I have not had them blow out the rear seal, but the trick is watching the spring compression as the bearing buddy is filled. I find a lot of people over fill them, thus blowing out the rear seals.
Pretty good instructional video thumbs up!! I will share! I would also add that the manufacturer of the disc brakes in this case Dexter Axle requires Loctite on the caliper bolt threads torqued to 40ft/lbs. Also, brake fluid used for boat trailers should be purged with fresh Dot 3 or 4 only, every 1 to 2 years! regardless of usage. Brake fluid absorbs water more so on a boat trailer. Most 3-year-old boat trailers have about 10% of water in the system! and brakes are only covered for 1 year by the manufacturer. So purge fluid after the very first year and inspect all brake mounting hardware and brake line connections. Change fluid every 1 to 2 years after that regardless of usage.
Thank you for this information. Now I have learned something on fluid replacement life. I will agree there is more more water collecting in surge brakes over time. I have seen rust developing inside the surge brake reservoir and I have replaced the surge brakes years ago in the past career. I was never informed on the frequency on purging them. I will keep that in mind on the next boat trailer I work on. Thanks again.
@@bigguydiy2184 I will most definitely share this video. I somehow stumbled onto your video while looking for a video to help an end-user test a reverse lock-out solenoid. The number one thing I got from your video is you were able to "save" the caliper. If your neighbor would have taken the trailer to a mechanic or to anyone in the marine industry they would have 100% replaced the entire caliper and charged another 1H labor per caliper to remount and replace not including another hour to bleed the brakes. We know it really does not take that long. The fact is those particular calipers have a SS piston and the entire caliper is an aluminum casting. The calipers themselves are not going to rust like the ones on your car. However, just as you explained in your video. When these trailers sit for long periods of time. The brake pads can build up corrosion and stick to the rotors and the rubber boot in the caliper is not as pliable. Consumers can lower the likely hood of this happening by towing the trailer once at least once a month and after backing the trailer up in the driveway ALWAYS shift into drive and pull forward 2-3" so the surge coupler is fully extended out. That allows the calipers to fully release. Plus changing brake fluid every 1 to 2 years adds longevity to the brake system! If you ever have any additional inquiries in regards to boat trailer stuff I most likely have literature that may back up explanations. debo@venturetrailers.com but thanks for the video!
Just a follow up. I looked into the Dexter site and they advise to bleed the brakes every 12 months or 12K miles. This will take 2 individuals to perform. Dexter has a video on how to perform this maintenance. That's pretty frequent. I'm surprised at that maintenance schedule.
@@dennisjohnston4888 Nice that never occurred to me to pull forward a bit to ensure brakes are fully released even though the coupler has a reverse lockout.
Nice video! Very in depth. I’m actually looking at replacing my trailer bearings, brakes were replaced last year so I don’t think it that they’re sticking.
There are 2 sets of bearings in a trailer hub along with a rear seal and as large front washer. If you do not have a caliper to measure the size, bring the parts into a boat dealer to match them up. Before re-installing the new bearings, coat them really really well with bearing grease. Re-install the bearing into the hub then re-install the rear seal. If you do not have a socket that matches the seal size, use a small 2"x4" block with a mallet to hammer the seal into place. DO not hit it hard because sometimes the seal will go in crooked. Once the seal is in, and flush to the back of the hub, pack more grease into the hub and grease the axle. Then re-install the hub. The nut that holds the hub, make it tight enough where the hub can still turn but has no play. If the nut is too tight, you cannot turn the hub by hand. When that happens, back the nut a little bit at a time till you can turn the hub and the hole in the axle for the cotter pin can be seen thru the nut. And that's it! Good luck!!
Use lube sparingly between the caliper and pad shim or on the back of a bare pad. Never apply any lubrication to the friction surface of a brake lining. To lubricate hydraulic components, such as the piston seals inside wheel cylinders and calipers, use silicone-based brake lube.
Ford lug nuts are usually 100ft/lb . It will be marked on the nut. Always check with a torque wrench. I drive an 18-wheeler and our newest trucks and trailers (2018 and up) all have disc brakes. It does take a little getting used to because there is a noticeable difference in response from drums. My boat trailer is a 2000 and has disc surge brakes on one axle. The electric part is to bypass the surge when backing.
Not a fan of the Ford lug nuts since the stock ones I had were the chrome cap over the lug nut. Eventually the cap would spin on the lug nut. I ended upgrading to solid lug nuts. On trailer brakes, I'm seeing five flat wire plug which is that electric bypass on surge brake trailers. Since I trailer a variety of boat trailers, I carry a plug 7round plug adapter that excepts 4 & 5 pin flat and then my regular 7 pin round on my F150.
As was previously noted, the caliper should not be hung without some support to prevent the brake line from bearing the weight. This can possibly cause [internal] failure of the line. Also, you shouldn’t have to peel back the piston boot for lubrication. If the piston is stuck or binding, overhaul or replacement is needed.
