My man. I started this video skeptical as the title stated "Ultimate" but dude, I'm genuinely impressed. I've built multiple chassis/engine harnesses (few dozen) in the past 15 years(with Leash, Bussman custom setups, etc) and for the first time in a UA-cam wiring video, I said "damn, that's clean". Absolute props, and I appreciate the 1440p upload.
Very clean job overall. I like that IWSS kit. Thanks for sharing that. Generally, electrical power inputs are called supplies; outputs are called loads. It’s not clear what the ammeter might be used for. Manufacturers give you the load rating of their components. You size the wiring to the load and the fuse to the wiring. Not sure how you would might use the ammeter. You should avoid making sizing decisions based on measured current. On your electric water pump, you can’t split the positive wire into two wires and leave the ground wire as a single wire. Your single ground connector rated for 13 amps will be carrying 20 amps. Keep your fire extinguisher handy. Also, it’s not a good general practice to split a load into two connectors because if one of the contacts becomes compromised, you will overload the other wire.
Nice trick with splitting the current through multiple wires in the Deutsch connectors. I know you mentioned the larger Deutsch connector later in the video, but so others know they are the DTP line which is rated at 25A for power connections. That's a dang nice looking relay panel. Learning wiring and accumulating the tools and supplies is so satisfying. I see that PrimeWeld TIG in the background too. Good choice there. Solid video!
Just a quick note re: amperage capacity in a circuit…. If you need 2 wires to carry your amp load on positive side, since your also grounded through the harness you need to carry the same load capacity on the ground side. In other words you need a 4 wire harness/ connector with 2 grounds in order to complete a 20 amp circuit in this application. So it would be cost effective to move up in connector series so you can save on wire/ connectors. Also the connector is your bottleneck not your 14 gauge wire.( depending on length of course but most likely far exceeds 20 amp load)… Good luck, looks great!
@@shimonwaksman1893 that’s a great point I overlooked. I haven’t had any other but definitely something I should have looked into thanks for the information!
We’re both the first to do this, but it’s the first time we’re doing it so sometimes you just gotta do your research and take it all in and see how it comes out. Our work tally shows through the build of the camaro from the welding, wiring and everything in between! Thanks for the comment! Hope you enjoyed and learned a thing or two
Awesome work man. That's a very clean install!! You should be proud of that one. One thing I noticed about the that Leash board is that the relayed circuits use large fuses, so you have to run large wire for the outputs. So, if you have say, a smaller fuel pump that only requires a 7.5 amp fuse, the smallest fuse you can run on that relay board is a 20 amp and so you're stuck running much larger wire than the pump would need otherwise. It's still a great relay board all things considered.
something you need to know! Splitting wires for a circuit or plug doesn't increase the circuit rating, you have to work to the maximum of the smallest part of the circuit, so that comes down to a single wire in a dual run, So in your initial plug at about 6:10, you are rated to one of the two wires. The reason for this is if one plug connector/wire fails you WILL overload the other connector and potentially cause fire. Rate ALL wires and connectors to above the maximum possible draw. On long runs add in the potential volt drop and resistance of the cable and overcompensate wire size according to that data.
Understood, the wires size isn’t the issue I was having trying to increase the amp rating it was just for the connector pin. But I do see what your saying. I’m not close on amp draw for any of the components even with 14 gauge wire so we should be good. Thanks for the information though
@@DAPerform I do believe Deutsch has a higher amp terminal/connector that you can you use, might go in a different connector body/housing, but they have them
Thanks a lot! The kit from precision fab is a life changer. So easy an amateur can do it lol. Been wiring for a free week now taking my time and doing things correct the first time. It’s a process but it’s turning out very nice
Well to begin it’s what I had on hand. With My lack of knowledge with Deutsch connectors I did not know they had high amp DTP connectors available. The connector for the fans would be the only one I would need to swap because of the amp draw. The water pump and everything else is under 10 amps so it wasn’t necessary for me to split the power wire like I did. On the water pump.
I've watched this video and the one prior. You've sold me on this kit. This was a great explanation on how to do this yourself. Thank you for that! The only question I have is do you run a key? How would that and the neutral safety switch tie into all this?
@@tbeach7112 the neutral safety switch is wired into the board all it takes is to cut the crossover wire in the Board and wire the more switch in the shifter. For a key I’m sure you could just wire it inline with the ignition switch or the starter switch
Nice build. Something to watch for however, is running the cables between the body and the outside the roll cage, in the event of a side impact you run the risk of shorting out circuits if the wires are crushed together.
