I did the exact same thing with my wall mount chargers. There are numerous code violations and issues which some have already been mentioned with this installation. 1) The code for the pigtail applied to the charger is that it is limited to 12" total length from the charger so it will work but it should have been shortened. (The reason for the code is that the circuit protection is in the unit, not the breaker (like a GFCI) and the code writers did not want a long cord that could potentially be easily cut. The reason the cord to the car can be long is that the unit is supplying the circuit protection in front of that and ground fault protection to that cord if it is cut or damaged. 2) The waterproof gland mentioned but not installed should have been installed for mechanical strain relief. It's nice when it also makes it waterproof to keep bugs and moisture out. 3) Tesla gives a very explicit torque specs for the tightening of the conductors and this is important to ensure it doesn't loosen up from expansion/contraction cycles. The "German torque spec" of "GuudNTite" should only be used with lots of experience. The amount of tightening required is usually higher than most users think and a torque wrench should actually be used. 4) The neutral conductor should have also been cut off and wire capped. The wire cap is important but it could then be electrical taped so the cap doesn't back off. 5) The jacket probably should not have been extended through the wire tie but that actually looks OK if it will fit. Unfortunately without the gland, this now becomes the primary mechanical strain relief and the individual conductors can end up with differential tension and weight on them (especially with the long cord). With only three conductors wire tied, there would have been less of a chance of this and the strain would have been transferred to the waterproof gland (not installed). 6) The Tesla unit should be provisioned (with the cell phone app) so that it is specified for a 50 amp breaker which is the correct breaker for a NEMA 14-50 outlet. The range pigtail used was a 50 Amp unit so that was a good choice (by default, this is the case with a NEMA 14-50 pigtail cord with the plug manufactured on). Bottom line is that this unit will (at least initially) will work as shown but it isn't all that safe and is prone to bug infestation and broken wires due to poor strain relief. The probability is low that the feed wire would be cut with a shovel or something but if it ever is, the user is going to be surprised as their outlet becomes a welder! Be safe and use a competent electrician if in doubt! Am I too picky? Perhaps but I have to live in the house where my unit is installed and 50 amp wires with poor or strain weakened connections can cause big fires!
Excellent write up!!! I was scrolling throw the comments searching for a post like yours. People are doing these pigtail installs all the time now and don’t realize anything you mentioned. In the slight (not likely) chance a fire is started. I wonder what the insurance is going to say with all the code violations.
Thanks for writing this up. Watching the video and having worked with this stuff I could see these issues you described. Working with high power circuits is no joke. The fact that it looks to be working after connecting the wires doesn’t mean it will work after hundreds of hours of high power flowing trough. A mistake on a wire connection and your house will burn down in the middle of the night. Clickbait title on this video without letting watchers know how seriously this should be taken.
@brianbeasley7270 Thanks for the info. You also mentioned this on another yt video that you cut the power cord to 1ft coming from the wall connector. Since installing and cutting the power cord to meet codes. How is it so far? Do you live it plugin at all times?
@@michaelcrz1430 It worked fine for the entire time I used that setup. I made some wiring changes and when I did I converted over to hardwired on my wall unit. I did keep it plugged in at all times to prevent wear on the outlet. I still think it is a fine solution if there is a NEMA 14-50 outlet installed. If you have to install an entirely new circuit, I would probably now recommend just hardwire the Tesla unit.
Thank you for making this simple to follow! I debated going with a standard 240 outlet, but decided to just take the plunge and purchase the Wall Connector before delivery of our Model 3. Even though the initial 500 fee is steep, it really makes a difference and have no regrets.
You should have stripped the black cable jacket all the way down to the cable clamp in the bottom of the Tesla charger mount. This way the 4 cables are separate and can be easily bent and shaped into position without having to stretch them. Also you should cut the end off the white wire and cap this with a wire nut and electrical tape.
Doesn't the white wire go back to ground eventually in the breaker panel? I'm curious what the wire nut accomplished? Just a best practice or is there a functional purpose.
If the Tesla wall connector is wired directly to the main panel then technically yes the white neutral is tied to the bare copper ground wire in the main panel. If the wall connector is wired to a sub panel then no the neutral and ground are completely separated at the sub panel. Having said this. The neutral wire should never be thought of as just another ground or to serve the same function. The ground is used as a current carrying conductor only in a fault or emergency. The neutral wire is used as the reverse path of electricity in an AC circuit completing the circular path for power to flow. With a 240v system the neutral is not needed a reverse path for current to flow as a 240v system is using two bots (red and black) to conduct power.
That neutral wire just hanging there is super dangerous if it touches the hot wires. Also, the wall connector is suppose to be hardwired and against code to install it the way you did it. If you're going to go through this trouble, you might as well spend $50 more and swap out the breaker for a 60 amp breaker and run a 6 AWG wires and hardwire the thing like it's suppose to be done and get the full 48 amp charge capability. The wire run is already there for you to pull and the 14-50 junction box is already there to make the hardwired connection.
Have had this done for a few years now. It’s a great way to have the best of both world. Fast charging and ultimate flexibility if you ever want to change chargers or a friend comes with a non tesla EV. Great video.
One suggesion and often overlooked is to make sure you use a torque screwdriver and make sure its torqued properly. Drill is not the way to properly make sure its tight. Like other said in the post I would cut back the sheeting further so you don't have to jam the wires in there, and also clip off the white wire. Other than that cool install.
Hmmmm I already have a NEMA 14-50 in my garage. I was thinking that if I were to ever get a wall connector, I'd have to tear up the wall again but this video gives me another idea. Thanks! I was confused at first on why you were clipping off the connectors then I realized that it was a dryer cord which is a pretty awesome idea. This would get me from 32A -> 40A (or 29 mph -> 37 mph).
I had a wall charger installed a few months ago. Install was cheap but the wire and breaker were super expensive because of the supply shortages. My Model 3 LR was delivered last weekend so it was torture waiting to plug my car in for two months waiting for the car. Lol Well worth the money with the faster charging and makes my finished garage look great. When it lites up charging it looks beautiful. Lol
I know this came out a while back and I may have posted a comment... But I believe with my 160 mi commute up to four times a day the Tesla wall charger may be a better answer to charging at home. But something I do notice since this last winter and it's not quite over yet. The expense of charging goes up basically compared to fuel in the winter time. Because you lose a lot of energy because of temperature I do have to charge at a supercharger at least two times in a weekend. One trip to 80 mi on my commute to work and I was at almost 80% charge. I was completely down to 17%. Granted it was not a normal cold spell like north of us. I am from the Pacific Northwest and the cold spell came into single digits for a few days. It really tested my battery and charging. The expenses of course went up. Still not quite as high as fuel costs but those cold days were as equal. But my energy savings are tremendous because of less supercharging when the temperature gets above 35°.