I 100% agree on replacement if binding or stuck. Something I have done recently on my personal F150 for the front calipers. Next Spring will be the rears with new rotors.
Yes, I know. I have to replace the torque wrench I thru away. My pnuematic air gun has 2 torque settings so I have it set on the lower setting so a person can remove the lugs vs needing a pnuematic air gun. Soon, I'll get another, but in a digital reading vs the old analog twist for s setting one....
Any tips on how to test the brakes? I have a feeling the spring on my horse trailer isn’t compressing , hello hello from nz ! P.s the handbrake works if that help :)
With a pry bar, put up into the trailer hitch, you should be able to compress the cylinder, but you will need a 2nd person to turn the wheel to see if it stops while compressing the brake. That is really the easiest way to test surge brakes.
I was replacing the pads on my brakes and noticed a hole in the rubber boot and there was water behind the caliper, can the rubber boot be replaced on the caliper?
Yes, the rubber boot SHOULD be replaced. It prevents water intrusion. Grease the slide heavily for now till you can replace the rubber boot. This will slow, but not stop rust from taking hold on the slide.
"The correct torque for installing lug nuts on your 5 X 8 trailer's 5-lug wheels will depend on the size of the lugs. For a 1/2-inch lug the torque spec ranges from 75- to 85-ft-lbs. For a 9/16-inch lug the torque spec ranges from 135- to 145-ft-lbs." Why should the caliper not be allowed to hang by its hose? DO NOT allow the caliper to hang on the brake hose. It may damage the hose and cause braking problems. Upon occasion you will need to spread the brake pads to allow room for the caliper to come off. It is important to Gently force the piston back into the caliper housing. (hard to diagnose if you don't know your trailer brakes are not working properly )
Why should the caliper not be allowed to hang by its hose? DO NOT allow the caliper to hang on the brake hose. It may damage the hose and cause braking problems. Upon occasion you will need to spread the brake pads to allow room for the caliper to come off. It is important to Gently force the piston back into the caliper housing. (hard to diagnose if you don't know your trailer brakes are not working properly )
Some people just want to know what time it is. I like to know how to build the watch. Thank you for being so thorough!
Good stuff . Soon to start on my own , appreciate you sharing the knowledge .
Nice work, I never use those zerc fittings on the bearing buddies unless Im replacing, they always blow out the rear seal
I have not had them blow out the rear seal, but the trick is watching the spring compression as the bearing buddy is filled. I find a lot of people over fill them, thus blowing out the rear seals.
Great job !
Pretty good instructional video thumbs up!! I will share! I would also add that the manufacturer of the disc brakes in this case Dexter Axle requires Loctite on the caliper bolt threads torqued to 40ft/lbs. Also, brake fluid used for boat trailers should be purged with fresh Dot 3 or 4 only, every 1 to 2 years! regardless of usage. Brake fluid absorbs water more so on a boat trailer. Most 3-year-old boat trailers have about 10% of water in the system! and brakes are only covered for 1 year by the manufacturer. So purge fluid after the very first year and inspect all brake mounting hardware and brake line connections. Change fluid every 1 to 2 years after that regardless of usage.
Thank you for this information. Now I have learned something on fluid replacement life. I will agree there is more more water collecting in surge brakes over time. I have seen rust developing inside the surge brake reservoir and I have replaced the surge brakes years ago in the past career. I was never informed on the frequency on purging them. I will keep that in mind on the next boat trailer I work on. Thanks again.
@@bigguydiy2184 I will most definitely share this video. I somehow stumbled onto your video while looking for a video to help an end-user test a reverse lock-out solenoid. The number one thing I got from your video is you were able to "save" the caliper. If your neighbor would have taken the trailer to a mechanic or to anyone in the marine industry they would have 100% replaced the entire caliper and charged another 1H labor per caliper to remount and replace not including another hour to bleed the brakes. We know it really does not take that long. The fact is those particular calipers have a SS piston and the entire caliper is an aluminum casting. The calipers themselves are not going to rust like the ones on your car. However, just as you explained in your video. When these trailers sit for long periods of time. The brake pads can build up corrosion and stick to the rotors and the rubber boot in the caliper is not as pliable. Consumers can lower the likely hood of this happening by towing the trailer once at least once a month and after backing the trailer up in the driveway ALWAYS shift into drive and pull forward 2-3" so the surge coupler is fully extended out. That allows the calipers to fully release. Plus changing brake fluid every 1 to 2 years adds longevity to the brake system! If you ever have any additional inquiries in regards to boat trailer stuff I most likely have literature that may back up explanations. debo@venturetrailers.com but thanks for the video!
Just a follow up. I looked into the Dexter site and they advise to bleed the brakes every 12 months or 12K miles. This will take 2 individuals to perform. Dexter has a video on how to perform this maintenance. That's pretty frequent. I'm surprised at that maintenance schedule.
@@dennisjohnston4888 Nice that never occurred to me to pull forward a bit to ensure brakes are fully released even though the coupler has a reverse lockout.
