This was the exact issue on my 95 F-150. I was having all kinds of strange problems, like the Check Engine light would come on when I started the truck and the engine would run very poorly and with barely any power. I put a new MAP sensor in, along with a new ignition control module, but those didn't help. Then the issue went away for two months, and then came back and got worse and worse. Then the engine would cut out while driving randomly. I was skeptical that the EEC was going bad since it was fine for two months until I came across your video. I checked, and sure enough, the truck was continuously priming the fuel pump. I replaced the three capacitors (at least two of them had leaked), and it fixed it. Thank you! Warning to others: the solder pads lift very easily, even without scraping the rubber coating off, so be extra careful.
Ha, ha, ha,,,,... THANKS for your personal input.... This is exactly what my 93 F-150 TRK is doing.....! All the steps you did I also did.. Plus,, I had to go through in a rear tank fuel pump R&R due to the FORD fuel pump recall. Due to fuel coming out of the service cap.. However I had a belief the ECM was failing. I plan to do a R&R ECM. The sad thing is getting quality parts from FORD on these old TRUCKS, they are not there. Only CRAP low quality SPECs from CHINA.. So my TRUCK is out of commission and I will buy a replacement rebuilt ECM..
Just had to replace mine in my 96 5.0 150. Would keep throwing o2 sensor codes, and we would keep replacing them, and they would just come back. It ran like shit intermittently, had low idle or too high of an idle, and overly long fuel pump priming. After replacing the ecu a month ago, I've had zero issues since.
How and what capacitors did you replace if you don't mind me asking I just replaced my computer with a remanufactured for 150 because I wasn't getting power to the inertia switch and running like shit I could jump relay and get it to crank without relay in but ran like shit I put the knew one in and it stopped it did fine for a few days it gets power to the inertia switch but now is doing exactly what yours is doing except when the fuel pump stays on it will not start at all..... what would be the best way to fix this idk if it has a warranty or not I'm assuming it doesn't
Thanks for sharing, I'm having this exact problem with my 1993 XLT 4.9L. ordered new one from auto zone and now the fuel pump won't even turn on. So they ordered me another one. Wish me luck y'all 🤘😎
I saw another helpful UA-cam video similar to this one. I replaced both fuel pumps truck drove fine for 2 days. Then the idling misfire problems came back to haunt me again. So I replaced map sensor, upper intake gasket for the removal of the 6 injectors that were (Quality rebuilt stock 14lb fuel injectors w/ lifetime warranty), throttle body gasket, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay fuse, cap & rotor, coil, plugs checked good, ignition control module, tps sensor, IAC valve. Damn whats left to do...guess its the computer now..smh. The pump did sometimes stay on after I use my OBD1 scanner (which it can't read anything anymore). When it did work it gave a code 334 for the egr crap. I did a delete with a block plate and plugged in a sensor plug to throw off the C.E.L ..I'd hate to give up on my truck. I pulled out my ecu removed the back plate off & saw the 3 blue capacitors burned, rusted looking. I sent my ecu off to get it repaired. Hopefully this fix my problem. I love my truck and miss driving it.
@@catalinaramirez6495 Yes the ecu did the fix, however shortly afterwards my 2nd cylinder dropped alot of compression 39-45psi compared to the other good cylinders. So I decided to have my engine rebuilt. I almost sold it but changed my mind.
Replaced almost everything on my foxbody and months later only thing left was ecu and that was the issue the entire time, only good thing I got out of it I learned alot lol
Just anew update everyone..aside from having my engine rebuilt I just had the top half redone. Head resurfaced, new valves, pushrods, fel pro cylinder head gasket kit installed. Had everything put back together but removed my emissions system removed such as (air pump bypassed), hoses etc. Used a shorter belt and blocked off the air holes in the head. Truck runs perfectly fine now..I'm happy I must say..!
@@gaddy8964 i work in same rebuilt 4.9 but today i cant read the codes so i think in 3 capacitors burn, whit the key on the pump run constantly😔😔😔😔 the good notice i have a lot capacitors all ohms🤭🤭🤭😏😏😏 Edit: the truck dont run just crank
Thank you for this video! I have been trying to diagnose this exact intermittent issue, and found a thread today that suggested the EEC might be at fault here. Sounds like that's probably the case indeed. Thanks again!
When my last ecm died it did the same thing. Fuel pumps would never stop priming. I had a backup I had to throw in. Now that backup started doing weird stuff but neither of them were rebuilt. Just leaky capacitors I'm sure. The dead ecm had a cap that blew off or corroded on one side so it wasn't even a complete circuit anymore. With that ecm the truck would randomly die sometimes too. Or it would have a lot of trouble starting. I ordered up the wrong ecm supposedly and it ran the truck fine but the shift points were all off. 785881 cardone. Supposedly I need the 785883 or 84. That's the last 2 I've had that seemed to work fine until the capacitors leaked. Wish I knew the difference between the 10 or so different ones they used haha.
Had to replace my EEC unit in my Bronco, a cap leaked and changed how load was calculated in the EEC unit. This caused the Torque converter to lock and unlock randomly . This has caused overheating of the trans and torque converter damage and I currently need a new E4OD.
THANKS for the informative YOU-TUBE.... This is exactly what my 93 F-150 TRK is doing.....! All the steps you did I also did.. Plus,, I had to go through in a rear tank fuel pump R&R due to the FORD fuel pump recall. Due to fuel coming out of the service cap.. However I had a belief the ECM was failing. I plan to do a R&R ECM. The sad thing is getting quality parts from FORD on these old TRUCKS, they are not there. Only CRAP low quality SPECs from CHINA.. So my TRUCK is out of commission and I will buy a replacement rebuilt ECM..
@@xzqzq On a follow UP, I got the ECM tested/repaired and re programed at AUTO ZONE who mailed off my ECM off to the AUTOMOTIVE COMPANY called BLUE STREAK down to FL. It took 6 weeks to get it returned. The rebuilt ECM works great, for my 1993 F-150 no problems.. Auto Zone has a customer program were they can mail off your ECM to get it tested/overhauled or get a repaired one replacement. I wanted my original one off my TRUCK repaired...
@@RAF-FIG Thanks for the info. I got tired of screwing around with the truck, and simply parked it....since the wife is asking me to do something with it, might give it another try....have replacement sensors for coolant system to install...will check the ECM, also.
@@xzqzq I guess you don't have anything better to do or worthwhile to add besides Grammer checking 5 month old posts. Go fk yourself bub and quit wasting my time.
Back probing from the component failure will 99% of the time, lead directly to a faulty PCM/ECM on these Fords. The components on the circuit board have a 15 year shelf life, at best.
The capacitors are usually the failure point. Definitely easy to replace but if you let it go too long, the electrolyte leakage can damage the circuit board.
When my computer messed up it ran fine, prime according the only issue i had was i lost O/D. After looking over all the connection, changing shift packs and checking things out i took the computer out(very easy to get out), and seen a wire had come loose. So i put back together ordered a reman computer. Put the reman computer in and there was over drive back. Me happy and it was $180 for part
Is this my problem?? 86 f150 carb 302.. ran great... started to die while driving, like slowly loosing power as if battery was dead. I thought alternator went out. Got home expecting dead battery since I assumed I drove 10 miles home on just battery. Volts showed 12.08v... any help/thoughts greatly appreciated
Thank you so much! I have a 1993 f150 4.9 that is having this same problem. If I hear the fuel pump turn on then off when I turn the key, it will start every time. But if the fuel pump stays running it turns over but won’t start. Definitely going to replace this
Hey man ik this is random but we have the same truck 93 150 4.9 i have a problem no research has helped me when u put ur key in the ignition to start it do u hear an obnoxious buzzing sound that goes away like 10 secs after it starts up?
My dad's 94 keept acting up. The fuel pump would keep running and it wouldn't start. But it turned out to be the number one relay in the distribution box, not the eec.
Interesting!! I’m going thru similar issues on my 94 right now. I’ll look at the number one relay. Can you see a problem by looking at it or how do you test a relay?
