@@zraal3759 Yea I just downloaded it, it works great not slow or anything. Thanks for the comment, for anyone else using an older comp like myself, lychee seems to work fine I downloaded the 64bit windows version.
I've been printing for a few months and this is definitely one of the better videos on process. Straightforward and not any more complicated than it needs to be
Smoothing the inside of a hollow model use the Quality slider underneath the hollow 3D thickness movel it up to 2.0 it will smooth the inside of your hollow prints mate! Use the interior/exterior setting over on left to view the inside to place your own inner supports! Hope this helps you out! It would be Nice to help out in return!
Hey thanks for the info. But If I printed with clear resin and the supports inside, The supports inside the models also visible right? how can I remove the supports inside? If u got any technique can u pls share?
My man... your support settings have been my base line since I've watched this video! I really appreciate your humor, and down to earth style...cheers mate! Once I get square...imma join patreon...thanks for helping is newbs out..
Either this space in 3d modeling about supporting your own models is super tiny (Not a lot of people) or this video hasn't received it's deserved amount of views and likes yet :) Super awesome dude. Thank you so much for this.
Great guide, I would also recommend to run it trough UVtools to catch on those lose 1 pixel small islands and resin traps to avoid issues on the next prints.
I just want to add. Anti aliasing will also change supports that contact the model at an angle. So if you are seeing failures after turning on AA but it was fine before you might need to change your exposure
You can right click on the hollownicon in left menu it'll bring up a setting menu that will make the outside see through so you can see the inside of the hollow model amd how thick your walls are ect it's either the hollow icon or one of the top I'll need to jump on mine I was using it yesterday I found all these different hidden like settings!
About hollowing with the internal Part beeing smooth: you can use Prusa Slicer just for hollow and put holes in the model Better internal part of the model and less islands in places near the holes
Phrozen Water Washable resin is comparable to your solution but in one bottle. It's strong but also has some give and flexibility, which overcomes the brittle problem inherent in a lot of resins.
Mixing Tenacious always works for me as well. I only use it with standard resin and not ABS-like. Great content. I love using Lychee Pro as well. Well worth the money.
So many supports on the inside makes it really hard to clean. Uncleaned, uncured resin on the inside can lead to cracking. I've seen posts on reddit of people's miniatures basically exploding after over a year because leftover resin slowly pressurized. I only ever put internal supports on internal islands. I also leave holes big enough to snake an ultraviolet LED to cure the insides of hollowed models.
I can say with confidence not a single one of my statues or miniatures have ever cracked and I’ve made at least 1 statue a week for over 3 years. In my first year I made at least 2 a week. 99% of the time cracked prints is linked with water washable resin too I only use standard resins because of exactly that issue
One slight error when talking about the raft thickness and wanting the burn in/ bottom layers exposure to overcure the raft plus the first couple layers of supports: if you’re doing a 0.03mm layer height you’d need 10 bottom layers (adds to 0.3mm) plus another 2 layers for supports = 12 bottom layers not 4 as pictured in screenshot. If printing .05mm (50 micron) you’d want again the 0.3mm raft and two support layers overcured… so that’s 0.05 layer height x 6= 0.3 plus two more layers = 8 bottom layers. Then yes, be sure to keep 6-8 transition layers. Your Dad’s 30 micron settings are just getting 0.12mm of raft overcured and getting two layers of support bases barely in the “transition layers” but clearly it works for this resin and printing ambient temp. (If you’re printing in cold room then add more bottom layers as I explained for 0.3mm raft. Cheers all
The newest update to lychee allows you to save 6 support presets (at least in pro version) its awesome. Ive learned too that using siraya tech fast navy Grey mixed with obsidian black tenacious(my go to mix) requires beefier supports or it rips off. But it doesnt seem to mar or damage as much from heavys. Though my heavys are basically what ur medium is, then i have an "anchor" setting that is .5tip and a 2.0 stem diameter to hold things down. I tend to keep most stems 1.5 even on lights and just shrink tip size
Hi, I have been testing elegoo like ABS 2.0 for the past 2 weeks getting the settings down amd printing perfectly as it's alot different to their original like ABS the exposure time needs to be almost doubled for it to even print but I have got great settings to start with for my anycubics and Saturn 2 if anyone is experiencing issues getting annoyed I'm happy to give you these setting and you can go from there with adjusting and tweeking but yeah the same setting I've got working on all 3 of my different printers all print great!
