Front Wheel Bearing Replacement (3rd Gen Toyota 4runner & 1st Gen Toyota Tacoma)
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
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In this video, we show you how to replace a front wheel bearing on a 3rd Generation Toyota 4runner (1996-2002). This would be the same procedure for a 1st Gen Tacoma (1995 - 2004).
If you were doing this on a 1st Gen Tacoma that has manual hubs or you own a 3rd Gen 4runner that had the manual hub swap mod done to it, use our Manual Hub Swap videos as a reference to perform this job.
Manual Hub Swap Part 1: • Toyota Manual Hub Conv...
Manual Hub Swap Part 2: • Manual Hub Swap Part 2...
If you found that your upper balljoints have play, this would be the time to replace them since you have the steering knuckles already off the rig. You can use our Upper Balljoint Replacement video as a reference to get the job done: • Upper Ball Joint Repla...
If you end up replacing your lower balljoints as part of this job, here's a link to our Lower Balljoint Replacement video and you'll find the torque values in the video description for the two different style bolts Toyota used for the 3rd Gen 4runners: • Lower Ball Joint Repla...
**Scott and Liam did report back that the steering shimmy at highway speeds dramatically improved after doing this job.
*PARTS*
*Wheel Bearings #90369-54002 - (Need 2)
amzn.to/33xTEg7
*Outer Seal #90312-95001 - (Need 2)
amzn.to/2svFbED
*Inner Seal #90316-69001 - (Need 2)
amzn.to/2q39G3Q
*Snap Ring for bearing #90521-99114 -(Need 2)
ebay.us/wjgpCG
*Upper Balljoint Reboot Kit - #43324-39015 (If you found your boots were ripped but the joints are still good)
www.toyotapart...
*Upper Balljoint - #43310-39016 (If you found your balljoints had play when doing this job)
amzn.to/2ssyLpK
**If you want to replace your lower balljoints as part of this job, here's a list of parts you'll need:
*Right (Passenger Side) Balljoint #4333039585
amzn.to/32UKWrP
*Left (Driver Side) Balljoint #4334039465
amzn.to/2Xvia06
*1996-2000 use a flanged balljoint bolt, part #90080-10066 (You will have to order these through a Toyota parts seller)
*2001-2002 use a bolt with a washer (it's a little longer than the 1996-2000 bolts), part #90119-10933. (You will have to order these through a Toyota parts seller)
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
Check out our pinned comment for the list of tools used for this job. The pinned comment is the first comment you will see.
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.
*If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.*
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythetoolman?isPublicView=true
*6 Ton Jack Stands* - (used to support vehicle while performing this job)
amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Heavy Duty Rubber Wheel Chocks* - (used to chock rear tires as a safety measure)
amzn.to/2mttRWp
*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set* - (used ones from this kit during this job)
amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun* - (used to remove lug nuts and other fasteners during this job)
amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt 3/8" Impact Gun*
amzn.to/2uqWnZy
*Dewalt Batteries* amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger* amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Extended Reach Ratchet*
- (great cordless ratchet with plenty of power)
amzn.to/3kOsUS6
*Milwaukee M12 Batteries (2 Pack)* amzn.to/2uoQlZs
*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery* amzn.to/2HEFTpu
*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger* amzn.to/2uo2o9x
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set* - (used the 3/8" ratchet. These are very handy ratchets to own)
amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet* - (used for some of the larger fasteners for this job)
amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set* amzn.to/2OehCao
*1/2" Drive Wobble Impact Extension Set* amzn.to/2VYERJj
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set* amzn.to/32WIh0M
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set* amzn.to/37iQjVt
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set* amzn.to/330QjGh
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set* amzn.to/35dKQwW
*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2WfSTGD
*1/2" Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2pCrdPQ
*3/8" Drive Deep Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2ZWjY6C
*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2KnoYaq
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers* - (used to remove and install cotter pins)
amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Knipex Large Diagonal Cutters* - (used to assist removing cotter pins)
amzn.to/300BRRE
*90 Degree Internal Retaining Ring Pliers* - (used to remove wheel bearing snap ring)
amzn.to/3op46BX
*1/2" Drive Breaker Bar - 24” Long* - (used for extra leverage to remove fasteners)
amzn.to/343Vcix
*Brake Caliper Hanger Hooks* - (used to hang brake caliper)
amzn.to/31JGsUA
*Rotary Hammer Chisel Set* - (used one of the small ones from this kit to help remove CV axle nut dust cover)
amzn.to/2OmiMCe
*Chisel & Punch Set* - (used a couple chisels from this kit to help remove CV axle dust cover)
amzn.to/37Fwdor
*Large Metric Impact Socket Set (29mm-38mm)* - (used 35mm socket from this kit to remove CV axle nut)
amzn.to/2qdhWhG
*OTC 6295 Front End Service Kit* - (all the pullers used during this job came from this kit. A very handy kit to own.)
