Awesome! My wife's scooter died, and it turned out to be the drive belt was completely toasted. It was a mess in there, but with this video, I was able to get in, take it all apart, clean things up and get her back on the road! Thanks for sharing!! Respect!
man i learned more in the past 30 mins of watching you than the whole 2 years ive had watching other mechanics working on my scooter. now i am fully confident that i can do these things myself
Thanks for this. Brilliant advice, not just on how to take apart, which is what so many do, but explaining to the layman what you need to inspect, and not replace if not necessary, regardless of what the book says.
49ccScoot, could I ask a question regarding my scooter? Around 4 years ago I disassembled my Aprilia Sr 50 2000 Air Cooled scoot and left it like that. Around a month ago, I decided to rebuild the engine and hopefully bring it back to its glory days. I am assembling all the parts and watching as many YT vids as possible, but I only have a problem with the starter clutch behind the variator, more specifically, I just have no damn idea if I am supposed to have any washers behind the variator. I have so many parts from when I took my scooter apart that I am trying to figure out where everything goes. In this scooter, you didn't have anything separating the two parts. Would it be dangerous or problematic to the engine if I, say, didn't install anything in between that I was supposed to in the first place? Cheers, mate, your videos are a godsend! I'll let you know when I manage to finish.
Thank you so much for the speedy response. I figured out that it wasn't the fan giving me the grinding sound. I am about to take everything off to inspect. Thank you again. I'm sure I'll be frantically commenting with you very soon. LOL! :)
I used to tear apart my cheap 250cc Chinese scoot to replace variators, belts and inspect the clutch. I now own a Burgman 650. Man, I don't want to even think about the clutch/belt on it. I guess why I purchased the 5 year warranty. Good video for those who may be a little intimidated for doing their own work..
I've watched a few of you're videos now and they all have really clear and concise information on every part you're working with. Thanks for all the hard work you've put into them.
great step by step video very well and clear explanation i dont understand why someone would give this video a thumbs down some people are just to stupid not appreciate a good honest instruction sorry for the french
Thank you...I must have watched twenty videos..non made any sense..untill I watched yours I basically had to extrapolate what I thought . Your good at explaining things.....keep it up
Thanks so much for posting this video! I have a 2007 Baja SC50 with the QJ1P39QMB-3 motor mated with the 1E40QMB Jog/Minarelli CVT that uses 2 stroke CVT parts that look like the ones in this video. The clutch and variator look just like the ones in this video but the CVT cover is different and unique on the Baja. It is a big help to see a CVT that actually looks like mine being shown! It took me awhile to understand why videos showing typical Chinese scooter CVT's were using parts that didn't apply to my scooter. It was even more confusing as Baja also made another version of the SC50 in more recent years that was basically the same scooter as the TaoTao ATM50-A1 and Jonway YY50QT-6 which does use a typical Chinese CVT and has the more common 139QMB motor. QianJiang scooter who made the QJ Baja SC50 as a 4 stroke also makes a 2 stroke motor version that is rebranded and sold under various names. For anyone finding this video and comment that has this Baja SC50 {Keeway Hurricane body style} with the QJ {QianJiang} anomaly engine and 1E40QMB Jog/Minarelli style CVT just remember that it is the variator with the 21mm inner slide bushing and 15 tooth spline that fits the Baja and the 15x12 rollers that fit the variator. I would assume the performance variators and clutch assemblies and springs for the Jog/Minarelli CVT's will work on the Baja too. You can get the stock variator parts and rear clutch assembly and springs here www.scrappydogscooters.com/50CC_2-STROKE_PARTS.html and the hard to find 836-17-30 CVT belt here www.scrappydogscooters.com/Replacement_Parts.html I'm not trying to promote their parts on your video and you can find these parts other places like ebay but anyone with this QJ Baja SC50 will have a hard time finding these parts especially the CVT Belt until they realize it uses the 1E40QMB Jog/Minarelli CVT parts so I'm just trying to help anyone with this scooter. One other thing the engine on the QJ Baja is slightly different but any big bore kit up to 72cc with the 47mm or smaller piston should work. The 80cc big bore kit being called 100cc by many sellers with the 50mm piston won't fit this Baja without enlarging the opening on the case. Also remember the variator rollers that come with some big bore kits are 16x13 and won't fit as the Baja uses the 15x12. The CVT gaskets that come with the kits won't work either. Shared this video to my facebook page Moped and Scooter Lovers too. facebook.com/mopedscooterlovers
+photonrayswaves Good info. They are oddball engines. I'm not sure why they thought it was a good idea. They don't seem to perform much different than the typical 139QMB that's easier/less confusing to get parts for.
