Nice video. On 2010 Audi A4 (FWD) both mounts can be removed at same time by lifting engine at oil pan. Only one mount on drivers side had electrical connector. We left the passenger side mount unplugged. Very straightforward procedure. Happy to consult if anyone has any questions. Engine Bar was not necessary but may be extra measure of safety. 2 jack stands and large 3 ton jack with rubber pad. Took 2.5 hours and 1/2 hr of that was altering the mount plug which was slightly different than that on the wiring harness.
Hi I have vibration at idle and slight knocking on/off power and some gear changes. My car has extended Audi warranty, however the dealer has said no errors are showing when checking mounts. I suspect they are still bad, but can’t issue a warranty claim unless the computer says so. Did your mounts flag up any errors or did they need to be removed before a bad mount was confirmed. My car is the B8.5 SQ5
Great video sir! Glad you took the time to show everyone that you can do it yourself and not have to shell out over $1-2k to get it done at the dealership.
you all probably dont care but does anyone know a way to log back into an instagram account?? I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Dominic Bronson Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Good stuff man! Iike how you take the time and show exactly each part being removed as opposed the othe channels just have their cameras stationary without much detail.
WOW! You totally sold me on that jack. I just ordered it from Amazon. Thank you sir! I hate jacking the car up from one spot and placing the jack elsewhere. Thank you!
Appreciate your work! One year ago I bought the same car as station wagon. Since then I fixed the PCV-Valve, sparcplugs+coils, injectors, carbonbuildup, doorhandle(keyless-switch), wheelbearing, doorlock driverside, lower control-arm, rearwiper-vent, controlarmbushings and turbobypass-vent. I bought the motormounts 3 month ago, but the whole time other issues had to be fixed first : ) So your video is a nice reminder to unbox them : ) #sometimesitdrivesmecrazybutIjustlovemyaudi Greetings from germany Auf wiedersehen!
The hook is to support the cable that runs underneath. Pro tip: DO NOT DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. Support with floor jack and remove both 18mm’s at the same time. Then you can raise motor higher without putting stress on either side. You’ll have more room making it much easier to r&r. Also on driver side first reach down behind the mount and take off that hook. It’s easy to do and makes it way easier to remove mounting plate and put back. I think it’s a 10mm nut.
Thanks to your video I was able to complete this project on my 2014 A6 2.0t, which was a nearly identical process to yours. I don’t think I could have done it without your video, so thank you!!! I’ll be using your link to purchase the ryobi driver in a week or so.
Theres so much more room in here than i have in my A4 B8 3.0TDI engine bay. :D Got right side mount changed pretty easy (was totally ripped apart and made changing from 1 --> 2 mid corner impossible) Left side seems to be almost no room anywhere to swap that mount, unless you remove whole left driveshaft assembly out of way.
great video, very helpful. I love that the bracket bolts on yours just came off with ease, I had to drill out 3 of the 4 bolts because they were stripped, rusted, and round on the outside instead of hex so that you could get socket on it when the inside triple square strips. Terrible design and weak tin bracket. Glad I replaced them as the driver side was torn in half. Replaced the terrible stripped bolts and welded nut on the back end of the bracket with proper 11MM socket bolts with locking nuts on the back. No room to access the back of the bracket either. This is my first and last Audi lol. Sticking with Ford. thanks for the video help!
@@CarsandCoding yes i replaced the pass side mount in January and oddly enough the old pass mount didnt have a wire connector so I couldnt plug the replacement into anything. I had to drill out 1 of those 2 bolts on that side. I just spent 6+ hours drilling out both bolts on the drivers side mount, replaced them with motor mount bolts from a 1977 Mustang II ;) and put a lock nut on the back and its perfect. Drivers mount was torn completely off and even the metal casing was breaking apart. engine and drive train no longer bangs and hesitates when stepping on gas. Service light on dash disappeared. I agree they all have thier issues, I have a 66 Mustang GT Fastback, doing a resto on a 77 Cobra II and I drive a 2016 GT Convertible so Im used to working on the domestics and they seem easier to access bolts etc. Good luck with the Maverick, they look really nice. Thanks again for posting this, it was very helpful. If I could only figure out the speaker issues on this Audi!
