Inconvenient Truth About KD Couplers (216)
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- KD couplers are about the best available option available today--others may come close but not quite hit the mark. However they are not without their issues, especially one particularly frustrating one. In this video I'll show you the problem and offer some solutions. So get ready for some sobering truth about KD couplers.
Here is a list of part numbers and dimensions for the magnets I purchased from All Electronics (www.allelectronics.com):
MAG-74 0.105” x 0.2” x 0.4” 2/$1
MAG-80 0.39” x 0.2” $0.75 ea
MAG-143 10mm x 2mm 3/$1.20
MAG-160 0.25” x 0.54” 2/$1 - Навчання та стиль
When you click on an American railroader's vid and the first thing you see is a T9 (Greyhound) in Southern Railway livery and a C Class loco, you realise this man has taste!
@barnabyjoy True, but one step at a time...
I'm not much into model railroading outside of a couple computer simulations, but I just think it's amazing that you can find detailed videos on virtually any topic like this one.
Many thanks Larry not least for the quick response, the video is just what the doctor ordered to clarify the process with the Kadee parts to complete the job, many thanks - John
The Kadee coupler system works very well if you have no unwanted magnetic problems as we seen demonstrated here. I chose to use the Rix Products HO Scale uncoupling tool which needs to be placed between the cars and has magnets on each side and opens them without the need to pull forward then back up to clear the under the track magnet to re-couple later. You can uncouple cars anywhere so long as you can reach which then under the track magnets are needed.
Yes I have several of the Rix uncoupling tools and for the most part they work well. Just don’t get them near an Athearn caboose with its steel ladders or old pressed steel box cars.
For putting weights inside a vehicle I use Alloy Wheel Balancing Weights. They come in strips of 5 and 10 grams and are self-adhesive. Martin. (Thailand)
Thank you for the great videos, Larry. Just got back to N scale after about 25 years. Things have changed so much snd a lot of new things to learn.
What a great Idea, Thanks Larry. KD couplers are so realistic too.
Excellent explanation thanks Larry
It also helps to file down the mold parting line on the inside of the knuckles.
Great job, Larry. Always enjoy your videos
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Not all of them apply to my situation but I watch them all anyway. But when I do need to know something you always produce the goods.
Same here. I try to watch all of Larry's videos. Even if the subject matter is not directly applicable to my situation, it's all "good-to-know" information. And you can never tell when it might come in handy.
That’s the great thing about this hobby you learn a lot along the way. Just learning how to use a voltmeter allowed me to keep a lot of appliances working around the house without ever having to call in an electrician. And simple soldering skills morphed into replacing and extending numerous plumbing runs in the house. I am still learning stuff all the time.
@@TheDCCGuy me two & im 82 still learning ....Thanks Larry like your books too
Excellent! I love that you have some UK locomotives and cars too. I found myself with several of those private wagons, which I think just drip character!
In my personal experience of 50 years with Kadee and Athearn cars, I have never had uncoupling problems after steel wheels and/or axles were replaced with non-magnetic parts. That being said, however, I do like the idea of a shorter "uncoupling zone" using the small rare earth magnets. Great idea!
Related to this, it was impressed on me the importance of not using steel floor weights and steel axles or wheel treads.
This was forty years ago when joining my local clubs timetable operating sessions using the standard Kadee uncoupling magnets for use with Kadee couplers.
These aspects would usually be highlighted in magazine reviews as a caution that an item of rolling stock may cause problems as supplied.
Using an electromagnet would solve this problem
Thanks Larry, I will use that method as I develop my new layout
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.
Great video and good description. Makes a lot of sense and easy to follow 👍👍👍
this is a great video !!! love watching your videos and learning from them. thank you for sharing these ideas
Very helpful indeed, thanks!
