This was simple, to the point, and not full of useless info or tool promotions. Thanks!! Just what I needed for my DIY bathroom remodel. Much appreciated.
Just about the best tape and mud video I've seen, especially the part about the Schluter mixing valve cover. This is the second bathroom I've done in our new house (The third was a fiberglass surround, so no mudding or valve cover needed), and no one ever told me about this before.
When it tape the joint from tile backer to drywall I always used a small taping knife. Usually just a 4". That way I don't spread thinset all over the drywall. I also always run my tile completely over whatever thinset Is on the drywall. With a little planning you can almost do it that way everytine. It makes the tapers job a hell of a lot easier !
Great video I want to say one thing I noticed just to make it clear for anyone else, if you fill the gap first, you're feeling the gap... which means in a sense in that way, the gap doesn't have as much room for expansion in the areas where the mud is. If you've ever been in a house where when the season is changing and you hear random mysterious little creeks and cracks it's always been my curiosity if it's scenarios like this. But either way whether you can hear them or not I was always taught to tape first so the gap remains for expansion on the whole line.
thanks for the tips! i’m transitioning to an outside corner. goboard on one side drywall on the other. should i use a metal corner bead set in thinset? i’ll have tile on one corner, finished w metal edge profile & drywall on the other corner.
Yikes... sanding Thinset? When this type approach is unavoidable the pros use a damp sponge to smooth out any thinset where the thinset transitions onto drywall. I wouldn't bother with the mesh tape either. When using GoBoard simply fill the gap with GoBoard sealant. Personally, I always plan it so when installing my tile and using thinset, the tile "spans the gap" going from the GoBoard to the drywall overlapping the gap. No sanding or feathering needed.
Can you extend the goboard past where you want to tile? Thinking the waterproof backer would be better than the mold resitant drywall? Just worried about how it would texture.
You can. It's not really necessary unless you are concerned that you are going to get a lot of water out of the shower. You will probably need to skim coat it with drywall mud of something. Otherwise, you won't have a smooth surface, like you would with drywall.
Same problem I have. I have old house, it was all button lath and floated. The previous shower was chicken wire and wire mesh and very thick. So with modern cement board, it will be a lot thinner than my wall. So I’m not sure how to transition from thinner shower wall to thicker bathroom wall?
@@liammiller8259 can you add filler pieces to the studs to give it more thickness? Another option is a piece of trim similar to transition between floors
You fur the walls with the Wonderboard with thin strips of plywood to bring them level with the old drywall. Or, as an alternative, you can use mud on the 2x4's before setting the Wonderboard ( a little trickier I think).
I have a question for you please. I have 1/2” drywall and bought 1/4” hardie because that’s what I saw first, do I need to install 1/2” hardie since I have 1/2” drywall?
So no, there is no requirement to have 1/2 inch hardie board, at least not that I am aware of. That being said you will probably need to build out the wall 1/4 inch underneath the hardie board if you are wanting them to be flush. Now if the plan is to just run your tile to the end of the hardie board you could probably get away with not worrying about them being flush cause. If it were me I would probably go with 1/2inch as long as you haven't already installed the 1/4inch. I assume you are laying tile, is this in a shower or bathtub? If it is, I suggest going with something similar to goBoard or schluter as they don't require waterproofing. Where a cement board needs a waterproofing system over the top.
If you haven't installed the wall board yet I would shim behind this wall that need to be built out. You can buy 6 to 8ft shims. If you have already installed the wall board you can try to build up the tile using mortar behind it. Though if it only 3-6mm might be able to just in a thicker tile edging and cover the difference. I apologize for the delayed response.
This little ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
Is this a tub or shower? Is the outside joint past the outside of the curb or tub edge? Cuz if it is, you don't need to use mud or thinset. You can use silicone caulking if you want. If that joint is outside of the curb or tub edge, it shouldn't get wet. The shower door is the barrier.
It's a tile shower with glass doors. No, the tile runs to the drywall. So I needed the thinset for the tile and the edging. There is no shower surround to attach to the wall.
Great video very helpful for my project. I have question I cannot find the answer to. My new vanity (73 1/2" +- 1/8" according to specs) will be captured between 2 walls, ie backsplash on 3 sides. One wall is fixed the I need to determine where to place it. So how do I determine allowance for tile and the thinset? Really I guess it comes down to thin set thickness because backer board and wall tile thickness I can measure. Maybe I am over thinking this DOES THE FINISHED THINSET THICKNESS change drastically from the notch thickness of the trowel you use?
Not really. It really just depends on how thick you put on the the thinset. Are you using in Large format tile or something small like subway tile? Assuming the walls are flat you might add 1/16 to 1/8 on each side just to accommodate the thickness of the thinset. I am not a professional tile installer by any means so you might try asking Home Repair Tutor, TileCoach, or Sal Diblasi or someone like that. They all do a lot of tile videos.
Thanks for sharing. Is this light weight backer board strong enough to a a piece marble? I am so worried as I have bought these board, and still not installed because of the reason above.
With goboard or even with Kerdi board the mixing valve seal is unnecessary. It's designed for use with water resistant drywall and the Kerdi membrane. I usually run my water proofing at least 2-3 inches outside of the tub or shower and my tile about an inch past that. This step is also unneeded if you're going to do it though you should use the black tape that's made for thinset usually in the tile department not the white or tan in the drywall area.
Would you know about goboard I’m for floor installation? If I install the 1/2” go board on top of a 3/4 plywood floor, do I need to mortar it down or can I just screw it down? Also, I will only have one seem, so I leave an 1/8th inch gap there and all around perimeter correct? Then do I use the goboard sealant all around perimeter where I left the 1/8th inch gap or just the one seem? Then tile after?