The data logger I referenced is just a switch on the switch panel that is an input to the Holley ecu which I have not used and just a trans brake trigger to activate the data log
The Deutsche connectors are nice to run. Have to watch the quality though . Some of that eBay stuff is actually a real soft plastic . Is the IWSS(?!) kit hard plastic ? There is a part number HDP20 connector (like a bulkhead ) but can use it as either , that is a 100 amp plug assembly.
So far so good the iwss kit seems to be pretty good quality. Nothing seems out of the norm other than the price compared to brand name Deutsch connector
That’s the nice thing about the precision wiring and fabrication kit. All the wires are leaves every 12” with what it’s for example relay A wire says relay A on the wire itself align with every wire in the kit
Is there need for relays if you have one big cable going to a fuse box and from the fuse box to all devices like radiator fan, fuel pump, powerwindows etc. Before the fusebox you add a battery killswitch, evertime you stop driving, use the killswitch to disactivate the fuse box. Am I right with my thoughts?
Great work! Love how it's coming out. Quick question if you don't mind, what (if) did you use the 70amp relay ignition output for (the one before A)? I as well got this kit for my car and am a bit stuck on what (if) I should use that relay. Thanks!
That relay is controlled by the ignition switch on my switch panel. The output wire from the relay is connected to the Holley harness and turn on the ecu and dash when I flip the switch on. Regardless of your setup you should use that to turn on whatever ignition setup you have wether it’s a msd box or ecu that controls the ignition on and off
@@DAPerform Thank you for the quick response! I had originally envisioned using one of the 5 ignition outputs on the opposite side of board next to the 3 always hot battery outputs. Any reason to use one of the main relay outputs over the ones I planned on using?
@@davidsalazar4257 the relay is nice because one it’s already there and controlled through the switch. It can handle way more power and also act as a safety the ignition output wire are much smaller wire and cannot maintain the load of current most ignition sources require. It boils down to safety and the fact that it’s already there. I actually had a hard time trying to figure out how to use all 8 relays since most of them can be used to power multiple systems fans, intercoolers, pumps and what not.
I have the leash board and Holley but I only have two 70 amp relays that are ground triggered and I need three. Any advice on how to make a third one ground triggered or can I just get a bigger relay and put two of the fans together?
I see you found my other video. You can see why I chose this kit it’s extremely user friendly and almost dummy proof. Hands down the best wiring and relay board combo is from precision wiring and fabrication. But thats just my unbiased opinion
@@DAPerform what about like gauges and stuff , which my car will be a carbed nitrous deal , I've never wired a car so I'm just trying to figure out what's best , and how did you wire in the neutral safety, thanks
@@Justin-g5k2i the neutral safety is built into the board with two terminals, very simple. It’s all dependent on what your needs are the relay board has a lot of extra outputs as well
@@DAPerform only other thing I'm concerned with is that if you have a relay failure you can't replace the relay you have to send it back , that could cost you a race if your at the track
@@Kamikaze_Kobra love it so far, haven’t had any type of power to it but the wiring process have bee n very smooth so far. I’ve heard some not so great things about the arc panels
@@Kamikaze_Kobra if I could get my arc flat touch switch pannel to work with a leash street strip board I'd do that. Haven't had any issues out of my ARC pannel but would like the features the leash relay board has.
Oh check out this car wiring. Love yours but check this stuff out. It’s what I’m using on my new race car. ISIS Power cells. Bad ass how the cells work.
That’s correct. If you price out all the wiring you need that comes with the kit the terminals and the time to labels each wire and do a pull test on every crimp it’s worth the money.
My man. I started this video skeptical as the title stated "Ultimate" but dude, I'm genuinely impressed. I've built multiple chassis/engine harnesses (few dozen) in the past 15 years(with Leash, Bussman custom setups, etc) and for the first time in a UA-cam wiring video, I said "damn, that's clean". Absolute props, and I appreciate the 1440p upload.
I Can’t express how good that is to hear, thank you 🤘🏼
Keep it up, ,am! I'm subscribed! @@DAPerform
This man has a well tuned mind and obviously educated. I admire looking at the neatness and safety in his hobby or career which ever it may be.
Lots and lots of research to get this done! I wanted to do the wiring once and not have to redo it later. Glad you liked it!
This was exactly what I was looking for… didn’t know they had pre-wired pre fab boards … good info
Very clean job overall. I like that IWSS kit. Thanks for sharing that.
Generally, electrical power inputs are called supplies; outputs are called loads.
