Installing wire lath & plaster for cultured stone veneer fieldstone
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- Опубліковано 19 лип 2021
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Installing wire lath & plaster for cultured stone veneer fieldstone
Hello my name is Mike and I'm the owner operator at TC Excavating also known as Dirt Boss please leave a comment and tell me what you think!
If you would like to email me:
mike@tcmalbany.com
Tri-County Excavating
My Equipment:
KOBELCO SK160-6E
KUBOTA SVL 90-2
KOMATSU D51 PX22
KOMATSU PC88 MR-8
JOHN DEERE 310G
BOMAG 172-2
BOMAG BW900-2
HYDREMA 912
MF 35
BIG TEX 7 TON
DYNAWELD 20 TON
KENWORTH T-800
GMC W4500
RAM 3500
TRI-COUNTY EXCAVATING - Авто та транспорт
Zip system or not, you still need a second layer wrb. You still need a weep screed installed at the bottom with your wrb over lap (rain screen would be best).
Your cups should be facing up not down. It's also not self furred wire lath (which bumps it off the the wall for the proper scratch thickness. I could go on, but when you said "this is the fastest way to do it" I knew you knew just enough to think you know. This is all wrong my friend.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Glad someone said it
Awesome work Mike, always a good time when I see your new videos pop up. Thanks for sharing take care stay safe god bless.
Thanks Don you too
Finally you get a days graft in !!! Nice to have jobs you can go back to when you need to. Wire bending and shaping hints do work well, I have used them myself on different jobs 👍
Tell me about it Thanks
Looks great Cant wait to see it finished Thanks for sharing Dirt Boss
Thanks Frank
Thanks man for the video! You're having to much fun.👍
Nice to see you doing something different. Great job
Thanks
It is going to look nice. I wish you lived around here I would have a lot of work for you. Can't wait till the next one to see you install the stone. Have a great day Brother.
Hey thanks Brent Yes someday I'm heading there No snow that's what I'm about!!
Thanks Boss! You're the Man. Cheers from Canada.
Thanks man
NIce Mike. The brick set chistel on the inside corner was awesome.
💯 Thanks
A man of many talents.👍👍👍😎😎😎
Thank you buddy
Very cool instructions
Great instructions brother …
Love stone work, did some years ago, stay safe DB.
Good to do it just to keep your skills alive !
I like the informative content ,you make it look easy thanks
Thanks
well done Boss young guy is learning lots
Yes he is
looking forward to next video !..thumbs up
Thanks buddy
The Boss knows how to get it done, Anything!
Thanks Dave !
Grinder is the way to go......I like the corner with the chisel.....I will try tomorrow, been using a lathing hatchet for years
💯 Thanks
Always thinking ahead for content for new videos. I like that! In 5 years you san make another video on how to repair rot behind stone and install new stone.
🤣
Get a hawk and practice with it and a bucket scoop will cut that scratch coat time in half ,broom old school plasterers trick 👍
Dirt Boss,thanks this was very useful!
You are 100% correct .on the wire...most people put it upside down.
Thanks
Nice job and Looking forward to the next video!!👍
Thanks
@@DIRT-BOSS you are welcome!!
Great Job Boss. God Bless 😃👍🙏
Thanks !
I just started using a roof nailer for my lath (used to just hand hammer it in before) what a game changer. I use a notch trowel for the finish on the parge, but I like your broom, I’ll try that on my next one.
As always your work looks great.
Thanks man appreciate it yeah broom is where at quick
Scarifier
I would have installed the lath exactly wrong. I bet a cordless 4 1/2 grinder would be life changing. I like how you cut for windows
Building code requires a second layer of grade D building paper or a second layer of non-water-absorbing layer or drainage screed installed before installing manufactured stone. The second layer creates a bond break against the Zip System, keeping the mortar away from the primary WRB.
Okie dokie pokie thanks for the tip
haha...didn't see your comment. I just said the same thing.
I personally would have used Dorken Delta Dry & Lathe. The cost is more, but better peace of mind.
Although ZIP is more keeps moisture out better than Tyvek, you'll have a lot of penetrations for water to seep into the sheathing.
The Delta Dry & Lathe allows an air-barrier between the veneer and your sheathing allowing moisture to drain and dry out more efficiently
.
Good info but I didn't build the house
Great to see you!!! Been wondering what you have been up to!!?? Looking great as usual see you when you start putting the stone up!!!!
Yes Henry it's been tough 16 days straight of rain
@@DIRT-BOSS - Send some up to us here in Southern Alberta!!! Haha. Actually California/Nevada/Arizona need it more!! If only it was that easy!! Heh heh. You stay safe fellas!