Couple of things… As you alluded to you do need a fitting where the cable exits the base. Rather than the one you showed in the video a clamp would be required to provide strain relief for the cable. Also note that it’s generally against code to have a permanently mounted fixture connected by removable plug. I don’t really consider that a safety risk but just pointing out that it’s probably against code.
I'm currently running a chargepoint for my MY LR with an adapter permanently attached since my garage already has a NEMA 14-50 outlet and didn't want to go through the hassle of ripping it out for the Tesla wall charger. However after looking at this method, I may consider it in the future. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks Mr. Bearded Guy. I have also used the technique on various items. I don’t see a lot of advantage to this process. But what about mounting the wall connector to a piece of plywood with the pigtail. At that point you would have the same function as with yours, but you can attach the plywood with connector that are easy to remove. Then you have a portable wall connector. You then can simply unplug it and remove the plywood connector and take it with you. Could be a good advantage if you visit relatives with the appropriate electrical box to plug it into. I would also cut the white neutral white so you don’t have to deal with it. I’m in the process of getting a Model Y. The estimated delivery date is December 27 ish. I also purchased the wall connector. My only reservations is the WiFi connectivity. Not sure how that would affect my idea. Thanks again.
we got our second Tesla (Y 4wd) 15 months ago, that bumped model 3SR+ to be used only around town - M3 has ONLY been charged on its mobile connect on a 110v outlet since then - and never been a problem, and that was a lot less than $40
I bought an old series one mobile charger from a Tesla model S. It plugs into the wall outlet and charges at forty amps on my model 3 LR. I can unplug it and take it with me if needed, but instead I keep it plugged in all the time and keep the mobile charger that came with the car and harges at 32 amps in my frunk. This way I can use it and places that have 240-volt outlets or just use the 120 volt plug instead.
On mine, instead of completely cutting off the ring connectors on the dryer cable, I only cut off the rings, leaving the ‘crimp’ part to act as a ‘ferrule’. Second, after passing cable inside cabinet, I connected leads first, THEN dressed wires in… and yes, I removed more of the sheathing
One thing to notice is I believe the Tesla connector can support 60 amp, that means if anyone wants 60 amps output then the nema 14-50 won't work since it is limited to
This is a nice video on using a Tesla wall charger and adapting it to plug into an existing NEMA receptacle. This is a short cut to avoid having an electrician install a direct connection from the wall charger to the breaker box Now this can be hazardous when one is charging their Tesla many hours drawing 40-50 amps at 240 volts through plug and receptacle instead of a direct wired connection. Resistance can build up in between the plug and receptacle leading to IR^2 heating between the plug and receptable which can lead to melting the plug and receptable during a charging period. Most high current home appliances are electric stoves and dryers. Usually they are not operated very high current continuously for many hours. To be safe, occasionally, one should put their hand on the plug and check if it is getting warm or hot. If it is, the plug and receptable should be replaced to avoid a fire. One can also use an infrared temperature thermal gun to measure the surface temperature of the plug and check if it is getting warm after charging the Tesla for several hours. At home, I charge my Tesla Model 3 with my wall charger directly wired to the breaker box. I used AWG gauge #4 wires instead of 6 to minimize the chance of overheating wires or connections. This charges at 11.5 kw and yields 48 mile/hour.
@@BeardedTeslaGuy what cord did you purchase to then strip and plug directly into your dryer outlet? Did you just use the tesla nema 10-30 adapter and cut it?
Thank you! Your setup is exactly like mine. Down to the mobile charger, M3 SR+, and the low to the ground 14-50 plug. You just confirmed that I can use a 14-50 extension. Plus you showed me that my M3 SR+ only gets 32amp at 8kw, which is totally fine. I'd rather not melt my hardware.
Initially I liked this idea of using a stove cord with a 14-50 outlet. However, Tesla says in the installation manual *not* to do this, requiring a direct hard wire connection. For BTG’s garage setup it would not have been difficult to eliminate the 14-50 outlet and wire direct.
@@georgepelton5645I was going to say although his setup was fine, all he had to do was kill the breaker, open up and remove the NEMA plug, then pretty much wire it the same way and done
I do enjoy the Wall Connector for my LR AWD 3. My voltage I've noticed rarely hits 240. It's usually 234 - 238. But I went with a 100 amp line to future-proof it! #2 copper is no joke!
this is a good job but as an electrician i reccomend you wrap some electrical tape around your white wire because the wire could unbend and the metal part can touch the black and red cables. if that happens... no bueno
Perfect. Your one of my favorites, to come check out when it comes anything Tesla. Good job. I ordered my model Y long range. Can’t wait 😛. By the time I get it I’m gonna be a professional.
Tesla used to sell a Tesla plug in wall charger that used the NEMA 14-50 and was not hard wired. (2018) I bought one and lucky I did because for some reason they stopped selling them. I haven't seen them offered for sale since. Now if for some reason I leave I can take it with me.
even cheaper is buy a used Tesla Gen 1 charger from ebay for around $300. It does 40 amps with a NEMA 14-50 and plugs in. Cheaper and no wiring needed if you have the NEMA 14-50. And it is portable for trips.
First, you need to torque the wire connections to spec to prevent heat build up. Second, the wires when bundled in this cable are not rated for 50 amp continuous load (ampacity). Step it down to 40 amp max on wall charger setting so 32 amp max output. Unless your needs are greater, step it down to the minimum needed like 30 amp for 24 amp max to be safer if that works for your charging needs. You could have just used the plug outlet as a junction box and connect a 3/4" conduit (can be weather tight flex for simplicity) with 6 gauge THHN wire would be more secure. Use wire lugs in the junction box instead of wire nuts. Can use 8 gauge THHN if that is what is in the junction box already, just be sure to set the wall connector accordingly. Even if OK with 50 amp breaker and 8 gauge, I'd still step it down one as if 40 amp breaker in the wall connector setting if you don't really ned the full 50 amp to be extra safe. What you did is NOT safe in the long term if you are running at 50 amp breaker setting. Remember wires versus cables hav different ampacity. Be safe!
Never knew that the Tesla Wall Charger can just be plugged into the NEMA 14-50. The one I had installed in my home basically removed NEMA 14-50 and then used wires that used to be connected to. I have left a second NEMA 14-50 in my garage as is over replacing with Wall Charger in case I buy a different brand EV for my 2nd vehicle.
Unless I am mistaken, I did not observe you install the strain relief (Southwire Liquid-Tight Connector referenced in the description) at the base of the charger. The strain relief should have been threaded into the charger first, then the wires introduced through the access hole and then clamped to prevent wire strain and moisture penetration. Without the strain relief, you do not have a safe install of the charger. Also, as stated by others, you may want to snip off the connector of the unused common (white wire) and then dress the wire with electrical tape and a wire nut. Taking these steps should put you in compliance with NEC.