Very comprehensive video. This video ought to be linked by the manufacturers as a service operation or along with their service literature or something.
Thank you for your videos. Having spent a little fortune to have someone change the belt after it snapped. You have give me the confidence to DIY it next time. I'm even planning to order a high-speed pulley. :)
Ok i will definetly give this a try, lots of great suggestions and ideas here i will keep you posted on how well things work out from what you told me to do,thanks a lot you are the man,peace.
3 days from buying a SCOOTER It fails. Brilliant video on what to expect in the transmission. Sorted problem - broke the sheave plate but new one on order. Will put together for the weekend. Thanks.
First class post! Covering every detail, I'm going to attempt this for the first time on my Aprilla mojito 125 cc in the next few days. This video will be right by my side. Excellent tuition, will let you know how I get on.
I ditch the gasket most of the time, because there's nothing that needs to be sealed in or out for regular use. Sometimes starter setups will be picky with just the small amount that the spacing is off without the gasket though. One thing you can try to keep the gasket in good shape and so you don't have to mess with it is to apply a spray on gasket adhesive to 1 side. Use a thin film of grease on the other. It should stick to the case or cover but let the cover be removed easily.
You should be able to see if there's a major problem with the clutch since it's apart. If you don't see any damage, nothing is loose, etc... the problem may be elsewhere. For the knocking, internal knock could be a sign of serious issues or could be something very minor. Rotate the engine with the variator off to start isolating the noise. Check the stator side as well.
I think your variator should have 2 holes int he front where you can put something to lock it. The tool is shown in the vid, but you can make one with 2 metal bars and a couple of bolts that will fit into the holes, plus nuts to secure the bolts to the rods. You could also use a strap wrench to try and hold the flywheel on the other side while removing the vari nut. An impact and sockets are good investments though. Those will help with a lot of jobs.
Definitely pop the cover and check the belt. I've had belts go just like that with no crazy noises. I put a link to a vid of it happening with a pic of the destroyed belt in the description.
@@derekmaxwell8164 Most likely clutch/CVT. Check the whole thing, but pay close attention to the clutch because it's the biggest factor for initial takeoff.
***** Hi, I have a problem with my Yamaha Aerox 100 2 stroke. When it is cold, it will accelerate really well even at low RPM. However, when it gets warmer (after 2-3 miles of riding) it will be really slow when first accelerating, but at higher rpm, it rides well (although not perfect). What I mean, is that when stopping and then giving it full gas, it does not want to go until about 10mph, when it hits the powerband and it starts accelerating, but, it doesn't over-rev, it just doesn't accelerate. The engine runs smooth and I've cleaned and check the carb so I'm pretty sure that's not the problem. I think that when I ride it, the clutch gets warmer and starts slipping. I checked the clutch drum bell today and it has turned blue/purple and also the clutch shoes seem to have gone orange and are quite worn. There's also a lot of black residue on the side of the case. Also, when I ride for a bit then stop, there's a burning smell - like burnt rubber or clutch. I'm pretty sure its the clutch, but I don't know which part of it exactly and the fact that it doesn't rev out when giving it gas makes me think it isn't the clutch. What do you think? Thanks, any help is appreciated!
The discoloration on the clutch is telling you it's been hot. One major reason for excess heat in a CVT is slipping from clutch parts or the belt. As you accelerate and the gearing in the CVT changes, the rear pulley will spin much faster and the clutch will have more chance of engaging so that may be why you see the problem go away as you speed up. I would advise watching the video and going over the whole CVT at this point.