I'm currently experimenting with auto supports for the inside then I'll delete those that have generated externally and add my own. See how it turns out.
I have used Lychee pro for about 6+ months with an Anycubic. I just purchased a Elegoo Saturn S & noticed that when I sliced the print it had that ctb. At the end… I couldn’t see where or how to change that?? So I was worried if it would even work… it did print. Is there a setting I can change for that or I’m I just clueless…🤓 Killer Video BTW- ZenModeling
Awesome video man what are your settings for 0.03 layer height on your Anycubic M3 Max i use Sunlu Standard resin? like exposure settings and speed trying to achieve the highest quality and speed.
So I bought a printer and thought yeah! Then I looked at supporting and thought neh... Then I supported weakly and got failed print after print and was ready to throw the printer away. Then I saw this supporting video and yeah succesfull prints thanks sir... you made supporting easy!!
Hello, I love your videos, they solve many problems for me, but how do you manage to print with lift distance at 3 mm? In my printer, if the pieces are very large in the center of the plate, the print does not come out and I set the lift distance to 5, I have a Photon Mono X and I use anycubyc basic resin. Thank you for your videos
thanks for another greaqt video. any tips on printing larger prints on larger build plates like the M3 Max? I know bigger buildplates cause bigger suction force.
This has been a learning curve for me over the last week. Almost all of these tend to be either aimed at small plates or supporting miniatures instead of bigger prints. Any resources work for you so far?
@@ZarekDaniel20 even though it is mainly focused on mini stuff tableflip foundry (youtube, twitch and discord) and the guide by J3D tech has been helping me out a lot. It has been a learning curve going from a saturn 2 to a peopoly forge but using the resources from tableflip has been allowing more successes than failures.
Loved the video as always, very few 3D printer channels actually go through the support usage and even addres slicer operations, i am glad you did. Its aplreciated.
@@Groundeffected thanks dude! You are the best! I love your videos, I never painted any figure before see your videos and you show me how to start in this lovely hobby.
Dad, what are your tip settings? As far as penetration into the model etc? I’ve been using your settings but find that they leave some nasty little holes. Any help is appreciated!
Those jokes are possibly you might be a little over exposed. I tend to go on the lowest side of exposure to get as much detail as I can and the supports would technically be changing with the exposure too the more exposed the thicker and less the thinner of that makes sense. This is one of the reasons it’s tough to share settings cos there’s so many variables.
New sub, amd totally agree with lychee pro it's a must I think! I have been I to 3D printing only 3 months now I got lychee pro as month trial at the start amd when it was back to basic oh waw it's rubbish!.I was lost lol I'm now on my 3rd printer the mono 4k I started with is great but to small so got the mono 2 2 weeks later agood bit bigger brilliant printer it's just incredible but wanted bigger lol just took delivery of saturn 2 the other day waw can fit my anycubics inside the cover 😂 but there all special in their own way I love them all!
@@Groundeffected it probably will 😃. Im in the middle of working on an ikea hack, transforming a glass cabinet into a terrarium. I had to put 3D printing/painting on hold because of it😢.. i have an anycubic Max in the box still after 3months🙈 haha. Terrible.. but hope to finish soon so i can start and start real life learning.. but ill prolly keep you posted on that 🤘🏻☺️ Im realy eating your vids like sweet cake every time and cant wait to start.. but have to finish that dang ikea hack first 😩 Its for a sponsor and there will be a build vid.. so you can imagine that takes time, editing stuff etc.. Oh… -> i forgot to say thank you.. thanks ☺️ Absolutely love your channel bruh 🥰
Hey, I'm a new unexperimented guy in this complicated world, and I loved your video. Your explaination was very perfect for me. Thank you !!! And go on making me dream with your paints. I love it !
Why no AA on the export? I find a 4x+ AA set to sharpen details really makes things crisp Also thanks for the simple hollowing tutorial that was super helpful :))
I have voodoo support settings for Chitubox. Minimal surface damage and will hold any size print. I almost never use more than 20% support density. Sound too good to be true? That’s why I call it voodoo support settings. 😉
Hahaha you know what bro if it works don’t change it! I just want dudes to be able to help themselves and this is what worked for me hopefully helps someone who is struggling.