It’s not clear what the ammeter might be used for. Manufacturers give you the load rating of their components. You size the wiring to the load and the fuse to the wiring. Not sure how you would might use the ammeter. You should avoid making sizing decisions based on measured current.
On your electric water pump, you can’t split the positive wire into two wires and leave the ground wire as a single wire. Your single ground connector rated for 13 amps will be carrying 20 amps. Keep your fire extinguisher handy.
Also, it’s not a good general practice to split a load into two connectors because if one of the contacts becomes compromised, you will overload the other wire.
Just stopping in to say that wire loom is pure artwork. Nice job.
Appreciate it!
Nice trick with splitting the current through multiple wires in the Deutsch connectors. I know you mentioned the larger Deutsch connector later in the video, but so others know they are the DTP line which is rated at 25A for power connections. That's a dang nice looking relay panel. Learning wiring and accumulating the tools and supplies is so satisfying. I see that PrimeWeld TIG in the background too. Good choice there. Solid video!
Thank you, I appreciate that. Trying to ball on a budget here haha
Just a quick note re: amperage capacity in a circuit…. If you need 2 wires to carry your amp load on positive side, since your also grounded through the harness you need to carry the same load capacity on the ground side. In other words you need a 4 wire harness/ connector with 2 grounds in order to complete a 20 amp circuit in this application. So it would be cost effective to move up in connector series so you can save on wire/ connectors. Also the connector is your bottleneck not your 14 gauge wire.( depending on length of course but most likely far exceeds 20 amp load)… Good luck, looks great!
@@shimonwaksman1893 that’s a great point I overlooked. I haven’t had any other but definitely something I should have looked into thanks for the information!
@@shimonwaksman1893 Yea, came here to point this out too. That ground line is gonna be overloaded.
@@BlacxPhoenixwhat happens when a ground is over loaded? I'm trying to keep up.
i dont throw this around often, but you are an absolute gangster bro
@@2i741 appreciate it!
Thanks for this vid! Im about to rewire my 1963 Chevy P10 in a few weeks. This does help a lot!!
@@markm04021979 glad to help. I have a few wiring videos up
I gotta say brother you sound really humble.
We’re both the first to do this, but it’s the first time we’re doing it so sometimes you just gotta do your research and take it all in and see how it comes out. Our work tally shows through the build of the camaro from the welding, wiring and everything in between! Thanks for the comment! Hope you enjoyed and learned a thing or two
This is a very nice and clean setup, very professional. Very very nice 👍
First time wiring a car too! Research pays off lol
Awesome work man. That's a very clean install!! You should be proud of that one. One thing I noticed about the that Leash board is that the relayed circuits use large fuses, so you have to run large wire for the outputs. So, if you have say, a smaller fuel pump that only requires a 7.5 amp fuse, the smallest fuse you can run on that relay board is a 20 amp and so you're stuck running much larger wire than the pump would need otherwise. It's still a great relay board all things considered.
That’s a good point. I never thought of that before
something you need to know! Splitting wires for a circuit or plug doesn't increase the circuit rating, you have to work to the maximum of the smallest part of the circuit, so that comes down to a single wire in a dual run, So in your initial plug at about 6:10, you are rated to one of the two wires. The reason for this is if one plug connector/wire fails you WILL overload the other connector and potentially cause fire. Rate ALL wires and connectors to above the maximum possible draw. On long runs add in the potential volt drop and resistance of the cable and overcompensate wire size according to that data.
Understood, the wires size isn’t the issue I was having trying to increase the amp rating it was just for the connector pin. But I do see what your saying. I’m not close on amp draw for any of the components even with 14 gauge wire so we should be good. Thanks for the information though
@@DAPerform I do believe Deutsch has a higher amp terminal/connector that you can you use, might go in a different connector body/housing, but they have them
@@joem6859 I conveniently found them after I had wired the car lol I will upgrade in the future
I’m honestly just inspired. Great work bro!
Thank you! Great to hear
Looks nice and clean. Great work, glad the kit worked well for you.
Looks great, thanks for the tips. Will be trying an all new wiring set-up for my 1972 Porsche 914 V8 327 conversion in the next few months.
@@bdtoel sounds pretty sweet
Jesus man, what a beautiful job.
@@tdmallet thank you!
Nice job on your wiring... not sure what I'm going to do on my project yet so it's nice to see what you have done... great work on the video
Thanks a lot. The kit we got makes everything so mush easier. Still takes some time though
Very clean work! I hope I can get mine looking that good!
