Hey Taryl Fixes All, Thanks for your videos... I successfully added drain plugs to my 2008 model JD LA 125 with 200hrs on it. Very clean on the inside but now has a fresh charge of oil and it works great! I butted it up to a tree, both forward and reverse will spin the tires. Well Done Mister. Thank You.
Well I am going to give a shout out to Cox Mowers in Australia. They use this transmission in my Ride On and it has the drain plugs already. It even has a filler container and tube under the seat cavity to allow for the refill of oil. No removing the transaxle for me this time. I will do it in future to clean the magnets and change the filter, but not the first time. Gotta love that Coxee.
Hey just recently bought an old Cox Lawn Boss 13HP for a few hundred off a guy that gave up trying to fix it (won't start, electrical issue). I plan to get it going and do a bit of an overhaul on engine top end (obvious signs of leaking through valve cover and possibly cylinder head gasket), as well as service the transmission. I only just got it home and haven't even begun looking at it yet. I did notice though that under seat I do see the expansion/filler container -- completely empty though. Can I assume that my transmission should also have the oil drain plug then as well? Would you recommend me still removing the transaxle and opening it up to clean filter, magnets, and inspect gears, etc?
Great Video Taryl ! This should be required watching for all Tuff Torque K46 owners be they John Deere, Husqvarna, Cub Cadet or other MTD mower, etc., etc., etc.....
Jiminy crickets!!! I am literally ON THE EDGE OF MY SEAT waiting on you to open that repair kit box!!! Been hoping you would do this for years!!! Hopefully the "later date" you refer to is next week...Thanks so much in advance Taryl. Love you on the interscreen. :-)
My T40A started slipping, saw your vids on messing with this trans with drains. I didn't want to pull the trans so I drilled out the bosses from underneath. What a mess, the drill really flings the oil around :). I tapped out the holes for 3/8 pipe pulgs. I'll use a garden sprayer with oil in it to bottom fill the case until it overflows out the top. Sort of like filling the lower on an outboard motor. Thanks for the ideas.
I spoke to the tech support at tuff torq this morning and was informed they no longer support the drain plug option. They recommend an initial oil and filter change at 50 hours and then again every 200 hours after. The advised method going forward is to split the case, clean the magnets, and change the filter. Their service kit is $75 and includes everything you need. Just pull the model and serial number off the sticker on the case and order the correct kit off their website. Hope this helps.
Thanks, just ordered 2ea. drain plugs. You mentioned that the transmission case is divided into 2 sections hence why it has 2 drain plugs. My question is does the oil get to both cavities from one common fill hole? I gather it would also be a good idea to rotate the gearset while at the high mark to aide in that? Or just fill it to the required level and forget about it? Thanks for sharing this VERY informative video!!!
Oh yeah I remember those days. I decided to look at my Tuff Torqs and it wasn't bad. I wish I would have known about the plugs. But it was great to open it up for the first time to check all the magnets. Mine wasn't that bad though..then ended up doing another transmission for someone. LOL I can't believe the drawing skills of little johnny...lol Grandpa what was that smell...still can't stop laughing...lol
This is the best video on planned obsolesce that has been made. There's a reason that over time things fail. Acute or chronic. What is upsetting is that the transmission manufacturer provided an answer to longevity that a company green deere chose not to use. As to why we all know the answer. If you walk up to a vehicle and you can't check all the fluids, stop and think why? Then walk away Renee.
Awesome comic relief. Great info and tips too!! IDK your real name but tyvm for taking the time and effort you put into the videos. Grass rat A-a-ron out.
The biggest issue with K46 - 56 Series TuffTorq units are the lack of oil fill and drain. But don't blame TuffTorq. This problem resides with John Deere, Husqvarna, Cadet, etc. They want the cheapest transmission costs, even if it means saving pennies on the dollar. In almost 99.9% of applications that use the K46 base model, to refill the transmission has to come out of the chassis. At that point, you might as well take the bottom case off as shown to clean, inspect and replace seals, filter and refill with synthetic 5W50. Allot of the times, K46 models will need to replace the power and drive cylinders along with the center-case, if the magnets are packed with metal shavings. I have machined these components with good success if both center-case cylinder faces are not severely scored. This can save $200-$300. (US). Here in Canada, these 3 components can cost upwards of $500.00 + (Cdn) shipping and taxes. What's needed is a top side case fill tube kit that avoids the fan / pulley / belt assembly. I've tried to make a low cost kit without success. Last year TuffTorq introduced a top mount fill reservoir for the latest K46 model. I'm not sure if it retrofits and still fit in older lawn tractor models, let alone modify the rear top deck seat area to get access to it given the placement of most fuel tanks directly below the seat. The key to any kind of extended life for these transmissions is changing the oil every 50 / 100 hours (depending on type of use summer only or year round). Having rebuilt about 200 of these, there are some strange abuses some operators have put these things through. I dunno about Taryl, but I've seen these units begin to fail in less than 150 hours of light use. The average is about 200-225 hours before some kind of failure has occurred. Mainly because the oil hasn't been changed, despite the fact John Deere and others stating these are sealed lifetime units. TuffTorq publishes oil change intervals depending on the model. Using high quality oil and changing it regularly, these units in non-commercial service can easily exceed 300+ hrs before a major teardown is needed. Truth is, *most* consumers keep a lawn tractor less than 7 -10 years and average 20 hours of lawn cutting per year (and no winter use). So many do not carry out any transmitting service unless it breaks. So from John Deere marketing and procurement perspective, why add expensive maintenance options that reduces profit. That's the reality for owners of this class of lawn tractor; it's a throwaway item after 7 - 10 years of light use. A K66 / 72 / 92 costs 3 - 5 times as much and available only on commerical / professional grade tractors.