I have never installed go board on the floor. When I did my floor in the bathroom I used cement board. Sal Diblasi does a lot of tiling video's and might be a good resource.
Should the cement board be mesh taped to the ceiling sheetrock. I’ve got my cement board going all the way to the ceiling and I’m not sure if I should tape them together.
I would probably use paper tape. Then just cover with mortar for your tile If you are running your tile all the way to the ceiling it is always best to use a water tight sealant at the top as well. Are you doing a steam shower or just normal shower?
I have a half inch gap between mine because the shower is 36.5" wide and the GoBoard is only 36" wide. At the time I thought, "Oh I'll just add a sliver and cover over it." Now I'm panicking that I don't actually know what to do with it. Google says Thin set isn't for large gaps, so should I use (real) mortar for that?
The great thing about GoBoad is it can be cut to any size and shape and attached securely using GoBoard sealant. I had a similar issue (my gap was 3/4") and was instructed by the Johns Mansville support desk to simply cut a strip of Goboard wide enough to fill the gap and affix it in place using GoBoard sealant making sure all raw exposed edges of the GoBoard have sealant applied.
I would still use the thinset and then just taper it off on the drywall side so that you don't notice the transition. To make it look a bit better I will then put a skim coat of drywall mud over the top of the tapered thinset once I am done tiling. This way I can sand it down to make it smooth as thinset is course. Then paint. Are you going to run your tile past the seam?
I just used mortar to put it on the wall. The idea is that if water gets behind the tile it will be directed around the valve. Not supposed to be water tight against the valve if that is what you are thinking.
@@HomeRepairHub I think he means the mortar is not waterproof so water can seep between the schluter and goboard. You're supposed to use waterproof sealant there.
what about if you have a step in the transition? my shower backer board is about a 1/2 inch higher than my drywall due to framing in the tub and shower walls...
Have you put the tile on yet? I would probably just find something to trim it out with, metal j trim or some kind of shower molding that matches what you are going to trim out the tile with. Maybe a piece of drywall corner bead for the backer board then just find a water tight sealant for between the trim and the drywall.
I have never installed tile before so I am curious; since you are tiling past the seam and onto the drywall, why wouldn't you just use the Goboard sealant like I am assuming you did for the seams of the Goboard panels?
GoBoard has a list of approved sealants and the one I used was from that list. I didn't use GoBoard sealant on the panels. GoBoard's sealant is more expensive and it has to be ordered. Where as some of the other sealants can be picked up at the local hardware store. Being able to run to the hardware store and pick up a tube if I run out is nice. Otherwise you have to wait for the goBoard stuff to come in. If you choose one off the list of approved sealant make sure you look at the setup time's. The goBoard sealant does come with a 10yr limited warranty. Here is the list. www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/GoBoard-Approved-Alternative-Sealant-List.pdf
@@HomeRepairHub Okay, but why did you choose thin-set to make the joint between the GoBoard and drywall instead of using the sealant you used for the GoBoard to GoBoard joints? Is the sealant that much more expensive than thin-set? It seems like extra work to switch over to thin-set when you were already using the sealant?
@@bobl5737 so to install the tile you will use thinset on the walls. The sealant is just used to cover the screws and cover the gap between two sheets of goBoard. If the gap is larger than 1/8 inch you should use thinset not the sealant.
You could, though it would probably be kind of messy. I think the challenge would be that you couldn't smooth it out completely, so the area right night to your til wouldn't look very good.
I want to extend my tile out of the shower to cover one whole wall of my bathroom. Once I hit the drywall out of the shower, can I add cement backer board on top of the drywall before tiling or do I need to remove the drywall first? It will get humid but no direct water. The tile is fairly heavy at 4 pounds per square foot.
Yes, you can put backer board over the drywall, though I am not sure why you would do that unless you need to build the wall out to match up with the shower. You may also want to look into a foam backer board like schluter. I am not sure what the weight limitations are with the different systems so you may want to lookin into that.
@@HomeRepairHub Thanks I thought it would be less messy to leave it but realized yesterday that I should just take down the wall's drywall when I gut the shower since it would be safer and I need to replace the whole ceiling's drywall now anyway because of mold. That is a good point about the wall being level with the shower. If I take down the drywall and use cement backer board in the shower and the connecting wall, it will be a smooth transition and won't stick out at all. What is foam board used for vs regular cement backer board? I was thinking of using cement board and adding redguard on top before tiling. I appreciate your help; I am new to all of this!
In the video I am using GoBoard which is a water proof tile backer board. There are lots of different systems on the market, schluter, laticrete hydro ban, USG, etc. The foam board is a tile backboard that is waterproof. Lots of video's on youtube. Here is one that goes over some of the differences and explains what it is. Sal has lots of video's on the different systems. Its much easier to work with then cement board. I still like cement board for flooring. ua-cam.com/video/uxROu4N0WMQ/v-deo.html
Yes. My suggestion is to sand the thinset as best as you can, then do a skim coat of drywall mud over the top of the thinset to smooth it out. Then paint.
No. I tiled up to the edge of the backerboard, then just sanded and painted the walls. It I just used drywall mud to transition, then the tile wouldn't adhere properly to the backer board. So I just used morter for the transition, similar to how you would use drywall mud for drywall joints.
I have to plaster over my drywall with multi-finish finishing plaster so I think I'll just fit a a stop bead where the tiles finish and cover my backer board, then butt my tiles up to the stop bead should be nice and neat job.@@HomeRepairHub
Great video, thanks. One question: I was going to install a Kerdi niche in the backer board wall. Should I use the Kerdi tape to seal around it or could I just use the alkali resistant tape?
I would recommend using the Kerdi tape. It is water resistant I believe. And I am not 100%, but I believe it would void any warranty to use anything else. I know that's how it is for the shower systems.
