Hi Tim, my son and I just finished the front end rebuild on our 99 SR5 - wheel bearings, seals, uca & lca bushings, tie rod ends, links, etc. All of your related videos made life much easier. Thanks!
Wish I woulda watched all these when I did my 4wd conversion. I used the big press at my old job. Smashed both the new bearings by not properly supporting em. This was years ago now. Replacing one CV tonight cus OEM boot is blown. Going to replace with a Autozone CV for this weekend then reboot OEM and replace again.
Hi Tim Instead of using the slide hammer to pull off the inner seal I found if you just use a sharp wood chisel with the bevel side down you can work it off without leaving any marks on it. Just be careful to not hit the chisel in further once you touch metal. Once you have a small gap you can work the rest of it off with a small pry bar. It's the same idea of how you would remove the dust cap off the hub. If your seal is not badly rusted or has any marks in the rubber parts you can usually clean them up and reuse them.
NIce video, very detailed. BTW when I do front bearings using my press, I tend to just leave it in place. Install the bearing, install your snap ring, PRESS your seals. It saves a bit of time but I understand taking videos adds to the complexity.
Tim, are the (wheel bearing) on a auto locking hub Tacoma same as manual locking hub? ( they share the same wheel bearing) I'm in the process of doing mine.
Hi Tim, I have an 01 with ABS, what would I need to do this mod? Would I need the axles as well from the donor manual hub Tacoma? So all I really need is the manual hubs and the axles from the donor taco? What year tacos had the manual hubs?
It works just like it did before. The only difference is you have to lock the hubs to be in 4wd. If you shift the transfer case to 4wd, but the hubs aren't locked, the CV axles will spin, but will not give power to the front wheels because the CV shaft will just be free spinning inside the hub.
Hi Tim, I recently rebuilt a set of manual hubs to put on my Tacoma. I made the mistake of not buying new hub needle bearings and I believe one of them has failed. I am not sure if you have done this, but if you can help I would appreciate it. In order to replace the hub needle bearings I would need to: 1) Remove spindle. 2) Remove the notched nut. 3) Using a slide hammer (?) to remove the brass crush ring 4) Remove/replace the needle bearing (it should come out on its own or with the slide hammer?) If you can let me know if this sounds right I would appreciate it very much!
I actually have never done a replacement of the brass bushings and needle bearing on a set of manual hubs. I have the parts for it, but haven't had the need for it yet. I don't believe you need a puller to remove the brass bushings. I'm pretty sure you can use a long punch, insert it on one side and catch the lip of the bushing on the opposing side and start knocking it out with blows from a hammer working your way around to drive it out evenly. As for the needle bearing removal, I don't know if it's a press fit or not. ORS (Off Road Solutions) sells the bushings and needle bearings and I would bet they know the steps to replacing the needle bearings. I'd give them a call. www.offroadsolutions.com/
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for the quick response. I will give them a ring for more information. When I do the job I will try to remember to comment back with how it went.
I would suggest he try again after he heats up the outside of the knuckle really well with a butane torch. He doesn't need it to be glowing hot. He just needs to heat it up evenly around the whole circumference and then immediately try to press it out. I'd have the bearing with a little pressure on it while heating up the knuckle so it's ready to press out as soon as he turns off the torch.
Hi Tim, what if I wasn't able to torque my wheel bearing nut to the full 205 ft/lbs? Right around 150 ft/lbs on both hubs there was no one heavy enough with me to hold the tool down without it "rocking out". Will this drastically decrease the life of my bearing?
It is a cool mod. I like it more for the fact I could drive out of the backcountry if I broke a CV axle and the terrain allowed me to get out in 2WD. This way you could replace the CV axle at a more convenient location instead of being forced to fix it on the trail like you'd have to do with A.D.D. hubs.
Timmy The Toolman This is very TRUE but I haven't have this issues appear to my truck before on trail, hard Terrain, water crossing, & some rock climbing. For my axles & etc being the original From day one with the truck I haven't replace or fix this type of issues be4. Knock on Woods but this is one reason I went with the hub swap and I'm pretty sure that you know that our IFS isn't the best type for heavy off road, however it can be done just like the SAS.
I think most people won't end up breaking a CV axle while 4wheeling, but if you do break one, it sure would be nice to have the option to fix it elsewhere other than on the trail.
So with the ADD making the cv’s turn all the time does that mean the front diff gear set is constantly turning as well? The reason I ask is because my girlfriends 97 t4r passenger side differential seal is leaking and I don’t want it to run too low on fluid and destroy the gears before I fix it.
This is a good question and I'm not 100% sure if the ring and pinion are spinning with the CVs. I assumed they weren't but I'm going to ask this question on T4R.org and get back to you with the answers I got.
I did some more research and the ring and pinion gears do not turn in 2wd with an A.D.D. system. The CV axles are turning but they are turning a spider gear on each side and not the main ring and pinion gears. If the ring and pinion gears were turning, the front driveshaft would also have to be turning and I know for a fact the front driveshaft does not turn in 2wd.
I appears the ring and pinion will turn a little at faster speeds. Check out this thread I started on T4R.org: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/260388-question-about-d-d-system.html
Great video as always! My only gripe is that you really shouldn't have greased the threads for the hub locknut as that torque sets the clamping force or pre-load on the bearing. Lubricated threads can nearly double the clamping force vs unlubricated threads using the same amount of tightening torque. It should be alright since they are very well made bearings (my original koyo wheel bearings on my Tacoma have almost 400,000mi on them), but I would expect reduced life due to an increase in operating temperature. Edit: I forgot to mention that these wheel bearings, like most other wheel bearings, are double angular contact ball bearings similar to two tapered roller bearings faced opposite of one another so the pre-load is important for maximum bearing life.
Nearly double the force due to lubricated threads? Hmmm. I did a quick search and I didn't see a 100% increase in the torque with greased threads but I did see something about fasteners with anti-sieze on them would require 25% less torque. This is interesting. So, I have a question. Are all torque values in a Factory Service Manual "Dry Values"? If that's the case, you would have to painstakingly make sure every fastener you are using is clean and dry. How many mechanics would take the time to do this? Here's a few interesting reads: bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/33782-Bolts-torque-and-grease www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php
New and dry threads have a K-factor or friction coefficient of around 0.21, "dirty" threads around 0.27 or more, anti-seized threads about 0.16+-0.03, and well lubricated threads 0.12 or less. Tightening torque is directly related to clamping force via Clamping Force = Torque / (K x Bolt Diameter). Keeping all other variables the same except nearly halving the friction coefficient or K-factor with a good high pressure lube will therefore nearly double the clamping force when comparing to new dry threads (K~0.11 for high pressure lubed threads vs K~0.21 for new and dry). However, there is always some leeway that engineers have designed into the tightening torque of most fasteners because K can vary due to a number of factors like corrosion and machined tolerances. For most fasteners, clamping force is not that critical, but for things like head bolts and differential pinion nuts where there is bearing pre-load, it is important for the longevity of the part. The service manual gives torque specs for dry and relatively clean threads unless it is otherwise noted such as for the head bolts. No mechanic has time to even torque most fasteners let alone clean them. Like I said, clamping force is not that critical for a vast majority of the fasteners on a car and even where it is critical there is usually quite a bit of leeway designed into a stated torque value to account for the variance in K. In your case, lubricating the threads at the very worst could have increased the bearing pre-load by 90%. But the bearings are designed for very high dynamic and static loads, usually more than double what you would normally put on them so that they last a long time, so I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
I am happy to share. There are a lot of opinions and hearsay on the inter webs. If really want to learn more about this topic to please read up on it in an engineering textbook, don't take my word for it 😁. Here is a good general overview of fastener design by Fastenal here: www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Bolted%20Joint%20Design.pdf Keep up the great videos Tim!
Tim and Sean, Im considering a Manual hub swap using mostly OEM parts on my 1999 Limited 4runner before my trip to Alaska. The trip is 8500 miles round trip. Question is Timmy, do you like the swap you did on your truck? Thanks, Russ
I love the swap. My CV axles receive way less wear because they're only turning when I'm in 4wd and I lock the hubs. I also like being able to use the benefits of 4Lo when climbing steep paved mountain roads. Using 4Lo enables me to get the benefit of a lower automatic transmission temp going up steep roads without having to worry about damaging my front differential or CV axles. I have heard that the manual hub CV axles aren't as strong as the ADD axles, but I've done a fair amount of 4wheeling in my rig and haven't broken a CV axle yet. Another thing is if you need to pull a CV axle with manual hubs, it's a little more work to get it out because of the extra parts. It's not hard, but it's more time consuming.
