I like the way you worded it, “rarity favors the seller”, “availability favors the buyer”. Really puts it into perspective. I also think another variable that comes into play are collectors’ attachment to certain cards, which is why we might see unreasonable markups. It’s okay for them to do that, especially if it’s rare. Just don’t be upset if they do.
Yep pretty much. I recently purchased a Daredevil 1/1 card autographed by Charlie Cox. So if I ever do decide to sell it, I get to set the price for whatever I value that card at.
I love the advice, I really wish all the apps would get together and make one GREAT app. They each have so many different features and only track this type or that type of card. Things are getting better but not there yet
Very well said Dan. If you got a rare card at an intelligent purchase price 6 months ago and no sales since plus none available, you are setting the new price as a seller. Many buyers treat this card as though it’s a card that sells multiple times daily and many are currently available. Some of these buyers just don’t know the difference between these two types of cards. I’m glad you’re educating them. Others know exactly what they are doing and try to take advantage. I use your strategy and tell them to pound sand. 😂
I like the idea of taking the last month of sales, but why would you add a 20% increase to the last month of sales? Would you just pick the mode from last month of sales? I think that would get you to a fair COM quicker than the percentages and what’s currently available just a thought.
I'm pretty sure he said he only does the 20% thing if there AREN'T good comps in the last month or 2(or more)....if there are multiple sales a week, then no, no reason to do any kind of 20% markup.
Could you give an example of this video for a card. Like take for example A stroud Prizm base PSA 10. Comps are around $80. How would you do it if you were interested in the card. Or even with value box finds? Do I price individually of a lot of cards in the value bin or is it something else?
Start at 80% of the comp and negotiate from there. Same thing if you pull a lot from a value box group everything together and start at 80% and work your offer up from there.
Some good points here, but I think a lot of people will be selective what you said. I think the main point to take out of this is, if there aren't good comps - the seller has the upper hand and if there are tons of comps the buyer has the advantage. I mostly buy and sell vintage baseball - mostly higher end, and this stuff doesn't have too many recent comps. Buyers always want a good deal on say a PSA 6 1963 Mantle. Well I'm in the advantage because those are far rarer than say a 2022 Topps Chrome PSA 10 Wander Franco. So I don't really have to budge as much. So to go off your 20% guideline - while it might be a bit steep, you have more room to ask that for rarer stuff.
what if the last two sales was a bgs 9 and a raw card sold for 2000 less than your price but your card is a psa10.. and the availability is a bgs 10 on ebay thats 3.5x of your price? i am new to this.. do different grades create rarity?
@@TheGreatCurator. so i can go back more than a month to factor a price of my psa 10.. thank you.. my mind gets literal when i try listening to guys such as yourself that share ya expertise.. thank you very much for this.. awesome content and great collection.. im a fan
I would have to agree with this. Often, there are no recent sold listings or the bids are not reliable due to obvious reasons in which you mentioned some. This approach should be the way.
man I wish everyone thought and did business like this... great information that truly is facts and makes business sense. BUT these dang consignments sites/sellers have ruined this concept and it stinks. all they care about is making the fastest sale possible for any kind of profit, they don't value the card or player or rarity of anything. All business with them and no love for the hobby. the more they sell the more they make. Why I wont do business with the consignment sellers AT ALL... thanks for the great video once again.
Why do we need to go by Ebay price there are other platforms we're these items have sold. Is it because it's the lowest available price. People's collections are gonna be worthless if everyone keeps devaluing these cards to get the lowest price.... Ebay is not a guide its a hobby killer
If you're going to make a critical comment; at least explain why is it terrible, otherwise it's just trolling, and, your comment ads nothing to the discussion
I like the way you worded it, “rarity favors the seller”, “availability favors the buyer”. Really puts it into perspective. I also think another variable that comes into play are collectors’ attachment to certain cards, which is why we might see unreasonable markups. It’s okay for them to do that, especially if it’s rare. Just don’t be upset if they do.
True collectors always add a premium
What would you know about true collectors? True collectors want their hobby back from guys that use it for this “content” nonsense.
Thanks for giving us important info well said
Thanks and welcome
👍👍
😁
Good video! Still learning this stuff and this really helps. Makes a lot of sense too.
Glad it was helpful!
Yep pretty much. I recently purchased a Daredevil 1/1 card autographed by Charlie Cox. So if I ever do decide to sell it, I get to set the price for whatever I value that card at.
