Okay folks, I posted this video to show people how I sharpen a chain, especially on a customer's saw. There are dozens of different opinions around this topic and in the video I'm not trying to persuade anyone, simply showing one way that works every single time. But since a number of folks that follow other channels have decided to point out to me how wrong I am, now I'll do a little persuading. My method takes a lot of steps out that can trip the average user up. Yes, chain teeth can be different lengths and still cut good. HOWEVER for that to work, you must file each depth gauge to match each tooth, each time you sharpen the chain. I'd guess that many saw users don't even own a depth gauge, let alone have ever used one. Simply looking at a chain with mismatched tooth lengths will demonstrate that this is going to cause some sort of abnormal wear. Chainsaw teeth taper back as they wear; if one side is filed down an 1/8" more than the other, the high side ends up doing more work, as it protrudes farther into the cut. It stands to reason that the bar rail on the high side will end up having more pressure applied to it, hence faster wear on that side. For every 10 used bars I see come through my shop, 8-9 have significant wear. Whether it's chunking out of the rails, low spots, spread rails, tapered rails or some combination of all of these, it all comes back to the chain maintenance. Bars will wear over time, but how you maintain the chain determines a lot of how quickly they wear and how badly they deteriorate. I am a firm believer that the BEST method of chain maintenance is to keep your chain teeth the same length and if you have the ability, match the raker heights to the teeth. That's what I recommend based on my experience and I can assure you that I've cut hundreds of cords of wood. I've sharpened hundreds of chains and when I was a beginner, I made many of the mistakes that I now try to help people avoid. For the guys that watch Buckin' Billy Ray's channel, I really don't need your commentary about how how much I can learn from him. I enjoy his channel from time to time myself. If I wanted to learn about climbing, falling or restoring old axes, he'd be a really good source of knowledge. When it comes to saw repairs and maintenance, I don't need to look to his channel as my knowledge and experience speaks for itself. If you've just watched one of his videos and come here to tell me how wrong I am, do me a favor and keep it to yourself. I'm not at all interested in hearing it...if you want to have an intelligent conversation about something, contact me through my website: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/contact.html
Very well stated Leon. I enjoy Buckin's channel also and I appreciate the both of you sharing your skill and expertise. I enjoy learning from both of you and a few others too. I think you're doing a fine job and hope you continue to share your experience. There's a ton of videos claiming to show the "right" way to sharpen chain. In the end we have to decide what's gonna work for our own situation. I use a grinder and I like it for the consistency and the speed. I also sharpen by hand sometimes and have had good results that way too. One of the things I like about hanging out in your channel is the no nonsense way you have of explaining what you're doing without all the flashy special effects and graphics. Just a guy calmly doing his thing and teaching anyone willing to learn. That, plus I have 6 Homelites that I like to keep running! Love the older saws.
I watch Buckins channel and he has some one do most all of his repairs and runs modified saws most of the time. When it comes to When it comes to saw repairs and maintenance. Your channel. I didn't read the comments but you hit the nail on the head.
Well said sir I know ur method works since watching this I just used it earlier so he'll with what others think it works . Thanks again for your help and video.
Forget all the so called experts who provide with negative comment. Your info is spot on. I have been using an "Efco Jolly" grinder for the past few years now. I have 3 saws, Husky 450, Husky 365 and a crap Ryobi (don't take it out in the bush though. I cut 13 to 15 tonne of good old Australian Hardwood per year and use it at the house. I take 3 chains per saw with me and cut my wood into 14'" rounds 24" thick. I load about 1 tonne per trip. I change the chain each tank of fuel. or when I hit rock in the dirt! On my return home it takes no more than 4 or 5 minutes per chain and they are ready for the next trip. Been using the method you so accurately describe for all that time and have always achieved great results. keep up the good work!
Thanks Frank! The methods described in this video are certainly not the only way to maintain a chain...but they are tried & true and will deliver the same results each time.
It all depends on how wore down or put into the dirt . I can get two or three days cuttings i do hand file twice a day or as needed depending on amount of wood cut.
I, also, have a Roughneck Sharpener. My problem is the Tilting Deck settings. Some chains claim to need a 0 degree angle, some a 10 degree angle. Unfortuneatly, I can't find anywhere what those three markings are supposed to be. The instruction manual for this area of settings are clear as mud. I know this video was posted a long time ago, but if anybody can tell me which angle is 0 degrees, which is 5 degrees, and which mark is 10 degrees, you'd sure make this old man a happy camper. They show up very clear at time 2:44. Thank you for any help you or anyone else can supply.
If your talking about the tilt and the three marks you see at th base that is for chisel chains those are 10 degree o degree and 10 degree against your doing right hand cutters you loosen up th table and push the knob away from you it will line up with another mark on the base plate that's 10 degrees if it left hand cutters you pull the bottom of the table towards and the bros will line up again and it's set 10 degrees for left hand cutters this has absolutely nothing to do with the proper angle though . like I said this addresses full chisel chains only . semi chisel or anything else you leave that part centered. Some full chisel.still chains don't even require this adjustment. If you use Oregon full chisel chain you will use this. If your doing all the rest if the settings right younwill.have a very sharp saw but your starting to sacrifice safety kick back and other such undesirable issues with this its very sharp but gets dull quicker if that makes sense.
