If sleeve adjustments sound scary to you, the first thing to do is to learn what makes up a sleeve. Download the FREE Sleeve Terminology Guide here: www.grdmethod.com/sleeve-adjustments-demystified-get-the-perfect-fit
I'm so happy this was the best analysis you've seen. You have a lot of experience in sewing! It's great to connect with you and I'm happy to hear that you're buying the book.
Thanks Geena your video was very informative and educational it made me understand well why some garments I made did not fit around the arm and it gave me an insight into future solutions
Wonderful video and equally your book is wonderful too-clear understandable explanations of all fitting problems. I need a FBA, sloping narrow shoulder adjustment, and narrow back adjustment. Not gorget flat bottom and prominent tummy.I am working steadily through your book to meet my needs. Thank you so much.xx
That's fantastic that you know the common adjustments you need to make. I'm so glad you're using the book to help you achieve the perfect fit you desire!
I have been trying for years to perfect my shoulder, xback, and sleeves with the forward shoulder adjustment, wide bicep and wide back. I recently happened upon a french pattern and after I made the muslin I was surprised it fit better than many of my adjusted patterns. One thing I noticed about it was that the front armhole was cut very far into the garment. I have been afterwards trying to do the same on my older patterns but don't seem to find much discussion about this particular change. I do find that when I put my arms up and forward, the front seam cuts into my body. If I make the xback wider, the cutting does not change. What might I be missing?
This is very common to have a much more scooped front armhole in customized patterns. I see this over and over again in drafting moulages with custom measurements. It may be that you don't have enough sleeve cap on the width of the sleeve. It's important to consider the total circumference of the across front/back/sleeve cap widths in the garment you really liked. Measure that garment for those points and compare it to your patterns or garments that aren't as good and analyze the differences. As well, make sure you pay attention to any stretch in the fabric. Even a small mechanical stretch 1-5% can lead to a lower ease amount than a fabric that is rigid with no stretch. If your fabrics are different, you need to account for different ease amounts. Getting the curvature in the sleeve to work with the curvature of the armhole is critical. I also recommend checking this as shown on page 140 in The Fitting Book.
The actual sleeve does not have the cuttings. It's just the paper pattern that does. You can learn more about the pattern corrections in The Fitting Book on pages 151-156 and it also shows how to cut or pin your garments in fitting.
This seems to be exactly opposite to my experience. I have a 1940s dress pattern with a very tall sleeve height and I can move my arms easily without the bodice moving. Is this due to the armhole then?
Yes, that's fantastic that you have a tall sleeve height and can move your arms easily without moving the bodice. This means that you have a great balance between the armhole position, sleeve, and ease amounts. It also means that the armhole is not too low since the bodice doesn't move. It's always a puzzle finding that great combination to gain the comfort and a nice appearance.
I had a blouse pattern where the sleeves felt too tight around the elbow. Not know exactly what to do I added width from underarm down to hem on both sides. So at underarm I added zero and increased going down to hem a little bit. So the cap and width did not change. Was this an option that is ok or should I have slashed the pattern and opened it up? Thank you. I’m still excited about the book you were working on about how to design a garment, where we helped give it a title. I haven’t seen it out yet. Thank you.
That is a great method to adjust the elbow the way you did. When you don't want to adjust the bicep area, there is no need to slash it open. The difficulty comes when the bicep needs to get bigger or smaller. If you only add to the underarm seam when the bicep needs the adjustment, it often doesn't feel right to the wearer because it changes the way the sleeve fits into the armhole. But for an elbow, you are good to go with that method! I'm still working on the final video edits for The Fashion Design Book. The videos are way more work than I anticipated because somehow I always go above and beyond my initial concepts :)
If sleeve adjustments sound scary to you, the first thing to do is to learn what makes up a sleeve. Download the FREE Sleeve Terminology Guide here: www.grdmethod.com/sleeve-adjustments-demystified-get-the-perfect-fit
That was the best analysis I've ever seen in my 50 years of sewing and studying pattern making. I'll be purchasing your book
I'm so happy this was the best analysis you've seen. You have a lot of experience in sewing! It's great to connect with you and I'm happy to hear that you're buying the book.
Same!
I HAVE YOUR FITTING GUIDE. BUT. SEEING A DEMONSTRATION VIDEO IS BETTER. THANKS.
I'm happy the video helped you so much :)
Good information - have used your book many times(love the QR codes).
