A Classic Picture Frame
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
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A picture frame is probably one of the first projects the average woodworker makes. As we acquire new skills, materials, and tools, a simple picture frame can turn into an exquisite work of art. If you're not careful, the frame can compete for attention with the art itself, which I think is a mistake. In my opinion, the frame should be the second thing the eye sees and should draw your attention to the art within the frame. So when Nicole asked me to make a frame for a special piece of artwork, I knew I'd need to pump the brakes a bit in hopes of designing a frame that was not only elegant and well-made, but also simple enough that it detract from the print.
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The notches in the back of the cutting tool can be use to snap the glass when making narrower cuts like you made.
I was going to add that the ball on the handle is there so you can gently 'tap' along the scored line. This will propagate the crack you have started when scoring the glass and make it easier to break away the waste. I used to do this with mess ups where I had to take a very thin strip off and with curves cut in the glass. It does take a bit of practice and the edge will not be as clean as a straight snap but you can blunt that with careful sanding. It is worth buying an extra bit just to practice on if you have never done glass cutting.
I loved your line that you go to your shop to ponder your life choices! LOL!
Thank you for your choices my friend!
Great job as always. I Would love to see Nicole’s mom’s reaction when she sees her long lost print. Happy Holidays and stay safe.
Outstanding!!!!! Memories to last a life time.
15:51 Truer words have never been spoken. Marc been watching TWW since 2007 - all the best to you, Nicole and the kids in 2021.
Really lovely frame and precise work. I would recommend using a passe partout so that the print isn't directly touching the glass to avoid any condensation causing mildew on it.
This simple picture frame turned out to be a lot less simple than I expected, but also MUCH more informative than I expected. Figured I’d just enjoy watching but actually learned a few nice tips. I appreciate how thorough you were with every step.
The domino is overkill tbh. Unless he’s subjecting that frame to a ton of abuse. Making holes with a forstner bit at the miter joints and putting in a dowel would be easier but also would be xtra.
Thanks for the 45 mitre check tip. Merry Christmas from Stillman Valley Illinois.
Great job!! You always put out great content. I just started wood working last year and I’ve come along way since then by watching your videos and others. Thank you for doing what you love and helping other learn how to do it too!
Nice build! I have a tip for finishing - you can actually install the screws that hold the panel in about halfway to use as a stand when applying finish to the front. Not as big a deal when you’re using an oil-wax finish, but useful for a lacquer or shellac
Great tip!
really love the way you make these video's with the close-ups and step-by-step explanation. Happy holidays from Holland (in lockdown, so time to make picture frames)!
Thanks for a basic project. You do so many amazing things but beyond my level just yet. Thank you.
You can do it!
Lovely job Marc! The walnut is gorgeous!
SIMPLY BEAUTIFUL, MARC!
Always like your practical videos. Thanks.
Sorry to hear about the tear in the prized photo - BUT, good news there is a miracle fix.
I learned a trick/fix from an old Librarian that paper is basically wood and tears are easily repaired with white glue.
First water down the white glue until it is really thin - somewhere between heavy cream and milk.
After that, take two sheets of wax paper. Place the torn piece pace down on top of one of the sheets of paper.
For a torn book, the book will be the vise, but for a single sheet you will need a book to put it in.
Make sure the tear is perfectly aligned then paint the thinned glue onto the tear. Don't overlay the pages you are actually gluing the fibers together. Use a pretty heavy coat but limit to the tear area.
After that, put the other wax paper sheet on top and close the book. Then put the book under something heavy and let it dry.
Once you open it up, the tear will be gone and often near invisible (if you caught it early enough).
I had a torn page in a Bible I repaired years ago (what prompted the trick) and I don't think I could find it.
Excellent job explaining the process! Thanks
Wow!! I will have to try this. Thanks
Another great video Marc. Can’t go wrong with OSMO on walnut. Really one of the biggest changes for me in the last year thanks to you. Eff you Arm-R-Seal. 😀
Turned out beautiful! Great tip about getting the miter correct!
Best Christmas sweater ever.
Remove from the “heel” of the miter! 👍🏻. Happy pondering too! Thanks Marc!
Thank you for taking the time to show great little tips & tricks :) Hope you & your lovely family have an awesome christmas, cheers, from Aus :D
My shop is where all my pondering takes place as well, thanks for the laugh! Nice work and Merry Christmas!
Great video, thanks Marc!