Thanks for this Video, now I know how to reassemble my CVT Components on my 87 Honda Helix. I just need to purchase an electric impact wrench, along with the right sized sockets.
Hey bud, is there a need to you lube the ( interior) of the drive boss upon re assembly. I am tearing mine back apart today, and just wanted to clarify. Thank you : )
I have a 50cc Gy6 and the CVT has a bushing on the case cover that is supposed to support the bendix. I had done some vatiator tuning that made electric starting non-operational and discovered the bendix to be the issue. After changing two bendix gears, replacing the bushings on both sides as well, I found there to be a spacing issue causing the bendix to be "pinched" when closing the case. I tried different combinations of loosened and tightened bolts on the cover and found that in order for the bendix to operate enough to start I would have to loosen all of the cover bolts. After riding a short distance (perhaps 2- 2.5 miles round trip) I found that standard riding conditions would rattle the bolts loose and the cover may come off entirely. To adjust I put some washers between the case cover and the mounted portion of the CVT and ran the same bolts through them, allowing me to tighten them enough into place. Because I didn't have washers between all of them, I cracked a small portion of the cover completely off by over tightening one of the bolts. Man I wish I had recorded all of it for you and the world to see. I noticed on your bendix in this video there is a retainer of some sort. Is that a stock piece for this engine? Can you please cover bendix issues? Thank you so much for all of your videos. You have the best way of explaining with detail some of the more complex issues and anyone with a moped should subscribe.
That's the stock setup on this engine. Another thing that can cause you grief with the 139QMB bendix is that they aren't all the same length. You may buy a replacement and suddenly have trouble, because as you've seen the spacing/length matters a lot with that kind of starter bendix.
thanks for the advise. I took the cover off saw that the part that the starter ingages and comes out and turn the sprocket was not very well lubed I removed it and greased it slightly also greased both ends of it put it back together and it starts first time every time Go Figure, its such and easy scooter to work on
Well it was running fine til other day I was at 45mph and it backfired and bogged all way down. Now it will only let me give it little throttle go up to 10mph any more throttle and it cuts off. It idles perfect. Thank u for your response
I use 788 17 28 Bando belts. Others seem to like the Mitsuboshi 792 16.6, but I'm not sure where to find them. Stage6 makes a 797 17 28 I believe. Whatever you do, just don't buy the no-name Chinese stuff that's really cheap or you'll probably end up buying another belt before long.
Thanks I know how to repair a scooter now,take that you Capitalist.Also I never use adblock,unlike most of your free loading viewers.I also didn't press the skip ad button.
i have just bought a yamaha aerox and when i set of the clutch seems to need lots of revs to engage, how can i make the clutch engage at lower revs? Also how can i improve acceleration?
The little A shape slider's always first to go sounds like gravel.. 4 gram rollers and less than 30 miles on a brand new front and rear variator CVT set up
Haters! That is ok though. It is a haters job to hate. The better you are doing at something the more haters you should have. The way i see it, he deserves at least a couple hundred haters! This guy is awesome!
OK I will do this before I ride next season, I made a video working on the CVT myself and I did not take apart the clutch assembly. I did sand the bell and the shoes though. It just seems like there is more vibration than I remember it does smooth out after a few minutes. Thank you again for the info and reply, is there a trick to greasing these parts or how much?
I get a little bit of vibration when I start off, I have taken my CVT apart on my Yamaha Majesty and inspected/greased etc, except the taking the clutch apart. Is this normal or should I inspect the clutch thoroughly? Thank you for your time
My CVT cover has a gasket but I did not see one on your Scooter CVT Transmission : Full Service Inspection video. How important is that gasket? Is it necessary?