Sorry to be so offtopic but does anybody know a tool to log back into an instagram account?? I was stupid lost the account password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Angel Lee Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@@HomeRepairHubhow did you seal the gaps between boards? The install instructions say the preferred method is to mount the boards with the gaps then fill. Option 2, adding sealant first then mounting seems like you’d get more coverage? Also did you reinforce the seams or anything like that? I know they have the option to use the goboard fabric seam tape but haven’t seen anyone actually use it. Also, is there any issues with thinset/tile adhering to the sealant that is spread from the gaps? I’ll be using OSI quad max from their list since I can’t find the goboard stuff.
In your scenario, I would place a 2x4 stud flat behind the transition so that the drywall and cement board each have 1 3/4 of the stud to screw to. This supports and stabilizes the transition.
Just go to your local hardware store and read through the different thunder types. Usually the bag will tell you what size of tile it works with. Just look for LFT, large tile, or large format tile on the bag. Shouldn't be hard to determine which stuff is for Large Format tile.
I am not aware of one, though it's possible there is one. In most cases though you would still cut a circle for the mixing valve and then just cover it with the square valve trim.
You can. What type of backer board are you using? If you are using foam backer board there is usually a sealant that will be used on the corners and screw heads. But each foam board varies a bit. Kerdi is a bit different and uses thinset. If you are using cement backer board you can use thinset to cover the screw heads before or you can wait till you tile and cover the screw heads when you tile. If you are using cement board are you use a water proofing system? Really just depends on what type of backer board you are using.
@@HomeRepairHub I typed this message right after you said it the first time and your reiterated it in the video a few times after, but thank you for the reply, I think I’m just going to use a tile edge trim and mud the seam
Based on his comments and instructions so far, that doesn't sound like a very great plan. How would mudding the seam help keep water out? Thinset is far more waterproof than drywall mud, right?
Quickset should work similar so I would guess it would be fine. I really haven't used it before though so I don't really know what the differences would be.
I used mortar. I said to spread it like you would drywall mud. I said you could use drywall mud once you tile was set to cover the rough spots on the drywall side. I don't actually use any drywall mud in the video.
When you are using cement backer board all the way to end of the corner and meeting with drywall, can the [in my case, shiny black] aluminum tile accent / finish sufficiently replace the drywall corner bead or would you need both? (My tile and accent piece go all the way to corner.) Thanks from a first time tile diy-er!
@@HomeRepairHub what type of bead did you use to make the backerboard/drywall corner? How did you set it on the backerboard side compared to the drywall?
I just used 1/2 inch corner bead from any local hardware store. I used mud on the drywall side and the sealant I used on the backer board on the shower side. Then once it dried I just used thinset over the top to install the tile edge trim. I would just use the same thinset you used on the backer board and then if you covered it with a water tight solution go over it with that too.
The following sealants are all alternates that will work with goBoard. I recommend the following: amzn.to/3aUyU8L I would avoid the LOCTITE PL S10 Polyurethane Concrete Crack & Masonry Sealant, this is what I used first and it has a very strong odor and takes 7 days or so to cure. Whatever you choose check dry and cure times. I found myself having to wait almost 2 weeks before I could actually start tiling. Some of these products are at your local hardware store as well. I wasn't able to find the goBoard sealant at my Menards but I think some actually carry it and that will work too. I would have had to order it and its more expensive then some of the other options. DAP 3.0 (model 18360) DAP DynaFlex 800 (model 80800) Liquid Nails Fuze-It (model LN-2000) LOCTITE PL S10 Polyurethane Concrete Crack & Masonry Sealant (model 1618522, 1618521 or 1086693) LOCTITE PL S40 Polyurethane Window, Door and Siding Sealant (model 1618516 or 1618182) OSI QuadMax Window, Door & Siding Sealant (model 1868684 or 1893977) SikaBond Construction Adhesive (model 106403) QUIKRETE Polyurethane Non-Sag Sealant (model 866011 or 862017) Rapid Set Sealant (model 196330010)
@Jeff Dana So yes you can apply thinset, but thinset isn't waterproof. So if you are doing a cement backerboard with just thinset and mesh tape its best to go over it with a waterproofing paint, like redgaurd or something. If you use a foam backerboard there is usually a sealant that goes with it that is waterproof. Schluter, Laticrete, goBoard, there are several out there. I don't do a lot of tiling, but if you want more info on the different options available there are tons of videos on how to waterproof a shower on UA-cam.
@@HomeRepairHubwhy don’t you answer the question of what Brand or what exactly thinset did you use. For Pete’s sake man, you went through the trouble of teaching how to do it but won’t tell exactly what product you used. So you don’t get paid, you are helping, Right. I’m 67, female. Paid pros to do a job and it is all crap. I’m familiar with drywall compounds but not thinset. What you are using looks smooth and easier to work with ( smooth flat). 😢. If you are going to help. Don’t stop at where you want. Go all in and help. Very frustrating to see this. Maybe you showed it or said what you used in the previous video where you installed your go boards. I’ll watch that and see if I find the answer. Been up since 2am and it is now 4:56 and will have to take care of sick mom, but hey, that’s what one has to do to get help in what they need. I’ll just spend another hour trying to get my answers which you could have spared me. Good video though. Thanks. Debbie in Texas
I would still use the thinset. Is the backer board or drywall thicker? It's a modified thinset. I am using the same thinset I am using for my tile. I am not sure what type of tile you are installing, but whatever you use for the tile would be fine
@@HomeRepairHub the drywall is thicker. Going with 3x5 white subway tiles. The modified thinset, are you just adding water to it to thin it down some to make more plyable?