Do you know if 2.0tdi engine is very similar process? Debating doing it myself too. Also I might buy an impact wrench, as I can imagine my bolts are rusty.
Muchas gracias por subir este video y compartir tus conocimientos con la gente, que Dios te bendiga y te de mucha salud y bienestar , me sirvió mucho puesto que yo tengo un caso igual y no tenia idea de como hacerlo pero al ver como lo hiciste ya me quedo claro.
Thanks for the Video,Ive just done the RHS on my A4 3.0tdi. its a difficult job as the alternator is right in the way. with it loosened off it was just able to squeeze out. Its alot tighter in my car!
Thank you so much. I was nervous about doing it myself because of German car's reputation on needing special tools But it actually seems pretty easy. I'm just guessing there might be less space in die 2.0tdi engine bay... Here's hoping for the best!
Nice how to, and I bought the jack, which works great with one design problem, the lip that hold the handle under the bolt is not big enough, so if I tight the bolt that holds it I can't twist the handle to lock/unlock the valve, if I don't when I try to pull the handle comes off. Very annoying. I'm going to put a bed of weld around it and grind to just about clearing, but I should not be fixing it. One might say talk with the manufacturer, but reading through the experiences and comments, I won't bother.
The clearest explanation of how to change the engine mounting. I have a question. I haven’t got the platform for raising the engine from above. Do you thing is enough with the jack from below? Thanks a lot . GREETINGS FROM SPAIN
Hi thanks for this video I have vibration at idle and slight knocking on/off power and some gear changes. My car has extended Audi warranty, however the dealer has said no errors are showing when checking mounts. I suspect they are still bad, but can’t issue a warranty claim unless the computer says so. Did your mounts flag up any errors or did they need to be removed before a bad mount was confirmed. My car is the B8.5 SQ5.
There were no errors on the mounts I had. I expect that the mounts would have to be completely ruined for a code to be thrown. Shop should be able to see they are bad by visual inspection. Good luck fighting it!
When you said there’s shaking at idle especially when the AC is off, I knew my motor mounts are also bad. I wonder why having the AC on smooths out the idle
I have the A4 B8 with the 3.2fsi engine. I was able to swap the passenger side mount, but the bolts to the bracket on the driver side are completely covered. Even with those out, I don’t think I can wiggle the bracket and mount out.
Hey was wondering when you say left and right which one is passenger side and which one is driver side ? Just wondering if you mean left and right from the front of the vehicle?
About 2 hours for the first side and 30 mins for second side once you know what you are doing. If you have done it before it would take 2 hours total just because of the time to jack the car up, get tools out, put together the support beam, and clean up. 30 mins per side actual wrenching and wiggling the mounts in and out.
So I had someone do my mounts, I’m now stranded because the bolt that goes thru the mount to the mount bracket is literally hanging off right now. Could this be a result of insufficient torquing?
@@CarsandCoding bolt seems fine, I tried to take it off cause it is literally all the way unscrewed, I can’t twist it up and take it out because the frame won’t allow me (not enough space to pull it off from the top), it appears to be it’s normal size
@@EJR20 have to jack the engine up a little to get the bolt in probably. You can use a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan with a floor jack. Really though I would take it back to who installed it and have them fix. Get the job done that you paid for.
Hey Cory I just did the left on a A5 with the V6. You need to remove the oil cooler from block and let it dangle or tie it out of way with a zip tie (will be connected via coolant lines) so it is a bit messier with oil dripping. Then you need to do basically the same with the AC compressor, don't remove lines but 3 bolts need removing from block. Very tight squeeze then to get out mountand bracket. The right side looks easier though. I also dropped the sway bar but did it as was figuring it out dunno if you actually need to.
@@CarsandCoding so I got the same brand back then, and had them installed correctly second time around, since these other yahoos did a lousy job, but I still get cabin vibration especially in R and D. I also have a new trans mount, what else could be the culprit?