@@billharris3049 Thanks for the comment. But as you heard in the video, Taryl will cover the common issues and problems with the K-46 in a future video. And I think we all prefer his compared to anyone else's!!
"The key to any kind of extended life for these transmissions is Changing the oil every 50 /100 hours of use" if you have to change the oil that frequent to keep it working as it should than it was junk to begin with. Its supposed to be a sealed units that doesn't require any service for the life of the lawnmower. Hence the not having the ability to change fluid and a filter. These units are NOT CHEAP for what they cost to replace or repair they should be more durable. These units are not subjected to extreme speed or tourqe situations.. it's on a mower powered by a belt that can slip not a shaft that won't give. They over heat and warp then the seals leak out the fluid and then it's burnt and ruined. The blame for the unit failure falls squarely on tuff tourqe. Not the nahcine it's installed on.. their profit margins could take a hit to give consumers what they are paying for without them losing any sleep but they don't. They want to get as much money as they can for their crap with minimal costs to shit it out.
Well I mow acres of fields, 100 hours a year, got 600 hours till the diff gears failed suddenly. Replacement 46 trans at my JD dealer $990. Had one in stock. That tells you it's a fast moving item. Easy 1.5 hour replacement do it yerself X350. Disappointing service life from John Deere.
Interesting. I've been servicing a 2002 Simplicity riding mower. Drain and fill plugs are on it. Drained and filled with 10w30 Rotella T5. 600 hrs and runs great. Use 10w30 Mobil 1 High Mileage oil in B&S Intek V Twin.
Thank you taryl, you do a very good job of explaining how to repair things, I was wondering-since the filter is a screen, could you just thoroughly clean and reuse it?
Hi Tarryle. At 12:38 you mentioned two separate cavities silicones Separate. Question: So how would the oil get to both Separate areas from just the one Filler hole by the fan? Thanks very much. Love your channel. Full of great information. I appreciate it.
I wondered the same thing! I suspect there is a cross through hole somewhere that connects the two cavities and the bridge between them is simply for structural strength.
After watching twice I think once the fluid level gets up high enough on the one side it starts to spill over on the other side. Then keep a close eye on it as the other side fills so you don’t spill it all over.
This all is nice ! But my question is ,when u drain the unit when in the tractor how are u gonna fill it back up ? Looks really really easy sitting on that bench !
That's machine-specific.. Some will have a fill access hole below the seat. Others will have a filler neck. Yes, some you may need to drop the trans anyway but probably not usually ~
Planned obsolescence. By the flat areas in the low places on the casting it does look like the engineer who designed it thought of drain plugs. Then it crossed the bean counter's desk, and a GM moment occurred. I say GM moment because a few years ago a co worker bought his daughter a Cobalt, and it didn't even have a transmission dipstick. Throw away world.
Awesome videos Carol you should be a H.S. shop teacher. Sad today they don't offer small engine classes in H. S. Boy i reminisce my Freshman year 1980 learning how to rip these machines down & put them back together!
Good to see Little Johnny applying his artistic ability! LOL! You would think they would just pre-install those drain plugs when they precast those holes. A lot of work to drain that transmission without those plugs. Good video Taryl, I enjoyed it as always!
But why should I install the drain plugs ? If I want an oil change I also need to change the filter. Either way I have to disassemble, clean and reseal this small tub from the transmission unit, because the transmission filter is inside the transmission Am I missing something please explain.
Great video. Says a lot about corporations and the fact they wouldn't spend the quarter to put drain plugs in from the get go. Just sell you a new mower when this one craps out.
They spend a fortune on advertising while word of mouth for doing stupid things keeps making them look like jackasses. I know how they could recoup that quarter on every unit. Raise the price 25 cents. They're already a giant rip-off.
I replaced a lot of axle seals on those hydros in Cub Cadet mowers. MTD/Cub Cadet has there own kit that comes with axle seals and the rubber plug. At least on the Cub's, the rubber plug is somewhat accessible with the battery ouy.
With the cub im wondering of you could remove the battery pop the cap drop the pan without ever removing it from tractor. Have a xt1 i might just try this out on.
It's nice to have those two drain plugs on the bottom of the transmission, but I have a John Deere with the K46 transmission, and the space above the transmission with it installed in the riding mower is so close I still have to remove the transmission from the riding mower in order to refill the transmission, anyway. So, I just remove the transmission from the riding mower, flip it upside down over the bucket with the fill cap removed and let it drain out over a couple hours, refill and replace the cap and reinstall the transmission into the riding mower. Once you do this it really becomes easy. It will take you 15 minutes to remove the transmission, and 15 minutes to reinstall. While you have it out and draining over the bucket, you can go have a couple beers under the shade tree.
a guy gave me a very nice looking John Deere rider because the dealer told him that the transaxle was shot and you couldn't repair that type of transaxle so the gave it to me, I did some checking and found that the dealer lied to him, I got the part that was bad, replaced it and it worked great and after using it for a year or two, I sold it to someone who just couldn't live with out it so, yes, they can be repaired.
