If you need Block detectors for your signals, or LEDs, I would love to help you out! I build block detectors and have been trying to exhibit them but I don't even have a garage like you to set up a stretch of track right now. These are current sensing detectors, so they need something on the rail, even if it's just an axle with a resistor on the gap. But a damp finger will trigger them. For buildings, I strongly recommend the Warm White LEDs because the light from them is identical to an incandescent bulb. Their brightness can be controlled with a resistor or a pot to adjust it. You don't want to illuminate the whole yard with the light from your yard office! The same goes for signals. Put a larger value resistor on your LEDs and tone them down to a brightness that's closer to real. If you can read the paint off your cars from across the room when you get a clear signal, your green lights are probably too bright. And now just a couple things on your cars that you exhibited. First of all, Great job! I would love to get to the point where I can try to accomplish the things you do. Those cars really look like the prototype of today's cars. One of the Plastic Pellets hoppers had a ChemTrec decal on it though. ChemTrec is for chemical spills, especially hazmat. But plastic pellets are inert and therefore not a hazard when spilled. At the plant they do make a big deal about spillage while unloading but I've seen the spillage so heavy in some places that you can't find any ballast or ties for all the plastic pellets. So the ChemTrec decal is out of place. If there's one on a prototype, they must have been trying to get rid of the sticker and slapped it on the first car they came to. The Sodium Chlorate cars should have yellow "1495" hazmat decals on them, should they not? I love the decals you use and I get the vibe that you don't normally miss an opportunity to put decals on a car. Maybe you hadn't got there yet. And as for the reporting marks on the ends, that's a matter of interchange more than anything. If they never interchange then they would not care about those. If however they were to interchange, that would be considered a defect and would prohibit them from making interchange according to the AAR rules. One of the cars I would love to see someone like you model is an old ACF 50-ft RBOX that went through some rehab in its life and changed numbers in the process. Somehow the end numbers washed off and the old numbers were merely patched. My little dinky railroad terminal accepted the car from interchange (not that we had a choice... CSX shoves them right into our yard most of the time) and now it was our problem to fix before we could return it. Looking at the end of the car, you would never be able to tell what the number was, but it looks like it might have been ABOX 14094 before it became RBOX 32768. Of course the other problem we had was while the distributor was unloading beer from Mexico out of one side, Taggers put their paint all over the reporting marks and decals on the other side. CSX being the wonderful partner in railroading that they are, cut the car out of 140+ something string of cars set out for interchange because of these defects... Yup, it's our problem now!
I always enjoy seeing your incredible weathering work. I have been following you for at least 10 years now and learned quite a bit. Keep on being Awesome man!
Hey, it's a pleasure to hear from you again, excellent progress on the layout, strange weathering tutorials, greetings from Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico.
Dan, I think it’s time you started a detail and weathering masterclass. Your work is next level. I’ll be at the show as well, on Saturday. So if I see you, I’ll stop and say hi. Hope you find your lamp posts. That show always has a ton of stuff, so it can be hard not to get carried away. I’ll bring some rolling stock if the decal people are there. They usually have some cool stuff, and they help apply decals on the spot. I believe they are called CMR. Anyway, enjoy the show!
I agree that specific technique videos are a good idea. Sometimes, you just want a quick reference on something. This kind of video often doesn't need to be long -- five minutes should be plenty for truck weathering, for example -- so they're quick to make and quick to watch. Remember to create the playlist straight away so you don't have to go back and caetgorize the videos later.
Thanks for the update Dan! I’d absolutely love some videos to go over the basics to build up on as well as practicing on styrene. I know you’ve covered most of it before but a small series with just the basics will be great and then keeping more sophisticated stuff for big videos.
As Always your Vids have 5⭐'s. One thing thats interesting on steel coil cars are the broken graffiti on the hoods. I wonder why these artists don't know that the hoods get switched out. You see those PS plastic pellet hoppers being repainted quite often nowadays. Hopefully we will see more new models this year especially plastic pellet hoppers.
