Getting caught up on your old videos. Great Channel. Thanks for all the useful tips. Question; My woodshop teacher in high school had us use Steel Wool for applying stain. That was a few decades ago, and I'm just now getting back into the game. I'd love to hear your thoughts. Have you ever used steel wool for applying stain?
By sharing your hits and misses you are helping so many others on their path. I watch your videos whenever they come up on my feed. They are most informative and entertaining. Thank you for allowing us into your workshop and home.
I wholeheartedly agree with you on the General finishes! I just by chance came across someone else who recommended it so I bought a pint to try it out. I will never use anything else. I really love your work.
I been searching for three days trying to find the right product for a coffee table I've been working on for a friend, this must be my 6th or so video and you are not alone, seems everyone loves the Arm-N-Seal but you really helped me chose the water base and gave some great tips. Thanks.
Fantastic video - thanks so much. I've just re-finished an 89 spindled curved staircase in General Finishes 'Java' Gel Stain. Took 12 days... I've been struggling with the best top coat to use and this video has sealed the deal for General Finishes High Performance Satin top coat. I'm feeling way more confident now that I won't be disappointed in the final result! Thanks again.
Wow, you seem so low energy in this old video! Love the energy in your newer vids! Great info presented clearly and thouroughly without the attempted humor. When I want comedy, I'll watch the Three Stooges! When I'm looking for woodworking tips or inspiration, 731 is the place. Thanks, Matt!
GeneralcFinishes is the best there is. They are the manufacturer of the very best top coatings in the industry. I use it exclusively. I am an artist and furniture artisan…and have NEVER been disappointed with it. Their milk paint and stains and glazes are fabulous also.And…if ever you need a waterbased stainblocker that absolutely stops tannin, try theirs. ( it is impossible to find a waterbased stainblocker that stops bleed -through on oak,pine, cherry or mahogany.)You will be amazed. Their product is the only one that works. Again…their products are the cream of the crop.
I absolutely love General Finishes products, especially the High Performance topcoats. I also love their stains tho am wanting to try their gel stains. Have used it for several years now and have had nothing but great results.
I have recently found your videos and are enjoying them and trying to catch up on all of them, I am a weekend hobbyist myself and have used alot of varnish and polyurethane before I heard of the product you are using, a little trick I had to learn on bubbles in varnish was to use very light air from either a small fan or compressed air gently to pop the bubbles in the wet varnish.
Hi Matt. I enjoy your videos very much. I have just stumbled across the General Finishes products recently and I do like them! I spray nearly everything just because I feel a more consistent finished product. All that said, I do things a little different then you. I finish every side of a board exactly the same (unless it is going to be glued.) The reason I do this is I want the wood to respond to air and moisture the same on all sides. If one side draws moisture from the air and the other side doesn’t, it will have a tendency to bow. And no one likes that!
Matt i enjoy your videos thanks for making them. I watch a furniture build about his clear coat he says he uses oil that he cuts with mineral spirits half and half so a gallon will give u two gallons he wiped it on a table he never takes hes hand up he goes down the table moves over and goes back up. He used a lint free paper towel soak in the satin oil it also dried faster so u can do more coats. I used hes technique on a table it work great for me.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You inspire me to want to try woodworking projects. You are humble, and admit your not perfect, as none of us are. Keep on producing your video's. I learn something every time I watch them. Again. Thanks for passing on your experience its very valuable.
You should try tinkering around with mineral spirits in place of the pre-stain conditioner. I gave it a shot on some scrap pieces of pine I had. It worked extremely well in getting rid of ugly blotching. I got the whole board wet with spirits, wiped up the excess, let it sit for just a little bit, then wiped on the stain.
Thank you so much for this wonderful video. New to woodworking and the tip about General Finishes is wonderful and many others are making the same comments as well. Video well done. I'll be checking out more of your videos.
Matt, Using a sanding sealer will do the same as the pre-stain conditioner, Waterlox is an excellent water based finish as well and I believe its cheaper the General.
Yeah, I been trying to get that oil base for years. Tried everything and it just didn’t float my boat. I did a shelf by my chair and it did fairly good. Was looking at it the other day and I was like WOW that stain looks good. And it had hardened to nice shiny hard finish. I’m hooked for sure.
