The tiny checkouts or tearouts as you put them were partially filled with the sanding sealer. That's what I like about the FW sanding sealer, because it is also a grain filler. An open grained timber like Tassie Oak looks pretty rough when the finish hasn't filled the surface, but with a couple coats of filler that have been lightly sanded back to create a level surface, things look pretty smicko!
I was impressed by that on the Tassie Oak! I thought the dense wood wouldn't show much difference. Yeah I only just noticed the "Grain Filler" on the label. I also noticed the Ubeaut one says "Non Grain Filling" on there so a difference there to watch. I don't stain often, but so far I like it. There is another party trick I discovered which is awesome using this stuff, but I decided to save that for a separate video cause it was so cool 😉
Mate, I have been using Sanding sealer on my jobs for years, Wattle Sanding Sealer , but I put two or three coats on to lift and fill the grain. Light sand between coats and then put on the varnish and boy it comes up nice. Great insight into sanding sealer, thanks for the video!! Cheers 👍👍
To be fair on the Feast Watson, it also says 2 coats may be needed for an even better finish. But even after one coat the difference was noticeable. I'm loving the comments here, learning heaps...the plan works! 😂
Neat test there, mate 👍🏽 Kind of crazy the price we get slugged here in Australia. It seems over the last handfull of years that the diy projects have taken off prices of things have skyrocketed without justification.
I haven't read what is actually in this, probably a mix of turps, oil and wax. It may be fairly easy and cheap to make your oil, but that would require work 😂
@@FixitFingers Work! did you say WORK!!! My god man, no swearing , please... 🤣🤣🤣🤣 In that case, if you ever figure it out, please do give me a cooee. 😉
What a brilliant video! I've been on the edge about using the sealer or not before staining my coffee table. Lot's of company seems to brush that step off, swearing their stains don't need it. On a side note, may I suggest you reduce a bit the lighting in the video; sometimes the glare of the light was a bit strong to see the wood clearly.
Cheers Barbara, thanks for the heads up on the lighting it does throw up some glare when I get too close, I'll watch that in the future! I was wondering the same as I rarely see it used, and I suppose you don't HAVE to, will depend on the project, but I stain so rarely that when I do, I think I'll take the extra step to help me get it right 😊
You could have tested/compared the sanding sealers build vs varnish which is what I am looking for, you could also have used shellac in the comparative analysis and not the pva glue which a pro would never use, the good thing about shellac is that it sticks to anything and anything sticks to shellac, so for refinishing older finishes is excels and prevents laminating. Oil stains are a lot less likely to blotch as well, and bitumen thinned with turps is black japan and really adds a wonderful bronzy tint used thinly over a finish but needs to be sealed with a non oil based sealer like shellac prior to using oil varnish.
Argh now see you used the 'pro' word... I am very far from that, just testing my own personal needs ;) The PVA idea came from woodturner friends who use it to seal endgrain and help slow the drying process. I've not used shellac but have heard many good things. It makes me wonder why it has fallen out of favour in modern making.... Im guessing the cost? That would be a good comparison video, I'll keep it in mind as a follow up if I find the time.
Unique little test mate, I gave up on finishes years ago lol but found that when Aldi put stain out it’s actually pretty good stuff mate 🇦🇺🍻👍, happy lockdown 😳😔🤔
Loving the extra lockdown workshop time! :D Yeah I've been scared of stains for some reason. Cross fingers this one is working out for me... except on the resin, but I saved it. 😅
you're getting bit mixed up about wood conditioner which u should apply prior to a stain and sanding sealer which you should apply after you stain you're wood. But if you don't stain you're wood then go right ahead and use the sanding sealer if you want to .