@@Groundeffected I check every update. It's the Voxelab Proxima 8.9 Pro (also FlashForge 8.9.) It converts to .fdg files. They aren't communicating with Lychee either, so no hope in sight. Love the printer, but this part sucks...
Weird. I think I dropped mine to 95. But maybe I didn’t either way at 3.5 seconds I’d just have blobs. But also every machine is different and maybe my light is more powerful than yours the distance between them could be different the screen’s different so many things.
Chitu kept crashing my machine at first. And now just the simplicity over chitu. Settings make sense and are in English and not some kind of translated English. The work flow is just easier in my opinion. And I had much easier time with supporting and learning supports through lychee over chitu.
lychee looks like it has some really great features. There's two drawbacks, though... 1. you have to create an account with them just to be able to use it. I could provide fake ID, of course, but then there's number 2 - there is no ability to use the slicer without being online afaik. That means that if you have no internet, you ain't slicing. It also brings into question WHY the software needs to phone home, especially if you're using a free version. I like my data and my programs to live with me... call me silly, I know :)
Awesome video man what are your settings for 0.03 layer height on your Anycubic M3 Max i use Sunlu Standard resin? like exposure settings and speed trying to achieve the highest quality and speed.
Lychee Slicer's technical support guy here. Loved the video. You have done an exquisite job at explaining this complex subject. 😊
Will lychee slicer work on a 2018 Dell Inspiron 15 3000?
@@gettingpoliticalshould but will be a bit slow.
@@zraal3759
Yea I just downloaded it, it works great not slow or anything. Thanks for the comment, for anyone else using an older comp like myself, lychee seems to work fine I downloaded the 64bit windows version.
I've been printing for a few months and this is definitely one of the better videos on process. Straightforward and not any more complicated than it needs to be
Smoothing the inside of a hollow model use the Quality slider underneath the hollow 3D thickness movel it up to 2.0 it will smooth the inside of your hollow prints mate! Use the interior/exterior setting over on left to view the inside to place your own inner supports! Hope this helps you out! It would be Nice to help out in return!
Hey thanks for the info. But If I printed with clear resin and the supports inside, The supports inside the models also visible right? how can I remove the supports inside? If u got any technique can u pls share?
My man... your support settings have been my base line since I've watched this video! I really appreciate your humor, and down to earth style...cheers mate! Once I get square...imma join patreon...thanks for helping is newbs out..
Either this space in 3d modeling about supporting your own models is super tiny (Not a lot of people) or this video hasn't received it's deserved amount of views and likes yet :) Super awesome dude. Thank you so much for this.
Great guide, I would also recommend to run it trough UVtools to catch on those lose 1 pixel small islands and resin traps to avoid issues on the next prints.
I just want to add. Anti aliasing will also change supports that contact the model at an angle. So if you are seeing failures after turning on AA but it was fine before you might need to change your exposure
You can right click on the hollownicon in left menu it'll bring up a setting menu that will make the outside see through so you can see the inside of the hollow model amd how thick your walls are ect it's either the hollow icon or one of the top I'll need to jump on mine I was using it yesterday I found all these different hidden like settings!
Lychee is a Lifesaver!! Elegoo std resin also works very very well.
Yea elegoo standard isn’t bad either. Usually cheaper too.
Manual supporting are something I have always backed away from but this has been a great help.
Thank you so much, I find I do struggle sometimes with the settings I use. Some work, some don’t.
Try mine and see how you get on. Just use the mediums and heavies for now and see how it works.
About hollowing with the internal Part beeing smooth: you can use Prusa Slicer just for hollow and put holes in the model
Better internal part of the model and less islands in places near the holes
Phrozen Water Washable resin is comparable to your solution but in one bottle. It's strong but also has some give and flexibility, which overcomes the brittle problem inherent in a lot of resins.
I will give it a try.
Mixing Tenacious always works for me as well. I only use it with standard resin and not ABS-like. Great content. I love using Lychee Pro as well. Well worth the money.