@@1982MCI swap number one relay with the horn relay because all four relays the little black square boxes they are all the same exact relay you can swap them see how it runs after you plug another one in
This video was years ago. Fast forward to now and the capacitors are pretty much guaranteed to need replacing if they haven't been done. I'm starting to see cap failures on other modules now too.
My 95 f150 did that it was the distributor My 96 has a crank sensor the last year of these trucks has a obd2 computer bolth truck have 5.8 but the 96 has a different firing order I've also learned never run the secondary fuel tank out of fuel and try to switch to the main tank it doesn't work there also is a I think its cald a diode in the instrument cluster if it goes bad it wont run I just go to salvage yards and get computers and the icm it's on the driver's fender ignition control module The distributor runs the fuel pumps when it goes bad the fuel pump stays on builds no pressure it circulates the fuel to the front tank it will drain the rear tank into the front its connected to the icm in the fender you can also get a polack switch on line to run another tank in the bed and the diesel trucks have the fuel lines running into a fuel filter under the driver's side on the frame just past the front tank they have problems with them to these fuel systems are nice when the work but they are a pain in the back side when the dont now I have five of these trucks my favorite one is the swb single cab 4x4 it's so low geared you can get out and walk beside it
I have a 1995 f150 4.9l the fuel pump died a couple of weeks back ran great for about a week then started, cutting out and hesitation you shut it off start it back up everything seems fine again I replaced the map sensor, ignition module fuel filter still has the problem, UP DATE new fuel was bad
Me too if replaced fuel pump twice now I cant even go up hills with out jerking and slowing down to 30mph I have a 91 7.5 lariat the fuel pump sometimes stays on sometimes not sucks ballz
Thanks for this video #pfun41. There is some really good info in the comments as well, which I'll add to my check it list (battery, distributor, solenoid, etc). My 93 Bronco just stopped/died today and I had to get towed. No fuel pump issue...but plenty of others, lol.
I had this problem, and learned it was the ecu, sometimes my truck would not start for 10 minutes, IF YOU HAVE THIS PROBLEM YOU HAVE TO WAIT FOR THE FUEL PUMP TO STOP RUNNING BEFORE IT WILL STOP. I bought a replacement ecu and swapped it out, and now my truck wont idle normal, it idles violently, and dies if i put it in gear
My 1993 Ford F-150 cranks, but doesn't start. Replaced distributor, coil, and computer ( twice ). Truck will start & run, for @ 30 minutes, then die & refuse to start. Any suggestions ?
Hey man my name is Philip and I have a big question to ask you and ask of you I have a 91 F-150 that will fry the computer ignition control module or the coil rarely do you have any ideas what it could be also I recently climbed under the truck don't know why I haven't done it sooner and I noticed the header pipes they put on there's only a right one one right side Bank O2 sensor no downstreams upstreams I'm serious I know how to work on cars pretty decent I can hold my own but I know idiot there needs at least be two banks for a V8 left side and right side other than that do you have any ideas I have mine but I'm trying to get more ideas maybe when I throw the dice down on the table I will get lucky and find it
OBD1 Fords only have one upstream sensor. Sometimes they are in one header pipe, sometimes they are in a crossover pipe just before the cat. It wasn't until OBD2 that they started using sensors on both banks and downstream sensors. You may have a wiring issue or a alternator that's overcharging.
Put the dice down, and learn how to use a period to break up your stream of consciousness rambling thoughts to create simple declarative sentences. Less is more.
To all the people who had the common knowledge and understanding of how to read through basic words and had the common forethought and knowledge to self add commas!. What have you thank you for being an adult yes I yes I have found the problem it is not the pickup coil it is a wire that is broken or corroborated infusible links and these wonderful fords and this year God bless them it's causing this second problem and take a person who was trying to play Mr insult came of putting down the dice my friend put putting your dirt out there you know make yourself look bad I'm a mechanic shade tree we can't get that and if you are assy certified you should be ashamed of yourself because any self-respecting person who is going through some form problems hardships anything like that would honest Christian decent human being to do what these guys did and.... WELL LOL anyways not try to beautifully fail miserably at trying to insult me and if you didn't mean it that way and no you just spend it that way and you wanted to be that cool dick head that you weren't in high school middle school and or elementary School I'm surprised you're even doing okay job at your job because based on how you insult people and everything that's mainly the majority of your time that is spent is coming up within souls and looking at stuff trying to make fun of people and if you don't want to hear an opinion from me then why in the world did you send this message I've put down the dice are you racist are you a pimp do you have a gambling problem because I'm not mentioning the problem but just putting down dice if you're trying to call me a crackhead oh wow you succeeded you really really succeeded what car do you drive again I'm waiting..... Bus..... I guess sorry I'm in an Uber or your current girlfriend you can very tolerates right now and if you do have a wife and God for b**** tolerate that smarter than the mouth you better be watching out for Jody cuz Jody don't care nowI may be going to throw to be pissed at me and for a lack of a better words I don't give a damn so how about be a gentleman and do something that's uncommon for you and sit down and shut up if you don't have nothing important to say and while you're playing that dice game and everything you may want to think about you know how to fix your vehicle God I just can't imagine how people would be this pitiful in this Petty because their life is this sorry and a reality check their people who have way worse lives situations than you do and if you have a good life and you have it all karma is a b**** and she don't forget I'm telling you this because I've seen it multiple times everybody gets what they deserve so check yourself and I mean that wholeheartedly cuz I wish you nothing but the best in the long run other than being a dick I hope you constantly step your toe every morning when you wake up for a week I don't want it to break just a good damn it that hurt and sore toe all day long not broken all with long that's my karma to you I think it's funny cell phone bullies get on here and they run that mouth and we both both can say this can say this I'll beat your butt come meet me where you at we both know most likely we live too far apart but just in case if you live in Westminster South Carolina meet me up I'll give you the weapon that your mother your father and especially your grandmother God rest their souls if they are dead and no disrespect.... Respect for the for doing what they could but again if you live in Westminster South Carolina Georgia North Carolina Tennessee are pretty damn close to where I live so if you live close enough then I'll give you the book The last but whooping they should have gave you an afternoon through open you I'm going to give you a actual spanking like the child you are acting like what your acting like with the belt has or hickory so you wanted to sound big and bad put downt6kdd3d long just one of those UA-cam shorts and I should be able to whoop the respect into you
Could the opposite happen? I have a 1992 F150 that cranks for 4 or 5 seconds before it starts and flutters briefly once it does start. It does that when it hasn’t been started for a couple hours. If you crank it while it’s still warm, it starts perfectly. After it’s running, there are no issues at all.
You probably have a weak fuel pump or the check valve in the fuel pump is leaking. when the truck sits the bad check valve lets the pressure all leak back into the tank and the few seconds at key on isn't enough to fully refill the line and generate enough pressure. Try cycling the key and let it prime a few times when cold and see if it still does it.
Did u swap the computer from the bronco? Just a thought. Im having an issue with my 87 f150. It shuts off while driving or idling. But starts right back up every time
We have a problem too.but when I push on computer from under where emergency brake is.up and towards left.it will stay on.bad connection or grounds.not computer???
I have a 95 Ford pick up with the EC4 computer with OBD 1 can I replace that computer with an EE5 from a 96 truck computer which would give me OBD 2 diagnostics ? Thanks
Its not that simple. 96s have a 1 year only EFI system. Many connectors are different including the EEC. They have a 96 only harmonic balancer and crank sensor plus downstream oxygen sensors. You can make it works but it takes alot of wiring.
I have a 1995 F156 cylinder When I'm Driving it it cut out on mean but it cranked right backup hes backup I don't know what's wrong with it like yeand with it like yesterday when I was driving it I turned a corner coming home own and cut out But a crank right backup with no problem What do you think wrong with it
@pfun41 93-94 ford bounder 7.5l Would start and run for 15-60 sec and die... Key on egine off- fuel pump primes 42lbs and shuts off... If i release the pressure on test gauge, the FP relay does not activate right away and chatters when it does for 5-30 sec.... Fuel pump runs continuously after that.... im leaning towards eec4... any thoughts? Thanks in advane
There is no fuel pressure sensor on these. They run the fuel pump for a predetermined amount of time at key on, then switch it back on when engine rotation is detected. You could have an issue with the relay or the eec.