G'day Sean, the Feast Watson Sanding Sealer is specifically designed to be used on open-pour wood _before_ stains. I've not seen "wood conditioner" in Australia so it may be a nomenclature thing. (Says so on the side of the tin ;) www.feastwatson.com.au/products/preparation/sanding-sealer
I am not sure whether it is mentioned on the tin but the (often) recommended way to apply sanding sealer is with a piece of sacking (burlap, hessian) rather than a brush. From my experience the gaps in the cloth combined edges of the fibre help you force the sanding sealer into the grain. This is the way I used to do it a while ago when I used to re-finish piano cases. I've never brushed it on but I imagine that it might leave quite a bit of excess on the job which would cause more dust when sanding, loading your disk or paper quicker and the higher possibility of an uneven finish if not sanded well enough. I realise that the samples were small so difficult to use a piece of hessian. Where to get hessian these days ? Coffee roasters they always have empty sacks around and will often give you one or sell you one at a low price. Just a thought .
No the tin says brush or roller but the sacking idea seems great, I might try that if I can find some hessian! Yes, this grain filling one does clog the sandpaper pretty quickly if you cover a larger area, I've only used it on smaller pieces, but if you did a whole tabletop I think that would definitely be worth a try. Thanks for sharing your experience! 👍
Good test, was interested to see the results. The difference really shines when you do a large area like a table top where your stain is laying on thinner as you wick it out of the cloth and you have lap marks and swab marks.
Yeah this metho one dries so fast doing a large area must be tricky to get even. I hadn't even thought of that... I'll leave you to test the full size table for me 😅
Interesting comparo mate. I think the black japan stain made it difficult to see the results as easily on camera. I've used FW sanding filler on very large built ins two rooms, made entirely of mtn. ash (tassie oak) but used a FW jarrah stain, two runs, worked quickly. Then the FW filler, very finely sanded, only by hand. Worth doing two layers. Then 3 layers satin lacquer. Scourer sanded between layers. Magnificent finish, both ply and frames. Working the sanding filler properly was a little bit of a learning curve to fill the grain, as was getting even layering of the stain but chalk and cheese on quality finished projects. The filler really evens out the finish and gives that super smooth quality furniture touch. Enjoying your detailed, casual approach. Cheers PP
So you stained first then, then used this as a filler after to improve the finish... interesting. I am brand new to staining so just followed the instructions on the side of the can and I expected a few errors along the way. In fact if you watch next week you'll see a few of them on that project I was working on 😂
@@FixitFingers Sorry mate, no I filled first and sanded carefully. Too late to be commenting!:-) I've got a pro mate who told me what to do. Really impressed on me how fastidious you need to be to get the finish. Sanding needs to be spot on. The sealer was so impressive I would never skip it for a great finish. Look forward to the next vijeo. Cheers PP
Love the vid . I use the sand sealer ( brand you tried ) but in between sanding on lathe to hold flakey grain woods from flaring out. I have started to use the product called proofseal (from same brand) and this stuff is brilliant and not thick like sanding sealer. I don't recommend getting a large tin of sand sealer unless you plan to use it all pretty quick as it goes thick and horrible pretty quickly I've found .
Funny you mention that about it going off. I cut it from this video as it was getting a bit long but the first tin I got was actually dead (congealed) before I even opened it. We went through 3 tins at Bunnings to find a good one!
Yep it can be painful stuff . Proof seal is a hydrocarbon based sealer that wipes on and dry in 20mins . Is great for under resin and is recommend for proof tint. Can flood seal end grain so get a great soak in.
