low speed I believe. Keep doing these vids. God bless you
What were the symptoms that the engine had ? I have a low mileage 1776 with huge amount of blow by and oil coming out behind crank pulley.
The previous video covered those questions.
One question are the cylinder head studs the stock thicker ones?
That was several months back but if I remember correctly they were 10mm stock studs.
@@VWJawbreaker thanks for the info, i was thinking of using the 90.5 jugs with the 10mm studs, the biggest jugs i have used is only the 88 thickwalls i'm worried that opening up for the 90.5 jugs would hit the threads of the studs
@@bubot17 you should be fine with 90.5’s. It’s only an issue with 94mm jugs and 10mm studs.
@@VWJawbreaker thanks brother, the biggest pistons i have used is only the 88's 😊😊😊
Do you notice a big difference using a counterbalanced crank Gary? Are they worth the extra dollars? Just curious.
From what I see that’s really the only way they come now days. If they are manufactured properly they would definitely be better. Best thing to do is have the entire rotating assembly balanced of you can find someone to do it.
@@VWJawbreaker I used a brand new non-counterweighted crank, think it was NOS, but the whole rotating assembly got balanced together by the guy who did my align-bore. I just gave him the crank and bearing set along with the block and he made sure everything would fit and spin smoothly.
I erased my comment before i read youre response
Can’t remember what you commented.
@VWJawbreaker 🤣 ok doesn't matter, have a good night