@pfun41 thanks...... ended up being the computer causing intermittent pump and injector failure.... I figured it out after watching the injectors drop out intermittently.... well, guessed....lol..... Rockauto, I think.... under 200$
My 95 truck did that it was the distributor it has a sensor in the distributor it caused the fuel pump to stay on and put the fuel into the front tank I replaced the distributor and the problem went away my 96 has obd2 it has a crankshaft sensor
Got an issue on a 1994 ford f150 4.9 L6. Cranks but won’t turnover, spray some carb cleaner into the air intake and it’ll turn over but runs rough. Checked entire fuel system and never found an issue (currently have the bed off for fuel pumps). If I try driving it, I’ve gotta slowly press down the pedal to build up speed and it won’t shift into 2nd expect for one time I got it to kick but no idea how it did as when I slowed down again, I couldn’t get it back up. Thinking it’s PCM? Any ideas?
PCM, left kick panel next to clutch pedal. Remove cover,a couple bolts hold in place to the inner cab structure. Then under hood (10mm bolt). PCM port plug (red in color). Back bolt out turning left with 10mm socket (2in ext w/10mm socket and 1/4 ratchet). Port plug is removed as bolt is loosened. Place port plug to the side, proceed to remove the PCM out from the fire wall up towards and out from engine bay. Make sure you get the right PCM that's programed to your trucks specific VIN. Have a 1991 Bronco, 1996 F 350 crew cab 351W, 1988 F 150 300 I6 ext cab 4x4, 1987 Bronco 302 manual transmission. Love my Furds.......Plenty of cussing and wrench throwing, smiles for miles after the fact 😁
They often don't throw any codes or a CEL. There's one or two codes that will be set for an internal memory failure, but often they just start doing weird things.
Have a 94 F250 it's sat for about 3 to 4 months why I was repairing exhaust system and now truck won't start when started up after I got it back together the fuel pump ran and wouldn't shut off
i have an 1989 Ford Bronco 5.0 V8, 5 speed stick, when i am at an idle it goes up & down over and over, i replaced speed control / MAP Sencer and a lot of other things, would a PCM or EEC Cause this to happen ??? I am in Michigan last summer i went up north and back Truck always runs fine about a week after i got back it started doing this ... i am on my witts end with this problem, it has 104,000 miles on it i bought it in 91' it always ran Great, NOT NOW .... PLEASE HELP ...
@@pfun41 The Truck is a 1989 i bought it in 1991 , a few years after i bought it it would want to stall at a stop only when the AC was on, my friend told me he had the same issue & it's your idle speed control , that was the problem , now my truck is doing things a lot different, at a stop the idle goes up & down Over & over
I’m experiencing similar issue. My pumps quit, no priming noise. Before, my pump would keep priming.. how can I purchase a new EEC 4 and can I just put it in or does it have to be programmed and how do I do that..? I have a 1995 f150 4,9l dual tank Eddie Bauer 2 WD southern just replaced fuel pump and week later both pumps quit same time…
I think it's all remans now unless you go used. There is no programming on these, it just has to be compatible with your engine size/transmission/ and injection strategy.
I have. An 87 e150 with 5.0, so when I turn key on I hear pump prime. After I turn it on and drive and idle, I can hear it on. Is that normal (prob dumb question) Obviously it runs fine
I have a 89 f250, last week it started kicking the fuel pump on after shutting the truck off and continuously run. Now my pumps won't kick on at all. Would this cause those issues as well?
@@1982MCI no, it ended up being a relay that was completely corroded on the inside. It was still clicking like it's supposed to just not completing that final connection to send power to the power the pumps. New relay and it fired right up
@@nicksrcadventures6831 AHA! This is some good info which I'll add to my check it list (battery, distributor, solenoid...). My 93 Bronco just stopped/died today and I had to get towed. No fuel pump issue...but plenty of others, lol.
I got a 94 ford f150 i turn the key and I never had a long fuel pump sound whine BUT when I turn it on it starts the wine is loud but after some time that it’s on it stops is that also signs
Thx for vid dude i had 94 ford since 2011 or 12 and i am the 3rd owner my dad being the second i am gonna soon be owning the truck so i geuss i am a future owner or whatever the very first owner did not really take care of it and there has been problems with it since last year or in 2020 but my dad is fixing it up for me thankfully it not happening but i have a big fear that it might happen one day so now i know this symptom Comment date march 8, 2022
Bet you didn't really understand or know this because I didn't A lot of parts are crossover they can cross over the different vehicles A lot of the computers are plug-and-play well if you have a V8 truck 2wd versus like a four wheel drive V8 truck same year same most of everything I'm doing it right now because I have an F-150 that will keep frying their computers one of three things will happen the ECU will blow or the ignition control module will blow very rarely it will kill the coil before I got the truck they tried to hop the motor up and then halfway through they changed their minds so they took the small pump unit and everything off so if you have somebody that has a old school 50 with the small unit they want to you know trade sell I don't care hit me up I will respond to comments may take me a day or two but yeah I've recently put in an ECU out of a I think the junkyard said it was a Grand Marquis or a crown VicI plugged it in and believe it or not the son of a gun works arrow on the side of caution I do not and all cats do not advise anyone doing that I just have an old truck that I really don't care about because he keeps him trying to computers and I can't afford to pay $200 a pop so that's what I do
i have a 93 150 with a 302 and i have recently done a tune up replaced the o2 sensor and the tps cleared the codes and after sitting it starts up and high idles but while in the high idle warmup it acts like it wants to die and the cel will iluminate for a split second then itll go back up to 1200 and run smooth for a bit then itll act up again and do the same thing i had the cel come back on today and it threw a 41 for the o2 sensor which is brand new the harness looked ok and it now has a code 31 for the evp is or was out of range would this be eec related i doubt the evp would cause it to stutter like that and then run fine again
Mine has done this to me 3 times its damp outside and won't crank it stumbles and tries to but won't then after a while it will I will cycle key and here the fuel pump run each time I cycle the key on and off and the tone is different like the first truck
@@pfun41 I'm having random symptoms all over the place, it's gotta be the ecm that's the only thing that makes sense. I've replaced fuel pump, relays, coil, filters, dielectric grease all connectors I can get to, it'll run great and then shut off 2 miles later, drag it home and it cranks again, I was about to switch it over to plain old school set up geez Louise, it's gotta be it, wish me luck, 96 5.0 m5od manual 4x4 stock except dual exhaust and 35s, thanks bud!
Yep my 94 F-150 4.9L MFI OHV 300 CU. Inline 6 5 speed hesitates on startup when I’m using my front fuel tank sputters and doesn’t want to start! But when I switch it to my rear tank it fires up with no problems would this be the same issue with The EEC? Can anyone help me please?
What I want to know is that in comments this is second time I have heard TWO OR BOTH FUEL PUMPS. Is my brain dead or is there actually two fuel pumps, one in tank and second by the inline filter to make pressure to rail???
OBS ford pickups had 2 fuel tanks. On the dash is a switch that can change between them. Broncos only had one large rear tank and the rear window switch takes the place of the tank selector switch. This issue will affect either tank, as the EEC is commanding the fuel pump to run regardless of which tank is selected. IIRC some older models had a low pressure fuel pump in the tank and a high pressure fuel pump on the frame rail.
@@pfun41 I can't find a fuel pump on the rail for any year, only tank selector switch, in dual tanks, each tank has a pump I'm finding. Give me year I can look up to find rail pump and pump in tank. Seems ford would have used one pump and directed flow out of secondary tank to be picked up pump, but then looks as if easier would be to pump gas out of secondary to main, except overfill issues., so far I haven't seen pump on rail, what year has pumps in tank and pump on rail?