Thanks for updating the comment Wade, I appreciate it. Yes only a small sample to satisfy my curiosity, would be better over a larger area and with more variations of timber. I did find the result have held true using it since though. 👍
I don't see a lot of oak here in Sydney. Well I have Tasmanian oak... which is neither from Tasmania nor is it an Oak, it's a eucalyptus. 😅 I did some testing on it in this video. It's a bit pink compared to European or America Oak, but they are about the same density I think and the product should have a similar effect : ua-cam.com/video/161QDrIv9Qo/v-deo.html
@@FixitFingersI make the stain for a table factory high end tables white oat, red oak ,walnut, mahogany, Ash etc. I am trying to make a red oak look like a natural white oak but the grain sticks out severely
Hey Sheri, I had to go to the FW website myself to check this out as I am unfamiliar with the product. Short answer, no, you use one or the other, they are both timber sealers. Here is the summary of what I was able to pick up. Sanding Sealer and Proofseal are both for indoor use, Timber Primer is for outdoor use. Sanding sealer is grain filling meaning it makes finishes super smooth by filling all the little imperfections. Both Timber Primer and Proofseal are non-grain filling, meaning they protect the wood and give your finishes better coverage and appearance, but won't affect the 'feel' of the wood. At least that's how I read it! For my outdoor projects, I'm normally a fan of decking oils like Aquadeck, which you can't use a primer under or they won't sink in. But if I find need I'll give the primer a test you 😊 - I hope that helps a little! - James
Yep it's a type of wood conditioner. There are a few under different names. Pre-stain, proofseal etc. Usually they are used before staining to even out the colour. They are slightly different but do the same job
Hey Matt, no if you are going to paint no need to use a sanding sealer. It is designed to help even out stain and is also good for smoothing the final finish of oils. I can't see benefit if you are going to paint so you can skip this step. 👍
You know... I'd never thought of it like that! 😅 It is a bit odd isn't it? Sanding *Sealer* is actually a wood conditioner. It makes your stain go on more evenly... it's no good to use it after stain. I wonder if it's a weird Australian terminology?😂
@@FixitFingers trying out feast Watson timber primer. The stain over the sanding sealer I would expect to sit on the surface only as it would not allow penetration. The timber primer is supposed to allow shallow penetration to even out the stain. Sadly no timber conditioner is readily available in oz. The primer is supposed to be the same. I will give results if interested.
@@anonymouse1309 please do share your results, I've not tried that one. The sanding sealer is grain filling, so it will also even out small checks in the surface like you get in Tassie Oak. FW also do a Proof-seal which is thinner and dries faster, but won't fill grain defects. My mate who is a turner uses that under epoxy finishes. So many products out there that do just a different enough job to confuse everyone 😅
@@FixitFingers Ok. The first thing to notice is that Feast Watson on their Web site state for use to even out stain on timber. This does not appear on the actual can. Secondly, it does not dry clear and darkens the wood, so be aware that will affect after stain colour.
I would recommend using this on soft woods only. It needs to be absorbed into the timber to work and hard woods will not allow this. Was it a success - ehh.
Should work. You'd be able to sand back the top to re-expose the wood leaving your inlay coloured. The sanding seal should help stop the spray paint sinking in giving a clearer finish. I'd do a year first as I've not tried it. Let me know you go!
Thanks for the feedback! Certainly could be improved by increasing the surface area to get an idea how a table top or cabinet panel would look with and without the seal. However even these smaller samples are indicative of what you can expect. Chances are if you are looking at this product, you have experienced the blotchyness in your timber and are looking for ways to combat it. These quick tests convinced me the product does well what's on the label and it hasn't disappointed since I've started to use it on projects.
Thanks Imelda! My wedding band or the celtic band? Wedding ring is from a Sydney jeweler. The ring on my right hand I actaully got in Scotland, made by a silversmith in Edinburgh. It replaced one I was given for my 21st birthday which may have gone missing... My family is Irish and Scottish on my mothers side.
Fixit Fingers my husband and I have the same wedding ring as yours. We bought ours in Ireland it’s was nice to see yours. I am from Ireland living in Melbourne. Tx for you videos ☘️
The tiny checkouts or tearouts as you put them were partially filled with the sanding sealer. That's what I like about the FW sanding sealer, because it is also a grain filler. An open grained timber like Tassie Oak looks pretty rough when the finish hasn't filled the surface, but with a couple coats of filler that have been lightly sanded back to create a level surface, things look pretty smicko!
I was impressed by that on the Tassie Oak! I thought the dense wood wouldn't show much difference. Yeah I only just noticed the "Grain Filler" on the label. I also noticed the Ubeaut one says "Non Grain Filling" on there so a difference there to watch. I don't stain often, but so far I like it. There is another party trick I discovered which is awesome using this stuff, but I decided to save that for a separate video cause it was so cool 😉
Mate, I have been using Sanding sealer on my jobs for years, Wattle Sanding Sealer , but I put two or three coats on to lift and fill the grain. Light sand between coats and then put on the varnish and boy it comes up nice. Great insight into sanding sealer, thanks for the video!! Cheers 👍👍
To be fair on the Feast Watson, it also says 2 coats may be needed for an even better finish. But even after one coat the difference was noticeable. I'm loving the comments here, learning heaps...the plan works! 😂
Have you tried with stain over the SS?
