I live in the Midwest. I replace my tires at the end of the 4th year. I’ve learned from experience that 5 and beyond is questionable. 27 years of 1200 miles a year of trailering the boat. 5 is probably OK but I worry about a failure on the road instead of enjoying the trip. Lol. Proper inflation is critical. I check the bearing temp at every stop on longer trips.
Something to note is that the jack that comes with your tow vehicle may not necessarily work to jack up trailer to change a flat. And your lug wrench may also be the wrong size to fit the trailer lugs. I carry an old spare scissor jack, breaker bar and right sized lug socket in my truck in case I get a flat. I just leave them in my truck for the summer so I never have to think about loading them ever time.
I found that out the hard way so to speak. Had a flat thought I had all the bases covered carrying a separate 2t floor jack just in case. Found out that with the tire flat my jack still wasn't low enough to get under the axle😮. First thing i did was grab a new tire and a low profile racing jack.
two items that I always do are. Small cheap trailers use wiring harnesses with crimp-on connectors, I remove them and solder the connection. never a bad connection after that. The other item I do once a year is to remove all the wheel lug nuts and brush on anti-seize. Again I no longer have seized on lug nut that can ruin your day if you need to change a tire especially on the side of the road.
Good info here. Since retirement, I tow my boat round trip from NY to FL every year, and total close to 5K miles a year. The additional miles have made me more attentive to my trailer as previously, the only issue was age. One thing I screwed up for years was tire pressure. I had no idea that trailer tires call for much higher pressures than car tires. My one bearing failure occurred after my dealer changed them (perhaps he over tightened one of the four). Now, I have bearings and tires checked at least every year. Thanks for the video.
Trailer tires also have a lower speed rating and blow out easier at higher temps/speeds. I see guys going 90 pulling their boats on Texas toll roads and wonder if they realize the tire speed ratings are often lower than their vehicle tires.
I carry a spare hub and 2 spare tires (one on the trailer, one in the truck) because once you replace a flat on the road you don't have a spare for the return trip. If you replace your hubs on a regular basis, keep a good one in a large ziplock bag all greased and ready to go. Carry a short piece of 2x4 and a rubber mallet if you have bearing buddies. I carry two floor jacks since a ruined hub on a soft shoulder means you need to get the trailer high enough to get a jack under the axle, then I carry a piece of thick plywood to use as a base for the jacks. Yeah I carry a lot of stuff.
Level towing is important. Measure distance from ground to bottom of coupler when trailer tongue is level. Measure distance from ground to top of receiver on the tow vehicle. The difference between these two measurements is the rise or drop needed to position the trailer ball for level towing. Then the proper height ball mount can be selected for the vehicle and trailer being towed.
Regardless of outside appearance, I wouldn't use a trailer tire over 6 years unless: 1) It was a radial 2) It is stored inside and off the floor (Trailer jacked up). 3) The travel is limited to local boat ramps. Like you said, after 10 years it doesn't matter what they look like. Great video.
Agreed. I’ve seen perfectly good looking tires shred that were 7 years old. I never met my trailer tires get over 5 years old regardless of appearance.
I like to carry a laser temperature gauge. ($20) After trailering for at least 20 - 30 minutes check the temperature of the hubs. If you have one on its way out it will start to run hot. I like to see them at around 95 degrees. If you have one exceeding 105 on a regular basis, it's worthy of a closer bearing inspection.
It's great for checking the temp at the hot springs, also. I am not crawling all the way under the trailer to touch dirty, hot stuff. Infrared imager works well, also!
Before towing my boat, I put a box in the back of my truck, locked under cover, that contains all I can think of for towing. I call in the "Jack In The Box". Inflator, lug wrench, hub kit, jack, scotches, on and on. When I return home, the box goes on the bow of the boat. Wont trailer anywhere without the box! I have not needed it, but have encountered others who did! Win win!!
@@brunkbrunkbrunk J.I.T.B. Goodies: Old rubber door mat rolled up (So jack won't slip), Good 4 way, Extra Jack, Extra Hub Kit, EZ Lift Half Moon thing, goes under axle, back up to lift trailer (No jacking!), Mini Compressor, Milwaukee Cordless 1/2" impact, Gloves, paper towels, rubber wheel scotches, roadside reflectors, and other things relating ONLY to trailer. Tools for the boat go in the boat!
When not using your trailer, don't leave it parked on grass or any other organic material such as grass. It will degrade at an increased rate. Use dead mater instead, such as a concrete slab under each tire. Also avoid leaving it in direct sunlight, the UV radiation also takes a big toll on the rubber. Good video!
Ozone actually is the bigger problem that degrades and breaks down vulcanized rubber. Better to just pay the piper and upgrade trailer tires every 5th year at the longest.
Sorry I always think of other things after I post. I also use 303 protectant spray to keep the tires from drying out. Tire foam and the tire shine products make the rubber in the tires deteriorate faster, 303 protectant helps keep the rubber moist and flexible.
If you have a E-Z loader,or any trailer with roller bunks,beware!If the rubber wheels wear out ,the brackets that hold them will go right through your hull ! I drilled a hole though the washer that helps hold the rubber wheels on and spray a lubricant in every year .White lithium works well.Happy boating!
Grease is not good. It attracts dirt, sand, and gravel and hold it thus wearing greased components out. Use a spray silicone that dries and leaves a lubricated film...
I always feel the hub and around the lug nuts at the first stop. A hot hub or rim is a good sign you waited to long to inspect the bearings and/or lug nuts.
1. Boat dealers commonly sell trailers that ‘barely’ carry the boat mainly to keep price tags down on packages. I’ve seen too many boats at 95-100% of a trailer’s capacity and that’s not even accounting for any gear laden into the boat afterwards. 2. Do your own checks and do NOT reply on anyone else. Check yourself your tire pressures and lug nut torques! My brand new $20k tri-axle trailer had all tires including 2 spares all under inflated (averaged 50-55 psi when they should have been 80 psi) And i went back to trailer manufacturer who had a guy re-torque the lugs as recommended after some initial miles (he only tested and re-torqued some lugs. After a few hundred miles, i sheared off a tire and wheel (lugs sheared right off!). Checked lugs myself and found most needed tighten significantly and then also found all tires under inflated. Grrrrrr.
Also, it's a good idea to disconnect the power from your lights prior to backing the trailer down into the water. Water and electricity don't play nice together, especially salt water.
If you have LED lights your fine......if you have normal lights.....COLD.....water like below 60°.....will pop hot bulbs.....if your bulbs are cold waters not freezing.....they should be fine underwater.....it's cold water cracking hot glass.....not really water touching wire....and if your worried about that is check your connections.....
Add wiring too. Never use those Green Yellow Brown wiring kits unless you want to rewire your trailer every three years. I replaced my wiring with marine grade tinned wiring. Only the marker/fender lights have a connection that is underwater. AND there is no such thing as waterproof lights. My lights are mounted on my guide poles. I use the shrink solder connectors as well. Also I mounted red marker lights on the back, facing towards the tow vehicle, of the guide pole lights wired to brake/turn lights so I can see my brake/turn lights in my rear view mirror so I know my lights are working.