There's also a different mount for A4 with CVT Transmission (up to 2012 model) - 8R0198381C Unfortunately couldn't find any parts from lemforder. Best aftermarket ones I could find that wont blow ur wallet were Febi Bilstein (LHS: 39157, RHS: 43707)
Please Help me out! Those bolts you took out at 9:27 with the ratchet the 8mm triple square, where can I find them? All four of mine rusted and stripped and I can’t find a part number or anything!
Use this link or go to your local audi dealer to get the bolts. www.audipartsstore.com/v-2010-audi-a4-quattro--base--2-0l-l4-gas/engine--engine-and-trans-mounting
How about the symptoms for this audi snub mount? A4 mine going up and down but its really bad is that snub mount? And if i accelerate it thumped into gear
Sounds like you need to replace them. I had vibration when stopped that I thought was a misfire. The vibration was the motor mounts were bad. Also what really helps is transmission mount insert. See this video: ua-cam.com/video/kKA0twkuES4/v-deo.html
It does not throw a code unless its completely broken. Rattling over bumps in the road is a suspension problem. Most likely upper control arms and front struts. See my other video for that.
Are lemforders the OEM or aftermarket parts? I am looking at lemforder engine mounts that only cost 45 bucks each, the genuine OEM mounts are 330 each... big price difference? I am thinking the lemforders wont last as long. Any input appreciated.
I ended up going with 034Motorsport street mounts. They do not have fluid, but are not supposed to increase vibration much. Planning to install them today.
Cars and Coding my car gives out slight vibrations (especially on a cold start) when I shift into D or R gears, when it warms up they almost disappear (basically become very minimum) but not quite gone, I know when this car is totally alright it doesn’t give out any vibrations. Do you suggest it being the engine mounts or the transmission mounts or something else.
If the mount would break completely then it would throw a code. Mine were not leaking or broken all the way through but they were causing a harsh vibration at idle.
This engine mounts are avalaible only in 2.0 generations because the 3.0 tdi both engine mounts come with cable , please specify well and do not confuse the customers , also you didnt mention the one that comes with the gearbox . So its 3 in total . Learn more and help people thank you .
@@CarsandCoding tdi an tsi it depnds so again , dont generalize that engine mounts are only one hidraulic and one with cable because it depends with the code of motor , 3.2 and 3.0s come both with both cables not only for one ☝️
I wish the part hadn't been cut out of you installing the passenger side motor mount. I've been struggling over an hour just getting the damn new motor mount to slide in between the engine block and subframe. I've literally given up and am taking a break.
It was not any different than the passenger side except for the hook bracket for the power steering hose. Try jacking up the engine further, it will go in. You can do it! :)
@@CarsandCoding Yeah my engine support bar was getting pretty tight. I said fuck it and put the jack under the oil pan with a rubber puck and jacked the engine up 3 - 4 inches. I think its because the engine brackets are to the right of where all the weight is (to the left of the brackets are the engine block, head, pistons, and exhaust workings) and the engine likes to lean to the left with all that weight. Still thank you for the video!
I think it's more simple with a jack below the engine rather than installing the cross member and less expensive because not everyone has the cross member and to equip it is expensive and what are the electrical plugs on the brackets for?
You can do it with the jack underneath. I just was being fancy with the engine brace. The electrical plugs monitor the fluid in the mount and if the mount rubber completely breaks then the fluid comes out and triggers a fault code in the computer. Mine did not completely break so i did not have a fault. Some models have the plugs and some do not. If you do not need the plugs you can cut them off.
Hey, i don’t know how to express the problem, but i got Audi A4 B8 2008 2.0tdi CAGA. Had problem with one engines cushioun. I replaced it, and after 4 days maybe got an airbag error, didn’t watch the error with a pc found out in google that it’s front airbag’s foult. Didn’t gave a damn about it and after some time got a ticking sound after i press gas pedal very quickly(just a very little, and gently) and release it. Car didn’t lost any power, but at cold start sometimes it won’t start from first time (even in nice weather) sometimes even when it’s not a cold start it would still do the same. A few times it did over rew it self in gear. By saying over rew i mean - when i’m in 4-5 gear and press gas pedal it just rews and gives 0 power. If anyone ynderstands what i’m trying to say and might know where to look for the soliution, please leave a comment, thanks. And gearbox shifter vibrating a little, even when you drive. But just a little bit.
