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A spline jig can easily be made by running a cross brace across a traditional crosscut sled, and then clamping your picture frame to that cross brace. That way, you don't need to build a new jig. I make sure the picture frame has three points of contact, the base of the sled, the cross brace that it's clamped to, and the back fence of the sled. This also allows me to mark 45 degrees on the crosscut sled where the picture frame edge lands and I can make repeatable cuts that are "close enough" for splines.
The tape trick to help mitigate the tear out is a good one! I feel I've deen or heard before, but always forget and never deen on cutting splines. A great reminder and tip either way. Hopefully i actually remember to use next time, lol
Thank you for this instruction video. I used such a glass cutter in stained glass class. The ball on the end is for gently tapping the glass, which causes the glass to gradually make small micro-cracks along the line until it practically falls apart along the line. Patient, gentle tapping was the way I made gradual curves, etc. happen exactly along the ONE pass I made with the cutter wheel.
Great intro .... the creacked overlay was realy unique. It would be interesting to see how to route decorative profiles into the frame face ... does it affect the measuring/cutting?
I might have missed it, but you definitely want to make sure the backer board is slightly undersized, especially if using bendable splines as other wise you'll have a lot of trouble getting the board (and glass if needed) out when changing art or cleaning
I think cutting the rabbit before assembly is better than doing it with a rabbiting bit and router. Saves the time and work chiseling out the corners. I try to do as little chiseling as I can. Good ways to connect corners in your video. I'll try them out. I think I like the spline corners best. No idea why.
Good video, good tips. I find the dowel as a joint too tricky to try. if you're off even by a little the whole corner is terrible. I like using splines as they strengthen the joint and also add a nice touch of good design.
Excellent Class/Video. Thank You. That lightning frame was very cool, but I wonder if it's worth using Oak. Would a stained piece of Pine work? Oak is so expensive. But beautiful work.
It's made by Milescraft. I'd suggest the Bow products though, they make one that's thats much taller for resawing and still works if the outer face is uneven
The conversion from inches to metric are (welcome but) waaaay more precise than they need to be. After all, you won't be using inches and millimetres on the same project. For anything that is an inch and under: 1" = 24mm, 1/8" = 3mm and 5/8" = 15mm, etc. For anything that is an inch and over: 1" = 25mm, 10" = 250mm, 12" = 300mm, etc. There's never a need to go to tenths or hundredths of a mm. At exactly 1" choose either 24mm or 25mm whichever is more appropriate locally. Sounds a bit odd at first but simplifies conversions enormously.
Wow. That has got to be the absolute best video I have ever viewed about making picture frames. The frame with the cracked surface is bothbeautiful and brilliant. I am so happy I am subscribed to your channel. Thank you. Dave & The Girls
Some great tips Billy thanks for all the work you put in, how about a video on floating frames? can you use your table saw mitre jig for floating frames? how to calculate measurements using jig etc.
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Thanks, great tutorial. Very good you have included metric measurements. Glad we are metric is Australia. Well done.
A spline jig can easily be made by running a cross brace across a traditional crosscut sled, and then clamping your picture frame to that cross brace. That way, you don't need to build a new jig. I make sure the picture frame has three points of contact, the base of the sled, the cross brace that it's clamped to, and the back fence of the sled. This also allows me to mark 45 degrees on the crosscut sled where the picture frame edge lands and I can make repeatable cuts that are "close enough" for splines.
The tape trick to help mitigate the tear out is a good one!
I feel I've deen or heard before, but always forget and never deen on cutting splines.
A great reminder and tip either way.
Hopefully i actually remember to use next time, lol
Thank you for this instruction video. I used such a glass cutter in stained glass class. The ball on the end is for gently tapping the glass, which causes the glass to gradually make small micro-cracks along the line until it practically falls apart along the line. Patient, gentle tapping was the way I made gradual curves, etc. happen exactly along the ONE pass I made with the cutter wheel.
