Anyone who has a 6.2 diesel and doesn't like it, I will gladly take it off your hands. Not sure about the "not reliable" comment. One of the simplest and reliable motors IMO. The 6.2 wasn't about power, it was ALL about fuel economy and it did just that. Half ton trucks and SUVs with the 6.2 diesel and 700r4 got like 20+ mpg. That pretty impressive when everything else at the time was getting 8-10 mpg and diesel was cheaper than gas.
You can have my 6.2 drivetrain 😂 I think the main issue was the problem with the glow plug system lacking reliability depending on the year of the engine and controller type. Most people have to route a manual switch, like I will have to do, because the controllers fail so regularly
I will happily take any 6.2 anyone doesn't want. They are dumb reliable and fuel efficient. You can put a turbo on them and do sub 10 quarter miles....
I've never been a fan of diesels, but those 6.2 and 6.5, when someone hasn't tried to modify it to make 1,000 ft/lbs of torque incorrectly, they do run great and are reliable. Stock to mild built, they seem to run forever
I have a CUCV 84 Chevy that came factory with a J code 6.2 Detroit and it doesn’t have power but is stupid reliable because it doesn’t make enough power to kill itself. It also came factory with a Dana 60 front and a 14 bolt rear. I have it lifted 6 inches on 37 inch humvee tires and I can’t complain at all.
I had a 82 k5 blazer with a 4in lift and 40x15.50x15 tires on 15x12 wheels mild trimming at the bottom of the fenders and you can easily clear big tires.
Bro……. Did you just say “the 6.2 Diesel engine was terrible, and not reliable” That is a shame of a sentence. I drive my 6.2 EVERY DAY. I have no idea what the mileage. And it runs as reliably as a Honda Civic. People ought to HUMBLE themselves and stop looking for power. Would be a shame to get rid of my 6.2. LOVE THE CONTENT. but. Tisk tisk.
Have to agree, after solving the stock problems with my 6.5, its super reliable and far more powerful than my small block. So good that im putting it into my squarebody. Yes im going from gas to a 6.5 diesel.
I had a 1975 K-5 Blazer with a 350 with 400 transmission. I had it for 25 years. When I sold it, it still ran fine but had 330,000 miles. I loved it, but it had one problem. It got about 11 mpg on the highway and about 6 mpg around town. It got to be too expensive to drive regularly, but I still loved it.
I just picked up an 86 k20 suburban with a 350 400thm 4.10 and a rear locker from the factory. It needs work like door handles and a paint job but I got it running good easily and I only paid $1500 and it’s a desert az truck so no rust
Love them square bodies. First vehicle I owned when I turned 16 was a 76 Jimmy it was one year younger than me. Then I had a 78 k10 followed by a 79 Blazer. Just picked up a 77 GMC Sierra Classic K15. 98% complete 98% rust free. Still got my 09 Tahoe ssv with a 5.3. The 77 round eye shortbox she's my baby it's the better truck
Dana 60 only came in 1 tons. Half tons and 3/4 tons came with Danna 44 on earlier ones. Gm 10 bolt on later ones. They used different hubs for 6 lug or 8 lug.
It feels like shutting the trunk on the tailgate squares throws the window off track over time, so you're constantly servicing that thing until you can disassemble it in your sleep.
Started with a 1985 M1009 K5 CUCV as my intro to squarebody chevies. That's still my main girl, but recently bought a 1991 suburban squarebody with brand new 350 crate engine and rebuilt transmission and converting her to a "fake"/"fictional" M1007/M1029 as a parts carrier/support. So in the end I will have my M1009 "Cruiser" and my M1007 "Carrier".
There are also a few good Duramax swap kits for square bodies as well. I'd love to do a Duramax with a 6 speed manual trans. The 6.2 and 6.5 are the most under rated diesel engines. You have to keep in mind that they were never made to have stump pulling torque, they were made for everyday use while getting great fuel mileage.