You should look into a smart splitter. it'll switch charging between vehicles once 1 is done it'll start charging the others. That way you can take full advantage of charging during OFF PEAK Hours and don't have to wake up in the middle of the night to swap the vehicles.
@@marvinedmond7661 yes sir. It comes with its own protection system. you can plug your drier and your Tesla and If you need to run the dryer it'll stop charging allow you dry your clothes then when it stops continuing charging your vehicle.
Electrical work at this level is nowhere near rocket science. As long as one is diligent and understands all the safety issues, self installation of plug-in install is cost effective. All for it.
@@BeardedTeslaGuy That's true. I got the JuiceBox before my electric company's rebate was eligible for any Tesla chargers, but if I could go back in time... haha
I have a LR MY. I had a 14-50 outlet installed in my garage and use the mobile connector. Getting 29 Miles per hour charge which is fast enough. I don’t see the point of purchasing the Wall Connector for incremental 7 miles per hour charge. Not worth the expense in my opinion.
My suggestion is to immediately throw away the driver bit Tesla provides. Just use a normal allen wrench. The Tesla bit with my installation snapped in two when tightening the wire connections. Having tight connections is critical. Loose connections will cause overheating of the wiring, tripped breakers etc. I ended up having to order a whole new backplate and reinstalling since the tip of the bit was thoroughly "stuck". Its a cheap bit...which is why they give them away....but a costly one for me.
this is awesome. im hesitant to install a charger in my house because the damn circuit breaker is on the opposite side of the house from where the garage is...
I'm not sure if this is an advisable way. Although I'm not an electrician, I can see it is potentially unsafe because the wall connector's wire sockets are for solid core wires, and they should be torqued to specification so the wires are tight but at the same time not deformed to increase resistance. The plug wires are stranded so they will not stay tight at the specified torque (maybe not in this type of socket designed for solid wires at all).
I had an electrician add a NEMA 14-50 outlet in the garage and I wired in the cord to my GEN 2 Wall connector. Has been working great for the past 4 years. As others noted, you should cut the end of the neutral (white) wire and electrical tape it since the wire goes to your panel via the outlet. The white wire will never be used so better to lop it off for safety's sake. You also may want to verify that you torqued the wire connector bolts to the torque specified in the manual to prevent possible arcing and overheating if wires come loose.
I think with the gas car ban stuff going here in California, it's now going to be code that all houses must have Nema 14-50 outlets installed on the walls of the garages.
A much simpler and cheaper solution would be to buy a non-Tesla charger. There are many high quality chargers that already have a NEMA 14-50 plug built right in. With that setup, you just plug the charger into the wall outlet and use your J-1772 adapter. This is what I use for my Tesla, and it has the extra benefit of being able to charge other EVs as well. The only thing you give up is the Tesla "look". Why Tesla does not offer a model with built in NEMA 14-50 plug, I'll never understand.
Pretty sure code allows 14-50 on a 60 amp breaker using 6/3 romex , GFCI required for garages though where there is a plug but not if the device is hardwired and has GFCI built in.
I'm not crapping on this idea...I love it. But please tell me you bought specifically an oven connector and not a dryer one. The oven one is rated to handle 50 amps, whereas the dryer one is only 30. This is a fairly common cause of fires.
@@BeardedTeslaGuy i know this is old but this is for others who see this post today. your practice is dangerous. wall charger can pull 48amp; electric code for EV charger is the outlet and fuse must only use 80% of rated amp because it is continuous load. for wall charger, your outlet and fuse must be 60amp.
New Subscriber. Very nice Mr. bearded guy, love your content! Do you recommend removing the label on side of charger showing your WiFi QR code to prevent someone stealing your unit and be able to commission it? ESP if the unit is install outdoor?
Well done video, my suggestion would have been you probably could have put in a second 14-50 outlet for less, especially since your panel is right there. Granted, this would require space in your panel and the necessary bandwidth of roughly 100 amps being pulled at any one time (if you chose to charge them at the same time)
@@BeardedTeslaGuy No worries man. Another suggestion. If it is literally a room situation and not a amp-bandwidth thing, you can use a few tandem breakers to get more room on the panel. If you are limited by your service though (less than 200 amp service) then obviously nothing can be done outside of a full electrical upgrade.
@@BeardedTeslaGuy Sometimes you can double up on the breakers, by that I mean you can get double breakers that fit in a single space on your panel or sub panel. So of course it's not something most homeowners want to do or should do. But that might be a solution if it could work out for you and saves putting in another sub panel or a larger sub panel replacing the existing. Not sure if this is something that would help your situation or not. Just throwing it out there and something to talk to an electrician about.
If you have a large enough electrical panel i.e. 200 amp and available circuit breaker circuits I think you could probably install another breaker and run the necessary wiring and another wall receptacle and you could possibly charge both of your cars at the same time. If the charging cables are long enough that should work or when you run your second circuit you could put it on the opposite side of the garage which would require a shorter length of charging cable. Just some thoughts that you could discuss with your local electrician?????
The comment here is valid. You could swap the breaker and wiring your 14h-50 outlet is on for a larger guage wire and breaker to a new, small sub-panel (say 8 slot, 125a). That sub panel is then capable of supporting two 50a circuits off of it.
That’s exactly what I was thinking of and looking for someone to show us ! Excellent job ! Great thinking how long of a wire we can use does it matter if long wire is needed ?
It is becoming apparent that the 14-50 outlets being used for dryers and ranges are not adequate for the continuous loads of an EV charger and many cases of overheating and melting. Also with code changes, many areas now require and soon probably all will require a gfci breaker. A more expensive, commercial grade outlet and gfci breaker and a 40 amp max limit, it is probably better and cheaper to do a hardwire installation.
Now I am not an electrician however I had a friend in a electric car group have this plug receptacle recently melt. Comments obviously went off, charging at such a high rate creates tons of heat for over hours. Those receptacles like the one you have are made for appliances that draw power for a few hours at a time not charging for up to 5-7 hours. There is a industrial nema Hubbell part number HB9450A just thinking of you and your family.
I completely forgot a dryer is usually 240 volts ! But the neutral wire does carry voltage .. super dangerous leaving it bare . It can cause a short and burn your house down .
Great video but $40 upgrade ( title of the video a little click bate-ish) really isn’t $40 as you need to buy the wall connector box and cover which runs, in Canada, $155. Regardless, well worth it for 8 more amps of charging! Thanks
You just changed the breaker to a 50 amp breaker. Did you have 6 guage wire on it???? If not you can cause a fire. 50 amps on a 8 guage wire or smaller cable could be alot of stress to the wire and melt
This was set up with 6 gauge wire from the get go to future proof the setup. A 14-50 will pull 40 amps at the charger in this config so there's no issue there either.