Neat test there, mate 👍🏽
Kind of crazy the price we get slugged here in Australia.
It seems over the last handfull of years that the diy projects have taken off
prices of things have skyrocketed without justification.
I haven't read what is actually in this, probably a mix of turps, oil and wax. It may be fairly easy and cheap to make your oil, but that would require work 😂
@@FixitFingers
Work! did you say WORK!!!
My god man, no swearing , please...
🤣🤣🤣🤣
In that case, if you ever figure it out,
please do give me a cooee. 😉
What a brilliant video! I've been on the edge about using the sealer or not before staining my coffee table. Lot's of company seems to brush that step off, swearing their stains don't need it. On a side note, may I suggest you reduce a bit the lighting in the video; sometimes the glare of the light was a bit strong to see the wood clearly.
Cheers Barbara, thanks for the heads up on the lighting it does throw up some glare when I get too close, I'll watch that in the future! I was wondering the same as I rarely see it used, and I suppose you don't HAVE to, will depend on the project, but I stain so rarely that when I do, I think I'll take the extra step to help me get it right 😊
You could have tested/compared the sanding sealers build vs varnish which is what I am looking for, you could also have used shellac in the comparative analysis and not the pva glue which a pro would never use, the good thing about shellac is that it sticks to anything and anything sticks to shellac, so for refinishing older finishes is excels and prevents laminating.
Oil stains are a lot less likely to blotch as well, and bitumen thinned with turps is black japan and really adds a wonderful bronzy tint used thinly over a finish but needs to be sealed with a non oil based sealer like shellac prior to using oil varnish.
Argh now see you used the 'pro' word... I am very far from that, just testing my own personal needs ;) The PVA idea came from woodturner friends who use it to seal endgrain and help slow the drying process. I've not used shellac but have heard many good things. It makes me wonder why it has fallen out of favour in modern making.... Im guessing the cost? That would be a good comparison video, I'll keep it in mind as a follow up if I find the time.
Unique little test mate, I gave up on finishes years ago lol but found that when Aldi put stain out it’s actually pretty good stuff mate 🇦🇺🍻👍, happy lockdown 😳😔🤔
Loving the extra lockdown workshop time! :D Yeah I've been scared of stains for some reason. Cross fingers this one is working out for me... except on the resin, but I saved it. 😅
you're getting bit mixed up about wood conditioner which u should apply prior to a stain and sanding sealer which you should apply after you stain you're wood. But if you don't stain you're wood then go right ahead and use the sanding sealer if you want to .
G'day Sean, the Feast Watson Sanding Sealer is specifically designed to be used on open-pour wood _before_ stains. I've not seen "wood conditioner" in Australia so it may be a nomenclature thing. (Says so on the side of the tin ;) www.feastwatson.com.au/products/preparation/sanding-sealer
I am not sure whether it is mentioned on the tin but the (often) recommended way to apply sanding sealer is with a piece of sacking (burlap, hessian) rather than a brush. From my experience the gaps in the cloth combined edges of the fibre help you force the sanding sealer into the grain. This is the way I used to do it a while ago when I used to re-finish piano cases. I've never brushed it on but I imagine that it might leave quite a bit of excess on the job which would cause more dust when sanding, loading your disk or paper quicker and the higher possibility of an uneven finish if not sanded well enough. I realise that the samples were small so difficult to use a piece of hessian. Where to get hessian these days ? Coffee roasters they always have empty sacks around and will often give you one or sell you one at a low price. Just a thought .
No the tin says brush or roller but the sacking idea seems great, I might try that if I can find some hessian! Yes, this grain filling one does clog the sandpaper pretty quickly if you cover a larger area, I've only used it on smaller pieces, but if you did a whole tabletop I think that would definitely be worth a try. Thanks for sharing your experience! 👍
I found this so very helpful. Thanks.
Thanks Leanne! I am still a fan, the difference it has made to some of my small projects more than justifies taking the extra step :)
Oh man i still have so mutch to learn.. good vid!