The mounts were less than $200 for the set. I think that is cheap enough already. I would be interested in seeing a video with your fix though! Always willing to learn new things.
Nice video. On 2010 Audi A4 (FWD) both mounts can be removed at same time by lifting engine at oil pan. Only one mount on drivers side had electrical connector. We left the passenger side mount unplugged. Very straightforward procedure. Happy to consult if anyone has any questions. Engine Bar was not necessary but may be extra measure of safety. 2 jack stands and large 3 ton jack with rubber pad. Took 2.5 hours and 1/2 hr of that was altering the mount plug which was slightly different than that on the wiring harness.
Hi I have vibration at idle and slight knocking on/off power and some gear changes.
My car has extended Audi warranty, however the dealer has said no errors are showing when checking mounts.
I suspect they are still bad, but can’t issue a warranty claim unless the computer says so. Did your mounts flag up any errors or did they need to be removed before a bad mount was confirmed. My car is the B8.5 SQ5
What size is the triple square bit for the 2 smaller bolts that hold the mounting bracket onto the chassis?
I suggest checking the transmission mounts after completing the replacement of the engine mounts. Good video.
Great video sir! Glad you took the time to show everyone that you can do it yourself and not have to shell out over $1-2k to get it done at the dealership.
you all probably dont care but does anyone know a way to log back into an instagram account??
I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Titan Barrett Instablaster ;)
@Dominic Bronson Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Good stuff man! Iike how you take the time and show exactly each part being removed as opposed the othe channels just have their cameras stationary without much detail.
WOW! You totally sold me on that jack. I just ordered it from Amazon. Thank you sir! I hate jacking the car up from one spot and placing the jack elsewhere. Thank you!
Totally worth it. Its my favorite tool in the garage.
I am totally ordering one of these! Thanks!
⁰⁰
GREAT😂😂😂😂😂
Appreciate your work!
One year ago I bought the same car as station wagon. Since then I fixed the PCV-Valve, sparcplugs+coils, injectors, carbonbuildup, doorhandle(keyless-switch), wheelbearing, doorlock driverside, lower control-arm, rearwiper-vent, controlarmbushings and turbobypass-vent. I bought the motormounts 3 month ago, but the whole time other issues had to be fixed first : )
So your video is a nice reminder to unbox them : )
#sometimesitdrivesmecrazybutIjustlovemyaudi
Greetings from germany
Auf wiedersehen!
The hook is to support the cable that runs underneath. Pro tip: DO NOT DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME. Support with floor jack and remove both 18mm’s at the same time. Then you can raise motor higher without putting stress on either side. You’ll have more room making it much easier to r&r. Also on driver side first reach down behind the mount and take off that hook. It’s easy to do and makes it way easier to remove mounting plate and put back. I think it’s a 10mm nut.
Thanks to your video I was able to complete this project on my 2014 A6 2.0t, which was a nearly identical process to yours. I don’t think I could have done it without your video, so thank you!!! I’ll be using your link to purchase the ryobi driver in a week or so.
Thanks for the video
I had a bad vibration in the car and that was the problem
And your video made it easy for me
Thanks again
Theres so much more room in here than i have in my A4 B8 3.0TDI engine bay. :D
Got right side mount changed pretty easy (was totally ripped apart and made changing from 1 --> 2 mid corner impossible)
Left side seems to be almost no room anywhere to swap that mount, unless you remove whole left driveshaft assembly out of way.
great video, very helpful. I love that the bracket bolts on yours just came off with ease, I had to drill out 3 of the 4 bolts because they were stripped, rusted, and round on the outside instead of hex so that you could get socket on it when the inside triple square strips. Terrible design and weak tin bracket. Glad I replaced them as the driver side was torn in half. Replaced the terrible stripped bolts and welded nut on the back end of the bracket with proper 11MM socket bolts with locking nuts on the back. No room to access the back of the bracket either. This is my first and last Audi lol. Sticking with Ford. thanks for the video help!