late to the party with this comment but thanks for your video. I read down the comments and was kind of surprised at the number of misinformed and less than sharp viewers....and a fair number of smart asses. The grinder is an excellent tool for reproducible, consistent sharpening of cutters and setting of depth gauges. They are not meant to be carried to the woods like some comments mentioned. And the set up to sharpen is quick and easy once you understand what needs to be done. The way I use them is to have several sharp chains, do no filing in the field, bring the stuff home and tend to chains in the shop. I have not found the pink wheels to be junk either, used correctly they do a fine job and lend themselves to dressing to a face shape you want with the dressing stick. The real key to using these is to be accurate in set up then take very, very small cuts, that way the metal does not overheat I would bet many of the negative comments reflect the lack of knowledge about cutter geometry and sharpening procedures. I have had the Oregon model for more than 25 years now and still the same OEM wheel on it. I milled logs with an Alaskan mill and relied on this grinder to produce well sharpened chain in a short time.
A suggestion, swap out the filament bulb on the grinder & replace with a LED one. Less heat generated & more light output for energy input. Really see what you are working on !
No flame intended you need both. The grinder if the chain hit the ground and was tilling the rocky soil. The grinder if teeth were broken off a like new chain and the repair kits changed out the bad teeth. A file for a quick touch up if the chain looks ok. I do use the file more.
Just picked up this same grinder at a tractor show for 20 bucks figured I've been wanting one for a while and figured it looked like my dads tecomec hydraulic one but without hydraulics.
Hi Leon I have that same sharpener and I have a hill of a time move the base to 10 degrees. I was thinking of taking it off and greasing the bottom or taking a wire wheel to it. Any suggestion would be appreciated. I am worried the grease might hold the metal shavings and get worse. The teeth come out sharp but I think they could be better. I am cutting hard wood. Oak mostly.
That's the one real flaw of this sharpener...the tilt base isn't the smoothest. There is a small ball under there to act as a detent, so be careful if you take it off. I just loosen the knob up pretty much all the way whenever I have to tilt, especially tilting the chain back. There is a spot weld that catches the big washer, so you have to reach up there and guide the washer over the weld.
Hi Leon I have that same grinder and I love it. I still have those 3 saws we agreed on but I have been out of commision for to long. Waiting on my last surgery which is going to be a new hip some time around the end of June and will contact you when I get caught up and get the saws boxed. Great video keep up the good work. Ted
I'm sorry to hear the medical stuff has still got you down! I just had a big abdominal hernia sewed up on the 16th, so I'm on "light duty" for another month, but I'm sure glad to have that all done. I wish you the best with the new hip and when you are ready on those saws, I'll be here. Take care!
I have an Oregon which has been used sparingly over 10 years. I have a big problem with the chain dragging on the back end when I advance it despite trying adjustments. I always have to pick it up. Any suggestions? You have a very calm pleasant way of presenting. Thanks.
Very good video my grinding wheel doesn’t have the option to tilt the chain didn’t even know that was a thing something to keep in mind also I use Alaska sawmills and it is a 60° even on the ripping chains
I sharpened all my chains by hand until a neighbor gave me a chain grinder. It's a lot better, especially on the long chains to get the thing to cut straight with the grinder.
Can you explain the tilt angle a little better.. you mentioned 10 degrees but didn’t actually use that. My grinder doesn’t have that tilt feature Do I really need it?
Being 5ft.6in.,what would be a working height to mount the bottom of the base of grinder in a comfortable work position? Also, would you do a video on the rake filing to maintain the suggested bites the tooth should be in to provide smooth cutting flow.
I noticed you do not loosen and tighten the vise clamp lever when you move from cutter to cutter. It looks as though you leave it semi tight so the chain will still move while pulling back with your left hand to apply tension against the stop. Does that work well for you? It looks like to me it is one less thing to do and a time saver.
Well I do still use the vise, but I've found I get a more consistent grind if I pull back slightly to seat the tooth against the stock. Honestly the tensioning part of this grinder isn't the greatest.
I've got same grinder there is an adjustment for the vice tension part . its there . it requires a little Fiennes just like all the other adjustments . you use an allen take a look a little closer its there I see other videos where people miss that also . when you get the tension on that set right it will make the tooth set itself upright in the cradle so to speak for lack of a better way to put it. I'm not a professional took me a while to figure it out myself but it's there . everything else you've said is spot on and I did it just like you did till I caught on to how to adjust that clamp properly I think you're go to see it makes a difference when you use your machine. Not trying to be mean spirtted about it.
I don't mind the longer videos at all, keep em coming ! I've been trolling the internet looking for a Silvey reasonably priced but have struck out so far, someday though....someday. A friend gave me a blue/white XL-12 that I'm looking forward to get running, I may be asking for your advice on a few things. Looks like a pretty nice/complete saw, time will tell....... thank you for the videos !
Grinder or file. As long as they cut to your likeing. Realy dont matter. On a grinder you can make a chain. Cut. So much it will stall a saw out. Chain wont stay sharp long. So. 30 deg 60 deg and 10deg set back. Nice slow grinds. Youll be happy. I can change a chain faster then any one can file.
One question I have is there an adjustment for the arm that you use to lock the chain in? Mine always seems to come loose and I have to hold it in place. I can't figure out what the bolts with the lock nuts on. I have tried to move them in and out and I can't see or feel any movement when I adjust them. I also use 30 degree's
Nope, this model you have to hold the clamp while you grind. No lock at all. The bolts with the lock nuts are for centering the vise that the grinder will cut the same from both sides of the chain.