Yes, the bearing needs to be pressed out. That would be very expensive. You'd have to buy the steering knuckle and the hub assembly. That would be big money.
Hi Tim, thank you again for your fantastic videos. They are always helpful and educational. I'm about to press the hub back through the bearing, and have a question about the tone ring and bearing spacer: Is there any reason you couldn't press those in at the same time? My idea for the set up from top to bottom; press plate from sleeve kit, press sleeve, hub, bearing, tone ring, bearing spacer, a press sleeve that fits the bearing spacer diameter, then the bottom plate. The ABS ring and spacer would brace the whole face of the bearing so as not to damage the inner race. Do you see any reason this wouldn't work?
I understand what you're saying but I think it would be safer to get the hub into the bearing first making sure you properly support the inner race. Then just simply slide the ABS tone ring over the hub shaft. Finally, press the bearing spacer onto the shaft or maybe just tap it on with a hammer. The bearing spacer isn't a tight fit. It should go on fairly easily. If the bearing spacer was a tight press fit, then I think your method might be a good way to go. I remember grabbing onto the spacer and it just spun on the shaft off the hub so I know it should go on fairly easy. If you try your method let me know how it worked. If you tried my method, report back and let me know the technique you used to get the bearing spacer onto the shaft. Thanks.
@@TimmyTheToolman Alright, after reading this and looking at it some more I realized there was a lip that the abs tone ring sits on. I figured that it could be a bad idea to try and press everything on at once since the tone ring might hit that lip and then I wouldn't know if the bearing was seated properly, so I went ahead and skipped that idea. I did try it with the hammer and a properly sized press sleeve to set against the bearing spacer, but after some good whacks (I tend to not like whaling on things with a hammer) I decided to press it instead. With the properly sized press sleeve it went on very easily, and even made a definitive popping sound once it was seated properly. Didn't take much force at all. A note to anyone doing this: the tone ring and the bearing spacer will be able to spin and even move up and down just a bit, even once it is seated properly. Thanks for the brainstorm, Tim!
@@maximusbkk9232 Thanks for getting back to me and sharing this. Good to know using the hammer to get the bearing spacer in place probably isn't the right method. Since we don't have a dedicated video for a wheel bearing replacement, I'm gong to do this job for a guy very soon and film it. Lots of people ask for this video and I've referred dozens to our Manual Hub Swap videos. It's time for me to just make a video specific to replacing a wheel bearing. Good job getting this job done on your own. Most people take their knuckles to a shop to get the press work done and that's a big mistake. Shops screw up this job all the time. I've read about it countless times on Toyota forums. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Sorry to be off topic but does someone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account? I was dumb lost the login password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
Hey Tim, I'm wanting to do the manual locking hubs on my 99 4Runner. If I get used one's like in the video, do you recommend rebuilding them first? And if I can't find a used setup, is there a brand that you would recommend for buying brand new setup?
It depends on your situation. As far as I know, the Tacoma models that had manual hubs didn't come with ABS. If your rig doesn't have ABS, you could swap the spindles over as is and hope the bearings last for a long time. If you do have ABS, and you want to retain it, you'll have to swap over the manual hubs to your spindles. When you press out the hubs, the bearings get destroyed, so you have to replace them. ORS (Off Road Solutions) sells a manual hub kit. I don't know of any other seller who does. www.offroadsolutions.com/products/ors-manual-hub-conversion-kit/
@@TimmyTheToolman I have ABS and I would probably keep it. Is it possible to delete the ABS? I also have a factory rear diff lock, and using the rear diff lock turns off the ABS.
@erniekropf665 I've never done research on an ABS delete, but by simply removing the sensors at each wheel would render it useless. You'd however end up with an ABS dash light though.
Hey timmy, you guys are awesome because you make me freak out on things I need and start spending money. So I know it never ends with upgrades, as you most certainly know with your mall crawler, but I've just about dialed my 97 4runner in to where I'm good to go and not get stuck out in the middle of nowhere. So here it is, I feel I need to do this swap via my mechanic rather than hope I don't brake a CV or carry a spare and try to fix on the trail. I'm a little clueless to where I start looking for the parts to do this. Can you give some tips, thanks.
Hey John, if you're into serious mall crawling like I am, you definitely need this mod. Those mall parking lot speed bumps can be vicious. Start looking on Craigslist and Ebay for people selling the manual hub knuckles and CVs. I found a guy in my area who was parting out a 1st Gen Tacoma and picked up the used parts for $400. You could also look on Tacoma World in the classified section because people sell all kinds of stuff and part out trucks. Finally, you can get on the PickNPull website and save a search criteria for the earlier 1st Gen Tacomas, 1995 - 2000. PickNPull will notify you via email when a vehicle fitting your search criteria pops up within the search area distance you have specified. If you're lucky, you will find a wrecked one with manual hubs and you can grab the knuckles and CVs before somebody else nabs them. Good luck with the search.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks. I assume i need this mod because we do go on the trial's sometimes alone but don't do real crazy crawling. I do understand that with my 3 inch lift it wears the CV and a simple climb could break it. Hopefully i can get this mod done for about or less than 1,000$ but worth it if it breaks and not get stranded. Oh yeah i changed the upstream air fuel ratio all by myself. Im not very mechanically inclined. Thanks.
Hey Austin, you don't actually NEED this mod. It's just nice to have the option to fix the CV somewhere else other than the trail if you can get out in 2WD. If you break a CV out on the trails with A.D.D.knuckles, you'll just have to swap it out there or cut the shaft in the middle so you drive out. Replacing a CV isn't really that hard with the right tools.
@@TimmyTheToolman my biggest fear is not being able to get off trial if it breaks. So if i dont do this mod then as you say cut the axle and drive off? Maybe a video on what to do if you break on the trial. Plus i kinda want to sit with the cool kids at lunch. I wonder if this a good resale mod?
For an ADD knuckle, the outer CV shaft tightened into the hub preloads the wheel bearing, so you can't just remove the CV shaft and drive out. You need to either replace the CV axle or cut the shaft out of the damaged CV to keep the outer shaft connected to the knuckle to preload the bearing. The easiest solution is to just carry a spare axle and the tools necessary to swap it out on the trail. I would say this would be a good resale mod for a buyer who knows the benefits of having manual hubs. Even with doing the work myself, I still spent $800 on this mod. You would definitely be in the cool kids club with this mod.
Hey Timmy, did you apply the boot stretch mod to the Tacoma CVs as well? I’m really considering the manual hub swap because I’ve been going through inner CV axle boots like crazy. I applied the extended boot mod to one of my CVs and now a little grease is seeping past the extended portion of the boot clamp. Yes, the clamp is on very tight. Thanks!
No, I didn't do the boot stretch mod on my CVs. The lift on the front of my rig is probably only 2.5 inches and I have a 1 inch diff drop. The ribs of my inner boot aren't touching. The manual hub swap is a consideration. Other than the fact my CVs are only turning when I want them too, is the fact I can use 4Lo going up very steep paved mountain roads to keep my trans temp down and I don't have to worry about any binding of my front diff and axles. There's also the benefit that you're not forced to replace an axle out on the trail if you're able to drive out in 2wd. Have you tried using a screw-down style clamp on that inner boot connection? You might be able to get a tighter clamp onto the shaft
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the info, Timmy. Those are all great reasons to go with manual hubs. I used a crimp style clamp from amazon, similar to the clamps provided with the OEM reboot kit, just a bit smaller. I’m about to apply the boot mod to the other side soon, as it has torn within about 5k miles. I’m running a diff drop with a Dobinsons 2.5” IMS lift. Also have steel bumpers front/rear. I think the lift came out closer to 3”. The inner boot ribs definitely rub on each other.
@@gummybear916 You're welcome. You could also try extended silicone boots. Offroad Solutions sells them. I think if you do a screw-down style clamp, you'll get a tighter bond with the axle. You'll really appreciate the manual hub mod if you do it.
I am rehabbing an 02 Sport Edition, and almost everything I need to do has one of your awesome videos associated with it. However I'm going to replace the front wheel bearings and rebuild the knuckles in a stock configuration, and this video is as close as it gets in your catalog. Do you plan to have a video for that task in the near future?