Matt you always have the best videos. I really appreciate that you explain all the small details and why you do what you do. Very helpful when trying to learn! Would love it if would please do a video of GF milk paint. Thank you!
Matt.. thank you for your recommendation on the finishing clip... learned a lot... just ordered my first gallon of the General Finishes Hi Perf satin... Richard
Like you Matt, I've used just about every finish and always seem to find myself going back too the General Finish High Performance product. I do generally use a higher sheen finish rather than satin, but that's a personal preference. I always enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work !
That was great! It was the scene that was drowned out by music in a previous video. I was wondering if there were any advantages to using oil based poly, but you pretty much made your answer known. Thank you again
I love these videos and they’re helping me so much! With your water based clear, does that mean you could clean the brush with just some water? Thanks!
I have only ever used oil based Polyurethane. It has been some years. I mixed it down with 25% mineral spirits to thin it. That helps it not bubble or streak so bad. I used foam brushes and go slow also to prevent bubbles. Sand lightly...rinse and repeat many times abut every 6 hours. When working with a flat surface I am able to literally poor it on and smooth that down after a few thin coats. Then I wind up with about at least 16th" of coating. wait a couple days, sand and put on thin coat for final. Looks like glass. no streaks or bubbles. It so hard then you can use window cleaner on it. I did an end table and coffee table that way close to 40 years ago. There are still no flaws in them. They don't care about moisture as none will get through and the coating is like epoxy. They are smooth and shine. If you don't like the gloss, you will not like this. But it has worked well for me. It is certainly not as quick as some of these others that Matt uses, but not so bad as it can be sanded and recoated in 6 hours.
I do believe you're turning me into a General Finishes guy. I am looking forward to trying it myself and having the same reaction. Thanks!!! I just hope it is easy to get in Canada since I can't get to the US stores right now. Amazon appears to have it for about 55-60CDN taxes in and shipped......
Update - I managed to find it at Lee Valley which is headquartered some 30 miles from here (I should have looked there first before looking at big box stores). My awesome wife got me some for Christmas, so here I am rewatching the video once again!!! Merry Christmas to you and Mrs. 731!
What a blast from the past this video! I’m trying to figure out what’s a good durable way to seal up osb in a cargo trailer, the flooring will have pvc coin mat but I’d like to protect the walls from moisture and help with chipping, any thoughts?
Thank You for this video It has really helped a newbie. I have a question. I am working on a bedroom suite from the 1970's I have stripped and now in the process of sanding. I want the natural look on this BEAUTIFUL wood. After sanding Do I need to do anything to the wood before applying the topcoat? I am ordering what your using.
I just getting started with the woodworking.. Just want to say great video.. I would really love to figure out how do the rustic white wash that i noticed one the base of a couple of the table's at the end of this video..
Hey Matt, I’m making your chunky farmhouse table for my wife and the construction part turned out great but I wanted to stain the top with a lighter stain like you have in this video(19:45). What did you use because I used minwax golden oak and it looks orange. I used pre stain conditioner. Thanks love all your videos and great ideas
Hi, i'm trying yo start my first wood proyect (bathroom cabinets), and I've been told everywhere not to combine oil and water base stain/top coat, they said it won't. Your project looks beautiful though. Would it work about the same on maple wood? Do you sand between stain coats (if I need to apply more than one)? And, do you sand before applying the top coat? I'm so glad I found your videos. Your explanations are very detailed and I love it! Thanks:)
I haven’t had any issues using water based clear coat over an oil based stain so long as the stain is completely dry (24 or more hours). I do not sand between coats of stain but do a high grit sand between clear coats.
What was the stain color/product used on the coffee table with the "0731" numbering set on top? I believe this same table is shown in another video with a walnut stain, but the finish in this video is lighter, table also has more set dowels. Nice work, thanks for sharing!
Hey Matt! Love the videos! Have you tested yourself or have had customers give feedback regarding water marks/heat applied with the different top coats/seals used? Specifically on coffee tables/end tables? Thanks in advance!
@@731Woodworks Thanks for the response! I've only used Minwax/Helmsman/Clear Satin and haven't noticed any damage from water/heat. However, I used cheap wood that dents easily and my perfectionist side struggled with applying as you've said you didn't enjoy either! I feel as if I can never clean my brushes good enough in between projects so I've stopped buying them :/
Do you ever stain projects that are fully assembled or do you stain each piece of wood before assembly? I have had issues with applying it and then forgetting where I have wiped off so not sure what is best. Sorry if this a dumb question but running into alot of staining issues.