I just had this problem. There is a snap ring that holds the handle on. Take that off and remove the handle, after that is removed there is a large nut under the handle. Tighten that up, it didn't take much. I removed the vise completely by unscrewing the angle adjustment knob, just be careful lifting it off because there are springs under it.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair , same as Chris below, but also carefully grind a curve in vice rail same radius as cam lock. Not too deep, but it allows the cam to " bite" & stay locked tight despite vibration of running motor. Vintage Oregon had abovementioned & gripped. New copy didn't & couldn't get to adjust cam bolt adjusted to hold till created above. Hope make sense & helps. Very informative content, your videos. 👏💯
I used to be able to file a chain by hand, and have it cut sweet, for thirty years or more. I guess I got old. Now my hand filing always cuts curves, in spite of my best efforts. I've got an Oregon machine coming soon. I can't wait to have decently sharp chains again! Good lesson in chain filing. Thanks!
Trial and error I'm afraid! In theory it is supposed to center the chain so that no matter which cutter you are grinding (right or left), you don't have to adjust the depth. I've got mine close, but I'm still 1/2 a turn off...I gave up and just remember the 1/2 turn when I switch sides!
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair, I have been having similar challenge & find the adjustment very fickle. Wonder if the adjusting screw were changed for a one with a finer pitch, thus allowing an easier accurate setting? Such as UNF, rather than metric.
My new Oregon 520 is leaving a huge burr on top of the cutter. Anyone have an idea of what's going on? TIA I think I will try your technique of taking small bites with the grinder wheel.
The burr is due to the direction of the cutting wheel rotation...the older models of grinders could run in both directions to match the tooth being ground, but the safety laws did away with that feature. Shorter "bites" and removing less length of the tooth at once can help control the amount of burr created. The metal that is left behind is brittle though and comes off in the first cut or two, leaving behind a sharp tooth.
Hi Leon I had a question Are you using the sharpener for just Oregon chains or have you had success in using it on stihl chains? I was thinking about getting a sharpener like this like the Oregon 410 but when I looked up a lot of reviews on it people upset Oregon's documentation only shows the angles for their chains and that there's little to no literature online of how to set up a grinder for the stihl chain. I was curious if you've done Stihl chain as well and had success?
Oh yeah, they are all very close to the same and I've been known to set my own angles! The backplate angle (tilt of the grinding head) is easily adjustable and that's about the only variable between the manufacturers that might not be a constant. Stihl chain tends to "burn" with lower quality grinding wheels (the less expensive pink ones), so you'd want to run a nice resinoid wheel.
I have a grinder similar to yours and it came with those junk pink wheels also. Once you get your hands on a resinoid wheel @t you will throw those pink wheels in the trash like I did. They do not heat up the cutters and blue them removing the temper, you will grind in half the time.
In reality there are a lot of chains that has been hardened and overheated by grinders. The hardened edge is not sharp. And it is not possible to file.
Now that's the fault not the operator there ZTE various ways to keep from overheating . in regards to the operator of the saw I offer this . Some of you don't know when to quit when you've run your saw in the dirt in rocks or fence wire . you think you can continue to horse the saw and you think that's what the dog Paul is for . you absolutely will ruin a brand new chain that God himself can't fix . I've seen thus happy and you have to file away half the teeth to get it to cut right again then you get passed off at the guy who sharpened he saw and compost e took off way to much material . and some of you are arrogant enough that you swear you can fix it with your file. You can't do it and you bring me your chain you've ruined I can see it in a heart beat.
If you started with your most damaged tooth wouldn't you be prematurely shortening the overall life of the chain. If 99 percent of the teeth are good why would you want to bring them all down to the lowest common denominator?
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair True, but many, many times I have seen only 3-5 teeth damaged badly on one side and the rest somehow didn't get affected.
@@yearginclarke Absolutely. The 3-5 teeth are the ones that will get filed down and be so much lower than the rest of the chain that they break off before the rest of the chain is worn out. It's really a catch-22 no matter what you do. If part of the chain ends up badly damaged, the overall life of the chain is shortened no matter what.
If you are sharpening a lot of chains, why not go with CBN grinding wheels. I love them. They leave a better edge then the pink wheels thus cutting longer and the thing hardly wear out , making them cheaper in the long run.
Honestly that's what I started with as well. I've said many times that for homeowners or people that want an upgrade, but don't have a need for the expensive ones, the Harbor Freight model is not a bad option.
That's what I have and it works OK for my needs. But, I find that after grinding a chain, I still need to touch it up a little with a file for maximum sharpness.
Sort of. I have a wheel that I shaped to a slight taper, so I can manually file the first one to the proper height and then set the depth stop on the machine to do the rest. It works pretty well, but not perfect.
Boa tarde preciso da sua ajuda eu tenho uma motosserras Homelite Super 2 a maquina quando esta a trabalhar deita o olio pelo escape pode-me ajudar.Obrigado
Files all I need..i have a grinder but it doesn't seem to leave much of a gullut for my tooth ..can cut 20 cords of wood a year with file, verse 10 if I use my grinder..chains for my ms660 are expensive lol and I'm cheap
And to dense to learn how to operate don't far more simple and correct for your chins. Same old excuse you can't sharpen a chain with a file and keep it. Correct for ever I hear those claims when they come to me and want the a goes straw again in see the real mess you and filers really make only person you've convinced is yourself
Tooth length has no effect on h ow the chain will cut, and it will not cause any excess of or uneven wear to the bar. This has been proven in demonstrations many times.