I have an 83 Suburban with a 6.2 diesel I've had for 15 plus years of my four cars I have that is by far the most reliable one that I own right now it has a 6-inch Lift that clears 35 and could easily clear 37
Beautiful rig. Would've tried to win it had I gotten here in time. Alas, it appears I'm at least a year late. I've been looking at a few classic Burbs and there are a fair number of them out there. My short list includes a LS3 swapped 1989 in good all-around condition, and a 1986 with the original 454 and 3-speed, lifted, in good all-around condition. I'm kinda leaning toward the latter, but we'll see. I thought it was ironic when you were talking about the squared-off wheel arches as a con. You're right, but they're still present on GM trucks today, so anyone who wants bigger rubber has to sky-jack them to make it work. Those AMP Research step sides are the right answer for a truck like that, but man...10 inches of lift? That's still a pretty good climb. I think the Powerstep XL series they came out with for lifted trucks would be better for something with that much lift, as it comes down 4 inches lower, but maybe they weren't out when you were doing this build. I really like the paint on that truck, too. Really looks nice in contrast with the black details. I hope whoever won it is enjoying it. Sounds like a lot of work went into it.
the Square Body is by far a tough and resilient Truck that is highly desired. But age will be its down fall. Rust is the biggest problem and though we all say we can treat it, no we can't get it all. I have an 86 k10 and I have been treating to stop rust for years. I recently began a restore to get it on the road for my enjoyment, hey, it's my favorite truck, I've had it since it was about a year old so I have a connection with it. Clear coat will fail, once that happens, the paint will fail then the metal will rust. If you are in the rust belt where your roads are salted, it will rust from the ground up, everywhere underneath. Ask me how I know. For most the undercarriage and suspension, you can treat that, I use Mineral Oil that has stopped rust progression. But during my restore adventure, I have found the fatal flaw where the rust WILL start and cannot be stopped. There are two weak areas that will fail to rust. -- The cab rear lower corners............ I let a BODY SHOP repair the rust and paint the body. All good now, right? Wrong! The BODY SHOP filled the cab corners with bondo, which after a few years failed and the holes appeared again with vengance. I had a new spot appear as well, just inside the door frame under the latch pin. I crawled under and looked up the cavity. Along the corner where the door frame panel is connected to the corner panel is a seam, it is sealed from the outside but the inner seam is visible and that is were you get rust. It is almost untreatable. Any suggestions accepted. The correct fix would be to take the seam apart (yes major job that almost nobody will do) or treat with something that might stop the rust, if you can access it. If this rust is not stopped it will come back worse than before. -- Lets talk the COWEL and ROCKERS. THEY ARE RELATED in how they work. You get debri and water into the COWEL system. GM designed the COWEL to admit air into the cowel by the windshield, send that air down the left and right side where the duct system can move it inside the vehicle. It's part of the HVAC system. This air goes in two directions after dropping down the sides, it goes down further to the bottom of the inner fenders where it exits as it drys any moisture in there. The SECOND path is a opening that directs the air, water and debri down INTO your ROCKERS. If this was just air and water, it would flow through the ROCKERS and out the end. BUT there is a problem when debri like leaves gets in there. The back side rocker panel goes about 3/4 of the rocker length, front to rear, then the air space in the rocker is blocked by a metal flap. it is not sealed, allowing water and air go get by but it BLOCKS the debri from getting out. The debri gets wet and sits there, breaking down the paint and starting the rust. This is a really bad design and GM trucks are designed this way. You cannot get a probe in the rocker to spray rust treatment or paint without drilling a hole (most difficult to do for access). and if I see what I think I am seeing, this access from the COWEL goes into the door frame(column) before the Rockers, which now allows moisture inside that entire column all the way up the roof pillar. There is NO access to that inner column on either side. Foaming the column and maybe the rockers, would have better controlled this rot but owners are left to handle the after math of rust. Then again, when they rust out, you have to buy a new truck, right? Access to the COWEL area top and sides is a challange. you pretty much have to cut it open to access the inside area, and this would mean removing the fenders and doors. Unfortunately, unless you go above and beyond to treat them, the Rockers are not serviceable until you see rust then you replace the Rockers, in most cases again, disassembly. The column going up (the doors hang on them) has no access, rust will be rampant once it starts, until the metal fails (possibly the doors can fall off) and at this point it is a major repair or replace the cab (with potentially the same problem). I'm into this part of the restore at this point and for the rockers, it's probably easier to use some kind of hose with a spray on the end. Find a place where you can drill an access hole and spray like crazy front to rear. Towards the front, the rocker buts against the opening to the column which is part of the COWEL. This is were the air, water and debri come from. This is also a high rust area and you need to get that spray in there. It is about 3 to 4 inches deep, and it goes up. May not be likely to force the hose up but do the best you can. It would be an idea to put a screen over the opening in the cowel that accesses the Rocker area, maybe even a flap to divert the debri and water but you have to have fenders and inner fender off to access, so maybe not. At the rear bottom of the inner fenders there is a plastic flap, it is snapped on the inner fender and the body and is intended to let water pass and some small dirt. It retains debri. The answer is not to completely remove this cover since is prevents splash from the tires from getting in there. If you make a mod, it has to keep tire splash out but let debri fall out from the cowel.