I use epoxy lined heat shrink and overlap a longer piece over a shorter one for double protection. Liquid tape is also a good product to coat a connection with. It's not pretty but in a hidden space you can use a wire nut on at-risk connections and simply dip the entire wire nut into the liquid tape to completely seal the connection (telephone companies used to do this with buried cables). I have nav lights with hidden wiring in the bow of my boat that have these types of connections for 20 years without any issues.
Tip number one reveals mistake number one. Don’t rely on the winch to secure the front of the boat to the trailer. Put a chain of proper length from the bow eye to the trailer frame.
Good video. No matter how much you know, or think you know, you can always learn something that might save you trouble. "Trailer manufactures don't always use the best quality tires" you say....the China bombs that came with our trailer literally started coming apart in the second year from very easy normal highway paved road driving. Buyer beware. Always buy brand name trailer tires from a reputal tire shop.
Hi Sean. Great video! Any advise on the vault hubs? They say no maintenance required but my trailer is 11 years old now and ive taken it to two shops(Boat and general mechanic) and both have said they look fine and dont recommend replacement or servicing. Any tips or learnings you have over the years?
On every trip or two after you’ve driven at least twenty minutes, check temperature on trailer hubs by touching dust cap. If one is hot it could mean problem w bearing. And don’t forget to check tire pressure on trailer spare…it wont do you much good if under inflated. In your truck or boat have some spare bulbs for trailer lights…they go out fairly often and are easily replaced if you have em on hand.
I put a 10,000 pound winch strap on..Im new to boating, and just got this 20ft boat..The last owner had tied a knot to the hook that connects to the boat, it was broken..Hopefully my 2,900 pound boat is secure with that, and the transom straps
You mentioned about the strap from Winch to Boat, check for wear, how about the safety chain which goes from boat frame to Bow eyebolt. I've witnessed a boat fly off a trailer without a safety chain attached. FibreGlass and asphalt don't mix well at 60 MPH. Montreal Bass Boat.
It seems like bunks should be made of solid synthetic decking material. If you bolt them to the trailer with countersunk carriage bolts and wrap them with carpet, they should work the same without rotting. They are more expensive than wood, but you are only buying 2-4 of them. Is there any drawback?
Synthetic decking material doesn't have the support. That's why you need 12" on center joists to avoid sagging and why substructure of decking is normally lumber. Also there's no holding power to them so using a lag bolt in them is a non-starter since below the surface coating is mostly pressed material. Even PVC boards don't have the best holding ability with screws, and don't have structural support. There's nothing wrong with using lumber as long as you continue to service your trailer regularly. Bunks should last several years. That said, there are synthetic bunk boards but they are really expensive and aren't made from decking material.
@moonpiespotlight4759 a piece of aluminum angle backing the board would take care of the sagging. Of course, you just bolt through them to negate the weak holding power.
Always check the hub temperature (by hand) after the first 10-20 miles of a trip. Hot hubs indicate problems: overloading, contaminated or low grease, or worn bearings. Have an extra set of bearings, a grease gun with marine wheel bearing grease, a bottle jack, a spare tire, tools for a tire change and a tire pump with gauge. Traffic cones add to tire change safety. Also do not exceed the speed limits of your tires. A good idea to upgrade tires on a new trailer, keep the old ones as spares. When storing your trailer, keep the tires on wood planks (not on the dirt or grass) and cover the tires from the sun. Check tire pressure periodically, as low tire pressure compromises tire integrity while in storage.
If you have a tandem or a triple and the suspension gets very load, (leaf spring type)check your equalizers as the holes may be egged out and will need replaced , also there is a new bearing buddy out there with blue inserts which tells you when to add grease !
In Florida if your trailer tires are outside you'll only get 4 maybe 5 years out of them Quit sinking your trailer too. The deeper your trailer goes into the water the more water pressure pushes into those bearing wheel seals and bearing caps. Once water gets into the bearings its only a short time before that bearing fails. I'd say that is one of the most common launching mistakes people make. I've got my trailer set up so only the rear of the bunks need to be submerged to launch and load my boat. The bearings are only 8" deep.
#1 get your boat and trailer weighed, to make sure the trailer is not overloaded. Boats, and RVs often weigh more than what the manufacturer says it does, and most boat/trailer combinations at best only have about 10% tire reserve capacity, versus your tow vehicle which usually will have 25-30% even at full load. I have had good luck with Kenda Load Star K550 Bias ply tires, I think they hold up better than cheap radials.
I like to add to the safety of the trailer wheels. Make sure you're not overloading the tires. the tires should have a max load weight on them. know the boat weight with the normal loading ie. gas full tank, any additional weight like t tops, added seats etc. Know the weight of the trailer (without boat on it). Also, if you put coolers, heavy tackle boxes, and other added weight, make sure you don't exceed the load weight of the tires.If you have a heavy boat, I recommend dual axles or even three depending on weight. Also a point to make is know your safe trailering weight of your vehicle and the safe tongue weight of your trailer hench. God bless and happy boating.
After you've inspected everything and are ready to go, take a minute, walk around your trailer, and Re- Check for anything you might have missed 🙈 . Have your boating companion check it as well. Always try and take a friend with you, even if you're a "pro" !!! God Bless ⚓️👍⚓️
Carry a good spare trailer tire. Don't grease trailer lug bolts. Inspect COUPLER every trip. Carry a spare wheel bearing set; bearings and races can be changed by most owners who carry tools or any decent shop but you need to have the replacement. Read your trailer brake controller manual and understand how brake controls work. Don't load your boat with other stuff that stresses your hull or overloads your trailer. Know how much tongue and axle weight you are towing. Carry a small grease gun with bearing grease; apply a thin layer on trailer ball each trip (but not on Andersen brand hitches)
It amazes me that the USA hasn't discovered wobble rollers for their trailers yet. That's really all we use in New Zealand. They enable you to approach the trailer with the boat at a wide range of angles. Way way way better than bunks. They grab the boat and centre it.
Not sure if you mean the same thing, but rollers are a common option on trailers. Many people don't like them because your boat rolls off as easy as it rolls on. You have to have 2 experienced people to load and unload a boat. With bunks, you can park so it's almost floating, unhook from the trailer and pull it off with the engine, then park the boat and go move your truck. If you have rollers, the boat is going off the back of the trailer the second you loosen the strap, if you are in it or not. There are ways around this, but they involve a second rope. With bunks, as long as the trailer is as the right depth, the boat stays in place while you get in and out.
When I was a kid that is all you saw was wobble rollers. There were many different kinds. they have faded out over the years. Newer trailers have precision placed bunks specific to the boat it was built for that work great. Wobble rollers are more versatile and good if you are using your trailer to haul a variety of hull size and shapes.
It depends on where in the USA you are….in the north east where the tides change water depth 6 feet from low to high tide you see plenty of full roller trailers. Tides & shallow ramps are difficult for bunk trailers a roller can be used where a bunk cannot.
We trailer our boat 850 miles round trip 2 or 3 times a year. We never go longer than 6 years on a set of tires even tho our boat is garaged. Our trailer has oil-filled hubs. Was not sure if I would like them, but they are GREAT! Safe trailering & boating to all!