Get an electrician to certify that (don’t do this at home) and just because the hardware is rated for a certain amperage I wouldn’t run that above 21 unless you want a garage and 2 Tesla fire.
Why does the owner's manual state "Hardwire branch circuits to disconnects or circuit breakers. Do NOT install cord-and-plug type"? Just wanted to make sure this method is safe.
Need to install a 60 amp breaker and NEMA 6-50 outlet for my wife’s kiln. Do you know if I can wire the Gen 3 Tesla wall charger using a NEMA 6-50 pigtail/plug? My wife only uses the kiln once or twice a month and trying to save some money and not have to install a separate NEMA 6-50 plug for the kiln and a separate 50 amp or 60 amp breaker and electric cable to hardwire the Gen 3 Tesla wall charger. Great video, thanks…
Just ordered my model Y GREAT info Thx one question, I have a 50 amp cord going from my circuit breaker to the garage will that work or do I need to replace it with a 60 amp cord?
One potential problem I see, depending on the local code in the jurisdiction, is GFCI requirement. GFCI would be required for NEMA receptacles under recent versions of NEC. OTOH Tesla Wall Connector is a GFCI device by itself and therefore should not be connected to a circuit with existing GFCI protection. This can cause nuisance trips in newer and/or recently renovated homes.
I might have missed it, but I did not see BTG setting up the wall connector for a 50 A circuit (40 A charge rate). This is an important step. Be sure to read Tesla’s installation manual.
Not bad. You do get higher charging capabilities with the Tesla wall charger...BUT, if you wanted to split the outlet you could have gotten a NeoCharge outlet box. It plus into the NEMA 14 outlet then you plug each of your Tesla chargers into it and it's smart enough to balance the charging for you throughout the night for both cars. Now, it would be a good idea what that type of setup to then have two travel chargers for your cars that stay in the trynk/frunk at all times and two more that stay connected to the NeoCharge charger.
excellent, smart! I've got NEMA 10-30 outlet, I imagine same can be done, just with a 10-30 cord instead. Envision any issue with that? Looks like wall connector can go on various breaker levels, not just 40 AMP. TIA
I see people mentioning the $500 price for the charger. Check to see if your city or electric company offers a rebate. I live in Roseville, CA and they offer up to $500 rebate towards a home charger.
@@ELCEV I am also fortunate that my father in law is an electrician. Although the city never required me to send them anything on that. All I submitted was the form and receipt for the wall charger.
You just saved me $300, not having to pay an electrician to do this 1 hr job. You're the best!
Cheers
I did the exact same thing with my wall mount chargers. There are numerous code violations and issues which some have already been mentioned with this installation.
1) The code for the pigtail applied to the charger is that it is limited to 12" total length from the charger so it will work but it should have been shortened. (The reason for the code is that the circuit protection is in the unit, not the breaker (like a GFCI) and the code writers did not want a long cord that could potentially be easily cut. The reason the cord to the car can be long is that the unit is supplying the circuit protection in front of that and ground fault protection to that cord if it is cut or damaged.
2) The waterproof gland mentioned but not installed should have been installed for mechanical strain relief. It's nice when it also makes it waterproof to keep bugs and moisture out.
3) Tesla gives a very explicit torque specs for the tightening of the conductors and this is important to ensure it doesn't loosen up from expansion/contraction cycles. The "German torque spec" of "GuudNTite" should only be used with lots of experience. The amount of tightening required is usually higher than most users think and a torque wrench should actually be used.
4) The neutral conductor should have also been cut off and wire capped. The wire cap is important but it could then be electrical taped so the cap doesn't back off.
5) The jacket probably should not have been extended through the wire tie but that actually looks OK if it will fit. Unfortunately without the gland, this now becomes the primary mechanical strain relief and the individual conductors can end up with differential tension and weight on them (especially with the long cord). With only three conductors wire tied, there would have been less of a chance of this and the strain would have been transferred to the waterproof gland (not installed).
6) The Tesla unit should be provisioned (with the cell phone app) so that it is specified for a 50 amp breaker which is the correct breaker for a NEMA 14-50 outlet. The range pigtail used was a 50 Amp unit so that was a good choice (by default, this is the case with a NEMA 14-50 pigtail cord with the plug manufactured on).
Bottom line is that this unit will (at least initially) will work as shown but it isn't all that safe and is prone to bug infestation and broken wires due to poor strain relief. The probability is low that the feed wire would be cut with a shovel or something but if it ever is, the user is going to be surprised as their outlet becomes a welder!
Be safe and use a competent electrician if in doubt! Am I too picky? Perhaps but I have to live in the house where my unit is installed and 50 amp wires with poor or strain weakened connections can cause big fires!
Thanks for sharing.
Excellent write up!!! I was scrolling throw the comments searching for a post like yours.
People are doing these pigtail installs all the time now and don’t realize anything you mentioned.
In the slight (not likely) chance a fire is started. I wonder what the insurance is going to say with all the code violations.
Thanks for writing this up. Watching the video and having worked with this stuff I could see these issues you described. Working with high power circuits is no joke. The fact that it looks to be working after connecting the wires doesn’t mean it will work after hundreds of hours of high power flowing trough. A mistake on a wire connection and your house will burn down in the middle of the night. Clickbait title on this video without letting watchers know how seriously this should be taken.
@brianbeasley7270 Thanks for the info. You also mentioned this on another yt video that you cut the power cord to 1ft coming from the wall connector. Since installing and cutting the power cord to meet codes. How is it so far? Do you live it plugin at all times?
@@michaelcrz1430 It worked fine for the entire time I used that setup. I made some wiring changes and when I did I converted over to hardwired on my wall unit. I did keep it plugged in at all times to prevent wear on the outlet. I still think it is a fine solution if there is a NEMA 14-50 outlet installed. If you have to install an entirely new circuit, I would probably now recommend just hardwire the Tesla unit.
Thank you for making this simple to follow! I debated going with a standard 240 outlet, but decided to just take the plunge and purchase the Wall Connector before delivery of our Model 3. Even though the initial 500 fee is steep, it really makes a difference and have no regrets.
Yea
Cool idea. I’m no electrician but I’d put electrical tape on the white wire exposed connector. To be safe.
Indeed
Yes. It should be cut off and covered with a large wire nut.
@@robertsanz1221 Exactly correct. No electrical tape, but a wire nut, with all exposed copper covered.
Or a few layers of heat shrink....
Fun Fact... it`s 1 socket for everything in my country 240 volts 3 pins and no chance of electric shock from the pins..:):)
This is a good solution as you can take the wall connector with you easily when you move home. Thanks for the video.