I remember first time I ever tried doing stone. I didn't know about parge coat. I just slapped stone on wire mesh. Lucky I was only doing small area around gas fireplace. Live and learn
Yeah I hear you there
You also have to put the wire going in the right direction!
@@gthiii absolutely... Really no matter which way you put it though and get a good plaster on it It will be successful
You do need 1 layer of barrier over zip sheathing for veneer stone or stucco. For veneering and stucco, you need 2 layers of wrb. The zip sheathing counts as 1.
No such thing as a double vapor barrier
@@DIRT-BOSS read literally any manufactured stone/stucco manufacturers installation instructions and you’ll see they call for 2 layers of WRB. First layer is your drainage plain, and the second is a sacrificial layer that keeps the mortar from contacting the first layer. You should definitely have rain screen between your WRB and lath as well. Hope you installed weep screed at the foundation and properly flashed your window, and allowed for 3/8 expansion gap with backer rod and sealant around windows and doors!
correct. 2 layers of wrb.. zip or tyvek is one... you need an extra layer of tar paper. it is not a vapour barrier, it is a water resistant barrier. the stone or Cementous stucco wicks water, the extra barrier is to prevent persistent moisture on the main barrier. check best practices from the manufacturers...you are correct
@@Loui3ism these clowns don't know how to read evidently. Just start a repair buisness when all their work fails, you'll have job security fixing it.
From what I understand its now (as of 2022) code in all areas except your super dry areas like nevada/Arizona/newmexico to have 2 layers of wrb.
I used to use roofing nails now I use a finish stapler with 1 1/2 inch staples it holds the wire better to the wall because you’re relying on the nail head to hook the wire
10/4
"corners on the corners" me: gotcha - goes and splits firewood thinking of corners on the corners. Nice work.
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Your pretty quick with that trowel big guy ☺️ Great Job!
Oh yeah you know it ! 🥰
Who Would Know better Than You😉 ( Hi, Mrs. D. Boss🙋♂️)
@@markg.2501 Hi Mark! 😊
This is the way i imagine a concrete guy trying to do my trade. Keep hacking it up buddy, it gives us more repair work for the future!
LOL I'll take a Pepsi challenge with you anyday my buddy your accountability went out the window when you thought this was real Masonry!
@@DIRT-BOSS I can see your ego has run away with you. The one thing about life is we all eventually get humbled sooner or later. Your turns coming
@@LF12468 ,👌
Great video
Thanks Andrew
Should always have two layers of barrier. Zip system counts as one. Also, new rain screen systems are the future of these veneers. Also one other thing is might want to use a true galvanized nail for the lath. Installed in dry climates not that a big deal though.
Rule of thumb double moisture barrier causes moisture
WRB isn’t a moisture barrier, the poly plastic or Kraft face paper on your insulation is your moisture barrier. Most stone/ stucco is required to have 2 layers of WRB per installation instructions and usually required by most building codes
It hadn’t occurred to me… but this kind of thing is actually in your job description. Ain’t it?
Having a full range of skills gives you lots of options… during the 40 days and 40 nights…. Me? I’d be building an ark!
The name on the equipment serves as his JOB DESCRIPTION! It's in his blood! Take care!!!
@@sonnyblazer5504 Truth!
It's crazy today is day 17 of rain It is every day and night I'm starting to get worried !!!
Such a cool video man thank you I love this kind of work cant wait for the next one now man!!!
Thanks
Amazing 👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks
I like your technique is not a dag gum mess like I’ve seen elsewise
Thanks
Is the roofing nail head smaller than the wire mash whole how is s gonna hold down heavy sheer loads of stone?
We're doing a project in new england where drainage planes are always a wicked smart idea. the project is doing EIFS on the second story, and we are thinking of just running it all the way down and doing the first floor masonry over the EIFS, that way we have one consistant drainage plane. What do you think?
See you on your next vidja.
Yes sir
What is the name of that cement you use to install these stones? Is there a stronger one if the stone is heavier? I'm going to make a fireplace and it has some big, heavy pieces and I don't know how to glue these stones together so they don't come loose. Recommend me a good cement for this, please. TY
Whats up w/ the haze in the background Boss? Aint no way you guys have fires w/ all that rain.
We are literally on fire over here still so whenever you want to share some of that rain, just send it to us here in Oregon.
Great upload
Wow I'm so glad you noticed that yeah they're saying Canada has major fires and that's what's causing the haze our moon is red and so is the sun it's insane never seen it before
Bad idea to have that scratch coat of mortar hard up against the Zip sheathing! You need a drainage mat/air gap between the lath and the Zip. IRC is now starting to require this drainage plane for stucco and adhered stone veneer.
If I could ask a small favor can you start a UA-cam channel so I could learn how to do correctly? Cuz the manufactured gave me these exact specs cuz I know zip board is new tech.. I'm old school black tar paper is the best
Any kid who works for this guy is a lucky sob. In a few years he could have his own crew.