Hey Mike, that's great you are finding our channel helpful. This video and the Manual Hub Swap Part 1 is basically all you need to be successful with doing the wheel bearings on your rig. There are other videos that could help you with the reassembly and that's either our CV Axle Reboot Video or our Upper Balljoint Replacement video. Here's some links: ua-cam.com/video/vcCT4UgFUTw/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/-sY2azyLBuI/v-deo.html All the information is there in the videos. If you have the right tools, you can do this job no problem. Good luck and Happy Wrenching!
Yessir, this is my second 3rd gen, and I'd replaced ALL the front suspension components and CV's on the first one (sometime in 2016), so I've been down that road before. Having said that, I have watched your CV axle video as a refresher / way to get new tips. When I did the project in 2016 I took the easy route and bought refurbished knuckles from a seller on eBay (all new bits and pieces pressed in), but this time I have the tools to rebuild them myself, so that's my plan. I already watched your UBJ video, and that seems straightforward, but the video I'd love to see would be one for pressing the hub and bearing out of the knuckle, and then pressing the new ones back in :). I do have some links to a couple t4r.org threads saved, and they have good pics and advice, but your videos are just the BEST! Since I'm not really a rookie after that first 4runner I'm sure I'll figure it out, but maybe just a heads up for a gap that I saw on the interweb for this particular video tutorial. You don't have one, and I couldn't find a good one from anyone else either.
@@michaelheit9321 Mike, the Manual Hub Swap videos Part 1 and Part 2 video shows all the press work you need with the exception of getting the bearing spacer in place which I assume is very easy to do. You could probably just tap it in place with a hammer and a press sleeve. We show all the pressing of the hub out, the bearing out and both back in and all the associated seals and retaining snap ring replaced. I know they are long videos but it's all there. Trust me. Watch the videos and you'll have everything you need.
Oh man, now I feel foolish, my bad. I watched a good part of the beginning of part 1, but not the entire thing, and didn't even start part 2. I'll watch the entire thing and get 'er done. My apologies man, thanks again! Sometimes I get ADHD and will jump between topics (I'm killin' many many projects on this truck). I probably started streaming another one of your videos and didn't bother to follow up with this one...
No, there isn't. Manual hubs are different. With A.D.D. axles, the nut tightened to spec properly pre-loads the wheel bearing. For rigs with manual hubs, the lock nut tightened with the special pin tool properly pre-loads the bearing.
Timmy, There is some confusion related to the CV axle needed. You listed somewhere (whether it was on this video or the 1st one) the P/N needed for the CV. I looked that part number up and it did not say anything about A.D.D. There is another P/N that states "W/ A.D.D". So I am confused as to which one to purchase because I have heard they are different. If you can let me know I would appreciate it. Thanks
The one that says w/A.D.D. is for the non-manual hubs. A.D.D. stands for automatic differential disconnect. The part number for the CV axles we list in Part 1 is correct - #434300401084 parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=434300401084&make=Toyota&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214329
@@TimmyTheToolman I guess they arent as expensive as I thought then because the A.D.D ones are like $400 each. The other P/N you just listed arent so bad. Let me look again at the OEM site I am using.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the info. Do you happen to know the spline count on the outer shaft splines? Trying to look into the manual hubs from Warn. They are calling for 26 spline count.
@@Heffe112 Yeah, I saw the same thing for the Tacoma CV axles. The A.D.D. ones are super expensive and the manual hub ones are about half the price. What's weird is the 1st Gen Tacoma A.D.D. axles are pretty much the same as the 3rd Gen 4runner axles and the 3rd Gen 4runner axles are way more affordable. Doesn't make sense why they are so expensive.
Like Minh said, I have a 30,000 miles service video. Here's a link:ua-cam.com/video/a81i1Cayf_I/v-deo.html I change my engine oil and filter every 5,000 miles. I use to do it every 3,000 but I'm running full synthetic now so I upped it to every 5k I do a drain and refill of my transmission fluid every 10k. This exchanges around 4 quarts of the 12 quart system. At the same time I replace an in-line magnetic filter I renew my coolant every 30k I renew the front diff gear oil and transfer case gear oil every 30k I renew the rear diff gear oil very 10k I grease the driveshaft zerk fittings every other oil change I replace the spark plugs every 15k I replace the air filter when it looks dirty Rotate tires every 5k I guess that's enough. If you have any questions, just ask.
Hey I'm hitting ready to do this. Do know what the press sleeve kit you have is called. I need to get one and the one you recommended in the description is no longer for sale. Thanks
@@ericbrown6802 Here's a link to press sleeve kit I found on Ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/26Pc-Universal-Press-and-Pull-Sleeve-Kit-Bush-Bearing-Removal-Installation-Set/163230894198?hash=item260151c876:g:q54AAOSwaRRcalbw Your most affordable option for 1" press plates is visit a fab shop in your area and see if they can cut you a couple. 3" wide plates that are around 14" long would be sufficient. If you don't have a fab shop locally, you can do a search on Ebay or Amazon for press plates. Here's a link to a set of plates I bought off Amazon: amzn.to/2tb83il The other plates I got from a fab shop and it was much more affordable.
Hey Timmy I have a off topic question. I have a 04 Tacoma 2.7l and it makes a ticking noise, nothing too loud only when the engine warms up use to be only in drive at idle but now it’s doing it in park too but not as loud. Could this be a flex plate problem. Or something different? Sometimes when I turn my Ac down or off it kinda determines how loud it is. Any help will be appreciated! Keep up the great videos!
It could be the flex plate but it also could be just the engine making some noise. The valve train can be noisy on some engines. My 2000 4runner ticks pretty good when it's cold but quiets down when it warms up. A cracked flex plate has a pretty unique sound to it. It's like a ticking/squeaking kind of sound. If you get yourself a mechanic's stethoscope, you could possibly narrow down the origin of the noise. You can video the noise, upload it and send me a link, and I can listen to it and give you my opinion. I'm currently traveling so I might not be able to watch it right way. It will depend where I'm at and whether I have an internet connection.
Timmy The Toolman ua-cam.com/video/Nq9zoiisLuA/v-deo.html Haven’t got the chance to record the sound but this is the same exact sound only happens when truck is warmed up and idling not in park or neutral only drive and reverse.
Check the video description of Part 1. All the tools and parts used for this job are listed there. Also check the comment we pinned for other helpful information.
I'm pretty sure the hilux has the same knuckles as our US version 4runners but I could be wrong. If they are the same, you could do it. You would either have to source a set of manual hub knuckles and CV axles from a 1st Gen Tacoma or you buy a kit that sells you all the parts. Do people drive Tacomas in Australia? With sourcing the parts used, I spent $800 on this project. $400 for the used Tacoma knuckles and CV axles and then another $400 for new bearings, seals, and a CV reboot kit. If you had to buy everything new, this could be a very expensive modification.
So, just to be clear, you're using the 4Runner knuckles, with Tacoma manual hubs, bearings, seals, etc. and Tacoma manual hub CV's? Do you have part numbers for all these, or are they in your previous manual hub swap videos? Sorry if you actually mentioned that in the video. Keep up the awesome work!!
Well, you're sort of correct. Yes, I'm using the manual hub spindles, manual hub mechanisms, and manual CV axles from a Tacoma. The bearings, seals, snap rings are interchangeable between the Tacoma and 4runner knuckles. They are the same part numbers. The lock nuts are specific to the Tacoma manual hubs. And yes, I mentioned in the video that all the part numbers are in the first video along with a ton of other helpful info. You definitely want to check out the other video before attempting this project.
I don't see the manual hub spindle or manual CV part numbers in the first video. They are 43502-35160 (spindle) and 434300-401084 (CV axle) in case you wanted to add it somewhere. Also, didn't mention this before: YOU ROCK!!! What you are doing with your videos is setting the standard for car repair videos on UA-cam!! Keep it the amazing work!! Cheers
Thanks for providing the spindle part numbers. We're assuming people will get the spindles from the Tacoma knuckles they find for sale. Buying them new is quite expensive. We're glad you have such a high opinion of what we're doing with our channel. Sean and I are trying hard to provide good content for people. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it very much! Happy Wrenching!
Lol, updated my comment just as you were replying. Added the CV axle part number to that, which is unusually long for some reason. Got these from Camelback Toyota, but might check one other place as well to be sure. If you don't mind, I'll add these to the T4R.org thread as well.
