Richard I really enjoy your episodes of repairing on this channel. I am a fixer/repairer from many years of working in broadcast tv and as an electrician. Even so watching you work through problem solving faults on equipment still helps me to learn another approach or technique. We are never too young, or in my case too old, to learn.
Hi Richard could you cut back the outer insulation a couple of inches and then pull the wires individually if the copper is broken in any of the wires it will snap at this point and then if you lucky it will break at the point where it comes out the gland. I have fixed many a flex using this method
It’s an Encoder position sensor .. once known as a quantizer wheel in Numerical Controlled machine tool (aka CNC) lingo. It looks like they epoxy glued it together.
Job 3 is a lot like the heatsink on video card GPUs in the very early 2000's. They were epoxied onto the top of the chip and couldn't be removed without damaging the chip. In your case the heatsink it just aluminium so get a chisel and belt it with a proper hammer and it should come off... you may need to belt it several times ;-) After you get it off file down the heatsink to remove all the scuff marks and old epoxy glue so the new part sits flat. Obviously just use some thermal grease since it has 2 screws holding it on. This is yet another company who knows which part will fail and doesn't want it to be taken apart and fixed.
14:35 With the - Organic capacitor discharge facility - 1980s SafeBlock just like mine with metal wire clips, we used them on the production line to make Hotpoint / Bendix tumble driers in Padiham UK
Greetings: Speculative explanation: The optical shaft encoder may have a second set of allen or similar screws under the short screws already removed that secure the top metal to the lower non-metal section. it would appear that the top-most nut above the rotating portion is used to secure the whole assembly to a moveable plate that rotates separately from the black shaft center control. The removed screws on the lower ring simply are there to keep the shaft connected to its internal connection.
On the shaft encoder, maybe some heat from your heat gun would help to expand the aluminium case and ease it off. But it looks like it's glued together for reliability, haha.
2:24 - That’s an encoder, Rich. It’s used for precise positioning of a DC motor. As Leigh shines through evenly spaced slits on a disk pulses are output on the leads. 47:23 - Next time you’re by any shop, pick up a bottle of Coke. That stuff will eat through _anything_ better than I’ve ever seen! On second thought, it might eat away the heatsink!
With the rotary encoder, you may be able to do brain surgery on it without dismantling by doing the continuity testing with a pin probe on the encoder end and piercing the insulation as far in as you can reach and hopefully if you can identify the culprit, do the micro-surgery on that wire and fix the intermittent problem.
Have you tried to apply your hot air station to the LED as it may loosen the adhesive. If the heat sink wasn't Aluminum I would have suggested the Led was fixed to the heatsink with solder (solder paste). I would not use hammer and chisel (screwdriver) as you mat scratch the bedding surface for the new Led. Applying heat to the old led until it gives up, given its the sacrificial part, is the way forward.
Richard, That is an encoder. As the shaft turns the lines are counted which tells the computer how far the axis that the encoder is mounted on has traveled. depending on direction of rotation the lines are either added or subtracted.
With regards to the Bluetooth on the heater is probably communicates with the controller/thermostat/timer, many places use a lot of these for large area heating.
Wow, seeing you at work, is fantastic, its like a great chef, you know what goes together and the reasons, its the availability and there are now more and more, unrepairable, which is not good for the environment, so i think theres a bigger message to have the basics at least, but better still, full courses, I believe it would create interests and repair, if parts can be made, because the repairs are simple and a switch a thermal sensor, a bio thermal by strip temp regulator! Ive just replaced two parts and still no heat, element is alloy fins, with two leads one at each end, with heat sheaths covering, flex!
Heya, it is very nice to see some other stuf repairs even if it's (not) easy to repair. just to give an idea of what differant elektronics are used these days
About the only way I could figure to get that LED off the heatsink would be a sharp chisel and hammer. A chisel has a good slope to lift, and the flat side shouldn't mar the heatsink too much. As for the rotary optical encoder (is what they are called in the biz ;) ), likely it is a press-fit assembly, which would require a specialized jig to open. Down side is that the encoder wheels are typically glass, so too much shock and, well, you have sand and shards. :P
Pays to check the basics first like the switch or cabling for faults or breaks.. then the components that start the circuit like fuses or 0 Ω resistors.. then the rectifiers and fetts. Then caps for correct readings.. then cold solder joints..
Hi Richard, I wanted to suggest you find someone with a CNC and mill the LED off the heatsink. It would take just a few minutes to get it off, but then I saw the Epilogue. So maybe next time 😀
I think the lamp you're after is possibly a LiangDi Sunkare LHW 552mm 2000W. If you Google it there are a handful of places that appear to have them available.