Absolutely great video lesson so many great tips and tricks definitely going to give these a try. Thanks for sharing Billy
Great intro .... the creacked overlay was realy unique. It would be interesting to see how to route decorative profiles into the frame face ... does it affect the measuring/cutting?
Great tutorial, Billy. I alwys enjoy seeing someone else's techniques and learning from their tips.
Bill
Excellent tutorial. Thank you, from Ireland.
I think my comment below went with another of your videos. These videos are excellent and a joy to watch. Cannot wait until I have a workshop!
I might have missed it, but you definitely want to make sure the backer board is slightly undersized, especially if using bendable splines as other wise you'll have a lot of trouble getting the board (and glass if needed) out when changing art or cleaning
Finally had a chance to watch. Great tutorial.
Very nice ending product wish you make a framing video for those of us that have only basic tools
I think cutting the rabbit before assembly is better than doing it with a rabbiting bit and router. Saves the time and work chiseling out the corners. I try to do as little chiseling as I can. Good ways to connect corners in your video. I'll try them out. I think I like the spline corners best. No idea why.
Good video, good tips. I find the dowel as a joint too tricky to try. if you're off even by a little the whole corner is terrible. I like using splines as they strengthen the joint and also add a nice touch of good design.
Great vid - thanks.
What a brilliant video
great video very comprehensive
Excellent Class/Video. Thank You. That lightning frame was very cool, but I wonder if it's worth using Oak. Would a stained piece of Pine work? Oak is so expensive. But beautiful work.
Good teacher. Thanks!
I would have gone with Lichtenstein but the cracks came out pretty cool.
thanks
Another good learning lesson. Watching the loose tenon potion was a great pitch for having a Domino.😁 JimE
Very informative and while it took me a bit to get to watching, i dont mimd the long format
Great video! The only thing forgotten was the "C" in the word picture that was said 100+ times.
Can that miter jjig (with the metal framing square) be used with a SawStop tablesaw?
Great video Billy although I was always under impression an inch was 2.5cm not 4.4?? Great advice and didn't mind the video being long. 🏴👍
Great video but where did you get the dowel jig from.
The shirt you are wearing in the video, where can I get one?
Ooo. 1mm bit on the CNC cutting an ornate pattern in the thin stock instead of cracks....
Why couldn't you use the spline jig you made earlier foe boxes?
How do you avoid snipe on such a short board through your planer? All I get is major snipe on my DW735
What is the featherboard you used for resawing on your tablesaw?
It's made by Milescraft. I'd suggest the Bow products though, they make one that's thats much taller for resawing and still works if the outer face is uneven
7:45 *90°
The conversion from inches to metric are (welcome but) waaaay more precise than they need to be. After all, you won't be using inches and millimetres on the same project. For anything that is an inch and under: 1" = 24mm, 1/8" = 3mm and 5/8" = 15mm, etc. For anything that is an inch and over: 1" = 25mm, 10" = 250mm, 12" = 300mm, etc. There's never a need to go to tenths or hundredths of a mm. At exactly 1" choose either 24mm or 25mm whichever is more appropriate locally. Sounds a bit odd at first but simplifies conversions enormously.
I go to a YMCA in NC. I highly doubt anything like this would happen in my neck of the woods. If it did, I’d quit my membership in a heartbeat.
what are you talking about Biden
Why not use a mitre saw ?
Did anyone see his Superman shirt as a spline jig? 😂😂😂
Yep switching off
👍👍
I can remember the imperial days.
14m
5:32 just the tip
Lol, I'm soo immature 😔
Wow. That has got to be the absolute best video I have ever viewed about making picture frames. The frame with the cracked surface is bothbeautiful and brilliant. I am so happy I am subscribed to your channel. Thank you. Dave & The Girls
do you have plans for the jog for cutting miters for picture frame? Do you sell them? Where can I buy one?
Some great tips Billy thanks for all the work you put in, how about a video on floating frames? can you use your table saw mitre jig for floating frames? how to calculate measurements using jig etc.