On the subject of engineers overcomplicating things: Squarebody multistep interior disassembly/assembly (also pre-'95 GMT400). Meanwhile GMT-400-B (95-98) interior dash cluster disassembly - Pull bezel, Press clips and pull to release component. Reassembly, push 'til "click." (I believe the GMT800 is also similar to the 95-98 dash, but I've never had one, so if I'm wrong, sorry.) I do have to complain about engineers, for no easy access to behind dash HVAC components, or certain things engine/drivetrain related, that were clearly designed without any thought to being worked on fully assembled with the rest of the vehicle. Thankfully most things are relatively easy to get to, but there are things that just make me swear terrible things about the engineers and lack of care towards whomever had to service or repair the vehicle. As for the new stuff I don't know. I won't buy one, because they're almost impossible to work on and not nearly as reliable as the mid-'80's squarebody, through GMT800 platforms, and half the engine can't even be reached, because it's under the dash in the new trucks.
8 inch lift fits 37's just fine. Especially if you run the off road designs 1 inch blocks which have multiple holes and I ran mine so they move the front axle 1 inch forward. Yes I said lift block in the front but these ones are legal on the front cause the spring pin goes through it.
The motors are good. Watch more videos on the motor a lot of people love the 6.2 and think it's the best motor. Just not this guy. You can put a turbo on them and run sub 10 quarter miles. Or keep them stock and they run forever
11:58 the grilles are a nightmare? It’s like 5 screws with one being underneath, not that bad. Also 6.2 Detroit diesels are known for being super reliable lol, times were different and they were really for the military cucvs
When those trucks came out in 73, they were called the "Rounded body style", factory service manual says it, the dealer promos, the dealer tech videos. It drives me nuts when people ask me about my squarebody, and I make sure I correct them. I will say the 80-81and up when they went to the spear point, those can be called squarebody. I love my 77 K20, best truck ever
It may be a tradeoff with the "order of operations" door panels and whatnot. You probably don't get such a nice looking door panel, or at least not a door panel that looks how they wanted it to, unless you do that. Maybe there's some other way, but that may be the only way within the budget they were allowed. And not everything on the truck is like that. Just some stuff.
Just got my Bullnose Tshirt and another t-shirt and Hodson Motors hat! They all look good. Can't wait for the drawing! I think the fine print said Dec 15th, right? Good luck to everyone!!
When EVs become the only new vehicle available older trucks that are still serviceable will be in high demand. PS there are no replica replacement cabs available yet.
I hope you see this, how tall in inches is this build without the roof rack? It looked like it fit in a standard 7ft garage door? Thanks! Amazing vision on this build.
I bought my Squarebody suburban a few months ago, and a previous owner swapped the 6.2 for a GM 6.5 Crate. Are they much more reliable? It only has around 80k on it and I want it to last a while.
The comment about them only coming with a 6.2l diesel isn't accurate. The 78 through 81 model years came with the Oldsmobile 5.7l Diesel. Which wasn't a very good diesel in stock form either. But the blocks can be converted to gasoline. And have held well over 1000hp...😂
whats the springs on it? im looking to do 37's on super duty tons but i dont want it sitting to high. not so much worried about the uptravel and have no problems cutting fenders to fit or scooting axle forward and bobbing the rear.
What's your thoughts on a 8100 vortec swap? I've thought about just looking at putting the body of a 92 suburban on my 05 Silverado frame so I can keep all the luxuries
Quite trashing the 6.2 they are the original eco diesel they can 23 mph. And from someone who claims to be a builder tan and grey do not match FYI lol 😆
Meh. Squares are very different to those who are savvy. It gets more clear the more you do it. My 84 nose on a 78 reminded me big time of what I still didn't know.
You complain about the diesels in these trucks but try getting a diesel in a Ford or Dodge of the same years. They didn't even offer any until '89 in the Dodge. This was painful to watch with a lot of miss information.
DUUUDE i can assemble a door panel Blindfolded including the grille. It’s one of the easiest trucks to take apart and rebuild, HAVE YOU SEEN THE OTHER CARS OMG !!!!!!
