How to install vinyl siding over a roof
Вставка
- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- How to install vinyl siding over a roof area. Including: Counter Flashing, F-Channel, J-Channel, Soffit, Aluminum Brake Metal, and finally Vinyl Siding install. Also including a few tricks and tips for how to get the best job possible. Check the comments for clickable affiliate links to Amazon, thanks and enjoy!
------------------------------------------------------Contents of this video------------------------------------------------------
00:00 - Proper installation of housewrap and counterflashing
06:40 - Measuring the soffit
08:55 - Installing the F-Channel
16:42 - Installing the solid soffit
33:45 - Turning a corner with solid soffit
39:02 - Installing J-Channel
1:01:30 Installing aluminum fascia metal
1:45:40 Making the peak overlaps in fascia metal
1:53:00 Installing the horizontal vinyl siding
2:28:10 Cutting around dryer vent
2:38:00 Finished product :)
2:38:45 Better lighting view of finished product
2:39:02 Explaining what I'm doing next - Навчання та стиль
Hand Tools:
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-or-
(More affordable) Estwing hammer 16oz
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Irwin chalk line amzn.to/3iyfRbD
Andy 3” siding snips amzn.to/3QD05Zv
Malco siding removal zip tool amzn.to/3COkLrw
Malco snap lock punch amzn.to/3Ws0f7r
Malco trim nail punch amzn.to/3XxU6ra
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Equipment:
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Makita dual battery framing saw amzn.to/3H6xI2M
Irwin vinyl siding saw blade amzn.to/3kgDdmy
You forgot to pin this comment.
What is the model of the Paslode siding stapler you use? I recently bought a Bosch stapler with siding adapter that I’m not impressed with at all. I’m having trouble getting consistent stapler depth, maybe that is because I flip houses so my siding is going into old lumber?
@stevebabiak6997 Thanks!
@marvinglass1664 Sorry, just saw this. I am actually struggling to find a decent siding stapler myself. The old Paslode that I use achieves a consistent staple depth regardless of whether or not you hit a stud... The new Paslode seems to be inconsistent, but maybe I just need more practice with it. Sometimes it may take a while to learn the tool. The older stapler is the model S200-s16 with the vinyl siding attachment tip # 219051 VINYL SIDING WCE 2" (which is no longer being manufactured), The new stapler is the model SCS200, but I'm having trouble locating the vinyl siding tip.... It might work to find a good quality 1/2" crown 16 gauge stapler and modify a tip to your liking. Sorry I can't be more help... I'll update this if I find more information.
Damn, I just put one pc of j channel on my roof yesterday and had no clue how to make it follow the few bumps in the roof and take a corner at the end. The idea of keeping it all one piece like you did at 43:37 was brilliant. Now I gotta remove that piece and try again lol. Cheers
Well there you go 😊. Good luck! FYI, most manufacturers call for a 3/4” or so gap underneath the j-channel against roofs because they are concerned about the shingles heating up the j and making it bubble/melt… I live in a cooler part of the country and I’ve never seen an issue with it being installed tight. Also holding the j-channel up leaves the shiny step flashing visible and imo doesn’t look very good.
Im a framing carpenter and always try to setup the next man for success! Just came across you're page tonight and appreciate the craftsmanship, detai, and filming the stuff that you do since it seemed like you are alone! Nice work man from one tradesmen to another
Thanks! Yeah the majority of the time I work alone.
Thanks for sharing real life experience, not edited…. Keep making more videos! Thanks
No problem! More to come!
Thanks for taking your time to share your experience, and expertise! Your video was real life ,not edited!
You’re welcome! I kind of wanted to have it feel like I brought you guys to work with me. :)
There was one person who I would have hired to do carpentry and that's my neighbor who believes in craftmanship. Now after seeing this video there is 2. Thank you for this video and thank you for being one of the rare carpenters that take their time and still believe in doing a good job 🙂
Thank you! We’re out there, you just need to know where to look! 😊
You do terrific work, very good attention to detail. I'm a union sheet metal worker, and very particular with the fine details, nice to see you doing the same. Great job!!