Hi there Dan.I have been tacling some weathering lately & cant seem to get a really flat paint for the trucks/wheels.What paints do use on the trucks as they look really cool.? Oh my, those cars look so good. I have a long way to go, lol. Thanks for the video. Michael NZ
I would just like to reiterate the same thing everyone before me has already said. Fantastic work! Your videos are the benchmark for all my weathering. You've given me the confidence to start and to continue to weather my rolling stock
Excellent weathering Dan. The yard section of the layout looks really good with most of the ground cover work done. Hopefully you can get the small section of baseboard sorted out.
Great job on your weathering. I wanted to ask you a question regarding a patch. What do you think the proper rename of a Southern Pacific Hydro-Cushion PC&F B-100-40 should be? I cannot find anything of the sort online. I was thinking Northwestern Pacific, but not sure. If you can help, can you send me a link for a picture? Thanks, for your help.
The end reporting marks on AEX 242 must have faded over time. There are four photos of this car on RR Picture Archives (the latest from 2014), and three of them clearly show "AEX 242" stencilled on the B-end; the fourth one seems to show no end-mark on the A-end but it's not the clearest view.
Very excellent work! You, sir, are a master at what you do. 👍👍👍 Just one question, though. Have you considered modeling AEI tags on your rolling stock?
We’re in dark times for the 4750’s, sucks seeing all these cars rapidly disappearing.
You do incredible art with model railroad cars as your canvas, Dan. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Dan, I would never be able to make my cars look like that, im to affraid to scrap them
great job always fun to match
If you need Block detectors for your signals, or LEDs, I would love to help you out! I build block detectors and have been trying to exhibit them but I don't even have a garage like you to set up a stretch of track right now. These are current sensing detectors, so they need something on the rail, even if it's just an axle with a resistor on the gap. But a damp finger will trigger them. For buildings, I strongly recommend the Warm White LEDs because the light from them is identical to an incandescent bulb. Their brightness can be controlled with a resistor or a pot to adjust it. You don't want to illuminate the whole yard with the light from your yard office! The same goes for signals. Put a larger value resistor on your LEDs and tone them down to a brightness that's closer to real. If you can read the paint off your cars from across the room when you get a clear signal, your green lights are probably too bright.
And now just a couple things on your cars that you exhibited. First of all, Great job! I would love to get to the point where I can try to accomplish the things you do. Those cars really look like the prototype of today's cars. One of the Plastic Pellets hoppers had a ChemTrec decal on it though. ChemTrec is for chemical spills, especially hazmat. But plastic pellets are inert and therefore not a hazard when spilled. At the plant they do make a big deal about spillage while unloading but I've seen the spillage so heavy in some places that you can't find any ballast or ties for all the plastic pellets. So the ChemTrec decal is out of place. If there's one on a prototype, they must have been trying to get rid of the sticker and slapped it on the first car they came to.
The Sodium Chlorate cars should have yellow "1495" hazmat decals on them, should they not? I love the decals you use and I get the vibe that you don't normally miss an opportunity to put decals on a car. Maybe you hadn't got there yet.
And as for the reporting marks on the ends, that's a matter of interchange more than anything. If they never interchange then they would not care about those. If however they were to interchange, that would be considered a defect and would prohibit them from making interchange according to the AAR rules. One of the cars I would love to see someone like you model is an old ACF 50-ft RBOX that went through some rehab in its life and changed numbers in the process. Somehow the end numbers washed off and the old numbers were merely patched. My little dinky railroad terminal accepted the car from interchange (not that we had a choice... CSX shoves them right into our yard most of the time) and now it was our problem to fix before we could return it. Looking at the end of the car, you would never be able to tell what the number was, but it looks like it might have been ABOX 14094 before it became RBOX 32768. Of course the other problem we had was while the distributor was unloading beer from Mexico out of one side, Taggers put their paint all over the reporting marks and decals on the other side. CSX being the wonderful partner in railroading that they are, cut the car out of 140+ something string of cars set out for interchange because of these defects... Yup, it's our problem now!
