What a trip down memory lane. I had one of these in 1987-1990. A friend and I replaced the timing belt twice in those three years. Each time, the water pump killed the belt. I don't know who came up with the bright idea of driving the water pump with a timing belt, but he should be hung by his thumbs, right beside whoever decided an inch and a half was enough room to work with to change that belt. This was the car I learned to mechanic on. I could probably take everything under the hood apart by memory. You don't have to loosen anything to get the crank pulley off. There was originally a special Ford tool for getting the thing off, but we never had it. The system my mechanic friend came up with for getting the pulley off was simply to jack up the right side of the car, put an offset wrench on the crankshaft nut, put the car in gear and have me sit with my foot on the brake so the engine would hold the crankshaft still while he broke the nut loose with the wrench and a heavy hammer. Once the nut was out, he beat the pulley off with the same hammer. We just used a mirror to line up the timing marks. Most of these engines hit the valves at some point in their lives. If you were lucky, it wouldn't bend them so much that they wouldn't run. Mine broke the belt both times, and you know it hit, but it still ran with a new belt. It tended to run a little hot, but it ran. At 120,000 miles, the engine finally bit the dust. Number four cylinder cracked into the water jacket, and then out into cylinder three, and it started burning antifreeze as much as it did gas. I had to start scores of engines in the junkyard to finally find one that didn't have the same fault. They all did it. For years, I could pick an early Escort out in a parking lot by the smell. They all stank of antifreeze. That said, when we tore the engine down and found the crack, the pistons still looked good, and the valves didn't look bent, they simply didn't seal well anymore, and that was probably the cause of the crack.
I am currently busy with a CVH 1.4i engine project. It's from an MK4 Ford Fiesta. I'm not a mechanic, I will not be doing all the work so I had to take the engine to the engineers. They had the engine block rebored (20 thou). I bought new 20 thou pistons, new rebuild kit incl water pump and oil pump etc . I cleaned and resprayed the block matt black. I'm a little bit anxious about missing small details that may cost me greatly but I'm glad when I come across the rare but useful CVH engine content like this one. I have subcribed😄👍
This is so coincidental. My water pump JUST crapped the bed a few days ago and you are the ONLY guy that uploads exp/escort videos. I have been dreading trying to work on this thing, but after watching you video I feel more confident about it. I’ve got a 85’ Escort GL I bought for $250 with 50k original miles! Thanks for all your videos you have helped me so much with my little money pit. Hope everything goes well.
That's why I make the videos! No one else does and the literature that exists isn't the best..... So I'm just trying to help everyone I can! I know they're not the best videos but I try to share every bit of knowledge I have in hopes it helps haha Hope it goes well for you, if you have question let me know, best of luck 007!
1982 EXPert Just wanted to let you know after a FULL day (9hrs) I was able to change my water pump which was toast and timing belt. Your vid definitely helped me out and I can’t thank you enough. But I do have just a few questions so please bare with me. I have an 85 escort Gl no ac and the only thing I could not figure out for the life of me was how to release the power steering pump belt. The pump has 6 bolts in it and my dad was determined that it does not pivot. But to me it appears to work like the alternator and pivot on a stud while have 2 slotted bolts for tensioning the belt. Is that the case? And what bolts do you loosen. Also I still have a smog pump and he belt is cracked but the parts house no longer carries the belt. They said just unbolt the thing and toss it. Does that affect drivability at all and is that what you have done to your cars?
@@JamesBond-yj5lo Hey! Sorry for the massive delay, UA-cam didn't notify me of your comment :/ I haven't played around with the power steering pump yet so I can't speak about that, though I thought they pivoted like the smog pump. But I know the smog pump tensions itself. Like those guys say, toss the whole system then reroute the vacuum lines that went to it then plug the bung on the catalytic converter. They only pump air into the cat to cool it and keep gases flowing. These old cats are SOOOO inefficient, if you can either empty it or replace it with a new one - they're almost always plugged..... I've removed all of mine, doing so shaves about 15lbs and makes it possible to change the oil without getting under the car! :D No negative effects because you can't even tell if they're working, but like I said try to replace it with a modern cat or just gut it and reseal it (or bypass it).