Anyone's truck have intermittent problems shifting passed first gear? Or turning the truck on and it's automatically in 4x4? I feel like my truck might get stuck on low gear...
You may have a bad IAC. The market is flooded with garbage quality auto parts, and electromechanical parts are especially prone to issues right out of the box. I had a brand new IAC that never worked right, put the OEM back on after a good cleaning and it's been fine since. That was over a decade ago.
My91 f150 it was a 6 cylinder I started to have those same symptoms but it was very hard to start most all the time but you're not wrong at all but anyways one time when I got it started I swear to God I drove like 2 miles and I could look behind me and see smoke clouds and I burn a quarter of a tank of gas ask if I'm lying I'm dying
My 94 F-250 is leaving the same clouds cause it’s running so rich. I’m actually measuring gallons per mile now instead of miles per gallon. It finally went to a no start condition the other day so now I’m in the process f trying to find a remanufactured ECU now but having trouble locating one now but will change it when I find it! Any luck on yours Phil??
Hope you fixed it but it is computer failure I've done my research and prepared it simple capacitor that is gone week corroded or blown just by age just have to pull the computer and I'm not sure on the exact location look it up on many different UA-cam videos and it will show you the exact capacitor and you can resolder it and check the rest of them replaced ones that you see that are leaking boom problem fixed but you got to get the correct ones so look it up on the video on UA-cam can't tell which one look up ECU repair
Hey man I have a 95 bronco 5.0 having a tricky issue and guessing it’s a very common one . Have a starting issue . Starts up runs great shut it off run inside the store and just cranks with no start wait a little time and starts right up . Replaced just about everything besides the computer and distributer any suggestions would be appreciated
Something is heat soaking. It works fine when cold but fails hot. If it's loosing spark I'd look at the TFI module on the fender or the PIP sensor in the distributor. when it fails does the Tach move when you crank it?
its tucked behind the driver kick panel. look in the engine compartment on the firewall near the drivers side. There's a rectangular connector with a ton of wires coming out of it. That's the PCM connector. Remove that and the 2 bolts holding the bezel around it and you can slide out the pcm. You may need to unbolt the fender liner for clearance.
Would the slow death of an EEC cause engine issues? Poor performance, loss of power and even emissions test failure? The swan song of old Fords apparently...
@@pfun41 Hey thanks for the reply. My 1992 van has been running rough with sporadic issues. I've replaced quite a few relays and sensors. Even the CAT after a failed emissions test. Then it just died one day while running fine, wouldn't start back up. I couldn't hear the fuel pump, so replaced relay, filter, pressure regulator and then eventually the pump. Welllll now when you turn the key on the pump just runs and runs, but the van won't start at all. Bit of googling, now I'm looking at EEC/PCM issues. Sorry for the vehicle issues dump, your vid is helpful - thanks
@@toothpastehombre Yeah Fuel pump being commanded on continuously is usually a sign of EEC trouble. The other symptoms are sporatic and vary wildly from vehicle to vehicle.
I'd bet it would cause engine issues. Because before I checked or even knew to look into the ecu even after changing all the sensors, IAC valve, ignition components the truck still performed poorly after about 5-10minutes of running. It seemed like everything started failing one right another..I'll gladly update my results on this thread once my ecu comes back within 2wks. Best of luck with your truck running right again.
UPDATE..!!! I got my truck computer (ECU) back 12/12/2020 installed it a day later. Good news is that the truck runs like a brand new well oiled sewing machine..! I couldn't be any happier. I crank the truck after installing the ecu and let it ran for 40mins and no change in idle, sound, anything. I knew I was good after 5-10min passed. So I'm convinced that was my problem despite replacing all the sensors, ignition components, fuel pumps, injectors also. With the age of my truck and the pristine condition I try to keep it in eventually those items would've been going bad so no need to worry about replacing any of items anytime soon. The fuel pumps definitely needed changing, but it didn't give me the symptoms like my bad ecu did. If anyone is in the need of their ecu repaired check out this company. www.ebay.com/str/zkboys
2004 v10 king ranch. O'Rileys said needed new alternator my certified mechanic said alternator was fine. Cold weather came and now I'll have lights in cab radio but no crank of starter. I'll have to put jump box on it. Sometimes I have to hold the key for 30 seconds before starter will engage. Anyone have any insight I bought a new battery as positive post has accid build up.
@@pfun41 ty. My E4OD is shifting erratically. Replaced the speedo speed sensor 2x. No improvement. Checked voltage to sensor @ 0-mph, key-on-not-running & got intermittent readings nowhere near and always higher than 1.4 volts, plus the fuel pump runs-on when it should stop once the fuel rail maintains pressure
@@P7777-u7r Thanks. Here's a brain teaser: My EEC's programmed to meet the emissions standards applicable to California. Can it be reprogrammed to meet the Federal EPA emissions standards applicable to Florida?
This was the exact issue on my 95 F-150. I was having all kinds of strange problems, like the Check Engine light would come on when I started the truck and the engine would run very poorly and with barely any power. I put a new MAP sensor in, along with a new ignition control module, but those didn't help. Then the issue went away for two months, and then came back and got worse and worse. Then the engine would cut out while driving randomly. I was skeptical that the EEC was going bad since it was fine for two months until I came across your video. I checked, and sure enough, the truck was continuously priming the fuel pump. I replaced the three capacitors (at least two of them had leaked), and it fixed it. Thank you!
Warning to others: the solder pads lift very easily, even without scraping the rubber coating off, so be extra careful.
Ha, ha, ha,,,,... THANKS for your personal input.... This is exactly what my 93 F-150 TRK is doing.....! All the steps you did I also did.. Plus,, I had to go through in a rear tank fuel pump R&R due to the FORD fuel pump recall. Due to fuel coming out of the service cap.. However I had a belief the ECM was failing. I plan to do a R&R ECM. The sad thing is getting quality parts from FORD on these old TRUCKS, they are not there. Only CRAP low quality SPECs from CHINA.. So my TRUCK is out of commission and I will buy a replacement rebuilt ECM..
What all did you change out?
Just had to replace mine in my 96 5.0 150. Would keep throwing o2 sensor codes, and we would keep replacing them, and they would just come back. It ran like shit intermittently, had low idle or too high of an idle, and overly long fuel pump priming. After replacing the ecu a month ago, I've had zero issues since.
Thanks for the heads up buddy
How and what capacitors did you replace if you don't mind me asking I just replaced my computer with a remanufactured for 150 because I wasn't getting power to the inertia switch and running like shit I could jump relay and get it to crank without relay in but ran like shit I put the knew one in and it stopped it did fine for a few days it gets power to the inertia switch but now is doing exactly what yours is doing except when the fuel pump stays on it will not start at all..... what would be the best way to fix this idk if it has a warranty or not I'm assuming it doesn't
Man I’ve been battling this for months now wondering why the pump wouldn’t cut off and hard to get it to start …. THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO
It is around $200 for EEC on older Ford. I wish they would go back to the old Duraspark ignition.
Thanks for sharing, I'm having this exact problem with my 1993 XLT 4.9L. ordered new one from auto zone and now the fuel pump won't even turn on. So they ordered me another one. Wish me luck y'all 🤘😎
Did it work? Lol
ua-cam.com/video/QYms02G7VRk/v-deo.html explains why the refuerbished one isnt working
I saw another helpful UA-cam video similar to this one. I replaced both fuel pumps truck drove fine for 2 days. Then the idling misfire problems came back to haunt me again. So I replaced map sensor, upper intake gasket for the removal of the 6 injectors that were (Quality rebuilt stock 14lb fuel injectors w/ lifetime warranty), throttle body gasket, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump relay fuse, cap & rotor, coil, plugs checked good, ignition control module, tps sensor, IAC valve. Damn whats left to do...guess its the computer now..smh. The pump did sometimes stay on after I use my OBD1 scanner (which it can't read anything anymore). When it did work it gave a code 334 for the egr crap. I did a delete with a block plate and plugged in a sensor plug to throw off the C.E.L ..I'd hate to give up on my truck. I pulled out my ecu removed the back plate off & saw the 3 blue capacitors burned, rusted looking. I sent my ecu off to get it repaired. Hopefully this fix my problem. I love my truck and miss driving it.