All the screws are visible! I love the fact that I can pull the dash or window motors and regulators. It’s easy as hell. Besides NOTING on any car gets done in 15/20 minutes lol no way. But i can change all that stuff within an hour Including the tailgate window.
The Dane 60 you have never come in any Chevy. Chevy is passenger side drop and so is the older dodge. This is a Ford Dana 60 and someone had to do there homework to get it to fit.
Grille a "nightmare"? if he thinks that and removing the instrument bezel is a big job, he has no credibility or mechanical skills. In 1974, my dad bought me a wrecked 73 short wheelbase stepside that had been hit in the front, bent frame even. I was 14 and with very limited tools in a shed I rebuilt that truck. I had to take out the engine and send the frame to to be straightened. But by the time I was old enough to drive it, it was finished and I learned plenty. A few years after that at about 19, the Tennessee Valley Authority was building nuclear plants and I bought repaired sold and made my living for a time with square bodies. The only "nightmare" was getting enough money to buy and sell, high interest rates and the only way to sell was the auto trader which was expensive. 40 years later I am in the middle of restoring an 85 blazer to look like one I had in 1988. There is nothing wrong with my axles, but I am also not trying to tear the Blazer up and intentionally drive it off in 3 ft deep mud, crawl up rocks that are feet high. I put in Eaton Tru Tracks and use good sense. A friend in the IDF told me back in the 80s that the 73-then88 Blazers held up better than any 4x4 they had used.
No way do you need 10 inches of lift on a square body to clear 37” tires. If you don’t believe me just look at Off Road Design. They are the square body experts and their 6” lift will clear 37”s with minor trimming of the front fenders. That’s a way better option than jacking your truck up with 10” of lift.
Pros: none of them Cons: all of them Have no fear, if you have found yourself in possession of a Squarebody Chevy I will gladly take it off your hands for retraining for a nominal fee.
Worst vehicle ever made don't waste your money on them not for first time buyers leave them be price is too good to be true go buy something else please
Anyone who has a 6.2 diesel and doesn't like it, I will gladly take it off your hands. Not sure about the "not reliable" comment. One of the simplest and reliable motors IMO. The 6.2 wasn't about power, it was ALL about fuel economy and it did just that. Half ton trucks and SUVs with the 6.2 diesel and 700r4 got like 20+ mpg. That pretty impressive when everything else at the time was getting 8-10 mpg and diesel was cheaper than gas.
You can have my 6.2 drivetrain 😂 I think the main issue was the problem with the glow plug system lacking reliability depending on the year of the engine and controller type. Most people have to route a manual switch, like I will have to do, because the controllers fail so regularly
I will happily take any 6.2 anyone doesn't want. They are dumb reliable and fuel efficient. You can put a turbo on them and do sub 10 quarter miles....
I've never been a fan of diesels, but those 6.2 and 6.5, when someone hasn't tried to modify it to make 1,000 ft/lbs of torque incorrectly, they do run great and are reliable. Stock to mild built, they seem to run forever
Every single one I have seen has a cracked up block in the bottom end.
It's an old car it will break and have problems and that fuel economy 😆😆😆😆
I have a CUCV 84 Chevy that came factory with a J code 6.2 Detroit and it doesn’t have power but is stupid reliable because it doesn’t make enough power to kill itself. It also came factory with a Dana 60 front and a 14 bolt rear. I have it lifted 6 inches on 37 inch humvee tires and I can’t complain at all.
I had a 82 k5 blazer with a 4in lift and 40x15.50x15 tires on 15x12 wheels mild trimming at the bottom of the fenders and you can easily clear big tires.
Square bodys are by far the best builds ever
100%
Love the 6.2! No it's not a Cummins or a Duramax but it's a good engine. There are plenty of us who will take 1 off your hands.
Bro……. Did you just say “the 6.2 Diesel engine was terrible, and not reliable”
That is a shame of a sentence.
I drive my 6.2 EVERY DAY. I have no idea what the mileage. And it runs as reliably as a Honda Civic.
People ought to HUMBLE themselves and stop looking for power. Would be a shame to get rid of my 6.2. LOVE THE CONTENT. but. Tisk tisk.
Have to agree, after solving the stock problems with my 6.5, its super reliable and far more powerful than my small block. So good that im putting it into my squarebody. Yes im going from gas to a 6.5 diesel.
