How do you know what Engine Oil to Use?
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- What Oil is suitable for your vehicle? How do you know? It can be very confusing! What do the numbers mean? Come with me, and I'll take you through this.
Dan is a well trusted mechanic in Toowoomba and knows the Prado inside and out. Very knowledgeable and honest, knows his stuff.
Leave a comment if you've found buying the right engine oil to be confusing and heard many opinions
On the subject.
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It is even harder choosing an oil for a 1kd with a DPF , doing my head in.🤔🤙
Yes... 😁👍
Hey Y'all, from Florida
As a driver in the '90's we'd change oil monthly (supposedly, like MIGHT-enance !) then a friend introduced me to AMS-oil and got me signed up as a "preferred customer". I was sold on the idea that synthetic oils were a single molecule that won't "cook" under normal use, and was good for 7,500 miles (12,000 KM) Then I started a lawn service. My air-cooled equipment needed to last in 93*F (34c) heat so I used "racing" 2-stroke AMS-oil in the hand-held equipment and 15w-50 in the mowers and truck. Later I added a quart per oil change, or 20% of DIESEL Synthetic just for the added Zinc ZDDP that they took out of "regular" oils due to catalytic converter contamination. The results after 12 years mowing up to 80 lawns a week - - 2 engine failures, one, a crappy old chainsaw I ran into the dirt to cut out a tree and burned up the motor, the other was a "pawn-shop" stick edger that wadded-up the rod bearing, but it also was a beat-up piece when I bought it for $69 instead of $300. New. No other engine failures since 1994 (knock wood, of course!) I've been told the oil is "too thick" and "mixing oils" is "no good". But I'm talking track record, Mercury 40 Horse - AMS-oil Racing and 100:1 oils, Various Chevy 305 and 350's in trucks and cars. 20 motorcycles that only 1 couldn't handle how "slippery" the oil was - the wet clutch slipped. And my current Bayliner with Mercruiser 3.0 with so many hours the head gasket blew 5 Years ago, still going strong. Due to convenience I also run Mobil-1as it specs out similar to AMS-oil.
I'm now at 30 Years of "thick" Synthetic use, the theory is oils get thinner with time, and I don't want to run as thin as 5w-30 in the heat. My 2017 Chevy truck, with lifter de-actuation, wants 0w_20 oil. My Chrysler 300 with 2.7 L 4 cam motor also runs on my "witch's brew" and they both run just fine. Bonus tip - - put several button magnets on your oil filter. They gather the fine iron shavings from cam chains and ring-scrapings that the oil filter paper can't catch. If you build an engine, or open up an engine, put some magnets in there.
Thanks for all that info mate. There is a lot to it. My main purpose for this video was to provide some basic information to my viewers about oils, especially when there is so much to choose from. I'm hoping that I provided some valuable information especially those who are like me and do their own oil changes/vehicle maintenance. Cheers mate, and thanks for watching this video.
OK , I got a 2014 prado 1kd-ftv purchased it with 164k on the clock do all the maintenance on it . Oil pick up to start looking up the drain hole was black mesh but not blocked with carbon deposit . Replaced fuel injectors genuine De so & toyota gasket kit . Been running Penrith 10w-40 semi synthetic oil and sump oil pick up is silver clean , so I guess these a moral to this story . 👍 and have a great day.
Awesome mate 👍. How often do you change your oil?
After watching a lot of other videos, 5w-40 is better than 10w-40 as the oil flows better at cold start giving you better protection and that's true even in warmer climates. They are typically going to be fully synthetics and will tend to have better additive packages. If a vehicle specifies 5w-30, it's probably okay to go for 5w-40 in Queensland cause its warmer (also if towing, racing etc). Basically, the first number could be lower and the second number after the "w" higher than manufacturer specified, but you don't normally want to go in the other direction.
Thanks mate for the info. 👍👍
Wrong! The oil pump will deliver the oil to where it needs to be regardless of weight. This is the biggest misconception I hear daily. 5w v/s 10w is no difference unless it’s -25 f. THE ONLY TEASON FOR THE THINNER OILS IS EMISSIONS DRIVEN!!!!
HTHS is what protects the engine from wear the thinner the oil the less protection. Anything under a 3.5 HTHS is minimum protection and considered energy and fuel conserving which is a 30 weight or less. The winter ratings are all the same at ambient temperature up to or above freezing. Unless you are starting in temps below -25f a 10w is as low as you need to go.
Thanks for the info 👍
the oil Geek he tests oils and he tested in an engine 20w50 vs 5w20 it's on UA-cam ub surprised how well the thick oil builds oil pressure fast
Thanks for the info.
I've been using penrite 10w40 for years on my 2010 1kd , i change it every 5,000k . Got 220k now so thinking of going to 15w40. Thxs for your videos !
Thanks mate. 👍
In Sydney we don't have -20 winters so I'm never going to see the 5w part that I'd be wasting money on, I dare say Qld would be the same. At 15-20C looking at graphs, all weights are pretty close together in performance so I'd be confidant in saying having a 5w is rather pointless unless you're in the VicHC. I have a HJ61 with 500,000km on it, has no blow by, blows no smoke. It's happy to run 15w40 Castrol RX Diesel, Delvac, Rimula from the 20L drums. I've found these heavy duty oils for fleet use to be an improvement over shelf items and are cheaper. I have a 4 year old Triton that runs on that thin 5w-30 enviro stuff all the modern diesels use for emissions, once it gets close to it's service interval it sometimes starts to weep oil. I'm guessing because of the dilution thinning it out. Once warranty is over I'll be going a DPF suitable fleet 15w-40. I've run diesel oil in my Nissan Skyline, oil pressure is great and the internals are spotless.