That is true if the depth gauges are all set properly and all teeth are actually sharp at the proper angle. Many people fail to sharpen both sides of the chain at the same angle and almost never touch the depth gauges. So for the novice or average user, keeping the tooth length the same helps mitigate some of the problems that can arise from not following a complete sharpening routine. I just know how many bars come through the shop that have massive wear to one side...there's a reason the Barshop gets so much use!
bobe8888 I’m an old cutter an I totally agree. I have for yrs ground chains an in field filed to a round from chisel grind. If this guy would just sharpen his teeth an then put the flat raker file guide on each feed raker and file them to each tooth’s distance for correct length each tooth will cut the same way. And will cut like a raped ape! As us old cutters use to say! Hehe
I use to think the same thing as you stated about the cutters being the same length, I have a video showing a chain with 2 cutters missing and I ground the rest of the cutters on that side so they are half as long as the other side and because the drags are set correctly the chain still cuts like new and straight. ua-cam.com/video/rKN3p_QwhCQ/v-deo.html
If you did that, you'd be grinding the back of the tooth not the front (just picture the cutters, normally they face the right and if you flip the chain they then face the left).
Oh, forgot to mention, I have a Harbor Freight chain grinder... So much slop, that even with care, it just can't do the job any better than my old hands.
Suggest take up slop with bush on pivot pin or degrease & take up with epoxy two part glue. Have used a piece of scrap tape measure blade to do this repair.
I use just a file and a file handle, unless the teeth are worn so bad that I cannot pick up their angles. Then I will use a file guide. I have a grinder but I can sharpen several chains before I get that sob set up.
It’s a teaching video so he’s taking time to explain what’s he doing and problems to watch out for. Once you set your bench grinder to your preference it doesn’t take much time to sharpen.
Fun fact I do better without a file guild 😂 and got lots of guides files and a chain grinder that has been used so little it ant even tarnished and the disk is basically new
I don't see it. Too fiddly. I like my file. Besides, dragging that thing in and out of the woods is ridiculous. I don't have an extension cord that long.
Standing there grinding your chains away! Your just as bad as the chainsaw repair man! Oh wait that is what you are! At least you are honest and grind your own chains away! I too have a grinder and all it really takes it two to three very light touches on most chains, unless you cut a nail or big rock? Then they is all on you and your bar and tip control!
@@geesss8675 And that is what billy is he does do any real repairs just simple stuff. He is good at feeling trees and he can hand file and he also uses a grinder. There is no comparing the two channels. There is nothing Billy is going to teach Leon.
I have a grinder similar to yours and it came with those junk pink wheels also. Once you get your hands on a resinoid wheel @t you will throw those pink wheels in the trash like I did. They do not heat up the cutters and blue them removing the temper, you will grind in half the time.
Okay folks, I posted this video to show people how I sharpen a chain, especially on a customer's saw. There are dozens of different opinions around this topic and in the video I'm not trying to persuade anyone, simply showing one way that works every single time. But since a number of folks that follow other channels have decided to point out to me how wrong I am, now I'll do a little persuading. My method takes a lot of steps out that can trip the average user up. Yes, chain teeth can be different lengths and still cut good. HOWEVER for that to work, you must file each depth gauge to match each tooth, each time you sharpen the chain. I'd guess that many saw users don't even own a depth gauge, let alone have ever used one.
Simply looking at a chain with mismatched tooth lengths will demonstrate that this is going to cause some sort of abnormal wear. Chainsaw teeth taper back as they wear; if one side is filed down an 1/8" more than the other, the high side ends up doing more work, as it protrudes farther into the cut. It stands to reason that the bar rail on the high side will end up having more pressure applied to it, hence faster wear on that side.
For every 10 used bars I see come through my shop, 8-9 have significant wear. Whether it's chunking out of the rails, low spots, spread rails, tapered rails or some combination of all of these, it all comes back to the chain maintenance. Bars will wear over time, but how you maintain the chain determines a lot of how quickly they wear and how badly they deteriorate. I am a firm believer that the BEST method of chain maintenance is to keep your chain teeth the same length and if you have the ability, match the raker heights to the teeth. That's what I recommend based on my experience and I can assure you that I've cut hundreds of cords of wood. I've sharpened hundreds of chains and when I was a beginner, I made many of the mistakes that I now try to help people avoid.
For the guys that watch Buckin' Billy Ray's channel, I really don't need your commentary about how how much I can learn from him. I enjoy his channel from time to time myself. If I wanted to learn about climbing, falling or restoring old axes, he'd be a really good source of knowledge. When it comes to saw repairs and maintenance, I don't need to look to his channel as my knowledge and experience speaks for itself. If you've just watched one of his videos and come here to tell me how wrong I am, do me a favor and keep it to yourself. I'm not at all interested in hearing it...if you want to have an intelligent conversation about something, contact me through my website: www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/contact.html
Well said and eloquent response.