Thanks for sharing this most interesting 'how to' on KD's & magnet uncoupling. This will be part of my next project on 'The AnneliesVille RR'. Most enjoyable and well produced video ! Cheers, Filip ( from France)
EXCELLENT presentation! Neodymium cube magnets (2.6mm) allow 9' spacing of ties. 2 pair or 3 pair or 4 pair of these set just inside each rail (or even just outside each rail) will attract the pins and can be very easily hidden by ballast. Steel weights and the plastic floor on Athearn's 40' boxcars can be "flipped" although the plastic center sill now needs to be Tenaxed or Plastic-Welded to the floor (easy) and the floor "door bars" will need to be clipped off and filed flush (also easy). Inexpensive and easy. Intermountain wheels roll far better with pin-point axle tips and also stay much cleaner longer. Kadee wheels' "blackening agent" rubs off with running and eventually ends up on the rail head; combined with dust, this causes conductivity issues later on.
Been using 3mm cube neodymium magnets on my exhibition layouts for some time. I put a small block of foam between the wagon floor and one axle to stop the wagon shimmying. Cheap,cheerful and adds no weight. I use bits of old roofing lead as weights to replace steel weights. Wagons here in the U.K. are not really set up for KDs and therefore require a little bit of work. Most now have NEM pockets making the use of KD nos. 18 and 19 easy
Great video Larry
Great vid. This is the first video I’ve seen explaining how Kadees are supposed to work and the first using these magnets. I was aware of the neodinium magnets and have used them for various purposes but had no idea they could be used like this. I will use this method on my layout that is under construction. Thanks! 👍🏻
Fishing weights were always my go to lead solution.
I always hammered them to shape but I've seen others melt it - beware of fumes.
Thanks Larry, Very good to know. 🐾🚂 KY.
Being new to your channel it's nice to see a couple of British locomotives visiting your Railroad in the background.
I am up to about a dozen GWR and Southern steam locos right now running on my 1930s Teignbury modules. My main layout, the Piedmont Southern is straight US Southern, Norfolk and Western, and Chesapeake and Ohio set in 1957.
That C Class in the background, I've seen and ridden on a train pulled by the only remaining preserved locomotive left a few times at the Bluebell Railway in Sussex. Such a beautiful locomotive. By far one of my favorite locos for sure.
Yes, the SECR green paint scheme in the Bluebell loco is striking.I also have one of the SECR D class locos, behind the C class, painted in the Southern Maunsell green paint scheme. I almost went for the SECR paint scheme on both locos but it was just a bit too much for me-the red and green combination looked more appropriate for running under a Christmas tree.
I put 5/16 square super magnets on my scale lead under the scale rails. Works great.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
I always wondered about this and what happens with the magnets. I might try this now that I know how it works properly. Always learning new ideas with you MRR pros! Thanks!
VERY USEFUL VIDEO!!! Thanks.
Great info for anyone installing Kadee couplers for true operation. Wished I'd seen this when I was building HO layouts! When I was in HO, I built elaborate motorized mechanisms that raised and lowered the Kadee magnets into place. I could have avoided all of this if I saw this video on ferrous weights and axles! Today I run all outdoors, G scale live steam, so this info is not applicable. I use G scale Kadee couplers but in the outdoor environment I can't keep the magnetic uncoupling working reliably. , Not a concern because on my G scale live steam layout, the more 'hands-on" the better.
Great video I’m in uk and the latest on Karee couplers and I am going to give it ago I do have US and UK stock I belong to a uk based club and we do run both we run N scale and HO . Thanks again
Great piece of information 🙂 cheer's.
Great Video... I'm so glad I don't snip the hoses off the Kadee Couplers.🤗🤭
Great idea.
What I used for weights were pennies. 12 pennies = 1 ounce. Hiding them in open cars took a bit of trickery, but it was possible.
I saw, a few years ago, where a guy put a small bent piece of copper strip just barely touching the axle to give just a tiny amount of resistance against free rolling. That was enough to stop unwanted uncoupling.
Yes , the video of 10 sept 2018 on Stephen Bennett channel,
Couplers - 7 Secrets to RELIABLE Kadee Remote Magnetic Uncoupling on your HO Scale Model Railroad!
at 21:00 talkshe about adding a little bit of friction to those too well running cars! I tried and it works!