One important part of boat trailer maintenance is to ensure that the inside of the hitch coupler is clean of sand or dirt. Then ensure you grease the hitch ball to reduce wear and tear of the trailer coupler.
I live near a river that is super busy with boats and rafts as soon as the high water goes down. There have been several fires that were caused by wheel bearing failure and dragging safety chains. Dry grass from July on ignites fast. I remember one summer a trailer safety chain dragging made fires all along I-90 for over 50 miles. It seems like the guy was chased down by the Highway Patrol and stopped. I think he had to pay for damages and fire suppression as well.
How about maintenance on the tow vehicle. I just had to have my rear differential on my Dodge Ram rebuilt. Regardless of submersion Over time water contact can degrade Lubricants causing bearing ir gear failure.
After having a utility trailer come off the ball years ago, I am in the habit of jacking the trailer tongue a bit to make sure it's locked on properly.
I just saw you guys making the mistake of jacking the trailer up by the axle. Can bend the axle doing that…especially if you have the weight of a boat on it. You of all people should know to jack up a trailer by the frame. Pick closest point to the wheel. Also careful you don’t pinch any wires that may be coming out of the frame at the jack point you pick.
The number one cause of wheel bearing failure is preloading the bearings. The wheel bearing needs to have clearance you should have about 1/8 of a inch play at the top of the wheel. If you adjust it with no play when the bearing heats up and expands it will reduce the clearance and become preloaded then overheat and fail. Over tightened wheel bearings fail very very quickly. A bearing with excessive clearance does not fail because of excessive clearance. Use a good quality grease,adjust the bearing correctly use a bearing buddy and wait for hub to cool down before submerging in water and you will never have a bearing failure. Service your bearings once a year especially on trailers with small wheels.
1/8 play at the top of the wheel is next to nothing at the bearing, finger tight on the adjustment nut is zero clearance on the bearing cold and preloaded when hot.I have serviced and adjusted 1000s of wheel bearings I was taught this 45 years ago by WW2 mechanics.@@BabyGators
I was using my trailer in both fresh and salt water. I used anti seize lube on the lugnuts. I tightened the lugs as usual but going down the road one tire came off. I ended up having to take one lug nut off the other tires so I could get to a parts store. Live and learn. Thankfully it was only a 14' aluminum boat.
I pull trailers on salted roads... Having lug nuts freeze on and have to replace studs due to twisting them off while trying to remove them...lesson learned.. As a general rule don't lube lug nuts with anything.... I do because I'll need to get them off one day... Also.. retorque after a few miles and you probably will never have a problem.. Oh....if you depended on toque wrench on those rusty bolts ,you'll really be under tightening.... You'll have to use some good judgment while doing so....or replace all studs and nuts every few years...
@@moonpiespotlight4759 what part of " freezing on" did you miss? As not many actually toque wrench anyway...I only do on emergency equipment and now and again to keep that muscle memory accurate So everything is " goodntight"
There's are not really any excuses. 1. The 'Bearing Buddy' type grease fitting allows anyone to load the wheel bearings with fresh grease frequently with ease. 2. The powerful cordless brushless impact wrenches allows easy swapping the spare onto the trailer anywhere. 3. Take care of your trailer tires. I recommend checking air pressure as often as possible. Never store trailer with wheel touching the ground for long periods of time to prevent dry rot. Tires don't last forever. After awhile they need replaced, even if they look OK. Always make sure your lights are working correctly. Keep a spare bulb available, or better yet, upgrade to LED. I always disconnect my trailer wire harness before backing it into the water. It only takes a second to unplug and re-plug.
I saw a really bad bass boat bunk break. Boy was that bad. Evidently it had came almost off on the rear and as he was loading the boat the bunk just kind of floated away from the bracket. Well the bracket ripped a deep tear about 1-1.5 feet long before he realized it was happening. I noticed he had a new boat the next year. He said his insurance covered it.
Use waterproof grease!!!! I’ve seen too many people use automotive grease on their bearings. It turns into a whipped goo with very little lubricating properties.
another thing I do is I use tire covers, yes they can be expensive and a pain in the you know what, but they help protect the tires from UV rays which also speed up dry rot.
Do you use them on your vehicle as well? My Truck sits in the sun just like my boat, I don't worry about dry rot. Tires should be replaced on a timed basis, not by tread wear (especially on boat trailers).
On the safety chain, DO NOT USE the steel cable that many trailer manufacturers install. I learned this the hard way when my trailer disengaged from the ball and the cables failed. Yes, they snapped like rubber bands. the trailer and boat were going down the highway on their own. Yikes! It was a horrible experience and luckily my boat and trailer survived. with a few repairs to the trailer and a scratched boat. Luckily there was a concrete barrier on the right and I was in the right lane. It could have been catastrophic. I now have heavy duty chains as my safety net. I also installed a safety chain to catch the boat if the strap you wind the boat back on the trailer fails. I then had heavy duty tie-downs welded on the trailer to keep the rear of the boat trailered properly. Don't trust what these trailer manufacturers are putting out. They are cutting corners. Best to learn from others' mistakes. You're welcome.
Consider visually inspecting all welds underneath your trailer. If it has rubber coated /under armor type of coating inspect the weld joins for cracks and rust. Water can pool there and the crack/rusting process begins. 50-100K costs for boats nowadays do yourself a favor and replace your tires much sooner than later even if it has just been sitting. 1 ruined trip because of a bad tire is just not worth it IMHO.
I had a 6000 lb chain snap with a Pontiac V8 and tranny hanging on an engine hoist once. Made me a frayed!! Upon further inspection found two nicks in one of the chain links like somebody hit it with a hatchet. That motor dropped REAL fast!
My boat goes in and out of salt water, so I dedicate a day before boating season to taking the wheels off, replacing the bearing inner and outer and lots of lube, the brakes rot completely out so I removed them and I dont care what they say no one makes trailer lights that last for more than a two years.
You guys hit a lot of it, but a couple things you missed were : 1. When checking your bearings, make sure you hit your bearing buddies with a little grease at the end of each season. Just make sure the cap that's under spring tension is somewhere in the middle of where it rides. 2. After driving for a while, check the temperature of your hubs. They should be a little warm but not hot. If they're hot, you have a bearing or brake issue that needs to be addressed before you go much further. 3. Trailer brakes should be inspected once a season, especially if you launch your boat in salt water. 4. Last but not least, carefully wash your trailer any time it has been exposed to salt. Giving it a dunk in a fresh water lake after it's been in salt water is a great idea. Just make sure you're not introducing any invasive species into said lake. A quick dunk in fresh water should work to get a lot of salt off the trailer while not giving critters enough time to jump off your boat. If your boat has a lot of growth on it, you might want to start by pressure washing your setup before taking it to the lake.
Inflate tires to maximum stated pressure. A full tire runs cooler because there is less material in contact with the road. Heat buildup is the #1 cause of blow outs - not road hazards. Any defect or ageing of the tire will be found and exploited by heat.
Tires have a shelf life. I got a blowout on a trailer tire. It had no visible damage. The tires were 10 years old but still had the little nubs on the side and looked new. I found out that tires need to be replaced every 8 or 9 years.😢
trailer tires are only good for about 2 years here in Arizona when the boat is stored outside. 4 years if you're extremely lucky but i wouldn't risk it.