This video is great! ....I'm having issues with my gy6 150cc. Have a Dr. Pulley hit clutch on it...motor and clutch have less than 100 miles. Recently it isn't idling at all...on a cold start it feels like the clutch is engaged...and the bike pulls a little then it dies a few seconds later...to ride I have to start it, throttle and go...if I get to a full stop it shuts off...and that's when I feel a lot of resistance.
excellent video. I have a 1984 Honda Areo 125. Its a very rare model. I have a problem with acceleration until I get up to about 22 mph. then it kicks in and you hear the motor open up and it gets up to about 48 mph. Between 0 and 22 it just is a dog. I have a second scooter the same kind and it gits it from the start. What do you think my issue is if you don't mind. Thanks Billy
23100-KFG-003 is the Honda part number. A Honda dealer should be able to get that. Google that number and you'll come up with some options that are likely cheaper.
im a fairly new owner of a 125cc scoot but for me its bettee to use an engine degreaser that has kerosene in it, since it wont destroy your seals and o-rings unlike brake cleaner and use high temperature grease in the torque drive bearings, ordinary grease will melt and evaporate when the torque drive gets really hot
I like kerosene as a cleaner these days as well. Belt manufacturers say no brake parts cleaner should be used. Likely an abundance of caution, but kerosene is also cheaper than brake parts cleaner so it's a win-win. Synthetic general purpose grease has worked well for me for years. Bel-Ray Assembly Lube was a favorite, but they discontinued it. Now Malossi and Polini have grease that works well too.
Well today when on a ride the clutch locked up. The wheel wouldnt turn free of the engine. Pulled the cover off, sure enough one of the rivets that holds the centrifugal clutch shoe to the hub had broken. Repaired the centrifugal clutch pack and voila! she is perfect again. Vibration is gone, all is well in scooter land!
A ridiculously in-depth step by step tutorial. They don't get better than this. Well done and thank you. I managed to do a full clutch service.
Awesome! My wife's scooter died, and it turned out to be the drive belt was completely toasted. It was a mess in there, but with this video, I was able to get in, take it all apart, clean things up and get her back on the road! Thanks for sharing!! Respect!
Thanks for taking the time to do this, theres no manual for my bike and this is better than a manual.
man i learned more in the past 30 mins of watching you than the whole 2 years ive had watching other mechanics working on my scooter. now i am fully confident that i can do these things myself
Thanks! Good luck with your endeavors in repair/maintenance/modifications!
Thanks for this. Brilliant advice, not just on how to take apart, which is what so many do, but explaining to the layman what you need to inspect, and not replace if not necessary, regardless of what the book says.
It's thanks to people like you that make in-depth videos like this full of knowledge that other peeps can fix their scoots. Thanks a bunch, man!
49ccScoot, could I ask a question regarding my scooter? Around 4 years ago I disassembled my Aprilia Sr 50 2000 Air Cooled scoot and left it like that. Around a month ago, I decided to rebuild the engine and hopefully bring it back to its glory days. I am assembling all the parts and watching as many YT vids as possible, but I only have a problem with the starter clutch behind the variator, more specifically, I just have no damn idea if I am supposed to have any washers behind the variator. I have so many parts from when I took my scooter apart that I am trying to figure out where everything goes. In this scooter, you didn't have anything separating the two parts. Would it be dangerous or problematic to the engine if I, say, didn't install anything in between that I was supposed to in the first place? Cheers, mate, your videos are a godsend! I'll let you know when I manage to finish.
Thank you so much for the speedy response. I figured out that it wasn't the fan giving me the grinding sound. I am about to take everything off to inspect. Thank you again. I'm sure I'll be frantically commenting with you very soon. LOL! :)
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video. Your work has gone a long way to help give me confidence in working on my scooter.
This is good for our customers to know about the servicing.
I used to tear apart my cheap 250cc Chinese scoot to replace variators, belts and inspect the clutch. I now own a Burgman 650. Man, I don't want to even think about the clutch/belt on it. I guess why I purchased the 5 year warranty. Good video for those who may be a little intimidated for doing their own work..
I've watched a few of you're videos now and they all have really clear and concise information on every part you're working with. Thanks for all the hard work you've put into them.
Thanks!
Best tutorial on CVTs on UA-cam.Very detailed and helpful.
great step by step video very well and clear explanation i dont understand why someone would give this video a thumbs down some people are just to stupid not appreciate a good honest instruction sorry for the french
Thanks!
Great simple well explained video to follow and understand, thx for your time!, its not my scooter but it helped me get through without any problems,
very informative. I enjoy how your videos are always formatted in a straightforward easy to understand manner as well. thanks for what you do!