Another excellent tutorial. Too bad so many manufacturers will spec that transmission WITHOUT drain plugs. The mighty bean counter usually gets the last word and in the end the consumer pays dearly.
So You install drain plugs then how do you fill the Gear Box after it's back installed in mower . Is there enough room to get to the plugs to refill Gear Box ?
Wow this is crazy! Almost a year ago I bought a exmark walk behind with a blown up motor and the weekend I was swapping the motor tarly uploaded a video on swapping a motor on the exact mower I was doing it on!! Now this weekend I am working on rebuilding this same transaxle and he post a video on it. 🤔
I don't see a way to get to the filter without removing that cover. Did I miss something? Also, if the two halves are sealed from each other why only one fill hole? I guess I could go look for schematics on their web site, but I'm going to take the lazy way and just ask Taryl.
Wow ,you had a great eye for DA TAIL ! I missed that,i used to do R&D and drilled a lot of drain holes in stuff,but i missed that detail myself.HEY TARYL,WHY is that? does the level of the fluid spill over to the other side in spite of the sealer ? There must be be a low spot that the level of oil is high enough to allow 2nd chamber to fill.The 2 drains do make sense,to me though.LITTLE Johnny is spending a little to much time in the bathroom by himself 1/2 hour to pee is just too darn long,Oh wait....he's OK he's got his coloring book.....Hustler...Got if from GRAND PA
When the transmission is sitting right side up it's sealed around the outside and then the axle is sealed separately but has different compartments but they don't go all the way to the top it's like two sinks in a bathroom if one fills all the way up it will overflow into the next sink and well more likely the counter not the greatest example
What's less clear to me is this same trans is used in some models with an oil reservoir above the trans, thus the oil level is up over the gear case, far above the level discussed in the diagram.
Ok I have a question. The Tranny is a John Deere K46BR. Only 17 hrs and uses JD Hy Gard oil. The filler cap in inaccessible (JD has gas tank in the way). If I add drain plugs at 100 hrs, clean magnets & bottom cover..., can I siphon out using drill pump from vent cap assuming I'll always have to buy a spare vent cap? I like the idea of oil drained from bottom to get rid of debris. Your thoughts. Thanks.
I sold my LT-166 due to this issue,the hydro was sealed and I was told by the dealer to just run it until it blew up. This didn't set well with me Tayrl and crew,so after the second summer of owning the LT-166,I sold it and bought a new LX-288,this model had a external level reservoir,with drain plug and had the beefier K-66 hydro in it.
Great Video and thank you! I installed the drain plugs in a Husqvarna mower with a K46 transmission. Now I'm going to install drain plugs on a John Deer X320. I am thinking about placing a drain plug right under the filter. Any reason that I shouldn't install it there?
Long time sub. Hey Taryl, I have a question for ya if you get a chance to think about it ,I have a 62 cc chainsaw and it will sit there and idle on its own for around 8 or 10 seconds then it speeds up a little and then just dies. What do ya think I should look at ,any help will be greatly appreciated. Great channel
Any suggestions on where to add grease in a 1992 Craftsman transmission? Everything works great, shifts smooth, and I really don't want to disassemble it to clean it out, but I figured adding a little more wouldn't hurt. It uses grease and not oil, however.
I am missing something. If you need to add 2 drain plugs because the differential and the transmission are separate, how can you fill the unit from just a single opening?
I know this is an old comment but figured in case someone else is here and confused... Two drains are needed because there are two cavities that fluid can settle into. Yes fluid coming in from the fill port (or being pumped around) can come in the top of either of these two wells but it won't be able to exit until the fluid level in the low spot gets up over the wall around it and it can overflow. If you only put in one drain you would leave a bunch of fluid in the other low area of the pan/transmission.
I have. Yard machine model 679 . It’s a 1998 model. I had the trans replaced once due to a backyard flood. It’s making some noise from the rear (howling) at higher speeds. It doesent have any drain plugs and I’m trying to figure out how to drain and refill mine. I’m not opposed to adding drain/refill plugs. Just looking for advice. My trans model is 618-0163B.
I figure like this. I purchased my LA 115 in 2008. Never had a problem with it at 260 hrs runs great. if I do it one time without putting those drain plugs. I'm headed again of game.
I just use an extraction pump to replace the oil every season. No filters or anything else. Extract and re-fill. But mine are hydro-gear. (I’m speaking in my high pitched voice.) 😅
Drain plugs are nice but there is usually no way to fill the transmission from the top when it's in the tractor. Still have to remove it and fill it anyway which allows you to thoroughly clean the top of the trans where all the debris collects in the cooling fins.
Take the rear left side wheel off use a long flat head driver, then pop off cap with magnet. To fill back up but a pump kit at local parts store that has a pump & hose that mounts on top of oil container now pump oil in!
I just got a craftsman ys4500 from a friend to mow our new house. Lots of hills and after 30 minutes, the mower loses power up the hill. I tried draining the oil out without removing the Trans and only got .75 qt out and it looked like chocolate milk. Is it worth taking apart to do the drain plug kit or just get a different mower?
wow taryl nice video that lego toy little johnny had was the same thing i had that race truck thing good work on the videos helpful hints youve saved me a lot thanks
Good timing. I have an 1989 Noma riding mower and a John Deere LX178 with "Tuff-Tuck" transmission that are on their last leg. Does it worth rebuilding them as a hobby or it is a waste of time ?