@@wynbarkema3922 you can definitely add a bit more water if it needs to be more pliable it may just take a bit longer to dry. Are you going to run your tile past the edge of the backer board? Or are you stopping before the edge of the backer board? If you run the tile out past the edge of the backer board you will want to taper the thinset off on the backer board side so that it seems flat. You may have to taper the thinset 12 inches or so on the backer board side so it flat enough to run tile over the transition, otherwise your tile will not be level. Similar to how you would taper off one side if you drywall was to different levels.
You should not tile over spackle in a wet shower area. The moisture will eventually leach thru the grout lines and dissolve the spackle. If the spackle in in the shower area an inch or son, no big deal but the spackle area this guy put into the shower was way too much.
I am only using goboard where I am tiling. My tile stops at the point where the purple drywall and go board meet. I need to be able to paint the wall so I am not going to use goboard on the wall.
Whats the purpose of taping any of that? Why fill the screws? Doesnt that already take the integrity away from the tile backer as now its been used and nothing installed. All gonna be covered in thinset anyways. Edge the tile over the seams. These companies are to smart for so many.
If you knew what you were doing and what the manufacture instructions for mesh is you would delete half of your problems bud. You should never bed mesh tape!
I friggn hate how everybody inserts all the music in their videos.. it doesn't make the video any more professional or better/ enjoyable.. its youtube.. if anything it takes away from the whole video because nobody eq's the music right with always a soft quiet voice where you got to turn it up then get blasted with some lame music for a second so you crank it down after the dogs start barking, baby wakes up and the wife starts bitching again about some shit you need to be doing for her then the talking part comes back on so you turn the volume back up and right about when the baby gets back to sleep and youve let the dogs out the music comes back on louder because its the stupid outro music then your wife gets leverage on you saying that your on the computer looking at movies all day and you need to go to the store, cook dinner because of some shit about her feet then her car is making a noise and shes worried that a tires gonna fall the fuck off and kill her and the baby and "would you want to be responsible for us dying because you were too busy watching your internet movies and football all day" when you work a 9-5 construction job with overtime pulling 55 hours a week so she can stay at home with the kid and bitch to you about how hard her days been when you get home wore out and hungry listening to how the bath water got cold on her because the baby pooped when she was getting in so that means "im just not in the mood to cook tonight but i dont want any take out or pizza so do you mind cooking us some steaks i got thawed out in the fridge?" Which she didnt and theyre still frozen and its already 8:30 and you gotta be back at the site at 5am when its 5° out and sleeting freezing everything it touches.. godamn i hate my life.. either you finally get comfortable with em and think your gonna have a good ass end of life then she leaves you and takes half your shit but gives you a child support bill or she gets comfortable and turns into something she was not with hair growing in places she used to shave, getting a belly bigger than yours causing her once nice ass to mold into her legs and back and bitches about it but blames you.. if theres a hell after this than heaven must suck too...
Lol. Wow bruh.... Maybe think about taking the wife and kids on a vacation or something before wind up hurting someone. Or maybe try some positive affirmations or do some yoga or something, man.
SANDING THINSET !!! ,,AGGHHHH,,just sponge it off ,,and be careful so its not why out pass tile edge ,,you should at that point be able to determine tile edge ,use a piece of tape if need be ,,or prime it then skim coat with mud ,,who in gods name sands mortar
This was simple, to the point, and not full of useless info or tool promotions. Thanks!! Just what I needed for my DIY bathroom remodel. Much appreciated.
Just about the best tape and mud video I've seen, especially the part about the Schluter mixing valve cover. This is the second bathroom I've done in our new house (The third was a fiberglass surround, so no mudding or valve cover needed), and no one ever told me about this before.
When it tape the joint from tile backer to drywall I always used a small taping knife. Usually just a 4". That way I don't spread thinset all over the drywall. I also always run my tile completely over whatever thinset Is on the drywall. With a little planning you can almost do it that way everytine. It makes the tapers job a hell of a lot easier !
Quick and to the point, which is what someone that's looking how to get something done, needs. Thanks!
I appreciate the feedback.
Great video I want to say one thing I noticed just to make it clear for anyone else, if you fill the gap first, you're feeling the gap... which means in a sense in that way, the gap doesn't have as much room for expansion in the areas where the mud is.
If you've ever been in a house where when the season is changing and you hear random mysterious little creeks and cracks it's always been my curiosity if it's scenarios like this. But either way whether you can hear them or not I was always taught to tape first so the gap remains for expansion on the whole line.
Great job...many DYIers will find this video a good guide. Keep up the good work!!!
Always tape the end of your value body stem to prevent accidentally filling the stem hole with thinset.
How about not throwing away the plastic shield that comes with the valve?
Very specifically what i needed thank you!! Quick and helpful
A good video for a difficult transitional area. Thanks!
Thank you very much for this very professional informative video.🙂
Can you use the go board sealant instead of thinset? Also, same process for go board to ceiling transition?
What type of thin set are you using
thanks for the tips! i’m transitioning to an outside corner. goboard on one side drywall on the other. should i use a metal corner bead set in thinset? i’ll have tile on one corner, finished w metal edge profile & drywall on the other corner.
Yikes... sanding Thinset? When this type approach is unavoidable the pros use a damp sponge to smooth out any thinset where the thinset transitions onto drywall. I wouldn't bother with the mesh tape either. When using GoBoard simply fill the gap with GoBoard sealant. Personally, I always plan it so when installing my tile and using thinset, the tile "spans the gap" going from the GoBoard to the drywall overlapping the gap. No sanding or feathering needed.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks man!
good video, the drywall mud is waterproof ? could you give a link about it .
Sure moves fast thank you for the help
Awesome work man. I appreciate this. I love seeing great workmanship.
Can you extend the goboard past where you want to tile? Thinking the waterproof backer would be better than the mold resitant drywall? Just worried about how it would texture.