Just started to work on a jog, your demo is brill and has covered all aspects of a service. Many thanks keep it up. Paul Allen
Thank you...I must have watched twenty videos..non made any sense..untill I watched yours I basically had to extrapolate what I thought . Your good at explaining things.....keep it up
Thank you! Glad I could help.
Thanks so much for posting this video! I have a 2007 Baja SC50 with the QJ1P39QMB-3 motor mated with the 1E40QMB Jog/Minarelli CVT that uses 2 stroke CVT parts that look like the ones in this video. The clutch and variator look just like the ones in this video but the CVT cover is different and unique on the Baja.
It is a big help to see a CVT that actually looks like mine being shown! It took me awhile to understand why videos showing typical Chinese scooter CVT's were using parts that didn't apply to my scooter. It was even more confusing as Baja also made another version of the SC50 in more recent years that was basically the same scooter as the TaoTao ATM50-A1 and Jonway YY50QT-6 which does use a typical Chinese CVT and has the more common 139QMB motor. QianJiang scooter who made the QJ Baja SC50 as a 4 stroke also makes a 2 stroke motor version that is rebranded and sold under various names.
For anyone finding this video and comment that has this Baja SC50 {Keeway Hurricane body style} with the QJ {QianJiang} anomaly engine and 1E40QMB Jog/Minarelli style CVT just remember that it is the variator with the 21mm inner slide bushing and 15 tooth spline that fits the Baja and the 15x12 rollers that fit the variator. I would assume the performance variators and clutch assemblies and springs for the Jog/Minarelli CVT's will work on the Baja too. You can get the stock variator parts and rear clutch assembly and springs here www.scrappydogscooters.com/50CC_2-STROKE_PARTS.html and the hard to find 836-17-30 CVT belt here www.scrappydogscooters.com/Replacement_Parts.html
I'm not trying to promote their parts on your video and you can find these parts other places like ebay but anyone with this QJ Baja SC50 will have a hard time finding these parts especially the CVT Belt until they realize it uses the 1E40QMB Jog/Minarelli CVT parts so I'm just trying to help anyone with this scooter. One other thing the engine on the QJ Baja is slightly different but any big bore kit up to 72cc with the 47mm or smaller piston should work. The 80cc big bore kit being called 100cc by many sellers with the 50mm piston won't fit this Baja without enlarging the opening on the case. Also remember the variator rollers that come with some big bore kits are 16x13 and won't fit as the Baja uses the 15x12. The CVT gaskets that come with the kits won't work either. Shared this video to my facebook page Moped and Scooter Lovers too.
facebook.com/mopedscooterlovers
+photonrayswaves Good info. They are oddball engines. I'm not sure why they thought it was a good idea. They don't seem to perform much different than the typical 139QMB that's easier/less confusing to get parts for.
best video ive seen about cvt services
Good little tutorial. I've watched three so far and none have done as good a job as you.
Very comprehensive video. This video ought to be linked by the manufacturers as a service operation or along with their service literature or something.
Thank you for your videos. Having spent a little fortune to have someone change the belt after it snapped. You have give me the confidence to DIY it next time. I'm even planning to order a high-speed pulley. :)
Nice! Good luck with it. If you have any trouble, you know where I am here or you can get help from a whole group of us on the 49ccScoot forum.
Great video. No BS. Just incredibly useful and detailed images and explain. Thanks.
Ok i will definetly give this a try, lots of great suggestions and ideas here i will keep you posted on how well things work out from what you told me to do,thanks a lot you are the man,peace.
Man what a detailed video. This thing is like a school.
One of the best around easy to follow
3 days from buying a SCOOTER It fails. Brilliant video on what to expect in the transmission. Sorted problem - broke the sheave plate but new one on order. Will put together for the weekend. Thanks.
First class post! Covering every detail, I'm going to attempt this for the first time on my Aprilla mojito 125 cc in the next few days. This video will be right by my side. Excellent tuition, will let you know how I get on.
I usually put grease in the grooves where the pins ride and a thin coat on the torque driver in the area between the seals.