You only need to put oil in one hole....use the breather hole...keep in mind, you will need a new breather. The oil will go to both compartments. You still need to remover that cover to clean/change that filter and the internal magnet !....and remove the trans to clean the magnet at the oil fill. It will be deceiving to drain the oil and assume the internal parts are good because of no metal in the oil....remember, its nearly a sealed system...the only contamination the oil can get is metal...no liquids or chunks of dirt...just possibly dust from the breather. Only liquid it could get would be if you take the tractor for a swim.
ho dude, for fyi as you already know, when drilling in soft metal and/or sheet-metal located in a difficult spot and you do not want to break your wrist, the drill bit can be like de-edged? a drill bit video could be interesting for use shade tree fixers? plus sponsored by the tool people. thanks, nice trans video. :)
Dang taryl it's like you can read our minds ! Hey hey taryl why didn't clean that part better! You do a dam good job explaining to us knuckle heads! Thanks for dinner!
Thanks for the info Taryl. Just one question: Even if I can now easily drain the oil, if I then can't easily refill it through the vent and have to pull the trans to get the fan off to get to the refill plug, am I any better off to add the drain plugs?
@@PilotViewProductions under the cooling fan, there is a plug. Pull the plug and there is a magnet under it too. Clean the magnet, an refill using that plug hole.
Hi Taryl. I have the K46 but I also see in the oil recommendation that the K46 is 10w-30, then I see K46 BF, CB, DS (whatever these are) needs 5w-50. Also K46 BD, BE, BR, CC (whatever these are too) uses Hy-Gard Hi Viscosity. What the heck is that even. So confusing. So which does the K46 require ?? Some say, 5w-50, other say 15w-50, some say 10w-30. Arrrghh !!!
Hey Taryl Fixes All, Thanks for your videos... I successfully added drain plugs to my 2008 model JD LA 125 with 200hrs on it. Very clean on the inside but now has a fresh charge of oil and it works great! I butted it up to a tree, both forward and reverse will spin the tires. Well Done Mister. Thank You.
Well I am going to give a shout out to Cox Mowers in Australia. They use this transmission in my Ride On and it has the drain plugs already. It even has a filler container and tube under the seat cavity to allow for the refill of oil. No removing the transaxle for me this time. I will do it in future to clean the magnets and change the filter, but not the first time. Gotta love that Coxee.
Hey just recently bought an old Cox Lawn Boss 13HP for a few hundred off a guy that gave up trying to fix it (won't start, electrical issue). I plan to get it going and do a bit of an overhaul on engine top end (obvious signs of leaking through valve cover and possibly cylinder head gasket), as well as service the transmission. I only just got it home and haven't even begun looking at it yet. I did notice though that under seat I do see the expansion/filler container -- completely empty though. Can I assume that my transmission should also have the oil drain plug then as well? Would you recommend me still removing the transaxle and opening it up to clean filter, magnets, and inspect gears, etc?
Love that deliverance t-shirt Taryl. It's my favorite documentary. 👍
Great Video Taryl ! This should be required watching for all Tuff Torque K46 owners be they John Deere, Husqvarna, Cub Cadet or other MTD mower, etc., etc., etc.....
Jiminy crickets!!! I am literally ON THE EDGE OF MY SEAT waiting on you to open that repair kit box!!! Been hoping you would do this for years!!! Hopefully the "later date" you refer to is next week...Thanks so much in advance Taryl. Love you on the interscreen. :-)
My T40A started slipping, saw your vids on messing with this trans with drains. I didn't want to pull the trans so I drilled out the bosses from underneath. What a mess, the drill really flings the oil around :). I tapped out the holes for 3/8 pipe pulgs. I'll use a garden sprayer with oil in it to bottom fill the case until it overflows out the top. Sort of like filling the lower on an outboard motor. Thanks for the ideas.
I spoke to the tech support at tuff torq this morning and was informed they no longer support the drain plug option. They recommend an initial oil and filter change at 50 hours and then again every 200 hours after. The advised method going forward is to split the case, clean the magnets, and change the filter. Their service kit is $75 and includes everything you need. Just pull the model and serial number off the sticker on the case and order the correct kit off their website. Hope this helps.
Did they say why they no longer recommend the addition of drain plugs?
I think I would just by the bolts washers and do it anyways
Good idea on the drain plugs, and good job Taryl! "Mower on a Turd"...LOL you guys are the best!
Taryl voice when imitating critics.........PRICELESS! 🤣
Thanks, just ordered 2ea. drain plugs. You mentioned that the transmission case is divided into 2 sections hence why it has 2 drain plugs. My question is does the oil get to both cavities from one common fill hole? I gather it would also be a good idea to rotate the gearset while at the high mark to aide in that? Or just fill it to the required level and forget about it? Thanks for sharing this VERY informative video!!!
Oh yeah I remember those days. I decided to look at my Tuff Torqs and it wasn't bad. I wish I would have known about the plugs. But it was great to open it up for the first time to check all the magnets. Mine wasn't that bad though..then ended up doing another transmission for someone.
