What tool did you use when you "stripped" the top hex head on cylinder 6 at 3 mins 20 secs? Any tips for removing a stripped hex head bolt? Besides not stripping it😅
It didn't strip, I just didn't have the hex tool inserted deep enough into the end of the hex head (bad angle) and it cammed out. I ended up using just the bare end hex out of the socket with a small box end wrench so I could get the hex tool all the way into the head. If you have rounded out the hex head however, the usual removal methods come to mind for an exposed hex head that you can grip on the side such as these coil pack ones. 1. Grab the sides with ViceGrips grips and back it out that way. 2. Cut a slot in the head with a cut off disc/similar so you can unscrew it with a flat blade screw driver. 3. Drill the head off and extract the exposed shaft once the coil pack is off.
John, I have appreciated your Boxster videos. They are well done and very helpful. I have to splice in a new ABS wiring harness on my 2000 Boxster S and wondered if you have any wiring tips for me.
Hi John - Hmm, I don't have anything specific to Boxster wiring splicing projects. I do have a soldering series of videos with one specific on splicing techniques if that is of any value? Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/otd5qKMSYUE/v-deo.html
Thanks John, I actually did watch that video. The wire on the ABS harness is about 22 gage. I am wondering if I need to solder the joints or if I could just use heat shrink but connectors?
If you want a proper factory approved splice that won't corrode, loosen, and work for many decades; the only wiring splice method to consider is soldering. Butt connectors are horrible for long term reliability - especially in a safety system like ABS.
Appreciate your perspective. I played around with a couple butt connectors options and decided on solder. It looks like the abs harnesses i got from Pelican are 22 gauge aluminum wire. That surprises me, I was expecting copper. Any special considerations soldering aluminum wire?
Thanks for this John. Any guidance on replacing the plug tubes, other than them leaking? My Boxster is also a 99' and it's been in Phoenix most of its life which means lots of heat. I believe they are original as well. If they're not leaking should I just leave them alone?
Personally, if they are not leaking, I too would leave them alone. I thought of replacing mine at this plug/coil change; even got the boat compression plug for pulling them out, but decided there was no need when everything is bone dry. The old risk - reward scenario. Keep in mind, I'm in Canada so this particular 986 sees lower temps plus it's in storage for 6 months out of every year.
How to lift your Porsche Boxster: ua-cam.com/video/fDA-qI5HsIU/v-deo.html
In a few minutes, John clearly demonstrates most DIY maintenance procedures. BRAVO
🙂
Great content - thank you John!
Glad you enjoyed it 🙂
Thanks!
Best $$$ spent for car maintenance ever!!
@patrick harris - Many thanks mate! That is so appreciated right now, you have no idea. Thanks so much again!
Sounds very ok pal thanks🙌👏🤝
What tool did you use when you "stripped" the top hex head on cylinder 6 at 3 mins 20 secs? Any tips for removing a stripped hex head bolt? Besides not stripping it😅
It didn't strip, I just didn't have the hex tool inserted deep enough into the end of the hex head (bad angle) and it cammed out. I ended up using just the bare end hex out of the socket with a small box end wrench so I could get the hex tool all the way into the head. If you have rounded out the hex head however, the usual removal methods come to mind for an exposed hex head that you can grip on the side such as these coil pack ones.
1. Grab the sides with ViceGrips grips and back it out that way.
2. Cut a slot in the head with a cut off disc/similar so you can unscrew it with a flat blade screw driver.
3. Drill the head off and extract the exposed shaft once the coil pack is off.
where are plugs located?? bottom side?? you are porsche Ph.D
John, I have appreciated your Boxster videos. They are well done and very helpful. I have to splice in a new ABS wiring harness on my 2000 Boxster S and wondered if you have any wiring tips for me.
Hi John - Hmm, I don't have anything specific to Boxster wiring splicing projects. I do have a soldering series of videos with one specific on splicing techniques if that is of any value? Here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/otd5qKMSYUE/v-deo.html
Thanks John, I actually did watch that video. The wire on the ABS harness is about 22 gage. I am wondering if I need to solder the joints or if I could just use heat shrink but connectors?
If you want a proper factory approved splice that won't corrode, loosen, and work for many decades; the only wiring splice method to consider is soldering. Butt connectors are horrible for long term reliability - especially in a safety system like ABS.
Appreciate your perspective. I played around with a couple butt connectors options and decided on solder. It looks like the abs harnesses i got from Pelican are 22 gauge aluminum wire. That surprises me, I was expecting copper. Any special considerations soldering aluminum wire?
@@johnlennon2163 very doubtful it would be aluminum. If it is, you can't solder aluminum.
Thanks for this John. Any guidance on replacing the plug tubes, other than them leaking? My Boxster is also a 99' and it's been in Phoenix most of its life which means lots of heat. I believe they are original as well. If they're not leaking should I just leave them alone?
Personally, if they are not leaking, I too would leave them alone. I thought of replacing mine at this plug/coil change; even got the boat compression plug for pulling them out, but decided there was no need when everything is bone dry. The old risk - reward scenario. Keep in mind, I'm in Canada so this particular 986 sees lower temps plus it's in storage for 6 months out of every year.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for your insight John. I was thinking the same thing.