Very well stated Leon. I enjoy Buckin's channel also and I appreciate the both of you sharing your skill and expertise. I enjoy learning from both of you and a few others too. I think you're doing a fine job and hope you continue to share your experience. There's a ton of videos claiming to show the "right" way to sharpen chain. In the end we have to decide what's gonna work for our own situation. I use a grinder and I like it for the consistency and the speed. I also sharpen by hand sometimes and have had good results that way too. One of the things I like about hanging out in your channel is the no nonsense way you have of explaining what you're doing without all the flashy special effects and graphics. Just a guy calmly doing his thing and teaching anyone willing to learn. That, plus I have 6 Homelites that I like to keep running! Love the older saws.
I have a carlton grinder just like this . in your opinion leon, what are the best brand of discs to use ? I only use mine for my own saws .
I watch Buckins channel and he has some one do most all of his repairs and runs modified saws most of the time. When it comes to When it comes to saw repairs and maintenance. Your channel. I didn't read the comments but you hit the nail on the head.
Well said sir I know ur method works since watching this I just used it earlier so he'll with what others think it works . Thanks again for your help and video.
Forget all the so called experts who provide with negative comment. Your info is spot on. I have been using an "Efco Jolly" grinder for the past few years now. I have 3 saws, Husky 450, Husky 365 and a crap Ryobi (don't take it out in the bush though. I cut 13 to 15 tonne of good old Australian Hardwood per year and use it at the house. I take 3 chains per saw with me and cut my wood into 14'" rounds 24" thick. I load about 1 tonne per trip. I change the chain each tank of fuel. or when I hit rock in the dirt! On my return home it takes no more than 4 or 5 minutes per chain and they are ready for the next trip. Been using the method you so accurately describe for all that time and have always achieved great results. keep up the good work!
Thanks Frank! The methods described in this video are certainly not the only way to maintain a chain...but they are tried & true and will deliver the same results each time.
Drop of oil on grinder pivot?
You do a good job explaining and demonstrating......appreciaate your videos.....rgds, La Grange Texas
It all depends on how wore down or put into the dirt . I can get two or three days cuttings i do hand file twice a day or as needed depending on amount of wood cut.
That nice grinder I have a Harbor Freight one and it works great for home owners I have put a couple hundred chains through it and still works great
I, also, have a Roughneck Sharpener. My problem is the Tilting Deck settings. Some chains claim to need a 0 degree angle, some a 10 degree angle. Unfortuneatly, I can't find anywhere what those three markings are supposed to be. The instruction manual for this area of settings are clear as mud. I know this video was posted a long time ago, but if anybody can tell me which angle is 0 degrees, which is 5 degrees, and which mark is 10 degrees, you'd sure make this old man a happy camper. They show up very clear at time 2:44. Thank you for any help you or anyone else can supply.
If your talking about the tilt and the three marks you see at th base that is for chisel chains those are 10 degree o degree and 10 degree against your doing right hand cutters you loosen up th table and push the knob away from you it will line up with another mark on the base plate that's 10 degrees if it left hand cutters you pull the bottom of the table towards and the bros will line up again and it's set 10 degrees for left hand cutters this has absolutely nothing to do with the proper angle though . like I said this addresses full chisel chains only . semi chisel or anything else you leave that part centered. Some full chisel.still chains don't even require this adjustment. If you use Oregon full chisel chain you will use this. If your doing all the rest if the settings right younwill.have a very sharp saw but your starting to sacrifice safety kick back and other such undesirable issues with this its very sharp but gets dull quicker if that makes sense.
late to the party with this comment but thanks for your video. I read down the comments and was kind of surprised at the number of misinformed and less than sharp viewers....and a fair number of smart asses. The grinder is an excellent tool for reproducible, consistent sharpening of cutters and setting of depth gauges. They are not meant to be carried to the woods like some comments mentioned. And the set up to sharpen is quick and easy once you understand what needs to be done. The way I use them is to have several sharp chains, do no filing in the field, bring the stuff home and tend to chains in the shop. I have not found the pink wheels to be junk either, used correctly they do a fine job and lend themselves to dressing to a face shape you want with the dressing stick. The real key to using these is to be accurate in set up then take very, very small cuts, that way the metal does not overheat I would bet many of the negative comments reflect the lack of knowledge about cutter geometry and sharpening procedures. I have had the Oregon model for more than 25 years now and still the same OEM wheel on it. I milled logs with an Alaskan mill and relied on this grinder to produce well sharpened chain in a short time.
A suggestion, swap out the filament bulb on the grinder & replace with a LED one. Less heat generated & more light output for energy input. Really see what you are working on !
Hey I used to have that very same model chain grinder. Very amazing piece of machinery, it did wonders with all the chains I had.
No flame intended you need both. The grinder if the chain hit the ground and was tilling the rocky soil. The grinder if teeth were broken off a like new chain and the repair kits changed out the bad teeth. A file for a quick touch up if the chain looks ok. I do use the file more.
Sounds reasonable to me!
Just picked up this same grinder at a tractor show for 20 bucks figured I've been wanting one for a while and figured it looked like my dads tecomec hydraulic one but without hydraulics.
Thank-You for taking 'your time' to make us this great video.
Hi Leon I have that same sharpener and I have a hill of a time move the base to 10 degrees. I was thinking of taking it off and greasing the bottom or taking a wire wheel to it. Any suggestion would be appreciated. I am worried the grease might hold the metal shavings and get worse. The teeth come out sharp but I think they could be better. I am cutting hard wood. Oak mostly.