Hey I appreciate that!
You saved me a ton of work with your tips. Nice
You're welcome man Good luck
My two cents...an additional layer of a WRB, like felt or housewrap, should be used over the Zip sheathing. The stone manufacturers require 2 layers of a WRB under the lath when used on the exterior. The first layer does the primary function of protecting against moisture (in this case, the Zip system), the second layer is a sacrificial layer/slip sheet to keep the scratch coat from bonding to the main WRB. You definitely don't want the scratch coat to bond directly to the Zip sheathing...it'll act as a bridge for moisture.
Funny how codes change over the years
you know everything
I try !
Odd music choice, but sure... great job
You got a lot of skills dude, enjoy your vids. Have a great day.
Thanks Man
👍👍 nice
Thanks
Tienes que usar la llana ancha para poner cemento
Hey man you’re a jack of all trades. Great video, thanks for sharing.
Thanks Chevy boy
If you drive nails into the ZIP System, do you worry about the vapor/moisture protection being degraded? Does it seal around the nails? Can you do the same thing with Tyvec housewrap?
Manufacture specs
Good video. Question I started digging out for a monolithic concrete pad there are a couple of stumps that been grounded down below the depth of were my stone sub base is going to be. Would it be ok to just put the stone down and concrete or should I get a backhoe and remove them?
They are pine tree stumps, about 20"s down
I would remove all stumps they will rot and cause issues
Badda boom badda bing! 🤣🤣
😎💯😎
Wow
Hey Ted
Hey Boss - Always meant to ask, what's the bracelet for on your left arm? I can read a bit @ 1:19, but can't read the whole thing. Thanks for the videos, always like to learn a thing or two!
Hey thanks for asking out of all the years nobody has asked me ! It's a special bracelet for my daughter I will get into that conversation on a live feed one evening. Thanks !
I did feel only zip system without another barrier is risk
I agree I had that conversation with the builder and they checked with the manufacturer and said no.. so my hands were tied I wanted to use tar paper
Do you have any tips for plastering the scratch coat on an inverted piece, like the underside of a garage door opening? Just slap it up there on the lath and hope it holds, and doesn't end up on your head?? After it dries, I'll be installing a cultured block/brick, under the garage door jamb, so tips on doing that would be helpful, too. Will try the wood screw trick you guys used for drip stones, and I'm going to use a very sticky thinset mortar (Ardex x77). If the blocks fail to hold, then I'll resort to installing wooden lath strips underneath the stones. Great video's. Thanks!
Yeah not sure about that just go nice and slow Good luck 😎
@@DIRT-BOSS Well, hmmm, I guess I'll wear my "mortar on top of the head" old hat. Thanks for getting back to me.
really need rain screen applied. over time water will soak into the stone and through the nail holes in to the house. without the rain screen water will be trapped
Hello, I've done this before but was on a solid concrete wall. Is it ok to use standard felt #15 tar paper only for my vapor barrier then lath? Last question, what size nails on the nail gun. Fantastic idea!! Thanks much
Yes tar paper works great also for the nails are standard size roofing nails
@@DIRT-BOSS Hey thanks much for the tips! You do nice, efficient work!! Thanks again
What is the white trim that you are using to terminate the mortar below the aluminum soffit?
It was just regular F channel
It's the DIRT BOSS 😎 YEAH Buddy Back on site Getting it Done 👍 DIRT BOSS 😎 putting the wire mesh in Nicely getting the right consistency 👌 for the plaster Buddy 😎 setting it up Correct ✅ for the cultured stone there's no doubt this project will look PRET TY when it's done 👍 GREAT JOB DIRT BOSS 😎 and Thank U 🙏 for the Great video 👍
Thanks budd
I know this is a typical installation but how do you get water drainage ? Seems the mortar passes the mesh onto the zip barrier blocking any drainage.
If it does get water it should weep out the bottom this is typical install as you mentioned
@@DIRT-BOSS i have seen it weep through the nail holes directly into the house. i know it sounds crazy but it does. need rainscreen or all this time, effort and money is a wasted. great vids. look into using rain screen
You probably mentioned it somewhere here but, what is the scratch coat ? Portland cement ? Or something less expensive ?
Type S or N premix mortar
What do you use to fasten lathe if there is rigid foam over the sheathing?