For a marker, you can also glue down an HO (or OO) scale painted figure there near the magnet; even better if it has a railroad lantern in its hand. 😊
Buck shot works if you can find old led stuff. I use nickles (5 grams) and pennies (3 grams). non magnetic, not harmful and way cheaper than any store bought weights. I have been using little square super duper magnets for a long time :D
Neat! Conveys 4 minutes of information in only 21 minutes!
Great, then you’ll really like the next one! I believe in giving you more than your money’s worth. Actually, I make videos for a wide range of expertise from novice to expert. This means I have to assume that my viewers know little to nothing about the subject and that means I have to explain all the details. This also means that folks who are knowledgeable about the subject may get bored, but they can just scroll past the “boring” sections and go on to what interests them.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks for letting me know it is considered and deliberate.
Copper makes great weight replacement as it is has a higher density than steel without be magnetic.
Excellent informative video 👍😀😀😀🚂🇬🇧
I recently ran into the same issue with the under the track magnets. Found some metal wheels are also magnetic. Been experimenting with the NDM magnets, but haven't found something totally reliable yet to replace the under the track magnet. I bought some 25mmx3mmx3mm (1"x1/8"x1/8") bars and tried different spacings. I did find that you want them no closer than centered under the rails otherwise they don't offer enough sideways pull. I wanted the bars to increase the uncoupling zone up to 1" in length or so. But even doubling or tripling the magnets on each side, the small bars still didn't have enough pull from under the track to be reliable. Going to buy some larger bars and try them.
What did work a lot better was the little 3mmx3mmx3mm cubes placed between the ties on the inside of the rails. They were reliable, but stick up above the ties a little and would be hard to hide.
'Found some metal wheels are also magnetic.' omg!!!!
Very interesting.
You can buy lead roof flashing used for roof vent pipe...I keep mine double bagged in ziplocs in my work bench.
Hornby has an uncoupling ramp which works on the kadees as well for uncouple with a spring loaded trigger you roll your coaches or wagons on top of it it springs up pushing both couplings up and apart
You can still get the lead sheet as roof flashing and in plumbing supply stores or roofing suppliers for pouring in concrete as water pans.
Great tup, I’ll give them a look!
Love your stuff! Couplers work better at the same height (:
superb mini doc, hav now subscribed :)
This is interesting - good analysis on what happens when the steel weights/axles engage with the magnets. I suspect that the reason that the shorter magnets work is that they are so short that the axles/weights are never over the magnet at the same time as the couplers are over the magnet and thus when the slackening occurs when the wheels/weights pass over the magnets, the uncouplers are not over a magnet and do not uncouple despite being temporarily slack.
An alternative is to use non-permanent magnets. Some use electromagnets, but they are difficult to handle since they take a lot of current and can get extremely (fire-startingly) hot if left on for more than a few seconds and easily burn out switch contacts after a while in use. A better solution is to use very large/strong permanent magnets underneath the baseboards moved up and down by a servo motor. The magnets being under the baseboard, there is no need to cut any holes in the baseboards. Being moved by a servo, they can be as long as necessary to allow easy uncoupling without having to be so precise, but can be retracted when not in use to prevent unwanted uncoupling. They can also be left up for as long as desired to allow people to take as long as they need to do the uncoupling.
One can make these DIY, I am sure, but a company called Dingo Servo makes laser cut aluminium/3d printed ones of these that I have found work well.
Yes, and in an earlier attempt at controlling the creep factor I cut one of the large magnets in half, but the magnetic field wasn’t strong enough to work reliably. Then I saw these neodymium magnets in the All Electronics catalog and the light bulb in my brain lit up!
I first remember Kadee couplers back in the 80s when I modeled in N-scale.
I chose to stay with Rapido couplers because of the jiggling cars in trains equipped with Kadees. These cars bounced into one another like folks dancing in a Conga line - huge turnoff for me, since any effort at achieving realism went out the window because of the jiggling trains. Don't see that jiggling anymore in model railroad videos I watch, so I imagine Kadee remedied the problem.
The pogoing is an artifact of some Micro-Trains (ex-Kadee) couplers, but not others, and not HO Kadees. The centering springs on some (notably the ones built into trucks) are in tension, so a train stretches these and can pogo as they pull back. HO Kadees pivot in the knuckles and don't have this effect. Some Micro Trains (1015 for example) have the springs in compression, so they don't show this behavior. Note: tension in this case means that they are compressed by the pulling force.