I had a 1975 K-5 Blazer with a 350 with 400 transmission. I had it for 25 years. When I sold it, it still ran fine but had 330,000 miles. I loved it, but it had one problem. It got about 11 mpg on the highway and about 6 mpg around town. It got to be too expensive to drive regularly, but I still loved it.
I got a 93 Silverado 6.5 turbo diesel 5-speed manual 330k on dash and gets 23 mpg and always always starts best truck out of 9 I've owned
I just picked up an 86 k20 suburban with a 350 400thm 4.10 and a rear locker from the factory. It needs work like door handles and a paint job but I got it running good easily and I only paid $1500 and it’s a desert az truck so no rust
Love them square bodies. First vehicle I owned when I turned 16 was a 76 Jimmy it was one year younger than me. Then I had a 78 k10 followed by a 79 Blazer.
Just picked up a 77 GMC Sierra Classic K15. 98% complete 98% rust free. Still got my 09 Tahoe ssv with a 5.3. The 77 round eye shortbox she's my baby it's the better truck
I've owned several. Currently 88 K5 3/4 ton axles and 37s. Still better than anything on a lot.
Dana 60 only came in 1 tons.
Half tons and 3/4 tons came with Danna 44 on earlier ones.
Gm 10 bolt on later ones.
They used different hubs for 6 lug or 8 lug.
It feels like shutting the trunk on the tailgate squares throws the window off track over time, so you're constantly servicing that thing until you can disassemble it in your sleep.
@ 1:00 * The squarebody style ended in 1987, not 1988, except for the Blazer, Suburban, and also the one ton trucks that ran through 1991.
Could you share information on the roof rack. I would love to get that same one for mine. Please drop details.
Started with a 1985 M1009 K5 CUCV as my intro to squarebody chevies. That's still my main girl, but recently bought a 1991 suburban squarebody with brand new 350 crate engine and rebuilt transmission and converting her to a "fake"/"fictional" M1007/M1029 as a parts carrier/support. So in the end I will have my M1009 "Cruiser" and my M1007 "Carrier".
There are also a few good Duramax swap kits for square bodies as well. I'd love to do a Duramax with a 6 speed manual trans. The 6.2 and 6.5 are the most under rated diesel engines. You have to keep in mind that they were never made to have stump pulling torque, they were made for everyday use while getting great fuel mileage.
I drive a 1977 C-10 inline six Th350 with an advance adapters overdrive and cruise with freeway traffic no problem
Squarebody Suburbans are 100% all pros for me. 🇺🇲
I have an 83 Suburban with a 6.2 diesel I've had for 15 plus years of my four cars I have that is by far the most reliable one that I own right now it has a 6-inch Lift that clears 35 and could easily clear 37
Squarebodies are great because they're catalog cars. If you want, you can build one from scratch outta a book.
But the 3/4 ton and 1 tons did come with 44s and 60s lol
Beautiful rig. Would've tried to win it had I gotten here in time. Alas, it appears I'm at least a year late. I've been looking at a few classic Burbs and there are a fair number of them out there. My short list includes a LS3 swapped 1989 in good all-around condition, and a 1986 with the original 454 and 3-speed, lifted, in good all-around condition. I'm kinda leaning toward the latter, but we'll see. I thought it was ironic when you were talking about the squared-off wheel arches as a con. You're right, but they're still present on GM trucks today, so anyone who wants bigger rubber has to sky-jack them to make it work. Those AMP Research step sides are the right answer for a truck like that, but man...10 inches of lift? That's still a pretty good climb. I think the Powerstep XL series they came out with for lifted trucks would be better for something with that much lift, as it comes down 4 inches lower, but maybe they weren't out when you were doing this build. I really like the paint on that truck, too. Really looks nice in contrast with the black details. I hope whoever won it is enjoying it. Sounds like a lot of work went into it.
the Square Body is by far a tough and resilient Truck that is highly desired.
But age will be its down fall.
Rust is the biggest problem and though we all say we can treat it, no we can't get it all.
I have an 86 k10 and I have been treating to stop rust for years.
I recently began a restore to get it on the road for my enjoyment, hey, it's my favorite truck, I've had it since it was about
a year old so I have a connection with it.
Clear coat will fail, once that happens, the paint will fail then the metal will rust.
If you are in the rust belt where your roads are salted, it will rust from the ground up, everywhere underneath. Ask me how I know.
For most the undercarriage and suspension, you can treat that, I use Mineral Oil that has stopped rust progression.
But during my restore adventure, I have found the fatal flaw where the rust WILL start and cannot be stopped.