Yeah, add those part numbers to the thread. I added the spindle part number to the original manual hub swap video description. Something isn't right with that CV axle part number. I'm not coming up with anything with a search.
I use to do side jobs for people but it became too much. I now focus mainly on making new videos for our channel to help out anyone with an internet connection. Sorry I couldn't help you out but it's necessary for me to say no to avoid getting burnt out on turning wrenches. Good luck!
wow the prices are way higher now on these 4 years later. Only one I'm finding with a dust shield inctact is 1500!!! And that's not even including the CV!!
Interesting. Where are you looking? For reference, I have bought 2 complete manual locking hub sets used off eBay with the CV’s included for under $600 shipped. The backing plate was mangled and destroyed but I had intentions of rebuilding the hubs and spindles with new bearings and baking plates so that didn’t matter to me. Keep looking and I’m sure you will find it much cheaper than $1500. - Sean
@@rushthezeppelin Yep, they know people want them and they are going to gouge people. I bought my complete set which also included the front differential for $400. It sucks people are asking ridiculous money for used parts. For that kind of money, you should buy brand new components.
Anyone know if you buy the Aisin hubs brand new if they come with the gaskets? I’m talking about the hub cover gasket: 43531-60010 and the hub body gasket: 43422-60060. I’m just wondering if I will still need to get these separately even with the new-in-box Aisin FHT 019. Thanks! #sickmods
@@TimmyTheToolman OK gotcha! Thanks, TTT! I appreciate your quick response on this, and I appreciate all your vids, man! I have an ‘03 Tacoma and it wouldn’t have half the #sickmods it has now without all the help you have provided with your content. Keep up the great work!
@@benbanose You're welcome Dan. I check in with the channel pretty frequently and try to answer people's questions fairly quickly. The only time I can't is when I'm on a trip in the mountains out of internet range. Sean takes over for me when that happens but sometimes he's on the same trip and then we don't get back to people for a few days or longer. On a recent 4wheeling trip in Death Valley, one of our camp sites in the middle of nowhere had coverage. So, I sat in my camp chair and answered questions and acknowledged comments while sipping a beer and enjoying the view from our kickass campsite in Echo Canyon. Our channel isn't so big that we get inundated with too many questions and comments than we could feasibly respond to. It is pretty labor intensive to do this, but I think it's a nice thing we can do for people. Some people are in the middle of a job and a quick answer is what they need. Also, most people that use our videos don't comment and i think it's a nice touch to acknowledge those that did by giving them a response. Anyway, I'm happy to hear our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching and Sic Mods!
@@TimmyTheToolman heck yeah man that is awesome! I haven’t been yet, but Death Valley is on my list for sure. I’m currently planning out my full front-end overhaul on the Tacoma so that I have no worries making a trip out to remote locations like that without a critical part failing on me. This video, and Part 1, of course, inspired me to just go for it on the manual hubs for the same reasons you stated in the vid; less wear on the CV’s in general, and the ability to unlock the hubs in the off chance that I snap one out on a trail. (and also so that I look cooler than the rest of the trucks out there navigating speed bumps at the mall lol!) Since I’m already going to be doing the work of pulling the knuckles and changing out the bearings and seals, might as well do it all then. Again, I can’t give enough thanks and appreciation to you, Sean, and everyone who has contributed to your channel. You guys really go the extra mile by recommending the right tools for the job, and all the right parts as well. Cheers! 🍻
@@benbanose Yeah Dan, you got to get out there for sure. But, I wouldn't recommend solo trips out into that area. Always go with at least one other rig. While we were out there, some couple got two flat tires in their Subaru and then decided to hike into this area called Mormon Point and pretty much got lost. They found the couple on some ledge. The guy died and the gal survived. They obviously made some stupid decisions but parts of Death Valley are so remote that it's going to be hard to get help. For added safety and communication, I carry a Garmin inReach and pay for a service that allows me to send an SOS for help if I need it. It also gives you the ability to communicate with people via email. At every camp, my girlfriend knew exactly where I was because the message I sent her shows our location. It's pretty cool. It uses satellites to send and receive messages. If you're in California, maybe you can join us on our next trip out there. I'd like to make it a yearly trip in the early Spring, probably sometime in March. Some people say the Manual Hub setup compromises durability because the CVs shafts are a bit thinner and not as strong. Yeah, whatever. I've wheeled a decent amount with mine and haven't broken a CV. But, I don't spin my wheels with reckless abandon when I'm in a tough section. If you do that and then your tire grabs, things have a tendency to break. Thanks for being a fan of our channel and appreciating the level we go to to give people what they need to be successful. You're very welcome and good luck with all the work. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman I’ve actually got full skid plates and a rear bumper with tire carrier coming in in about a week, a regeared electric front locking differential, reboot CVs, auxiliary fuel tank, ARB twin compressor, quick tire air up/down system.... blah blah blah. Whatever you want to showcase, I can set aside. I’m going to be doing these mods then hitting the trails on August 12 for a couple of days of camping with some friends. Bring your rig if you’ve got time.
What is a 3 outlet washer nozzle mod? Is that for the front windshield washer? 2 isn't enough, I reckon? I think Manual Hubs are cooler. More style points while mall crawling.
We're not really mechanics for hire. We have helped people out with repairs and mods in the past for things we've already made videos of but we like to put most of our time into making new videos because that's what benefits the most people.
@@TimmyTheToolman there is a threaded good ring on the back of the wheel hub. This is a 2x4 spindle. Do I need to take that ring off before I press the wheel hub free? Could that actually be what's hanging it up?
@@cameronp5728 Yes, you need to take that ring off. Your 2x4 set-up is similar to a 4x4 manual hub set-up being that it uses a threaded on nut on the end of the spindle.
Then that is why it's not coming off lol oh well good thing this dspindle is a junk one lol I'm just using it as a trial before I take my actual ones off. Got the 4 pin socket coming in today.
Hi Tim, my son and I just finished the front end rebuild on our 99 SR5 - wheel bearings, seals, uca & lca bushings, tie rod ends, links, etc. All of your related videos made life much easier. Thanks!
That's great to hear. Thanks for coming back and sharing this with us. It's great you're doing some wrenching with your son.
We T4Rs are spoiled from all of your great videos. Thanks again.
Thanks Mike.
Wish I woulda watched all these when I did my 4wd conversion.
I used the big press at my old job. Smashed both the new bearings by not properly supporting em. This was years ago now.
Replacing one CV tonight cus OEM boot is blown. Going to replace with a Autozone CV for this weekend then reboot OEM and replace again.
Francois L Sicmods Mr. Frenchy! Thanks for stopping by our channel and leaving a comment. Hope all goes well with your CV Re-booting
Hi Tim
Instead of using the slide hammer to pull off the inner seal I found if you just use a sharp wood chisel with the bevel side down you can work it off without leaving any marks on it. Just be careful to not hit the chisel in further once you touch metal. Once you have a small gap you can work the rest of it off with a small pry bar. It's the same idea of how you would remove the dust cap off the hub. If your seal is not badly rusted or has any marks in the rubber parts you can usually clean them up and reuse them.
Yeah, there's quite often more ways than one to get something done. Thanks for sharing your technique.
NIce video, very detailed. BTW when I do front bearings using my press, I tend to just leave it in place. Install the bearing, install your snap ring, PRESS your seals. It saves a bit of time but I understand taking videos adds to the complexity.
Yeah, I can see that being a time saver. Glad you like the video and we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Tim, are the (wheel bearing) on a auto locking hub Tacoma same as manual locking hub? ( they share the same wheel bearing) I'm in the process of doing mine.
Yes, they are the same bearing. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/Dj-2IzO9RFk/v-deo.html
Hi Tim,
I have an 01 with ABS, what would I need to do this mod?
Would I need the axles as well from the donor manual hub Tacoma?
So all I really need is the manual hubs and the axles from the donor taco?
What year tacos had the manual hubs?
I would like to know how it works with your 4wd selector and the ADD.
It works just like it did before. The only difference is you have to lock the hubs to be in 4wd. If you shift the transfer case to 4wd, but the hubs aren't locked, the CV axles will spin, but will not give power to the front wheels because the CV shaft will just be free spinning inside the hub.
Hi Tim, I recently rebuilt a set of manual hubs to put on my Tacoma. I made the mistake of not buying new hub needle bearings and I believe one of them has failed. I am not sure if you have done this, but if you can help I would appreciate it. In order to replace the hub needle bearings I would need to:
1) Remove spindle.