Spot on, Larry. Problem just as you describe with small, light UK trucks such as Dapol 00 gauge, which have steel axles. It is well worth experimenting with Neodymium magnets, the positioning is quite critical. I find 5mm dia x 12mm works well under Peco 100 track. Also worth adding some lead weights into those light trucks. Thanks.
The gondola can also be underweight or not heavy enough. I have the same jerkiness with light cars even going mainline speeds. I understand the magnet is hitting the weight on the car but could be the combo of factors… also going kind of slow too.
Great video.
It's working great but not for the reason you think.
The way magnetic couplers work is that when a piece of ferris metal (the coupler pin) enters a magnetic field it becomes magnetic itself and takes on the polarity of the field it is in.
When two pins enter one field they both become magnetized and with the same polarity. What happens when you bring the same pole of two magnets together? They repel each other.
So the coupler pins are repeling each other, not being attracted by two magnets.
So you should be able to make it work with one small magnet (one of the rods inserted vertically) in the center of the roadbed. Of course it will be really finicky getting the right distance from the pins. That's a problem Kadee had but if you can get it just right, you'll have a very percise uncoupler. Please post results when you do.
Bill
I had a thought... You could attach the magnet to an actuator like a servo, a solenoid, switch motor or even a lever or a cable to raise and lower it. Up to uncouple, down to not. Attach your marker to tell if it's active or not.
The magnet operation is not quite as you've described. The steel trip pin gets attracted to the magnet. Period. Polarity doesn't matter in that case. You can just install the magnets and it works. One magnet in the center would have to be wide enough to span wider than the trip pins would want to open so they pull fully apart, and be oriented so the poles of the magnet were aligned across with the ties. I tried several arrangements and this is what I found out while experimenting.
Replace steel weights with lead or brass .
Use electro controlled uncoupled, not fixed magnets.
Thus steel axles are no longer a problem
I started with KDs back in 1975, on Riva Rossi American line cars( HO). Plastic coupler box covers, no steel wts ( they get rusty as well.)
Now that I prototype 1:48 scale, On42, I use Hook and adjustable Shackles. ( original). And a Hand Incoupling Hook.
I've seen many folks use uncoupling markers - though they tend to be in fitting with the scene: a barrel, a switch lever frame, a cat(!), just anything that doesn't look too much out of place, but serves as a marker from a distance.
And wheel balance weights in the cars!
I’ve even seen folks paint the mid-point tie red or some other obvious color to get operator’s attention.
I used to believe in painting a marker tie. I moved away from that method when seeing the paint became obstructed by the rolling stock.
Neil, your idea of random scenic pieces is a cool idea. Even this Ole' Gandy Dancer can learn new tricks. Though what happens when visiting engineers run an Ops Session and don't know of the Hidden Mickey Markers? Still fun idea!
In the real world we mark clearance points with the adjacent track using small orange cones, yellow paint on the rail, painting the whole tie, etc. Nothing is unrealistic if it keeps cars from cornering each other due to an out-to-foul situation. You might not want the clearance point to be the magnet point due to a variety of factors, but you can get away with anything in your ow world.
Luckily I've not had serious enough issues with the Kadee to want to replace it. My tiny sidings are only long enough for 2 or 3 old time cars, so avoiding highly magnetic ones to park is not too hard. If I had a lot of space it'd be all different though! I put up a video of working the uncoupler and switch with an E-L gp7.
If you do run into problems just replace steel axles and car weights and you should be OK. I only have issues on the Piedmont Southern with those Athearn cars. Most cars made over the last decade don’t have those or steel wheelsets so are not an issue.
No one has mentioned the health risk of those Neodymium magnets. They are very brittle. The thinner ones easily break - even just by the sudden force of uncontrolled attraction to another one or a ferrous surface. The thin ones don't just break - they produce many fragments. If any of the magnets or pieces are ingested then they can cause the intestines to cross-couple together - causing a blockage that requires surgery. It's becoming a recognised problem with children's toys that use them.