LOL I can't believe the drawing skills of little johnny...lol Grandpa what was that smell...still can't stop laughing...lol
This is the best video on planned obsolesce that has been made. There's a reason that over time things fail. Acute or chronic. What is upsetting is that the transmission manufacturer provided an answer to longevity that a company green deere chose not to use. As to why we all know the answer. If you walk up to a vehicle and you can't check all the fluids, stop and think why? Then walk away Renee.
Awesome comic relief. Great info and tips too!! IDK your real name but tyvm for taking the time and effort you put into the videos. Grass rat A-a-ron out.
The biggest issue with K46 - 56 Series TuffTorq units are the lack of oil fill and drain.
But don't blame TuffTorq. This problem resides with John Deere, Husqvarna, Cadet, etc. They want the cheapest transmission costs, even if it means saving pennies on the dollar. In almost 99.9% of applications that use the K46 base model, to refill the transmission has to come out of the chassis. At that point, you might as well take the bottom case off as shown to clean, inspect and replace seals, filter and refill with synthetic 5W50.
Allot of the times, K46 models will need to replace the power and drive cylinders along with the center-case, if the magnets are packed with metal shavings.
I have machined these components with good success if both center-case cylinder faces are not severely scored. This can save $200-$300. (US).
Here in Canada, these 3 components can cost upwards of $500.00 + (Cdn) shipping and taxes.
What's needed is a top side case fill tube kit that avoids the fan / pulley / belt assembly. I've tried to make a low cost kit without success. Last year TuffTorq introduced a top mount fill reservoir for the latest K46 model. I'm not sure if it retrofits and still fit in older lawn tractor models, let alone modify the rear top deck seat area to get access to it given the placement of most fuel tanks directly below the seat.
The key to any kind of extended life for these transmissions is changing the oil every 50 / 100 hours (depending on type of use summer only or year round).
Having rebuilt about 200 of these, there are some strange abuses some operators have put these things through. I dunno about Taryl, but I've seen these units begin to fail in less than 150 hours of light use. The average is about 200-225 hours before some kind of failure has occurred. Mainly because the oil hasn't been changed, despite the fact John Deere and others stating these are sealed lifetime units. TuffTorq publishes oil change intervals depending on the model.
Using high quality oil and changing it regularly, these units in non-commercial service can easily exceed 300+ hrs before a major teardown is needed. Truth is, *most* consumers keep a lawn tractor less than 7 -10 years and average 20 hours of lawn cutting per year (and no winter use). So many do not carry out any transmitting service unless it breaks. So from John Deere marketing and procurement perspective, why add expensive maintenance options that reduces profit. That's the reality for owners of this class of lawn tractor; it's a throwaway item after 7 - 10 years of light use. A K66 / 72 / 92 costs 3 - 5 times as much and available only on commerical / professional grade tractors.
You sir should do some UA-cam vids on this subject...I would subscribe to that!
@@billharris3049 Thanks for the comment. But as you heard in the video, Taryl will cover the common issues and problems with the K-46 in a future video. And I think we all prefer his compared to anyone else's!!
"The key to any kind of extended life for these transmissions is Changing the oil every 50 /100 hours of use" if you have to change the oil that frequent to keep it working as it should than it was junk to begin with. Its supposed to be a sealed units that doesn't require any service for the life of the lawnmower. Hence the not having the ability to change fluid and a filter. These units are NOT CHEAP for what they cost to replace or repair they should be more durable. These units are not subjected to extreme speed or tourqe situations.. it's on a mower powered by a belt that can slip not a shaft that won't give. They over heat and warp then the seals leak out the fluid and then it's burnt and ruined. The blame for the unit failure falls squarely on tuff tourqe. Not the nahcine it's installed on.. their profit margins could take a hit to give consumers what they are paying for without them losing any sleep but they don't. They want to get as much money as they can for their crap with minimal costs to shit it out.
Well I mow acres of fields, 100 hours a year, got 600 hours till the diff gears failed suddenly. Replacement 46 trans at my JD dealer $990. Had one in stock. That tells you it's a fast moving item. Easy 1.5 hour replacement do it yerself X350. Disappointing service life from John Deere.
Interesting. I've been servicing a 2002 Simplicity riding mower. Drain and fill plugs are on it. Drained and filled with 10w30 Rotella T5. 600 hrs and runs great. Use 10w30 Mobil 1 High Mileage oil in B&S Intek V Twin.
Thanks!
Tank You Daryl great detail has always. would of like to see that part number of the seal kit i will look it up. thanks again
Thank you taryl, you do a very good job of explaining how to repair things, I was wondering-since the filter is a screen, could you just thoroughly clean and reuse it?
Been following yall for a while and sure do enjoy watching the videos. Thank yall!!!!
Hi Tarryle. At 12:38 you mentioned two separate cavities silicones Separate. Question: So how would the oil get to both Separate areas from just the one Filler hole by the fan? Thanks very much. Love your channel. Full of great information. I appreciate it.
I wondered the same thing! I suspect there is a cross through hole somewhere that connects the two cavities and the bridge between them is simply for structural strength.
After watching twice I think once the fluid level gets up high enough on the one side it starts to spill over on the other side. Then keep a close eye on it as the other side fills so you don’t spill it all over.
It looks like the five gallon bucket makes a good transmission stand.
Ya
i just put a old blanket on my plywood table and its done.
Yep 😁
That's more likely what I would have used myself.