I like how you tuned your miter saw, I have few frames to make and wasn't confident in my miter saw. Now I know how to dial it in and finish the project I started in March
Hey...nice video you make...I like wood work as a hobby...I saw you cutting glass and breaking the glass with pliers witch is great...just gonna let you know that you can break your glass with the grooves on your glass cutter and the ball on the end of the cutter you can use to tap and start your break...thanks for your sharing
Very well done. You can see the man loves woodworking.
Beautiful walnut. The frame turned out very nice and I really liked the bevel. Thank you for explaining the process to cut glass too that will help me a lot. Cheers 👍😎🇦🇺
That's a beautiful frame.
The order of operations you choose was interesting to me and I can see why you did some things in the order you did but not others. Of course, if you had a dozen makers replicate the same frame you'd end up with as many different ways to do it. And the idea of all those people in the same room discussing why they each made the choices they did would be fascinating to me
Enjoyed this video and all your others by the way. Personally I like to cut the 4 pieces of the frame a couple inches long, route, bevel, correct, sand, whatever and then cut the miters. This walnut frame of yours is fabulous. I found the exact router bit in the back of my drawer and went straight to work., thanks
Merry Christmas!!!
Very well done .... you've made a very nice home for Chompers
Good video, love those clamps. Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Thanks, you too!
I always use plexi when I make frames.
It’s a bit more expensive but super easy to cut on a table saw and don’t have to worry about it breaking.
Omg that Jean Luc Picard shirt! I love ❤️ it…
Thanks Marc.
I dont think you've ever made a bad video marc! Another great one and Happy holidays!
Thanks and Happy holidays!
Nice , you are an expert , Thanks - Bronx, N.Y. Sat-Mar-13-2021 -
Really beautiful work, dude! It looks fantastic! 😃
Happy holidays! And stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Very nice - inspiring.
"If you don't wanna buy tiebond 2, then use 3. If you don't wanna use tiebond 3, then tint it. Or scratch everything and do whatever" LMAO
Beautiful frame, Marc. I loved how you tapered the face to meet the profile of the router bit. My daughter has "commissioned" me (for free of course) to make her a few frames to put a portion of a player piano scroll. I'm using your ideas!
Have at it! :)
Really nice video!
Perfect timing! My wife just asked me to make some picture frames.
Awesome- thanks! And FYI Lowes offers free glass cutting and it's cheaper than any other source I've found.
Prefect! I love walnet, its just the most beautiful wood, shame we don't get it in Ireland. Hey any suggestions if your frame gets warped after some time (100×100CM)? Thanks for sharing. Loved it as usual.
good job, nice vid
Looks great! Is there a reason you shaped the wood after cutting miters?
Thank you
Odd question maybe for this video...but on your table saw fence, do you have it setup perfectly parallel to the miter slots and the blade, or do you have it slightly "out of parallel" past the blade (to prevent possible binding between the blade and the fence)?
Great job as always. In minute 5:17 you cut a miter on you saw using a stop block. As a beginner I understand what you did but I'm having difficulties cutting angles that are opposite each other like in cross bracing while keeping the correct length.
Another red hot banger! Love your content man!
Glad you enjoy it!
Marc, how did you securely attach that extrusion to your fence? Thanks!
Hey Marc, great tip about taping down the ruler while cutting the glass, I’ll be using that one. I have a Powermatic table saw too and was wondering if you have another video that includes information about the extruded aluminum fence you have (attached to your Accu-fence). I’d like to find one for myself.
I believe we talked about it at some point. Search my site for "very super cool tools"
How did you attach the VSCT aluminum extrusion to your old biesemeyer style fence? TIA.
Those notches in the glass cutter can be used to help break off the thin strips of glass
Yup. But they don't really grip the off-cut and I didn't want the piece to fall. So the pliers did a decent job.
That is what I have used and if you tap on the glass on the line with the ball end of the handle it starts the crack to spread and makes it easier.
I love your work. I am not a wood worker and understand that this is a Woodworking video. However, this is a sentimental piece - CORRECT?
Never place your piece against the glass/plexiglass. Use a spacer - usually some type of mat. I suggest using an archival quality mat or spacers along the frame edge. Placing a piece against the glass will accelerate fading and deterioration. You can also use UV filtering and anti-glare glass varieties.
Attach the art piece with archival tape (hinge-style) or archival (non-acidic) adhesive to a backer (foam core board) to prevent movement. And always enclose the back of a sentimental or special piece with a dust cover. I use paper....easily done.
The frame is outstanding. The tutorial is great. But I thought the art work should not come in contact with the glass as it could stick to the glass. If the art work sticks to the glass it would be impossible to replace a broken glass without destroying the art work. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay healthy.