Thank you for this video. It helped me service my cvt that has been troubling for a long time
Glad I could help!
thanks for taking the time to make this video! awesome!
Thanks for taking the time to watch it!
I ditch the gasket most of the time, because there's nothing that needs to be sealed in or out for regular use. Sometimes starter setups will be picky with just the small amount that the spacing is off without the gasket though. One thing you can try to keep the gasket in good shape and so you don't have to mess with it is to apply a spray on gasket adhesive to 1 side. Use a thin film of grease on the other. It should stick to the case or cover but let the cover be removed easily.
thank you for the knowledge you give. mine a novice at auto was greatly helped by the knowledge that you provide.
ini cara memperbaiki cvt motor matik
Thanks for the walk around! Love your builds!
Ha...Ha...that is the best discription i have ever seen on YT. Verry good job, greetz from Germany.
Nice job, I've used a HF oil filter wrench to hold the variator in place on my 4 strokes.
They have one that locks like vice grips too.
Great
Finally got my minarelli vertical ac working
Thank you
The best video on UA-cam
what a great video mate! just the info I was looking for. thanks for posting. legend.
You should be able to see if there's a major problem with the clutch since it's apart. If you don't see any damage, nothing is loose, etc... the problem may be elsewhere. For the knocking, internal knock could be a sign of serious issues or could be something very minor. Rotate the engine with the variator off to start isolating the noise. Check the stator side as well.
I think your variator should have 2 holes int he front where you can put something to lock it. The tool is shown in the vid, but you can make one with 2 metal bars and a couple of bolts that will fit into the holes, plus nuts to secure the bolts to the rods. You could also use a strap wrench to try and hold the flywheel on the other side while removing the vari nut. An impact and sockets are good investments though. Those will help with a lot of jobs.
Ok Vert I think you are right on the mark I will give it a check and keep you posted how it works out,thanks,peaceout
most informative one I have found on UA-cam.
Superb informative vid. I followed this and put my malossi variator & spring no probs.
Saved me money - thanks
Good video no no BS yackety yack just the stuff you want to know!
I love it!,👍❤️
I learned a lot in this video.thanks u sir its very clear to me how u explain how to do service your own scooter.
Definitely pop the cover and check the belt. I've had belts go just like that with no crazy noises. I put a link to a vid of it happening with a pic of the destroyed belt in the description.
I have a gokart with a gy6 clone and its lugs off the start is this a cvt problem i dont get any rpms till bout 10 15 mph then accelerates great.
@@derekmaxwell8164 Most likely clutch/CVT. Check the whole thing, but pay close attention to the clutch because it's the biggest factor for initial takeoff.
THANKS!
For ALL of your insight, wisdom, tuts, and vids, Brent!!!!!!!!
***** Hi, I have a problem with my Yamaha Aerox 100 2 stroke. When it is cold, it will accelerate really well even at low RPM. However, when it gets warmer (after 2-3 miles of riding) it will be really slow when first accelerating, but at higher rpm, it rides well (although not perfect). What I mean, is that when stopping and then giving it full gas, it does not want to go until about 10mph, when it hits the powerband and it starts accelerating, but, it doesn't over-rev, it just doesn't accelerate. The engine runs smooth and I've cleaned and check the carb so I'm pretty sure that's not the problem.
I think that when I ride it, the clutch gets warmer and starts slipping. I checked the clutch drum bell today and it has turned blue/purple and also the clutch shoes seem to have gone orange and are quite worn. There's also a lot of black residue on the side of the case.
Also, when I ride for a bit then stop, there's a burning smell - like burnt rubber or clutch.
I'm pretty sure its the clutch, but I don't know which part of it exactly and the fact that it doesn't rev out when giving it gas makes me think it isn't the clutch.
What do you think?
Thanks, any help is appreciated!
The discoloration on the clutch is telling you it's been hot. One major reason for excess heat in a CVT is slipping from clutch parts or the belt. As you accelerate and the gearing in the CVT changes, the rear pulley will spin much faster and the clutch will have more chance of engaging so that may be why you see the problem go away as you speed up. I would advise watching the video and going over the whole CVT at this point.