Taryl’s makin the big bucks, he can afford the fancy stand and such!
This all is nice ! But my question is ,when u drain the unit when in the tractor how are u gonna fill it back up ? Looks really really easy sitting on that bench !
My question also.
Ditto. Where’s the video with the DIY fix for that???
That's machine-specific.. Some will have a fill access hole below the seat. Others will have a filler neck. Yes, some you may need to drop the trans anyway but probably not usually ~
Not doing this at the factory is simply criminal.
Oh, they did on my 2000 K46
Planned obsolescence. By the flat areas in the low places on the casting it does look like the engineer who designed it thought of drain plugs. Then it crossed the bean counter's desk, and a GM moment occurred.
I say GM moment because a few years ago a co worker bought his daughter a Cobalt, and it didn't even have a transmission dipstick. Throw away world.
@@Freedomquest08 Mercedes does it too. lifetime ATF. maybe less warranty issues if dummies can't get in there
@@Freedomquest08 yes cobalts were trash
@@Freedomquest08 same for the early ford PTUs, no drain.......they burn up in less than 100k miles
Awesome videos Carol you should be a H.S. shop teacher. Sad today they don't offer small engine classes in H. S. Boy i reminisce my Freshman year 1980 learning how to rip these machines down & put them back together!
Would using 5w50 synthetic oil in a K46 be ok? If not what would happen to the trans? Thanks , Great channel!
Good to see Little Johnny applying his artistic ability! LOL! You would think they would just pre-install those drain plugs when they precast those holes. A lot of work to drain that transmission without those plugs. Good video Taryl, I enjoyed it as always!
But why should I install the drain plugs ? If I want an oil change I also need to change the filter. Either way I have to disassemble, clean and reseal this small tub from the transmission unit, because the transmission filter is inside the transmission
Am I missing something please explain.
@@ImplantedMemories That's a good point. Why put the filter inside the damn thing?
Sounds like a good time to go take a good long piss...
Yeah, well, I just pour it on the driveway to keep the dust down...
little johnny need to grow into his teeth, but he sure can draw,
I knew it you do watch these videos
I've seen you have the mugs
Mustie are you spying on the competition?.....Hahahahahaha
Mustie1.... where’s your teeth? If ya ain’t got your teeth...then ya can’t eat your dinner!!! LMFFAO!
The outtakes are hilarious. Keep it up guys. Love what y’all are doing.
Great video. Says a lot about corporations and the fact they wouldn't spend the quarter to put drain plugs in from the get go. Just sell you a new mower when this one craps out.
@@gfriedman99 that made me laugh!
@Richard Daugherty Yes, they do.
They spend a fortune on advertising while word of mouth for doing stupid things keeps making them look like jackasses. I know how they could recoup that quarter on every unit. Raise the price 25 cents. They're already a giant rip-off.
I just suction it out the fill hole on my hydro gear that has no drain and refill with fresh synthetic 20/50. Good enough for me.
I replaced a lot of axle seals on those hydros in Cub Cadet mowers. MTD/Cub Cadet has there own kit that comes with axle seals and the rubber plug. At least on the Cub's, the rubber plug is somewhat accessible with the battery ouy.
With the cub im wondering of you could remove the battery pop the cap drop the pan without ever removing it from tractor. Have a xt1 i might just try this out on.
It's nice to have those two drain plugs on the bottom of the transmission, but I have a John Deere with the K46 transmission, and the space above the transmission with it installed in the riding mower is so close I still have to remove the transmission from the riding mower in order to refill the transmission, anyway. So, I just remove the transmission from the riding mower, flip it upside down over the bucket with the fill cap removed and let it drain out over a couple hours, refill and replace the cap and reinstall the transmission into the riding mower. Once you do this it really becomes easy. It will take you 15 minutes to remove the transmission, and 15 minutes to reinstall.
While you have it out and draining over the bucket, you can go have a couple beers under the shade tree.
Hey Rob, is it necessary to remove the deck each time?
@@PilotViewProductions No, you don't need to remove the deck to remove the transaxle, just the wheels, and the various linkages.
Hi Rob J - I agree with you, my JD L130 with the K46 transaxle, can't be filled without removing it, hence the drain plugs are useless. YMMV.
Rob, ever wonder about the filter? Or how about stirring up harmless debris on the bottom to get another chance to do damage.. just saying
WOW...in Australia the dealer just said $1500 for a new tranny , told me it was a sealed unit , glad I googled here ....and now subscribed
Grandpa couldn't hold his excitment in. 🤣🤣🤣
Or his excrement.
Great info and direction. Teeth and wigs not necessary.
the correct way to mount the axle is one stud up through the stand (front one) and the second (rear screw) down through the axle and hold it solid.
a guy gave me a very nice looking John Deere rider because the dealer told him that the transaxle was shot and you couldn't repair that type of transaxle so the gave it to me, I did some checking and found that the dealer lied to him, I got the part that was bad, replaced it and it worked great and after using it for a year or two, I sold it to someone who just couldn't live with out it so, yes, they can be repaired.
@Taryl Do you have a link for the Drain Plug Kit?
I couldn't find it your links
Another excellent tutorial. Too bad so many manufacturers will spec that transmission WITHOUT drain plugs. The mighty bean counter usually gets the last word and in the end the consumer pays dearly.