Great job bro. I have the leash street strip board and I’ll be doing exactly this ;). Appreciate the great content bud.
Thanks a lot! The kit from precision fab is a life changer. So easy an amateur can do it lol. Been wiring for a free week now taking my time and doing things correct the first time. It’s a process but it’s turning out very nice
Not only interesting, it's very informational. Thanks!
Thanks a lot!
Fuel/p n boost control was a good tip I’ll be using
Nice mate - that yellow wire would drive me nuts though 😂
It’s been fixed lol
That is beautiful work homie, im all about it. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Clean clean clean! Love it!
Great video! Very informative.
Just curious, why not use a DTP 2 pin connector that can handle 25 amps for things like the water pump
Well to begin it’s what I had on hand. With My lack of knowledge with Deutsch connectors I did not know they had high amp DTP connectors available. The connector for the fans would be the only one I would need to swap because of the amp draw. The water pump and everything else is under 10 amps so it wasn’t necessary for me to split the power wire like I did. On the water pump.
Very nice
Thanks for some killer info !!
Thank you for the support!
It looks awesome!
Pretty nice ! Pretty dam nice !! 20:40
Thanks!
I've watched this video and the one prior. You've sold me on this kit. This was a great explanation on how to do this yourself. Thank you for that! The only question I have is do you run a key? How would that and the neutral safety switch tie into all this?
@@tbeach7112 the neutral safety switch is wired into the board all it takes is to cut the crossover wire in the Board and wire the more switch in the shifter. For a key I’m sure you could just wire it inline with the ignition switch or the starter switch
Super clean bro 👌🏾
Thanks a lot!
Looks great, nice job
Thank you!
great job man. love it.
Thank you!
Dam great job
Thank you!
Nice build. Something to watch for however, is running the cables between the body and the outside the roll cage, in the event of a side impact you run the risk of shorting out circuits if the wires are crushed together.
That’s a really good point. I plan on adding a battery disconnect inside the car in the event I need to kill power.
Great video and I love your wiring layout :-). Could I just ask what your black panel is made of that you have everything fixed to?
That’s just a 1/8” piece of plastic I got from the local hardware store
@@DAPerform that’s what I thought but had to check 👌🏼
Do you have a video about the "data logger" you refer to? If so, I can't find it. Thank You.
The data logger I referenced is just a switch on the switch panel that is an input to the Holley ecu which I have not used and just a trans brake trigger to activate the data log
Good job
Hey bro i think you should add a link of amazon for each product👍🏼 thanks
The problem with Amazon and links is that don’t always stick around. Most of the time the links will pull up something they can’t find
The Deutsche connectors are nice to run.
Have to watch the quality though . Some of that eBay stuff is actually a real soft plastic . Is the IWSS(?!) kit hard plastic ?
There is a part number HDP20 connector (like a bulkhead ) but can use it as either , that is a 100 amp plug assembly.
So far so good the iwss kit seems to be pretty good quality. Nothing seems out of the norm other than the price compared to brand name Deutsch connector
Hey brother have a question what gauge wire is powering that board?
I have a short 4gauge power lead from the battery bulkhead fitting going to the board
where did you get the magnetic zip tie mounts ?
Wire care sells them and also Amazon
What are you using for a vehicle load ELD? Very important component.
Not sure I know what your talking about
@@DAPerform You should study up on the ELD. (Electronic load detector) it's very important for alternator charging loads
what kind of materials do you use when naming the wire for easy reminder
That’s the nice thing about the precision wiring and fabrication kit. All the wires are leaves every 12” with what it’s for example relay A wire says relay A on the wire itself align with every wire in the kit
@@DAPerform Yeah what do you call the item you use in name tagging the different wires for easy remembering
@@kimwenceslaosanchez4449 I don’t use anything to label the wires. They are already labeled
@@DAPerform ahh the white paper ? thanks
Is there need for relays if you have one big cable going to a fuse box and from the fuse box to all devices like radiator fan, fuel pump, powerwindows etc. Before the fusebox you add a battery killswitch, evertime you stop driving, use the killswitch to disactivate the fuse box. Am I right with my thoughts?
I think I understand what you mean, but that just sounds dangerous lol
@@DAPerform Why dangerous? Each device has its own wiring and fuse
@@khancross nothing is being triggered by a relay so they always have power.
Yeah, it's getting to the stage I need a panel. I want to run things my canbus won't allow.