You should have stripped the black cable jacket all the way down to the cable clamp in the bottom of the Tesla charger mount. This way the 4 cables are separate and can be easily bent and shaped into position without having to stretch them.
Also you should cut the end off the white wire and cap this with a wire nut and electrical tape.
Yea good input thanks
Doesn't the white wire go back to ground eventually in the breaker panel? I'm curious what the wire nut accomplished? Just a best practice or is there a functional purpose.
If the Tesla wall connector is wired directly to the main panel then technically yes the white neutral is tied to the bare copper ground wire in the main panel. If the wall connector is wired to a sub panel then no the neutral and ground are completely separated at the sub panel.
Having said this. The neutral wire should never be thought of as just another ground or to serve the same function. The ground is used as a current carrying conductor only in a fault or emergency. The neutral wire is used as the reverse path of electricity in an AC circuit completing the circular path for power to flow.
With a 240v system the neutral is not needed a reverse path for current to flow as a 240v system is using two bots (red and black) to conduct power.
Should I also cap off the white wire in the 14-50 outlet and at the circuit breaker box as well? Thanks!
Where is the power cable strain relief? You are in violation of the NEC!
That neutral wire just hanging there is super dangerous if it touches the hot wires. Also, the wall connector is suppose to be hardwired and against code to install it the way you did it. If you're going to go through this trouble, you might as well spend $50 more and swap out the breaker for a 60 amp breaker and run a 6 AWG wires and hardwire the thing like it's suppose to be done and get the full 48 amp charge capability. The wire run is already there for you to pull and the 14-50 junction box is already there to make the hardwired connection.
Smart and more versatile way to use the wall charger! Thank you for sharing this!!
Cheers
Have had this done for a few years now. It’s a great way to have the best of both world. Fast charging and ultimate flexibility if you ever want to change chargers or a friend comes with a non tesla EV. Great video.
Cheers
Same to you! Great channel!
One suggesion and often overlooked is to make sure you use a torque screwdriver and make sure its torqued properly. Drill is not the way to properly make sure its tight. Like other said in the post I would cut back the sheeting further so you don't have to jam the wires in there, and also clip off the white wire. Other than that cool install.
I ended up doing all of that when I added the gasket at the bottom. Much cleaner install now
Hmmmm I already have a NEMA 14-50 in my garage. I was thinking that if I were to ever get a wall connector, I'd have to tear up the wall again but this video gives me another idea. Thanks! I was confused at first on why you were clipping off the connectors then I realized that it was a dryer cord which is a pretty awesome idea. This would get me from 32A -> 40A (or 29 mph -> 37 mph).
Thats exactly right! And since you already have the outlet, no electrician needed!
I had a wall charger installed a few months ago. Install was cheap but the wire and breaker were super expensive because of the supply shortages. My Model 3 LR was delivered last weekend so it was torture waiting to plug my car in for two months waiting for the car. Lol Well worth the money with the faster charging and makes my finished garage look great. When it lites up charging it looks beautiful. Lol
Agreed
I know this came out a while back and I may have posted a comment... But I believe with my 160 mi commute up to four times a day the Tesla wall charger may be a better answer to charging at home. But something I do notice since this last winter and it's not quite over yet. The expense of charging goes up basically compared to fuel in the winter time. Because you lose a lot of energy because of temperature I do have to charge at a supercharger at least two times in a weekend. One trip to 80 mi on my commute to work and I was at almost 80% charge. I was completely down to 17%. Granted it was not a normal cold spell like north of us. I am from the Pacific Northwest and the cold spell came into single digits for a few days. It really tested my battery and charging. The expenses of course went up. Still not quite as high as fuel costs but those cold days were as equal. But my energy savings are tremendous because of less supercharging when the temperature gets above 35°.
Yea, just like when using winter grade gas is less efficient, so is running a heat pump
Couple of things… As you alluded to you do need a fitting where the cable exits the base. Rather than the one you showed in the video a clamp would be required to provide strain relief for the cable. Also note that it’s generally against code to have a permanently mounted fixture connected by removable plug. I don’t really consider that a safety risk but just pointing out that it’s probably against code.
Indeed. “Do not try this at home”
I'm currently running a chargepoint for my MY LR with an adapter permanently attached since my garage already has a NEMA 14-50 outlet and didn't want to go through the hassle of ripping it out for the Tesla wall charger. However after looking at this method, I may consider it in the future. Thanks for the vid!
Cheers
There was a short time when Tesla sold wall connectors with an nema 14-50 plug pre-installed
@@AndrewJamison79 I wish that I had purchased one of those!
@@mitchellbarnow1709 yeah only saw them for like a few months then they kind of disappeared but at one point short though it may be they existed
Thanks Mr. Bearded Guy. I have also used the technique on various items. I don’t see a lot of advantage to this process. But what about mounting the wall connector to a piece of plywood with the pigtail. At that point you would have the same function as with yours, but you can attach the plywood with connector that are easy to remove. Then you have a portable wall connector. You then can simply unplug it and remove the plywood connector and take it with you. Could be a good advantage if you visit relatives with the appropriate electrical box to plug it into. I would also cut the white neutral white so you don’t have to deal with it. I’m in the process of getting a Model Y. The estimated delivery date is December 27 ish. I also purchased the wall connector. My only reservations is the WiFi connectivity. Not sure how that would affect my idea. Thanks again.
cheers
we got our second Tesla (Y 4wd) 15 months ago, that bumped model 3SR+ to be used only around town - M3 has ONLY been charged on its mobile connect on a 110v outlet since then - and never been a problem, and that was a lot less than $40
We did the same with our LR Y for a year and a half with no issue
I bought an old series one mobile charger from a Tesla model S. It plugs into the wall outlet and charges at forty amps on my model 3 LR.
I can unplug it and take it with me if needed, but instead I keep it plugged in all the time and keep the mobile charger that came with the car and harges at 32 amps in my frunk. This way I can use it and places that have 240-volt outlets or just use the 120 volt plug instead.
Yea those gen 1 chargers were great
On mine, instead of completely cutting off the ring connectors on the dryer cable, I only cut off the rings, leaving the ‘crimp’ part to act as a ‘ferrule’.