So You install drain plugs then how do you fill the Gear Box after it's back installed in mower . Is there enough room to get to the plugs to refill Gear Box ?
Wiping my own ass for years now....what a great comeback. lol
Daryl, what's the parts number for the drain plug kit for the tuff torque transmission?? Can't find it on their website.
Terrific idea bud. Top notch 👍
Simply awesome video.
Thanks for making it.
Wow this is crazy! Almost a year ago I bought a exmark walk behind with a blown up motor and the weekend I was swapping the motor tarly uploaded a video on swapping a motor on the exact mower I was doing it on!! Now this weekend I am working on rebuilding this same transaxle and he post a video on it. 🤔
this is great to have lil johnny back
I don't see a way to get to the filter without removing that cover. Did I miss something? Also, if the two halves are sealed from each other why only one fill hole? I guess I could go look for schematics on their web site, but I'm going to take the lazy way and just ask Taryl.
Wow ,you had a great eye for DA TAIL ! I missed that,i used to do R&D and drilled a lot of drain holes in stuff,but i missed that detail myself.HEY TARYL,WHY is that? does the level of the fluid spill over to the other side in spite of the sealer ? There must be be a low spot that the level of oil is high enough to allow 2nd chamber to fill.The 2 drains do make sense,to me though.LITTLE Johnny is spending a little to much time in the bathroom by himself 1/2 hour to pee is just too darn long,Oh wait....he's OK he's got his coloring book.....Hustler...Got if from GRAND PA
When the transmission is sitting right side up it's sealed around the outside and then the axle is sealed separately but has different compartments but they don't go all the way to the top it's like two sinks in a bathroom if one fills all the way up it will overflow into the next sink and well more likely the counter not the greatest example
@@notdirtyflics1067 Nah man it's a good example.
What's less clear to me is this same trans is used in some models with an oil reservoir above the trans, thus the oil level is up over the gear case, far above the level discussed in the diagram.
LOL you can ask but NO answers
Brilliant video thank you 😀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Ok I have a question. The Tranny is a John Deere K46BR. Only 17 hrs and uses JD Hy Gard oil. The filler cap in inaccessible (JD has gas tank in the way). If I add drain plugs at 100 hrs, clean magnets & bottom cover..., can I siphon out using drill pump from vent cap assuming I'll always have to buy a spare vent cap? I like the idea of oil drained from bottom to get rid of debris. Your thoughts. Thanks.
Mr terl do you have a video where you fix a transmission for a hosquavarna mower
The bucket makes a nice shade tree trans stand too
Thanks, I needed that information for the drain plug locations, keep the videos coming
You'd think the drain points would be at the lowest point in the case. Little Johnny would have engineered it that way, that kid has promise!
I always look forward to these comedy skits, they are great!
What's that smell Grandpa? LMAO! little Johnny.
Love the videos. Watched every one of them.
I sold my LT-166 due to this issue,the hydro was sealed and I was told by the dealer to just run it until it blew up.
This didn't set well with me Tayrl and crew,so after the second summer of owning the LT-166,I sold it and bought a new LX-288,this model had a external level reservoir,with drain plug and had the beefier K-66 hydro in it.
Ya need to put Grandpa on that 5 gallon bucket!
Great Video and thank you! I installed the drain plugs in a Husqvarna mower with a K46 transmission. Now I'm going to install drain plugs on a John Deer X320. I am thinking about placing a drain plug right under the filter. Any reason that I shouldn't install it there?
Was thinking the same. Probably case to thin there. That’s why they have the two bosses.
Great video! I’m going to do this on my husqvarna mower
Long time sub. Hey Taryl, I have a question for ya if you get a chance to think about it ,I have a 62 cc chainsaw and it will sit there and idle on its own for around 8 or 10 seconds then it speeds up a little and then just dies. What do ya think I should look at ,any help will be greatly appreciated. Great channel
Yep, likely leaning out. Try turning low speed mixture screw counterclockwise to see if richening mixture resolves problem.
VERY informative video. THANK you for the confidence for me to do this.
Any suggestions on where to add grease in a 1992 Craftsman transmission? Everything works great, shifts smooth, and I really don't want to disassemble it to clean it out, but I figured adding a little more wouldn't hurt. It uses grease and not oil, however.
what is the part numbers for the drain plug and Dealer tool kit i can't find them on the site
I am missing something. If you need to add 2 drain plugs because the differential and the transmission are separate, how can you fill the unit from just a single opening?
I know this is an old comment but figured in case someone else is here and confused... Two drains are needed because there are two cavities that fluid can settle into. Yes fluid coming in from the fill port (or being pumped around) can come in the top of either of these two wells but it won't be able to exit until the fluid level in the low spot gets up over the wall around it and it can overflow. If you only put in one drain you would leave a bunch of fluid in the other low area of the pan/transmission.
1:40 - Keep an eye on Grandpa. Seemed a little too eager to "help out".
Oh good lawd !
Great video. Thanks
I have. Yard machine model 679 .
It’s a 1998 model.
I had the trans replaced once due to a backyard flood.
It’s making some noise from the rear (howling) at higher speeds.
It doesent have any drain plugs and I’m trying to figure out how to drain and refill mine.
I’m not opposed to adding drain/refill plugs.
Just looking for advice.
My trans model is 618-0163B.