Nice video! Very in depth. I’m actually looking at replacing my trailer bearings, brakes were replaced last year so I don’t think it that they’re sticking.
There are 2 sets of bearings in a trailer hub along with a rear seal and as large front washer. If you do not have a caliper to measure the size, bring the parts into a boat dealer to match them up. Before re-installing the new bearings, coat them really really well with bearing grease. Re-install the bearing into the hub then re-install the rear seal. If you do not have a socket that matches the seal size, use a small 2"x4" block with a mallet to hammer the seal into place. DO not hit it hard because sometimes the seal will go in crooked. Once the seal is in, and flush to the back of the hub, pack more grease into the hub and grease the axle. Then re-install the hub. The nut that holds the hub, make it tight enough where the hub can still turn but has no play. If the nut is too tight, you cannot turn the hub by hand. When that happens, back the nut a little bit at a time till you can turn the hub and the hole in the axle for the cotter pin can be seen thru the nut. And that's it! Good luck!!
Use lube sparingly between the caliper and pad shim or on the back of a bare pad. Never apply any lubrication to the friction surface of a brake lining. To lubricate hydraulic components, such as the piston seals inside wheel cylinders and calipers, use silicone-based brake lube.
Ford lug nuts are usually 100ft/lb . It will be marked on the nut. Always check with a torque wrench.
I drive an 18-wheeler and our newest trucks and trailers (2018 and up) all have disc brakes. It does take a little getting used to because there is a noticeable difference in response from drums.
My boat trailer is a 2000 and has disc surge brakes on one axle. The electric part is to bypass the surge when backing.
Not a fan of the Ford lug nuts since the stock ones I had were the chrome cap over the lug nut. Eventually the cap would spin on the lug nut. I ended upgrading to solid lug nuts.
On trailer brakes, I'm seeing five flat wire plug which is that electric bypass on surge brake trailers. Since I trailer a variety of boat trailers, I carry a plug 7round plug adapter that excepts 4 & 5 pin flat and then my regular 7 pin round on my F150.
@@bigguydiy2184 two piece lug nuts, and two piece spark plugs. I want whatever those designers were on that day, it must be good stuff! LOL
As was previously noted, the caliper should not be hung without some support to prevent the brake line from bearing the weight. This can possibly cause [internal] failure of the line. Also, you shouldn’t have to peel back the piston boot for lubrication. If the piston is stuck or binding, overhaul or replacement is needed.
I 100% agree on replacement if binding or stuck. Something I have done recently on my personal F150 for the front calipers. Next Spring will be the rears with new rotors.
You know that lug nuts have a specific ft lb which is mandated by the manufacturer. It’s easy to look up and use a torque wrench.
Yes, I know. I have to replace the torque wrench I thru away. My pnuematic air gun has 2 torque settings so I have it set on the lower setting so a person can remove the lugs vs needing a pnuematic air gun. Soon, I'll get another, but in a digital reading vs the old analog twist for s setting one....
Any tips on how to test the brakes? I have a feeling the spring on my horse trailer isn’t compressing , hello hello from nz ! P.s the handbrake works if that help :)
With a pry bar, put up into the trailer hitch, you should be able to compress the cylinder, but you will need a 2nd person to turn the wheel to see if it stops while compressing the brake. That is really the easiest way to test surge brakes.
I was replacing the pads on my brakes and noticed a hole in the rubber boot and there was water behind the caliper, can the rubber boot be replaced on the caliper?
Yes, the rubber boot SHOULD be replaced. It prevents water intrusion. Grease the slide heavily for now till you can replace the rubber boot. This will slow, but not stop rust from taking hold on the slide.
"The correct torque for installing lug nuts on your 5 X 8 trailer's 5-lug wheels will depend on the size of the lugs. For a 1/2-inch lug the torque spec ranges from 75- to 85-ft-lbs. For a 9/16-inch lug the torque spec ranges from 135- to 145-ft-lbs."
Why should the caliper not be allowed to hang by its hose?
DO NOT allow the caliper to hang on the brake hose. It may damage the hose and cause braking problems. Upon occasion you will need to spread the brake pads to allow room for the caliper to come off. It is important to Gently force the piston back into the caliper housing.
(hard to diagnose if you don't know your trailer brakes are not working properly )
Never use a rattle gun to torque wheel nuts. That is what a torque wrench is for.
Why should the caliper not be allowed to hang by its hose?
DO NOT allow the caliper to hang on the brake hose. It may damage the hose and cause braking problems. Upon occasion you will need to spread the brake pads to allow room for the caliper to come off. It is important to Gently force the piston back into the caliper housing.
(hard to diagnose if you don't know your trailer brakes are not working properly )
Torque all lug nuts using a torque wrench only, most are 100 ft lbs
Thank you. I really need to get a new torque wrench.....
Drum brakes parts dont last in salt water. Disc brakes work better for boat trailers if in salt or brackish water.
Agree totally. Also much easier to work on disc brakes as well as replacing them vs drum.