Dang bro, you are the man! You got through it! Not sure fords are any better… we just bought a 2024 Maverick, time will tell…
@@CarsandCoding yes i replaced the pass side mount in January and oddly enough the old pass mount didnt have a wire connector so I couldnt plug the replacement into anything. I had to drill out 1 of those 2 bolts on that side. I just spent 6+ hours drilling out both bolts on the drivers side mount, replaced them with motor mount bolts from a 1977 Mustang II ;) and put a lock nut on the back and its perfect. Drivers mount was torn completely off and even the metal casing was breaking apart. engine and drive train no longer bangs and hesitates when stepping on gas. Service light on dash disappeared. I agree they all have thier issues, I have a 66 Mustang GT Fastback, doing a resto on a 77 Cobra II and I drive a 2016 GT Convertible so Im used to working on the domestics and they seem easier to access bolts etc. Good luck with the Maverick, they look really nice. Thanks again for posting this, it was very helpful. If I could only figure out the speaker issues on this Audi!
Excellent video. I just did the whole thing in about 4.5 hours. The engine hoist was critical. It was actually easier than I thought. Thank you!
Do you know if 2.0tdi engine is very similar process? Debating doing it myself too. Also I might buy an impact wrench, as I can imagine my bolts are rusty.
@@RoxusRemo наверное поздно пишу)) но в 2.0 тди всё точно так же
@@ОлегМилош-ы7ь Thanks!
Thanks a lot . Today i made it on the pasenger side. 4 hours 😂. But its done .greetings from Romania
Muchas gracias por subir este video y compartir tus conocimientos con la gente, que Dios te bendiga y te de mucha salud y bienestar , me sirvió mucho puesto que yo tengo un caso igual y no tenia idea de como hacerlo pero al ver como lo hiciste ya me quedo claro.
Thanks for the Video,Ive just done the RHS on my A4 3.0tdi. its a difficult job as the alternator is right in the way. with it loosened off it was just able to squeeze out. Its alot tighter in my car!
The best video I ever seen saved my life !
Thank you so much.
I was nervous about doing it myself because of German car's reputation on needing special tools
But it actually seems pretty easy.
I'm just guessing there might be less space in die 2.0tdi engine bay...
Here's hoping for the best!
the hook on the driverside (17:00) holds the hydraulic-line of the powersteering in place
Yeah I figured that out as I put it in. Good call out!
Awesome vid, do you know if this is the same for the 2.0 tdi engine for the b8 also?
I think the movement of the motor is because you have not changed the gearbox mount you have obly changed the motor ones. Thanks a lo for the video 😉
One of the best so far i have seen
Grear Turorial, now I am looking forward to fix it by my own 👍
Hi
Are there only 2 motor mount for this engine? left and right?
My A4 2009 2.7TDI
Nice how to, and I bought the jack, which works great with one design problem, the lip that hold the handle under the bolt is not big enough, so if I tight the bolt that holds it I can't twist the handle to lock/unlock the valve, if I don't when I try to pull the handle comes off. Very annoying. I'm going to put a bed of weld around it and grind to just about clearing, but I should not be fixing it. One might say talk with the manufacturer, but reading through the experiences and comments, I won't bother.
Interesting, I havent had a problem with the handle, but I can see how it could happen. Thanks for watching!
Thank you buddy great explanation I'll be doing this real soon. Wonder if you have any idea how to replace EGT sensor four it's a nightmare to get to
Great video, I'm going to change mine out tomorrow. How did they hold, did you have to change them again?
No issues, I'm at 103k miles on the car now
Just found your channel, great info, just what i needed, keep up the good work!
The clearest explanation of how to change the engine mounting. I have a question. I haven’t got the platform for raising the engine from above. Do you thing is enough with the jack from below? Thanks a lot . GREETINGS FROM SPAIN
Just use the jack and a piece of wood. Make sure it’s on the engine NOT on any of the pans. And use a big jack like he has.
Hi thanks for this video I have vibration at idle and slight knocking on/off power and some gear changes.
My car has extended Audi warranty, however the dealer has said no errors are showing when checking mounts.
I suspect they are still bad, but can’t issue a warranty claim unless the computer says so. Did your mounts flag up any errors or did they need to be removed before a bad mount was confirmed. My car is the B8.5 SQ5.