What good are the drain plugs when you still have to remove the transmission off the tractor and remove the cover to change the filter?
No comment
8 mm 1.25 thread pitch. Time stamp 23:08
@@HB-yq8gy ?
You do have a point there.
I figure like this. I purchased my LA 115 in 2008. Never had a problem with it at 260 hrs runs great. if I do it one time without putting those drain plugs. I'm headed again of game.
Ya hone Taryls drawing is pretty good. I put a 5 hp engine on a mower that had a 2.5 but 10hp it’ll chew through anything.
Thought it was only my DeWalt chuck that slipped like that. Now I know! Oh, and I love that song “Long bolts go in the center”, it’s a snappy tune
Nice shirt Taryl!
Taryl I need you Jr and slippers to move to Georgia so we can have some great lawnmower people😁😁😁
I just use an extraction pump to replace the oil every season. No filters or anything else. Extract and re-fill. But mine are hydro-gear. (I’m speaking in my high pitched voice.) 😅
😂😂😅😂
Drain plugs are nice but there is usually no way to fill the transmission from the top when it's in the tractor. Still have to remove it and fill it anyway which allows you to thoroughly clean the top of the trans where all the debris collects in the cooling fins.
Some models have an oil reservoir above the trans. Theoretically you can extend the air vent up with the right connection.
Take the rear left side wheel off use a long flat head driver, then pop off cap with magnet. To fill back up but a pump kit at local parts store that has a pump & hose that mounts on top of oil container now pump oil in!
Your skit was so funny my wife had to change my diaper too😂
Excellent as always!!!
I just got a craftsman ys4500 from a friend to mow our new house. Lots of hills and after 30 minutes, the mower loses power up the hill. I tried draining the oil out without removing the Trans and only got .75 qt out and it looked like chocolate milk. Is it worth taking apart to do the drain plug kit or just get a different mower?
taryl for president 2020,, send the hamms to help the cause
wow taryl nice video that lego toy little johnny had was the same thing i had that race truck thing good work on the videos helpful hints youve saved me a lot thanks
Good timing. I have an 1989 Noma riding mower and a John Deere LX178 with "Tuff-Tuck" transmission that are on their last leg. Does it worth rebuilding them as a hobby or it is a waste of time ?
If you can find spare parts and the machine is otherwise in good condition then absolutely.
How many hours should one change the oil. I have Deere's lx176 and lt160. A great show as always.
TuffTorq recommends to change after 50 hrs and then every 200 hrs and use 5W-50 Synthetic of TuffTorq's branded oil.
When you refill through the fill hole located under the fan, it will fill both compartments. Is that correct?
Have you ever thought of doing something with Mustie1? You guys could do some fun and interesting things on each other's channels!
So how easy or should I say hard is it to get to the fill holes when the trans is mounted in the mower?
Almost impossible.
You only need to put oil in one hole....use the breather hole...keep in mind, you will need a new breather. The oil will go to both compartments. You still need to remover that cover to clean/change that filter and the internal magnet !....and remove the trans to clean the magnet at the oil fill. It will be deceiving to drain the oil and assume the internal parts are good because of no metal in the oil....remember, its nearly a sealed system...the only contamination the oil can get is metal...no liquids or chunks of dirt...just possibly dust from the breather. Only liquid it could get would be if you take the tractor for a swim.
The filler caps like to crack. The one in the video is a prime example. Oil leaks out and dirt goes in.
I'll have to look for the video on removing the trans, thanks for the info Mr. Dactal.
Goooo Little Johnny, poor Gramps LOL
What were they tractor pulling with that puppy or what? Look at that fluid! Nice Job Teryl and thanks for sharing this sweet info with us!
Great video guys
Great video taryl keep them coming
How many hours did that transmission have on it?
Thanks So much been looking for a good video on how to do this.
You are the best. Thank you.
ho dude, for fyi as you already know, when drilling in soft metal and/or sheet-metal located in a difficult spot and you do not want to break your wrist, the drill bit can be like de-edged? a drill bit video could be interesting for use shade tree fixers? plus sponsored by the tool people. thanks, nice trans video. :)
Dang taryl it's like you can read our minds ! Hey hey taryl why didn't clean that part better! You do a dam good job explaining to us knuckle heads! Thanks for dinner!
Thanks for the info Taryl. Just one question: Even if I can now easily drain the oil, if I then can't easily refill it through the vent and have to pull the trans to get the fan off to get to the refill plug, am I any better off to add the drain plugs?
That’s what I was thinking maybe you could put the oil back in like adding oil to the lower end of a boat motor. Just pump it back in.
Did the same thing to my k46 on my John Deere x304. A lot easier for maintaining the transmission.
How do you refill it?
@@PilotViewProductions under the cooling fan, there is a plug. Pull the plug and there is a magnet under it too. Clean the magnet, an refill using that plug hole.
That was some good info T.
Thanks guys
Are all trans equipped with these precast drain ports.
Hi Taryl. I have the K46 but I also see in the oil recommendation that the K46 is 10w-30, then I see K46 BF, CB, DS (whatever these are) needs 5w-50. Also K46 BD, BE, BR, CC (whatever these are too) uses Hy-Gard Hi Viscosity. What the heck is that even.
So confusing. So which does the K46 require ??
Some say, 5w-50, other say 15w-50, some say 10w-30. Arrrghh !!!
Like to know that myself?