Yes, artwork should never touch the glass. It should be in a mat. Also, the sawtooth hangers are not very good. Picture wire and bumpers
on the bottom are better for hanging artwork. Great job.
I WANT THAT PICARD SWEATER SO MUCH!!!!
amzn.to/3mqUpRA
@@woodwhisperer Thanks, but.... they're sold out at the moment... Maybe on my Christmas list for 2021
This is Good
Marc, that sweater, tho. 👌
Nevermind your amazing craftsmanship.... Where do I find that sweater!? Most of your torso apparel is pretty rad.
Here you go. :) amzn.to/3mqUpRA
I would use art grade material between the art and backer. The art may yellow due to the interaction of acid base material.
festool boy )))
They make some pliers for breaking the glass. Also that little ball on the end is to tap it so the break goes farther. Also the little notches in the side are for grabbing the glass and breaking it. Also, you want a 1/16 or so for expansion and contraction. The glass moves just like the frame. If it dead on it will bind and crack.
With breaking a small amount of Glass. Hold the glass over the edge of your bench, and with the ball of the tool tap the other side along the scratch. That will start the break. For smaller off cuts it makes it insanely easy. That's what the ball is for
What is that overarm dust collection you have for your table saw at 21:40? Is that custom or commercial?
I cant believe you've been active on UA-cam for 14 Years!
another tip: knock lightly at the other side of your cut (with the cuttingtool) before breaking
I have found some good non-titebond wood glues that don't have as much color when dried & eliminate most of the original/dark/tinted conversation
Looks great! Is there a benefit to cutting the miters before shaping?
Good question. I’ve been framing for some time and I’ve never cut miters before the profile was shaped, so this seemed odd to me.
I was thinking about just ordering the very super cool tools extrusion to attach to my powermatic fence, and see see that is what you did, so I am guessing the fence and t square from them didn't work out in the end....
thanks
Do you sand between coats of hard wax finish?
Would something like the jess-em guide rails help reduce the risk and provide support for the mitered cuts you did?
Maybe. They primarily provide downward pressure so I'm not sure how well they'd work on a thin piece of stock in that orientation. might be worth a shot though.
I did what you did, I bought an extrusion and attached it to my powermatic fence!!!
Planning to make some frames in the near future. I got your free project plans on TWW guild and they are great. Two questions; for those of us without the domino, any tips for using biscuits? Also, wasn’t sure if it was my eyes deceiving me but the sawtooth hanger looked like it had a tooth instead of a notch in the dead center position which would affect the way it hangs. Did I just mis count? Keep up the great work, and hope you have more videos coming soon.
You counted correctly. Really not sure why the teeth are made that way. I guess they just assume the art will be off-balance so why not?! I purposely shifted the mounting point over slightly to make sure there's a gap at the center point. As for using a biscuit, it's exactly the same as using the Domino. For a project like this just use the smallest size you can.
Nice build as always. Well done. Not sure about calling reaching around the blade a “ calculated risk” however. Seems like a push stick would have accomplished the same pressure and would have a lot less of a calculated risk
Your blade was maybe 2” exposed. At that height this risk is loss of fingers, not a band aid
Love your stuff
Where do you go for that type of router bit to make the more advanced profile (and if online, what searchterm do you use to find something like that)?
I have links in the writeup.
@@woodwhisperer thank you. I should have checked there first.
What is the “oil wax finish” you are using? Did not find it on your Amazon page. Thank you
Rubio Monocoat.
Sometimes I nice classic yet simple frame is what's needed, What I like to do with frames is pass each piece throw the bandsaw adding a sorta elongated sine wave pattern and gluing a differently color wood the thickness of the kerf of the blade and gluing the 3 parts back together. It's not hard to tell how midsize woodworking shops use to make a decent amount of money using up all their offcuts to make frames for the local photo development stores, When developing photos was a thing( there is a mini-rant in there i just know it), Most of the time frames were not even glues together but staples like roof rafters, The trick with cutting glass is not cheaping out on your glass cutter, I use to struggle cutting glass having only the local hardware store cheap China imports cutters, Then I spent real money on one that the big boys use in glass cutting shops and that changed everything.
You could for the sanding create mirror pieces of the miter with domino mortises. Put it on the piece and you now have a rectangle piece to clamp.
Beautiful piece. One problem however is in placing the art work directly against the glass. In time the glass will stick to the art work and if the glass is broken, the art work will be ruined. A matt board will prevent this and can be recessed out of sight.
You beat me to it. Was going to say the exact same thing.
“This is where I come to ponder my life choices.”