2) Remove the notched nut.
3) Using a slide hammer (?) to remove the brass crush ring
4) Remove/replace the needle bearing (it should come out on its own or with the slide hammer?)
If you can let me know if this sounds right I would appreciate it very much!
I actually have never done a replacement of the brass bushings and needle bearing on a set of manual hubs. I have the parts for it, but haven't had the need for it yet.
I don't believe you need a puller to remove the brass bushings. I'm pretty sure you can use a long punch, insert it on one side and catch the lip of the bushing on the opposing side and start knocking it out with blows from a hammer working your way around to drive it out evenly. As for the needle bearing removal, I don't know if it's a press fit or not.
ORS (Off Road Solutions) sells the bushings and needle bearings and I would bet they know the steps to replacing the needle bearings. I'd give them a call. www.offroadsolutions.com/
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you for the quick response. I will give them a ring for more information. When I do the job I will try to remember to comment back with how it went.
@@Skyder12 Yes, please share your experience replacing the needle bearing. I'd like to learn the correct process from you.
My buddy here in KY tried to press his hub and bearing from a 2000 4Runner with no luck! used a 20ton press- I think the corrosion did it's damage.
I would suggest he try again after he heats up the outside of the knuckle really well with a butane torch. He doesn't need it to be glowing hot. He just needs to heat it up evenly around the whole circumference and then immediately try to press it out. I'd have the bearing with a little pressure on it while heating up the knuckle so it's ready to press out as soon as he turns off the torch.
Timmy The Toolman That's a great idea, thanks brother Tim!!
You're welcome Brother Jake. Let me know if my idea works out for your Kentucky Brother.
You were spot on- we tried again with Heat and, after much pounding with brute force/heat, she relinquished to our demands brother Tim!!
Good job gettin er dun Brother Jake!
Hi Tim, what if I wasn't able to torque my wheel bearing nut to the full 205 ft/lbs? Right around 150 ft/lbs on both hubs there was no one heavy enough with me to hold the tool down without it "rocking out". Will this drastically decrease the life of my bearing?
Hard to say. The nut is pre-loading the bearing. Will 55 ft-lbs make a big difference? I don't know.
This is one of the best upgrade for the Toyota. Using the factory locking hub will help save those axles lifespan & go gas
It is a cool mod. I like it more for the fact I could drive out of the backcountry if I broke a CV axle and the terrain allowed me to get out in 2WD. This way you could replace the CV axle at a more convenient location instead of being forced to fix it on the trail like you'd have to do with A.D.D. hubs.
Timmy The Toolman This is very TRUE but I haven't have this issues appear to my truck before on trail, hard Terrain, water crossing, & some rock climbing. For my axles & etc being the original From day one with the truck I haven't replace or fix this type of issues be4. Knock on Woods but this is one reason I went with the hub swap and I'm pretty sure that you know that our IFS isn't the best type for heavy off road, however it can be done just like the SAS.
I think most people won't end up breaking a CV axle while 4wheeling, but if you do break one, it sure would be nice to have the option to fix it elsewhere other than on the trail.
So with the ADD making the cv’s turn all the time does that mean the front diff gear set is constantly turning as well? The reason I ask is because my girlfriends 97 t4r passenger side differential seal is leaking and I don’t want it to run too low on fluid and destroy the gears before I fix it.
This is a good question and I'm not 100% sure if the ring and pinion are spinning with the CVs. I assumed they weren't but I'm going to ask this question on T4R.org and get back to you with the answers I got.
Timmy The Toolman thank you!
I did some more research and the ring and pinion gears do not turn in 2wd with an A.D.D. system. The CV axles are turning but they are turning a spider gear on each side and not the main ring and pinion gears. If the ring and pinion gears were turning, the front driveshaft would also have to be turning and I know for a fact the front driveshaft does not turn in 2wd.
Timmy The Toolman awesome! Thank you for looking it up
I appears the ring and pinion will turn a little at faster speeds. Check out this thread I started on T4R.org: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/260388-question-about-d-d-system.html
Great video as always! My only gripe is that you really shouldn't have greased the threads for the hub locknut as that torque sets the clamping force or pre-load on the bearing. Lubricated threads can nearly double the clamping force vs unlubricated threads using the same amount of tightening torque. It should be alright since they are very well made bearings (my original koyo wheel bearings on my Tacoma have almost 400,000mi on them), but I would expect reduced life due to an increase in operating temperature.
Edit: I forgot to mention that these wheel bearings, like most other wheel bearings, are double angular contact ball bearings similar to two tapered roller bearings faced opposite of one another so the pre-load is important for maximum bearing life.
Nearly double the force due to lubricated threads? Hmmm. I did a quick search and I didn't see a 100% increase in the torque with greased threads but I did see something about fasteners with anti-sieze on them would require 25% less torque.
This is interesting. So, I have a question. Are all torque values in a Factory Service Manual "Dry Values"? If that's the case, you would have to painstakingly make sure every fastener you are using is clean and dry. How many mechanics would take the time to do this?
Here's a few interesting reads:
bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/33782-Bolts-torque-and-grease
www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html
arp-bolts.com/p/technical.php
New and dry threads have a K-factor or friction coefficient of around 0.21, "dirty" threads around 0.27 or more, anti-seized threads about 0.16+-0.03, and well lubricated threads 0.12 or less. Tightening torque is directly related to clamping force via Clamping Force = Torque / (K x Bolt Diameter). Keeping all other variables the same except nearly halving the friction coefficient or K-factor with a good high pressure lube will therefore nearly double the clamping force when comparing to new dry threads (K~0.11 for high pressure lubed threads vs K~0.21 for new and dry). However, there is always some leeway that engineers have designed into the tightening torque of most fasteners because K can vary due to a number of factors like corrosion and machined tolerances. For most fasteners, clamping force is not that critical, but for things like head bolts and differential pinion nuts where there is bearing pre-load, it is important for the longevity of the part.
The service manual gives torque specs for dry and relatively clean threads unless it is otherwise noted such as for the head bolts. No mechanic has time to even torque most fasteners let alone clean them. Like I said, clamping force is not that critical for a vast majority of the fasteners on a car and even where it is critical there is usually quite a bit of leeway designed into a stated torque value to account for the variance in K. In your case, lubricating the threads at the very worst could have increased the bearing pre-load by 90%. But the bearings are designed for very high dynamic and static loads, usually more than double what you would normally put on them so that they last a long time, so I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
Thanks for sharing this.
I am happy to share. There are a lot of opinions and hearsay on the inter webs. If really want to learn more about this topic to please read up on it in an engineering textbook, don't take my word for it 😁.
Here is a good general overview of fastener design by Fastenal here:
www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Bolted%20Joint%20Design.pdf
Keep up the great videos Tim!
What about the vacuum line's and solenoid's...to the shift on fly...
We didn't touch them. With the way we do this mod, the ADD system stays intact.
Tim and Sean, Im considering a Manual hub swap using mostly OEM parts on my 1999 Limited 4runner before my trip to Alaska. The trip is 8500 miles round trip. Question is Timmy, do you like the swap you did on your truck? Thanks, Russ
I love the swap. My CV axles receive way less wear because they're only turning when I'm in 4wd and I lock the hubs. I also like being able to use the benefits of 4Lo when climbing steep paved mountain roads. Using 4Lo enables me to get the benefit of a lower automatic transmission temp going up steep roads without having to worry about damaging my front differential or CV axles.
I have heard that the manual hub CV axles aren't as strong as the ADD axles, but I've done a fair amount of 4wheeling in my rig and haven't broken a CV axle yet. Another thing is if you need to pull a CV axle with manual hubs, it's a little more work to get it out because of the extra parts. It's not hard, but it's more time consuming.
Thanks great info. So are you saying that I can use my 4low without being in 4 wheel drive? I feel stupid right now.
Yes. With the manual hubs in the unlocked position, 4 hi or 4 lo won’t spin the front tires
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks Sean, I already have parts ordered from Joe Joe to do the Manual swap
Same steps for a manual hub whele bearing replacement?
If you don't have ABS, you'll want to watch this one as well. ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.htmlsi=V3_5nQ_hwfqdqkSk
So only way too replace bearing is push it out ? I got an 03 tacoma with manual hubs wanting too replace bearings can u buy the whole complete
Yes, the bearing needs to be pressed out.
That would be very expensive. You'd have to buy the steering knuckle and the hub assembly. That would be big money.