We are making a maple table top for a daughter and am nervous about blotching but will try prestaining, but will the General Finish High Performance top coat protect a table used in a kitchen from water and daily use? Great video thank you.
Hello Matthew! I am a mere beginner in woodwork. I just bought a birch butcher block countertop to use as a desk. It is 74"x25" and 1.5" thick. I will be sealing it with Arm R Seal. My question is, do I have have to seal the top and bottom or can I get away with just sealing the top and edges. I've read that I can get away with it, but I also read that the difference in moisture absorption will cause the wood to warp. I would love to know your thoughts. Thank you!
Hi! I love your videos. I have done an armoire with all oil based product and it turned out great, but I know what you mean by just not good enough haha. I am now building my own L shape desk so your videos have really helped prepare me. I did have a question.. Most things I have read say not to mix the two, but I would love to be able to use this water based stain with an oil based stain (so it matches the armoire). Have you had any problems mixing an oil stain with a water clear coat?
Great video. I'm pretty new to this, and I keep reading that modern wood glue creates a bond that's tougher than wood fibers when applied properly. If that's the case, what's the point of using both glue and pocket holes? Wouldn't a glue-only joint be as strong as what you have in the video? Is the point of using screws on top of using glue that it's a lot easier and quicker to build it this way than having to do a glue up with clamps and a long drying time?
Hi matt hope you're well I'm really enjoying your videos and appreciate your hard work. Can you advise me do I put a wood stain on first then tung oil then polyurethane or tung oil first then stain etc thanks Geoff
Thx for the vid. Question- would you suggest light sanding after stain drying, before first clear coat? Saw another yt'er suggest this and I'm not so sure... Btw are you still using general water based top coats?
"Do it with the grain?" I have never painted a piece of wood and I have to refinish my dinning table to save some money. Can you please give me some tips on how you know you are doing it with the grain. I like your videos!
You should be able to see the wood grain in the table if it is a wood table. The wood grain are the lines you see in the table. To refinish a piece, you will need to sand the furniture down first. Check out this video where we re finished our cabinets ua-cam.com/video/fB_aixX3-Wg/v-deo.html
Hey, how about trying a barn wood stain. I went around with my local hardware store. They have barn wood grey stain that I think it’s like craft paint. I found online that Varathane has what they call an accelerator. It’s like water. Duh water base but it comes out awesome. If you remember I said something about my water based piece. Give it a try.
Hello, i enjoyed the video, very helpful! finishing is always a problem! have you done a video on how you do the paint finish and distressing on the contrasting table legs?
You didn't mention wet sanding, I wonder if that might have been the cause of the bumps after the initial coat. I feel like you might have gotten brush strokes from the other brands from over brushing... That happens to me when I brush as fervently as you were. I tend to use fewer brush strokes and let it spread, but that does get harder when the weather is hotter and drier. I'll have to try that stuff, if it makes that process easier To that point, when it's really hot and dry, I end up with more brush strokes and imperfections due to the poly drying too fast while applying... It's it possible (or wise) to dilute the poly when the conditions are as such? I appreciate the videos, and I'll definitely use the sponsor links to support you, thanks!
Hey brother, I bought a can of Verathane Premium Wood Stain a few months ago(before watching your video) and it says "no conditioning needed". Is that reliable or do you think I should buy some pre-stain conditioner?
Hey Matt! I’m a beginner woodworker and I have been working with my grandfather in the mornings. He said to never shake the stain as well as the polyurethane. Would you agree or disagree?
I know this is an older video. I've been watching a mix of old and new just searching topics. For clear coat, would you now recommend spray lacquer over the method shown in this video? Thanks!
Is the General Finishes top coat ok for outdoor use? The current finish I'm using is similar, water based, but it says on the can for indoor use only. If General Finishes is ok for outdoor I'll switch to that. Thanks!
I wouldn’t use it for outdoor use. For outdoor I would look at an oil based finish like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal or Minwax Spar Urethane. Spar Urethane is actually made for marine applications and holds up well outdoors.