You guys kind of "missed the boat" with this video. You really didn't talk about "mistakes". This is more of a "Things to inspect on your trailer" video. What about: How to clean and maintain electrical connections; How to check axle alignment; How to prevent or slow dry rot on tires. How to verify tongue weight and adjust if needed.
Trailer tires… regardless of miles after 8-10 years REPLACE THEM. And buy good ones. They dry rot just sitting, and greatly increase a chance of a blowout. Think about how many times you’ve seen a trailer on the side of the road with a blown tire… Also pay attention to the speed rating of the tires! A lot of cheaper trailer tires for 15” and smaller wheels are only speed rated to 65-72mph. I had to shop around to get 14” tires that are rated for 80+
The castle nut isn't torqued, its retained from spinning off by a cotter pin. Do a search for details, but basically you tighten the nut down to seat the bearings, then back it off till loose, hand tighten then insert cotter pin. Check wheel for run-out and adjust aaccordingly. There are many videos that show this.
You should have straps across the boat holding it onto the trailer proper chain holding the trailer to the car - remove the hub do it with the tyre still on look into the rear bearing most bearings are cheap seals are cheap 30 min to 1 hour per side so you have a cold drink on afternoon
i have some noticeable vibration the first few miles of towing my boat but it goes away.tires are new bearings are good cant figure out why.maybe have tires balanced and weighted? everything is like new so I'm stumped.? any suggestions
It could be that the tires themselves take a slight shape (flatten a bit) where they sit at rest when not in use. Once the tires heat up after the first few miles, they soften and return to proper shape.
while checking bearings you should check up and down not side to side and just because it has a bearing buddy doesn't mean it don't need to be repacked bearing buddies don't account for bearing wear !! be safe !
What happened to winching your boat onto your trailer. Submerging your boat trailer to launch and retrieve your boat is so destructive in a saltwater environment. These days, with the advent of power winches, this makes wetting your trailer unnecessary and will save you time and expense of replacement... and talking of trailer design, what happened to tilt trailers? The modern boat trailer is designed to fail in a few years, I have a big hardtop fibreglass boat on a forty year old trailer, painted only no gal. The boat sits low on multi-rollers, just the tyres and the rear gimbed rollers get wet . The power winch takes only seventeen seconds to winch the boat onto the trailer, knowing the suspension and wheel bearings are high and dry. Having to wet a boat trailer to launch and retrieve only favours trailer manufacturers. Cheers
You should not leave your boat trailer, or any trailer for that matter with the tires setting on the ground. Park it on concrete or lay down a strip of plywood to keep them off the dirt. This will help prevent premature dry rot. I do this to all my trailers and replace the plywood if it starts to deteriorate.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟The oval circle @1" long with 4 numbers in side - first 2 are year and second 2 are week of that year. Example: 2216 - year 2022 and produced the 16th week of 2022. , I do not know in Canada, Iam from the U.S.A. . Thank you for your videos :)
Actually it's the other way around. The first two numbers are the week and the last two are the year of production. Hope this helps. Also while the D.O.T. numbers are on both sides, the date code is sometimes only on one side.
@@YesThatSuperDave , Awww yes LOL, it has been many years since I have had to worrie about the dates. I use to haul 5th wheels and the tires would have half a tread and tell me they will be fine--LOLOL. Umm NO! , All the boat tips are so great, some dont apply but it is good learning and it keeps me outta trouble--Ha ha - iam 59 - did i say iam married AND have a boat. It was great comms here- take care all :)
Hey Sean, have you ever considered stand up comedy I think you wpould be GREAT at it
lol, are you pulling my leg?! 🤣
lol no I'm not. I'd pay tp see you!!
@@boatinglessons
@@greggo502 Very kind words! Thank you 🙂
I live in the Midwest. I replace my tires at the end of the 4th year. I’ve learned from experience that 5 and beyond is questionable. 27 years of 1200 miles a year of trailering the boat. 5 is probably OK but I worry about a failure on the road instead of enjoying the trip. Lol. Proper inflation is critical. I check the bearing temp at every stop on longer trips.
Something to note is that the jack that comes with your tow vehicle may not necessarily work to jack up trailer to change a flat. And your lug wrench may also be the wrong size to fit the trailer lugs. I carry an old spare scissor jack, breaker bar and right sized lug socket in my truck in case I get a flat. I just leave them in my truck for the summer so I never have to think about loading them ever time.
I found that out the hard way so to speak. Had a flat thought I had all the bases covered carrying a separate 2t floor jack just in case. Found out that with the tire flat my jack still wasn't low enough to get under the axle😮. First thing i did was grab a new tire and a low profile racing jack.
two items that I always do are. Small cheap trailers use wiring harnesses with crimp-on connectors, I remove them and solder
the connection. never a bad connection after that. The other item I do once a year is to remove all the wheel lug nuts and brush
on anti-seize. Again I no longer have seized on lug nut that can ruin your day if you need to change a tire especially on the side
of the road.
Good info here. Since retirement, I tow my boat round trip from NY to FL every year, and total close to 5K miles a year. The additional miles have made me more attentive to my trailer as previously, the only issue was age. One thing I screwed up for years was tire pressure. I had no idea that trailer tires call for much higher pressures than car tires. My one bearing failure occurred after my dealer changed them (perhaps he over tightened one of the four). Now, I have bearings and tires checked at least every year.
Thanks for the video.
Trailer tires also have a lower speed rating and blow out easier at higher temps/speeds. I see guys going 90 pulling their boats on Texas toll roads and wonder if they realize the tire speed ratings are often lower than their vehicle tires.
@@moonpiespotlight4759 most trailer tires are rated 55mph, some are 70 and some are 80 depending on the ply rating
An easy bearing check is to feel the hubs' temperatures whenever you stop. They'll usually start to run hot well before a failure.
I carry a spare hub and 2 spare tires (one on the trailer, one in the truck) because once you replace a flat on the road you don't have a spare for the return trip. If you replace your hubs on a regular basis, keep a good one in a large ziplock bag all greased and ready to go. Carry a short piece of 2x4 and a rubber mallet if you have bearing buddies. I carry two floor jacks since a ruined hub on a soft shoulder means you need to get the trailer high enough to get a jack under the axle, then I carry a piece of thick plywood to use as a base for the jacks. Yeah I carry a lot of stuff.
Better safe than sorry.
It's better to have it and not need it, then to need it and not have it.
i take it you have a huge truck.
I thought I knew everything about my trailer....but nope. Thanks so much for the video!
Level towing is important. Measure distance from ground to bottom of coupler when trailer tongue is level. Measure distance from ground to top of receiver on the tow vehicle. The difference between these two measurements is the rise or drop needed to position the trailer ball for level towing. Then the proper height ball mount can be selected for the vehicle and trailer being towed.
Regardless of outside appearance, I wouldn't use a trailer tire over 6 years unless: 1) It was a radial 2) It is stored inside and off the floor (Trailer jacked up). 3) The travel is limited to local boat ramps. Like you said, after 10 years it doesn't matter what they look like. Great video.