Richard have you tried applying heat to the LED to remove it from the heatsink, as for the encoder as someone else said it is probably been glued together with epoxy !! have a great weekend !!
Rotary Pulse Encoder - quad counting to determine direction of rotation. Test using a 2chan oscilloscopes, tracing the output curve that moves in a square form. Speed determined by the number of pulses per min. Could have 1000 pulse per 360 degrees of shaft rotation. Distance measured by use of a precision circumference wheel that contacts the job or work table. You won't open something that has been molded onto the metallic body.
The cable looks to have a burnt ring on the outside of the motor, maybe cut the jacket and peel it back to take a look, it looks to be the problem area
New electronics repair hobbyist here. I appreciate your content so much, thank you!! I recently got a device that was plugged into an 9V AC power supply instead of the correct 9V DC PSU. Now it doesn't power up. Do you think the device could be fixable?
Its called a positional encoder...used to measure rotation angle and direction or distance traveled etc. Very common but not usually fixable unless its just the cable
Those LEDs run very hot anyway, but of you watched all the video you will know that he building company who own it already did the removal job by hitting it with a bigger hammer than I did 😛
Quadratic Encoder, was the word you was looking for 😊 Probably need High temperature Thermal past for the LED, I think there some made to take 200 deg. C, That will be why is was stuck on like shit to a blanket. 🙂
I think you will find that the cover on the position sensor is tapered one way and reverse tapered the other way which means you can push it on but it is then locked together to prevent removal. The cover is usually destroyed when you try to remove it but it is sometimes possible.
Nope, the plastic body is potted epoxy resin and molded onto the metallic portion of the sensor. The cable gland is also potted in and won't be unscrewed, ever. This is done to prevent fluid contamination compromising the sensor, control logic PCB and wiring terminations cast inside.
I have seen the end of the video with the epilogue news of someone has a bigger hammer than you 😂 just so you know it is there. 😉 I also have a massive hammer, but sadly no instructions 😆
The led is likely bonded to the heat sink using some horrifically strong thermal permanent epoxy adhesive like Arctic Alumina. Your options for removing such a strongly bonded unit are limited. The mechanical method is to use a vertical mill or a woodworking router set up so that the cutting bit doesn't quite touch the heat sink. I've done it that way and it worked well. The cutting bit atomized the board and the epoxy leaving the heatsink untouched. You could also freeze the epoxy with liquid nitrogen so that it crystalizes and then shatter it but few people have access to liquid nitrogen. A final method would be a heat up a thin scraper blade to 600C. That temperature is at the limit of what the epoxy can withstand but just below the melting point of the heat sink. Tap the hot blade under the LED and try your luck. The blade will cool rapidly on contact with the heatsink so you might have to have several goes at it.
But what is the price? Probably this one and it's siblings are on somebody's terrace/baclony or around the swimming pool. So let's say they have six of them. If the original (matching) type is not available are they going to fit an odd one out, our are they going to replace all of them for some other new matching ones. Of course they are going to replace all of them, yeah, so what is that €600 to €900 plus pay someone to fit them? Surely the cost effective answer is to repair this one even if it cost €100 or so.
@@BTW... So any time the relatively long wire has a broken lead, that's it? That seems to be so wasteful. Surely you can pot the base of the connector while leaving the electrical contacts outside, ready for a connector to connect the wire to? Unless you are dealing with caustic gases and/or liquids, that should suffice, or not?
@@LarixusSnydes These are made small to fit into small locations on the machine, with perhaps a light mechanical cover. External plugs sockets on the device are large and present as a environmental contamination risk. In some cases explosive gas present, notwithstanding this device is not intrinsically safe rated. The same applies to most industrial rated proximity sensors... no plug or connection terminals. If there are plug/socket (rare) they are large well engineered enclosures for cables twice the diameter of that, or if not enclosed require the application of specific grease to preclude moisture, even if they are IP56 rated. Plug terminals corrode, simple as that. The only rotary encoders I've encountered that have internal field cable terminations are enclosed in an explosion proof housing (sensor housing) with integral cable glands explosion rated. These were quad count Veeder-Root encoders, mainly used in petrol pumps and heavy industrial applications, where the control device (plc or counter) was located many metres away. I've no idea what sort of machine that comes from... saw, lathe, mill, production machine like an injection molder etc. BUT, industrial machines are frequently subject to large amounts of fluid and particle contamination. If the lead is damaged it need better protection from strain or repetitive movement. If the fault is electronic failure from static discharge or over-voltage, which happens, then the manufacturer should be informed so they can protect from that failure mode.