You can. It's not really necessary unless you are concerned that you are going to get a lot of water out of the shower. You will probably need to skim coat it with drywall mud of something. Otherwise, you won't have a smooth surface, like you would with drywall.
What if you transition from wonderboard lite in the shower space to a thicker drywall for the rest of the bathroom?
Same problem I have. I have old house, it was all button lath and floated. The previous shower was chicken wire and wire mesh and very thick. So with modern cement board, it will be a lot thinner than my wall. So I’m not sure how to transition from thinner shower wall to thicker bathroom wall?
@@liammiller8259 can you add filler pieces to the studs to give it more thickness? Another option is a piece of trim similar to transition between floors
You fur the walls with the Wonderboard with thin strips of plywood to bring them level with the old drywall. Or, as an alternative, you can use mud on the 2x4's before setting the Wonderboard ( a little trickier I think).
I have a question for you please. I have 1/2” drywall and bought 1/4” hardie because that’s what I saw first, do I need to install 1/2” hardie since I have 1/2” drywall?
So no, there is no requirement to have 1/2 inch hardie board, at least not that I am aware of. That being said you will probably need to build out the wall 1/4 inch underneath the hardie board if you are wanting them to be flush. Now if the plan is to just run your tile to the end of the hardie board you could probably get away with not worrying about them being flush cause. If it were me I would probably go with 1/2inch as long as you haven't already installed the 1/4inch. I assume you are laying tile, is this in a shower or bathtub? If it is, I suggest going with something similar to goBoard or schluter as they don't require waterproofing. Where a cement board needs a waterproofing system over the top.
If your drywall was from 3mm to 6mm proud, how would you build out your wall board?
If you haven't installed the wall board yet I would shim behind this wall that need to be built out. You can buy 6 to 8ft shims. If you have already installed the wall board you can try to build up the tile using mortar behind it. Though if it only 3-6mm might be able to just in a thicker tile edging and cover the difference. I apologize for the delayed response.
Your video is great. Where is the link to your installation of the Goboard? I've seen other links but would like to see your version. TYIA
I don't have one.
This little ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
Screw spacing on the wallboard edges is 8".
Hi Aaron, great info! What type of thin set did you use for the Kerdi shower mixer valve seal? Thanks!
If you are tiling just use what ever you are using for the tile. There isn't a specific thinset that you need for the shower mixer seal.
Is this a tub or shower? Is the outside joint past the outside of the curb or tub edge? Cuz if it is, you don't need to use mud or thinset. You can use silicone caulking if you want. If that joint is outside of the curb or tub edge, it shouldn't get wet. The shower door is the barrier.
It's a tile shower with glass doors. No, the tile runs to the drywall. So I needed the thinset for the tile and the edging. There is no shower surround to attach to the wall.
Great video very helpful for my project. I have question I cannot find the answer to. My new vanity (73 1/2" +- 1/8" according to specs) will be captured between 2 walls, ie backsplash on 3 sides. One wall is fixed the I need to determine where to place it. So how do I determine allowance for tile and the thinset? Really I guess it comes down to thin set thickness because backer board and wall tile thickness I can measure. Maybe I am over thinking this DOES THE FINISHED THINSET THICKNESS change drastically from the notch thickness of the trowel you use?
Not really. It really just depends on how thick you put on the the thinset. Are you using in Large format tile or something small like subway tile? Assuming the walls are flat you might add 1/16 to 1/8 on each side just to accommodate the thickness of the thinset. I am not a professional tile installer by any means so you might try asking Home Repair Tutor, TileCoach, or Sal Diblasi or someone like that. They all do a lot of tile videos.
This is great. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing. Is this light weight backer board strong enough to a a piece marble? I am so worried as I have bought these board, and still not installed because of the reason above.
You would have to check manufacturer specs. I think it would depend on the brand.
@@HomeRepairHub I am talking about GoBoard. I bought them but they are so light weighted. Don’t know if they can hold up the marble. Any idea?
With goboard or even with Kerdi board the mixing valve seal is unnecessary. It's designed for use with water resistant drywall and the Kerdi membrane. I usually run my water proofing at least 2-3 inches outside of the tub or shower and my tile about an inch past that. This step is also unneeded if you're going to do it though you should use the black tape that's made for thinset usually in the tile department not the white or tan in the drywall area.
Thank you for your help!
Would you know about goboard I’m for floor installation? If I install the 1/2” go board on top of a 3/4 plywood floor, do I need to mortar it down or can I just screw it down? Also, I will only have one seem, so I leave an 1/8th inch gap there and all around perimeter correct? Then do I use the goboard sealant all around perimeter where I left the 1/8th inch gap or just the one seem? Then tile after?
I have never installed go board on the floor. When I did my floor in the bathroom I used cement board. Sal Diblasi does a lot of tiling video's and might be a good resource.
Should the cement board be mesh taped to the ceiling sheetrock. I’ve got my cement board going all the way to the ceiling and I’m not sure if I should tape them together.
I would probably use paper tape. Then just cover with mortar for your tile If you are running your tile all the way to the ceiling it is always best to use a water tight sealant at the top as well. Are you doing a steam shower or just normal shower?
@@HomeRepairHub Normal shower. Thank you so much for answering my question.
This is very helpful info. Thank you!
I have a half inch gap between mine because the shower is 36.5" wide and the GoBoard is only 36" wide. At the time I thought, "Oh I'll just add a sliver and cover over it." Now I'm panicking that I don't actually know what to do with it. Google says Thin set isn't for large gaps, so should I use (real) mortar for that?