Did it fix it?
@@catalinaramirez6495 Yes the ecu did the fix, however shortly afterwards my 2nd cylinder dropped alot of compression 39-45psi compared to the other good cylinders. So I decided to have my engine rebuilt. I almost sold it but changed my mind.
Replaced almost everything on my foxbody and months later only thing left was ecu and that was the issue the entire time, only good thing I got out of it I learned alot lol
Just anew update everyone..aside from having my engine rebuilt I just had the top half redone. Head resurfaced, new valves, pushrods, fel pro cylinder head gasket kit installed. Had everything put back together but removed my emissions system removed such as (air pump bypassed), hoses etc. Used a shorter belt and blocked off the air holes in the head. Truck runs perfectly fine now..I'm happy I must say..!
@@gaddy8964 i work in same rebuilt 4.9 but today i cant read the codes so i think in 3 capacitors burn, whit the key on the pump run constantly😔😔😔😔 the good notice i have a lot capacitors all ohms🤭🤭🤭😏😏😏
Edit: the truck dont run just crank
Thank you for this video! I have been trying to diagnose this exact intermittent issue, and found a thread today that suggested the EEC might be at fault here. Sounds like that's probably the case indeed. Thanks again!
When my last ecm died it did the same thing. Fuel pumps would never stop priming. I had a backup I had to throw in. Now that backup started doing weird stuff but neither of them were rebuilt. Just leaky capacitors I'm sure. The dead ecm had a cap that blew off or corroded on one side so it wasn't even a complete circuit anymore. With that ecm the truck would randomly die sometimes too. Or it would have a lot of trouble starting. I ordered up the wrong ecm supposedly and it ran the truck fine but the shift points were all off. 785881 cardone. Supposedly I need the 785883 or 84. That's the last 2 I've had that seemed to work fine until the capacitors leaked. Wish I knew the difference between the 10 or so different ones they used haha.
Ur a good dude I figured that just needed a confirmation
You have saved me much grief! I knew it wasn’t the tank mounted pump...now to find a remanufactured ecu
Had to replace my EEC unit in my Bronco, a cap leaked and changed how load was calculated in the EEC unit. This caused the Torque converter to lock and unlock randomly . This has caused overheating of the trans and torque converter damage and I currently need a new E4OD.
Just had e40d changed in my 94 f150, they are a bastard child, had to have one built
THANKS for the informative YOU-TUBE.... This is exactly what my 93 F-150 TRK is doing.....! All the steps you did I also did.. Plus,, I had to go through in a rear tank fuel pump R&R due to the FORD fuel pump recall. Due to fuel coming out of the service cap.. However I had a belief the ECM was failing. I plan to do a R&R ECM. The sad thing is getting quality parts from FORD on these old TRUCKS, they are not there. Only CRAP low quality SPECs from CHINA.. So my TRUCK is out of commission and I will buy a replacement rebuilt ECM..
I want to pull apart my original ECM, see if I can't replace capacitors...on third ECM. They will make the truck run for @ 30 minutes, then dead.
@@xzqzq On a follow UP, I got the ECM tested/repaired and re programed at AUTO ZONE who mailed off my ECM off to the AUTOMOTIVE COMPANY called BLUE STREAK down to FL. It took 6 weeks to get it returned. The rebuilt ECM works great, for my 1993 F-150 no problems.. Auto Zone has a customer program were they can mail off your ECM to get it tested/overhauled or get a repaired one replacement. I wanted my original one off my TRUCK repaired...
@@RAF-FIG Thanks for the info. I got tired of screwing around with the truck, and simply parked it....since the wife is asking me to do something with it, might give it another try....have replacement sensors for coolant system to install...will check the ECM, also.
I fixed what you said and it’s working now my mechanic changed my whole dam engine brand new smh .
Well atleast ya got another motor. Truck should last another 30 years👍
@@johndowe7003 At least.
@@xzqzq I guess you don't have anything better to do or worthwhile to add besides Grammer checking 5 month old posts. Go fk yourself bub and quit wasting my time.
Where is the EEC in a 92 f350 with the 7.5? Does it pull out from the interior or from under the hood behind the tire well?
Back probing from the component failure will 99% of the time, lead directly to a faulty PCM/ECM on these Fords. The components on the circuit board have a 15 year shelf life, at best.
The capacitors are usually the failure point. Definitely easy to replace but if you let it go too long, the electrolyte leakage can damage the circuit board.
When my computer messed up it ran fine, prime according the only issue i had was i lost O/D. After looking over all the connection, changing shift packs and checking things out i took the computer out(very easy to get out), and seen a wire had come loose. So i put back together ordered a reman computer. Put the reman computer in and there was over drive back. Me happy and it was $180 for part
Still running ?
Is this my problem?? 86 f150 carb 302.. ran great... started to die while driving, like slowly loosing power as if battery was dead. I thought alternator went out. Got home expecting dead battery since I assumed I drove 10 miles home on just battery. Volts showed 12.08v... any help/thoughts greatly appreciated
Thank you so much! I have a 1993 f150 4.9 that is having this same problem. If I hear the fuel pump turn on then off when I turn the key, it will start every time. But if the fuel pump stays running it turns over but won’t start. Definitely going to replace this
Hey man ik this is random but we have the same truck 93 150 4.9 i have a problem no research has helped me when u put ur key in the ignition to start it do u hear an obnoxious buzzing sound that goes away like 10 secs after it starts up?
@@ItsKing32 it suppose to make that noise. It sounds like a bee , right?
Seat belt buzzer
If the sound comes from the engine compartment fender it is the cruise control module. Runs for a few seconds when you turn key to ON.
My dad's 94 keept acting up. The fuel pump would keep running and it wouldn't start. But it turned out to be the number one relay in the distribution box, not the eec.
Interesting!! I’m going thru similar issues on my 94 right now. I’ll look at the number one relay. Can you see a problem by looking at it or how do you test a relay?
@@1982MCI swap number one relay with the horn relay because all four relays the little black square boxes they are all the same exact relay you can swap them see how it runs after you plug another one in
@@going5635 I tried that and it’s still dead , did not change a thing. But thanks for the help anyways
I noticed that your temp gauge was pegged to hot even though engine was off.
That is the fuel gauge... temp is left of fuel and not visible.
I recommend if you get a used eec-iv to go ahead and replace the capacitors on the board. Its very simple and easy if you have a soldering iron
This video was years ago. Fast forward to now and the capacitors are pretty much guaranteed to need replacing if they haven't been done. I'm starting to see cap failures on other modules now too.
Good job helping other people out!
My 95 f150 did that it was the distributor
My 96 has a crank sensor the last year of these trucks has a obd2 computer bolth truck have 5.8 but the 96 has a different firing order I've also learned never run the secondary fuel tank out of fuel and try to switch to the main tank it doesn't work there also is a I think its cald a diode in the instrument cluster if it goes bad it wont run I just go to salvage yards and get computers and the icm it's on the driver's fender ignition control module
The distributor runs the fuel pumps when it goes bad the fuel pump stays on builds no pressure it circulates the fuel to the front tank it will drain the rear tank into the front its connected to the icm in the fender you can also get a polack switch on line to run another tank in the bed and the diesel trucks have the fuel lines running into a fuel filter under the driver's side on the frame just past the front tank they have problems with them to these fuel systems are nice when the work but they are a pain in the back side when the dont now I have five of these trucks my favorite one is the swb single cab 4x4 it's so low geared you can get out and walk beside it
I have a 1995 f150 4.9l the fuel pump died a couple of weeks back ran great for about a week then started, cutting out and hesitation you shut it off start it back up everything seems fine again I replaced the map sensor, ignition module fuel filter still has the problem, UP DATE new fuel was bad
Me too if replaced fuel pump twice now I cant even go up hills with out jerking and slowing down to 30mph I have a 91 7.5 lariat the fuel pump sometimes stays on sometimes not sucks ballz
Seems constant long running fuel pump must be old relay issues, if it's hotwired pump runs continuesly
Thanks for this video #pfun41. There is some really good info in the comments as well, which I'll add to my check it list (battery, distributor, solenoid, etc). My 93 Bronco just stopped/died today and I had to get towed. No fuel pump issue...but plenty of others, lol.