They are safer in use if encapsulated in plastic/resin - but that still leaves the problem of small children putting them in their mouth.
Good comment, hopefully folks will keep these out of sight and out of kids hands. However once installed under ballast on the layout they should not be an issue.
NEW SUBSCRIBER near Fort Worth, Texas. Good info. Eaglegards...
Neodymium magnets are also dangerous when they interact with electronics the Locomotive/Engines Youre running so be careful when running your engines near them unless they are too small to do anything
Great demonstration!
How do you decide the position of magnets regarding their polarity?
Vertically, horizontally?
Both the same direction or different direction?
Also, could it be they work fine because thet are not under the cars attracting the steal plates or wheel plates?
Could we install a row of them to get a longer area working as the decoupler area?
Polarity with these does not seem to matter so the must not be like the KD or Bachmann ones. I tried various arrangements and the long rectangles seems to work best followed by the large round ones. Multiples don’t seem to help that much.
I replaced all the magnets on my open frame (Pittman) motors with rare earth magnets and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and now they "creep" around the tracks. I didn't know that you could use 'em for uncoupling cars. I was wondering about the trip pins on the Kaydee couplers. I've seen one modeler cut 'em all off. Guess I'll have to install a couple of magnets on a siding for uncoupling. Yep, if you can find typeset you can use those for weights as they are the perfect size of HO gauge cars. Cheers from eastern TN
Most who cut the trip pins off feel it looks more realistic and uncouple using the 0-5-0 method or use picks which work as long as you don’t mind guys knocking details off you locos and breaking your scenery on the process.
Flat lead strips are available on eBay $6.99 per package of 50 pieces.
These look perfect for uncoupling cars before backing them into buildings. Easy to retrofit and not as unsightly as the magnets that go above the ties.
And a lot cheaper too!
I'm glad I saw this prior to building my layout (researching). Quick question: Does polarity [lay a role? If you have positive on one side, negative on the other, etc?
In this case polarity does not seem to be an issue since there are two individual magnets.
You can get lead at pluming supply store it use in black pipe
Hi Larry. Excellent video again. Do you keep the delayed uncoupling effect? Or it becomes difficult because the short magnetic field?
No it stays since as soon as the coupler heads open as long as you push them together you can then spot the car. The couplers will not close as long as you are pushing them with the open faces engaged.
Hi Larry - try using an electromagnet. With some finagling you can set it up with a rotary switch (or something more modern) and have multiple locations for uncoupling.
I did a video on installing and powering the KD electromagnets used on the modules and on the Piedmont Southern. But as I said in this video that would be a very expensive option on a large layout.
@@TheDCCGuy Make your own, it's a lot less expensive and not that difficult if I remember correctly. Of course my dad was an electronic technician back in the day so making our own electrical devices wasn't that much work(and working for a Telecom supplier always allowed for free parts at the time, since they allowed employees to take home left over materials and/or "rejected" products).
HO couples are the bane of my existence..They fall off so easily and they are hard to get back on , unless you got three hands. Seems like they could have been designed better
Those rare earth magnets are cool. Small and easily hidden in scenery. What are your thoughts on small electro-magnets for this purpose?
I am pretty new to trains and such. I don't really even have space for a layout. However, why doesn't the company just include an electro magnet with a switch. It's not a track switch but a switch switch, lol. When you want to disconnect cars, just flip it on and connect the circuit. It could probably power it through the track electrical system. It would also allow you to disconnect groups of cars together so they are already ready to go for whoever picks them up? Anyway what do I know. Never even seen a train layout in person.
Some do.
Hi Larry, good info on the kadee couplers. I’ve just started converting some of my Hornby rolling stock from Nem tension look couplers to kadee. Having seen your video I’ll be ready for that issue as I haven’t yet installed the uncoupling magnet yet. Many thanks.
I was really surprised that so many of the UK wheelsets have steel axles. I contacted Oxford Rail to ask if they sell theirs individually but the answer was no. Only DCC Concepts sells replacements that are non-magnetic but theirs are full disc although they are looking into making spoked versions. I have a couple of Dapol wagons with non-magnetic axles but the vast majority of theirs are steel too. With this approach I now will not have to replace even those with steel wheels and axles.