Agreed. I’ve seen perfectly good looking tires shred that were 7 years old. I never met my trailer tires get over 5 years old regardless of appearance.
No mention of balancing trailer tires .
@@hotchihuahua1546 To me, balanced tires are a given.
@@timothystevens4840that’s you and me but check most trailers and the tires aren’t balanced . Lol
A spare is also overlooked .
I like to carry a laser temperature gauge. ($20) After trailering for at least 20 - 30 minutes check the temperature of the hubs. If you have one on its way out it will start to run hot. I like to see them at around 95 degrees. If you have one exceeding 105 on a regular basis, it's worthy of a closer bearing inspection.
Way way to much......just touch them they will either be kinda warm or too hot to touch.....or listen for sqweeks......
It's great for checking the temp at the hot springs, also. I am not crawling all the way under the trailer to touch dirty, hot stuff. Infrared imager works well, also!
Before towing my boat, I put a box in the back of my truck, locked under cover, that contains all I can think of for towing. I call in the "Jack In The Box". Inflator, lug wrench, hub kit, jack, scotches, on and on. When I return home, the box goes on the bow of the boat. Wont trailer anywhere without the box! I have not needed it, but have encountered others who did! Win win!!
Can you provide a comprehensive list of the Jack in the Box? Need to put mine together and you have some great ideas! Thanks!
@@brunkbrunkbrunk J.I.T.B. Goodies: Old rubber door mat rolled up (So jack won't slip), Good 4 way, Extra Jack, Extra Hub Kit, EZ Lift Half Moon thing, goes under axle, back up to lift trailer (No jacking!), Mini Compressor, Milwaukee Cordless 1/2" impact, Gloves, paper towels, rubber wheel scotches, roadside reflectors, and other things relating ONLY to trailer. Tools for the boat go in the boat!
@@brunkbrunkbrunk ...and anything else that helps YOU!!
When not using your trailer, don't leave it parked on grass or any other organic material such as grass. It will degrade at an increased rate. Use dead mater instead, such as a concrete slab under each tire.
Also avoid leaving it in direct sunlight, the UV radiation also takes a big toll on the rubber.
Good video!
Ozone actually is the bigger problem that degrades and breaks down vulcanized rubber. Better to just pay the piper and upgrade trailer tires every 5th year at the longest.
I know all of this but it's good to get a re-fresher every once in a while. thank you
Sean I have been following you from Pentiction BC in Canada.
You have taught me so much as a first time boat owner.
Thank you.
Sorry I always think of other things after I post. I also use 303 protectant spray to keep the tires from drying out. Tire foam and the tire shine products make the rubber in the tires deteriorate faster, 303 protectant helps keep the rubber moist and flexible.
If you have a E-Z loader,or any trailer with roller bunks,beware!If the rubber wheels wear out ,the brackets that hold them will go right through your hull ! I drilled a hole though the washer that helps hold the rubber wheels on and spray a lubricant in every year .White lithium works well.Happy boating!
Grease is not good. It attracts dirt, sand, and gravel and hold it thus wearing greased components out. Use a spray silicone that dries and leaves a lubricated film...
I always feel the hub and around the lug nuts at the first stop. A hot hub or rim is a good sign you waited to long to inspect the bearings and/or lug nuts.
1. Boat dealers commonly sell trailers that ‘barely’ carry the boat mainly to keep price tags down on packages. I’ve seen too many boats at 95-100% of a trailer’s capacity and that’s not even accounting for any gear laden into the boat afterwards.
2. Do your own checks and do NOT reply on anyone else. Check yourself your tire pressures and lug nut torques! My brand new $20k tri-axle trailer had all tires including 2 spares all under inflated (averaged 50-55 psi when they should have been 80 psi) And i went back to trailer manufacturer who had a guy re-torque the lugs as recommended after some initial miles (he only tested and re-torqued some lugs. After a few hundred miles, i sheared off a tire and wheel (lugs sheared right off!). Checked lugs myself and found most needed tighten significantly and then also found all tires under inflated. Grrrrrr.
Also, it's a good idea to disconnect the power from your lights prior to backing the trailer down into the water. Water and electricity don't play nice together, especially salt water.
DC works fine in water. Now, salt water is another story!
If your electrical system is allowing water into it, disconnecting power s going to do very little good for longevity.
If you have LED lights your fine......if you have normal lights.....COLD.....water like below 60°.....will pop hot bulbs.....if your bulbs are cold waters not freezing.....they should be fine underwater.....it's cold water cracking hot glass.....not really water touching wire....and if your worried about that is check your connections.....
@@YourMomsPlaceLastNight Normal bulbs are fine in a water proof housing and very few aren't waterproof these days.
That doesn’t work on my trailer. my reverse lights activates a trailer brake bypass allowing me to back up.
One thing I would add to your, very informative video, is to check the shackle bolts and bushings :)
That is not on our normal check list and perhaps it should be.
shooting the bearing with a laser
thermometer at the end of a drive is a great way to see if one is getting hot
Add wiring too. Never use those Green Yellow Brown wiring kits unless you want to rewire your trailer every three years. I replaced my wiring with marine grade tinned wiring. Only the marker/fender lights have a connection that is underwater. AND there is no such thing as waterproof lights. My lights are mounted on my guide poles. I use the shrink solder connectors as well. Also I mounted red marker lights on the back, facing towards the tow vehicle, of the guide pole lights wired to brake/turn lights so I can see my brake/turn lights in my rear view mirror so I know my lights are working.
I use epoxy lined heat shrink and overlap a longer piece over a shorter one for double protection. Liquid tape is also a good product to coat a connection with. It's not pretty but in a hidden space you can use a wire nut on at-risk connections and simply dip the entire wire nut into the liquid tape to completely seal the connection (telephone companies used to do this with buried cables). I have nav lights with hidden wiring in the bow of my boat that have these types of connections for 20 years without any issues.
Tip number one reveals mistake number one. Don’t rely on the winch to secure the front of the boat to the trailer. Put a chain of proper length from the bow eye to the trailer frame.
Correct that is standard in New Zealand my country
Good video. No matter how much you know, or think you know, you can always learn something that might save you trouble.
"Trailer manufactures don't always use the best quality tires" you say....the China bombs that came with our trailer literally started coming apart in the second year from very easy normal highway paved road driving. Buyer beware. Always buy brand name trailer tires from a reputal tire shop.
I would add to check your axle U bolts for corrosion every year. Loosen and re-torque your wheel lug nuts every 6 months.
Good advice. Its common sense. Something people don't have.
Great advice...as a boat owner for over 40 years, I've had a bearing go dry and ruin a trip. Fortunately no one was injured, nor the trailer ruined.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for the kind words :)
I've had that same experience...not fun.
Hi Sean. Great video! Any advise on the vault hubs? They say no maintenance required but my trailer is 11 years old now and ive taken it to two shops(Boat and general mechanic) and both have said they look fine and dont recommend replacement or servicing. Any tips or learnings you have over the years?
Always have the caps on your bearing buddies and Grease them once a year ?
A few pumps till you see the bearing buddy come out a little bit ?