There are two weak areas that will fail to rust.
-- The cab rear lower corners............
I let a BODY SHOP repair the rust and paint the body. All good now, right? Wrong!
The BODY SHOP filled the cab corners with bondo, which after a few years failed and the holes appeared again with vengance.
I had a new spot appear as well, just inside the door frame under the latch pin. I crawled under and looked up the cavity.
Along the corner where the door frame panel is connected to the corner panel is a seam,
it is sealed from the outside but the inner seam is visible and that is were you get rust.
It is almost untreatable. Any suggestions accepted.
The correct fix would be to take the seam apart (yes major job that almost nobody
will do) or treat with something that might stop the rust, if you can access it.
If this rust is not stopped it will come back worse than before.
-- Lets talk the COWEL and ROCKERS. THEY ARE RELATED in how they work.
You get debri and water into the COWEL system.
GM designed the COWEL to admit air into the cowel by the windshield, send that air down the left and right side where the duct system can
move it inside the vehicle. It's part of the HVAC system.
This air goes in two directions after dropping down the sides, it goes down further to the bottom of the inner fenders where it exits as it drys any
moisture in there.
The SECOND path is a opening that directs the air, water and debri down INTO your ROCKERS.
If this was just air and water, it would flow through the ROCKERS and out the end. BUT there is a problem when debri like leaves gets in there.
The back side rocker panel goes about 3/4 of the rocker length, front to rear, then the air space in the rocker is blocked by a metal flap.
it is not sealed, allowing water and air go get by but it BLOCKS the debri from getting out. The debri gets wet and sits there, breaking down
the paint and starting the rust. This is a really bad design and GM trucks are designed this way.
You cannot get a probe in the rocker to spray rust treatment or paint without drilling a hole (most difficult to do for access).
and if I see what I think I am seeing, this access from the COWEL goes into the door frame(column) before the Rockers, which now allows
moisture inside that entire column all the way up the roof pillar. There is NO access to that inner column on either side.
Foaming the column and maybe the rockers, would have better controlled this rot but owners are left to handle the after math of rust.
Then again, when they rust out, you have to buy a new truck, right?
Access to the COWEL area top and sides is a challange. you pretty much have to cut it open to access the inside area, and this would mean
removing the fenders and doors.
Unfortunately, unless you go above and beyond to treat them, the Rockers are not serviceable until you see rust then you replace the Rockers, in most cases again, disassembly.
The column going up (the doors hang on them) has no access, rust will be rampant once it starts, until the metal fails (possibly the doors can fall off)
and at this point it is a major repair or replace the cab (with potentially the same problem).
I'm into this part of the restore at this point and for the rockers, it's probably easier to use some kind of hose with a spray on the end.
Find a place where you can drill an access hole and spray like crazy front to rear.
Towards the front, the rocker buts against the opening to the column which is part of the COWEL. This is were the air, water and debri come from.
This is also a high rust area and you need to get that spray in there. It is about 3 to 4 inches deep, and it goes up. May not be likely to force the
hose up but do the best you can.
It would be an idea to put a screen over the opening in the cowel that accesses the Rocker area, maybe even a flap to divert the debri and water but
you have to have fenders and inner fender off to access, so maybe not.
At the rear bottom of the inner fenders there is a plastic flap, it is snapped on the inner fender and the body and is intended to let water pass
and some small dirt. It retains debri.
The answer is not to completely remove this cover since is prevents splash from the tires from getting in there. If you make a mod, it has to keep tire
splash out but let debri fall out from the cowel.
On the subject of engineers overcomplicating things: Squarebody multistep interior disassembly/assembly (also pre-'95 GMT400).
Meanwhile GMT-400-B (95-98) interior dash cluster disassembly - Pull bezel, Press clips and pull to release component. Reassembly, push 'til "click."
(I believe the GMT800 is also similar to the 95-98 dash, but I've never had one, so if I'm wrong, sorry.)
I do have to complain about engineers, for no easy access to behind dash HVAC components, or certain things engine/drivetrain related, that were clearly designed without any thought to being worked on fully assembled with the rest of the vehicle. Thankfully most things are relatively easy to get to, but there are things that just make me swear terrible things about the engineers and lack of care towards whomever had to service or repair the vehicle. As for the new stuff I don't know. I won't buy one, because they're almost impossible to work on and not nearly as reliable as the mid-'80's squarebody, through GMT800 platforms, and half the engine can't even be reached, because it's under the dash in the new trucks.