Thanks! That’s high praise from one peer to another! Sounds like you probably have more experience than me when it comes to metal work.
Raw videos that teach effectively for the win.
Thanks! I’m pleasantly surprised at the response these videos are getting. More to come!
Nice work. I like the way you made the corners from a single length of J. Great attention to detail covering the step flashing with white trim coil.
Acute corners like that bottom one are a real PIA, so good on you for having the patience to do it right.
Also, a shout out to the roofers. That weave in the adjacent valley looks great.
Thanks! I find the less you fight with things the easier it goes and the cleaner it looks - leaving the piece connected means I don’t have to line both of them up with each other. I’ll pass the compliment on to the roofers!
Thanks!
My first tip! Thank you! 😊
As a framer, and i know the siding crews tgar come behind us, i leave them little gaps or areas the tuck their coil stock or anything to make their lifes easier, and along with the roofers. Spending an additional 15 mins so the next guys don't swear for 45 minutes is always helpful towards each other
Sounds like your houses would be great to side! It’s good to hear of framers thinking of the next guy in line.
Thanks for the tips
You betcha!
You make it look easy Sir!
Good job 2:40
Thank you! Many years in the trades… think I have my 10,000 hours by now.
Thanks! Thanks for the response
No problem!
Thanks for those great pro tips 👍
No problem!
Great video, thank you!
No problem! More to come.
You’ve became one of my favorite carpenter channels in a short amount of time, love your approach and your work. Is there a chance that you could upload some stuff for framing in the future?
Nice, thanks for your comment! I may do some framing in the future, but I do have a slipped disc so that may well put a damper on that… we’ll see though, maybe I’ll build another shed or two. I did make a time lapse of building a shed a while ago.
Thanks for this video (I realize it's kind of old). I see how it's put together. Ugh... ok I have Vinyl siding that was installed over a roof. Now, 3 years and one windstorm later I need a new roof. Assuming they did it right and there's flashing back there (I remember the Liner going up), is the Roofer going to have to pull the siding to get to the shingles. This kind of sucks. They didn't warn me that (maybe) replacing the roof after the siding is a problem.
The best way to do it is to pull the siding off and turn the corner from the roof and up the wall with ice and water shield… it shouldn’t be too much work because they should be able to put the siding back in the same spot and won’t have to cut or buy any new pieces.
On reroofs I’ve done in the past I have just ripped the old shingles out from underneath the step flashing and then slid the new shingles under without having to remove the siding. So it is very possible to save the old step flashing or regular flashing and leave the siding undisturbed. And it “shouldn’t” cause any problems.
So a lower piece of vinyl siding can come off without the ones above it? I think when they installed they went from the bottom up.
Yes, lower pieces can come off before the top pieces. Although if the upper pieces contact the roof too they may take those off as well, so they would most likely start at the top and work their way down the roof.
Nice!
Thanks!
Great job. Hope i can do nearly as good as you did.
Thanks! And good luck!
Something as easy as us framers leaving the furring strip from where a roof fascia ties into a wall and leaving it away the 1.25" so your j-channel can cruise on by and it gets covered in coil must help you!
One of the easiest situations is when there’s no overhang on a gable end and they pad the fascia out with a piece of strapping… no j-channel, just tuck the siding under the fascia, then put the fascia metal on and you’re done.
You started the video adding a small piece of counter flashing. Did the roofer not adequately flash under the over hang? Also, when water runs down under the overhang to your counter flashing, how does the water leave from under the overhang?
Thanks in advance for your response. I am having reconstruction on my roof, very similar to this video. This video really helps me to understand the roofers, and what to look for.
In my neck of the woods it is common for siders to add these types of counter flashing. The reasons being: they have a metal brake and most roofers don’t - so siders can make it look nicer, and often they can better match the siding colors with the metal available to them. Also it might be hard to tell, but there’s what’s called a ‘cricket’ underneath the overhang that slopes away from the wall and forms a small valley lower down… the cricket diverts the water away from the ‘rake’ soffit and fascia. If your roof slopes down into a wall, chimney, etc. it is highly recommended to frame a small cricket to change the direction of water flow away from the vertical surface (usually you’re able to install step flashing against the vertical wall in these instances). Hope this helps!