So many supports on the inside makes it really hard to clean. Uncleaned, uncured resin on the inside can lead to cracking. I've seen posts on reddit of people's miniatures basically exploding after over a year because leftover resin slowly pressurized.
I only ever put internal supports on internal islands. I also leave holes big enough to snake an ultraviolet LED to cure the insides of hollowed models.
I can say with confidence not a single one of my statues or miniatures have ever cracked and I’ve made at least 1 statue a week for over 3 years. In my first year I made at least 2 a week. 99% of the time cracked prints is linked with water washable resin too I only use standard resins because of exactly that issue
Any recomendation on head sculpts with detailed hair? It creates an enormous amount of islands with no way to support safely
This video helped me a lot to get startet. Thank you!
I'm so glad!
Excellent video as always. Thanks for taking the time to explain this.
One slight error when talking about the raft thickness and wanting the burn in/ bottom layers exposure to overcure the raft plus the first couple layers of supports: if you’re doing a 0.03mm layer height you’d need 10 bottom layers (adds to 0.3mm) plus another 2 layers for supports = 12 bottom layers not 4 as pictured in screenshot.
If printing .05mm (50 micron) you’d want again the 0.3mm raft and two support layers overcured… so that’s 0.05 layer height x 6= 0.3 plus two more layers = 8 bottom layers. Then yes, be sure to keep 6-8 transition layers.
Your Dad’s 30 micron settings are just getting 0.12mm of raft overcured and getting two layers of support bases barely in the “transition layers” but clearly it works for this resin and printing ambient temp. (If you’re printing in cold room then add more bottom layers as I explained for 0.3mm raft. Cheers all
The newest update to lychee allows you to save 6 support presets (at least in pro version) its awesome. Ive learned too that using siraya tech fast navy Grey mixed with obsidian black tenacious(my go to mix) requires beefier supports or it rips off. But it doesnt seem to mar or damage as much from heavys.
Though my heavys are basically what ur medium is, then i have an "anchor" setting that is .5tip and a 2.0 stem diameter to hold things down. I tend to keep most stems 1.5 even on lights and just shrink tip size
Hi, I have been testing elegoo like ABS 2.0 for the past 2 weeks getting the settings down amd printing perfectly as it's alot different to their original like ABS the exposure time needs to be almost doubled for it to even print but I have got great settings to start with for my anycubics and Saturn 2 if anyone is experiencing issues getting annoyed I'm happy to give you these setting and you can go from there with adjusting and tweeking but yeah the same setting I've got working on all 3 of my different printers all print great!
Excellent Video - still debating to switch to Lychee but this may push me to it
This is supportive support for supports 😍 thank you for all your tipps ❤
Awesome video Brent, thank you
Yeah this ones a keeper, cheers bro.
I'm currently experimenting with auto supports for the inside then I'll delete those that have generated externally and add my own. See how it turns out.
I have used Lychee pro for about 6+ months with an Anycubic. I just purchased a Elegoo Saturn S & noticed that when I sliced the print it had that ctb. At the end… I couldn’t see where or how to change that?? So I was worried if it would even work… it did print. Is there a setting I can change for that or I’m I just clueless…🤓 Killer Video BTW-
ZenModeling
This a dope video thanks, I was wondering what were your mini support settings for light medium and heavy?
Great tutorial! Thanks!
i thought upping the quality smoothed the insides of the hollowed model!
Yea but never perfectly at least from my last tries I’ll try again though and see
Awesome video man what are your settings for 0.03 layer height on your Anycubic M3 Max i use Sunlu Standard resin? like exposure settings and speed trying to achieve the highest quality and speed.
Hi mate love your model but can you do some fdm printing as not all have resin printers mate thanks and merry Christmas
new shop is looking great
So I bought a printer and thought yeah!
Then I looked at supporting and thought neh...
Then I supported weakly and got failed print after print and was ready to throw the printer away.
Then I saw this supporting video and yeah succesfull prints
thanks sir... you made supporting easy!!
I bought a shake weight to strengthen my arm for shaking resin.
Best idea really.
nice, I do the same thing with the resin blend!