Well this was CERTAINLY INTERESTING AND helpful, I jus don't know what the hell happened here in Denver, Colo USA, they use to have 2 big train hobby stores, Minzel Trains in Westminster a suburburb of Denver and CABOOSE Hobbies in Denver, needless to say their BOTH SHUT DOWN, I CANT FIND A TRAIN STORE ANYWHERE here😭😭😭, HOW SAD IS THAT, Caboose had jus about (EVERYTHING I NEEDED IN STOCK), OF ALL GAUGES, WHICH I LOVE SEEING IN PERSON of WHAT I WANT & NEEDED. Including MANY DIFFERENT (KADEE COUPLERS I DIDN'T EVEN KNOW EXISTED) I don't do online. That's so sad, 😭😭 NOW I've bascilly given on this hobby😭
I miss Caboose too, I used to make it out to Denver at least once a year since about 1983 and loaded up every time. However for years I have just gone with the flow and buy 99% of my stuff via mail order. But as my wife will tell you I have a basement full of stuff and really don’t need much more than paint, glue, and some rail now and then.
Thats why i never use magnets with NEM pocket kadees
HELLO LARRY ITS IS RANDY AND I LIKE U VIDEO IS COOL THANKS LARRY FRIENDS RANDY
I asked in a different thread, will the rectangular ones fit between the H O scale ties? Or is the orientation important for that shape?
Sorry, but sometimes so many comments come in it is easy to lose track of them all. Anyway, they won’t fit between the ties, so I install them so they are centered under the tie directly beneath a rail on each side-seems to work great. I have had success with both the rectangular ones and the round ones.
nice
This video is more about the cars and their issues than about any "inconvenient truth about KD couplers". I have been using those cylindrical magnets for about 20 years. I install them right next to the rails rather than under them so the install is easier and doesn't require moving the track or rails out of the way. So much better than the below the track or in the track KD magnets.
I tried that and it didn't work. I oriented the magnets on both sides of the track so the polarity was the same, is that what you did?
@@bigdaddy5179 I used the 1/8" by 1/4" cylindrical magnets and found I didn't need to pay attention to polarity. Drilled down from above between ties, at inside edge of each rail. Glued them with white glue. Worked as intended. I put three on each side to stretch out the uncoupling spot into an "uncoupling area", easier to hit while operating. I bought the magnets from KJ Magnetics, online.
Larry: Can I send you a double-A battery for your SRR clock ? 😂
It’s a fast clock, only works when you turn it on at the controller.
Use molybdenum for weights. Denser than lead and not poisonous.
I’ve actually been looking for a supply of depleted uranium like they use in tank buster artillery shells, hight density and great penetration!
@@TheDCCGuy ...... gold is pretty heavy. How 'bout gold? Think it'll work?
KD's Hate short British outline short wagons. Most have magnetic axles which gives you the magnetic creep as shown
at the beginning. Even worse are Alan Gibson wheels that have steel tyres on plastic wheel centres. these need special
wagon brakes to provide sufficient drag to keep coupled. I use small shreds of a harder packing foam that will slide against
an axle without pulling the foam out of place. This drag limits the number of wagons small locomotives can haul.
I'd NEVER use KD's on my big exhibition layout where I haul up to 60-70 wagons and require to separate the train at any random location.
Like all products they have their place for best use. Wouldn't use anything else on my shunting (Switching) layouts.
Yes, those Allan Gibson wheels will stop a car dead in its tracks over a magnet. I discovered those quite early since they come in the Peco GWR coach kits. I replaced them with Hornby ones which at least have nonmagnetic wheels bit unfortunately have steel axles. I think using the small magnets will take care of these issues and on the main I installed electromagnets to avoid the problem there. I also installed them on the mainline tracks on the Piedmont Southern for the same reason. That way if there is any unwanted uncoupling at least it will be on a siding or spur and out of harms way.
How do you shove more than one car across the magnet without uncoupling each car as it crosses? I like James' electromagnet idea. I have a hump yard in my head that would benefit from an electromagnet versus a constant magnet.