High quality Omeron industrial sensors (very wide range of types) have molded cases and NO field terminal connections - long lead just like that shown. It's been that way for decades.
Possible heater element is 901671E from heat-outdoors which is a co in UK. I think you understand what I mean. Edit: also from shadowindustrial who appear to be the manufacturers and may be a little cheaper.
Nice video/tutorial Richard, very educating, will catch you on live feed sometime!
Richard I really enjoy your episodes of repairing on this channel.
I am a fixer/repairer from many years of working in broadcast tv and as an electrician.
Even so watching you work through problem solving faults on equipment still helps me to learn another approach or technique.
We are never too young, or in my case too old, to learn.
Thank you 😁
Hi Richard could you cut back the outer insulation a couple of inches and then pull the wires individually if the copper is broken in any of the wires it will snap at this point and then if you lucky it will break at the point where it comes out the gland. I have fixed many a flex using this method
Good point
It’s an Encoder position sensor .. once known as a quantizer wheel in Numerical Controlled machine tool (aka CNC) lingo.
It looks like they epoxy glued it together.
Try Boil it in a cheap kettle with the lid removed if you read this Richard.
Job 3 is a lot like the heatsink on video card GPUs in the very early 2000's. They were epoxied onto the top of the chip and couldn't be removed without damaging the chip. In your case the heatsink it just aluminium so get a chisel and belt it with a proper hammer and it should come off... you may need to belt it several times ;-)
After you get it off file down the heatsink to remove all the scuff marks and old epoxy glue so the new part sits flat. Obviously just use some thermal grease since it has 2 screws holding it on. This is yet another company who knows which part will fail and doesn't want it to be taken apart and fixed.
14:35 With the - Organic capacitor discharge facility - 1980s SafeBlock just like mine with metal wire clips, we used them on the production line to make Hotpoint / Bendix tumble driers in Padiham UK
Greetings:
Speculative explanation: The optical shaft encoder may have a second set of allen or similar screws under the short screws already removed that secure the top metal to the lower non-metal section. it would appear that the top-most nut above the rotating portion is used to secure the whole assembly to a moveable plate that rotates separately from the black shaft center control. The removed screws on the lower ring simply are there to keep the shaft connected to its internal connection.
On the shaft encoder, maybe some heat from your heat gun would help to expand the aluminium case and ease it off. But it looks like it's glued together for reliability, haha.
2:24 - That’s an encoder, Rich. It’s used for precise positioning of a DC motor. As Leigh shines through evenly spaced slits on a disk pulses are output on the leads.
47:23 - Next time you’re by any shop, pick up a bottle of Coke. That stuff will eat through _anything_ better than I’ve ever seen! On second thought, it might eat away the heatsink!
With the rotary encoder, you may be able to do brain surgery on it without dismantling by doing the continuity testing with a pin probe on the encoder end and piercing the insulation as far in as you can reach and hopefully if you can identify the culprit, do the micro-surgery on that wire and fix the intermittent problem.
Have you tried to apply your hot air station to the LED as it may loosen the adhesive. If the heat sink wasn't Aluminum I would have suggested the Led was fixed to the heatsink with solder (solder paste).
I would not use hammer and chisel (screwdriver) as you mat scratch the bedding surface for the new Led.
Applying heat to the old led until it gives up, given its the sacrificial part, is the way forward.
If that LED is epoxied to the heatsink, an overnight soak in lacquer thinner will work.
Richard, That is an encoder. As the shaft turns the lines are counted which tells the computer how far the axis that the encoder is mounted on has traveled. depending on direction of rotation the lines are either added or subtracted.
With regards to the Bluetooth on the heater is probably communicates with the controller/thermostat/timer, many places use a lot of these for large area heating.
Wow, seeing you at work, is fantastic, its like a great chef, you know what goes together and the reasons, its the availability and there are now more and more, unrepairable, which is not good for the environment, so i think theres a bigger message to have the basics at least, but better still, full courses, I believe it would create interests and repair, if parts can be made, because the repairs are simple and a switch a thermal sensor, a bio thermal by strip temp regulator! Ive just replaced two parts and still no heat, element is alloy fins, with two leads one at each end, with heat sheaths covering, flex!
