How To Pull a Restored Wire Harness Through a PORSCHE 356
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 тра 2021
- My Porsche 356 Restoration Project gets a newly restored wire harness in the very tough center tunnel section. It took a few tries, but hopefully you can see what works and what doesn't. It feels great to be assembling this car again! #porsche356
Boroscope camera: amzn.to/3eL6Cjk
Wire Aid Lube: amzn.to/3fpZx7c
Patreon / ahhgaragetime
Insta @ahhgaragetime
FB / ahhgaragetime
Website www.ahhgaragetime.com
Ahh Garage Time Email Stories:
mailchi.mp/b63353737df0/sign-...
~-~~-~~~-~~-~
Please watch: "Automotive Suspension Part 3D Scan with Revopoint Range Scanner"
• Get A Perfect 3D Scan ...
~-~~-~~~-~~-~ - Авто та транспорт
Great Video Tom. Thanks for pointing out that people that who are closter phobic should not watch, I was like whatever... 30 seconds later... get me the H3LL OUT OF HERE!!!!
Now you've seen parts of a 356 99.5% have never seen!
The color looks very fantastic
👍👍
Thx, I love it!
Awesome and no comments about lubing a difficult to "hold onto" snake... I'm impressed!
Ha ha, and the boroscope part!
Nice work, makes you think of how they had to of put the cables in during manufacturing.
I'm sure if we did it all day over and over again, we would have it down to 5 minutes. It took me 5 hrs, but that also included prepping the cables with sleeving and terminals.
I often wonder how Porsche made any money on these cars. The materials alone are very expensive.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto yes but cost were very much cheaper then too. I haven't even looked at my wiring harness yet, I am afraid too. LOL
Nice job, Tom. That is definitely a challenging pathway for the cables to be run through. If an electrical gremlin ever pokes it’s head up, you have to believe it couldn’t be living along the stretch of wires going through the tunnel. 👍👍
Ha ha right! No room for gremlins!
Very nice. Similar to how I did mine. I also did the wiring harness back to front but had my son help so a pusher and a puller. 20 minutes tops that way. Helpful hint for how far you pull harness is to get harnes in correct position for wire branch to brake master cylinder switch in correct position. That will give you correct amount of harness both under dash and back of tunnel. For what to use to close each item at the rear of the tunnel I listed everything I used in one entry for my C here: forum.porsche356registry.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=47813&p=333199&hilit=wiring+harness#p333199 Alternate cover end to seal main wiring harness instead of inner tube also listed in the thread. Hope this helps someone in the future. I am sure that this video will. Thanks for making it Tom. Love your series.
Thanks Doug, I'll check out that thread. I may have already seen it because I found someone listed several part numbers for the rubber grommets and such. It was probably you! Thank you.
Nice work. I had no idea that battery cable was so substantial. I need to run a new tach cable in the tunnel. It was nice to see what it looks like in there. Thanks for making the videos.
It's very substantial and I upsized it too. Are you attempting the tach cable with the trans in? I've never done it...
Sorry, must be different for yours. Mechanical drive tach. for 1960 B. Goes from back of engine through tunnel to tach. I hope.
Right, best of luck!
Tom, I am going to be welding new pans in my 356 soon. I believe I have all the tubes inside the tunnel in-tact. Do I need to run any of the wires, cables or other items in the tunnel BEFORE I close it off with the new pans? I'm nervous about forgetting something and regretting it 2 years from now! Thanks!!!
It can't hurt to leave a pull wire in there for the wire harness and battery/starter cable. Make sure there are no sharp edges and all the tabs and brackets are in there.
Might want to put some pvc sleeve on some tabs so they don't cut anything later on.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto I will put in some pull lines. Great advice! I'll also inspect all the edges to make sure they are smooth or lined with something smooth. Thanks again!
That reminds me it's about time for another colonoscopy. Ha Ha. Good progress, I really like the color. FYI, cross your fingers...if all goes well I'll be doing my first paint job next weekend. Going with Jaguar Deep Blue base with 2k clear. Cheers!
Good luck on the paint job!
Why didn' t you pour the lube into the sleeve? Then the cable is dry
That would probably work. The instructions say to apply lube to cable as you feed it in. Hard to do when both pieces are moving and just one guy.
By the way, I don't rehearse any of these videos, therefore the best way isn't always the first way.
Like I said at the end, it's best to pull the battery cable after the main harness is already installed. This contradicts what I said in the beginning, ha ha.
There are probably a dozen ways to get the same result.
Bet you could get a job at Porsche Classic. What are the rev limits on your “912” and 356?
5800 rpm, although I've already taken the 912 engine to 6k just for fun. Short burst to 6k are ok even for the pushrod engines.
I will do more on the 911 engine to optimize redline such as valve seat pressure and lightweight valve train.
I thought you were going full Antman on us and walking through the tunnel ;)
That was my favorite part of this video! Luckily no rust in that any farm!
Awesome 356 videos. My 63B is very similar, but thankful I don't have the rust. The boot, as noted earlier, is for the MC, but it looked inside out. The boot you want for the starter wire is www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/91161192100.htm?pn=911-611-921-00-OEM&SVSVSI=356M&DID=161684, if you haven't already located it.
Thanks David! A 356 without rust is a real gem👍. Enjoy it. I did get the correct wire boot, thanks! Will probably get a newer one for the master cylinder too!
Tom Its the brake boot. where did you the the hot wire anemometers? send me a PM.
Thanks John! I'm sure you are correct. I'll send you an email tonight about the hotwire anemometer
@@GarageTimeAutoResto Tom. No mail, Abcgt chat will work
Ok will copy and paste over there