Don't we all. Best thing about the hobby, you can learn something new every visit to the workshop.
Good test, was interested to see the results. The difference really shines when you do a large area like a table top where your stain is laying on thinner as you wick it out of the cloth and you have lap marks and swab marks.
Yeah this metho one dries so fast doing a large area must be tricky to get even. I hadn't even thought of that... I'll leave you to test the full size table for me 😅
Interesting comparo mate. I think the black japan stain made it difficult to see the results as easily on camera. I've used FW sanding filler on very large built ins two rooms, made entirely of mtn. ash (tassie oak) but used a FW jarrah stain, two runs, worked quickly. Then the FW filler, very finely sanded, only by hand. Worth doing two layers. Then 3 layers satin lacquer. Scourer sanded between layers. Magnificent finish, both ply and frames. Working the sanding filler properly was a little bit of a learning curve to fill the grain, as was getting even layering of the stain but chalk and cheese on quality finished projects. The filler really evens out the finish and gives that super smooth quality furniture touch. Enjoying your detailed, casual approach. Cheers PP
So you stained first then, then used this as a filler after to improve the finish... interesting. I am brand new to staining so just followed the instructions on the side of the can and I expected a few errors along the way. In fact if you watch next week you'll see a few of them on that project I was working on 😂
@@FixitFingers Sorry mate, no I filled first and sanded carefully. Too late to be commenting!:-) I've got a pro mate who told me what to do. Really impressed on me how fastidious you need to be to get the finish. Sanding needs to be spot on. The sealer was so impressive I would never skip it for a great finish. Look forward to the next vijeo. Cheers PP
Love the vid . I use the sand sealer ( brand you tried ) but in between sanding on lathe to hold flakey grain woods from flaring out. I have started to use the product called proofseal (from same brand) and this stuff is brilliant and not thick like sanding sealer. I don't recommend getting a large tin of sand sealer unless you plan to use it all pretty quick as it goes thick and horrible pretty quickly I've found .
Funny you mention that about it going off. I cut it from this video as it was getting a bit long but the first tin I got was actually dead (congealed) before I even opened it. We went through 3 tins at Bunnings to find a good one!
Yep it can be painful stuff . Proof seal is a hydrocarbon based sealer that wipes on and dry in 20mins . Is great for under resin and is recommend for proof tint. Can flood seal end grain so get a great soak in.
@@theskuta77 Old comment I know, but can you use the stain over the proofseal?
@@lauraj2096 no i dont think so . They make prooftint which would do the job of proofseal and stain at same time i think
Thanks for making a vid mate. The samples are way too small though.
Thanks for updating the comment Wade, I appreciate it. Yes only a small sample to satisfy my curiosity, would be better over a larger area and with more variations of timber. I did find the result have held true using it since though. 👍
Thanks for the review!
Cheers mate, hope it was useful. 👍
I would like to see it on Oak
I don't see a lot of oak here in Sydney. Well I have Tasmanian oak... which is neither from Tasmania nor is it an Oak, it's a eucalyptus. 😅 I did some testing on it in this video. It's a bit pink compared to European or America Oak, but they are about the same density I think and the product should have a similar effect : ua-cam.com/video/161QDrIv9Qo/v-deo.html
@@FixitFingersI make the stain for a table factory high end tables white oat, red oak ,walnut, mahogany, Ash etc. I am trying to make a red oak look like a natural white oak but the grain sticks out severely
Can you help me understand what the Feast Watson Timber Primer is for? Do you use it with Sanding Sealer? Can you test the Timber Primer Please :)
Hey Sheri, I had to go to the FW website myself to check this out as I am unfamiliar with the product. Short answer, no, you use one or the other, they are both timber sealers. Here is the summary of what I was able to pick up. Sanding Sealer and Proofseal are both for indoor use, Timber Primer is for outdoor use. Sanding sealer is grain filling meaning it makes finishes super smooth by filling all the little imperfections. Both Timber Primer and Proofseal are non-grain filling, meaning they protect the wood and give your finishes better coverage and appearance, but won't affect the 'feel' of the wood. At least that's how I read it! For my outdoor projects, I'm normally a fan of decking oils like Aquadeck, which you can't use a primer under or they won't sink in. But if I find need I'll give the primer a test you 😊 - I hope that helps a little! - James
Its a shame you did not try it on MDF
G'day mate, apologies, I've never considered using MDF and resin together! I can't see why it wouldn't help. If you try it let me know how you go
Thank you for your video! is this product what other people refer to as a wood conditioner?