Thankfully you can replace the capacitors in the computer and fix your problem
I had this problem, and learned it was the ecu, sometimes my truck would not start for 10 minutes, IF YOU HAVE THIS PROBLEM YOU HAVE TO WAIT FOR THE FUEL PUMP TO STOP RUNNING BEFORE IT WILL STOP.
I bought a replacement ecu and swapped it out, and now my truck wont idle normal, it idles violently, and dies if i put it in gear
These happen on the Econoline vans and Broncos as well.
My 1993 Ford F-150 cranks, but doesn't start. Replaced distributor, coil, and computer ( twice ). Truck will start & run, for @ 30 minutes, then die & refuse to start. Any suggestions ?
Sometimes the ICM will do that, but on that year range it's usually on the distributor.
@@pfun41 THANKS !!
Does the computer need to be grounded/bolted?
Hi I'm looking at a 1995 flareside for sale but apparently only 1 tank working. I've this an easy fix? Thanks
Mine had a combination of the fuel pump running and my injectors cycling with the key on engine off and it flooded my engine
Was it running really bad almost wanting to die then revving up and smoking out the exhaust?
My 96 Ford bronco as a electrical problem with the fuse I think I can't get in going to park till you get out of park
I have a 1990 e150 , my fuel pump does Nott turn on to prime when I turn the key. any thoughts? I do have spark.
Thank You
Bitter sweet video. Confirmed my truck has this problem glad you showed me but sad that’s the case😂
Hey man my name is Philip and I have a big question to ask you and ask of you I have a 91 F-150 that will fry the computer ignition control module or the coil rarely do you have any ideas what it could be also I recently climbed under the truck don't know why I haven't done it sooner and I noticed the header pipes they put on there's only a right one one right side Bank O2 sensor no downstreams upstreams I'm serious I know how to work on cars pretty decent I can hold my own but I know idiot there needs at least be two banks for a V8 left side and right side other than that do you have any ideas I have mine but I'm trying to get more ideas maybe when I throw the dice down on the table I will get lucky and find it
OBD1 Fords only have one upstream sensor. Sometimes they are in one header pipe, sometimes they are in a crossover pipe just before the cat. It wasn't until OBD2 that they started using sensors on both banks and downstream sensors. You may have a wiring issue or a alternator that's overcharging.
Pick up coil... try it
Put the dice down, and learn how to use a period to break up your stream of consciousness rambling thoughts to create simple declarative sentences. Less is more.
To all the people who had the common knowledge and understanding of how to read through basic words and had the common forethought and knowledge to self add commas!. What have you thank you for being an adult yes I yes I have found the problem it is not the pickup coil it is a wire that is broken or corroborated infusible links and these wonderful fords and this year God bless them it's causing this second problem and take a person who was trying to play Mr insult came of putting down the dice my friend put putting your dirt out there you know make yourself look bad I'm a mechanic shade tree we can't get that and if you are assy certified you should be ashamed of yourself because any self-respecting person who is going through some form problems hardships anything like that would honest Christian decent human being to do what these guys did and.... WELL LOL anyways not try to beautifully fail miserably at trying to insult me and if you didn't mean it that way and no you just spend it that way and you wanted to be that cool dick head that you weren't in high school middle school and or elementary School I'm surprised you're even doing okay job at your job because based on how you insult people and everything that's mainly the majority of your time that is spent is coming up within souls and looking at stuff trying to make fun of people and if you don't want to hear an opinion from me then why in the world did you send this message I've put down the dice are you racist are you a pimp do you have a gambling problem because I'm not mentioning the problem but just putting down dice if you're trying to call me a crackhead oh wow you succeeded you really really succeeded what car do you drive again I'm waiting.....
Bus..... I guess sorry I'm in an Uber or your current girlfriend you can very tolerates right now and if you do have a wife and God for b**** tolerate that smarter than the mouth you better be watching out for Jody cuz Jody don't care nowI may be going to throw to be pissed at me and for a lack of a better words I don't give a damn so how about be a gentleman and do something that's uncommon for you and sit down and shut up if you don't have nothing important to say and while you're playing that dice game and everything you may want to think about you know how to fix your vehicle God I just can't imagine how people would be this pitiful in this Petty because their life is this sorry and a reality check their people who have way worse lives situations than you do and if you have a good life and you have it all karma is a b**** and she don't forget I'm telling you this because I've seen it multiple times everybody gets what they deserve so check yourself and I mean that wholeheartedly cuz I wish you nothing but the best in the long run other than being a dick I hope you constantly step your toe every morning when you wake up for a week I don't want it to break just a good damn it that hurt and sore toe all day long not broken all with long that's my karma to you I think it's funny cell phone bullies get on here and they run that mouth and we both both can say this can say this I'll beat your butt come meet me where you at we both know most likely we live too far apart but just in case if you live in Westminster South Carolina meet me up I'll give you the weapon that your mother your father and especially your grandmother God rest their souls if they are dead and no disrespect.... Respect for the for doing what they could but again if you live in Westminster South Carolina Georgia North Carolina Tennessee are pretty damn close to where I live so if you live close enough then I'll give you the book The last but whooping they should have gave you an afternoon through open you I'm going to give you a actual spanking like the child you are acting like what your acting like with the belt has or hickory so you wanted to sound big and bad put downt6kdd3d long just one of those UA-cam shorts and I should be able to whoop the respect into you
Where can I get the floor mat that goes over the trans like that?
lots of different forms used this computer. i’m guessin not just any EEC-IV will do?
No, it needs to be same options and same strategy. Even if its the same engine/trans combo it still might not work.
Could the opposite happen? I have a 1992 F150 that cranks for 4 or 5 seconds before it starts and flutters briefly once it does start. It does that when it hasn’t been started for a couple hours. If you crank it while it’s still warm, it starts perfectly. After it’s running, there are no issues at all.
You probably have a weak fuel pump or the check valve in the fuel pump is leaking. when the truck sits the bad check valve lets the pressure all leak back into the tank and the few seconds at key on isn't enough to fully refill the line and generate enough pressure. Try cycling the key and let it prime a few times when cold and see if it still does it.
The glow plugs in the gas tank are warming up. 😭
Did u swap the computer from the bronco? Just a thought. Im having an issue with my 87 f150. It shuts off while driving or idling. But starts right back up every time
We have a problem too.but when I push on computer from under where emergency brake is.up and towards left.it will stay on.bad connection or grounds.not computer???
Fuel gauge didn't move is that related to the EEC issue?
I have a 95 Ford pick up with the EC4 computer with OBD 1 can I replace that computer with an EE5 from a 96 truck computer which would give me OBD 2 diagnostics ? Thanks
Its not that simple. 96s have a 1 year only EFI system. Many connectors are different including the EEC. They have a 96 only harmonic balancer and crank sensor plus downstream oxygen sensors. You can make it works but it takes alot of wiring.
Would this cause a low fuel pressure..? My cars pump is new and its the 2nd i replaced
I have a 1995 F156 cylinder When I'm Driving it it cut out on mean but it cranked right backup hes backup I don't know what's wrong with it like yeand with it like yesterday when I was driving it I turned a corner coming home own and cut out But a crank right backup with no problem What do you think wrong with it
@pfun41 93-94 ford bounder 7.5l
Would start and run for 15-60 sec and die...
Key on egine off- fuel pump primes 42lbs and shuts off...
If i release the pressure on test gauge, the FP relay does not activate right away and chatters when it does for 5-30 sec....
Fuel pump runs continuously after that.... im leaning towards eec4... any thoughts?