So to be clear Tim…
I can get manual hubs and cv’s and use my knuckles in my 03 double cab? The knuckles themselves are interchangable?
Yes
Hi Tim, thank you again for your fantastic videos. They are always helpful and educational.
I'm about to press the hub back through the bearing, and have a question about the tone ring and bearing spacer: Is there any reason you couldn't press those in at the same time? My idea for the set up from top to bottom; press plate from sleeve kit, press sleeve, hub, bearing, tone ring, bearing spacer, a press sleeve that fits the bearing spacer diameter, then the bottom plate. The ABS ring and spacer would brace the whole face of the bearing so as not to damage the inner race. Do you see any reason this wouldn't work?
I understand what you're saying but I think it would be safer to get the hub into the bearing first making sure you properly support the inner race. Then just simply slide the ABS tone ring over the hub shaft. Finally, press the bearing spacer onto the shaft or maybe just tap it on with a hammer. The bearing spacer isn't a tight fit. It should go on fairly easily. If the bearing spacer was a tight press fit, then I think your method might be a good way to go. I remember grabbing onto the spacer and it just spun on the shaft off the hub so I know it should go on fairly easy. If you try your method let me know how it worked. If you tried my method, report back and let me know the technique you used to get the bearing spacer onto the shaft. Thanks.
@@TimmyTheToolman Alright, after reading this and looking at it some more I realized there was a lip that the abs tone ring sits on. I figured that it could be a bad idea to try and press everything on at once since the tone ring might hit that lip and then I wouldn't know if the bearing was seated properly, so I went ahead and skipped that idea. I did try it with the hammer and a properly sized press sleeve to set against the bearing spacer, but after some good whacks (I tend to not like whaling on things with a hammer) I decided to press it instead. With the properly sized press sleeve it went on very easily, and even made a definitive popping sound once it was seated properly. Didn't take much force at all. A note to anyone doing this: the tone ring and the bearing spacer will be able to spin and even move up and down just a bit, even once it is seated properly. Thanks for the brainstorm, Tim!
@@maximusbkk9232 Thanks for getting back to me and sharing this. Good to know using the hammer to get the bearing spacer in place probably isn't the right method. Since we don't have a dedicated video for a wheel bearing replacement, I'm gong to do this job for a guy very soon and film it. Lots of people ask for this video and I've referred dozens to our Manual Hub Swap videos. It's time for me to just make a video specific to replacing a wheel bearing. Good job getting this job done on your own. Most people take their knuckles to a shop to get the press work done and that's a big mistake. Shops screw up this job all the time. I've read about it countless times on Toyota forums. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Sorry to be off topic but does someone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb lost the login password. I appreciate any help you can give me!
@Otto Louis instablaster =)
Hey Tim, I'm wanting to do the manual locking hubs on my 99 4Runner. If I get used one's like in the video, do you recommend rebuilding them first? And if I can't find a used setup, is there a brand that you would recommend for buying brand new setup?
It depends on your situation. As far as I know, the Tacoma models that had manual hubs didn't come with ABS. If your rig doesn't have ABS, you could swap the spindles over as is and hope the bearings last for a long time. If you do have ABS, and you want to retain it, you'll have to swap over the manual hubs to your spindles. When you press out the hubs, the bearings get destroyed, so you have to replace them.
ORS (Off Road Solutions) sells a manual hub kit. I don't know of any other seller who does.
www.offroadsolutions.com/products/ors-manual-hub-conversion-kit/
@@TimmyTheToolman I have ABS and I would probably keep it. Is it possible to delete the ABS? I also have a factory rear diff lock, and using the rear diff lock turns off the ABS.
@erniekropf665 I've never done research on an ABS delete, but by simply removing the sensors at each wheel would render it useless. You'd however end up with an ABS dash light though.
Hey timmy, you guys are awesome because you make me freak out on things I need and start spending money. So I know it never ends with upgrades, as you most certainly know with your mall crawler, but I've just about dialed my 97 4runner in to where I'm good to go and not get stuck out in the middle of nowhere. So here it is, I feel I need to do this swap via my mechanic rather than hope I don't brake a CV or carry a spare and try to fix on the trail. I'm a little clueless to where I start looking for the parts to do this. Can you give some tips, thanks.
Hey John, if you're into serious mall crawling like I am, you definitely need this mod. Those mall parking lot speed bumps can be vicious. Start looking on Craigslist and Ebay for people selling the manual hub knuckles and CVs. I found a guy in my area who was parting out a 1st Gen Tacoma and picked up the used parts for $400. You could also look on Tacoma World in the classified section because people sell all kinds of stuff and part out trucks. Finally, you can get on the PickNPull website and save a search criteria for the earlier 1st Gen Tacomas, 1995 - 2000. PickNPull will notify you via email when a vehicle fitting your search criteria pops up within the search area distance you have specified. If you're lucky, you will find a wrecked one with manual hubs and you can grab the knuckles and CVs before somebody else nabs them. Good luck with the search.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks. I assume i need this mod because we do go on the trial's sometimes alone but don't do real crazy crawling. I do understand that with my 3 inch lift it wears the CV and a simple climb could break it. Hopefully i can get this mod done for about or less than 1,000$ but worth it if it breaks and not get stranded. Oh yeah i changed the upstream air fuel ratio all by myself. Im not very mechanically inclined. Thanks.
Hey Austin, you don't actually NEED this mod. It's just nice to have the option to fix the CV somewhere else other than the trail if you can get out in 2WD. If you break a CV out on the trails with A.D.D.knuckles, you'll just have to swap it out there or cut the shaft in the middle so you drive out. Replacing a CV isn't really that hard with the right tools.
@@TimmyTheToolman my biggest fear is not being able to get off trial if it breaks. So if i dont do this mod then as you say cut the axle and drive off? Maybe a video on what to do if you break on the trial. Plus i kinda want to sit with the cool kids at lunch. I wonder if this a good resale mod?
For an ADD knuckle, the outer CV shaft tightened into the hub preloads the wheel bearing, so you can't just remove the CV shaft and drive out. You need to either replace the CV axle or cut the shaft out of the damaged CV to keep the outer shaft connected to the knuckle to preload the bearing. The easiest solution is to just carry a spare axle and the tools necessary to swap it out on the trail. I would say this would be a good resale mod for a buyer who knows the benefits of having manual hubs. Even with doing the work myself, I still spent $800 on this mod. You would definitely be in the cool kids club with this mod.
Parabéns, quero fazer isso na minha 4runner 99.
Hey Timmy, did you apply the boot stretch mod to the Tacoma CVs as well? I’m really considering the manual hub swap because I’ve been going through inner CV axle boots like crazy. I applied the extended boot mod to one of my CVs and now a little grease is seeping past the extended portion of the boot clamp. Yes, the clamp is on very tight. Thanks!
No, I didn't do the boot stretch mod on my CVs. The lift on the front of my rig is probably only 2.5 inches and I have a 1 inch diff drop. The ribs of my inner boot aren't touching.
The manual hub swap is a consideration. Other than the fact my CVs are only turning when I want them too, is the fact I can use 4Lo going up very steep paved mountain roads to keep my trans temp down and I don't have to worry about any binding of my front diff and axles. There's also the benefit that you're not forced to replace an axle out on the trail if you're able to drive out in 2wd.
Have you tried using a screw-down style clamp on that inner boot connection? You might be able to get a tighter clamp onto the shaft
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the info, Timmy. Those are all great reasons to go with manual hubs.
I used a crimp style clamp from amazon, similar to the clamps provided with the OEM reboot kit, just a bit smaller.
I’m about to apply the boot mod to the other side soon, as it has torn within about 5k miles. I’m running a diff drop with a Dobinsons 2.5” IMS lift. Also have steel bumpers front/rear. I think the lift came out closer to 3”. The inner boot ribs definitely rub on each other.
@@gummybear916 You're welcome. You could also try extended silicone boots. Offroad Solutions sells them. I think if you do a screw-down style clamp, you'll get a tighter bond with the axle. You'll really appreciate the manual hub mod if you do it.
I am rehabbing an 02 Sport Edition, and almost everything I need to do has one of your awesome videos associated with it. However I'm going to replace the front wheel bearings and rebuild the knuckles in a stock configuration, and this video is as close as it gets in your catalog. Do you plan to have a video for that task in the near future?
