I'm still at it, but didn't do much this summer. I'm about to drop a few more videos and resume building, though! Are you planning on building an RV10 as well?
Fantastic video! You did a great job with camera positions and editing - not to mention content. Can you tell me where you got that nutplate alternative for the sending units as well as the fuel return fitting? Thanks again for sharing this video!
Love the videos - we’re also building a -10 with ER tanks. Where did you get the rivet squeezer in the video? Looks much smaller and lighter weight than what we are using
It’s a Numatx squeezer. It’s operated via a foot pedal (which frees up your hands) and is small and easy to maneuver. It also has constant force through them length of throw, so the only thing you have to adjust between 3/32 and 1/8 rivets is the pressure.
Helpful! Came across this and am going to call Cies tomorrow. My senders for my 10 are also showing a lower number at the highest point, so I want to check if you can reverse the signal in the Garmin G3X or do I need to sway the L & R like you did. I am going to proseal mine, my expectation is to never have to get in there... I know, optimistic. I hear the rubber gaskets crack with the aviation fuels easily.
They told me to reverse mine. I’d definitely connect the two (if you have outboard ones) and test before you proseal anything. I think the gaskets are pretty robust. I cant imagine having to remove one if I prosealed it, but that’s what most builders seem to do…
Thanks for the video! You are quickly becoming my favourite RV-10 builder content creator. I talked with Ken last week before ordering a Sky Designs ER tank kit because I had some concern on the limitations of his suggestions for the pilot handbook. After talking and telling him my concerns, he realized that there was indeed an error in it and he is currently working at updating his engineering report. Expect a new revision soon. One suggestion though, it would be nice if you could include in the description the part numbers or name of items you are using. A link to the CiES unit, nutplate and that fuel return valve would be pretty useful. Keep on building those suckers!!
Thanks! I added a link to the vendor that sold the nutrings (www.airpowerinc.com/1716008-1) and I contacted Cies directly for their RV10-specific senders. The two outboard senders were interchangeable, but the inboard senders are specific to the left and right sides. In the case of these senders, they were either mislabeled or Vans had switched up their fastener holes, so I ended up switching them. That is, the sender labeled "left" is actually on the right tank.
@buildingthe10 Great video. I am building an RV14 and really like the nutring and adding a return line for future use. I see that you posted the links. I will definitely order the same, thanks
Hi Brett. What type of butt splice connectors did you use for the CiES fuel sender 2 into 1 (slave to master) wires to splice them together before going into the Deutsch connector?
I used solder sleeves for the power and ground 2 to 1. The signal line out from the outboard sender connects to a line in wire on the inboard sender. The outboard sender has three wires: power, ground, signal. The inboard sender has four wires: power, ground, signal in (from outboard sender) and signal out. Does this make any sense? I don’t think I am explaining very well…. I can send you pics if you’d like.
@@buildingthe10 Pictures would be great! I'm also curious how you attached the ground wires from the senders to the airframe. It looks like you used a pulled rivet to connect the ring terminal to the bracket you fabricated. That seems more secure than a screw/bolt. Very nice work - and thank you for taking the time to reply. You have been super helpful to me in my build! -Brian (bertschb@geeemaledotcom)
They are held in place by tank sealant. Of course, with the senders installed, they are also held in place by screws. They were also held in place with screws when the sealant was curing…
@@bertschbnot at all. For the first one, I put WD40 to prevent sticking and I cleaned sealant out after I put the screws in (put them all in, removed each one at a time, and cleaned the threads). I think this was a complete waste of time. By the time I put the last one in, I didn’t do anything. A little bit of sealant does get in but, if anything, it can help lock the screw in place (though I did take them out to put the senders in). I also used lock washers which probably aren’t necessary but so what.
@@SomeFineFella That's good to know! Have you had a chance to test for leaks around the CiES gaskets? I REALLY don't want to Proseal the senders in if I can avoid it.
@@bertschboops, replied with my other account last time…. I am behind on making videos. Yes, I’ve tested for leaks using water and soap. I’ve also pressurized the tanks with balloons on the vent line and the balloons maintained their size for about 8 weeks (then I popped them). I don’t think I have any leaks…. The CiES gaskets work great. I have no idea as to how tank sealant could be better. I think that some have used cork gaskets in the past and maybe those have problems over time? I don’t know. Shoot, maybe these will deteriorate over time, but I doubt it and I’d much rather have the option to take them on and off easily. Of course, the hope is to never have to take them off…. But still.
Tell me you are still chugging on with this endeavor. I’m living vicariously through you until next spring 😅 Love the videos and dry humor!
I'm still at it, but didn't do much this summer. I'm about to drop a few more videos and resume building, though! Are you planning on building an RV10 as well?
That is my goal. From what I’ve discovered, this will be an all cash endeavor, so trying to plan accordingly. Praying for your son.
@@sWordwielder83 I'm also going for cash only, currently saving for engine, prop, and avionics. That's the expensive stuff...
Hi! I am also building the 10 using the ER tanks. Where did you get those nutrings? Thanks
From here: www.airpowerinc.com/1716008-1
I think they’re awesome, should be standard, no reason not to use them.
Fantastic video! You did a great job with camera positions and editing - not to mention content. Can you tell me where you got that nutplate alternative for the sending units as well as the fuel return fitting? Thanks again for sharing this video!