Hey matt, any idea why after i used a router on the edges of my tabletop,(2 1X10's ontop eachother) the stain will not stick to that area for some reason, thnx
I have a fire place mantel that i stained red Mahogany (its a bit darker than i wanted) and i need to finish it but i do not want to darken it further...I hear water based poly do not darken wood, but that shelac and oil based finishes ARE FOR dark wood like Mohagany....which should I use!!!??? Please help
Hi! My question is this..... was the stain an oil base and the top coat water base? It’s ok to do that? I’ve used the General Finishes Arm R Seal top coat, but here in Los Angeles county oil based products are not longer sold. How is the durability of the water based product for a table top? Thank you!
I've never had a problem using any of the oil based finishes when going for a satin finish. Satin finish hides a Lot. How about the semi gloss or high gloss finishes. Do you get brush strokes with the water based?
If you like this content, please consider checking out my top videos ua-cam.com/video/5xSmXRV4l2A/v-deo.html
I know I am quite off topic but does anyone know a good place to stream new series online ?
@Zechariah Kenneth flixportal
@Oscar August Thank you, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I appreciate it!
@Zechariah Kenneth No problem xD
Getting caught up on your old videos. Great Channel. Thanks for all the useful tips. Question; My woodshop teacher in high school had us use Steel Wool for applying stain. That was a few decades ago, and I'm just now getting back into the game. I'd love to hear your thoughts. Have you ever used steel wool for applying stain?
By sharing your hits and misses you are helping so many others on their path.
I watch your videos whenever they come up on my feed. They are most informative and entertaining.
Thank you for allowing us into your workshop and home.
Thank you
Matt, 6 years ago, you were starting out with You Tube videos. Great start, now you have come a long way. Thanks my friend.
sir watching you grow and get comfortable in front of the camera both in your faith and your talking is fantastic. please keep it up.
I just used the General water based clear coat. I am amazed and everything you say about it is correct. I will never use anything else
I wholeheartedly agree with you on the General finishes! I just by chance came across someone else who recommended it so I bought a pint to try it out. I will never use anything else. I really love your work.
Thank you!
I been searching for three days trying to find the right product for a coffee table I've been working on for a friend, this must be my 6th or so video and you are not alone, seems everyone loves the Arm-N-Seal but you really helped me chose the water base and gave some great tips. Thanks.
Glad it helped
The best video I’ve watched on how to apply the topcoat very thorough and detailed and that’s what I needed thanks
Thank you
Hey Matt, I’m just getting into woodworking and this video is extremely helpful. Thank you for all the great content of your videos.
Thanks! So glad it helped. Let me know if I can help you in any way. Message me on Instagram or FB if I can help or share your work. Love to see it.
Fantastic video - thanks so much. I've just re-finished an 89 spindled curved staircase in General Finishes 'Java' Gel Stain. Took 12 days... I've been struggling with the best top coat to use and this video has sealed the deal for General Finishes High Performance Satin top coat. I'm feeling way more confident now that I won't be disappointed in the final result! Thanks again.
Glad it helped
I agree General Finishes is the best finish! For sure hands down!
it is good stuff.
Wow, you seem so low energy in this old video! Love the energy in your newer vids! Great info presented clearly and thouroughly without the attempted humor. When I want comedy, I'll watch the Three Stooges! When I'm looking for woodworking tips or inspiration, 731 is the place. Thanks, Matt!
GeneralcFinishes is the best there is. They are the manufacturer of the very best top coatings in the industry. I use it exclusively. I am an artist and furniture artisan…and have NEVER been disappointed with it. Their milk paint and stains and glazes are fabulous also.And…if ever you need a waterbased stainblocker that absolutely stops tannin, try theirs. ( it is impossible to find a waterbased stainblocker that stops bleed -through on oak,pine, cherry or mahogany.)You will be amazed. Their product is the only one that works. Again…their products are the cream of the crop.
I absolutely love General Finishes products, especially the High Performance topcoats. I also love their stains tho am wanting to try their gel stains. Have used it for several years now and have had nothing but great results.
They make great products
I have recently found your videos and are enjoying them and trying to catch up on all of them, I am a weekend hobbyist myself and have used alot of varnish and polyurethane before I heard of the product you are using, a little trick I had to learn on bubbles in varnish was to use very light air from either a small fan or compressed air gently to pop the bubbles in the wet varnish.
Learned the hard way first but found General almost by mistake and it has turned me around on good finishes, top drawer stuff!