Hey Mike, that's great you are finding our channel helpful. This video and the Manual Hub Swap Part 1 is basically all you need to be successful with doing the wheel bearings on your rig. There are other videos that could help you with the reassembly and that's either our CV Axle Reboot Video or our Upper Balljoint Replacement video. Here's some links:
ua-cam.com/video/vcCT4UgFUTw/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/-sY2azyLBuI/v-deo.html
All the information is there in the videos. If you have the right tools, you can do this job no problem. Good luck and Happy Wrenching!
Yessir, this is my second 3rd gen, and I'd replaced ALL the front suspension components and CV's on the first one (sometime in 2016), so I've been down that road before. Having said that, I have watched your CV axle video as a refresher / way to get new tips. When I did the project in 2016 I took the easy route and bought refurbished knuckles from a seller on eBay (all new bits and pieces pressed in), but this time I have the tools to rebuild them myself, so that's my plan. I already watched your UBJ video, and that seems straightforward, but the video I'd love to see would be one for pressing the hub and bearing out of the knuckle, and then pressing the new ones back in :). I do have some links to a couple t4r.org threads saved, and they have good pics and advice, but your videos are just the BEST! Since I'm not really a rookie after that first 4runner I'm sure I'll figure it out, but maybe just a heads up for a gap that I saw on the interweb for this particular video tutorial. You don't have one, and I couldn't find a good one from anyone else either.
@@michaelheit9321 Mike, the Manual Hub Swap videos Part 1 and Part 2 video shows all the press work you need with the exception of getting the bearing spacer in place which I assume is very easy to do. You could probably just tap it in place with a hammer and a press sleeve. We show all the pressing of the hub out, the bearing out and both back in and all the associated seals and retaining snap ring replaced. I know they are long videos but it's all there. Trust me. Watch the videos and you'll have everything you need.
Oh man, now I feel foolish, my bad. I watched a good part of the beginning of part 1, but not the entire thing, and didn't even start part 2. I'll watch the entire thing and get 'er done. My apologies man, thanks again! Sometimes I get ADHD and will jump between topics (I'm killin' many many projects on this truck). I probably started streaming another one of your videos and didn't bother to follow up with this one...
Is there not an axle nut at the end of the Manuel hub axles?
No, there isn't. Manual hubs are different. With A.D.D. axles, the nut tightened to spec properly pre-loads the wheel bearing. For rigs with manual hubs, the lock nut tightened with the special pin tool properly pre-loads the bearing.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks! I’m about to try and tackle this job on my 2000 Tacoma when I get the chance!!
@@grantCodogrunner Ok, good luck with the job when you get around to it.
Timmy,
There is some confusion related to the CV axle needed. You listed somewhere (whether it was on this video or the 1st one) the P/N needed for the CV. I looked that part number up and it did not say anything about A.D.D. There is another P/N that states "W/ A.D.D". So I am confused as to which one to purchase because I have heard they are different. If you can let me know I would appreciate it. Thanks
The one that says w/A.D.D. is for the non-manual hubs. A.D.D. stands for automatic differential disconnect. The part number for the CV axles we list in Part 1 is correct - #434300401084
parts.camelbacktoyota.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=434300401084&make=Toyota&action=oePartSearch&siteid=214329
@@TimmyTheToolman I guess they arent as expensive as I thought then because the A.D.D ones are like $400 each. The other P/N you just listed arent so bad. Let me look again at the OEM site I am using.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the info. Do you happen to know the spline count on the outer shaft splines? Trying to look into the manual hubs from Warn. They are calling for 26 spline count.
@@Heffe112 Yeah, I saw the same thing for the Tacoma CV axles. The A.D.D. ones are super expensive and the manual hub ones are about half the price. What's weird is the 1st Gen Tacoma A.D.D. axles are pretty much the same as the 3rd Gen 4runner axles and the 3rd Gen 4runner axles are way more affordable. Doesn't make sense why they are so expensive.
@@Heffe112 They are 26 spline on the outer shaft.
Awesome video! Could you make more videos on routine maintenance? Like what needs to be done every x amount of miles?
Georgia Trapper he’s got a 30k interval vid
Like Minh said, I have a 30,000 miles service video. Here's a link:ua-cam.com/video/a81i1Cayf_I/v-deo.html
I change my engine oil and filter every 5,000 miles. I use to do it every 3,000 but I'm running full synthetic now so I upped it to every 5k
I do a drain and refill of my transmission fluid every 10k. This exchanges around 4 quarts of the 12 quart system. At the same time I replace an in-line magnetic filter
I renew my coolant every 30k
I renew the front diff gear oil and transfer case gear oil every 30k
I renew the rear diff gear oil very 10k
I grease the driveshaft zerk fittings every other oil change
I replace the spark plugs every 15k
I replace the air filter when it looks dirty
Rotate tires every 5k
I guess that's enough. If you have any questions, just ask.
Hey I'm hitting ready to do this. Do know what the press sleeve kit you have is called. I need to get one and the one you recommended in the description is no longer for sale. Thanks
Also where did you get the 1 inch think bars if you don't mind
@@ericbrown6802 Here's a link to press sleeve kit I found on Ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/26Pc-Universal-Press-and-Pull-Sleeve-Kit-Bush-Bearing-Removal-Installation-Set/163230894198?hash=item260151c876:g:q54AAOSwaRRcalbw
Your most affordable option for 1" press plates is visit a fab shop in your area and see if they can cut you a couple. 3" wide plates that are around 14" long would be sufficient. If you don't have a fab shop locally, you can do a search on Ebay or Amazon for press plates. Here's a link to a set of plates I bought off Amazon: amzn.to/2tb83il The other plates I got from a fab shop and it was much more affordable.
Hey Timmy I have a off topic question. I have a 04 Tacoma 2.7l and it makes a ticking noise, nothing too loud only when the engine warms up use to be only in drive at idle but now it’s doing it in park too but not as loud. Could this be a flex plate problem. Or something different? Sometimes when I turn my Ac down or off it kinda determines how loud it is. Any help will be appreciated! Keep up the great videos!
It could be the flex plate but it also could be just the engine making some noise. The valve train can be noisy on some engines. My 2000 4runner ticks pretty good when it's cold but quiets down when it warms up. A cracked flex plate has a pretty unique sound to it. It's like a ticking/squeaking kind of sound. If you get yourself a mechanic's stethoscope, you could possibly narrow down the origin of the noise. You can video the noise, upload it and send me a link, and I can listen to it and give you my opinion. I'm currently traveling so I might not be able to watch it right way. It will depend where I'm at and whether I have an internet connection.
Timmy The Toolman I will definitely record the sound.. do you have a email or something you would like me to send it to? And thank you for the reply!
@@RidingWiithJacob Here's my email address: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
Timmy The Toolman ua-cam.com/video/Nq9zoiisLuA/v-deo.html
Haven’t got the chance to record the sound but this is the same exact sound only happens when truck is warmed up and idling not in park or neutral only drive and reverse.
@@RidingWiithJacob That doesn't sound like a broken flex plate to me.
Timmy what sleeve kit are you using for the job. I just got a HF 20ton press to do the job
Check the video description of Part 1. All the tools and parts used for this job are listed there. Also check the comment we pinned for other helpful information.
Tim,can you still run hub centric wheel spacers with the manual hub swap?
Yes you can. I just put some 1.25" spacers on my 98 rig that I did the manual hub swap on.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for all you do man,you have saved my ass a lot.
@@billshifflett8706 You're welcome Bill. Nice to know our videos have helped you out.
Hi tim im in Australia iv got a 2001 toyota hilux sr5 is it possible for me to install locking hubs
I'm pretty sure the hilux has the same knuckles as our US version 4runners but I could be wrong. If they are the same, you could do it. You would either have to source a set of manual hub knuckles and CV axles from a 1st Gen Tacoma or you buy a kit that sells you all the parts. Do people drive Tacomas in Australia? With sourcing the parts used, I spent $800 on this project. $400 for the used Tacoma knuckles and CV axles and then another $400 for new bearings, seals, and a CV reboot kit. If you had to buy everything new, this could be a very expensive modification.
Why won't my manual hubs reach the cv axle
Are you saying the shaft is too short?
So, just to be clear, you're using the 4Runner knuckles, with Tacoma manual hubs, bearings, seals, etc. and Tacoma manual hub CV's? Do you have part numbers for all these, or are they in your previous manual hub swap videos? Sorry if you actually mentioned that in the video. Keep up the awesome work!!