***** Thanks, a lot. I will try and check out the CVT tomorrow and I'll let you know more. Thanks again for the helpful information!
Thanks for this Video, now I know how to reassemble my CVT Components on my 87 Honda Helix. I just need to purchase an electric impact wrench, along with the right sized sockets.
Amazing video!!!! explains in a good manner how "the whole thing" works :)
Good video man... Reminds me of "MMM-HIM... LIKE THE WAY YOU TALK" THANKS FOR SHARING... GOD BLESS
You make great videos! Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge : )
Thank you!
Hey bud, is there a need to you lube the ( interior) of the drive boss upon re assembly. I am tearing mine back apart today, and just wanted to clarify. Thank you : )
Brilliant guide, well explained you really know your stuff!!
I have a 50cc Gy6 and the CVT has a bushing on the case cover that is supposed to support the bendix. I had done some vatiator tuning that made electric starting non-operational and discovered the bendix to be the issue. After changing two bendix gears, replacing the bushings on both sides as well, I found there to be a spacing issue causing the bendix to be "pinched" when closing the case. I tried different combinations of loosened and tightened bolts on the cover and found that in order for the bendix to operate enough to start I would have to loosen all of the cover bolts. After riding a short distance (perhaps 2- 2.5 miles round trip) I found that standard riding conditions would rattle the bolts loose and the cover may come off entirely. To adjust I put some washers between the case cover and the mounted portion of the CVT and ran the same bolts through them, allowing me to tighten them enough into place. Because I didn't have washers between all of them, I cracked a small portion of the cover completely off by over tightening one of the bolts. Man I wish I had recorded all of it for you and the world to see. I noticed on your bendix in this video there is a retainer of some sort. Is that a stock piece for this engine? Can you please cover bendix issues? Thank you so much for all of your videos. You have the best way of explaining with detail some of the more complex issues and anyone with a moped should subscribe.
That's the stock setup on this engine. Another thing that can cause you grief with the 139QMB bendix is that they aren't all the same length. You may buy a replacement and suddenly have trouble, because as you've seen the spacing/length matters a lot with that kind of starter bendix.
Nicely done. A lot of good information here.
Thanks.
thanks for the advise. I took the cover off saw that the part that the starter ingages and comes out and turn the sprocket was not very well lubed I removed it and greased it slightly also greased both ends of it put it back together and it starts first time every time Go Figure, its such and easy scooter to work on
Well it was running fine til other day I was at 45mph and it backfired and bogged all way down. Now it will only let me give it little throttle go up to 10mph any more throttle and it cuts off. It idles perfect. Thank u for your response
Very, very thorough and very helpful.
Lol 😂 god bless you i watch you from long time be safe and stay home
It is a wonderful, detailed explanation, my friend. excellant. Thanks
I use 788 17 28 Bando belts. Others seem to like the Mitsuboshi 792 16.6, but I'm not sure where to find them. Stage6 makes a 797 17 28 I believe. Whatever you do, just don't buy the no-name Chinese stuff that's really cheap or you'll probably end up buying another belt before long.
Awesome explanation dude! Thanks a lot it realy helped understanding more how the transmission works!
Thanks. Glad it helped!
A perfect video just what I was looking for thank you.
awesome video from start to finish
Well that's not too bad then. Didn't think they could go that long. I think I'll put on a new one and keep the other for a spare then. Thanks
Thanks I know how to repair a scooter now,take that you Capitalist.Also I never use adblock,unlike most of your free loading viewers.I also didn't press the skip ad button.
Answered a couple of questions I had, Very helpful thank you..
Your such a amazing instructor!!!
Thank you!
this helped me alot. Thanks :) And the best video iv seen on youtube.
i have just bought a yamaha aerox and when i set of the clutch seems to need lots of revs to engage, how can i make the clutch engage at lower revs? Also how can i improve acceleration?
The little A shape slider's always first to go sounds like gravel.. 4 gram rollers and less than 30 miles on a brand new front and rear variator CVT set up
Thank you for the great explanation!
P.S. Why would anyone give a thumbs down to such a video? 21 morons.
Maybe a few cc`s missing upstairs?