On every trip or two after you’ve driven at least twenty minutes, check temperature on trailer hubs by touching dust cap. If one is hot it could mean problem w bearing. And don’t forget to check tire pressure on trailer spare…it wont do you much good if under inflated. In your truck or boat have some spare bulbs for trailer lights…they go out fairly often and are easily replaced if you have em on hand.
I put a 10,000 pound winch strap on..Im new to boating, and just got this 20ft boat..The last owner had tied a knot to the hook that connects to the boat, it was broken..Hopefully my 2,900 pound boat is secure with that, and the transom straps
Check the two rear straps after you have gone down the road for a while.
You mentioned about the strap from Winch to Boat, check for wear, how about the safety chain which goes from boat frame to Bow eyebolt. I've witnessed a boat fly off a trailer without a safety chain attached. FibreGlass and asphalt don't mix well at 60 MPH. Montreal Bass Boat.
It seems like bunks should be made of solid synthetic decking material. If you bolt them to the trailer with countersunk carriage bolts and wrap them with carpet, they should work the same without rotting. They are more expensive than wood, but you are only buying 2-4 of them. Is there any drawback?
Synthetic decking material doesn't have the support. That's why you need 12" on center joists to avoid sagging and why substructure of decking is normally lumber. Also there's no holding power to them so using a lag bolt in them is a non-starter since below the surface coating is mostly pressed material. Even PVC boards don't have the best holding ability with screws, and don't have structural support. There's nothing wrong with using lumber as long as you continue to service your trailer regularly. Bunks should last several years.
That said, there are synthetic bunk boards but they are really expensive and aren't made from decking material.
@moonpiespotlight4759 a piece of aluminum angle backing the board would take care of the sagging. Of course, you just bolt through them to negate the weak holding power.
Always check the hub temperature (by hand) after the first 10-20 miles of a trip. Hot hubs indicate problems: overloading, contaminated or low grease, or worn bearings. Have an extra set of bearings, a grease gun with marine wheel bearing grease, a bottle jack, a spare tire, tools for a tire change and a tire pump with gauge. Traffic cones add to tire change safety. Also do not exceed the speed limits of your tires. A good idea to upgrade tires on a new trailer, keep the old ones as spares. When storing your trailer, keep the tires on wood planks (not on the dirt or grass) and cover the tires from the sun. Check tire pressure periodically, as low tire pressure compromises tire integrity while in storage.
If you have a tandem or a triple and the suspension gets very load, (leaf spring type)check your equalizers as the holes may be egged out and will need replaced , also there is a new bearing buddy out there with blue inserts which tells you when to add grease !
Although it is an extra added hassle, if you travel high speed and long distances with your boat trailer , balance your tires !
In Florida if your trailer tires are outside you'll only get 4 maybe 5 years out of them Quit sinking your trailer too. The deeper your trailer goes into the water the more water pressure pushes into those bearing wheel seals and bearing caps. Once water gets into the bearings its only a short time before that bearing fails. I'd say that is one of the most common launching mistakes people make. I've got my trailer set up so only the rear of the bunks need to be submerged to launch and load my boat. The bearings are only 8" deep.
Or just shoot grease into the bearing after every trip so it pushes the water out…
@@jakemedley7423 actually that will blow out the rear seal. Then the grease slings out and the bearing fails.
@@JeffBattleFish no it won’t if your careful and only do enough to displace the water
@@jakemedley7423 Where does the water go?
#1 get your boat and trailer weighed, to make sure the trailer is not overloaded. Boats, and RVs often weigh more than what the manufacturer says it does, and most boat/trailer combinations at best only have about 10% tire reserve capacity, versus your tow vehicle which usually will have 25-30% even at full load. I have had good luck with Kenda Load Star K550 Bias ply tires, I think they hold up better than cheap radials.
Great advice! Thank you for sharing :)
I like to add to the safety of the trailer wheels. Make sure you're not overloading the tires. the tires should have a max load weight on them. know the boat weight with the normal loading ie. gas full tank, any additional weight like t tops, added seats etc. Know the weight of the trailer (without boat on it). Also, if you put coolers, heavy tackle boxes, and other added weight, make sure you don't exceed the load weight of the tires.If you have a heavy boat, I recommend dual axles or even three depending on weight. Also a point to make is know your safe trailering weight of your vehicle and the safe tongue weight of your trailer hench. God bless and happy boating.
After you've inspected everything and are ready to go, take a minute, walk around your trailer, and Re- Check for anything you might have missed 🙈 . Have your boating companion check it as well. Always try and take a friend with you, even if you're a "pro" !!! God Bless ⚓️👍⚓️
Carry a good spare trailer tire.
Don't grease trailer lug bolts.
Inspect COUPLER every trip.
Carry a spare wheel bearing set; bearings and races can be changed by most owners who carry tools or any decent shop but you need to have the replacement.
Read your trailer brake controller manual and understand how brake controls work.
Don't load your boat with other stuff that stresses your hull or overloads your trailer.
Know how much tongue and axle weight you are towing.
Carry a small grease gun with bearing grease; apply a thin layer on trailer ball each trip (but not on Andersen brand hitches)
I use acorn style lug nuts with a bit of grease on each stud, torqued to spec. Never had a lug nut problem.
It amazes me that the USA hasn't discovered wobble rollers for their trailers yet. That's really all we use in New Zealand. They enable you to approach the trailer with the boat at a wide range of angles. Way way way better than bunks. They grab the boat and centre it.
Not sure if you mean the same thing, but rollers are a common option on trailers. Many people don't like them because your boat rolls off as easy as it rolls on. You have to have 2 experienced people to load and unload a boat. With bunks, you can park so it's almost floating, unhook from the trailer and pull it off with the engine, then park the boat and go move your truck. If you have rollers, the boat is going off the back of the trailer the second you loosen the strap, if you are in it or not. There are ways around this, but they involve a second rope. With bunks, as long as the trailer is as the right depth, the boat stays in place while you get in and out.
When I was a kid that is all you saw was wobble rollers. There were many different kinds. they have faded out over the years. Newer trailers have precision placed bunks specific to the boat it was built for that work great. Wobble rollers are more versatile and good if you are using your trailer to haul a variety of hull size and shapes.
It depends on where in the USA you are….in the north east where the tides change water depth 6 feet from low to high tide you see plenty of full roller trailers. Tides & shallow ramps are difficult for bunk trailers a roller can be used where a bunk cannot.
Good video and very good advices. Double check for safety!
What pressure tire is recommended, besides the interval marked on it?
The max pressure is written right on the side of the tire. It is usually between 50 and 70 psi.
We trailer our boat 850 miles round trip 2 or 3 times a year. We never go longer than 6 years on a set of tires even tho our boat is garaged. Our trailer has oil-filled hubs. Was not sure if I would like them, but they are GREAT! Safe trailering & boating to all!
One important part of boat trailer maintenance is to ensure that the inside of the hitch coupler is clean of sand or dirt. Then ensure you grease the hitch ball to reduce wear and tear of the trailer coupler.
you forgot to mention checking the trailer surge brake fluid and brake system!
I would suggest having an extra spindle for a heavy trailer if you put a lot of miles on it.