They make excellent products for sure!
Hi Matt. I enjoy your videos very much. I have just stumbled across the General Finishes products recently and I do like them! I spray nearly everything just because I feel a more consistent finished product.
All that said, I do things a little different then you. I finish every side of a board exactly the same (unless it is going to be glued.) The reason I do this is I want the wood to respond to air and moisture the same on all sides. If one side draws moisture from the air and the other side doesn’t, it will have a tendency to bow. And no one likes that!
Matt i enjoy your videos thanks for making them. I watch a furniture build about his clear coat he says he uses oil that he cuts with mineral spirits half and half so a gallon will give u two gallons he wiped it on a table he never takes hes hand up he goes down the table moves over and goes back up. He used a lint free paper towel soak in the satin oil it also dried faster so u can do more coats. I used hes technique on a table it work great for me.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. You inspire me to want to try woodworking projects. You are humble, and admit your not perfect, as none of us are. Keep on producing your video's. I learn something every time I watch them. Again. Thanks for passing on your experience its very valuable.
Thank you
You should try tinkering around with mineral spirits in place of the pre-stain conditioner. I gave it a shot on some scrap pieces of pine I had. It worked extremely well in getting rid of ugly blotching. I got the whole board wet with spirits, wiped up the excess, let it sit for just a little bit, then wiped on the stain.
I''ve heard that before. I'll have to give it a try! Thanks
Thank you so much for this wonderful video. New to woodworking and the tip about General Finishes is wonderful and many others are making the same comments as well. Video well done. I'll be checking out more of your videos.
Matt, Using a sanding sealer will do the same as the pre-stain conditioner, Waterlox is an excellent water based finish as well and I believe its cheaper the General.
Yeah, I been trying to get that oil base for years. Tried everything and it just didn’t float my boat. I did a shelf by my chair and it did fairly good. Was looking at it the other day and I was like WOW that stain looks good. And it had hardened to nice shiny hard finish. I’m hooked for sure.
awesome
All your work looks excellent..thanks for all the knowledge you giving everyone..
MrMlozano79 Thank you. I’m glad you find it helpful.
Very helpful ,thanks Matt
Matt you always have the best videos. I really appreciate that you explain all the small details and why you do what you do. Very helpful when trying to learn! Would love it if would please do a video of GF milk paint. Thank you!
Thank you
Matt.. thank you for your recommendation on the finishing clip... learned a lot... just ordered my first gallon of the General Finishes Hi Perf satin... Richard
I think you’ll love it!
Videos have come along way Matt! 😂👊🏻
Like you Matt, I've used just about every finish and always seem to find myself going back too the General Finish High Performance product. I do generally use a higher sheen finish rather than satin, but that's a personal preference.
I always enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work !
Thank you
I didn’t realize that was you. You’ve come a long way with becoming comfortable behind the camera.
That was great! It was the scene that was drowned out by music in a previous video.
I was wondering if there were any advantages to using oil based poly, but you pretty much made your answer known.
Thank you again
👍🏻
I use a small artist brush to hit the pocket holes. Works great. I usually hit those first then the rest of the board.
Great idea
I love these videos and they’re helping me so much! With your water based clear, does that mean you could clean the brush with just some water? Thanks!
That’s correct. Just rinse well with warm water.
Great video learned alot, a little tip you could use qtips to get into the pocket holes that`s what i do comes out nice.
Oh yeah, I do that all the time now.
Nice presentation.
Thank you, good advice. I love GF.
Nice work!
Thank you
Charles Neil pre stain conditioner. And harbor freight $10 spray gun for the top coat. Works best for me.
Thanks for the info
Yeah I like the way that grain piped out there n the edge.
thanks
I have only ever used oil based Polyurethane. It has been some years. I mixed it down with 25% mineral spirits to thin it. That helps it not bubble or streak so bad. I used foam brushes and go slow also to prevent bubbles. Sand lightly...rinse and repeat many times abut every 6 hours. When working with a flat surface I am able to literally poor it on and smooth that down after a few thin coats. Then I wind up with about at least 16th" of coating. wait a couple days, sand and put on thin coat for final. Looks like glass. no streaks or bubbles. It so hard then you can use window cleaner on it. I did an end table and coffee table that way close to 40 years ago. There are still no flaws in them. They don't care about moisture as none will get through and the coating is like epoxy. They are smooth and shine. If you don't like the gloss, you will not like this. But it has worked well for me. It is certainly not as quick as some of these others that Matt uses, but not so bad as it can be sanded and recoated in 6 hours.
