Could this finger-joining method be used to make longer stock from short scrap bits, or will the board be much weaker than a board in one piece? In that case, it would also be possible to quickly saw off knots in panels to make finger-joined boards free of knots.
Yannis, that is EXACTLY what this bit was designed to do. The finger joint is stronger than the wood stock alone if properly made. I show a small board glue up using the finger joints, but long stock is fully doable. If you look at stain grade moldings (unprimed) you will see that they are often finger jointed together from shorter stock.
Hi mister Ralph Bagnall thanks for the video. Do you have to cut the last teeth of each piece after you cut it with the fixed bit? I have a fix on and I'm not able to set it up on order to make the 2 pieces to fit only by flipping one of the 2. Am I doing something wrong?
Mehdi, it can be a bit of a challenge to set up the bit because the teeth are staggered. The teeth are made 5/32” apart, so most often you will not be cutting the entire tooth on top or bottom. But the top and bottom cut must be the same. I always recommend preparing some extra stock in the same size needed so you can make test cuts to set up.
David, I have not tried it in plywood. I suspect it would be ok if you used good quality plywood and a tight backer to prevent tear out. The ply would need to be at least 11 layers I suspect. If you do try it, I would love to find out how it works.
@@brianruane8505 please share your metric based videos with me, I would be happy to watch them. I am just here sharing my 40 years of experience as a professional woodworker at no cost to you.
Well, I guess it was a video. Your video was terrible from the standpoint that you didn't give any instruction on how to set up and use the bit. Finger joint bits are one of the most difficult bits to set up and nobody is having a good discussion about how to properly set it up that you're not constantly having to change height for one side of the other of the cut
@@adammortensen8861 the bits set up with a 5/32” interval between fingers. The fixed bit has to be raised and lowered between the two cuts to match the fingers up. The adjustable bit can be set based on the wood thickness with the top and bottom fingers being a different size than the rest. More to do but both halves run on the same set up and get flipped to match up. Feel free to email me at ralph@woodcademy.com with any questions and I will answer them.
Pretty interesting! Loved the woodturning application
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it. I agree, the turning application has some cool possibilities.
Could this finger-joining method be used to make longer stock from short scrap bits, or will the board be much weaker than a board in one piece? In that case, it would also be possible to quickly saw off knots in panels to make finger-joined boards free of knots.
Yannis, that is EXACTLY what this bit was designed to do. The finger joint is stronger than the wood stock alone if properly made. I show a small board glue up using the finger joints, but long stock is fully doable.
If you look at stain grade moldings (unprimed) you will see that they are often finger jointed together from shorter stock.
Excelente 👍
Gracias!
Hi mister Ralph Bagnall thanks for the video. Do you have to cut the last teeth of each piece after you cut it with the fixed bit? I have a fix on and I'm not able to set it up on order to make the 2 pieces to fit only by flipping one of the 2. Am I doing something wrong?
Mehdi, it can be a bit of a challenge to set up the bit because the teeth are staggered. The teeth are made 5/32” apart, so most often you will not be cutting the entire tooth on top or bottom. But the top and bottom cut must be the same. I always recommend preparing some extra stock in the same size needed so you can make test cuts to set up.
Any opinions on how this might work with plywood?
David, I have not tried it in plywood. I suspect it would be ok if you used good quality plywood and a tight backer to prevent tear out. The ply would need to be at least 11 layers I suspect. If you do try it, I would love to find out how it works.
As soon as I heard the words " five thirty seconds" - I knew I was in the wrong century! Its 2024 and way past time to use metric measurements.....
@@brianruane8505 please share your metric based videos with me, I would be happy to watch them. I am just here sharing my 40 years of experience as a professional woodworker at no cost to you.
Well, I guess it was a video. Your video was terrible from the standpoint that you didn't give any instruction on how to set up and use the bit. Finger joint bits are one of the most difficult bits to set up and nobody is having a good discussion about how to properly set it up that you're not constantly having to change height for one side of the other of the cut
@@adammortensen8861 the bits set up with a 5/32” interval between fingers. The fixed bit has to be raised and lowered between the two cuts to match the fingers up. The adjustable bit can be set based on the wood thickness with the top and bottom fingers being a different size than the rest. More to do but both halves run on the same set up and get flipped to match up.
Feel free to email me at ralph@woodcademy.com with any questions and I will answer them.