Unless you stop as you push the cars past the magnets they often will simply recouple or stay coupled, but I prefer to shove them in separately for spotting on a siding anyway. I suspect that by adjusting the exact placement of the magnets you could fine tune the setup so they would only uncouple if they are stopped directly between a pair of magnets. The KD electromagnets are about $18 each from my dealer and that can buy a lot of little magnets.
Hi Larry, I hope you see this question as it had been a while since you posted the video. When installing the small neo magnets, do you need to be precise about the poles on the magnets, i.e have a north pole up on one side and a south pole up on the opposite side? Thanks, Andrew
No, just stick the in under the rails or right next to them s I showed and they’ll pull the trip pin towards it.
@@TheDCCGuy Cheers Larry
I have never been satisfied with magnets under the track to uncouple. I’d solve this problem by eliminating the magnets.
Larry, will the MAG-74 work as well as I could cut space for them in the cork roadbed without having to move the track?
Yes, its in my list of those I tested.
You could use a figure of a switchman as a marker. Modern prototypes use an orange traffic cone to mark the clearance point. If you’re modeling modern stuff, and orange cone would be perfect.
Is it possible to kick cars on a layout?
Sort of. First you have to uncouple using a magnetic uncoupler then bring the open but offset coupler faces together, give it a good shove then bring the loco to a quick stop allowing the car to roll into the spur track.
Larry, another great and informative video. However, I the title doesn't seem to fit the problem, no where did I hear that the KD coupler is the issue; I've learned here it is the magnets. I don't think Kadee would like the inference....just sayin'....
I can’t tell you how many times I have heard folks complain that KD couplers are more trouble than they are worth for this very reason. You are right that it is not a direct problem with the couplers, but it is directly related to the KD system that depends on the under the track magnets to activate the KD couplers. And as long as manufacturers or modelers use wheelsets with steel wheels or axles, or body weights made of steel it will continue to be a problem for KD couplers, whereas simply using smaller magnets like these will prevent the problem as will removing steel weights and replacing the wheelsets with non-ferrous ones, and that’s the inconvenient truth.
@@TheDCCGuy Got it. Thank you for explaining that further Larry. Those magnets were very impressive. Thanks for all you do in bringing us this information!
Larry: What brand of wheels did you say you used to replace the originals on the old Athearn tank cars? Did you say Intermountain? Much obliged for another great video.
Those are Intermountain. I got the last batch on ebay from Modelrrsupply, they are fast and offer the lowest price I could find. The rise in price has been amazing over the last few years and they are now running $83-100 per hundred. The good tho g is most new cars either come with them or something similar so I have just had to replace wheelsets on older stuff like the Athearn cars.
@@TheDCCGuy Thank you.
Now that All Electronics has ceased operation I’m looking for a substitute for the Mag 74 you seem to prefer. Is the last dimension provided the thickness? Would you happen to know the pull rating?
Sorry but I don’t have any technical info on them. You can find similar ones on eBay.
Now the UK cars need prototypical link and hook couplers, with a tiny little brakeman to tighten the turnbuckles.
Maybe you can import some leprechauns from Ireland.
@@TheDCCGuy Aye!
I was wondering if you had worked with braking on the Piedmont.... specifically, on a main line, when you want to run one train after the other but the following train stops if the block ahead is not open
I have never tried it but there are ways to set up braking sections to stop a decoder equipped loco if the decoder supports that feature. I am using automatic block signaling so that train crews will be stopped by a red signal if the block ahead is occupied-more on that in a future video.
I saw a video by Mega Points (UK) with their braking system which seemed to work quite nicely but as I understand, only works with Lenz type decoders , not the kind we use on this side of the pond. I am a Digitrax guy and they sent me KB 331 which describes a braking system with a separate booster and ballast bulbs on the wires which connect to the brake section of track. I am not too sure about using ballast bulbs.
Thanks
I guess there are some disadvantages to really free rolling cars... the old tyco plastic trucks had enough drag to them magnets wouldn't pull the cars up so much. Such is life.