There were no errors on the mounts I had. I expect that the mounts would have to be completely ruined for a code to be thrown. Shop should be able to see they are bad by visual inspection. Good luck fighting it!
@@CarsandCoding thanks for the reply, really appreciate it.
Richard
Would love to see the next one for the intercooler , i am also doing the upgrade, but for now i will order the mounts and also replace them thnx 👍🏻💪🏻
Intercooler video is live now! ua-cam.com/video/Fbr7FwwidnM/v-deo.html
Good tutorial video ,,,
Always love watching and learning from you,, thank you,,!
When you said there’s shaking at idle especially when the AC is off, I knew my motor mounts are also bad. I wonder why having the AC on smooths out the idle
Saludos desde monterrey, nuevo león
Thanks brother
Man those things are deep in there. Nice video!
merci
I have the A4 B8 with the 3.2fsi engine. I was able to swap the passenger side mount, but the bolts to the bracket on the driver side are completely covered. Even with those out, I don’t think I can wiggle the bracket and mount out.
your video was spot on thanks please send more
Awesome! I will try to make some more… I have a couple ideas. Thanks for the comment!!
Great work my friend.
Nice how to video. Thank you
That hook is to direct the power steering line away from something else in the engine bay. I have the VAG shop manual access at work.
hi.. did u feel some rezonance before changed monuts?
Yes the idle was rough before I changed the mounts
@@CarsandCoding i feel rezonance and vibration it about driving when is +- 1300rpm
thanks.. Nice VDO..
Would you do it again or would you have a mechanic do it?
thanks. How long does it take to do this job?
About 2 hours I would say.
How are the Lemfoerder mounts holding up? Any vibrations?
All is well, no issues yet! :)
Thanks for great video. Very helpful
Cheers mate really helpful
SO Helpful!! Thanks!!!
We got error p1586. Permanent short to +. Does this cause the engine to stall/ not start?
Silly question maybe
Hey was wondering when you say left and right which one is passenger side and which one is driver side ? Just wondering if you mean left and right from the front of the vehicle?
Left is driver right is passenger. When you are sitting in the car, your left and right.
@@CarsandCoding thank you for the fast reply you are awesome !
How long did it take to replace them? Both of mine are leaking. Thinking of going with the 034Motorsport street mounts.
Hi, the supports are similar on a Audi A5 V6 3.2 Quatrro. Do know if the supports in this model are sensor. Thansk.
Not sure, you can look it up on a parts site like rockauto.com or fcpeuro.com
I have the A4 3.2 and had no room to get the mount on the driver side. I think this is because the motor is larger in the frame.
What city are you in?
Do I really need that engine support bar or can I do it as well with a jack underneath the engine?
You can do it with just the floor jack and a block of wood. I would have no problem trying it that way.
Audi SQ5 2015... can bad ruined engine mount can cause gearbox hard and weird shifting? Or make like a safe mode on gear when turn into a street???
It will not cause safe mode. No.
Shifting 2 or more shifts down are with a hard nock... and when I turn into a street it is like one second no gas and after one second goes back
How long do u anticipate the job to take?
About 2 hours for the first side and 30 mins for second side once you know what you are doing. If you have done it before it would take 2 hours total just because of the time to jack the car up, get tools out, put together the support beam, and clean up. 30 mins per side actual wrenching and wiggling the mounts in and out.
Awesome thanks for letting me know.
I love it Man!
So I had someone do my mounts, I’m now stranded because the bolt that goes thru the mount to the mount bracket is literally hanging off right now. Could this be a result of insufficient torquing?
Or maybe the bolt broke off from being over tightened. Too loose or too tight will do it. Should be fixable
@@CarsandCoding bolt seems fine, I tried to take it off cause it is literally all the way unscrewed, I can’t twist it up and take it out because the frame won’t allow me (not enough space to pull it off from the top), it appears to be it’s normal size
@@EJR20 have to jack the engine up a little to get the bolt in probably. You can use a piece of 2x4 under the oil pan with a floor jack. Really though I would take it back to who installed it and have them fix. Get the job done that you paid for.
@@CarsandCoding yes I’m having them fix it tomorrow for sure!