That's the one real flaw of this sharpener...the tilt base isn't the smoothest. There is a small ball under there to act as a detent, so be careful if you take it off. I just loosen the knob up pretty much all the way whenever I have to tilt, especially tilting the chain back. There is a spot weld that catches the big washer, so you have to reach up there and guide the washer over the weld.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Thank You Very Much!!!!
Hi Leon I have that same grinder and I love it. I still have those 3 saws we agreed on but I have been out of commision for to long. Waiting on my last surgery which is going to be a new hip some time around the end of June and will contact you when I get caught up and get the saws boxed. Great video keep up the good work.
Ted
I'm sorry to hear the medical stuff has still got you down! I just had a big abdominal hernia sewed up on the 16th, so I'm on "light duty" for another month, but I'm sure glad to have that all done. I wish you the best with the new hip and when you are ready on those saws, I'll be here. Take care!
Good instruction. Why do you hold the chain down with your left index finger? Does the clamp not hold the chain in place?
I have an Oregon which has been used sparingly over 10 years. I have a big problem with the chain dragging on the back end when I advance it despite trying adjustments. I always have to pick it up. Any suggestions?
You have a very calm pleasant way of presenting. Thanks.
Sounds to me like you need to tighten the vice a vice a little
Very good video my grinding wheel doesn’t have the option to tilt the chain didn’t even know that was a thing something to keep in mind also I use Alaska sawmills and it is a 60° even on the ripping chains
I sharpened all my chains by hand until a neighbor gave me a chain grinder. It's a lot better, especially on the long chains to get the thing to cut straight with the grinder.
Can you explain the tilt angle a little better.. you mentioned 10 degrees but didn’t actually use that. My grinder doesn’t have that tilt feature
Do I really need it?
Not if you don't use full chisel chains
That is the best saw holder I've ever seen on a workbench and I am going to copy it!
Being 5ft.6in.,what would be a working height to mount the bottom of the base of grinder in a comfortable work position? Also, would you do a video on the rake filing to maintain the suggested bites the tooth should be in to provide smooth cutting flow.
I would love to have that Homelite climbing saw think it's a six pounder? Best climbing saw ever sold imo
Do you have to change grinding wheels to sharpen different sizes of chains like ,325, 3/8 picco, or 1/4" chains
Yes. a 1/8" wheel does good on 3/8"LP & 1/4", 3/16" on the 3/8" and .404"
I noticed you do not loosen and tighten the vise clamp lever when you move from cutter to cutter. It looks as though you leave it semi tight so the chain will still move while pulling back with your left hand to apply tension against the stop. Does that work well for you? It looks like to me it is one less thing to do and a time saver.
Well I do still use the vise, but I've found I get a more consistent grind if I pull back slightly to seat the tooth against the stock. Honestly the tensioning part of this grinder isn't the greatest.
I've got same grinder there is an adjustment for the vice tension part . its there . it requires a little Fiennes just like all the other adjustments . you use an allen take a look a little closer its there I see other videos where people miss that also . when you get the tension on that set right it will make the tooth set itself upright in the cradle so to speak for lack of a better way to put it. I'm not a professional took me a while to figure it out myself but it's there . everything else you've said is spot on and I did it just like you did till I caught on to how to adjust that clamp properly I think you're go to see it makes a difference when you use your machine. Not trying to be mean spirtted about it.
I don't mind the longer videos at all, keep em coming ! I've been trolling the internet looking for a Silvey reasonably priced but have struck out so far, someday though....someday. A friend gave me a blue/white XL-12 that I'm looking forward to get running, I may be asking for your advice on a few things. Looks like a pretty nice/complete saw, time will tell....... thank you for the videos !
Know a guy who has 1. He's shutting down his shop.
@@darrellepickering8433 : I'd be intrested in his Silvey!
Ok, I'll let him know.
@@darrellepickering8433 : Thank you, I appreciate that
Grinder or file. As long as they cut to your likeing. Realy dont matter. On a grinder you can make a chain. Cut. So much it will stall a saw out. Chain wont stay sharp long. So. 30 deg 60 deg and 10deg set back. Nice slow grinds. Youll be happy. I can change a chain faster then any one can file.
Raker height controls whether or not of it cuts straight. Tooth length doesn't matter of Raker height is set to tooth.
ua-cam.com/video/naajTyrYPok/v-deo.html
Myth busted right here
One question I have is there an adjustment for the arm that you use to lock the chain in? Mine always seems to come loose and I have to hold it in place. I can't figure out what the bolts with the lock nuts on. I have tried to move them in and out and I can't see or feel any movement when I adjust them. I also use 30 degree's
Nope, this model you have to hold the clamp while you grind. No lock at all. The bolts with the lock nuts are for centering the vise that the grinder will cut the same from both sides of the chain.
Could be why my chain teelth come out longer on one side. I will have tyo look into that.
Thanks
Ted
Heal well!!!!
I just had this problem. There is a snap ring that holds the handle on. Take that off and remove the handle, after that is removed there is a large nut under the handle. Tighten that up, it didn't take much. I removed the vise completely by unscrewing the angle adjustment knob, just be careful lifting it off because there are springs under it.