:)
The opening was like an episode of Antiques Roadshow. I was just waiting for Marc to let Nicole know the actual value of the print.
"I'm sorry to inform you, this is worth less than zero dollars."
What finish did you use on this? You said hardwax oil, so I expected Rubio Monocoat, but you grabbed it out of the can, so it wasn't a 2 part?
That was Osmo.
Marc, in the Guild series, do you go over how to size the frame for a given piece of art?
We don't. The goal was to hit some common frame sizes and adjustments could be made from there.
Awesome Picard sweater, where did you get it? 😃
amzn.to/3mqUpRA
Wonderful job on the frame and glasswork. Unfortunately the enemy of art works is acid, acid in the paper, the woods, the finishes and backing sheets. The frame must be cut much larger than the artwork to allow for the matt board and backing. Art work must be matted, that is it must have a border of acid free cardboard cut and beveled to fit the art. The second layer is the art work and while it might be on acidic paper it must be backed and taped to an acid free backing board. Only then can the final backing sheet be placed on. The final step is to seal the artwork sandwich with good quality acid free tape to prevent dust and moisture entering from the back of the frame. If an art work is worth framing it is worth doing everything to ensure it lasts.
I totally get what you're saying Philip. But this print was saved from an old piece of luggage in a garage. I think this is still a step up. :)
Hey Marc, what’s the brand of push stick you use at 24:51?
Craftsman. I don't believe they make it anymore.
@@woodwhisperer 😢
I live in St Charles Missouri! Is there more to the story involving St Charles?
It’s where Nicole’s mom grew up
For reaching around to the back of the blade, is there a reason you don't use a pencil eraser or something similar to act as a holding point instead of your finger?
Because I felt my finger was safe enough for my purposes at the time. A pencil sounds like a good idea.
For the bevel cut on the table saw, could one have used feather boards to reduce the awkwardness of reaching around the blade? Maybe one at the top and one behind the blade?
I thought a feather board behind the blade was a big no-no
If you can get the featherboard up high enough so it only touches the top profile, yes that would work.
@@stevesteves8915 While that was my impression too, not sure it'd be any worse that moving your hand near the blade;-) I think it should work as long as you keep the riving knife in place.
Great video but the most important specification was never even covered. How to measure the rabbets to fit the artwork?
In the video you cut the side pieces to length using the miter saw and then you cut the decorative profile and dados in the shorter pieces. Would there be any advantage/dissadvantage to cutting the decorative profiles and dado in the full length piece of stock and then cutting the pieces to length on the miter saw?
Yes. The profiles cause more trouble for the miter-cutting as they commit you to an orientation. So you'd have to move the miter saw to the other side of 90 for half the cuts.
@@woodwhisperer Really good point, thanks for clarifying
Great looking frame. What do you estimate is the total time on that project?
I, guessing it’s easier to get away with escaping to the shop to run away from wild kids when it’s for a mother in law or wife project.
One day of woodworking. Add a day for finishing.
If you inserted your dominos you could clamp against them
Why were you made the rabbit you used a step instead of having a glass in your back or in the same rabbit?
Is acrylic an acceptable alternative to glass?
Structurally yes. I've used it in the past. But for folks who are really into this stuff, you have to be careful about reactivity with the artwork. So do some research before you commit.
Glass is superior in almost every way except that it is heavy and brittle. I used acrylic to frame a poster-sized art print because it was something like 10 lbs lighter than the same glass panel.
@@woodwhisperer Archival picture framing is a skill unto itself. Having ruined some artwork (fortunately my own and not a customer's) by placing it in contact with the glass, and by using backing materials that leach or off gas stuff that deteriorates the art work, I was cringing the whole time you were assembling the package. It will probably be fine, though, for the expected life of this project. I did find the construction of the frame valuable and will put that information to good use. :-) Maybe you could find a link to a picture framing site where folks can learn more about the technical details and add that to your info.
Most museums and galleries prefer acrylic as it's less prone to shattering and resulting in torn artwork. I believe insurance on artwork is easier to obtain with conservation acrylic as well (not 100% on this, I'm no broker). Acrylic is far lighter for use when the artwork is larger and/or you have a very narrow frame (which are very in style right now). Conservation acrylic tends to be at least 4x more expensive than conservation glass. The shop I used to work at paid something like $800 per 4' x 8' sheet of acrylic. Use a acrylic cleaner that removes the static charge so the artwork doesn't cling to it (your art should be appropriately spaced away from the glazing anyways). I've also seen those static gun things but never used one.
Considering what this print has already endured and survived, it'll do just fine and be much better off in its new frame. :)