Great video, thank you! one tip- put a couple lug nuts on to hold the rotor when putting the caliper back on. And My buddy turned me onto his find: the Kodiak 225 SS Stainless Steel kit! All stainless caplipers, rotors, bracket and pad backs. Pricey but worth it. Going to install next week.
Nice quality video...I would recommend replacing the disc at the same time as the pads. The amount of rust shown on your discs makes me wonder if your brakes were even working properly in the first place.
Have you considered the one-man bleeding trick with a bottle filled with brake fluid? I saw a few videos on UA-cam and even the etrailer people said that it would work.
Itl be ok! It’s the same as letting your car sit for a few days after a rain. Rotors will develop some rust on them, but first use Itl wear off. Worse case is the pads get a little more wear to them for the first few brakes. Based on how much the trailer gets used, shouldn’t really affect the overall life of the pad. Best practice, especially in saltwater is to make sure you rinse off the brakes after an outing!
I had 3 different trailers with brakes every one had the factory brakes and in 3 months of being new failed even when flushed with fresh water salt water and brakes don't mix
@@boatingpropless My buddy turned me onto his find: the Kodiak 225 SS Stainless Steel kit! All stainless caplipers, rotors, bracket and pad backs. Pricey but worth it.
FYI. You must bend over the tabs on the outer pads. If you do not, then that pad will not stay in the proper position on the rotor. It will fall and wear the pads and rotors in the wrong place. Best way to bend is to put a wrench under the pad and pry up on the pad to hold it in place against the rotor at the hub. Then hammer them over. Doesn't take much.
@@boatingpropless ok yeah cause a shop I took it to says they are rusted so they need to be changed...lol...i am being charged $1,800 for 4 rototrs and full brakes cause the pads disintegrated...i will be moving it back home to do this myself and see if anyone can "turn" the rotors...
your doing it wrong... pump the piston and hold and keep pressure.. Open the bleed port. let fluid and air out. close the port. Pump the piston on few times and repeat until clean fluid or no more air comes out. Never let off the piston with bleed port open this will allow suction and air back into the bleed port. or Water that you put in the bottle. It has to be a closed loop system they way you think you are doing.
Yes. That’s what I was demonstrating. She was holding pressure on the actuator, while I was opening and closing the valve with the other end of the tube in the water bottle.
Great video, thank you! one tip- put a couple lug nuts on to hold the rotor when putting the caliper back on. And My buddy turned me onto his find: the Kodiak 225 SS Stainless Steel kit! All stainless caplipers, rotors, bracket and pad backs. Pricey but worth it. Going to install next week.
Very nicely ( might I say professionally) done ! Clear video , no extraneous yapping !
Thank you very much!
Ist video I've seen on how to bleed surge brakes. Thanks for the help.
Glad I could help!
Thank you for the explanations.
No problem! 👍🏻
Nice quality video...I would recommend replacing the disc at the same time as the pads. The amount of rust shown on your discs makes me wonder if your brakes were even working properly in the first place.
The disc was actually ok. The trailer had been sitting all winter so the rust built up. One trip and it was clean and smooth again.
Wow, thank you! Very informative and helpful!!! 👍
Thank you! Glad I could help!
Great video, super helpful!
Thank you!
Great video! Thanks much…
No problem! 👍🏻
Have you considered the one-man bleeding trick with a bottle filled with brake fluid? I saw a few videos on UA-cam and even the etrailer people said that it would work.
I have my doubts about the condition of that rotor, appears in need of resurfacing or replacing. Could prematurely wear down pads. I think.
Itl be ok! It’s the same as letting your car sit for a few days after a rain. Rotors will develop some rust on them, but first use Itl wear off. Worse case is the pads get a little more wear to them for the first few brakes. Based on how much the trailer gets used, shouldn’t really affect the overall life of the pad. Best practice, especially in saltwater is to make sure you rinse off the brakes after an outing!
Agreed, my vehicles have rust colored rotors after just a day or so of non use in moist conditions. If that's all it was, no worries.@@boatingpropless
I had 3 different trailers with brakes every one had the factory brakes and in 3 months of being new failed even when flushed with fresh water salt water and brakes don't mix
I know. It salt kills everything. I wish my trailer didn’t need its brakes.
@@boatingpropless My buddy turned me onto his find: the Kodiak 225 SS Stainless Steel kit! All stainless caplipers, rotors, bracket and pad backs. Pricey but worth it.
FYI. You must bend over the tabs on the outer pads. If you do not, then that pad will not stay in the proper position on the rotor. It will fall and wear the pads and rotors in the wrong place. Best way to bend is to put a wrench under the pad and pry up on the pad to hold it in place against the rotor at the hub. Then hammer them over. Doesn't take much.
Yes! 👍🏻 The stainless pads are extremely difficult to bend however.
Surprised you didn’t turn the rotors.
Novice question…electric or hydraulic break system?
Full hydraulic!
so my rotor looks like that...not shaving it?
Rotor operates perfectly fine. The trailer was sitting all winter. A few times on the brakes, and the pads wore the rust right off.
@@boatingpropless ok yeah cause a shop I took it to says they are rusted so they need to be changed...lol...i am being charged $1,800 for 4 rototrs and full brakes cause the pads disintegrated...i will be moving it back home to do this myself and see if anyone can "turn" the rotors...
Is the Shorlandr single axle (Yamaha 195 sport FSH) about the same process?
It’s probably incredibly close. The sizes of the bolts may be different, but the process should be the same.
Great thanks for quick response!
Nice
Thanks!
Very well done! Thanks.
Thank you!
When you put pads on and rotor doesn't turn as free should you be worried. The back pad has play but front pad touching.
You’ll be alright. The first time you use the brakes they’ll compress
Mike, I'll pay you a handsome fee to do the same with my trailer!
Easy peasy! Let me know when! Lol
This is incorrect way to bleed surge brakes. The bleed screw has to be closed while pumping the actuator
That is true. I have the screw closed to build up pressure and then opened as the actuator is held.
I can’t believe you put new brake pads on those busted ass rotors
your doing it wrong... pump the piston and hold and keep pressure.. Open the bleed port. let fluid and air out. close the port. Pump the piston on few times and repeat until clean fluid or no more air comes out. Never let off the piston with bleed port open this will allow suction and air back into the bleed port. or Water that you put in the bottle. It has to be a closed loop system they way you think you are doing.
Yes. That’s what I was demonstrating. She was holding pressure on the actuator, while I was opening and closing the valve with the other end of the tube in the water bottle.
@boatingpropless , you were NOT doing this. You could see the helper pumping the valve and the bleed screw was open. You did it wrong!
You're right! This was done incorrectly. Bleed screw has to be closed while pumping the actuator. Then hold actuator and open bleed screw
I'm also shocked he reused those rotors. That was way more than just surface rust
@@Eric-zs6rdyeah, WTF!