Let me guess...your grinder is a braur-ag? They are fiddly
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair , same as Chris below, but also carefully grind a curve in vice rail same radius as cam lock. Not too deep, but it allows the cam to " bite" & stay locked tight despite vibration of running motor.
Vintage Oregon had abovementioned & gripped. New copy didn't & couldn't get to adjust cam bolt adjusted to hold till created above. Hope make sense & helps. Very informative content, your videos. 👏💯
I used to be able to file a chain by hand, and have it cut sweet, for thirty years or more. I guess I got old. Now my hand filing always cuts curves, in spite of my best efforts. I've got an Oregon machine coming soon. I can't wait to have decently sharp chains again! Good lesson in chain filing. Thanks!
If you want to do yourself a big favor, go to sharpchain.com/shop/GW1.htm and buy a resinoid grinding wheel to fit that new grinder.
Fast, accurate and consistent!
Any idea how to adjust the screw on the back side of the vice?
Trial and error I'm afraid! In theory it is supposed to center the chain so that no matter which cutter you are grinding (right or left), you don't have to adjust the depth. I've got mine close, but I'm still 1/2 a turn off...I gave up and just remember the 1/2 turn when I switch sides!
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair, I have been having similar challenge & find the adjustment very fickle. Wonder if the adjusting screw were changed for a one with a finer pitch, thus allowing an easier accurate setting? Such as UNF, rather than metric.
My new Oregon 520 is leaving a huge burr on top of the cutter. Anyone have an idea of what's going on? TIA
I think I will try your technique of taking small bites with the grinder wheel.
The burr is due to the direction of the cutting wheel rotation...the older models of grinders could run in both directions to match the tooth being ground, but the safety laws did away with that feature. Shorter "bites" and removing less length of the tooth at once can help control the amount of burr created. The metal that is left behind is brittle though and comes off in the first cut or two, leaving behind a sharp tooth.
He's right ! Your taking off to much at a time.
Hi Leon I had a question Are you using the sharpener for just Oregon chains or have you had success in using it on stihl chains? I was thinking about getting a sharpener like this like the Oregon 410 but when I looked up a lot of reviews on it people upset Oregon's documentation only shows the angles for their chains and that there's little to no literature online of how to set up a grinder for the stihl chain. I was curious if you've done Stihl chain as well and had success?
Oh yeah, they are all very close to the same and I've been known to set my own angles! The backplate angle (tilt of the grinding head) is easily adjustable and that's about the only variable between the manufacturers that might not be a constant. Stihl chain tends to "burn" with lower quality grinding wheels (the less expensive pink ones), so you'd want to run a nice resinoid wheel.
Agreed
How to sharpen rakers
I have a grinder similar to yours and it came with those junk pink wheels also. Once you get your hands on a resinoid wheel @t you will throw those pink wheels in the trash like I did. They do not heat up the cutters and blue them removing the temper, you will grind in half the time.
what wheel do you use now?
CBN
Try a Borazon wheel. much cooler cut, much cleaner shop, consistent radius - no redressing. Or natural diamond for the carbide chains.
nothing compares to grinding a chain, it's the best by far!
In reality there are a lot of chains that has been hardened and overheated by grinders.
The hardened edge is not sharp. And it is not possible to file.
Now that's the fault not the operator there ZTE various ways to keep from overheating . in regards to the operator of the saw I offer this . Some of you don't know when to quit when you've run your saw in the dirt in rocks or fence wire . you think you can continue to horse the saw and you think that's what the dog Paul is for . you absolutely will ruin a brand new chain that God himself can't fix . I've seen thus happy and you have to file away half the teeth to get it to cut right again then you get passed off at the guy who sharpened he saw and compost e took off way to much material . and some of you are arrogant enough that you swear you can fix it with your file. You can't do it and you bring me your chain you've ruined I can see it in a heart beat.
If you started with your most damaged tooth wouldn't you be prematurely shortening the overall life of the chain. If 99 percent of the teeth are good why would you want to bring them all down to the lowest common denominator?
My thoughts exactly.
Hardly ever are 99% of the teeth good if one is completely fouled up. That's not how it works folks!
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair True, but many, many times I have seen only 3-5 teeth damaged badly on one side and the rest somehow didn't get affected.
@@yearginclarke Absolutely. The 3-5 teeth are the ones that will get filed down and be so much lower than the rest of the chain that they break off before the rest of the chain is worn out. It's really a catch-22 no matter what you do. If part of the chain ends up badly damaged, the overall life of the chain is shortened no matter what.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair Yes that's just how it is. I hate it when it happens to a chain that has some life to it.
If you are sharpening a lot of chains, why not go with CBN grinding wheels. I love them. They leave a better edge then the pink wheels thus cutting longer and the thing hardly wear out , making them cheaper in the long run.
less heat on the cutters, less strain on the grinder engine an none of that nasty grinder wheel dust. Place a magnet and all the trash is caught.
And no glass dust to breathe, never need dressing, no heat.
I see Craftsman screwdrivers and J.B. Weld, I hit subscribe :)
I concur sir
The "Super 2" Was my first chainsaw! I got it in 1980 for my 12th birthday.
I have a cheap Harbor Freight grinder. Not quite as good as yours, but nicer than hand filing.
Honestly that's what I started with as well. I've said many times that for homeowners or people that want an upgrade, but don't have a need for the expensive ones, the Harbor Freight model is not a bad option.
Bottom line I found out was to take your time and set it up right. Makes a world of difference.