Great work! Love how it's coming out. Quick question if you don't mind, what (if) did you use the 70amp relay ignition output for (the one before A)? I as well got this kit for my car and am a bit stuck on what (if) I should use that relay. Thanks!
That relay is controlled by the ignition switch on my switch panel. The output wire from the relay is connected to the Holley harness and turn on the ecu and dash when I flip the switch on. Regardless of your setup you should use that to turn on whatever ignition setup you have wether it’s a msd box or ecu that controls the ignition on and off
@@DAPerform Thank you for the quick response! I had originally envisioned using one of the 5 ignition outputs on the opposite side of board next to the 3 always hot battery outputs. Any reason to use one of the main relay outputs over the ones I planned on using?
@@davidsalazar4257 the relay is nice because one it’s already there and controlled through the switch. It can handle way more power and also act as a safety the ignition output wire are much smaller wire and cannot maintain the load of current most ignition sources require. It boils down to safety and the fact that it’s already there. I actually had a hard time trying to figure out how to use all 8 relays since most of them can be used to power multiple systems fans, intercoolers, pumps and what not.
@@DAPerform Awesome! Great explanation I appreciate your help/advice! Goodluck with rest of car
@@davidsalazar4257 No problem, thanks for watching!
Nice!
Hey did you have them custom make this whole thing? I can't find anything that looks like the kit you have.
It’s a complete wiring kit from Precisionfabandwire.com. The link is in the video description.
I have the leash board and Holley but I only have two 70 amp relays that are ground triggered and I need three. Any advice on how to make a third one ground triggered or can I just get a bigger relay and put two of the fans together?
The first thing I would check is how much amps the fans are drawing. It also depends on what kind of fans wether that are brushless or slow start fans
Whats your opinion on the k&r kit and the racewire solutions kit vs this one , trying to decide which one to go with , thanks
I see you found my other video. You can see why I chose this kit it’s extremely user friendly and almost dummy proof. Hands down the best wiring and relay board combo is from precision wiring and fabrication. But thats just my unbiased opinion
@@DAPerform what about like gauges and stuff , which my car will be a carbed nitrous deal , I've never wired a car so I'm just trying to figure out what's best , and how did you wire in the neutral safety, thanks
@@Justin-g5k2i the neutral safety is built into the board with two terminals, very simple. It’s all dependent on what your needs are the relay board has a lot of extra outputs as well
@@DAPerform only other thing I'm concerned with is that if you have a relay failure you can't replace the relay you have to send it back , that could cost you a race if your at the track
@@Justin-g5k2i I’m not sure if they are replaceable or not but you’ve got a good point
Where in Florida are you located?
Clearwater area
What are those clamps you used for the board bud?
Those 1 5/8 cushion clamps with a rivnut on the back side so it’s easy to install and remove if necessary
What's the product you used to spray on the interior? (Black)
It’s called raptor liner by U-pol
What’s the name of the doitch connector kit *
Ewss it’s from Amazon. Seems to be a pretty decent kit for the price
Does the relay board power the switch panel?
Yes, the wires on the top of the board are all for the switch panel
@@DAPerform how do you like the switch panel? I’m looking at the ARC panel but I’m not sure..
@@Kamikaze_Kobra love it so far, haven’t had any type of power to it but the wiring process have bee n very smooth so far. I’ve heard some not so great things about the arc panels
@@DAPerform thanks man.. I have seen some issues with the ARC as well. Please let us know how you like the panel once you get to use its functions :)
@@Kamikaze_Kobra if I could get my arc flat touch switch pannel to work with a leash street strip board I'd do that. Haven't had any issues out of my ARC pannel but would like the features the leash relay board has.
If anyone has a car that rywire makes a harness for and is curious about quality. Rywire makes a very nice harness for the cars they do make them for.
@@anotherdedchannel this is for DIY
متابعه من العراق❤
Oh check out this car wiring. Love yours but check this stuff out. It’s what I’m using on my new race car. ISIS Power cells.
Bad ass how the cells work.
Nice
404 page not found on your link
@@VCMAutoGroup fixed
❤❤Good work sir❤❤
🪛🪛I am auto electrician from India 🔧🔧
You from ????
Wiring looks nice, but the camera work is giving me vertigo. Camera pans should be S L O W. Or use a tripod.
Not the pink cables 😭😭😭
The only pink wires are the 12v ignition wires on the right hand side 😂
Those kits are like $1300
That’s correct. If you price out all the wiring you need that comes with the kit the terminals and the time to labels each wire and do a pull test on every crimp it’s worth the money.