Superb job best I've seen Id hire you for my project any day. The aluminum fascia trim what do you call that particular style of trim with the line running in the middle? It provides a nice visual as opposed to just a flat aluminum fascia trim. Thank you for providing such details.
Thanks! There’s really no technical name for it that I know of… I’m using what’s called a break buddy. The rib helps reduce “oil canning”.
As a roofer the j channel should be gap to help drain any snow melt
I agree the look of the galvanized flashing is horrible
They shoulda used a grey or black step flashing so you could do a 1in gap
Would look great on the roof and siding sides
I agree a gap is better. On a lot of commercial jobs they use bigger color matched step flashing and have the siding maybe 4”-6” off the roof. I like that system better cause there’s no penetrations through the wall for those 4”. I haven’t experienced any problems yet putting it against the roof, and a lot of the houses I sided are going on 20 years. So I’m pretty sure it has been okay. :)
Pretty work, boss man,what model of senco staplers do you use?
Thanks! I’m using a Senco SLS20 that shoots a 3/8” crown 18 gauge staple… this staple actually doesn’t meet the minimum requirements for vinyl siding (I only use it on the trim, but I still can’t really recommend using it, although it is quite convenient).
Did you pre bend all of the facia, or is it already bent to that profile. I think it helps in stopping the aluminum from looking wavy.
Hi Mike, I try to figure out and bend all the fascia metal at the start of every job… this works well for new construction as things are more consistent. The shadow bend helps stop bubbling and I also use a brake buddy to put the smaller profile in the field of the bigger flat part, that helps as well. More videos to come!
The last nail was scary. Like the staples should get..
Hard to see too
do those staples hold just as good as nails or better? what size staples for the j&f channel? siding etc?
I’ve seen some literature that says vinyl siding gets higher wind ratings with 16 gauge staples. I probably couldn’t find it anymore though. Staples should be at least electro galvanized and a minimum of 16 gauge and penetrate into a nailable substrate by at least 1 1/4” according to the VSI. But be sure to check your local codes!
I subscribed. Sad to see your gonna give up siding your very skilled. I’ve heard this from a few siders who have done prob 100 houses as well which scares me. One of them told me he’s just gonna start hanging drywall cuz atleast it’s inside and you only need to move around a 3 footer🤣 what’s your thoughts on a siding business. I’ve been installing not even a year but I know a decent amount cuz my dad taught me who’s sided 25 years. But he hand nails🤣 I’m just buying up equipment and hopefully a trailer for now but it seems like a lucrative business and if I can eventually get it to the point where I just have crews doing jobs for me it will prob produce a lot of money. I would obviously have to run my own crew for a few years to save a fuck ton of money. So yeah main question. What’s your thoughts on starting a siding business from nothing in 2023. Should I just quit now🤣
Thanks for subscribing! I do have more footage that I haven’t posted yet. In the North East there was really high demand for siding crews last year. There’s good money in it, as with most the trades, for me the heights is starting to get to me (I didn’t use to mind at all). It might be a young man’s game to be honest. Or if I had a articulated boom man lift, that would be huge, but I’m not sure how well they do on sloping residential sites.
If you do top notch work and get paid well for it, develop a strong reputation, have a good sales pitch where you teach homeowners the importance of proper flashing techniques, I believe a business could be quite profitable over years of hard work… you get out what you put in. There’s even money in it if you just slap the siding on the wall which is sadly what most crews do.
Good luck! - Brandon
I was considering LP smart side but after watching your video Ill use vinyl. Its all in the details isn't? Can you please list some of the item specifics used on this job?