I always enjoy seeing your incredible weathering work. I have been following you for at least 10 years now and learned quite a bit. Keep on being Awesome man!
Ghost in the machine. Great album!
Hey, it's a pleasure to hear from you again, excellent progress on the layout, strange weathering tutorials, greetings from Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico.
Dan, I think it’s time you started a detail and weathering masterclass. Your work is next level. I’ll be at the show as well, on Saturday. So if I see you, I’ll stop and say hi. Hope you find your lamp posts. That show always has a ton of stuff, so it can be hard not to get carried away. I’ll bring some rolling stock if the decal people are there. They usually have some cool stuff, and they help apply decals on the spot. I believe they are called CMR. Anyway, enjoy the show!
I agree that specific technique videos are a good idea. Sometimes, you just want a quick reference on something. This kind of video often doesn't need to be long -- five minutes should be plenty for truck weathering, for example -- so they're quick to make and quick to watch. Remember to create the playlist straight away so you don't have to go back and caetgorize the videos later.
Thanks for the update Dan!
I’d absolutely love some videos to go over the basics to build up on as well as practicing on styrene. I know you’ve covered most of it before but a small series with just the basics will be great and then keeping more sophisticated stuff for big videos.
As Always your Vids have 5⭐'s. One thing thats interesting on steel coil cars are the broken graffiti on the hoods. I wonder why these artists don't know that the hoods get switched out. You see those PS plastic pellet hoppers being repainted quite often nowadays. Hopefully we will see more new models this year especially plastic pellet hoppers.
You should start up your own line of train cars that come factory weathered. Your stuff is awesome. Thanks for these awesome videos.
Love the blue ADM hopper! Had those at an AgWay plant behind my house growing up in the 80s and 90s. Cool shirt too! Stewart Copeland fan?
Very talented modeler...look forward to watching your other video's
At the Ethanol plant when we get rail cars there are quite a few cars that come in with no end reporting marks
If possible can you please make a how to weather a coal car have a lot that I need to weather
Hi there Dan.I have been tacling some weathering lately & cant seem to get a really flat paint for the trucks/wheels.What paints do use on the trucks as they look really cool.? Oh my, those cars look so good. I have a long way to go, lol. Thanks for the video. Michael NZ
SIMPLY THE BEST… KEEP THEM COMING MY GEE. 👍🏿 I LEARN ALOT FROM YOU CUZZ.
I would just like to reiterate the same thing everyone before me has already said. Fantastic work! Your videos are the benchmark for all my weathering. You've given me the confidence to start and to continue to weather my rolling stock
Great update and excellent weathering.
Excellent weathering Dan. The yard section of the layout looks really good with most of the ground cover work done. Hopefully you can get the small section of baseboard sorted out.
Great job on your weathering. I wanted to ask you a question regarding a patch. What do you think the proper rename of a Southern Pacific Hydro-Cushion PC&F B-100-40 should be? I cannot find anything of the sort online. I was thinking Northwestern Pacific, but not sure. If you can help, can you send me a link for a picture? Thanks, for your help.
Looking awesome dan I love do my cars someday my units your awesome guy buddy
The end reporting marks on AEX 242 must have faded over time. There are four photos of this car on RR Picture Archives (the latest from 2014), and three of them clearly show "AEX 242" stencilled on the B-end; the fourth one seems to show no end-mark on the A-end but it's not the clearest view.
Great work on the models and layout.
Really impressive weathering! Thanks for sharing.
Vintage Police. Sweet!
hello Dans Railroad2011 & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Dansrailroad2011 Thanks Friends Randy
Awesome work. I love AEX 242, great job
Good update Dan. Thank you for posting :)
Nice update Dan! Loving the new rolling stock! You have awesome talent! Question who makes those low profile switches and where did you get them from?
Those are scratchbuilt. I'm not sure who makes decent low stands these days.
You should do SSW 73540 Or better known as OOTTEN BEET
Very excellent work! You, sir, are a master at what you do. 👍👍👍
Just one question, though. Have you considered modeling AEI tags on your rolling stock?
Do you have any racks cars