Second, after passing cable inside cabinet, I connected leads first, THEN dressed wires in… and yes, I removed more of the sheathing
Thanks for sharing
One thing to notice is I believe the Tesla connector can support 60 amp, that means if anyone wants 60 amps output then the nema 14-50 won't work since it is limited to
Yea, that’s right. 50 amps, meaning 40 to the car vs the full 60 amps or 48 to the car if straight wired
Man this was so easy!!! I ended up splicing a extension cable and plug it to my old dryer port. Worked perfectly!!! Thank you so much for the idea!!!
cheers
This is a nice video on using a Tesla wall charger and adapting it to
plug into an existing NEMA receptacle. This is a short cut to avoid
having an electrician install a direct connection from the
wall charger to the breaker box
Now this can be hazardous when one is charging their Tesla many
hours drawing 40-50 amps at 240 volts through plug and receptacle
instead of a direct wired connection. Resistance can build up in
between the plug and receptacle leading to IR^2 heating between
the plug and receptable which can lead to melting the plug and
receptable during a charging period. Most high current home
appliances are electric stoves and dryers. Usually they are not
operated very high current continuously for many hours.
To be safe, occasionally, one should put their hand on the plug
and check if it is getting warm or hot. If it is, the plug and
receptable should be replaced to avoid a fire.
One can also use an infrared temperature thermal gun to
measure the surface temperature of the plug and check if it
is getting warm after charging the Tesla for several hours.
At home, I charge my Tesla Model 3 with my wall charger directly
wired to the breaker box. I used AWG gauge #4 wires instead of 6 to
minimize the chance of overheating wires or connections. This
charges at 11.5 kw and yields 48 mile/hour.
There are always better ways to do it. This worked perfect for us for a year and a half
*It’s the $500 price tag that gets me. But it looks sweet!* 🚘⚡️
Yea me too…
Check out that lovely federal tax credit - should get around $165 or so off.
@@MarkStatkus True.
@@MarkStatkus I file for rebate 3 months ago. Never heard from them 😡
Thanks for doing this video, just did the same thing today and it worked like a charm!
Glad it helped!
@@BeardedTeslaGuy what cord did you purchase to then strip and plug directly into your dryer outlet? Did you just use the tesla nema 10-30 adapter and cut it?
I use the 14-50 outlet and adapter, it work fine and doesn’t cost $500!
Worked well for me for a year and a half
Thank you! Your setup is exactly like mine. Down to the mobile charger, M3 SR+, and the low to the ground 14-50 plug. You just confirmed that I can use a 14-50 extension. Plus you showed me that my M3 SR+ only gets 32amp at 8kw, which is totally fine. I'd rather not melt my hardware.
Cheers
Initially I liked this idea of using a stove cord with a 14-50 outlet. However, Tesla says in the installation manual *not* to do this, requiring a direct hard wire connection. For BTG’s garage setup it would not have been difficult to eliminate the 14-50 outlet and wire direct.
@@georgepelton5645 good to know. I will likely move soon and when I do, I'll wire it correctly without the 14-50 plug.
@@georgepelton5645I was going to say although his setup was fine, all he had to do was kill the breaker, open up and remove the NEMA plug, then pretty much wire it the same way and done
I do enjoy the Wall Connector for my LR AWD 3. My voltage I've noticed rarely hits 240. It's usually 234 - 238. But I went with a 100 amp line to future-proof it! #2 copper is no joke!
>220 nothing to do
Super expensive lol
Thanks I installed my wall connector following your method.
It’s still working great over here.
this is a good job but as an electrician i reccomend you wrap some electrical tape around your white wire because the wire could unbend and the metal part can touch the black and red cables. if that happens... no bueno
yea, should cover the white wire
We have two Model Y LR and share 1 mobile connector. No issues. Save the money.
The mobile connector is sufficient for most people honestly
I was concerned with charging 2 cars alternatively on one charger, but it sounds like it's very doable. Thanks
@@marvinedmond7661 it’s about just identifying your needs. It can be done and in my home is.
This is super cool! I’m going to try this as well! I had no idea.
Same over here. I thought it was cool
Perfect. Your one of my favorites, to come check out when it comes anything Tesla. Good job. I ordered my model Y long range. Can’t wait 😛. By the time I get it I’m gonna be a professional.
so awesome, congrats!
Tesla used to sell a Tesla plug in wall charger that used the NEMA 14-50 and was not hard wired. (2018) I bought one and lucky I did because for some reason they stopped selling them. I haven't seen them offered for sale since. Now if for some reason I leave I can take it with me.
Yea I wish they still offered it
My mobil connector Nima 14/50 has been plugged in since end of 2017. No issues.
Yea, worked great for us for a year and a half
Nice! I never would have thought to do this.
Cheers
This is brilliant!! thank you for the dryer wire tip.
It works and saves a ton
even cheaper is buy a used Tesla Gen 1 charger from ebay for around $300. It does 40 amps with a NEMA 14-50 and plugs in. Cheaper and no wiring needed if you have the NEMA 14-50. And it is portable for trips.
Man, I’ve not seen a good deal on a used one
There are a bunch of deals on eBay for sure.
First, you need to torque the wire connections to spec to prevent heat build up. Second, the wires when bundled in this cable are not rated for 50 amp continuous load (ampacity). Step it down to 40 amp max on wall charger setting so 32 amp max output. Unless your needs are greater, step it down to the minimum needed like 30 amp for 24 amp max to be safer if that works for your charging needs. You could have just used the plug outlet as a junction box and connect a 3/4" conduit (can be weather tight flex for simplicity) with 6 gauge THHN wire would be more secure. Use wire lugs in the junction box instead of wire nuts. Can use 8 gauge THHN if that is what is in the junction box already, just be sure to set the wall connector accordingly. Even if OK with 50 amp breaker and 8 gauge, I'd still step it down one as if 40 amp breaker in the wall connector setting if you don't really ned the full 50 amp to be extra safe. What you did is NOT safe in the long term if you are running at 50 amp breaker setting. Remember wires versus cables hav different ampacity. Be safe!
Never knew that the Tesla Wall Charger can just be plugged into the NEMA 14-50. The one I had installed in my home basically removed NEMA 14-50 and then used wires that used to be connected to. I have left a second NEMA 14-50 in my garage as is over replacing with Wall Charger in case I buy a different brand EV for my 2nd vehicle.
Yea pretty simple actually
Unless I am mistaken, I did not observe you install the strain relief (Southwire Liquid-Tight Connector referenced in the description) at the base of the charger. The strain relief should have been threaded into the charger first, then the wires introduced through the access hole and then clamped to prevent wire strain and moisture penetration. Without the strain relief, you do not have a safe install of the charger. Also, as stated by others, you may want to snip off the connector of the unused common (white wire) and then dress the wire with electrical tape and a wire nut. Taking these steps should put you in compliance with NEC.
Yea, I mentioned that in the video. I have it installed, just didn’t have it at the time of filming.
shorten the dryer line as much as you can and you'll get better voltage!
Thanks for the tip
You don't need an electrician to install a wall charger! It is Soo incredibly easy!