The great thing about GoBoad is it can be cut to any size and shape and attached securely using GoBoard sealant. I had a similar issue (my gap was 3/4") and was instructed by the Johns Mansville support desk to simply cut a strip of Goboard wide enough to fill the gap and affix it in place using GoBoard sealant making sure all raw exposed edges of the GoBoard have sealant applied.
Good information. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
You ‘mud’ the seam, but what product are you using. Sanded thinset? Non-sanded Laticrete product?
Thinset.
How would you handle this joint when the cement board is thicker than the drywall?
I would still use the thinset and then just taper it off on the drywall side so that you don't notice the transition. To make it look a bit better I will then put a skim coat of drywall mud over the top of the tapered thinset once I am done tiling. This way I can sand it down to make it smooth as thinset is course. Then paint. Are you going to run your tile past the seam?
What did you seal around the mixing valve ?? That schluter did not sit water tight with the valve, has no purpose in my opinion…
I just used mortar to put it on the wall. The idea is that if water gets behind the tile it will be directed around the valve. Not supposed to be water tight against the valve if that is what you are thinking.
@@HomeRepairHub I think he means the mortar is not waterproof so water can seep between the schluter and goboard. You're supposed to use waterproof sealant there.
what about if you have a step in the transition? my shower backer board is about a 1/2 inch higher than my drywall due to framing in the tub and shower walls...
Have you put the tile on yet? I would probably just find something to trim it out with, metal j trim or some kind of shower molding that matches what you are going to trim out the tile with. Maybe a piece of drywall corner bead for the backer board then just find a water tight sealant for between the trim and the drywall.
@@HomeRepairHub not yet just finished the backer board and drywall
Using Shluter products, is it the same technique but with their Kerdi 5” strip?
You are using Kerdi band correct? This isn't my video but it will show you how to properly apply kerdi band. ua-cam.com/video/OzprIHDFgpw/v-deo.html
I have never installed tile before so I am curious; since you are tiling past the seam and onto the drywall, why wouldn't you just use the Goboard sealant like I am assuming you did for the seams of the Goboard panels?
GoBoard has a list of approved sealants and the one I used was from that list. I didn't use GoBoard sealant on the panels. GoBoard's sealant is more expensive and it has to be ordered. Where as some of the other sealants can be picked up at the local hardware store. Being able to run to the hardware store and pick up a tube if I run out is nice. Otherwise you have to wait for the goBoard stuff to come in. If you choose one off the list of approved sealant make sure you look at the setup time's. The goBoard sealant does come with a 10yr limited warranty. Here is the list. www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/global/en/tile-backer-boards/GoBoard-Approved-Alternative-Sealant-List.pdf
@@HomeRepairHub Okay, but why did you choose thin-set to make the joint between the GoBoard and drywall instead of using the sealant you used for the GoBoard to GoBoard joints? Is the sealant that much more expensive than thin-set? It seems like extra work to switch over to thin-set when you were already using the sealant?
@@bobl5737 so to install the tile you will use thinset on the walls. The sealant is just used to cover the screws and cover the gap between two sheets of goBoard. If the gap is larger than 1/8 inch you should use thinset not the sealant.
could you just use the goboard adhesive over the tape transition seem?
You could, though it would probably be kind of messy. I think the challenge would be that you couldn't smooth it out completely, so the area right night to your til wouldn't look very good.
If you try it, I would just do a small section and see what it looks like.
I want to extend my tile out of the shower to cover one whole wall of my bathroom. Once I hit the drywall out of the shower, can I add cement backer board on top of the drywall before tiling or do I need to remove the drywall first? It will get humid but no direct water. The tile is fairly heavy at 4 pounds per square foot.
Yes, you can put backer board over the drywall, though I am not sure why you would do that unless you need to build the wall out to match up with the shower. You may also want to look into a foam backer board like schluter. I am not sure what the weight limitations are with the different systems so you may want to lookin into that.
@@HomeRepairHub Thanks I thought it would be less messy to leave it but realized yesterday that I should just take down the wall's drywall when I gut the shower since it would be safer and I need to replace the whole ceiling's drywall now anyway because of mold. That is a good point about the wall being level with the shower. If I take down the drywall and use cement backer board in the shower and the connecting wall, it will be a smooth transition and won't stick out at all. What is foam board used for vs regular cement backer board? I was thinking of using cement board and adding redguard on top before tiling. I appreciate your help; I am new to all of this!
In the video I am using GoBoard which is a water proof tile backer board. There are lots of different systems on the market, schluter, laticrete hydro ban, USG, etc. The foam board is a tile backboard that is waterproof. Lots of video's on youtube. Here is one that goes over some of the differences and explains what it is. Sal has lots of video's on the different systems. Its much easier to work with then cement board. I still like cement board for flooring. ua-cam.com/video/uxROu4N0WMQ/v-deo.html
I'm assuming you can paint the thinset that's on the drywall?
Yes. My suggestion is to sand the thinset as best as you can, then do a skim coat of drywall mud over the top of the thinset to smooth it out. Then paint.
So you're plastering the walls after you did the tiling?
No. I tiled up to the edge of the backerboard, then just sanded and painted the walls. It I just used drywall mud to transition, then the tile wouldn't adhere properly to the backer board. So I just used morter for the transition, similar to how you would use drywall mud for drywall joints.
I have to plaster over my drywall with multi-finish finishing plaster so I think I'll just fit a a stop bead where the tiles finish and cover my backer board, then butt my tiles up to the stop bead should be nice and neat job.@@HomeRepairHub
Great video, thanks. One question: I was going to install a Kerdi niche in the backer board wall. Should I use the Kerdi tape to seal around it or could I just use the alkali resistant tape?
I would recommend using the Kerdi tape. It is water resistant I believe. And I am not 100%, but I believe it would void any warranty to use anything else. I know that's how it is for the shower systems.