Here's the link to where I got the nutrings: www.airpowerinc.com/1716008-1
Oh yes, and the fuel return line fitting is here: www.flyefii.com/products/accessories/fuel-tank-bung/
@@buildingthe10 Thanks! I've never seen these nut rings before. Looks like a great idea.
I have this setup. 4 CIES. Accurate reading from top to bottom, you will be happy with the result.
That’s good to hear and what I want. I still choke a little when I think about how much they cost!
Love the videos - we’re also building a -10 with ER tanks. Where did you get the rivet squeezer in the video? Looks much smaller and lighter weight than what we are using
It’s a Numatx squeezer. It’s operated via a foot pedal (which frees up your hands) and is small and easy to maneuver. It also has constant force through them length of throw, so the only thing you have to adjust between 3/32 and 1/8 rivets is the pressure.
Helpful! Came across this and am going to call Cies tomorrow. My senders for my 10 are also showing a lower number at the highest point, so I want to check if you can reverse the signal in the Garmin G3X or do I need to sway the L & R like you did. I am going to proseal mine, my expectation is to never have to get in there... I know, optimistic. I hear the rubber gaskets crack with the aviation fuels easily.
They told me to reverse mine. I’d definitely connect the two (if you have outboard ones) and test before you proseal anything. I think the gaskets are pretty robust. I cant imagine having to remove one if I prosealed it, but that’s what most builders seem to do…
Thanks for the video! You are quickly becoming my favourite RV-10 builder content creator. I talked with Ken last week before ordering a Sky Designs ER tank kit because I had some concern on the limitations of his suggestions for the pilot handbook. After talking and telling him my concerns, he realized that there was indeed an error in it and he is currently working at updating his engineering report. Expect a new revision soon.
One suggestion though, it would be nice if you could include in the description the part numbers or name of items you are using. A link to the CiES unit, nutplate and that fuel return valve would be pretty useful.
Keep on building those suckers!!
Thanks! I added a link to the vendor that sold the nutrings (www.airpowerinc.com/1716008-1) and I contacted Cies directly for their RV10-specific senders. The two outboard senders were interchangeable, but the inboard senders are specific to the left and right sides. In the case of these senders, they were either mislabeled or Vans had switched up their fastener holes, so I ended up switching them. That is, the sender labeled "left" is actually on the right tank.
@buildingthe10 Great video. I am building an RV14 and really like the nutring and adding a return line for future use. I see that you posted the links. I will definitely order the same, thanks
@buildingthe10 did the Cessna nutring that you have listed have the same hole pattern as the the Vans or need to be adapted. Thanks
@@acpilot320it had the same hole pattern but the holes had to be enlarged. Specifically, the nutring is secured with 5/8 10-24 hex screws.
Hi Brett. What type of butt splice connectors did you use for the CiES fuel sender 2 into 1 (slave to master) wires to splice them together before going into the Deutsch connector?
I used solder sleeves for the power and ground 2 to 1. The signal line out from the outboard sender connects to a line in wire on the inboard sender. The outboard sender has three wires: power, ground, signal. The inboard sender has four wires: power, ground, signal in (from outboard sender) and signal out. Does this make any sense? I don’t think I am explaining very well…. I can send you pics if you’d like.
@@buildingthe10 Pictures would be great! I'm also curious how you attached the ground wires from the senders to the airframe. It looks like you used a pulled rivet to connect the ring terminal to the bracket you fabricated. That seems more secure than a screw/bolt. Very nice work - and thank you for taking the time to reply. You have been super helpful to me in my build! -Brian (bertschb@geeemaledotcom)
I just sent you an email, let me know if you don't get it...
Are those nut rings just glued on with the tank sealant? Or did you attach them somehow with a couple of small 426 rivets?
They are held in place by tank sealant. Of course, with the senders installed, they are also held in place by screws. They were also held in place with screws when the sealant was curing…
@@buildingthe10 While installing the nutrings, did you have any trouble removing the screws from them once the sealant cured?
@@bertschbnot at all. For the first one, I put WD40 to prevent sticking and I cleaned sealant out after I put the screws in (put them all in, removed each one at a time, and cleaned the threads). I think this was a complete waste of time. By the time I put the last one in, I didn’t do anything. A little bit of sealant does get in but, if anything, it can help lock the screw in place (though I did take them out to put the senders in). I also used lock washers which probably aren’t necessary but so what.
@@SomeFineFella That's good to know! Have you had a chance to test for leaks around the CiES gaskets? I REALLY don't want to Proseal the senders in if I can avoid it.
@@bertschboops, replied with my other account last time…. I am behind on making videos. Yes, I’ve tested for leaks using water and soap. I’ve also pressurized the tanks with balloons on the vent line and the balloons maintained their size for about 8 weeks (then I popped them). I don’t think I have any leaks…. The CiES gaskets work great. I have no idea as to how tank sealant could be better. I think that some have used cork gaskets in the past and maybe those have problems over time? I don’t know. Shoot, maybe these will deteriorate over time, but I doubt it and I’d much rather have the option to take them on and off easily. Of course, the hope is to never have to take them off…. But still.
I noticed “P=NP” on one of the stickers in the background. Are you a computer scientist or mathematician with an aviation addiction?
My son is a CS major and he bought me that. In fact, he bought half of those stickers.