Yes mate I do agree with what your saying. I'm sticking to the 15w40 as well 👍
1KD in my manual recommends CF4 oil, good luck finding a 5w30 oil in that spec, almost all companies make CF4 in 15w40 weight
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OIL CLEANLINESS
EGR contributes a HUGE amount to contaminants. The reason why a 7mm hole cannot be smaller is it will trigger an engine code . It can be done 100% by electronic box .with blanking plate . Remember debris in inlet air intake REDUCES throttle response / reduces fuel economy / reduces power and torque / leaves deposits on injectors and combustion chambers / wears out timing chain links
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Hey Mike & Family
Batten down the hatches mate, Oils are a very controversial subject no mater what brand of oils people use, me personally I be always used Penrite 10-40w, as always we love your content no matter what, I am curious why you changed from Penrite to Nulon, I’m also thinking of changing over to Nulon
😁😁 Nulon is a good oil, and to be quite honest Penrite have increased all their prices of late, and since I change oil every 5k I made the change
Stick with the 5W30 ACEA C2 specification, your DPF, amongst other things, will thank you. ACEA C2, ACEA C2, ACEA C2, ACEA C2, ..... FOR A 1KD!
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What would he recommend for a surf, 3L 1KZTE it’s had new motor in it recently, I’ve done 1000k so far, 500k service was done by Mackanic in Laidley ( abit shonky I say)
Let me get back to you on that one when I see Dan next, I'll ask him what he thinks. For the QLD climate I reckon he might say the 10w/40. But I'll get back to you
Mate just checked with Dan, and that is correct the 10/40 👍
Awesome content
Thanks mate 👍👍
Sorry to say this mate. This guy looks like a typical Australian mechanic . There is a try to teach the Toyota engineers 😂. Some points are corrects but basically he doesn’t know anything about the oil. A very open ended discussion as it involves cooling and lubrication at a bare minimum.
The viscosity will be dominantly related to bearing clearances if designed for a thin oil, what happens if a thick oil is used?
Yes the thick oil may support a greater load but it has to get into the bearings in the first place. A thicker oil maybe so difficult to pump around the engine that relief valves open further and in turn reduce the volume of traveling through the journal bearings in turn reducing the heat transferred from the bearings via the oil. The oil in the journal bearings may run significantly hotter and actually lower it's viscosity if it gets significantly hotter.
In the past magnesium based detergents were often used as they were cheap. But at normal operating temps the additive was often operated above its thermal stability limit. Calcium based detergents are more thermally stable and also have bearing pasification properties (think 1HD-T big end sub surface fatigue failure).
Unfortunately along came DPF's that don't like calcium, zinc or phosphorus (ZDDP antiwear additives) so alternative additives have had to be developed to protect the engine and the DPF.
Different base stock of same nominal viscosity will also carry greater or lesser loads too.
In the distant past in the winters of New Zealand the 3L series Toyota engine would sometimes blow up oil filters to the point they burst, yet all relief valves were working properly. It only occurred with 15w40 oil. The factory service manual recommended 10w30 oil. If 5w30 or 10w30 was used they never burst or bulged. The 15w40 could not be dumped via the relief valves to the sump fast enough and the oil pressure rose uncontrollably.
I prefer, unless bearing clearances have been loosened or running extreme boost, to run OEM recommended viscosity.
You can substitute the first number with a lower number without compromising load carrying eg 0w30 vs 5w30. As the second number relates to viscosity at operating temp of 100 degrees.
HTHS high temp high shear viscosity is measured at 150 degrees C and is meant to simulate the oil film between ring and bore as the piston is moving fast. Unfortunately not all oil companies publish this number.
Also it is very unusual for a poor quality oil to cause a catastrophic engine failure. Premature wear failures are quite common but still typically beyond the warranty period. And are not easy to diagnose.
Hey mate. Thanks for all the information. There's a lot to it hey. Appreciate your comment.
I use shell 0W40 on my 1KD D4D hilux 2012. Best oil so far. Engine is smooth, reduces noise, good acceleration and exhaust smell is not that unpleasant.
Thanks for the info mate. 👍
You are an IDIOT if you think for one second you can’t use 15w when a 5w or 10w is RECOMMENDED! The reason and only reason for thinner oils is CAFE. My 200 series with petro V8 in the US is recommended 0w20 but the exact same LC built in Japan, just like mine, in the Middle East say the recommended oil is 0w20 - 20w50. Same fucking engine. It’s all CAFE driven. 20w50 will get to any bearing on a production built engine, Guaranteed!!! Bearing clearance go oil is used for a builder building a specific engine for a specific reason.
I use Shell helix ultra 0W30 here in Brazil for 7 years, no problems
diesel or petrol
Choose diesel Early old school or later pre Dpf or Dpf model
viscosity cold climate 5w/30 or normal/hot weather 5w/40 or 10w/40
interval change every 5,000 to 10oookm
change fuel filter yearly
Remove and clean egr and clean cooler 50,000--100000km
clean inlet manifold every 100oookm
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Cleaning an egr system was common place in automotive now only done by scheduled servicing is heavy industry . Car makers delete this to show u ""how low the maintenance costs are"" AN ABSOLUTE LIE .
Valve clearances need checking every 100,000km
MAP and MAF sensors need cleaning every 30,OOOKM
Thanks for the info 👍