I live near a river that is super busy with boats and rafts as soon as the high water goes down. There have been several fires that were caused by wheel bearing failure and dragging safety chains. Dry grass from July on ignites fast. I remember one summer a trailer safety chain dragging made fires all along I-90 for over 50 miles. It seems like the guy was chased down by the Highway Patrol and stopped. I think he had to pay for damages and fire suppression as well.
La crosse Wisconsin area?
How about maintenance on the tow vehicle. I just had to have my rear differential on my Dodge Ram rebuilt. Regardless of submersion
Over time water contact can degrade
Lubricants causing bearing ir gear failure.
This is a great info video 👍👍
Make sure to put the PLUG in😎🇺🇸
After having a utility trailer come off the ball years ago, I am in the habit of jacking the trailer tongue a bit to make sure it's locked on properly.
Great Video! Thanks!
I just saw you guys making the mistake of jacking the trailer up by the axle. Can bend the axle doing that…especially if you have the weight of a boat on it. You of all people should know to jack up a trailer by the frame. Pick closest point to the wheel. Also careful you don’t pinch any wires that may be coming out of the frame at the jack point you pick.
Thanks for the tips and reminders!
You are so welcome!
How about the trailer brake fluid? Mine says to check everytime you take your boat out.
The number one cause of wheel bearing failure is preloading the bearings.
The wheel bearing needs to have clearance you should have about 1/8 of a inch play at the top of the wheel.
If you adjust it with no play when the bearing heats up and expands it will reduce the clearance and become preloaded then overheat and fail.
Over tightened wheel bearings fail very very quickly.
A bearing with excessive clearance does not fail because of excessive clearance.
Use a good quality grease,adjust the bearing correctly use a bearing buddy and wait for hub to cool down before submerging in water and you will never have a bearing failure.
Service your bearings once a year especially on trailers with small wheels.
1/8 inch is a lot. Way more than the bearing expands. Finger tight is what I’ve always gone by
1/8 play at the top of the wheel is next to nothing at the bearing, finger tight on the adjustment nut is zero clearance on the bearing cold and preloaded when hot.I have serviced and adjusted 1000s of wheel bearings I was taught this 45 years ago by WW2 mechanics.@@BabyGators
I was using my trailer in both fresh and salt water. I used anti seize lube on the lugnuts. I tightened the lugs as usual but going down the road one tire came off. I ended up having to take one lug nut off the other tires so I could get to a parts store. Live and learn. Thankfully it was only a 14' aluminum boat.
I pull trailers on salted roads...
Having lug nuts freeze on and have to replace studs due to twisting them off while trying to remove them...lesson learned..
As a general rule don't lube lug nuts with anything....
I do because I'll need to get them off one day...
Also.. retorque after a few miles and you probably will never have a problem..
Oh....if you depended on toque wrench on those rusty bolts ,you'll really be under tightening....
You'll have to use some good judgment while doing so....or replace all studs and nuts every few years...
@@jonjacobjingleheimerschmid3798 Need to adjust torque specs if you're lubricating threads.
@@moonpiespotlight4759 what part of
" freezing on" did you miss?
As not many actually toque wrench anyway...I only do on emergency equipment and now and again to keep that muscle memory accurate
So everything is " goodntight"
There's are not really any excuses. 1. The 'Bearing Buddy' type grease fitting allows anyone to load the wheel bearings with fresh grease frequently with ease. 2. The powerful cordless brushless impact wrenches allows easy swapping the spare onto the trailer anywhere. 3. Take care of your trailer tires. I recommend checking air pressure as often as possible. Never store trailer with wheel touching the ground for long periods of time to prevent dry rot. Tires don't last forever. After awhile they need replaced, even if they look OK. Always make sure your lights are working correctly. Keep a spare bulb available, or better yet, upgrade to LED. I always disconnect my trailer wire harness before backing it into the water. It only takes a second to unplug and re-plug.
I saw a really bad bass boat bunk break. Boy was that bad. Evidently it had came almost off on the rear and as he was loading the boat the bunk just kind of floated away from the bracket. Well the bracket ripped a deep tear about 1-1.5 feet long before he realized it was happening. I noticed he had a new boat the next year. He said his insurance covered it.
Use waterproof grease!!!!
I’ve seen too many people use automotive grease on their bearings. It turns into a whipped goo with very little lubricating properties.
Bearings on trailers get changed all the time in my boat yard.
Never a bad idea.
another thing I do is I use tire covers, yes they can be expensive and a pain in the you know what, but they help protect the tires from UV rays which also speed up dry rot.
Do you use them on your vehicle as well? My Truck sits in the sun just like my boat, I don't worry about dry rot. Tires should be replaced on a timed basis, not by tread wear (especially on boat trailers).
Dirt road, it’s good to have a spring blade in the tool kit🎉
On the safety chain, DO NOT USE the steel cable that many trailer manufacturers install. I learned this the hard way when my trailer disengaged from the ball and the cables failed. Yes, they snapped like rubber bands. the trailer and boat were going down the highway on their own. Yikes! It was a horrible experience and luckily my boat and trailer survived. with a few repairs to the trailer and a scratched boat. Luckily there was a concrete barrier on the right and I was in the right lane. It could have been catastrophic. I now have heavy duty chains as my safety net. I also installed a safety chain to catch the boat if the strap you wind the boat back on the trailer fails. I then had heavy duty tie-downs welded on the trailer to keep the rear of the boat trailered properly. Don't trust what these trailer manufacturers are putting out. They are cutting corners. Best to learn from others' mistakes. You're welcome.
Yes on the safety chain!
Consider visually inspecting all welds underneath your trailer. If it has rubber coated /under armor type of coating inspect the weld joins for cracks and rust. Water can pool there and the crack/rusting process begins.
50-100K costs for boats nowadays do yourself a favor and replace your tires much sooner than later even if it has just been sitting.
1 ruined trip because of a bad tire is just not worth it IMHO.
Great vid. One question , can I jack the trailer with boat on and using a car jack ? Thanks
Yes, you can as long as the other wheel is safely checked and you don’t go too high.
I’ve never seen a frayed chain in my life!!!!
Exactly. Those steel cables on the other hand, will fail.
I had a 6000 lb chain snap with a Pontiac V8 and tranny hanging on an engine hoist once. Made me a frayed!! Upon further inspection found two nicks in one of the chain links like somebody hit it with a hatchet. That motor dropped REAL fast!
My boat goes in and out of salt water, so I dedicate a day before boating season to taking the wheels off, replacing the bearing inner and outer and lots of lube, the brakes rot completely out so I removed them and I dont care what they say no one makes trailer lights that last for more than a two years.
You guys hit a lot of it, but a couple things you missed were :
1. When checking your bearings, make sure you hit your bearing buddies with a little grease at the end of each season. Just make sure the cap that's under spring tension is somewhere in the middle of where it rides.
2. After driving for a while, check the temperature of your hubs. They should be a little warm but not hot. If they're hot, you have a bearing or brake issue that needs to be addressed before you go much further.