I think Lumberyards still carry lead flashing
I use rare earth magnets myself, and they're fine. But can anything be done to make Kadees work better on curved track? That is what annoys me most about them. Of course a lot of people disdain magnets totally, and use bamboo skewers instead, but I'd prefer not to reach into the scene.
Nothing can be done about curves. The couplers have to be centered over the magnet or between them to work and on a curve they are offset a bit to towards the outside of the curve.
Try stainless steel weight plates? Non magnetic
Great video. I didn't catch which magnet you used on your layout of the four you showed. Was it the MAG-80? TY
I tested 6 and the 4 I showed and listed in the description all work, but I think I like MAG-74, the small rectangular one most.
@@TheDCCGuy how did you orientate the magnet? Would flat between the ties work?
Hi Larry. Do you have opposite polarities on each magnet so that one pulls and the other pushes or are the polarities the same for both?
No, you want the magnets on opposite sides of the track to pull the opposing coupler trip pins away from each other to open the couple head.
Since Larry didn’t really answer your question, yes probably doesn’t matter much on polarity because you are not going magnet to magnet, but magnet to ferrous metal. You’d probably want to just standardize though and do your whole layout with the same polarity.
you probably want the poles to be horizontal instead of vertical, right?
There is a significant difference. If you have North up on one side and South up on the other you risk having a magnetic field across the tracks, the very thing which attracts axles. My guess is that Larry has the same Pole up both sides hence no axle attraction.
The actual polarity doesn't matter for attracting the uncoupling hanger pin but might be important to avoid axle issues. Helpful if Larry could confirm this
Larry,
For the first time in over 200 episodes I can not disagree with you more!
I was given a freebie pack of Neodymium magnets when they first came on the Model RxR Scene. This after about 50 years of using Low Voltage Electro Magnets. Yeah! I get it You use Electro Magnets elsewhere on your layout. But where it is needed most is in yard uncoupling.
With, as you demonstrated here, even with indiscriminate magnets they fail REPEATEDLY in forward uncoupling. Reverse ok most times but not fail proof.
Back in my late teens with my Grandfather, a TV Pioneer by trade, and my Great Uncle, a career RxR man, together we installed Electro Magnets, beneath the rail ties, with a simple plunger switch in the side of the bench work. This was before facias. Since those days of using a power tapped off the rails to the switch, across the magnet, I have improved the activating power with an independent button battery source.
There by a consist of cars can run in either direction to uncouple in a yard ladder, team track, siding, RIP track, or even dummy Loco storage.
I do, and have done for decades, used your idea of markers where the uncoupler is located.
As my local hobby store manager gave me the Neodymium, for my faithful patronage, I do not have the heart to toss them out. So as I upgrade my MagnaRail system I will use them in those applications. A good Modeler throws NOTHING AWAY.
Sorry for the hit.
Certainly this isn't for everyone, just like everything else in all hobbies. You use what you like. Electromagnets are awesome, and can run a railroad much more "prototypically" than using an uncoupling skewer. However, my layout has 32 locations for spotting cars at industries. With that quantity I'm not going to spend the money for electromagnets at each one, as nice as that might be. I will use one on my yard drill track, but that's all.
@@kevin0007 you raise an excellent point about cost. The same issue as Larry did in his episode.
And yes from my teens through my early 40's it was great, on many levels, to have my Grandfather around. However, the cost can be reduced by shopping for parts, scratch building materials, even model train sets at charity thrift shops. I'm not going to name names but along with standard hobby shopping I spend as much at Church shops & Community thrift shops. And get a bigger bang for the buck while assisting my neighbors. I find electro magnets by the box or shelf full at about ten cents on the dollar. I understand your volume on switches. After almost 65 years in our hobby I must have a number approaching that number. So even I wouldn't make a one time buy to fit my layout needs. 3 or 4 at a time makes for a $5.00 or $6.00 sale and a couple weeks of crafting needs.
@@jvanamb You've given me the idea of using the permanent magnets, but building a hinged mount underneath, with a pushrod to raise and lower the magnets. Best of both worlds - not too expensive, and no unwanted uncoupling! Thanks!!