Amazing. Thanks! Wilk order on amazon now
👍🏻
Hi Matt, love your videos and they are very helpful! Did you say you used a damp cloth or dry to wipe the excess stain off?
Gun cleaning swabs (like giant q-tips) might work well for the pocket holes.
that's a great idea! Thanks for sharing!
I do believe you're turning me into a General Finishes guy. I am looking forward to trying it myself and having the same reaction. Thanks!!! I just hope it is easy to get in Canada since I can't get to the US stores right now. Amazon appears to have it for about 55-60CDN taxes in and shipped......
For some reason, I was thinking they were a Canadian company. Maybe not.
I'll go check out the local and big box stores Friday. Will let you know!
Update - I managed to find it at Lee Valley which is headquartered some 30 miles from here (I should have looked there first before looking at big box stores). My awesome wife got me some for Christmas, so here I am rewatching the video once again!!! Merry Christmas to you and Mrs. 731!
Awesome. Merry Christmas
Thank you! Same to you and the whole 731 family!!
I am going to have to try some of that. Spraying is a pain on small projects
For sure
What a blast from the past this video! I’m trying to figure out what’s a good durable way to seal up osb in a cargo trailer, the flooring will have pvc coin mat but I’d like to protect the walls from moisture and help with chipping, any thoughts?
Thank You for this video It has really helped a newbie. I have a question. I am working on a bedroom suite from the 1970's I have stripped and now in the process of sanding. I want the natural look on this BEAUTIFUL wood. After sanding Do I need to do anything to the wood before applying the topcoat? I am ordering what your using.
If you are leaving the wood a natural color, I'd use Tung Oil, Boiled Linseed Oil or Odie's Oil instead of a polyurethane
@@731Woodworks would you recommend a wax over it?
Crap you do some nice work. Thank you for the education.
If you are using Poplar, pre-staining is a must to avoid blotching.
For sure
I just getting started with the woodworking.. Just want to say great video.. I would really love to figure out how do the rustic white wash that i noticed one the base of a couple of the table's at the end of this video..
Thank you, Check out this video on how I distress my projects ua-cam.com/video/M3jCJg9vnAU/v-deo.html
Hello and thanks for your video, what will you recommend to finish an MDF workbench????
Excellent
thank you
Hey Matt, I’m making your chunky farmhouse table for my wife and the construction part turned out great but I wanted to stain the top with a lighter stain like you have in this video(19:45). What did you use because I used minwax golden oak and it looks orange. I used pre stain conditioner. Thanks love all your videos and great ideas
That’s dark walnut on here
Hi, i'm trying yo start my first wood proyect (bathroom cabinets), and I've been told everywhere not to combine oil and water base stain/top coat, they said it won't. Your project looks beautiful though. Would it work about the same on maple wood? Do you sand between stain coats (if I need to apply more than one)? And, do you sand before applying the top coat? I'm so glad I found your videos. Your explanations are very detailed and I love it! Thanks:)
I haven’t had any issues using water based clear coat over an oil based stain so long as the stain is completely dry (24 or more hours). I do not sand between coats of stain but do a high grit sand between clear coats.
Thanks!
What was the stain color/product used on the coffee table with the "0731" numbering set on top? I believe this same table is shown in another video with a walnut stain, but the finish in this video is lighter, table also has more set dowels. Nice work, thanks for sharing!
If I remember right, that is Minwax Golden Oak stain
Hey Matt! Love the videos!
Have you tested yourself or have had customers give feedback regarding water marks/heat applied with the different top coats/seals used? Specifically on coffee tables/end tables?
Thanks in advance!
I haven't tried that.
@@731Woodworks Thanks for the response! I've only used Minwax/Helmsman/Clear Satin and haven't noticed any damage from water/heat. However, I used cheap wood that dents easily and my perfectionist side struggled with applying as you've said you didn't enjoy either! I feel as if I can never clean my brushes good enough in between projects so I've stopped buying them :/
Do you ever stain projects that are fully assembled or do you stain each piece of wood before assembly? I have had issues with applying it and then forgetting where I have wiped off so not sure what is best. Sorry if this a dumb question but running into alot of staining issues.