What size do I need to remove the bolts on the stamped bracket/plate for the motor mount?
It is a triple square, I’m not sure the size but get a triple square set and you will have the ones you need. amzn.to/3Q0HOEv
Caha engine 125 Kw ?
Is the procedure the same for the 3.0 tfsi v6 engine? The components look the same.
Hey Cory I just did the left on a A5 with the V6. You need to remove the oil cooler from block and let it dangle or tie it out of way with a zip tie (will be connected via coolant lines) so it is a bit messier with oil dripping. Then you need to do basically the same with the AC compressor, don't remove lines but 3 bolts need removing from block. Very tight squeeze then to get out mountand bracket. The right side looks easier though. I also dropped the sway bar but did it as was figuring it out dunno if you actually need to.
How are they holding up after over a year of use? I’m about to change mine to these same brand.
No problems. This is the oem original brand.
@@CarsandCoding so I got the same brand back then, and had them installed correctly second time around, since these other yahoos did a lousy job, but I still get cabin vibration especially in R and D. I also have a new trans mount, what else could be the culprit?
flywheel@@EJR20
Hi. Left and right mount is same part no?
No they are different part numbers. They are probably the same though! I could see no difference.
There's also a different mount for A4 with CVT Transmission (up to 2012 model) - 8R0198381C
Unfortunately couldn't find any parts from lemforder. Best aftermarket ones I could find that wont blow ur wallet were Febi Bilstein (LHS: 39157, RHS: 43707)
it's the same, to my knowledge. Electrically controlled hydraulic mount.
Please Help me out! Those bolts you took out at 9:27 with the ratchet the 8mm triple square, where can I find them? All four of mine rusted and stripped and I can’t find a part number or anything!
www.audipartsstore.com/v-2010-audi-a4-quattro--base--2-0l-l4-gas/engine--engine-and-trans-mounting
Use this link or go to your local audi dealer to get the bolts. www.audipartsstore.com/v-2010-audi-a4-quattro--base--2-0l-l4-gas/engine--engine-and-trans-mounting
WHAT IS THE SIZE 😫😫😫
How about the symptoms for this audi snub mount? A4 mine going up and down but its really bad is that snub mount? And if i accelerate it thumped into gear
Sounds like you need to replace them. I had vibration when stopped that I thought was a misfire. The vibration was the motor mounts were bad. Also what really helps is transmission mount insert. See this video: ua-cam.com/video/kKA0twkuES4/v-deo.html
Great video. liked and subscribed.
👍
was the car rattling over small bumps in the road and does this throw up a code on a code reader?
It does not throw a code unless its completely broken. Rattling over bumps in the road is a suspension problem. Most likely upper control arms and front struts. See my other video for that.
@@CarsandCoding I scanned it. Left hydro electric engine mount open circuit. Will get it on the ramp tomorrow. Cheers
Are lemforders the OEM or aftermarket parts? I am looking at lemforder engine mounts that only cost 45 bucks each, the genuine OEM mounts are 330 each... big price difference? I am thinking the lemforders wont last as long. Any input appreciated.
Lemforder is OEM with the Audi rings ground off the casting. Go with fcpeuro.com if you want lifetime warranty
@@CarsandCoding awesome much appreciated! The upcharge for 'genuine' Audi parts is insane.
I ended up going with 034Motorsport street mounts. They do not have fluid, but are not supposed to increase vibration much. Planning to install them today.
@@ThomasGillot Awesome! Let us know how it works out, i have heard they are good
@@ThomasGillot Do you have a link where I can purchase these?
alguem sabe se sao iguais tirando o sensor
Good video man
Can you do the transmission mount?
Same car
You can see me take the transmission mount off the car in the transmission fluid change video ua-cam.com/video/IY_VRHlfJuQ/v-deo.html
Cars and Coding can you help me out with a time stamp?
Cars and Coding nvm, found it.
Cars and Coding my car gives out slight vibrations (especially on a cold start) when I shift into D or R gears, when it warms up they almost disappear (basically become very minimum) but not quite gone, I know when this car is totally alright it doesn’t give out any vibrations. Do you suggest it being the engine mounts or the transmission mounts or something else.
