THANK YOU! I’ve been working on chainsaws for years. Haven’t run across a carb with adjustment screws like this before. The metering gasket was stiff as a board so I put a kit in it and once I had it running I knew it just needed a little adjustment but I couldn’t figure out how to get the screw restrictors to let go. Watched your video, drilled out those metal pins and BOOM, now I can take the screws all the way out or adjust them as needed. Thanks again. Subscribing.
Most saws have a recommended maximum rpm. You can damage and cause unnecessary damage to your saw when you exceed that rpm, especially older saws that aren't designed to run at the same high rpm of today's saws. Usually when you adjust the saw the way he recommends, under load, you are well within the high rpm range, the tachometer just gives you the knowledge of exactly what the saw is doing. More fuel may be less efficient, but that oil mix in the fuel is what protects the engine from wear and scoring a piston and cylinder and bearings. Running an engine at high rpm is hard on the materials in the engine. Never try to rev engine at high rpm when the engine is cold or when the bar and chain is not attached, to avoid unnecessary wear and damage. Keep up the great work and I'm really enjoying the videos.
Good points hamby, I always just look up max rpms on the online manuals for the saw I'm working on. I Tune it in the wood and then put the tach on to check it and then I can replicate those settings on the other saws I have of that exact model. Thanks for watching man I'm glad your enjoying the videos, I'm still learning all the time and learning from you guys as well. Have a good Christmas man 🇨🇦👊🇨🇦
Great vid man! Im so sick of all the "limiters" and such on saws nowadays. If you buy something like a chainsaw, you should have full control over how you want to tune it and not be limited from the factory!
Good tip, thanks. This year was the first time I found a reasonably priced tach and pulled the trigger. Most of my saws are vintage so I've tried to not run them too lean but it was always a guess. Turns out I've been pretty conservative and had plenty of room to bump them up a bit. These 40 and 50-year-old saws really throw chips now.
Ya that's why I like the tach, I still tune them by ear and then just check them with the tach. Its piece of mind, thanks for watching, and happy holidays 🇨🇦👊🇨🇦
Good video. I leave the pin in. I turn the high to the left until it hits the limiter, then you pull it out(stihl sells a tool for doing this, but I've never bought one), once it's out I grind the part on the needle that limits it and then put it back in, this gives full range. I sold that one or I'd make a video and link it.
@@PoplarMechanic I think the worse one I've seen done on them is when they remove the metal cap altogether and then your forced to use the Allen wrench, not fun. Have a great day.
I'll probably send one to you, I'm not paying shipping though lol, when I get it figured I will send shirts to my closest friends on here and then I'll do a give away as well. Thanks for watching brush life 👊
That’s a good idea to start excessively rich in the cut and just lean it out until it just stops four stroking. I’m an “old school “ non limited coil kind of guy that had to learn how to tune unlimited coils. Luckily I haven’t grenaded anything. Bench tuning doesn’t work on these new saws.
Haha it works good just did my 150 the same way, it sounded a little lean after the muffler but I think it would have been fine I just like to be able to fatten it, drilling is the best for sure 👍 have a good Easter man!
If my memory serves me correctly to get it off you would have to unscrew it all the way, there may have been a part behind that black piece i cant remember 100%. I think I just loosened it until it came free. Hope that helps I remember it wasn't too hard.
Hey man, I realized the drill way is the optimal way to go, so the alan key can adjust it, the flat can as well, the problem is you have limited flathead movement once adjusted with the alan key, the good news is once you get it right with the alan key you can make fine adjustments with the flathead, I apologize I seen that method on another video, but drilling is the best method.
I prefer using a small punch to remove the pin. That way I don’t worry about metal shavings. I do wonder if I should epoxy the hole to keep it clean inside. Thoughts?
THANK YOU! I’ve been working on chainsaws for years. Haven’t run across a carb with adjustment screws like this before. The metering gasket was stiff as a board so I put a kit in it and once I had it running I knew it just needed a little adjustment but I couldn’t figure out how to get the screw restrictors to let go. Watched your video, drilled out those metal pins and BOOM, now I can take the screws all the way out or adjust them as needed. Thanks again. Subscribing.
Awesome, man! Thanks for watching 🤙
Good tips! Thanks for showing us how to make these mods, in such a clear and precise way.
Thanks Eric, I'll have to phone you one of these days and we can talk about are experiences, merry Christmas man 👊
Most saws have a recommended maximum rpm. You can damage and cause unnecessary damage to your saw when you exceed that rpm, especially older saws that aren't designed to run at the same high rpm of today's saws. Usually when you adjust the saw the way he recommends, under load, you are well within the high rpm range, the tachometer just gives you the knowledge of exactly what the saw is doing. More fuel may be less efficient, but that oil mix in the fuel is what protects the engine from wear and scoring a piston and cylinder and bearings. Running an engine at high rpm is hard on the materials in the engine. Never try to rev engine at high rpm when the engine is cold or when the bar and chain is not attached, to avoid unnecessary wear and damage. Keep up the great work and I'm really enjoying the videos.