Thanks in advane
There is no fuel pressure sensor on these. They run the fuel pump for a predetermined amount of time at key on, then switch it back on when engine rotation is detected. You could have an issue with the relay or the eec.
@pfun41 thanks...... ended up being the computer causing intermittent pump and injector failure.... I figured it out after watching the injectors drop out intermittently.... well, guessed....lol.....
Rockauto, I think.... under 200$
My 95 truck did that it was the distributor it has a sensor in the distributor it caused the fuel pump to stay on and put the fuel into the front tank I replaced the distributor and the problem went away my 96 has obd2 it has a crankshaft sensor
Got an issue on a 1994 ford f150 4.9 L6. Cranks but won’t turnover, spray some carb cleaner into the air intake and it’ll turn over but runs rough. Checked entire fuel system and never found an issue (currently have the bed off for fuel pumps). If I try driving it, I’ve gotta slowly press down the pedal to build up speed and it won’t shift into 2nd expect for one time I got it to kick but no idea how it did as when I slowed down again, I couldn’t get it back up. Thinking it’s PCM? Any ideas?
PCM, left kick panel next to clutch pedal. Remove cover,a couple bolts hold in place to the inner cab structure. Then under hood (10mm bolt). PCM port plug (red in color). Back bolt out turning left with 10mm socket (2in ext w/10mm socket and 1/4 ratchet). Port plug is removed as bolt is loosened. Place port plug to the side, proceed to remove the PCM out from the fire wall up towards and out from engine bay. Make sure you get the right PCM that's programed to your trucks specific VIN. Have a 1991 Bronco, 1996 F 350 crew cab 351W, 1988 F 150 300 I6 ext cab 4x4, 1987 Bronco 302 manual transmission. Love my Furds.......Plenty of cussing and wrench throwing, smiles for miles after the fact 😁
What are some common codes thrown?
They often don't throw any codes or a CEL. There's one or two codes that will be set for an internal memory failure, but often they just start doing weird things.
Have a 94 F250 it's sat for about 3 to 4 months why I was repairing exhaust system and now truck won't start when started up after I got it back together the fuel pump ran and wouldn't shut off
alot of these trucks seem to have issues with water intrusion around the EEC connector.
@@pfun41 I put a whole different computer in it now I'm rebuilding the wiring harness for the engine
i have an 1989 Ford Bronco 5.0 V8, 5 speed stick, when i am at an idle it goes up & down over and over, i replaced speed control / MAP Sencer and a lot of other things, would a PCM or EEC Cause this to happen ???
I am in Michigan last summer i went up north and back Truck always runs fine about a week after i got back it started doing this ...
i am on my witts end with this problem, it has 104,000 miles on it i bought it in 91' it always ran Great, NOT NOW .... PLEASE HELP ...
The EEC can cause all sorts of weird problems. But the IAC controls idle rpm.
@@pfun41 Thanks much for the reply, this issue has stump me for a while now, What is the IAC ?
@@pfun41 The Truck is a 1989 i bought it in 1991 , a few years after i bought it it would want to stall at a stop only when the AC was on, my friend told me he had the same issue & it's your idle speed control , that was the problem , now my truck is doing things a lot different, at a stop the idle goes up & down Over & over
I’m experiencing similar issue. My pumps quit, no priming noise. Before, my pump would keep priming.. how can I purchase a new EEC 4 and can I just put it in or does it have to be programmed and how do I do that..? I have a 1995 f150 4,9l dual tank Eddie Bauer 2 WD southern just replaced fuel pump and week later both pumps quit same time…
I think it's all remans now unless you go used. There is no programming on these, it just has to be compatible with your engine size/transmission/ and injection strategy.
I have. An 87 e150 with 5.0, so when I turn key on I hear pump prime. After I turn it on and drive and idle, I can hear it on. Is that normal (prob dumb question)
Obviously it runs fine
Thanks
I pulled mine to look at it and it looks brand new inside. But it just keeps flooding and running really rich.
That could be any number of things not EEC related. But they can also fail without any physical symptoms.
Do these trucks have a seatbelt buzzer and a that door ding or are they the same module
Mind could literally be unplugged under the dash . Best decision ever
I have a 89 f250, last week it started kicking the fuel pump on after shutting the truck off and continuously run. Now my pumps won't kick on at all. Would this cause those issues as well?
It could yes. Did you replace the ecu yet?
@@1982MCI no, it ended up being a relay that was completely corroded on the inside. It was still clicking like it's supposed to just not completing that final connection to send power to the power the pumps. New relay and it fired right up
@@nicksrcadventures6831 AHA! This is some good info which I'll add to my check it list (battery, distributor, solenoid...). My 93 Bronco just stopped/died today and I had to get towed. No fuel pump issue...but plenty of others, lol.
I got a 94 ford f150 i turn the key and I never had a long fuel pump sound whine BUT when I turn it on it starts the wine is loud but after some time that it’s on it stops is that also signs
My 87 broncos fuel pump wont prime at all (on the odd occasion) what could cause that?
If it doesn't run ever then its likely an issue with the circuit.
Thx for vid dude i had 94 ford since 2011 or 12 and i am the 3rd owner my dad being the second i am gonna soon be owning the truck so i geuss i am a future owner or whatever the very first owner did not really take care of it and there has been problems with it since last year or in 2020 but my dad is fixing it up for me thankfully it not happening but i have a big fear that it might happen one day so now i know this symptom
Comment date march 8, 2022
Bet you didn't really understand or know this because I didn't A lot of parts are crossover they can cross over the different vehicles A lot of the computers are plug-and-play well if you have a V8 truck 2wd versus like a four wheel drive V8 truck same year same most of everything I'm doing it right now because I have an F-150 that will keep frying their computers one of three things will happen the ECU will blow or the ignition control module will blow very rarely it will kill the coil before I got the truck they tried to hop the motor up and then halfway through they changed their minds so they took the small pump unit and everything off so if you have somebody that has a old school 50 with the small unit they want to you know trade sell I don't care hit me up I will respond to comments may take me a day or two but yeah I've recently put in an ECU out of a I think the junkyard said it was a Grand Marquis or a crown VicI plugged it in and believe it or not the son of a gun works arrow on the side of caution I do not and all cats do not advise anyone doing that I just have an old truck that I really don't care about because he keeps him trying to computers and I can't afford to pay $200 a pop so that's what I do
i have a 93 150 with a 302 and i have recently done a tune up replaced the o2 sensor and the tps cleared the codes and after sitting it starts up and high idles but while in the high idle warmup it acts like it wants to die and the cel will iluminate for a split second then itll go back up to 1200 and run smooth for a bit then itll act up again and do the same thing i had the cel come back on today and it threw a 41 for the o2 sensor which is brand new the harness looked ok and it now has a code 31 for the evp is or was out of range would this be eec related i doubt the evp would cause it to stutter like that and then run fine again
You could have an EGR problem which is causing the EVP readings to not line up with what the computer is expecting.
Mine has done this to me 3 times its damp outside and won't crank it stumbles and tries to but won't then after a while it will I will cycle key and here the fuel pump run each time I cycle the key on and off and the tone is different like the first truck
What if the fuel pump doesnt turn on at all?
Doesn't tell you much. Could easily be an issue with the fuel pump circuit or the pump itself.
@@pfun41 I'm having random symptoms all over the place, it's gotta be the ecm that's the only thing that makes sense. I've replaced fuel pump, relays, coil, filters, dielectric grease all connectors I can get to, it'll run great and then shut off 2 miles later, drag it home and it cranks again, I was about to switch it over to plain old school set up geez Louise, it's gotta be it, wish me luck, 96 5.0 m5od manual 4x4 stock except dual exhaust and 35s, thanks bud!
@@rbnhd1976 If It dies when hot then it could be the ICM or PIP
My 2012 f150 sometimes does that
I have to replace mine every 3 years , they suck. I'm putting a carb on it someday
Once you get to the computer how do you tell its bad?
