unless your going for INSANE precision 1.8 motors are alot better for acell and speed over 0.9 motors while having more torque and using the same amount of power i would always recommend LDO motors
@@TheVoronModder Go with the * tooth, Its far more accurate, I have moved on from the CW2, and I am wanting to get into the Galileo or the Orbiter v2 on my 350 v2 but running sherpas on all my printers. Only issue I am running into is my rapido UHF v2 seems to have a heck of a retraction issue. Stringing all over, I want to use .06 or .08 but cant get ti into control properly. Sooooo... starting over. lol
Love the small sherpas, so easy. They are almost maintenance free.
One word of caution. The filament in those hinges will dry out over time and break making the hinges break. Found out the hard way.
unless your going for INSANE precision 1.8 motors are alot better for acell and speed over 0.9 motors while having more torque and using the same amount of power
i would always recommend LDO motors
the new thing with sherpas is the 6 thooth motor
Interesting, im just learning about them and getting into them. starting with the 10 tooth, I will look into the 6 tooth today.
Thank you!
@@TheVoronModder Go with the * tooth, Its far more accurate, I have moved on from the CW2, and I am wanting to get into the Galileo or the Orbiter v2 on my 350 v2 but running sherpas on all my printers. Only issue I am running into is my rapido UHF v2 seems to have a heck of a retraction issue. Stringing all over, I want to use .06 or .08 but cant get ti into control properly. Sooooo... starting over. lol
Need a Micron Version of Clicky Clack door
West3d is working on those fyi.
@@TheVoronModder awesome can’t wait