I have changed my supports to use the groundeffected config. and now I do not have problems anymore and I just use light and heavy supports
Nice be careful with those lights they can be deceiving they not very strong only good for small nuts that need a gentle touch. Haha
@@Groundeffected I know, but I use expose time of 3 secods that way I can have a stronger light support for my nuts hehe
Hell yeah .... learned a lot. Thank you. Will be trying out lychee
Hello, I love your videos, they solve many problems for me, but how do you manage to print with lift distance at 3 mm?
In my printer, if the pieces are very large in the center of the plate, the print does not come out and I set the lift distance to 5, I have a Photon Mono X and I use anycubyc basic resin.
Thank you for your videos
I don’t have any real issues to be honest. I do use a fairly tight fep though. But on my larger printers I lift up to 6mm
Can u show us your fdm settings in lychee too?
What is a measure of support penetration so that it works well, does not come off of them and does not leave marks?
Lychee pro is the best. Now supports filament settings if you use both forms of printing
It is really good. Their discord is solid for app help too
thanks for another greaqt video. any tips on printing larger prints on larger build plates like the M3 Max? I know bigger buildplates cause bigger suction force.
This has been a learning curve for me over the last week. Almost all of these tend to be either aimed at small plates or supporting miniatures instead of bigger prints.
Any resources work for you so far?
@@ZarekDaniel20 even though it is mainly focused on mini stuff tableflip foundry (youtube, twitch and discord) and the guide by J3D tech has been helping me out a lot. It has been a learning curve going from a saturn 2 to a peopoly forge but using the resources from tableflip has been allowing more successes than failures.
Do you not use infill??
Nah just support the inside.
does that resin mix work better than anycubic abs like pro2?
what did you do to your ah-ball?
Shot plastic into to see how strong it is.
Loved the video as always, very few 3D printer channels actually go through the support usage and even addres slicer operations, i am glad you did. Its aplreciated.
Awesome video man! Just a quick question, any idea which is the best layer thickness settings for the Anycubic photon mono x 6k (0.05 or 0.03)?
The specs say it’s resolution is 34 microns. So I’d say o.o3mm dude.
@@Groundeffected thanks dude! You are the best! I love your videos, I never painted any figure before see your videos and you show me how to start in this lovely hobby.
I use 0.03 on mine. Works very well!
Dad, what are your tip settings? As far as penetration into the model etc? I’ve been using your settings but find that they leave some nasty little holes. Any help is appreciated!
Those jokes are possibly you might be a little over exposed. I tend to go on the lowest side of exposure to get as much detail as I can and the supports would technically be changing with the exposure too the more exposed the thicker and less the thinner of that makes sense. This is one of the reasons it’s tough to share settings cos there’s so many variables.
Thank you. Ive failed every print until I watched this.
New sub, amd totally agree with lychee pro it's a must I think! I have been I to 3D printing only 3 months now I got lychee pro as month trial at the start amd when it was back to basic oh waw it's rubbish!.I was lost lol I'm now on my 3rd printer the mono 4k I started with is great but to small so got the mono 2 2 weeks later agood bit bigger brilliant printer it's just incredible but wanted bigger lol just took delivery of saturn 2 the other day waw can fit my anycubics inside the cover 😂 but there all special in their own way I love them all!
If you higher the quality-setting of your hollowing you get a smoother result.
It’s still never as crisp as it could be. I had to get someone to hollow so,etching for me before cos it looks like butt when it’s printed.
Also why don’t you use auto supports and then go in and add supports where they are needed?
Is anti-aliasing a good thing to use? Ive been using smooth, but idk if it even does much at this point.
Good info. Thanks!
Thanks for watching dude.
Btw,, i was looking into the Siraya Tech Tenacious resin.. does this mix with waterwashable resin aswell? i cant seem to find any info on the site.. 😢
Great video again! Very helpfull stuff! 🥰
Thanks dude. Hope it helps
@@Groundeffected it probably will 😃. Im in the middle of working on an ikea hack, transforming a glass cabinet into a terrarium. I had to put 3D printing/painting on hold because of it😢.. i have an anycubic Max in the box still after 3months🙈 haha. Terrible.. but hope to finish soon so i can start and start real life learning.. but ill prolly keep you posted on that 🤘🏻☺️
Im realy eating your vids like sweet cake every time and cant wait to start.. but have to finish that dang ikea hack first 😩 Its for a sponsor and there will be a build vid.. so you can imagine that takes time, editing stuff etc..