P
That's what I have and it works OK for my needs. But, I find that after grinding a chain, I still need to touch it up a little with a file for maximum sharpness.
Great tips thank u sir.
Does that thing do the rakers?
Sort of. I have a wheel that I shaped to a slight taper, so I can manually file the first one to the proper height and then set the depth stop on the machine to do the rest. It works pretty well, but not perfect.
Boa tarde preciso da sua ajuda eu tenho uma motosserras Homelite Super 2 a maquina quando esta a trabalhar deita o olio pelo escape pode-me ajudar.Obrigado
Files all I need..i have a grinder but it doesn't seem to leave much of a gullut for my tooth ..can cut 20 cords of wood a year with file, verse 10 if I use my grinder..chains for my ms660 are expensive lol and I'm cheap
And to dense to learn how to operate don't far more simple and correct for your chins. Same old excuse you can't sharpen a chain with a file and keep it. Correct for ever I hear those claims when they come to me and want the a goes straw again in see the real mess you and filers really make only person you've convinced is yourself
Tooth length has no effect on h ow the chain will cut, and it will not cause any excess of or uneven wear to the bar. This has been proven in demonstrations many times.
That is true if the depth gauges are all set properly and all teeth are actually sharp at the proper angle. Many people fail to sharpen both sides of the chain at the same angle and almost never touch the depth gauges. So for the novice or average user, keeping the tooth length the same helps mitigate some of the problems that can arise from not following a complete sharpening routine. I just know how many bars come through the shop that have massive wear to one side...there's a reason the Barshop gets so much use!
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair No doubt most are better at sharpening one side better than the other, and never flipping the bar doesn't help either.👍✌
You got that right!
bobe8888 I’m an old cutter an I totally agree. I have for yrs ground chains an in field filed to a round from chisel grind. If this guy would just sharpen his teeth an then put the flat raker file guide on each feed raker and file them to each tooth’s distance for correct length each tooth will cut the same way. And will cut like a raped ape! As us old cutters use to say! Hehe
I use to think the same thing as you stated about the cutters being the same length, I have a video showing a chain with 2 cutters missing and I ground the rest of the cutters on that side so they are half as long as the other side and because the drags are set correctly the chain still cuts like new and straight. ua-cam.com/video/rKN3p_QwhCQ/v-deo.html
Well made item.
Isn't it just easier just to flip the chain for the other side to make it evener? JD
If you did that, you'd be grinding the back of the tooth not the front (just picture the cutters, normally they face the right and if you flip the chain they then face the left).
@@killer2600 Yes your right. Silly me.
Does this man keep standing on a dog's squeaky toy during the video?
you really need to do something about that pesky mouse :)
Are you speaking of Tughill?
Are you speaking of Tughillplowboy?
Oh, forgot to mention, I have a Harbor Freight chain grinder... So much slop, that even with care, it just can't do the job any better than my old hands.
Suggest take up slop with bush on pivot pin or degrease & take up with epoxy two part glue. Have used a piece of scrap tape measure blade to do this repair.
DANGEROUS--- you are NOT CLOSING JAWS TO CLAMP CHAIN. that can smash grinding wheel against loose chain.
I use just a file and a file handle, unless the teeth are worn so bad that I cannot pick up their angles. Then I will use a file guide. I have a grinder but I can sharpen several chains before I get that sob set up.
What kind is it and wht you got to have for it. Ill take it off your hands for you. They Not nothing but junk anyway
Fuck me i would have ground 2 chains in the time this bloke set up
It’s a teaching video so he’s taking time to explain what’s he doing and problems to watch out for. Once you set your bench grinder to your preference it doesn’t take much time to sharpen.
What's your hurry ?.you don't rush perfection
Fun fact I do better without a file guild 😂 and got lots of guides files and a chain grinder that has been used so little it ant even tarnished and the disk is basically new
How much you want for it ?
good vid well done /////you can have a f but
ull tooth on the left and just a tooth on the right and still cut ok // not the way to go but
I don't see it. Too fiddly. I like my file. Besides, dragging that thing in and out of the woods is ridiculous. I don't have an extension cord that long.
That's a real problem is it not ?
@@rc391995 Yep.
Станок смажь,такое впечатление кабуто катят пилить😁
Standing there grinding your chains away! Your just as bad as the chainsaw repair man! Oh wait that is what you are! At least you are honest and grind your own chains away!
I too have a grinder and all it really takes it two to three very light touches on most chains, unless you cut a nail or big rock? Then they is all on you and your bar and tip control!
You almost get it . sure enough
I've watched loads of these vids and still non the wiser.
Is there a question here or is this your thought chain sharpening videos in general?
Buckin Billy Ray could teach you a whole bunch. . .he is a professional woodsman
And you sir? What's your background in this subject?
Myself, I rather watch Leon.
@@LeonsChainsawPartsAndRepair professional logger
@@geesss8675 And that is what billy is he does do any real repairs just simple stuff. He is good at feeling trees and he can hand file and he also uses a grinder. There is no comparing the two channels. There is nothing Billy is going to teach Leon.
Keith Clark your a joke
I have a grinder similar to yours and it came with those junk pink wheels also. Once you get your hands on a resinoid wheel @t you will throw those pink wheels in the trash like I did. They do not heat up the cutters and blue them removing the temper, you will grind in half the time.