Your card your price and up to the potential buyer to negotiate with tou
I love the advice, I really wish all the apps would get together and make one GREAT app. They each have so many different features and only track this type or that type of card. Things are getting better but not there yet
I think one day someone will do it it's just a matter of coming to an agreement to share the data
Very well said Dan. If you got a rare card at an intelligent purchase price 6 months ago and no sales since plus none available, you are setting the new price as a seller. Many buyers treat this card as though it’s a card that sells multiple times daily and many are currently available. Some of these buyers just don’t know the difference between these two types of cards. I’m glad you’re educating them. Others know exactly what they are doing and try to take advantage. I use your strategy and tell them to pound sand. 😂
Everything comes down to negotiate. They know exactly what they're doing and just trying to get a good deal.
Good information!!
Thanks!
I like the idea of taking the last month of sales, but why would you add a 20% increase to the last month of sales? Would you just pick the mode from last month of sales? I think that would get you to a fair COM quicker than the percentages and what’s currently available just a thought.
Assume you purchased at last comp. What's a reasonable markup? Most people I know try to work a 20-30% margin in unless it's rare or undervalued card.
I'm pretty sure he said he only does the 20% thing if there AREN'T good comps in the last month or 2(or more)....if there are multiple sales a week, then no, no reason to do any kind of 20% markup.
Could you give an example of this video for a card. Like take for example A stroud Prizm base PSA 10. Comps are around $80. How would you do it if you were interested in the card. Or even with value box finds? Do I price individually of a lot of cards in the value bin or is it something else?
Start at 80% of the comp and negotiate from there. Same thing if you pull a lot from a value box group everything together and start at 80% and work your offer up from there.
Some good points here, but I think a lot of people will be selective what you said. I think the main point to take out of this is, if there aren't good comps - the seller has the upper hand and if there are tons of comps the buyer has the advantage. I mostly buy and sell vintage baseball - mostly higher end, and this stuff doesn't have too many recent comps. Buyers always want a good deal on say a PSA 6 1963 Mantle. Well I'm in the advantage because those are far rarer than say a 2022 Topps Chrome PSA 10 Wander Franco. So I don't really have to budge as much. So to go off your 20% guideline - while it might be a bit steep, you have more room to ask that for rarer stuff.
Take the best parts and use what works 👍
what if the last two sales was a bgs 9 and a raw card sold for 2000 less than your price but your card is a psa10.. and the availability is a bgs 10 on ebay thats 3.5x of your price? i am new to this.. do different grades create rarity?
Factor in multiples based on the similar cards and negotiate what you think makes sense
@@TheGreatCurator. so i can go back more than a month to factor a price of my psa 10.. thank you.. my mind gets literal when i try listening to guys such as yourself that share ya expertise.. thank you very much for this.. awesome content and great collection.. im a fan
I would have to agree with this. Often, there are no recent sold listings or the bids are not reliable due to obvious reasons in which you mentioned some. This approach should be the way.
This is the way 😁
man I wish everyone thought and did business like this... great information that truly is facts and makes business sense. BUT these dang consignments sites/sellers have ruined this concept and it stinks. all they care about is making the fastest sale possible for any kind of profit, they don't value the card or player or rarity of anything. All business with them and no love for the hobby. the more they sell the more they make. Why I wont do business with the consignment sellers AT ALL... thanks for the great video once again.
It's easy to sell a card when it's not yours and you didn't pay for it.
As a dealer/Buyer, on average what % do you typically offer a card for purchase from a customer?
80% comp but it's negotiable more on trade
thanks for the tips. here's my tip to you. NEVER have your collection in any light.
👍
I wish ppl would factor in what is available.
Hopefully someday
I’m a vintage collector… i buy the card.. not the grade or comp…. buying vintage is in NO way the same as buying modern….
Very true
Why do we need to go by Ebay price there are other platforms we're these items have sold. Is it because it's the lowest available price. People's collections are gonna be worthless if everyone keeps devaluing these cards to get the lowest price.... Ebay is not a guide its a hobby killer
It's the easiest to use but this can be applied to any auction with confirmed sales
If someone brings up Comps to me, I offer it at 5X! LOL
Let me revise my video
@@TheGreatCurator. 🤣
Fake deals on video.
Deals are real only the cards are fake
Terrible advice
You're terrible advice
If you're going to make a critical comment; at least explain why is it terrible, otherwise it's just trolling, and, your comment ads nothing to the discussion