Відео

status update? Were you able to get the XOL + Sherpa mounted with the AWD motors on top of beams? I've heard AWD needs to flip back motors back to bottom (which shouldn't interfere with any Z-motor shafts) when doing XOL...maybe it is only on Siboor CNC 9mm AWD?

I've heard XOL interferes with AWD with rear motors flipped on top of X-Y?

So crazy that a year later OGMP actually has a physical custom build plate now too 😅

What kit are you using for the trident?

Hi that integrated endstop mount for Y looks good :) can you share stls ? very thanks

What super slicer version your using with ellis profile?

The can board do no longer appers with ~/klippy-env/bin/python ~/klipper/scripts/canbus_query.py can0 from the moment klipper flashed over katapult. Should it be like this?

would love a video on these bed mounts

Can’t find the second pard what was mentioned at the end… Can someone post the link please? cheers edit: Never mind, already done…

Where can i find the ebb36 mount

Can you post an installation video of building the pulley stack.

would love to go awd on a voron trident 300. keep us up to date on the progress

you actually need content to get subscribers. I'm outa here

If this is part 3 why is it titled part 4? 🤔

maybe a little longer format? This felt more like a Shorts than a regular UA-cam video. Of course, if your metrics say otherwise 🤷

Hehe doodie

Nice, stls avail?

This is awesome! Cannot wait for the next update!

Steve Builds (Trident Creator) has a custom STL for the bottom motor mounts to allow a USB Camera cable to go through. Maybe that will work for your case. The STL is in the VoronUsers / printer_mods / StvPtrsn/

Monolith AWD. Carbon time beam. Upgrade and compare. Would be great to see. Thx.

AMAZING video!!! cool stuff

That Xol is pretty good stuff! Especially with the update with fewer printed parts. Love it.

NIce job. Looking forward to seeing what the results are for a 6month to year long test. But seriously cool AF

I'd be curious to know what behaviors you saw that made it so you couldn't get sensorless homing working. I've been able to get it working on every printer I owned, some easier than others. Voron 350 was the hardest, but figured it out eventually.

One word of caution. The filament in those hinges will dry out over time and break making the hinges break. Found out the hard way.

Love the small sherpas, so easy. They are almost maintenance free.

unless your going for INSANE precision 1.8 motors are alot better for acell and speed over 0.9 motors while having more torque and using the same amount of power i would always recommend LDO motors

Need a Micron Version of Clicky Clack door

the new thing with sherpas is the 6 thooth motor

can tophat still open?

@11:00 The blue Heatsink - so I've been told - goes onto the smaller TMC2209 Chip next to the Stepper Driver Connector - *_NOT_* the larger STM32 Chip 😁

You know what you should do.... Do a can update. So I am just updating klipper to .12 from .11 it broke many things, obviously. No one has a decent canbus update video, yet people struggle with it.

Hi, thanks for the guide, I have an issue though. I followed the guide exactly but it seems like config.json is having zero effect on Fluidd. My theme wouldn't show, so I deleted one of the other themes but they still show up. I also tried editing one of the other themes to be my theme but that had no effect either. Please help.

so when files ?

Hello! Help me please, I've been struggling with installing canbus for 2 days now. I have orange pi 5(Distributor ID: Debian Description: Armbian 24.2.1), bought an ebb36 board and a U2C module. At the very beginning, when creating the can0 file, it gave the error /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0 directory does not exist. I manually created the interfaces.d folder and the can0 file. With all further manipulations, I encountered the same problem: I did not see the device via can0. when I scanned the ip addr networks, I discovered that there was no can0 network. Maybe someone has encountered this problem. Thanks in advance!

Do you think the ASA heat resistance being a bit higher is worth the slight loss in durability? Typically ABS is a bit tougher while ASA has the higher heat resistance. (just from testing results I've seen)

Thank you guys for posting this, ive been struggling with installing can boot from a guide made over a year ago, many of the guides and links fork, or hyperlink you to something else and then the guide becomes useless because it no longer has the same commands as what the updated gguides use. Wish this was the first video I watched on installing can bus, would have saved me many hours

I have two humps? Am i doing something wrong?

So a couple issues with this "tutorial". Your co creator had everything already installed and assumed everyone understood beforehand what all the options are and does. This is WRONG! He should have started from a fresh, clean build. Also, what about if my results aren't the expected results?? (which they were) How to diagnose and troubleshoot would have been good as well. I found some of this video helpful, but the things I listed above warrant it to be done again PROPERLY! You aren't helping the community with "staged" tutorials like this! We need real world results and problem solving.

Dude, your blower fans are not seated in the rapid burner correctly

Great Tip on the WiNSCP! That will come in handy. Love the quick tips format keep them coming

You have an automatic and more reliable way of tuning it in orca slicer

The Clicky Clacky Door uses some rubber panel retention strips which I find help seal the enclosure quite a bit. The mini fridge doesn't look to have that. I'm thinking about getting a mini fridge door for my Pandora's Box but I'm slightly concerned that it'd help leak out of some of the heat from the enclosure. I'm trying to keep the temps up.

Does it include box zero frame? That would be a nice optional add on. Pleaseee

Are their kits for 2.4’s?

Happy wife, happy life! Use that discount code!

Keep the tuning videos coming!

I watched this twice because I wanted to confirm that in crazy. You don't say at all how you quantify 'Good' EM. You just say you know you like it at .97 How about an explanation or video of what to look for abs which way to adjust in each situation?

You're back!!

I think it's more accurate to take the hot end off the extruder, you should be extruding cold.