Yep, just know your limits with this kind of stuff
Lol. I figured this would be pretty humorous. Luckily you have such a short run from the panel or you may run into some hot wires
It’s a great location
When I saw the wasp over your head I dunked for cover lol
Lol
You should look into a smart splitter. it'll switch charging between vehicles once 1 is done it'll start charging the others. That way you can take full advantage of charging during OFF PEAK Hours and don't have to wake up in the middle of the night to swap the vehicles.
Yea, things are simpler here. Same rate all day
Smart splitter? So there's something out there that will allow me to connect 2 cars to one 14-50 outlet. Is that safe?
@@marvinedmond7661 yes sir. It comes with its own protection system. you can plug your drier and your Tesla and If you need to run the dryer it'll stop charging allow you dry your clothes then when it stops continuing charging your vehicle.
@@marvinedmond7661 ua-cam.com/video/USBqu5klTMo/v-deo.html
@@jonathanjurena 🤯 thanks dude
That's how my wall connector is installed
Smart
I would suggest insulating the lug on the white neutral wire rather than leave it exposed.
Cheers
Electrical work at this level is nowhere near rocket science. As long as one is diligent and understands all the safety issues, self installation of plug-in install is cost effective. All for it.
Agreed
Don't quote me, but I believe that if you install a second wall connector, that will spilt the power used on a single 50A breaker.
Yes, and they can communicate with each other from my understanding.
Great video. I have a JuiceBox 40 charger for my model 3 but considering setting up a wall connector now.
Can’t go wrong either way really. Just simpler with the Tesla connector I guess
@@BeardedTeslaGuy That's true. I got the JuiceBox before my electric company's rebate was eligible for any Tesla chargers, but if I could go back in time... haha
I have a LR MY. I had a 14-50 outlet installed in my garage and use the mobile connector. Getting 29 Miles per hour charge which is fast enough. I don’t see the point of purchasing the Wall Connector for incremental 7 miles per hour charge. Not worth the expense in my opinion.
Yea, mobile connector is plenty sufficient. The wall connector will just be more durable over a long period of time
I figure for Cybertruck I am going to want full 60 amp setup, that battery hog the incremental will be nice.
6 miles def isn't enough but the other positive is that if you move, you can take the super charger with you.
Agreed. And the durability of this over the mobile connector
Thanks, well done, sure looks easy.
Cheers
My suggestion is to immediately throw away the driver bit Tesla provides. Just use a normal allen wrench. The Tesla bit with my installation snapped in two when tightening the wire connections. Having tight connections is critical. Loose connections will cause overheating of the wiring, tripped breakers etc. I ended up having to order a whole new backplate and reinstalling since the tip of the bit was thoroughly "stuck". Its a cheap bit...which is why they give them away....but a costly one for me.
Yea that bit also can strip out the bolts pretty easily
this is awesome. im hesitant to install a charger in my house because the damn circuit breaker is on the opposite side of the house from where the garage is...
Yea that’s a bummer for sure
Good video. Might want to uninstall and install cable restrainer.
Did after the video
I'm not sure if this is an advisable way. Although I'm not an electrician, I can see it is potentially unsafe because the wall connector's wire sockets are for solid core wires, and they should be torqued to specification so the wires are tight but at the same time not deformed to increase resistance. The plug wires are stranded so they will not stay tight at the specified torque (maybe not in this type of socket designed for solid wires at all).
Great video makes want to order the wall charger👀👍🏽🙏🏾
Cheers
I had an electrician add a NEMA 14-50 outlet in the garage and I wired in the cord to my GEN 2 Wall connector. Has been working great for the past 4 years. As others noted, you should cut the end of the neutral (white) wire and electrical tape it since the wire goes to your panel via the outlet. The white wire will never be used so better to lop it off for safety's sake. You also may want to verify that you torqued the wire connector bolts to the torque specified in the manual to prevent possible arcing and overheating if wires come loose.
Thanks for sharing!
I think with the gas car ban stuff going here in California, it's now going to be code that all houses must have Nema 14-50 outlets installed on the walls of the garages.
Awesome information.
Glad it was helpful!
Video starts at 4:42. You're welcome.
A much simpler and cheaper solution would be to buy a non-Tesla charger. There are many high quality chargers that already have a NEMA 14-50 plug built right in. With that setup, you just plug the charger into the wall outlet and use your J-1772 adapter. This is what I use for my Tesla, and it has the extra benefit of being able to charge other EVs as well. The only thing you give up is the Tesla "look". Why Tesla does not offer a model with built in NEMA 14-50 plug, I'll never understand.
The used to have one with built in 14-50 but discontinued it at some point
Hi, which non Tesla charger you recommend ? Thanks
Great tutorial. Great beard.
Cheers
super helpful, thank you!
Cheers
Pretty sure code allows 14-50 on a 60 amp breaker using 6/3 romex , GFCI required for garages though where there is a plug but not if the device is hardwired and has GFCI built in.
I am not an electrician, and you should not do what I did, but this is what I did without issue
Finally made it to the video :)
Good! Friday’s video will be a good update on taxes
@@BeardedTeslaGuy can’t wait !!
I'm not crapping on this idea...I love it. But please tell me you bought specifically an oven connector and not a dryer one. The oven one is rated to handle 50 amps, whereas the dryer one is only 30. This is a fairly common cause of fires.
It’s 50 amp rated
@@BeardedTeslaGuy I got called out on that once, so I wanted to make sure it didn't cause any catastrophic issues for ya.
@@BeardedTeslaGuy i know this is old but this is for others who see this post today. your practice is dangerous. wall charger can pull 48amp; electric code for EV charger is the outlet and fuse must only use 80% of rated amp because it is continuous load. for wall charger, your outlet and fuse must be 60amp.
Electrical contractor here and you cannot use this setup for 60A as you said. you need #4s for 60A install
I have this set up as a 50 amp, not sure if I misspoke somewhere or if you misheard
New Subscriber. Very nice Mr. bearded guy, love your content! Do you recommend removing the label on side of charger showing your WiFi QR code to prevent someone stealing your unit and be able to commission it? ESP if the unit is install outdoor?
No because the sticker you need is in the setup packet. The one on the side is different
@@BeardedTeslaGuy good to know Bro! Thank you👍
Great video I will be doing the same thing thanks
Cheers
Well done video, my suggestion would have been you probably could have put in a second 14-50 outlet for less, especially since your panel is right there. Granted, this would require space in your panel and the necessary bandwidth of roughly 100 amps being pulled at any one time (if you chose to charge them at the same time)
No more room I. The panel unfortunately. Otherwise I would have done that for sure
@@BeardedTeslaGuy No worries man. Another suggestion. If it is literally a room situation and not a amp-bandwidth thing, you can use a few tandem breakers to get more room on the panel. If you are limited by your service though (less than 200 amp service) then obviously nothing can be done outside of a full electrical upgrade.
