I left it for ~48hrs / once the rust is gone (or mostly gone), the bubbling-reaction greatly diminishes and you know its done / thanks for the comment!
Figure thats how they used to clean the old blocks once they dug them up out of the ground. Was a big mopar thing far as I know. Sure the others burried them too
You don't need much washing soda - you are just making the water a conductive electrolyte (more isn't better) - do some google searches for recommended ratios - thanks for the comment!
Well on paper I think that would work, but I think you would end up depleting your batteries pretty quickly -or- could be a short risk to the battery (unsure myself) - I'd stick with a battery charger if you can. As for smaller parts: I use a 1 gallon bucket with smaller parts all the time now / works great / thanks for the comment!
@@TacoJoe Thank you, I will give it a try... I have some parts from the rear suspension of my '79 Vette. Slowly restoring or replacing parts to look better than new.
you don't need much (more isn't better) you goal is just to conduct electricity so 1/4 to 1/2 cups per 5 gallons of water usually does it. thanks for the comment and good luck!
Well by the looks, I see it's a Ford s/b so why waste your money & just buy a CHEVROLET they usually last a bit longer, so how can I tell just look GM has a 5 bolt pattern to help, seal the head & ford has 4 bolt pattern, that's the reasoning & Ford sucks 🤣
thanks bill / I have both ford a chevy small blocks and I always thought it was crazy that the 351W with its massive crank journals/tough bottom end still only had the 4 head bolt pattern. Another nice thing about the SBCs - they are internally balanced! Thanks for the comment!
Rust only -but- you could try a greasy part and you might be able to break loose any rust underneath along with the grease and get 2 birds with one stone. Thanks for the comment!
That's awesome . What're yall slapping it in ?
Shelby Cobra replica
what do yall think is best way to clean it
How long did you leave it in for?
I left it for ~48hrs / once the rust is gone (or mostly gone), the bubbling-reaction greatly diminishes and you know its done / thanks for the comment!
@@TacoJoewhat liquid did you use
Figure thats how they used to clean the old blocks once they dug them up out of the ground. Was a big mopar thing far as I know. Sure the others burried them too
What was your power to water ratio
You don't need much washing soda - you are just making the water a conductive electrolyte (more isn't better) - do some google searches for recommended ratios - thanks for the comment!
just on the topic of electrolysis, for smaller parts is it safe to use small gauge copper wire attached to a D battery?
Well on paper I think that would work, but I think you would end up depleting your batteries pretty quickly -or- could be a short risk to the battery (unsure myself) - I'd stick with a battery charger if you can. As for smaller parts: I use a 1 gallon bucket with smaller parts all the time now / works great / thanks for the comment!
Can I use this method for part that still partially paint coated ? Will it damage the coating ?
it might take off the paint - but if you are cleaning up the block, that might be an advantage / good luck!
Nice job... Id like to know what's in the solution u dipping it into
Tap water with washing soda 👍
Arm & hammer super washing soda / hope this helps
Will it get back rusted?
Just some WD40 after I pulled it out / paint in its future
Can you show the washing soda you use
Arm&Hammer washing soda
What other things can i join on anode other than iron?
steel / maybe do some google searches on electrolysis - I'm sure there are other options. Thanks for the comment!
@@TacoJoe ok thanks
so what are the compositions and polarity of the electrodes?
typically what you are de-rusting is the cathode (-) while the sacrificial iron is the anode (+) - thanks for the comment!
@@TacoJoe Thank you, I will give it a try... I have some parts from the rear suspension of my '79 Vette. Slowly restoring or replacing parts to look better than new.
Good luck with the restoration James :)
Impressive
Can I just use a home baking soda instead? Does that even work?
baking soda and washing soda are different materials - pick up a box of washing soda and give it a try / thanks for the comment!
@@TacoJoe awesome dude, thanks 🔥
What ratio of baking sofa to water did you use?
you don't need much (more isn't better) you goal is just to conduct electricity so 1/4 to 1/2 cups per 5 gallons of water usually does it. thanks for the comment and good luck!
@@TacoJoe thank you I’ll email you the before and after
Well by the looks, I see it's a Ford s/b so why waste your money & just buy a CHEVROLET they usually last a bit longer, so how can I tell just look GM
has a 5 bolt pattern to help, seal the head & ford has 4 bolt pattern, that's the reasoning & Ford sucks 🤣
thanks bill / I have both ford a chevy small blocks and I always thought it was crazy that the 351W with its massive crank journals/tough bottom end still only had the 4 head bolt pattern. Another nice thing about the SBCs - they are internally balanced! Thanks for the comment!
Wow! You cleaned a dusty block with electrolysis. 🤦🏻♂️😂🤣
Does this degrees an rusty oily engine?
Rust only -but- you could try a greasy part and you might be able to break loose any rust underneath along with the grease and get 2 birds with one stone. Thanks for the comment!