3. Trailer brakes should be inspected once a season, especially if you launch your boat in salt water.
4. Last but not least, carefully wash your trailer any time it has been exposed to salt. Giving it a dunk in a fresh water lake after it's been in salt water is a great idea. Just make sure you're not introducing any invasive species into said lake. A quick dunk in fresh water should work to get a lot of salt off the trailer while not giving critters enough time to jump off your boat. If your boat has a lot of growth on it, you might want to start by pressure washing your setup before taking it to the lake.
If you launch in salt water always rinse the trailer with fresh water. Pay special attention to the leaf springs.
Inflate tires to maximum stated pressure. A full tire runs cooler because there is less material in contact with the road. Heat buildup is the #1 cause of blow outs - not road hazards. Any defect or ageing of the tire will be found and exploited by heat.
Tires have a shelf life. I got a blowout on a trailer tire. It had no visible damage. The tires were 10 years old but still had the little nubs on the side and looked new. I found out that tires need to be replaced every 8 or 9 years.😢
5 years for me, travel trailer, boat trailer, and utility trailer
trailer tires are only good for about 2 years here in Arizona when the boat is stored outside. 4 years if you're extremely lucky but i wouldn't risk it.
The more intense the sun, the more they rot - agreed!
Robert
I understand about the Arizona sun. Does that also apply to car tires? Every two years would get expensive.
@@darrelldreher5980
Nope. Car tires seem to do relatively fine. Not sure if its the quality or the load or both that reduce the trailer tires life.
@@robertsaget9697 probably because of the time sitting
I’d also check my bearing buddies after a trip and make sure they’re not too hot ?
You guys kind of "missed the boat" with this video. You really didn't talk about "mistakes". This is more of a "Things to inspect on your trailer" video. What about: How to clean and maintain electrical connections; How to check axle alignment; How to prevent or slow dry rot on tires. How to verify tongue weight and adjust if needed.
Or better yet, that bearings don't leak, seals do!
Then make a video and show us how.
You make a video! @@NTSAdventures
You must be real fun at parties. I wish the dislike counter was still active!
@@jen4739Yeah, we know… And tires don’t go flat, the air just comes out.
My boat trailer has oilbath hubs.. are they maintenance free? Thank you
When backing trailer into the water is it ok to leave lights plugged in? Or disconnect?
You will get an answer 50/50 on that one! We always leave them connected with new issue.
If you have a trailer with serge disc brakes you need to have the trailer plugged in to operate the solenoid that keeps the brakes from engaging
With newer LED lights they should be better
I like to unplug. I don't have LED's.
I leave mine connected and have even dunked them. If the housing is sealed with wiring it shouldn't be an issue.
Trailer tires… regardless of miles after 8-10 years REPLACE THEM. And buy good ones. They dry rot just sitting, and greatly increase a chance of a blowout. Think about how many times you’ve seen a trailer on the side of the road with a blown tire…
Also pay attention to the speed rating of the tires! A lot of cheaper trailer tires for 15” and smaller wheels are only speed rated to 65-72mph. I had to shop around to get 14” tires that are rated for 80+
Good advice from "gonna wanna".
Great Channel!
Good info on DOT year. Question on tire PSI. Is that with the boat on or off the trailer ??
I would check loaded.
Canada at Least in Ontario they don’t care about e age if the tire some how
Always unplug the trailer lights when backing in
How do you check hub torque? Never seen a chart for torque specs on the castle nut.
The castle nut isn't torqued, its retained from spinning off by a cotter pin. Do a search for details, but basically you tighten the nut down to seat the bearings, then back it off till loose, hand tighten then insert cotter pin. Check wheel for run-out and adjust aaccordingly. There are many videos that show this.
You should have straps across the boat holding it onto the trailer proper chain holding the trailer to the car - remove the hub do it with the tyre still on look into the rear bearing most bearings are cheap seals are cheap 30 min to 1 hour per side so you have a cold drink on afternoon
i have some noticeable vibration the first few miles of towing my boat but it goes away.tires are new bearings are good cant figure out why.maybe have tires balanced and weighted? everything is like new so I'm stumped.? any suggestions
It could be that the tires themselves take a slight shape (flatten a bit) where they sit at rest when not in use. Once the tires heat up after the first few miles, they soften and return to proper shape.
Agree
Check air pressure in tires, making sure it is the same as specified on tire. Lower pressure will contribute to flat spotting g.
Well stay away from my area, on weekends, for every bass boat there's literally fifty pleasure boats, Jetskis and wake boat.
while checking bearings you should check up and down not side to side and just because it has a bearing buddy doesn't mean it don't need to be repacked bearing buddies don't account for bearing wear !! be safe !
Just get fuel axel trailer. So if tire goes flat. You can just take one off. And chain up axel. To get home. !!
Dual not fuel
What happened to winching your boat onto your trailer. Submerging your boat trailer to launch and retrieve your boat is so destructive in a saltwater environment. These days, with the advent of power winches, this makes wetting your trailer unnecessary and will save you time and expense of replacement... and talking of trailer design, what happened to tilt trailers? The modern boat trailer is designed to fail in a few years, I have a big hardtop fibreglass boat on a forty year old trailer, painted only no gal. The boat sits low on multi-rollers, just the tyres and the rear gimbed rollers get wet . The power winch takes only seventeen seconds to winch the boat onto the trailer, knowing the suspension and wheel bearings are high and dry. Having to wet a boat trailer to launch and retrieve only favours trailer manufacturers. Cheers
good stuff.👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you Perry!
You should not leave your boat trailer, or any trailer for that matter with the tires setting on the ground. Park it on concrete or lay down a strip of plywood to keep them off the dirt. This will help prevent premature dry rot. I do this to all my trailers and replace the plywood if it starts to deteriorate.
Good stuff.
Thank you Donald!
How much grease for the bearing buddies?
I pump mine until the spring loaded piston moves out.
And always use waterproof grease!!!!!
How about greasing the bearings?
Trailer the boat covered or uncovered? (Assume highway speeds)
If possible, uncovered. It is really hard on the covers.
It depends on if your cover is rated for travel. Some are and some are not.
If I do all that checking every trip, I wont have any time to fish. I check mine once a year.
🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟The oval circle @1" long with 4 numbers in side - first 2 are year and second 2 are week of that year. Example: 2216 - year 2022 and produced the 16th week of 2022. , I do not know in Canada, Iam from the U.S.A. . Thank you for your videos :)
Thanks for the info!
Actually it's the other way around. The first two numbers are the week and the last two are the year of production. Hope this helps.
Also while the D.O.T. numbers are on both sides, the date code is sometimes only on one side.
@@YesThatSuperDave , Awww yes LOL, it has been many years since I have had to worrie about the dates. I use to haul 5th wheels and the tires would have half a tread and tell me they will be fine--LOLOL. Umm NO! , All the boat tips are so great, some dont apply but it is good learning and it keeps me outta trouble--Ha ha - iam 59 - did i say iam married AND have a boat. It was great comms here- take care all :)
@@twlyons1 I've had people tell me," Those tires are new, I just put them on last year." When in reality the tires are 10+ years old.
@@YesThatSuperDave LOLOL, yeah, time slips away some times ha ha.
Ten years on trailer tires is risky business. Replacing them at 5-7 years is a safer bet.