Master👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
good job !!!!!
whats the sensor for?
If the mount would break completely then it would throw a code. Mine were not leaking or broken all the way through but they were causing a harsh vibration at idle.
hy,how many NM top screw 19 or 90 NM? tnx
90 for the top one
@@CarsandCoding so,the lower two 55 NM,and the upper 90 NM? thx
@@mariopejic9312 yes
que barilla de aceite tiene colocada esa q5
This engine mounts are avalaible only in 2.0 generations because the 3.0 tdi both engine mounts come with cable , please specify well and do not confuse the customers , also you didnt mention the one that comes with the gearbox . So its 3 in total .
Learn more and help people thank you .
Sorry, in USA we typically only have gasoline engines, so I don’t know anything about Diesel
@@CarsandCoding tdi an tsi it depnds so again , dont generalize that engine mounts are only one hidraulic and one with cable because it depends with the code of motor , 3.2 and 3.0s come both with both cables not only for one ☝️
I wish the part hadn't been cut out of you installing the passenger side motor mount. I've been struggling over an hour just getting the damn new motor mount to slide in between the engine block and subframe. I've literally given up and am taking a break.
It was not any different than the passenger side except for the hook bracket for the power steering hose. Try jacking up the engine further, it will go in. You can do it! :)
@@CarsandCoding Yeah my engine support bar was getting pretty tight. I said fuck it and put the jack under the oil pan with a rubber puck and jacked the engine up 3 - 4 inches. I think its because the engine brackets are to the right of where all the weight is (to the left of the brackets are the engine block, head, pistons, and exhaust workings) and the engine likes to lean to the left with all that weight.
Still thank you for the video!
@@mydimeisup5103 yes you got it! A little persuasion with the floor jack gets it in there.
I think it's more simple with a jack below the engine rather than installing the cross member and less expensive because not everyone has the cross member and to equip it is expensive
and what are the electrical plugs on the brackets for?
You can do it with the jack underneath. I just was being fancy with the engine brace. The electrical plugs monitor the fluid in the mount and if the mount rubber completely breaks then the fluid comes out and triggers a fault code in the computer. Mine did not completely break so i did not have a fault. Some models have the plugs and some do not. If you do not need the plugs you can cut them off.
Wat size at 9:25
E12
WTF DOES E12 MEAN????
Hey, i don’t know how to express the problem, but i got Audi A4 B8 2008 2.0tdi CAGA. Had problem with one engines cushioun. I replaced it, and after 4 days maybe got an airbag error, didn’t watch the error with a pc found out in google that it’s front airbag’s foult. Didn’t gave a damn about it and after some time got a ticking sound after i press gas pedal very quickly(just a very little, and gently) and release it. Car didn’t lost any power, but at cold start sometimes it won’t start from first time (even in nice weather) sometimes even when it’s not a cold start it would still do the same. A few times it did over rew it self in gear. By saying over rew i mean - when i’m in 4-5 gear and press gas pedal it just rews and gives 0 power. If anyone ynderstands what i’m trying to say and might know where to look for the soliution, please leave a comment, thanks. And gearbox shifter vibrating a little, even when you drive. But just a little bit.
Trans mount ? Video ? I have trans mount original after 300.000km and i have problem of movement the motor . The motor mount (2x) have 30.000 km
I show trans mount insert here: ua-cam.com/video/kKA0twkuES4/v-deo.html
Also I remove the entire transmission mount in this video: ua-cam.com/video/IY_VRHlfJuQ/v-deo.html
@@CarsandCoding thank youuuu 👍
OMG when I did that I thought my motor was going to jump out.
Yeah mine were not broken. When the mounts are broken all the way then the motor really wants to jump out! :)
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Boyzzz Audi dealer charges $2100.00 for my Audi Q5
Ouch!
2 ton its too light for mecaniac minum 3 ton or 4 its good ..
B8.5 is 2013 too 17
You can just fill the old mount with polyurethane for 10 bucks.
The mounts were less than $200 for the set. I think that is cheap enough already. I would be interested in seeing a video with your fix though! Always willing to learn new things.
Whats that
Make a video