8 inch lift fits 37's just fine. Especially if you run the off road designs 1 inch blocks which have multiple holes and I ran mine so they move the front axle 1 inch forward. Yes I said lift block in the front but these ones are legal on the front cause the spring pin goes through it.
Have had 2 square burbs, a ‘75 454 c10 and an ‘87 k10, loved them both and currently looking at an ‘86 c20
I’ve been looking around for an M1009 CUCV that won’t break the bank. Not concerned if motor is good but do care about the body and frame
The motors are good. Watch more videos on the motor a lot of people love the 6.2 and think it's the best motor. Just not this guy. You can put a turbo on them and run sub 10 quarter miles. Or keep them stock and they run forever
11:58 the grilles are a nightmare? It’s like 5 screws with one being underneath, not that bad. Also 6.2 Detroit diesels are known for being super reliable lol, times were different and they were really for the military cucvs
Great looking rig, what steps were used on that Suburban? I saw them come down when the door opened.
Get a Big 10 or a Heavy Half. Square body..
The squarebodies DID come with a Dana 60 in the one ton trucks.
Are you sure? All the research I've done states that Chevy only used a Dana 60 front axle in 3500 series 88-98 trucks
All good!
Chevrolet started using Dana 60 in 1977 in the K30.
@@tadjohnston4883I've got one of those neck down suckers 🍻
I have an '86 Jeep Grandwagoneer that's highly modified. I would compare its original start as "square body" in design.
When those trucks came out in 73, they were called the "Rounded body style", factory service manual says it, the dealer promos, the dealer tech videos. It drives me nuts when people ask me about my squarebody, and I make sure I correct them. I will say the 80-81and up when they went to the spear point, those can be called squarebody. I love my 77 K20, best truck ever
Oh. You're one of those?
Yea, and the next gen after square are called old body styles... so what? Pretty sure they were not called that in the manual either.
If I swapped a squarebody Suburban to a diesel or from the old 6.2 Detroit, would Duramax swap it
It may be a tradeoff with the "order of operations" door panels and whatnot. You probably don't get such a nice looking door panel, or at least not a door panel that looks how they wanted it to, unless you do that. Maybe there's some other way, but that may be the only way within the budget they were allowed. And not everything on the truck is like that. Just some stuff.
Just got my Bullnose Tshirt and another t-shirt and Hodson Motors hat! They all look good. Can't wait for the drawing! I think the fine print said Dec 15th, right? Good luck to everyone!!
NOT TO ONLY THAT. I get 21 miles per gallon. COME ON!!!!!
Men my burb 97 k2500 i had to put 25K in two years to bring it back to normal and get a little bit of esthetic
When EVs become the only new vehicle available older trucks that are still serviceable will be in high demand. PS there are no replica replacement cabs available yet.
I cut my teeth on a 77 chevy long bed. Was my first vehicle, so I thought ALL vehicles took a multi step process to change parts. Lol
For me it's simple: pros: they're awesome! Cons: I don't own one.
I hope you see this, how tall in inches is this build without the roof rack? It looked like it fit in a standard 7ft garage door? Thanks! Amazing vision on this build.
Where did you find the winch bumper? I’ve been looking for that particular one
I own a 1987 chevy k5 blazer and I love it
god i cant wait till mine is done 1991 suburban 2500
I bought my Squarebody suburban a few months ago, and a previous owner swapped the 6.2 for a GM 6.5 Crate. Are they much more reliable? It only has around 80k on it and I want it to last a while.
The 6.2 is the basis of the 6.5 humvee motor. The 6.2 is old some parts that are not the most recent design but still dumb reliable and fuel efficient
Best trucks ever!
How can I buy one of these??
I have a 79 burb I may be willing to part ways with. Needs body work, sbc 400, auto trans, 4wd, engine needs rebuilt
Try living on the rust belt haha. Hard to find a squarebody that isn’t rusted out that someone isn’t asking an arm and a leg for
Biggest downside to a square body is you have to lift them to the moon to fit big tires.
I want this sooooo much!
Do you have a build list for this??
Lol I don't think they are even close to being complicated to take apart or put together couldn't be any more simple tbh
The comment about them only coming with a 6.2l diesel isn't accurate. The 78 through 81 model years came with the Oldsmobile 5.7l Diesel. Which wasn't a very good diesel in stock form either. But the blocks can be converted to gasoline. And have held well over 1000hp...😂
Thank you I’m about to buy an 82’
whats the springs on it? im looking to do 37's on super duty tons but i dont want it sitting to high. not so much worried about the uptravel and have no problems cutting fenders to fit or scooting axle forward and bobbing the rear.