Heya, it is very nice to see some other stuf repairs even if it's (not) easy to repair. just to give an idea of what differant elektronics are used these days
On a bad day? You still rock. ☺
If it is epoxy glued then heating the led element would soften the bond
About the only way I could figure to get that LED off the heatsink would be a sharp chisel and hammer. A chisel has a good slope to lift, and the flat side shouldn't mar the heatsink too much.
As for the rotary optical encoder (is what they are called in the biz ;) ), likely it is a press-fit assembly, which would require a specialized jig to open. Down side is that the encoder wheels are typically glass, so too much shock and, well, you have sand and shards. :P
Pays to check the basics first like the switch or cabling for faults or breaks.. then the components that start the circuit like fuses or 0 Ω resistors.. then the rectifiers and fetts. Then caps for correct readings.. then cold solder joints..
Hi Richard, I wanted to suggest you find someone with a CNC and mill the LED off the heatsink. It would take just a few minutes to get it off, but then I saw the Epilogue. So maybe next time 😀
I think the lamp you're after is possibly a LiangDi Sunkare LHW 552mm 2000W. If you Google it there are a handful of places that appear to have them available.
Richard have you tried applying heat to the LED to remove it from the heatsink, as for the encoder as someone else said it is probably been glued together with epoxy !! have a great weekend !!
The LED was removed from the heatsink by the guys who own it. Did you see the epilogue? They just hit it with a bigger hammer than i did
The first one maybe those screws are removed to access the screws at the bottom with a long Allen.
Good old wood chisel for the led may do it
Already done - did you watch the video to the end?
Rotary Pulse Encoder - quad counting to determine direction of rotation. Test using a 2chan oscilloscopes, tracing the output curve that moves in a square form. Speed determined by the number of pulses per min. Could have 1000 pulse per 360 degrees of shaft rotation. Distance measured by use of a precision circumference wheel that contacts the job or work table.
You won't open something that has been molded onto the metallic body.
Think that first one rotary encoder they use what is known as Gray Code what you were explaining with the solder masks.
The cable looks to have a burnt ring on the outside of the motor, maybe cut the jacket and peel it back to take a look, it looks to be the problem area
New electronics repair hobbyist here. I appreciate your content so much, thank you!!
I recently got a device that was plugged into an 9V AC power supply instead of the correct 9V DC PSU. Now it doesn't power up. Do you think the device could be fixable?
Its called a positional encoder...used to measure rotation angle and direction or distance traveled etc. Very common but not usually fixable unless its just the cable
It is just the cable, but I still can't fix it
LED issue, propane torch from back side of heatsink.
Isent the white tubular thing below u2 marking a fuse if not what is it
On the big LED, try heating it up in an oven, then mount the heat sink in a vise, grab the LED board with vise grips and try to yank/twist it out.
Those LEDs run very hot anyway, but of you watched all the video you will know that he building company who own it already did the removal job by hitting it with a bigger hammer than I did 😛
Quadratic Encoder, was the word you was looking for 😊
Probably need High temperature Thermal past for the LED, I think there some made to take 200 deg. C, That will be why is was stuck on like shit to a blanket. 🙂
With the heater I was wondering if that white connector block thing is actually a fuse holder?
Nope, just a ceramic connector. These quartz halogen lamps get very hot and that heat passes along copper or nickle cables.
When I first saw this device I think it is a motor resolver, commonly used on CNC spindle control
I think you will find that the cover on the position sensor is tapered one way and reverse tapered the other way which means you can push it on but it is then locked together to prevent removal. The cover is usually destroyed when you try to remove it but it is sometimes possible.
Nope, the plastic body is potted epoxy resin and molded onto the metallic portion of the sensor. The cable gland is also potted in and won't be unscrewed, ever.
This is done to prevent fluid contamination compromising the sensor, control logic PCB and wiring terminations cast inside.
The LED is likely soldered to the Al heatsink.
how?
@@yasswaddah4098 The LED was already removed from the heatsink by the end of the video but a lot of viewers seem to have missed that 🤔
I'm thinking that button on the heater is for pairing maybe.
could that red compound be locktite RED, have seen linear amplifiers fastened that way to heat sinks
yup time to bust out a torch
Hi Rich. I am looking for a "safe block" and can't find one. Is there another name for them? Paul
rather than hitting it with a narrow screwdriver, try using a wide spreader/scraper type tool.
Twist the LED off, super glue will break the same way.