@@BeardedTeslaGuy Sometimes you can double up on the breakers, by that I mean you can get double breakers that fit in a single space on your panel or sub panel. So of course it's not something most homeowners want to do or should do. But that might be a solution if it could work out for you and saves putting in another sub panel or a larger sub panel replacing the existing. Not sure if this is something that would help your situation or not. Just throwing it out there and something to talk to an electrician about.
Awesome video
Cheers
If you have a large enough electrical panel i.e. 200 amp and available circuit breaker circuits I think you could probably install another breaker and run the necessary wiring and another wall receptacle and you could possibly charge both of your cars at the same time. If the charging cables are long enough that should work or when you run your second circuit you could put it on the opposite side of the garage which would require a shorter length of charging cable.
Just some thoughts that you could discuss with your local electrician?????
I don't have another panel slot available unfortunately
The comment here is valid. You could swap the breaker and wiring your 14h-50 outlet is on for a larger guage wire and breaker to a new, small sub-panel (say 8 slot, 125a). That sub panel is then capable of supporting two 50a circuits off of it.
That’s exactly what I was thinking of and looking for someone to show us ! Excellent job ! Great thinking how long of a wire we can use does it matter if long wire is needed ?
Doesn't matter how long per say, it just looses speed the longer it is.
It is becoming apparent that the 14-50 outlets being used for dryers and ranges are not adequate for the continuous loads of an EV charger and many cases of overheating and melting. Also with code changes, many areas now require and soon probably all will require a gfci breaker. A more expensive, commercial grade outlet and gfci breaker and a 40 amp max limit, it is probably better and cheaper to do a hardwire installation.
Yea, hardwire will be the best option where possible
Thanks for the video... Question, How long is that cable that came with It you installed with to the outlet?
Now I am not an electrician however I had a friend in a electric car group have this plug receptacle recently melt. Comments obviously went off, charging at such a high rate creates tons of heat for over hours. Those receptacles like the one you have are made for appliances that draw power for a few hours at a time not charging for up to 5-7 hours. There is a industrial nema Hubbell part number HB9450A just thinking of you and your family.
This one is rated at 50 amps
I completely forgot a dryer is usually 240 volts !
But the neutral wire does carry voltage .. super dangerous leaving it bare .
It can cause a short and burn your house down .
Great video but $40 upgrade ( title of the video a little click bate-ish) really isn’t $40 as you need to buy the wall connector box and cover which runs, in Canada, $155. Regardless, well worth it for 8 more amps of charging! Thanks
What does the white wire do? BTW - thank you for the video.
It’s the neutral.
Got the same setup so I can use the 1450 outlet for other stuff when not charging. I can charge at 48 amps but the cable gets warm so I lower it to 40
Don't put that much power through that cable, it is rated for 50 amps, not 60
How come you don't show how to put in the terminal protector?
I didn’t have it at the time I filmed. It was an oversight on my part
Excellent!
Thank you! Cheers!
You just changed the breaker to a 50 amp breaker. Did you have 6 guage wire on it???? If not you can cause a fire. 50 amps on a 8 guage wire or smaller cable could be alot of stress to the wire and melt
This was set up with 6 gauge wire from the get go to future proof the setup. A 14-50 will pull 40 amps at the charger in this config so there's no issue there either.
@BeardedTeslaGuy your good then. Just wanted to make sure
Very Nice!
Cheers
Nice info. Is your panel 100amp service?
200
Why wouldn’t you cap off the white lead to prevent any potential internal contact?
You should cap it off
Get an electrician to certify that (don’t do this at home) and just because the hardware is rated for a certain amperage I wouldn’t run that above 21 unless you want a garage and 2 Tesla fire.
for me its a no-brainer. get the 14-50 instead of the tesla wall connector cuz what if i decide to park my oven or dryer in the garage instead?
That’s what we did successfully for over a year
Why does the owner's manual state "Hardwire branch circuits to disconnects or circuit breakers. Do NOT install cord-and-plug type"? Just wanted to make sure this method is safe.
Because according to code and safety hardwiring would be the way to go
Need to install a 60 amp breaker and NEMA 6-50 outlet for my wife’s kiln. Do you know if I can wire the Gen 3 Tesla wall charger using a NEMA 6-50 pigtail/plug? My wife only uses the kiln once or twice a month and trying to save some money and not have to install a separate NEMA 6-50 plug for the kiln and a separate 50 amp or 60 amp breaker and electric cable to hardwire the Gen 3 Tesla wall charger. Great video, thanks…
As long as you can find a 50 amp rated plug then yes
Just ordered my model Y GREAT info Thx one question, I have a 50 amp cord going from my circuit breaker to the garage will that work or do I need to replace it with a 60 amp cord?
Just leave it as 50 amp. The wall connector will know and automatically set the charging level to a safe level, 40 amps
My question is that dryer wire is it rated for 40amps.
One potential problem I see, depending on the local code in the jurisdiction, is GFCI requirement. GFCI would be required for NEMA receptacles under recent versions of NEC. OTOH Tesla Wall Connector is a GFCI device by itself and therefore should not be connected to a circuit with existing GFCI protection. This can cause nuisance trips in newer and/or recently renovated homes.
No GFIC on this line
I might have missed it, but I did not see BTG setting up the wall connector for a 50 A circuit (40 A charge rate). This is an important step. Be sure to read Tesla’s installation manual.
It’s a 14-50 line. That’s hooked up to a 50 amp circuit
You voltage drops because of the longer cable Or because of a poor connection.
I was thinking the same
Not bad. You do get higher charging capabilities with the Tesla wall charger...BUT, if you wanted to split the outlet you could have gotten a NeoCharge outlet box. It plus into the NEMA 14 outlet then you plug each of your Tesla chargers into it and it's smart enough to balance the charging for you throughout the night for both cars.
Now, it would be a good idea what that type of setup to then have two travel chargers for your cars that stay in the trynk/frunk at all times and two more that stay connected to the NeoCharge charger.
There you go
excellent, smart! I've got NEMA 10-30 outlet, I imagine same can be done, just with a 10-30 cord instead. Envision any issue with that? Looks like wall connector can go on various breaker levels, not just 40 AMP. TIA
yep! Same thing can be done.
@@BeardedTeslaGuy great- really appreciate all your videos!
I see people mentioning the $500 price for the charger. Check to see if your city or electric company offers a rebate. I live in Roseville, CA and they offer up to $500 rebate towards a home charger.
Some of y'all are lucky with the rebates. No such rebates here unfortunately
Yes but most rebates are only good if you have a licensed electrician install it.
@@ELCEV I am also fortunate that my father in law is an electrician. Although the city never required me to send them anything on that. All I submitted was the form and receipt for the wall charger.
@@22tbond Good deal.