Doing a fantastic job. If I may make a suggestion, this will add to the cost but "a little spending up front saves more spending later". From a corrosion preventative stand point, prime any drilled holes and countersinks, seal mating services and primer and Alodine is your friend in the areas that will never see the light of day but I promise you water will find its way in. Sealing, priming and Alodine can also drastically slow the galvanic and filiform corrosion potential as well. For double flush rivets, a microshaver is used. Use the standard one and half times the river diameter rule to form a shop head, smash it down haha just don't crack the rivet then come back and hit them with a microshave. Keep up the great work.
That is good advice! I was thinking the same thing; I purchased an Alodine pen for countersunk holes that don't have any primer. I like it because it doesn't change the dimension of countersunk holes.
Doing a great job with the videos. It's great that you're sharing so much detail as I'm waiting on my -10 emp kit hopefully arriving late summer. Would love to see in a future video the priming process you're doing as I'm considering the same paint. Keep up the great work!
I'll probably do a primer video this summer. I was frustrated with the fact that nobody seems to do them but it's actually not that bad... If you like tinkering with things, you will love building an airplane!
there are many different types of tabs - servo, antiservo, balance, trim tabs. Can you explain how your rudder tab is going to work? What happened to tab angle when you push pedals? What happened to rudder angle when trim tab moves left/right?
The tab angle is set by a servo motor. It basically will push the rudder in one direction or the other without any control input. The elevators also have trim tabs (the RV10 comes with those - pretty much every airplane has elevator trim tabs). The aileron trim for the RV10 uses a spring rather than a trim tabs to allow the roll to be trimmed (this is an option offered by Vans).
Rudder trim isn't really needed in the RV-10. A yaw dampener on the autopilot is another option that can accomplish ball-centered trim in cruise and more. You're obviously (since you said so) aware that adding a trim tab/system will alter the flutter characteristics of the control surface in some manner, often in mysterious and unexpected ways.
My understanding is that the yaw damper isn’t the best option for the constant input that trim functionality requires. That said, the trim tab is something that bugs me. My implementation is different from most other builders in that (and among other things) the servo is a little farther out from the axis of rudder rotation since I’m placing the tab on the bottom. So the change to the moment of inertia will be more pronounced than those that put a trim tab higher on the rudder (which results in the servo being closer to the axis of rudder rotation). While I can easily take this trim tab off, I’m thinking of making a second rudder…
@@buildingthe10 Yeah, I hear ya. What I can tell you after flying a lot of RV-10s is that for constant input, a very small trim wedge affixed to the rudder to center the ball in cruise is a lightweight, simple, and common method (and you apply it after you fly it, only when needed). And that's really all that's needed. It's hardly noticeable and doesn't protrude past the trailing edge of the rudder, and has essentially zero impact on balance/weight/dynamics. I have flown several with yaw dampeners (not to replace the wedge, but to augment) and they work very well. That said, this is experimental aviation after all - and one of the great things we get to do is design and experiment!
I used a Ray Allen trim motor, if that’s what you’re asking…. It has a different throw than some of the ones that came with the kit for elevators, I believe.
Doing a fantastic job. If I may make a suggestion, this will add to the cost but "a little spending up front saves more spending later". From a corrosion preventative stand point, prime any drilled holes and countersinks, seal mating services and primer and Alodine is your friend in the areas that will never see the light of day but I promise you water will find its way in. Sealing, priming and Alodine can also drastically slow the galvanic and filiform corrosion potential as well. For double flush rivets, a microshaver is used. Use the standard one and half times the river diameter rule to form a shop head, smash it down haha just don't crack the rivet then come back and hit them with a microshave. Keep up the great work.
That is good advice! I was thinking the same thing; I purchased an Alodine pen for countersunk holes that don't have any primer. I like it because it doesn't change the dimension of countersunk holes.
Doing a great job with the videos. It's great that you're sharing so much detail as I'm waiting on my -10 emp kit hopefully arriving late summer. Would love to see in a future video the priming process you're doing as I'm considering the same paint. Keep up the great work!
I'll probably do a primer video this summer. I was frustrated with the fact that nobody seems to do them but it's actually not that bad... If you like tinkering with things, you will love building an airplane!
So much knowledge
I'll be able to help when Matt decides to build one. You're welcome.
Help is always helpful.
there are many different types of tabs - servo, antiservo, balance, trim tabs. Can you explain how your rudder tab is going to work? What happened to tab angle when you push pedals?
What happened to rudder angle when trim tab moves left/right?
The tab angle is set by a servo motor. It basically will push the rudder in one direction or the other without any control input. The elevators also have trim tabs (the RV10 comes with those - pretty much every airplane has elevator trim tabs). The aileron trim for the RV10 uses a spring rather than a trim tabs to allow the roll to be trimmed (this is an option offered by Vans).
Rudder trim isn't really needed in the RV-10. A yaw dampener on the autopilot is another option that can accomplish ball-centered trim in cruise and more. You're obviously (since you said so) aware that adding a trim tab/system will alter the flutter characteristics of the control surface in some manner, often in mysterious and unexpected ways.
My understanding is that the yaw damper isn’t the best option for the constant input that trim functionality requires. That said, the trim tab is something that bugs me. My implementation is different from most other builders in that (and among other things) the servo is a little farther out from the axis of rudder rotation since I’m placing the tab on the bottom. So the change to the moment of inertia will be more pronounced than those that put a trim tab higher on the rudder (which results in the servo being closer to the axis of rudder rotation). While I can easily take this trim tab off, I’m thinking of making a second rudder…
@@buildingthe10 Yeah, I hear ya. What I can tell you after flying a lot of RV-10s is that for constant input, a very small trim wedge affixed to the rudder to center the ball in cruise is a lightweight, simple, and common method (and you apply it after you fly it, only when needed). And that's really all that's needed. It's hardly noticeable and doesn't protrude past the trailing edge of the rudder, and has essentially zero impact on balance/weight/dynamics. I have flown several with yaw dampeners (not to replace the wedge, but to augment) and they work very well. That said, this is experimental aviation after all - and one of the great things we get to do is design and experiment!
Lol, apparently we are also free to change the rudder such that the vertical stabilizer can rip itself off of the plane!
🔥🔥
Thinking off doing this on a Murphy Moose I’m building. Which trim component did you buy/use, was it Vans to match aileron and elev?
I used a Ray Allen trim motor, if that’s what you’re asking…. It has a different throw than some of the ones that came with the kit for elevators, I believe.
Ok thanks