Yep it's a type of wood conditioner. There are a few under different names. Pre-stain, proofseal etc. Usually they are used before staining to even out the colour. They are slightly different but do the same job
Is sander sealer required only before staining, if I plan to paint the wood is sanding sealer necessary?
Hey Matt, no if you are going to paint no need to use a sanding sealer. It is designed to help even out stain and is also good for smoothing the final finish of oils. I can't see benefit if you are going to paint so you can skip this step. 👍
Depends on the sealer.
Useful test 👍👍
Good starting place on stains for me, there are literally books on the subject so a long way to go ;)
I am totally confused. Doesn't it seal the timber that the stain cannot absorb? I thought conditioner before stain and seal after.
You know... I'd never thought of it like that! 😅 It is a bit odd isn't it? Sanding *Sealer* is actually a wood conditioner. It makes your stain go on more evenly... it's no good to use it after stain. I wonder if it's a weird Australian terminology?😂
@@FixitFingers trying out feast Watson timber primer. The stain over the sanding sealer I would expect to sit on the surface only as it would not allow penetration. The timber primer is supposed to allow shallow penetration to even out the stain. Sadly no timber conditioner is readily available in oz. The primer is supposed to be the same. I will give results if interested.
@@anonymouse1309 please do share your results, I've not tried that one. The sanding sealer is grain filling, so it will also even out small checks in the surface like you get in Tassie Oak. FW also do a Proof-seal which is thinner and dries faster, but won't fill grain defects. My mate who is a turner uses that under epoxy finishes. So many products out there that do just a different enough job to confuse everyone 😅
@@FixitFingers Ok. The first thing to notice is that Feast Watson on their Web site state for use to even out stain on timber. This does not appear on the actual can. Secondly, it does not dry clear and darkens the wood, so be aware that will affect after stain colour.
I would recommend using this on soft woods only. It needs to be absorbed into the timber to work and hard woods will not allow this. Was it a success - ehh.
With the sand sealer, can you paint on top of it with spray paint?
Can't see why not. Though I haven't tried. Are your thinking masking off and spraying instead of resin?
@@FixitFingers yeah was thinking using some rust oleum spray paint.
Should work. You'd be able to sand back the top to re-expose the wood leaving your inlay coloured. The sanding seal should help stop the spray paint sinking in giving a clearer finish. I'd do a year first as I've not tried it. Let me know you go!
@@FixitFingers thank you. If I end up going that route I will keep you posted
I think its about time feast watson made an aerosol can of this product.... its a no brainer.
That is an excellent idea. Shoot them an email and claim a modest 5% on all sales 😊
Not that great a test I'm afraid, your test samples are too small to see any blotching or get a true idea of how the sealer/finish looks.
Thanks for the feedback! Certainly could be improved by increasing the surface area to get an idea how a table top or cabinet panel would look with and without the seal. However even these smaller samples are indicative of what you can expect. Chances are if you are looking at this product, you have experienced the blotchyness in your timber and are looking for ways to combat it. These quick tests convinced me the product does well what's on the label and it hasn't disappointed since I've started to use it on projects.
nice ring
fáinne bainise
Thanks Imelda! My wedding band or the celtic band? Wedding ring is from a Sydney jeweler. The ring on my right hand I actaully got in Scotland, made by a silversmith in Edinburgh. It replaced one I was given for my 21st birthday which may have gone missing... My family is Irish and Scottish on my mothers side.
Fixit Fingers my husband and I have the same wedding ring as yours. We bought ours in Ireland it’s was nice to see yours. I am from Ireland living in Melbourne. Tx for you videos ☘️
The big box store, just so you know, no longer stocks, this sanding sealer. Sorry!
Argh cheers! I've found it at Inspirations and have added that link :D