Great vid and knowledge, thank you. Looks to be the go-to resource for Prado 150 mods. If you were to do it all from scratch, would still use the BCDC (or DCDC) to charge the lithium, and have the manual isolator?
@andrewcaldwell2275 Thanks for your feedback, and great question. I'm not totally convinced in the vale of a BCDC, if I was trying to save money then no I would use the alternator whilst driving & solar with regulator to charge, Either way the manual isolator is a must, I've just returned from a trip and it really does help protect drain from the starter battery, I'm actually going do some testing and maybe another video on this subject. I certainly would not use a voltage sensing isolator again, which I put in for charge back, and need to remove some relays I put in to try and automate the starter battery isolation! Next time - keep it simple!
Thanks for the run through of your installation. One question regarding the mounting position of the Redarc BCDC 1225D. Looks like it is in front of the radiator. Was there another position to mount it? I have heard of manufacturers claiming airflow problems causing engine problems as a result of blocking air to the radiator, even with lights on the bull bar etc. Resulting in warantly claim issues.
This is the recommended position for the Redarc unit as it keeps it away from the heat of the engine. 1225D operating temp is up to 80 C, I've seen others put it near the battery but the only bracket I've seen puts it in front of the radiator. Anything you put in front of the radiator will obviously reduce air flow, this is why I fitted small spot lights - 7". As to warranty, that's a never ending topic, putting anything into the electrics or engine bay could easily be used by the manufacturer to get out of a warranty claim.
Yes apologies you can use it, you just have to remember the cut off voltages are turn on 13.2V, turn off 12.7V, depends how you want to connect as lithium at 12.7V will be at 15%. I've actually gone back to a manual process, less things to worry about!
Many thanks, I actually made the bracket myself for the isolator which can be found here: www.repco.com.au/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/switches/oex-mini-battery-master-isolation-switch-spst-contacts-rated-100a-32v-acx3401bl/p/A5541887?rgfeed=true&cid=google-shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pyqBhDmARIsAKd9XIP-ngzT71Q8PLHv34zNfQY0DKg4yH8k7C2_EFlqwXHPLg0hxYNIkRUaAldxEALw_wcB
Hi mate. Thanks for your videos. Quick question. The lights you have in the roof (or rocket light inside) do you need to have a relay? Or due low voltage consumption is not necessary? Thanks
Very good question, in my case no I did not use a relay for those lights as the switches are rated at 5 amps and the lights I use are rated at 2.7 amps and less. I would not go much bigger without a relay though.
@RallyeX coret, I did not use a battery tray as the mounting is now the same as the starter battery. I therefore went for the Toyota fixing bracket so now it is identical to the starter battery fitting. I did however add a thin rubber sheet to the bottom of the new battery to help it sit tight. The Toyota bracket does not come as a kit so you have to get all the parts individually but their spares team can help with that.
Here is a link to it www.repco.com.au/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/switches/oex-mini-battery-master-isolation-switch-spst-contacts-rated-100a-32v-acx3401bl/p/A5541887?rgfeed=true&cid=google-shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pyqBhDmARIsAKd9XIP-ngzT71Q8PLHv34zNfQY0DKg4yH8k7C2_EFlqwXHPLg0hxYNIkRUaAldxEALw_wcB
Great video thanks. Just about to start a dual battery project myself. This is very helpful information. Cheers
Great vid and knowledge, thank you. Looks to be the go-to resource for Prado 150 mods. If you were to do it all from scratch, would still use the BCDC (or DCDC) to charge the lithium, and have the manual isolator?
@andrewcaldwell2275 Thanks for your feedback, and great question. I'm not totally convinced in the vale of a BCDC, if I was trying to save money then no I would use the alternator whilst driving & solar with regulator to charge, Either way the manual isolator is a must, I've just returned from a trip and it really does help protect drain from the starter battery, I'm actually going do some testing and maybe another video on this subject. I certainly would not use a voltage sensing isolator again, which I put in for charge back, and need to remove some relays I put in to try and automate the starter battery isolation! Next time - keep it simple!
Thanks for the run through of your installation.
One question regarding the mounting position of the Redarc BCDC 1225D. Looks like it is in front of the radiator. Was there another position to mount it?
I have heard of manufacturers claiming airflow problems causing engine problems as a result of blocking air to the radiator, even with lights on the bull bar etc. Resulting in warantly claim issues.
This is the recommended position for the Redarc unit as it keeps it away from the heat of the engine. 1225D operating temp is up to 80 C, I've seen others put it near the battery but the only bracket I've seen puts it in front of the radiator.
Anything you put in front of the radiator will obviously reduce air flow, this is why I fitted small spot lights - 7".
As to warranty, that's a never ending topic, putting anything into the electrics or engine bay could easily be used by the manufacturer to get out of a warranty claim.
@@chrisp10022
Thanks for the reply, no easy solution sometimes
Are you sure about the SB12 not being able to be used, I asked iTechWorld and they advised could be used with their lithium under bonnet.
Yes apologies you can use it, you just have to remember the cut off voltages are turn on 13.2V, turn off 12.7V, depends how you want to connect as lithium at 12.7V will be at 15%. I've actually gone back to a manual process, less things to worry about!
Hey mate great video, btw do you have a link for the isolator bracket you've used?
Many thanks, I actually made the bracket myself for the isolator which can be found here: www.repco.com.au/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/switches/oex-mini-battery-master-isolation-switch-spst-contacts-rated-100a-32v-acx3401bl/p/A5541887?rgfeed=true&cid=google-shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pyqBhDmARIsAKd9XIP-ngzT71Q8PLHv34zNfQY0DKg4yH8k7C2_EFlqwXHPLg0hxYNIkRUaAldxEALw_wcB
Hi mate. Thanks for your videos. Quick question. The lights you have in the roof (or rocket light inside) do you need to have a relay? Or due low voltage consumption is not necessary? Thanks
Very good question, in my case no I did not use a relay for those lights as the switches are rated at 5 amps and the lights I use are rated at 2.7 amps and less. I would not go much bigger without a relay though.
Am I correct to think you haven’t used a battery tray? What bracket did you use to hold the battery down?
@RallyeX coret, I did not use a battery tray as the mounting is now the same as the starter battery. I therefore went for the Toyota fixing bracket so now it is identical to the starter battery fitting. I did however add a thin rubber sheet to the bottom of the new battery to help it sit tight. The Toyota bracket does not come as a kit so you have to get all the parts individually but their spares team can help with that.
Hey, What was the make/model of the isolator switch you used?
Here is a link to it www.repco.com.au/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/switches/oex-mini-battery-master-isolation-switch-spst-contacts-rated-100a-32v-acx3401bl/p/A5541887?rgfeed=true&cid=google-shopping&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pyqBhDmARIsAKd9XIP-ngzT71Q8PLHv34zNfQY0DKg4yH8k7C2_EFlqwXHPLg0hxYNIkRUaAldxEALw_wcB