This is exactly my problem I have a 1.8 engine with 234,000 miles. Is a nightmare Engine oil just changed it Got to be a timing thing. Thanks you are becoming my superhero 🎉 Thanks
Nice informative video! I need help; I am a "novice mechanic," and I replaced my water pump on my 2017 Ford Explorer xlt 3.5l. My experienced neighbor helped me along the entire project, or i dont think the car would have started. After 50 - 70 miles of driving, the codes will not go away. I replaced the solenoid sensors. Still nothing. My symptoms: Every time I excelerate at 50mph the acceleration slowly climbs, and the exhaust has a lower sound at times. Everything else seems to work good. Is it okay to drive? Any suggestions would be super helpful, thanks
Hello, you mentioned in an earlier video about nissans p0011, and p0021. Along with these codes, my 2010 altima sr wouldnt start the other day. (I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago) I disconnected the batt, connected and it started. It started a few more times with no issues, but my dash kept losing power and resetting, and then the car stalled and came back on while driving on the highway. You said something about it may be a cam sensor if you have both the codes? Let me know your opinions if you could, and I apologize for the word vomit
It needs to be diagnosed, but with both banks having an issue, the CAM sensors are likely good. It may be in the wiring, especially since there are dashboard issues. It can also be a slipped timing belt/chain or a VVT issue. It all needs to be tested and diagnosed to know the issue.
Since they added a computer and many sensors, engine repair went through the roof, but combustion efficiency went barely from 20% to 22 or 23% ..that's a very low gain to consumers..a rip off in other words.
![How to Fix P0017 Engine Code in 6 Minutes [4 DIY Methods / Only $6.81]](/img/n.gif)
This is exactly my problem I have a 1.8 engine with 234,000 miles.
Is a nightmare
Engine oil just changed it
Got to be a timing thing.
Thanks you are becoming my superhero 🎉
Thanks
Nice informative video! I need help; I am a "novice mechanic," and I replaced my water pump on my 2017 Ford Explorer xlt 3.5l. My experienced neighbor helped me along the entire project, or i dont think the car would have started. After 50 - 70 miles of driving, the codes will not go away. I replaced the solenoid sensors. Still nothing. My symptoms: Every time I excelerate at 50mph the acceleration slowly climbs, and the exhaust has a lower sound at times. Everything else seems to work good. Is it okay to drive? Any suggestions would be super helpful, thanks
Hello, you mentioned in an earlier video about nissans p0011, and p0021. Along with these codes, my 2010 altima sr wouldnt start the other day. (I replaced the battery 3 weeks ago) I disconnected the batt, connected and it started. It started a few more times with no issues, but my dash kept losing power and resetting, and then the car stalled and came back on while driving on the highway. You said something about it may be a cam sensor if you have both the codes? Let me know your opinions if you could, and I apologize for the word vomit
It needs to be diagnosed, but with both banks having an issue, the CAM sensors are likely good. It may be in the wiring, especially since there are dashboard issues. It can also be a slipped timing belt/chain or a VVT issue. It all needs to be tested and diagnosed to know the issue.
For this code’ would my whole engine need to be taking apart? That’s what one mechanic told me - is this true or is he just trying to get my money?
Nah he’s lying it’s just a sensor
No, If your timing is off then you need to tear the engine down. Its not always just a sensor@@jessica_adriana
@@joelh3030 ur right I changed both sensors and at cold start still rattles really
Loud it’s the timing chain
Since they added a computer and many sensors, engine repair went through the roof, but combustion efficiency went barely from 20% to 22 or 23% ..that's a very low gain to consumers..a rip off in other words.