You determine it’s bad before you get to it
Did you mean ECM 4 not EEC 4… engine control module/ electronic engine control..? I guess they’re the same thing..,
Eec4 is name for this Era vehicle... I believe it's comparable to the ecm of other make/year/ model vehicle
Yep my 94 F-150 4.9L MFI OHV 300 CU. Inline 6 5 speed hesitates on startup when I’m using my front fuel tank sputters and doesn’t want to start! But when I switch it to my rear tank it fires up with no problems would this be the same issue with The EEC? Can anyone help me please?
Bad fuel pump in front tank.
My truck starts and runs for a second and then the check engine light comes on and the truck shuts off
What I want to know is that in comments this is second time I have heard TWO OR BOTH FUEL PUMPS. Is my brain dead or is there actually two fuel pumps, one in tank and second by the inline filter to make pressure to rail???
Is this dual tank issue?
OBS ford pickups had 2 fuel tanks. On the dash is a switch that can change between them. Broncos only had one large rear tank and the rear window switch takes the place of the tank selector switch. This issue will affect either tank, as the EEC is commanding the fuel pump to run regardless of which tank is selected. IIRC some older models had a low pressure fuel pump in the tank and a high pressure fuel pump on the frame rail.
@@pfun41 I can't find a fuel pump on the rail for any year, only tank selector switch, in dual tanks, each tank has a pump I'm finding. Give me year I can look up to find rail pump and pump in tank. Seems ford would have used one pump and directed flow out of secondary tank to be picked up pump, but then looks as if easier would be to pump gas out of secondary to main, except overfill issues., so far I haven't seen pump on rail, what year has pumps in tank and pump on rail?
Ok, 88ish, I saw one, first time for me, thanks
There's two pumps a low and high-pressure, one in the tank and one under the driver's side frame rail underneath the brake booster
could my speedometer going in and out also be a reason
No. The PSOM usually affects transmission shifting not the fuel pump.
It's primed that's why it never came on mine has 16 million miles .F-150 300L6 bro beet that not originally cab.
Anyone's truck have intermittent problems shifting passed first gear? Or turning the truck on and it's automatically in 4x4? I feel like my truck might get stuck on low gear...
I have the exact same issue in my 1994 F150, it randomly is in 4x4, and struggles with 1st gear.
on my truck my new iac valve dosent function have to hold my pedal 2 inches to get it to turn over so i believe my ecu is bad
That or your throttle position sensor
well i installed a brand new one last month didn't help at all
You may have a bad IAC. The market is flooded with garbage quality auto parts, and electromechanical parts are especially prone to issues right out of the box. I had a brand new IAC that never worked right, put the OEM back on after a good cleaning and it's been fine since. That was over a decade ago.
@@pfun41 nope brand new iac but you do got a point there i may need to put motor craft iac to see if that helps
Stay toon
Mine don’t even start
Easy repair, just one capacitor.
My91 f150 it was a 6 cylinder I started to have those same symptoms but it was very hard to start most all the time but you're not wrong at all but anyways one time when I got it started I swear to God I drove like 2 miles and I could look behind me and see smoke clouds and I burn a quarter of a tank of gas ask if I'm lying I'm dying
My 94 F-250 is leaving the same clouds cause it’s running so rich. I’m actually measuring gallons per mile now instead of miles per gallon. It finally went to a no start condition the other day so now I’m in the process f trying to find a remanufactured ECU now but having trouble locating one now but will change it when I find it!
Any luck on yours Phil??
Hope you fixed it but it is computer failure I've done my research and prepared it simple capacitor that is gone week corroded or blown just by age just have to pull the computer and I'm not sure on the exact location look it up on many different UA-cam videos and it will show you the exact capacitor and you can resolder it and check the rest of them replaced ones that you see that are leaking boom problem fixed but you got to get the correct ones so look it up on the video on UA-cam can't tell which one look up ECU repair
Hey man I have a 95 bronco 5.0 having a tricky issue and guessing it’s a very common one . Have a starting issue . Starts up runs great shut it off run inside the store and just cranks with no start wait a little time and starts right up . Replaced just about everything besides the computer and distributer any suggestions would be appreciated
Something is heat soaking. It works fine when cold but fails hot. If it's loosing spark I'd look at the TFI module on the fender or the PIP sensor in the distributor. when it fails does the Tach move when you crank it?
pfun41 thanks man was the pip sensor. Runs like a champ now !!
I have a 1987 f150 2wd 5.0 efi I cannot locate my computer and no where on the internet can I find it can you help?
its tucked behind the driver kick panel. look in the engine compartment on the firewall near the drivers side. There's a rectangular connector with a ton of wires coming out of it. That's the PCM connector. Remove that and the 2 bolts holding the bezel around it and you can slide out the pcm. You may need to unbolt the fender liner for clearance.
@@pfun41 On 1987-1991 the ECM slides out from the cabin side, 1992+ comes out how you said.
What if your truck is Carbed with a mechanic fuel pump?
Then obviously there is no computer to fail.
Would the slow death of an EEC cause engine issues? Poor performance, loss of power and even emissions test failure? The swan song of old Fords apparently...
IME it usually just starts doing weird things.
@@pfun41 Hey thanks for the reply. My 1992 van has been running rough with sporadic issues. I've replaced quite a few relays and sensors. Even the CAT after a failed emissions test. Then it just died one day while running fine, wouldn't start back up. I couldn't hear the fuel pump, so replaced relay, filter, pressure regulator and then eventually the pump. Welllll now when you turn the key on the pump just runs and runs, but the van won't start at all. Bit of googling, now I'm looking at EEC/PCM issues. Sorry for the vehicle issues dump, your vid is helpful - thanks
@@toothpastehombre Yeah Fuel pump being commanded on continuously is usually a sign of EEC trouble. The other symptoms are sporatic and vary wildly from vehicle to vehicle.
I'd bet it would cause engine issues. Because before I checked or even knew to look into the ecu even after changing all the sensors, IAC valve, ignition components the truck still performed poorly after about 5-10minutes of running. It seemed like everything started failing one right another..I'll gladly update my results on this thread once my ecu comes back within 2wks. Best of luck with your truck running right again.
UPDATE..!!! I got my truck computer (ECU) back 12/12/2020 installed it a day later. Good news is that the truck runs like a brand new well oiled sewing machine..! I couldn't be any happier. I crank the truck after installing the ecu and let it ran for 40mins and no change in idle, sound, anything. I knew I was good after 5-10min passed. So I'm convinced that was my problem despite replacing all the sensors, ignition components, fuel pumps, injectors also. With the age of my truck and the pristine condition I try to keep it in eventually those items would've been going bad so no need to worry about replacing any of items anytime soon. The fuel pumps definitely needed changing, but it didn't give me the symptoms like my bad ecu did. If anyone is in the need of their ecu repaired check out this company.
www.ebay.com/str/zkboys
2004 v10 king ranch. O'Rileys said needed new alternator my certified mechanic said alternator was fine. Cold weather came and now I'll have lights in cab radio but no crank of starter. I'll have to put jump box on it. Sometimes I have to hold the key for 30 seconds before starter will engage. Anyone have any insight I bought a new battery as positive post has accid build up.
Does the EEC influence the transmission
On 92+ models with overdrive yes. E4OD and 4R70W are both electronically controlled.
@@pfun41 ty. My E4OD is shifting erratically. Replaced the speedo speed sensor 2x. No improvement. Checked voltage to sensor @ 0-mph, key-on-not-running & got intermittent readings nowhere near and always higher than 1.4 volts, plus the fuel pump runs-on when it should stop once the fuel rail maintains pressure
@@mikeluke544 Run on fuel pump means either an issue with the relay or EEC.
Only in automatics AFAIK. Manual transmission versions don't look at anything transmission related
@@P7777-u7r Thanks. Here's a brain teaser: My EEC's programmed to meet the emissions standards applicable to California. Can it be reprogrammed to meet the Federal EPA emissions standards applicable to Florida?
Mine doesn't do that but whines like this one