I use a roofing nail gun with coated nails
I used to do wire with scratch coat, now l do cement board and brush on bonding adhesive just before installing stone and just butter the stone, takes away the weak link, all failures I've seen was in the wire I've never had an issue will cement board and bonding adhesive
As long as you’re not using hardi backer
@@CMCraftsman it's made for exterior use also just not direct exposure,
BING THEN BOOM
🤣🤣🤣
You make that look easy. I end up with more on me and the ground, than on the wall. 8-)
Lol thanks
Great content. Why didn't u use thinset ?.. I'm currently doing ledger outside wall and was advised to use thinset.. any suggestion, thanks
Thinset is for tile.. never used it for stone
www.homedepot.com/p/MSI-Alaska-Gray-Ledger-Panel-6-in-x-24-in-Natural-Marble-Wall-Tile-6-sq-ft-case-LPNLMALAGRY624/207041865
This is the item I'm using, they suggested thinset white based. Not sure these qualify as stone or something else. Thanks
@@oscarocampo4575 yes thats more of a tile based product
@@DIRT-BOSS thanks for your insight
When it comes to plasta, he's the masta!
😂
No
Question to anyone on here.. Do I need wire mesh on my outside foundation wall to lay stone or can I install stone without the mesh?
I've done them directly on the concrete wall Just make sure there's no sealer on it Hit it with a pressure washer to open it up first maybe a little chemical
What size nails do you use. Any what type of nails?
Standard roofing nails
You mention double vapor barrier being bad, with tyvek over that green board; I'm doing a chimney chase that has tyvek house wrap with tar paper over that. Will that create the double vapor barrier?
found this online, "The building code requires two layers, or equivalent, over wood-based sheathings when the cladding is a cementitious product;" I think I'm fine since both are on the exterior and the felt paper will act as a bond breaker layer. The Interior will be batts.
I would check with your local codes
@@DIRT-BOSS It's in the IRC and ASTM that 2 layers of WRB is required. As well as recommended by every association and manufacturer.
@@stuccoproinspections7763 what are the repercussions of not doing that and applying a cementitious product directly over ZIP?
Looks like you have done that before. Good video.
A time or two
What size nails?
what do you recommend for a scratch coat product ?
Type s or n mortar
Can i do stucco. With the mesh??
I imagine you could
Boss video sir
Thanks buddy
what type of mortar do you use?
Type S
3:00 holy crap that is.... awesome!
Thanks!
If I could give you 10 thumbs up on this video I would!
Thanks !
Hey, good idea and I would join you. Best I could do though is give DIRT BOSS one and YOU one! Take care.
I thought you didn’t do masonry anymore lol
I got suckered into this one !!! 😂
@@DIRT-BOSS they paid the I don’t wanna do it price 😂
He still has to eat and pay his bills.
How NOT to install wire lath
Okay Frankie
Yeah, you go head, make it look so easy spreading the mud - BUT "YOU" have many years of the "FEEL"!!! For you, it flows in your blood. You know EXACTLY where & how to throw/spread the mix. I know you could even do it with your eyes closed (cause we got my grandfather to do it laying brick!) How long can it sit before you need to add the stone (is there a window/time?) Thanks "BOSS"! Sonny
Yes just wait till it turns light gray till it's dry usually the next day !
Looks like you’ve done that once or twice!
Possibly 😁
What happened to mika!!???
I don't know what happened to him? I haven't talked to hi m Hope he's okay.. 😂 He moved on
Are you aware that the lath should be encapsulated by a 1/2 thick of plaster to protect it from rusting. Because you are not anywhere close.
To much weight & if you think plaster is moisture proof then you really are lost
@@DIRT-BOSS you need to look at ASTM standards. The cement encapsulates the lath and protects. Lath will rust. If you don’t know that go by the Embassy Suites at the north end DFW airport. Lath rusted out and stones fell of in sheets. I am in the industry and see this. Talk to coatings, mortar and thin veneer manufacturers and see what they say. Of course the plaster is not moisture proof. A better option is cement board replacing the lath and plaster. The coatings and mortar manufacturers will all give 10 and 15 years warranties with cement board. It is also much faster and to your point is much lighter on the wall.
@@bretswan4623 well if you're in the industry I think we both can agree that cultured Stone is a joke and not forever I don't care how you put it on you're only as good as the nails the lath...gravity will win over time nothing like real Masonry separates the boys from the men
@@DIRT-BOSS have you ever used cement board. If you use a good medium bed polymer modified mortar the manufactured stone or real stone veneer will be there forever. The better mortar will give you a 400 to 600 pound shear bond strength.
Double wrb is code dude!! Yikes
Yeah maybe secret code
@@DIRT-BOSS yeah you're putting your lath on upside down also and that's no secret..... Good lord man.
SEEMS A BIT LOOSE
What is the name of the ready-made cement you use to install these stones? Is there a stronger one if the stone is heavier? I'm going to make a fireplace and it has some big, heavy pieces and I don't know how to glue these stones together so they don't come loose. Recommend me a good cement for this, please. TY
Quikrete type s