+Arthur Bradley ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
+Mouse Mystery cool.
Haters! That is ok though. It is a haters job to hate. The better you are doing at something the more haters you should have. The way i see it, he deserves at least a couple hundred haters! This guy is awesome!
its 41 now
OK I will do this before I ride next season, I made a video working on the CVT myself and I did not take apart the clutch assembly. I did sand the bell and the shoes though. It just seems like there is more vibration than I remember it does smooth out after a few minutes. Thank you again for the info and reply, is there a trick to greasing these parts or how much?
Thanks for sharing! Happy Thanksgiving
Thanks for watching and Happy Thanksgiving to you as well!
awesome bro!! thanks for taking your time and making the vid.
Great video very helpful thanks
I get a little bit of vibration when I start off, I have taken my CVT apart on my Yamaha Majesty and inspected/greased etc, except the taking the clutch apart. Is this normal or should I inspect the clutch thoroughly? Thank you for your time
Something may not be right in the variator. Roller(s) out of place maybe. Is the belt the same specs as the one it replaced?
Really useful and clear hope for more like this videos !!!! (just an idea for next topic changing head bearings maybe?)
My CVT cover has a gasket but I did not see one on your Scooter CVT Transmission : Full Service Inspection video. How important is that gasket? Is it necessary?
Man this was a good video
Thanks for the info you told me all I needed to know good video guy 👍🍻
This video is great! ....I'm having issues with my gy6 150cc. Have a Dr. Pulley hit clutch on it...motor and clutch have less than 100 miles. Recently it isn't idling at all...on a cold start it feels like the clutch is engaged...and the bike pulls a little then it dies a few seconds later...to ride I have to start it, throttle and go...if I get to a full stop it shuts off...and that's when I feel a lot of resistance.
excellent video. I have a 1984 Honda Areo 125. Its a very rare model. I have a problem with acceleration until I get up to about 22 mph. then it kicks in and you hear the motor open up and it gets up to about 48 mph. Between 0 and 22 it just is a dog. I have a second scooter the same kind and it gits it from the start. What do you think my issue is if you don't mind. Thanks Billy
Thanks! This video really helps me.
Thanks for the video. Very clear and you don't have stupid music playing in the background.
23100-KFG-003 is the Honda part number. A Honda dealer should be able to get that. Google that number and you'll come up with some options that are likely cheaper.
i enjoyed this video. Great job.
Thank you.
Also that restriction washer you mentioned.... if my Areo 125 has it could I take it out to increase my top speed without screwing anything up?
Great video. Its really helping me with my project... Thanks a lot!
fantastic video thank you very much for sharing
im a fairly new owner of a 125cc scoot but for me its bettee to use an engine degreaser that has kerosene in it, since it wont destroy your seals and o-rings unlike brake cleaner and use high temperature grease in the torque drive bearings, ordinary grease will melt and evaporate when the torque drive gets really hot
I like kerosene as a cleaner these days as well. Belt manufacturers say no brake parts cleaner should be used. Likely an abundance of caution, but kerosene is also cheaper than brake parts cleaner so it's a win-win. Synthetic general purpose grease has worked well for me for years. Bel-Ray Assembly Lube was a favorite, but they discontinued it. Now Malossi and Polini have grease that works well too.
You're the man, thanks for the vid.
thank you for this . really clear and informative .
Thanks. Glad if it's helpful!
Well today when on a ride the clutch locked up. The wheel wouldnt turn free of the engine. Pulled the cover off, sure enough one of the rivets that holds the centrifugal clutch shoe to the hub had broken. Repaired the centrifugal clutch pack and voila! she is perfect again. Vibration is gone, all is well in scooter land!
now it's so clear, thank you.
Awesome video. Thank you very very much! It is a great help.
Great video! I do have an old Suzuki cp 50 and the engine runs good but it will not increase speed/gear up... Any good solution?
affas First is to go over the CVT and see if it's just a maintenance issue.
in the service manual i have for 1e40qmb it says apply approx 1.5g of grease per roller ramp. i didn't do that, is that a major issue? thanks again
Fantástic video
GOD bless you