Oh… -> i forgot to say thank you.. thanks ☺️
Absolutely love your channel bruh 🥰
What do you do when you can’t get a 10mm magnet/ 10mm hole in the model or even 5mm holes? Is it still possible to do magnets?
Hey, I'm a new unexperimented guy in this complicated world, and I loved your video. Your explaination was very perfect for me.
Thank you !!! And go on making me dream with your paints. I love it !
I’m glad dude!!
Do u not fill in the holes so u can't even see them? Also I use a 5% to 10% infill instead for the inside maybe better then just using supports
Nah. I think that is also why my models don’t crack. Because they still have airflow so if any gasing is happening it’s got a way to leak.
@@Groundeffected oh that makes sense lol this is why I like ur channel cause u talk to ur people and give us ideas we didn't think of
Why no AA on the export? I find a 4x+ AA set to sharpen details really makes things crisp
Also thanks for the simple hollowing tutorial that was super helpful :))
This is so old now dude. I use 8 for level and 20% grey offset with high def on if I can
I have voodoo support settings for Chitubox. Minimal surface damage and will hold any size print. I almost never use more than 20% support density. Sound too good to be true? That’s why I call it voodoo support settings. 😉
Hahaha you know what bro if it works don’t change it! I just want dudes to be able to help themselves and this is what worked for me hopefully helps someone who is struggling.
@@GroundeffectedNa, yours are awesome.
Amazing. Dude! Amazing.
I really wish Lychee worked with my printer. And everytime I export as Stl and use Chitubox, it fails 😢
What printer is that? Have you checked recently for your printer in the setup?
@@Groundeffected I check every update. It's the Voxelab Proxima 8.9 Pro (also FlashForge 8.9.) It converts to .fdg files. They aren't communicating with Lychee either, so no hope in sight. Love the printer, but this part sucks...
How do you use the "paint" on support feature? Is it only available for the pro version? I don't see a shortcut for it.
its only in the pro version but you can do a 30 trial of pro for free
Way to shake it, Your Dad! I use Chitubox non pro, it seems simpler to me.
Im using an Anycubic Mono X 6K. Everything under 3.5 seconds exposure time won't work. How you can use 1.5 seconds? What UV power do you have?
Weird. I think I dropped mine to 95. But maybe I didn’t either way at 3.5 seconds I’d just have blobs. But also every machine is different and maybe my light is more powerful than yours the distance between them could be different the screen’s different so many things.
@@Groundeffected thank you. My UV power is set to 65. i will try 95
i have a mono x 4k and the manual says to set the uv to 80. check your manual but it should be around that
wow thanks so much!!
Why lychee over chitubox?
Chitu kept crashing my machine at first. And now just the simplicity over chitu. Settings make sense and are in English and not some kind of translated English. The work flow is just easier in my opinion. And I had much easier time with supporting and learning supports through lychee over chitu.
11:43 best moment
You’re fuckin hilarious man! Thanks for the content
I feel better now that I am supported better 😂
I'm literally printing a freebie from loot as I watch this....I have questions lol
Haha 😂
Hi Uncle Alg.
👍👍👍
Comment 3
Algorithm!
lychee looks like it has some really great features. There's two drawbacks, though... 1. you have to create an account with them just to be able to use it. I could provide fake ID, of course, but then there's number 2 - there is no ability to use the slicer without being online afaik. That means that if you have no internet, you ain't slicing. It also brings into question WHY the software needs to phone home, especially if you're using a free version. I like my data and my programs to live with me... call me silly, I know :)
I was gonna get lychee, but then your dad told me it will change all of my holes... Now I am afraid.
you max out the quality to get the inside of a hollowed print to look nice
Lychee is so worth the few dollars it costs for the Pro version. GET IT & DON'T REGRET IT!
I use Chitubox because it's the first one I came across. I may take a look at Lychee after this. It's got some good features. Cool..
Awesome video man what are your settings for 0.03 layer height on your Anycubic M3 Max i use Sunlu Standard resin? like exposure settings and speed trying to achieve the highest quality and speed.