Sorry but I wouldn't know, all my stuff is North American (different from all other markets) and our Mazda platform cars are of a different generation being incompatible with anything I have too: 81-90 vs 91-03ish
Start by figuring out the year (by VIN not build date), any that are 81-85 gas engines need a new timing belt before you put any load on them since those are interference - you don't want the belts breaking on those, any that are 1986+ SOHC gas engines are fine as is being non-interference. Up to you if you want to bypass the fuel tank not knowing what's inside to drain later New oil & filter if possible would be extremely wise if you can handle the cost even if just cheap 10w30 tractor oil, firing it up with whatever's inside can be problematic. Before getting it up to temperature new coolant and thermostat is a must, new headgasket & heater core both eventually mandatory - but in the mean time running it for only 5-200 seconds ata time is not going to be an issue as far as coolant goes. Otherwise that's about it and again those aren't musts until you want to rev it up, get it warmed up, or take it down the road. But at that point you have to assess/address every other component on the car (namely every piece of rubber and wheel bearings), maybe I should get around a video on the revival process covering safe procedures and risks.
@@The_1982_EXPert well so far I have taken extra caution with it but some things are inevitable the timing belt has snapped not sure when I’m praying there is no valve damage.
Supposedly the thickest one, the thickest mark is supposed to show ignition @ 0 degrees advance which should be TDC. But that relies on the sprockets and plastic cover to be perfectly aligned and that's a very optimistic expectation. One of my friends had a crank who's keyway was poorly cut, it had the sprocket off by maybe 4 degrees on the crank. So I find it best to find true TDC by either placing a dial gauge in the spark plug hole or a long screwdriver then by gently rocking the engine back and forth you can find true TDC.
The main crank pulley has a notch on the out lips facing straight up towards you, I paint these white whenever I can reach them to stand out. They're otherwise hard to find.... (and on 1.9s there are some times 2 notches on the main pulley) The Cam sprocket has a big arrow casted in one of its 6 holes, that points straight up directly at a tiny dot punched into the head which you can see through the little window in the sprocket with the arrow. Both marks must point exactly straight up :)
@@The_1982_EXPert Thank you ....P.S. Do you now what can be my problem ?...My engine RPM, I can get it to idle at 900 RPM , only went the car is standing still " not running" the engine drop to 900 RPM (IDLE)
What a trip down memory lane. I had one of these in 1987-1990. A friend and I replaced the timing belt twice in those three years. Each time, the water pump killed the belt. I don't know who came up with the bright idea of driving the water pump with a timing belt, but he should be hung by his thumbs, right beside whoever decided an inch and a half was enough room to work with to change that belt. This was the car I learned to mechanic on. I could probably take everything under the hood apart by memory.
You don't have to loosen anything to get the crank pulley off. There was originally a special Ford tool for getting the thing off, but we never had it. The system my mechanic friend came up with for getting the pulley off was simply to jack up the right side of the car, put an offset wrench on the crankshaft nut, put the car in gear and have me sit with my foot on the brake so the engine would hold the crankshaft still while he broke the nut loose with the wrench and a heavy hammer. Once the nut was out, he beat the pulley off with the same hammer. We just used a mirror to line up the timing marks. Most of these engines hit the valves at some point in their lives. If you were lucky, it wouldn't bend them so much that they wouldn't run. Mine broke the belt both times, and you know it hit, but it still ran with a new belt. It tended to run a little hot, but it ran. At 120,000 miles, the engine finally bit the dust. Number four cylinder cracked into the water jacket, and then out into cylinder three, and it started burning antifreeze as much as it did gas. I had to start scores of engines in the junkyard to finally find one that didn't have the same fault. They all did it. For years, I could pick an early Escort out in a parking lot by the smell. They all stank of antifreeze. That said, when we tore the engine down and found the crack, the pistons still looked good, and the valves didn't look bent, they simply didn't seal well anymore, and that was probably the cause of the crack.
Thank you! Just picked up a MK4 Escort, carbureted 1.4 CVH and it needs a new belt and this is a perfect video!
I am currently busy with a CVH 1.4i engine project. It's from an MK4 Ford Fiesta. I'm not a mechanic, I will not be doing all the work so I had to take the engine to the engineers. They had the engine block rebored (20 thou). I bought new 20 thou pistons, new rebuild kit incl water pump and oil pump etc . I cleaned and resprayed the block matt black. I'm a little bit anxious about missing small details that may cost me greatly but I'm glad when I come across the rare but useful CVH engine content like this one. I have subcribed😄👍
Make sure you replace the petcock on the radiator as well. They will get brittle and shoot out, causing you to lose all your coolant suddenly.
This is so coincidental. My water pump JUST crapped the bed a few days ago and you are the ONLY guy that uploads exp/escort videos. I have been dreading trying to work on this thing, but after watching you video I feel more confident about it. I’ve got a 85’ Escort GL I bought for $250 with 50k original miles! Thanks for all your videos you have helped me so much with my little money pit. Hope everything goes well.