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@Arturo Skylar Instablaster :)
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Cool thanks
Do you have a video of the goboard installation? You mentioned in the video but I didn’t see it on your channel.
Unfortunately I have not got it finished yet. Do you have a specific question regarding goboard? I am currently working on it.
@@HomeRepairHubhow did you seal the gaps between boards? The install instructions say the preferred method is to mount the boards with the gaps then fill. Option 2, adding sealant first then mounting seems like you’d get more coverage? Also did you reinforce the seams or anything like that? I know they have the option to use the goboard fabric seam tape but haven’t seen anyone actually use it.
Also, is there any issues with thinset/tile adhering to the sealant that is spread from the gaps? I’ll be using OSI quad max from their list since I can’t find the goboard stuff.
nice job
How do you connect the drywall to the cement board if there isn’t a stud where they meet?
You have to throw a stud in
In your scenario, I would place a 2x4 stud flat behind the transition so that the drywall and cement board each have 1 3/4 of the stud to screw to. This supports and stabilizes the transition.
What thinset do you use for with goboard for large format tile?
Just go to your local hardware store and read through the different thunder types. Usually the bag will tell you what size of tile it works with. Just look for LFT, large tile, or large format tile on the bag. Shouldn't be hard to determine which stuff is for Large Format tile.
Does Schluter have those covers for valves with a square (i.e. Delta multivalve)?
I am not aware of one, though it's possible there is one. In most cases though you would still cut a circle for the mixing valve and then just cover it with the square valve trim.
Do you thinset on screws in backer board in shower?
You can. What type of backer board are you using? If you are using foam backer board there is usually a sealant that will be used on the corners and screw heads. But each foam board varies a bit. Kerdi is a bit different and uses thinset. If you are using cement backer board you can use thinset to cover the screw heads before or you can wait till you tile and cover the screw heads when you tile. If you are using cement board are you use a water proofing system? Really just depends on what type of backer board you are using.
You used thin set mortar for the seam?
Yep
@@HomeRepairHub I typed this message right after you said it the first time and your reiterated it in the video a few times after, but thank you for the reply, I think I’m just going to use a tile edge trim and mud the seam
Based on his comments and instructions so far, that doesn't sound like a very great plan. How would mudding the seam help keep water out? Thinset is far more waterproof than drywall mud, right?
Does quick set concrete work the same? I saw another video using that and membrane instead.
Quickset should work similar so I would guess it would be fine. I really haven't used it before though so I don't really know what the differences would be.
What mud was used?
I used mortar mix for filling the gap. You can use whatever you are using for your tile.
@1:11 "We don't want to use drywall mud" @1:48 Uses drywall mud.
I used mortar. I said to spread it like you would drywall mud. I said you could use drywall mud once you tile was set to cover the rough spots on the drywall side. I don't actually use any drywall mud in the video.
Suggest that you have a better camera angle. A lot of the video did not show what you were doing. You were cut off above and below.
Or...just fill the crack with the go board sealant...since you are already there with it anyways.
When you are using cement backer board all the way to end of the corner and meeting with drywall, can the [in my case, shiny black] aluminum tile accent / finish sufficiently replace the drywall corner bead or would you need both? (My tile and accent piece go all the way to corner.) Thanks from a first time tile diy-er!
I would still use the corner bead. I had a similar situation in my bathroom.
@@HomeRepairHub what type of bead did you use to make the backerboard/drywall corner? How did you set it on the backerboard side compared to the drywall?
I just used 1/2 inch corner bead from any local hardware store. I used mud on the drywall side and the sealant I used on the backer board on the shower side. Then once it dried I just used thinset over the top to install the tile edge trim. I would just use the same thinset you used on the backer board and then if you covered it with a water tight solution go over it with that too.
Can anyone tell me what type of caulking is used to cover the seems and screw holes with goboard?
The following sealants are all alternates that will work with goBoard. I recommend the following: amzn.to/3aUyU8L
I would avoid the LOCTITE PL S10 Polyurethane Concrete Crack & Masonry Sealant, this is what I used first and it has a very strong odor and takes 7 days or so to cure. Whatever you choose check dry and cure times. I found myself having to wait almost 2 weeks before I could actually start tiling. Some of these products are at your local hardware store as well. I wasn't able to find the goBoard sealant at my Menards but I think some actually carry it and that will work too. I would have had to order it and its more expensive then some of the other options.
DAP 3.0 (model 18360)
DAP DynaFlex 800 (model 80800)
Liquid Nails Fuze-It (model LN-2000)
LOCTITE PL S10 Polyurethane Concrete Crack & Masonry Sealant (model 1618522, 1618521 or 1086693)
LOCTITE PL S40 Polyurethane Window, Door and Siding Sealant (model 1618516 or 1618182)
OSI QuadMax Window, Door & Siding Sealant (model 1868684 or 1893977)
SikaBond Construction Adhesive (model 106403)
QUIKRETE Polyurethane Non-Sag Sealant (model 866011 or 862017)
Rapid Set Sealant (model 196330010)
Don't you just use thinset? Please correct me if thinset should not be used. Thx
@Jeff Dana So yes you can apply thinset, but thinset isn't waterproof. So if you are doing a cement backerboard with just thinset and mesh tape its best to go over it with a waterproofing paint, like redgaurd or something. If you use a foam backerboard there is usually a sealant that goes with it that is waterproof. Schluter, Laticrete, goBoard, there are several out there. I don't do a lot of tiling, but if you want more info on the different options available there are tons of videos on how to waterproof a shower on UA-cam.
What thinset are you using?
I just used the same thinset I used for the tile. What type of tile are you installing?