I'm glad you found the information helpful. It's great to hear you've been using the book! Thanks for your nice feedback.
Thank you!
I love your clear explanations and can‘t wait for the next Onlinecourse for patternmaking!
I love your excitement for the next online course!
Great explanation! Thank you!
So glad it was helpful!
This is SO clear and helpful! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! ❤
I'm so happy to hear it's clear and helpful! Thanks for your nice feedback :)
Great info, I had a garnment with sleeves issue, I understand better where the problem is now.
Tank you!
I'm so happy this helped you understand where the problem was for the sleeve fitting issue you had!
Thanks Geena your video was very informative and educational it made me understand well why some garments I made did not fit around the arm and it gave me an insight into future solutions
I'm so glad this was informative and educational. It sounds like this really clicked for you :)
Thank you so helpful , I have purchased your fitting book waiting for the delivery .
I'm so happy you ordered the book! I hope it helps you a lot in your fitting journey :)
Always such great explanations and easy to understand! Thank you!
I'm so glad the explanations are easy to understand :)
Wonderful video and equally your book is wonderful too-clear understandable explanations of all fitting problems. I need a FBA, sloping narrow shoulder adjustment, and narrow back adjustment. Not gorget flat bottom and prominent tummy.I am working steadily through your book to meet my needs. Thank you so much.xx
That's fantastic that you know the common adjustments you need to make. I'm so glad you're using the book to help you achieve the perfect fit you desire!
Very good explaination! 👌
Glad it was helpful!
I have been trying for years to perfect my shoulder, xback, and sleeves with the forward shoulder adjustment, wide bicep and wide back. I recently happened upon a french pattern and after I made the muslin I was surprised it fit better than many of my adjusted patterns. One thing I noticed about it was that the front armhole was cut very far into the garment. I have been afterwards trying to do the same on my older patterns but don't seem to find much discussion about this particular change. I do find that when I put my arms up and forward, the front seam cuts into my body. If I make the xback wider, the cutting does not change. What might I be missing?
This is very common to have a much more scooped front armhole in customized patterns. I see this over and over again in drafting moulages with custom measurements.
It may be that you don't have enough sleeve cap on the width of the sleeve. It's important to consider the total circumference of the across front/back/sleeve cap widths in the garment you really liked. Measure that garment for those points and compare it to your patterns or garments that aren't as good and analyze the differences. As well, make sure you pay attention to any stretch in the fabric. Even a small mechanical stretch 1-5% can lead to a lower ease amount than a fabric that is rigid with no stretch. If your fabrics are different, you need to account for different ease amounts. Getting the curvature in the sleeve to work with the curvature of the armhole is critical. I also recommend checking this as shown on page 140 in The Fitting Book.
How will the sleeve look with all these cuttings ??
The actual sleeve does not have the cuttings. It's just the paper pattern that does. You can learn more about the pattern corrections in The Fitting Book on pages 151-156 and it also shows how to cut or pin your garments in fitting.
This seems to be exactly opposite to my experience. I have a 1940s dress pattern with a very tall sleeve height and I can move my arms easily without the bodice moving. Is this due to the armhole then?
Yes, that's fantastic that you have a tall sleeve height and can move your arms easily without moving the bodice. This means that you have a great balance between the armhole position, sleeve, and ease amounts. It also means that the armhole is not too low since the bodice doesn't move. It's always a puzzle finding that great combination to gain the comfort and a nice appearance.
I had a blouse pattern where the sleeves felt too tight around the elbow. Not know exactly what to do I added width from underarm down to hem on both sides. So at underarm I added zero and increased going down to hem a little bit. So the cap and width did not change. Was this an option that is ok or should I have slashed the pattern and opened it up? Thank you. I’m still excited about the book you were working on about how to design a garment, where we helped give it a title. I haven’t seen it out yet. Thank you.
That is a great method to adjust the elbow the way you did. When you don't want to adjust the bicep area, there is no need to slash it open. The difficulty comes when the bicep needs to get bigger or smaller. If you only add to the underarm seam when the bicep needs the adjustment, it often doesn't feel right to the wearer because it changes the way the sleeve fits into the armhole. But for an elbow, you are good to go with that method! I'm still working on the final video edits for The Fashion Design Book. The videos are way more work than I anticipated because somehow I always go above and beyond my initial concepts :)
Thank you! And you really do go above and beyond and I thank you. @@GinaRenee