That's why I make the videos! No one else does and the literature that exists isn't the best..... So I'm just trying to help everyone I can! I know they're not the best videos but I try to share every bit of knowledge I have in hopes it helps haha
Hope it goes well for you, if you have question let me know, best of luck 007!
1982 EXPert
Just wanted to let you know after a FULL day (9hrs) I was able to change my water pump which was toast and timing belt. Your vid definitely helped me out and I can’t thank you enough. But I do have just a few questions so please bare with me.
I have an 85 escort Gl no ac and the only thing I could not figure out for the life of me was how to release the power steering pump belt. The pump has 6 bolts in it and my dad was determined that it does not pivot. But to me it appears to work like the alternator and pivot on a stud while have 2 slotted bolts for tensioning the belt. Is that the case? And what bolts do you loosen.
Also I still have a smog pump and he belt is cracked but the parts house no longer carries the belt. They said just unbolt the thing and toss it. Does that affect drivability at all and is that what you have done to your cars?
@@JamesBond-yj5lo Hey! Sorry for the massive delay, UA-cam didn't notify me of your comment :/
I haven't played around with the power steering pump yet so I can't speak about that, though I thought they pivoted like the smog pump.
But I know the smog pump tensions itself. Like those guys say, toss the whole system then reroute the vacuum lines that went to it then plug the bung on the catalytic converter. They only pump air into the cat to cool it and keep gases flowing. These old cats are SOOOO inefficient, if you can either empty it or replace it with a new one - they're almost always plugged.....
I've removed all of mine, doing so shaves about 15lbs and makes it possible to change the oil without getting under the car! :D No negative effects because you can't even tell if they're working, but like I said try to replace it with a modern cat or just gut it and reseal it (or bypass it).
i have a ford orion 1.6 cvh with 90hp, i try it thanks
hi there , is a Ford escort mk3 with a 1.3 cvh engine Outer CV compatible with the Madza 323 hatchback's CV's
Sorry but I wouldn't know, all my stuff is North American (different from all other markets) and our Mazda platform cars are of a different generation being incompatible with anything I have too: 81-90 vs 91-03ish
I have a escort hatchback found in a barn after 15 years how should I go about a first start up?
Start by figuring out the year (by VIN not build date), any that are 81-85 gas engines need a new timing belt before you put any load on them since those are interference - you don't want the belts breaking on those, any that are 1986+ SOHC gas engines are fine as is being non-interference.
Up to you if you want to bypass the fuel tank not knowing what's inside to drain later
New oil & filter if possible would be extremely wise if you can handle the cost even if just cheap 10w30 tractor oil, firing it up with whatever's inside can be problematic.
Before getting it up to temperature new coolant and thermostat is a must, new headgasket & heater core both eventually mandatory - but in the mean time running it for only 5-200 seconds ata time is not going to be an issue as far as coolant goes.
Otherwise that's about it and again those aren't musts until you want to rev it up, get it warmed up, or take it down the road. But at that point you have to assess/address every other component on the car (namely every piece of rubber and wheel bearings), maybe I should get around a video on the revival process covering safe procedures and risks.
@@The_1982_EXPert well so far I have taken extra caution with it but some things are inevitable the timing belt has snapped not sure when I’m praying there is no valve damage.
Hey, on the timing belt cover, there is 4 marks (for timing) wich one of those marks is gonna line up with the wheel under?
Supposedly the thickest one, the thickest mark is supposed to show ignition @ 0 degrees advance which should be TDC.
But that relies on the sprockets and plastic cover to be perfectly aligned and that's a very optimistic expectation. One of my friends had a crank who's keyway was poorly cut, it had the sprocket off by maybe 4 degrees on the crank. So I find it best to find true TDC by either placing a dial gauge in the spark plug hole or a long screwdriver then by gently rocking the engine back and forth you can find true TDC.
Where is the mark for timing the engine
The main crank pulley has a notch on the out lips facing straight up towards you, I paint these white whenever I can reach them to stand out. They're otherwise hard to find.... (and on 1.9s there are some times 2 notches on the main pulley)
The Cam sprocket has a big arrow casted in one of its 6 holes, that points straight up directly at a tiny dot punched into the head which you can see through the little window in the sprocket with the arrow.
Both marks must point exactly straight up :)
@@The_1982_EXPert Thank you ....P.S. Do you now what can be my problem ?...My engine RPM, I can get it to idle at 900 RPM , only went the car is standing still " not running" the engine drop to 900 RPM (IDLE)
Could it be my Air Pressure Sensor ( E7EF9F479AIA
@@johnnybonifacia9177 Have you got a cracked vacuum line?