I have. The best thing to do, once the stain is applied, go back over the entire piece with a clean rag and wipe off any excess stain.
Good question!!
We are making a maple table top for a daughter and am nervous about blotching but will try prestaining, but will the General Finish High Performance top coat protect a table used in a kitchen from water and daily use? Great video thank you.
I think it would. However, I would contact General Finishes directly and ask them.
Thank you
Hello from Little Rock.
Hello neighbor
Hello Matthew! I am a mere beginner in woodwork. I just bought a birch butcher block countertop to use as a desk. It is 74"x25" and 1.5" thick. I will be sealing it with Arm R Seal. My question is, do I have have to seal the top and bottom or can I get away with just sealing the top and edges. I've read that I can get away with it, but I also read that the difference in moisture absorption will cause the wood to warp. I would love to know your thoughts. Thank you!
You’ll be fine just doing the top and sides
@@731Woodworks thank youuuu!!
Hi! I love your videos. I have done an armoire with all oil based product and it turned out great, but I know what you mean by just not good enough haha. I am now building my own L shape desk so your videos have really helped prepare me. I did have a question.. Most things I have read say not to mix the two, but I would love to be able to use this water based stain with an oil based stain (so it matches the armoire). Have you had any problems mixing an oil stain with a water clear coat?
Great video. I'm pretty new to this, and I keep reading that modern wood glue creates a bond that's tougher than wood fibers when applied properly. If that's the case, what's the point of using both glue and pocket holes? Wouldn't a glue-only joint be as strong as what you have in the video? Is the point of using screws on top of using glue that it's a lot easier and quicker to build it this way than having to do a glue up with clamps and a long drying time?
Speed and drying time. Yep
Use a good, clean micro fiber cloth in place of a tack cloth. No sticky residue, wash and reuse, a money saver.
Hi matt hope you're well I'm really enjoying your videos and appreciate your hard work. Can you advise me do I put a wood stain on first then tung oil then polyurethane or tung oil first then stain etc thanks Geoff
Just stain then poly. No tung oil needed. If you use tung oil you shouldn’t need any other finish
@731Woodworks thanks matt you're a great help enjoy your day
Geoff
Good opening riff.
Thanks
Thx for the vid.
Question- would you suggest light sanding after stain drying, before first clear coat? Saw another yt'er suggest this and I'm not so sure...
Btw are you still using general water based top coats?
I don’t sand before clear coats. I switched to Varathane water based clear coat because it is not as expensive and works great
Hey Matt, just wondering which paint sprayer do you use, I find your videos really helpful and informative
Thank you. This is the one I currently use ua-cam.com/video/wA17PvY5Uqs/v-deo.html
"Do it with the grain?" I have never painted a piece of wood and I have to refinish my dinning table to save some money. Can you please give me some tips on how you know you are doing it with the grain. I like your videos!
You should be able to see the wood grain in the table if it is a wood table. The wood grain are the lines you see in the table. To refinish a piece, you will need to sand the furniture down first. Check out this video where we re finished our cabinets ua-cam.com/video/fB_aixX3-Wg/v-deo.html
Thank you for replying! I am learning so much from your videos. I am using your link for my purchases.
@@verolili245 Thank you very much. I appreciate that.
I Love General Finishes! I wish I could afford to use it.
I’ve been using varathane water based clear coats and find them to be just as good as GF
Try Zar Polyurethane.
If you have an ollies near you. The have varathane gloss, semi gloss, satin and matte Polly for $3.99. They also have a few stains. Also 3.99.
U should try varathane polyacrylic u get it at home depot
Hi, great job. Can I use acrylic rollers or brushing is most recommended?
I’ve never used rollers. I recommend brushing it on myself
Hey, how about trying a barn wood stain. I went around with my local hardware store. They have barn wood grey stain that I think it’s like craft paint. I found online that Varathane has what they call an accelerator. It’s like water. Duh water base but it comes out awesome. If you remember I said something about my water based piece. Give it a try.
that would be nice
Hello, i enjoyed the video, very helpful! finishing is always a problem! have you done a video on how you do the paint finish and distressing on the contrasting table legs?