4 or 6 inch be plenty for 37s
what rear springs are you running?
Picked up a 77 c20 for when my 22 Ram decides to do computer recall crap
I would love a classic with a diesel
Kare kasa hayraniyim 83 C20 suburbanim var 350 4bbl sanzuman THM 400 bence en ideali .
That poor old Cummins will be screaming for a whole new truck as it's rolling to the boneyard
What's your thoughts on a 8100 vortec swap? I've thought about just looking at putting the body of a 92 suburban on my 05 Silverado frame so I can keep all the luxuries
I think any body swap you do will make them drive great!!!
🤣 no doubt
What roof rack is that
Quite trashing the 6.2 they are the original eco diesel they can 23 mph. And from someone who claims to be a builder tan and grey do not match FYI lol 😆
Meh. Squares are very different to those who are savvy. It gets more clear the more you do it. My 84 nose on a 78 reminded me big time of what I still didn't know.
Short answer, he'll no. 4RUNNER option looks better in every way. They stay running and don't falk apart. 450k mi strong and no rust !
Montero owner here. I feel the same way.
My sbc gots the same, no abs or check engine tho….
You complain about the diesels in these trucks but try getting a diesel in a Ford or Dodge of the same years. They didn't even offer any until '89 in the Dodge.
This was painful to watch with a lot of miss information.
I already bought one so
6.2 with 6.5 turbo FTW
Only con is not having one 😎
Keeping it running is easy...keeping the oil in my diesel...impossible
DUUUDE i can assemble a door panel Blindfolded including the grille. It’s one of the easiest trucks to take apart and rebuild, HAVE YOU SEEN THE OTHER CARS OMG !!!!!!
All the screws are visible! I love the fact that I can pull the dash or window motors and regulators. It’s easy as hell. Besides NOTING on any car gets done in 15/20 minutes lol no way. But i can change all that stuff within an hour
Including the tailgate window.
“Hop right into a good classic” starting at around $15k.
You don't need $15k to get into a classic. Also, if people keep putting leftists in office, that $15k today will seem like peanuts in 4 to 6 years.
The Dane 60 you have never come in any Chevy. Chevy is passenger side drop and so is the older dodge. This is a Ford Dana 60 and someone had to do there homework to get it to fit.
Pros is if you own one now they are going up in price. Cons is if you don’t own one and are looking for one they are going up in price lol 😂.
Grille a "nightmare"? if he thinks that and removing the instrument bezel is a big job, he has no credibility or mechanical skills. In 1974, my dad bought me a wrecked 73 short wheelbase stepside that had been hit in the front, bent frame even. I was 14 and with very limited tools in a shed I rebuilt that truck. I had to take out the engine and send the frame to to be straightened. But by the time I was old enough to drive it, it was finished and I learned plenty. A few years after that at about 19, the Tennessee Valley Authority was building nuclear plants and I bought repaired sold and made my living for a time with square bodies. The only "nightmare" was getting enough money to buy and sell, high interest rates and the only way to sell was the auto trader which was expensive. 40 years later I am in the middle of restoring an 85 blazer to look like one I had in 1988. There is nothing wrong with my axles, but I am also not trying to tear the Blazer up and intentionally drive it off in 3 ft deep mud, crawl up rocks that are feet high. I put in Eaton Tru Tracks and use good sense. A friend in the IDF told me back in the 80s that the 73-then88 Blazers held up better than any 4x4 they had used.
No way do you need 10 inches of lift on a square body to clear 37” tires. If you don’t believe me just look at Off Road Design. They are the square body experts and their 6” lift will clear 37”s with minor trimming of the front fenders. That’s a way better option than jacking your truck up with 10” of lift.
I really don’t like squares but this one is well done 👍🏻
You must be a Peter puffer then
If you find yourself reviewing this video chances are that square bodies are older than you.
Pros: none of them
Cons: all of them
Have no fear, if you have found yourself in possession of a Squarebody Chevy I will gladly take it off your hands for retraining for a nominal fee.
You talk to much
Worst vehicle ever made don't waste your money on them not for first time buyers leave them be price is too good to be true go buy something else please
Why not a gm dana 60 front?