What can it be if fuse keep blowing it 5a or 10a on speaker amplifier any advice on it 6 fuse so far keep blowing
I have seen the end of the video with the epilogue news of someone has a bigger hammer than you 😂 just so you know it is there. 😉
I also have a massive hammer, but sadly no instructions 😆
The led is likely bonded to the heat sink using some horrifically strong thermal permanent epoxy adhesive like Arctic Alumina. Your options for removing such a strongly bonded unit are limited. The mechanical method is to use a vertical mill or a woodworking router set up so that the cutting bit doesn't quite touch the heat sink. I've done it that way and it worked well. The cutting bit atomized the board and the epoxy leaving the heatsink untouched. You could also freeze the epoxy with liquid nitrogen so that it crystalizes and then shatter it but few people have access to liquid nitrogen. A final method would be a heat up a thin scraper blade to 600C. That temperature is at the limit of what the epoxy can withstand but just below the melting point of the heat sink. Tap the hot blade under the LED and try your luck. The blade will cool rapidly on contact with the heatsink so you might have to have several goes at it.
If you watch until the end, he got the LED off.
@45:48 yeah i know it hurts to use your hand as an hammer lol!
Try heating up the heat sink and then using a wide blade wood chisel
The heatsink problem was already solved in the video 🙄
Mando a distancia(remote control)
I've got a large infrared heater on the bench too, with no replacement bulb for it to be found. Or if I can find one, it's not worth the price. :s
But what is the price? Probably this one and it's siblings are on somebody's terrace/baclony or around the swimming pool. So let's say they have six of them. If the original (matching) type is not available are they going to fit an odd one out, our are they going to replace all of them for some other new matching ones. Of course they are going to replace all of them, yeah, so what is that €600 to €900 plus pay someone to fit them? Surely the cost effective answer is to repair this one even if it cost €100 or so.
@@LearnElectronicsRepair the one I have isn't for a customer, but a curbside find. 😄
BIN IT
very bad situation especially that horribly sealed motor😅
2:28 Some manufacturers called it Rotary Switch.
It’s a rotary encoder. They give out a pulse which is used to determine the position, speed and direction of axis travel on CNC machines.
Ah, use a f* angle grinder and gone is the LED 😄
when you said you don't have the firmware !!! doesn't he have another one that is working and can't you read the firmware off of that one ?????
most commercial devices wont allow reading
Db9 plug rich
That Italian rotation sensor of the saw is such a bad design. You want to have a connector at the end. Not a bunch of wires coming out.
You don't want a connector there at all. It's fully potted off with resin to prevent any moisture or particle ingress.
@@BTW... So any time the relatively long wire has a broken lead, that's it? That seems to be so wasteful. Surely you can pot the base of the connector while leaving the electrical contacts outside, ready for a connector to connect the wire to? Unless you are dealing with caustic gases and/or liquids, that should suffice, or not?
@@LarixusSnydes These are made small to fit into small locations on the machine, with perhaps a light mechanical cover. External plugs sockets on the device are large and present as a environmental contamination risk. In some cases explosive gas present, notwithstanding this device is not intrinsically safe rated. The same applies to most industrial rated proximity sensors... no plug or connection terminals. If there are plug/socket (rare) they are large well engineered enclosures for cables twice the diameter of that, or if not enclosed require the application of specific grease to preclude moisture, even if they are IP56 rated. Plug terminals corrode, simple as that.
The only rotary encoders I've encountered that have internal field cable terminations are enclosed in an explosion proof housing (sensor housing) with integral cable glands explosion rated. These were quad count Veeder-Root encoders, mainly used in petrol pumps and heavy industrial applications, where the control device (plc or counter) was located many metres away.
I've no idea what sort of machine that comes from... saw, lathe, mill, production machine like an injection molder etc. BUT, industrial machines are frequently subject to large amounts of fluid and particle contamination.
If the lead is damaged it need better protection from strain or repetitive movement.
If the fault is electronic failure from static discharge or over-voltage, which happens, then the manufacturer should be informed so they can protect from that failure mode.
High quality Omeron industrial sensors (very wide range of types) have molded cases and NO field terminal connections - long lead just like that shown. It's been that way for decades.
That's some serious hair.
Possible heater element is 901671E from heat-outdoors which is a co in UK. I think you understand what I mean.
Edit: also from shadowindustrial who appear to be the manufacturers and may be a little cheaper.
you are right
Cant Fix Them All...
Its drunken snap-on video.
Would 2KW Heater ELEMENT TUBE replacement bulb suits Kiam KMH-20R ebay 124008498877 fit?
Thanks I'll take a look