Yes I did. Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/M3jCJg9vnAU/v-deo.html
I was watching your video on staring wood and the general finishes in oil base is in the green label are you sure its water base
You didn't mention wet sanding, I wonder if that might have been the cause of the bumps after the initial coat.
I feel like you might have gotten brush strokes from the other brands from over brushing... That happens to me when I brush as fervently as you were. I tend to use fewer brush strokes and let it spread, but that does get harder when the weather is hotter and drier. I'll have to try that stuff, if it makes that process easier
To that point, when it's really hot and dry, I end up with more brush strokes and imperfections due to the poly drying too fast while applying... It's it possible (or wise) to dilute the poly when the conditions are as such?
I appreciate the videos, and I'll definitely use the sponsor links to support you, thanks!
Would the general finish water base be ok to use over painted furniture or kitchen cupboards?
Yes you can.
Hey brother, I bought a can of Verathane Premium Wood Stain a few months ago(before watching your video) and it says "no conditioning needed". Is that reliable or do you think I should buy some pre-stain conditioner?
I always use conditioner
Hey matt, looking to get into wood working. Is there anything wrong with using a oil based stain and a water based top coat?
Hey Matt! I’m a beginner woodworker and I have been working with my grandfather in the mornings. He said to never shake the stain as well as the polyurethane. Would you agree or disagree?
I agree on the poly
another question. What do you use/suggest for a bathroom vanity top, to avoid water stains?
I would look into a spar urethane. That is what is used on boats and other marine type applications
If you do a distressed piece with the white paint, do you put any clear finish over the paint?
No, if anything I use a paste wax over it
I know this is an older video. I've been watching a mix of old and new just searching topics. For clear coat, would you now recommend spray lacquer over the method shown in this video? Thanks!
Yes, I love spray lacquer. Very durable and easy to use!
@@731Woodworks Thank you for the reply, learning alot from your channel!
I am ordering some
Is the General Finishes top coat ok for outdoor use? The current finish I'm using is similar, water based, but it says on the can for indoor use only. If General Finishes is ok for outdoor I'll switch to that. Thanks!
I wouldn’t use it for outdoor use. For outdoor I would look at an oil based finish like General Finishes Arm-R-Seal or Minwax Spar Urethane. Spar Urethane is actually made for marine applications and holds up well outdoors.
Hey matt, any idea why after i used a router on the edges of my tabletop,(2 1X10's ontop eachother) the stain will not stick to that area for some reason, thnx
Try cutting your pre stain 50/50 with mineral spirits. Works well for me.
thank you
Can you use water base clear coat with oil based stain?
What do you think about Arm-R-Seal?
I like it, it's good stuff.
Is ìt OK to use water base top coat on top of a oil base stain?
Are you using the water based finish with oil based stain?
Do you stain then assemble or assemble then stain?
Depends on the project.
I have a fire place mantel that i stained red Mahogany (its a bit darker than i wanted) and i need to finish it but i do not want to darken it further...I hear water based poly do not darken wood, but that shelac and oil based finishes ARE FOR dark wood like Mohagany....which should I use!!!??? Please help
I’m no expert in that area.
I would think shellac would last much longer above a fire place than a water based though.
What do you use for your topcoats for the exterior furniture? I am using the helmsman right now.
Spar urethane
Q-Tips for the pocket holes. 😀
Hi! My question is this..... was the stain an oil base and the top coat water base? It’s ok to do that?
I’ve used the General Finishes Arm R Seal top coat, but here in Los Angeles county oil based products are not longer sold.
How is the durability of the water based product for a table top?
Thank you!
Yep. I've done it hundreds of time with great results.
I bought a can of the same stuff on Amazon. However, it showed up in a blue can. Do you know if they had a label change or something?
I think they did
Do you sand the final topcoat (3rd coat) and if so, what grit?
No I don’t
Can you use these products on veneer?
Yes, the clear coats you can. To stain veneer, you would have to sand it, but if you're not careful you'll damage the veneer if you sand it too much.
I've never had a problem using any of the oil based finishes when going for a satin finish. Satin finish hides a Lot. How about the semi gloss or high gloss finishes. Do you get brush strokes with the water based?
I haven't used any finishes other than satin.
Can I use the water base on exterior door that needs to be refurbished. The door is 6 years old
Sorry, I’m not sure. I’d hate to steer you wrong on that. I would message General Finishes and ask. They are good about responding on social media.