Well, you're sort of correct. Yes, I'm using the manual hub spindles, manual hub mechanisms, and manual CV axles from a Tacoma. The bearings, seals, snap rings are interchangeable between the Tacoma and 4runner knuckles. They are the same part numbers. The lock nuts are specific to the Tacoma manual hubs. And yes, I mentioned in the video that all the part numbers are in the first video along with a ton of other helpful info. You definitely want to check out the other video before attempting this project.
I don't see the manual hub spindle or manual CV part numbers in the first video. They are 43502-35160 (spindle) and 434300-401084 (CV axle) in case you wanted to add it somewhere.
Also, didn't mention this before: YOU ROCK!!! What you are doing with your videos is setting the standard for car repair videos on UA-cam!! Keep it the amazing work!!
Cheers
Thanks for providing the spindle part numbers. We're assuming people will get the spindles from the Tacoma knuckles they find for sale. Buying them new is quite expensive. We're glad you have such a high opinion of what we're doing with our channel. Sean and I are trying hard to provide good content for people. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it very much! Happy Wrenching!
Lol, updated my comment just as you were replying. Added the CV axle part number to that, which is unusually long for some reason. Got these from Camelback Toyota, but might check one other place as well to be sure. If you don't mind, I'll add these to the T4R.org thread as well.
Yeah, add those part numbers to the thread. I added the spindle part number to the original manual hub swap video description. Something isn't right with that CV axle part number. I'm not coming up with anything with a search.
Timmy where you at in California , can you install my 93 Toyota t100 50,000 miles manual hub , am in California as well
I use to do side jobs for people but it became too much. I now focus mainly on making new videos for our channel to help out anyone with an internet connection. Sorry I couldn't help you out but it's necessary for me to say no to avoid getting burnt out on turning wrenches. Good luck!
wow the prices are way higher now on these 4 years later. Only one I'm finding with a dust shield inctact is 1500!!! And that's not even including the CV!!
Interesting. Where are you looking? For reference, I have bought 2 complete manual locking hub sets used off eBay with the CV’s included for under $600 shipped. The backing plate was mangled and destroyed but I had intentions of rebuilding the hubs and spindles with new bearings and baking plates so that didn’t matter to me. Keep looking and I’m sure you will find it much cheaper than $1500.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman I was looking on Ebay. One set including CVs was 2k. I think people realized they are a hot commodity for 3rd gen owners.
@@rushthezeppelin Yep, they know people want them and they are going to gouge people. I bought my complete set which also included the front differential for $400. It sucks people are asking ridiculous money for used parts. For that kind of money, you should buy brand new components.
I hope your friends and family are safe from the California Fires.
Yeah, everyone I know is all good. Thanks for thinking about us though.
Anyone know if you buy the Aisin hubs brand new if they come with the gaskets? I’m talking about the hub cover gasket: 43531-60010 and the hub body gasket: 43422-60060. I’m just wondering if I will still need to get these separately even with the new-in-box Aisin FHT 019. Thanks! #sickmods
Hey Dan, I bought one for a trail spare and it doesn't come with the gaskets. It's just the hub.
@@TimmyTheToolman OK gotcha! Thanks, TTT! I appreciate your quick response on this, and I appreciate all your vids, man! I have an ‘03 Tacoma and it wouldn’t have half the #sickmods it has now without all the help you have provided with your content. Keep up the great work!
@@benbanose You're welcome Dan. I check in with the channel pretty frequently and try to answer people's questions fairly quickly. The only time I can't is when I'm on a trip in the mountains out of internet range. Sean takes over for me when that happens but sometimes he's on the same trip and then we don't get back to people for a few days or longer. On a recent 4wheeling trip in Death Valley, one of our camp sites in the middle of nowhere had coverage. So, I sat in my camp chair and answered questions and acknowledged comments while sipping a beer and enjoying the view from our kickass campsite in Echo Canyon. Our channel isn't so big that we get inundated with too many questions and comments than we could feasibly respond to. It is pretty labor intensive to do this, but I think it's a nice thing we can do for people. Some people are in the middle of a job and a quick answer is what they need. Also, most people that use our videos don't comment and i think it's a nice touch to acknowledge those that did by giving them a response. Anyway, I'm happy to hear our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching and Sic Mods!
@@TimmyTheToolman heck yeah man that is awesome! I haven’t been yet, but Death Valley is on my list for sure. I’m currently planning out my full front-end overhaul on the Tacoma so that I have no worries making a trip out to remote locations like that without a critical part failing on me. This video, and Part 1, of course, inspired me to just go for it on the manual hubs for the same reasons you stated in the vid; less wear on the CV’s in general, and the ability to unlock the hubs in the off chance that I snap one out on a trail. (and also so that I look cooler than the rest of the trucks out there navigating speed bumps at the mall lol!) Since I’m already going to be doing the work of pulling the knuckles and changing out the bearings and seals, might as well do it all then. Again, I can’t give enough thanks and appreciation to you, Sean, and everyone who has contributed to your channel. You guys really go the extra mile by recommending the right tools for the job, and all the right parts as well. Cheers! 🍻
@@benbanose Yeah Dan, you got to get out there for sure. But, I wouldn't recommend solo trips out into that area. Always go with at least one other rig. While we were out there, some couple got two flat tires in their Subaru and then decided to hike into this area called Mormon Point and pretty much got lost. They found the couple on some ledge. The guy died and the gal survived. They obviously made some stupid decisions but parts of Death Valley are so remote that it's going to be hard to get help.
For added safety and communication, I carry a Garmin inReach and pay for a service that allows me to send an SOS for help if I need it. It also gives you the ability to communicate with people via email. At every camp, my girlfriend knew exactly where I was because the message I sent her shows our location. It's pretty cool. It uses satellites to send and receive messages. If you're in California, maybe you can join us on our next trip out there. I'd like to make it a yearly trip in the early Spring, probably sometime in March.
Some people say the Manual Hub setup compromises durability because the CVs shafts are a bit thinner and not as strong. Yeah, whatever. I've wheeled a decent amount with mine and haven't broken a CV. But, I don't spin my wheels with reckless abandon when I'm in a tough section. If you do that and then your tire grabs, things have a tendency to break.
Thanks for being a fan of our channel and appreciating the level we go to to give people what they need to be successful. You're very welcome and good luck with all the work. Happy Wrenching!
You should invite me to bring my FJ Cruiser over for detailed technical tutorials. You'll get an influx of viewers bugging you with FJ questions.
Where do you live?
Timmy The Toolman Modesto
We'd be interested in doing some work on your rig. What do you have in mind?
Timmy The Toolman I’ve actually got full skid plates and a rear bumper with tire carrier coming in in about a week, a regeared electric front locking differential, reboot CVs, auxiliary fuel tank, ARB twin compressor, quick tire air up/down system.... blah blah blah. Whatever you want to showcase, I can set aside. I’m going to be doing these mods then hitting the trails on August 12 for a couple of days of camping with some friends. Bring your rig if you’ve got time.
I guess you’ll be doing it without us. We wouldn’t be able to help you until September. Oh well.
welcome cool kid
Yep, the Manual Hub Swap club is pretty cool.
manual hub is cool but it's not 3 outlet washer nozzle cool. next vid should be 3 outlet washer nozzle mod.
What is a 3 outlet washer nozzle mod? Is that for the front windshield washer? 2 isn't enough, I reckon? I think Manual Hubs are cooler. More style points while mall crawling.
www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247329-2000-limited-sleepydad-build-6.html#post3009697
Did you make a video of it?
Can I just bring my 4Runner over and pay you to do this? Im still confused :$
We're not really mechanics for hire. We have helped people out with repairs and mods in the past for things we've already made videos of but we like to put most of our time into making new videos because that's what benefits the most people.
I can't even get the hub free with a 20 ton lol
Cameron P sounds like some serious corrosion. Heat will be your friend.
@@TimmyTheToolman there is a threaded good ring on the back of the wheel hub.
This is a 2x4 spindle. Do I need to take that ring off before I press the wheel hub free? Could that actually be what's hanging it up?
@@cameronp5728 Yes, you need to take that ring off. Your 2x4 set-up is similar to a 4x4 manual hub set-up being that it uses a threaded on nut on the end of the spindle.
Then that is why it's not coming off lol oh well good thing this dspindle is a junk one lol I'm just using it as a trial before I take my actual ones off. Got the 4 pin socket coming in today.