If you’re talking about tools, I have a video where I reviewed and explained my tools. If you’re wondering about the trim pieces, here’s a blank stock of what I use to figure most jobs:
Outside Corner Post 20’x6”
-and/or-
Outside Corner Post 10’x4”
Inside Corner Post 10’
Starter Strip
J-Channel (color matched)
J-Channel (white)
Vinyl Siding per sq (100 sq ft)
Undersill (color matched)
Dryer Vents (color matched)
Soffit Vents (white)
F-Channel (white)
Solid Soffit (white)
Vented Soffit (white)
24”x50’ white coil stock
1 1/4” white stainless nails
1 1/2” loose roofing nails (30lb)
Beaded solid soffit
1”x10” PVC
5/4”x6” PVC w/J-pocket
1”x8” PVC
6”x20’ lineals
Lineal plastic starter
1 3/4”-2” white trim head stainless screws
-Or-
Hidden fastener system with white plugs for PVC
Forgive me for my ignorance. I'm a competent DIYer and I'm putting up vinyl siding for the first time. Everything I saw said I should use a hammer with aluminum nails not driven all the way in so the siding doesn't look warped. I found this video because I'm putting it on a second story where I have to start it on an angle on top of the first story roof (although my project is on the peak of the roof so I'm hoping I will be able to meet them up properly when they join over the peak). But I'm definitely interested in using a stapler instead. Can you explain this to me? I have an electric stapler but I'm sure it's adequate for this
Hi TJenks, per VSI (vinyl siding institute) guidelines vinyl siding should be fastened with corrosion-resistant: nails, staples or screws that meet the manufacturer’s and local building code requirements. (Some climates require stainless fasteners if they are closer to the coast and also - different situations require different fastening solutions.)
See page 12 of VSI guidelines and talk to your local building inspector. If you use staples - assure that the staple can penetrate the substrate at least 1 1/4”, is a minimum of a 16 gauge staple and that the siding can still move freely. Good luck with your project! 👍🏼 ps. I do have a video where I demonstrate connecting siding over a roof.
www.vinylsiding.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/06/2020-VSI-Installation-Manual.pdf
@@sidingschool oh so you can use screws as well? I just searched on Google and I can't find a recommended screw. Can you point me in the right direction as to what type a screw to buy that Home Depot or Lowes would have? Because I would prefer not have to buy a new staple gun. I really appreciate your quick response! Thank you
Screw Fasteners
Screw fasteners can be used if the screws do not restrict the normal expansion and contraction movement of the vinyl siding panel on the wall. Screws must be centered in the slot with approximately 1/32" (0.8mm) space between the screw head and the vinyl. Screws must be able to penetrate no less than 1 1/4" (32mm) into framing or furring and should be:
• Size #8, truss head or pan head
• With steel studs, the use of self-tapping sheet metal screws must be used.
@@sidingschool thank you so much man! I'm certain you saved me money with this knowledge and time because of the video you linked in your comment. I really appreciate it!
No problem! Good luck!
staples in bottom of wall paper right at turnup of roof flashing ?????
This is an industry standard installation, the only difference is that according to the VSI or Vinyl Siding Institute, J-Channel should be left at least 1/2” from the roof to avoid possible heat transfer from the shingles to the J-Channel (causing the J to distort). I believe I made mention that manufacturers also may require a gap under the J-Channel, but I don’t like the way it looks… either way the J-Channel goes close to the roof and has to be fastened in some manner, so nails or staples will always be close to or on the turn up flashing. It is unavoidable. In my 12 years of experience this has never caused a problem. And to my knowledge it is up to all the applicable codes, do you have any literature that says otherwise? I would be happy to have a look at it.
How much would you charge for something like this
Hi, in this part of the country if I was going out just to do this section I’d probably charge around $400. Prices vary quite a bit depending on where the work is being done, and whether it’s new or old construction, re-sides always take longer to do.
not sure if I'm seeing correctly but the tins don't look like they are 4".
The cutting edge of my snips is 3”, if that is what you are referring to?
He was talking about step tins I believe....
That makes sense, I believe the step flashing is 5”x7” or whatever the industry standard is.