Good points hamby, I always just look up max rpms on the online manuals for the saw I'm working on. I Tune it in the wood and then put the tach on to check it and then I can replicate those settings on the other saws I have of that exact model. Thanks for watching man I'm glad your enjoying the videos, I'm still learning all the time and learning from you guys as well. Have a good Christmas man 🇨🇦👊🇨🇦
@@PoplarMechanic thanks. I always want everyone to be successful, so I like to give them the information so they can be.
Great vid man! Im so sick of all the "limiters" and such on saws nowadays. If you buy something like a chainsaw, you should have full control over how you want to tune it and not be limited from the factory!
100%
Fk the gubmint.
Thanks, friend, for this information it's very informative. I will try it out. Take care, and God bless!!
This guy is like a young Bucking Billy.
🫡
New to The Poplar Mechanic Channel... Drill Press Cam!! Nice work sir. :) Love the videos keep the content coming.
I will do that, thanks for watching Josh, have a good Christmas .
@@PoplarMechanic you and yours as well sir.
I just love how you keep that collar popped!
Tou have to these days lol
Good tip, thanks. This year was the first time I found a reasonably priced tach and pulled the trigger. Most of my saws are vintage so I've tried to not run them too lean but it was always a guess. Turns out I've been pretty conservative and had plenty of room to bump them up a bit. These 40 and 50-year-old saws really throw chips now.
Ya that's why I like the tach, I still tune them by ear and then just check them with the tach. Its piece of mind, thanks for watching, and happy holidays 🇨🇦👊🇨🇦
@@PoplarMechanic Same to you! See you on Instagram.
This really helped thank you.
Good video.
I leave the pin in. I turn the high to the left until it hits the limiter, then you pull it out(stihl sells a tool for doing this, but I've never bought one), once it's out I grind the part on the needle that limits it and then put it back in, this gives full range. I sold that one or I'd make a video and link it.
Right on, I know what you mean though. That's another good way of doing it! Thanks for watching 👊
@@PoplarMechanic I think the worse one I've seen done on them is when they remove the metal cap altogether and then your forced to use the Allen wrench, not fun.
Have a great day.
Good clean informative video Subscribed!!
Thanks brotha
Outstanding
Nice!
Nice one dude 👍
Thanks man👊
I like how you dive right into saw mods. I always learn something here, thanks and Be Well POP!
Haha thanks man, I learn from you guys to! Have a good Christmas 🇨🇦👊🇨🇦
Good video man I'm going to have to buy my self a tachometer 👊🏽
I need a shirt 😄
I'll probably send one to you, I'm not paying shipping though lol, when I get it figured I will send shirts to my closest friends on here and then I'll do a give away as well. Thanks for watching brush life 👊
@@PoplarMechanic thanks man ✌🏽👊🏽
That’s a good idea to start excessively rich in the cut and just lean it out until it just stops four stroking. I’m an “old school “ non limited coil kind of guy that had to learn how to tune unlimited coils. Luckily I haven’t grenaded anything. Bench tuning doesn’t work on these new saws.
Cool video 🇨🇦👍👍👍stay safe
You to steve, Have a good Christmas man 🇨🇦👊🇨🇦
@@PoplarMechanic merry Christmas and happy new year to you and your family to 🍺🇨🇦🇨🇦😀😀👍👍👍
Works for ms261’s as well. Thanks!
Haha it works good just did my 150 the same way, it sounded a little lean after the muffler but I think it would have been fine I just like to be able to fatten it, drilling is the best for sure 👍 have a good Easter man!
@@PoplarMechanic pretty painless. I was stumped to begin. UA-cam FTW. Same to you!
How do you get the black collar off of the low side carburetor limiter
If my memory serves me correctly to get it off you would have to unscrew it all the way, there may have been a part behind that black piece i cant remember 100%. I think I just loosened it until it came free. Hope that helps I remember it wasn't too hard.
Is the Allen wrench adjusting the jet? Or do you just loosen it till it stops clicking then use flathead to adjust
Hey man, I realized the drill way is the optimal way to go, so the alan key can adjust it, the flat can as well, the problem is you have limited flathead movement once adjusted with the alan key, the good news is once you get it right with the alan key you can make fine adjustments with the flathead, I apologize I seen that method on another video, but drilling is the best method.
I couldn't get the Allen to tighten only click backwards, thanks a bunch though, looking forward to more videos
I prefer using a small punch to remove the pin. That way I don’t worry about metal shavings. I do wonder if I should epoxy the hole to keep it clean inside. Thoughts?
I haven't had any issues, but it can't hurt
@@PoplarMechanic thanks bud!
First!
Lol that was fast man👊
@@PoplarMechanic i file my chains in the same type of vise. i just screw it to where i need it
@@lucfournier3939 good idea 👍
I just cut the metal off around the screw and screw the screw back in with the allen wrench. No need to do all of that