@@HomeRepairHubwhy don’t you answer the question of what Brand or what exactly thinset did you use. For Pete’s sake man, you went through the trouble of teaching how to do it but won’t tell exactly what product you used. So you don’t get paid, you are helping, Right. I’m 67, female. Paid pros to do a job and it is all crap. I’m familiar with drywall compounds but not thinset. What you are using looks smooth and easier to work with ( smooth flat). 😢. If you are going to help. Don’t stop at where you want. Go all in and help. Very frustrating to see this. Maybe you showed it or said what you used in the previous video where you installed your go boards. I’ll watch that and see if I find the answer. Been up since 2am and it is now 4:56 and will have to take care of sick mom, but hey, that’s what one has to do to get help in what they need. I’ll just spend another hour trying to get my answers which you could have spared me. Good video though. Thanks. Debbie in Texas
My backerboard and my drywall are not the same thickness at the seams. Still do the same type of approach? Also, what thinset are you using?
I would still use the thinset. Is the backer board or drywall thicker? It's a modified thinset. I am using the same thinset I am using for my tile. I am not sure what type of tile you are installing, but whatever you use for the tile would be fine
@@HomeRepairHub the drywall is thicker.
Going with 3x5 white subway tiles.
The modified thinset, are you just adding water to it to thin it down some to make more plyable?
@@wynbarkema3922 you can definitely add a bit more water if it needs to be more pliable it may just take a bit longer to dry. Are you going to run your tile past the edge of the backer board? Or are you stopping before the edge of the backer board? If you run the tile out past the edge of the backer board you will want to taper the thinset off on the backer board side so that it seems flat. You may have to taper the thinset 12 inches or so on the backer board side so it flat enough to run tile over the transition, otherwise your tile will not be level. Similar to how you would taper off one side if you drywall was to different levels.
what is the tape your using?
Its just a alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh tape. Same stuff that would be used for backer board. Something like this ... amzn.to/3qiVmRI
You should not tile over spackle in a wet shower area. The moisture will eventually leach thru the grout lines and dissolve the spackle. If the spackle in in the shower area an inch or son, no big deal but the spackle area this guy put into the shower was way too much.
Spackle? I didn't use spackle. I assume you are talking about the area between the goboard and the purple drywall. I used thinset.
What thinset are you using
I just used what I was using for the tile. I was setting large format time. I would just use whatever you are using for your tile.
Why not just use go board in place of your “purple” drywall
I am only using goboard where I am tiling. My tile stops at the point where the purple drywall and go board meet. I need to be able to paint the wall so I am not going to use goboard on the wall.
Any longer of an intro and it would be playing at mg funeral
LoL
why do you have thinset on your hands and arms?
I was tiling the other side of the shower before I shot the video.
Whats the purpose of taping any of that? Why fill the screws? Doesnt that already take the integrity away from the tile backer as now its been used and nothing installed. All gonna be covered in thinset anyways. Edge the tile over the seams. These companies are to smart for so many.
I’m against spackling and thinsetting this area. You’re adding something that is not waterproof on to a waterproof surface.
If you knew what you were doing and what the manufacture instructions for mesh is you would delete half of your problems bud. You should never bed mesh tape!
Woof! He's hot
I friggn hate how everybody inserts all the music in their videos.. it doesn't make the video any more professional or better/ enjoyable.. its youtube.. if anything it takes away from the whole video because nobody eq's the music right with always a soft quiet voice where you got to turn it up then get blasted with some lame music for a second so you crank it down after the dogs start barking, baby wakes up and the wife starts bitching again about some shit you need to be doing for her then the talking part comes back on so you turn the volume back up and right about when the baby gets back to sleep and youve let the dogs out the music comes back on louder because its the stupid outro music then your wife gets leverage on you saying that your on the computer looking at movies all day and you need to go to the store, cook dinner because of some shit about her feet then her car is making a noise and shes worried that a tires gonna fall the fuck off and kill her and the baby and "would you want to be responsible for us dying because you were too busy watching your internet movies and football all day" when you work a 9-5 construction job with overtime pulling 55 hours a week so she can stay at home with the kid and bitch to you about how hard her days been when you get home wore out and hungry listening to how the bath water got cold on her because the baby pooped when she was getting in so that means "im just not in the mood to cook tonight but i dont want any take out or pizza so do you mind cooking us some steaks i got thawed out in the fridge?" Which she didnt and theyre still frozen and its already 8:30 and you gotta be back at the site at 5am when its 5° out and sleeting freezing everything it touches.. godamn i hate my life.. either you finally get comfortable with em and think your gonna have a good ass end of life then she leaves you and takes half your shit but gives you a child support bill or she gets comfortable and turns into something she was not with hair growing in places she used to shave, getting a belly bigger than yours causing her once nice ass to mold into her legs and back and bitches about it but blames you.. if theres a hell after this than heaven must suck too...
yeah. i usually just mute and turn on captions at first sign of bad volume eq lol
Bro, you ok?
Lol. Wow bruh.... Maybe think about taking the wife and kids on a vacation or something before wind up hurting someone. Or maybe try some positive affirmations or do some yoga or something, man.
Don't need the music to learn how to do this
Thanks for the feedback. I have removed the music in my newer videos. Unfortunately there isn't a good way to do that on existing videos.
SANDING THINSET !!! ,,AGGHHHH,,just sponge it off ,,and be careful so its not why out pass tile edge ,,you should at that point be able to determine tile edge ,use a piece of tape if need be ,,or prime it then skim coat with mud ,,who in gods name sands mortar
Very bad idea use dansheild all the way
DensShield? This video is in regards to the transition from backer board to drywall. This would apply to any type of backer board you use.
@@HomeRepairHub you dont get it dansheild all the way to out side to shower so you dont have to put mesh tape in joint
This could have easily been a 2 minute video..
why is this 6 minutes long lol