amzn.to/2LuisQc
*OTC 4579 Slide Hammer Pullet Set* - (used to remove seals off of steering knuckle)
amzn.to/301Cg6D
*Ball Pein Hammer* amzn.to/2W5eHV5
*Plastic Mallet* amzn.to/2CCOqVP
*Tekton Extra Long Flex-Head Ratcheting Box End Wrench Set*
- (used to turn puller spindle when breaking free upper balljoint from upper control arm)
amzn.to/37xSDaV
*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches* - (used to remove and tighten brake dust shield bolts)
amzn.to/2oOhndL
In regards to the *Press Plates* I used for this job, the 2 wide black plates came with the 20 ton Harbor Freight Press. The 2 skinnier black plates I bought at a fabrication shop. I just had them cut two pieces of steel to the dimensions I wanted. The 2 gold plates came as part of an 8 piece kit I bought off Amazon made by Sunex. It's not exactly a super affordable option but there is a more affordable 6 piece kit offered by Sunex that included 2 press plates. Here's a link: amzn.to/2tb83il
*Harbor Freight 20 Ton Press* - (this is a great press that you'll lots of use from)
www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-h-frame-industrial-heavy-duty-floor-shop-press-60603.html
*Wood 4 x 6 sections* - get a 4 x 6 at any hardware store and cut off the sections you need
*Press Sleeve Kit* - (very handy for all kinds of pressing applications)
ebay.us/4V5LlN
*Mini Grease Gun* - (nice little gun for greasing applications)
amzn.to/2KKDXf2
*Red Devil All Purpose Grease* - (used in mini grease gun)
amzn.to/2O9DXY3
*
Red Line CV-2 Grease* - (Good high temperature grease for applications like wheel bearings. Used to lubricate parts for insertion into the knuckle)
amzn.to/37PQzvm
*Yost Bench Vice* - (vice I have on my bench. Yost makes nice vices.)
amzn.to/2ofa4LD
*Yost 6 Aluminum Vice Jaw Caps* - (jaws that won't mar the surface of the steel you are clamping in the vice.)
amzn.to/2PopCrd
*Brass Drift Set* - (used to drive outer seal in place on the knuckle)
amzn.to/2BrXfki
*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench*
- (used to torque some of the larger fasteners and lug nuts)
amzn.to/2UPhyjK
*CDI 3/8" Drive 10-100 Foot Pound Torque Wrench*
- (used to torque some of the fasteners)
amzn.to/2U2vUA4
*Cotter Pin Set* amzn.to/2OoD38K
**As Amazon Associates, we earn from qualifying purchases.
Does this video apply to the 2000 Toyota Tacoma prerunner?
Thank you
Excellent video very informative and interesting.👍
@@SDsailor7 Thanks for the compliment.
@@SDsailor7 Since your Prerunner is 2wd, it is a different process. Your bearing/steering knuckle set-up is like a Tacoma with manual locking hubs. Since you don't have a CV axle running through the hub and an axle nut to preload the bearing, you have a lock ring on the back side of the bearing to provide the preload. Check out our manual hub swap video and you'll understand how to do it. ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman Ok thank you👍
Why is it that every time my 4Runner breaks, you just so happen to put out a video on how to fix the part that broke? 😂😂 appreciate the videos man! They are a lifesaver!
I guess we are just inline with your every automotive need. Good luck with the job.
Hey Tim, just wanted to say thanks for having us on the show. I learned a ton, and i really appreciate your guidance and support.
My pleasure Liam,. Great to hear you learned a lot and I hope you stick with it and keep learning about auto mechanics. It's a great skill to have. Hopefully we can all wrench together again. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Haha good job kid! We all had to start some kinda way
Keep at it! Take on more projects and learn as much as you can.
Wish they had teachers like this guy and videos such as this one when I started out; in a word, a blessing.
Great to see the younger generation learning and someone willing to teach. Not as common as it should be👍👍
Tim, your videos have been a life saver for me! Just did this job a couple of weeks ago and glad I did. My ‘97 with 368,000 miles had a torn boot on the left lower ball joint and the bearing was getting dry. I’m still impressed with the durability of these trucks. I was able to use my 12 ton Harbor Freight press for the right side but had to take the left to a machine shop to have the hub pressed out. I was able to do the remainder. Your video was enough to inspire the confidence to tackle the job. Thanks also for sharing your knowledge with young people! I’m a real believer that folks should be able to repair their rides! Cheers!
That’s awesome frank! Thanks for taking the time to share your success with us, it’s comments like these that give us the fuel we need to keep going and making more videos to help you Toyota guys out! We hope more of our videos help you out with your rig in the future!
Same thing happened to me ! Right side hub would not budge from the knuckle. Tried everything, luckily i found a machine shop and they were able to get it free. Then after they tried to upsell me a new knuckle, saying mine was out of round cause I ran a worn bearing for too long (my bearings were fine, I was just in middle of front suspension refresh after becoming lbj statistic).
Needless to say attempting this job is signing up for a whole experience. Shout out Tim, who served as pillar of reference while I went to war with my machine.
Hi Timmy. Firstable I want to say THANK YOU! You are a great mechanic and awesome teacher. God bless you, stay healthy and keep it up because we need you!
Thanks! I appreciate your kind words. It's people like you that help keep.us motivated to keep making videos. Happy Wrenching Brother!
Dude you are a Godsend for the owners of these 3rd gens. I watch your videos for almost everything I fix on my 1999. Mainly because it's always done right. Thanks for the channel. Original owner 1999 Limited with 142000 miles. However I am always fighting the rust due to the salt used on PA roads.
Hey Ken, great to know our videos are helping you out. Thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it.
Noxudal 300s is what Toyota uses for undercoating vehicles in cold salty environments
You saved my life!! I was thinking toyota is easy car to work with but not front bearing job for Tacoma!! Thanks Tim!!
You're welcome!
Tim, awesome work on this wheeling bearing video. I had so much fun watching it I almost want to R&R my wheel bearings again. Your procedure, explanation, and camera shots are way improved over the first time we did wheel bearings together for the manual hub swap (early 2017). So cool to see a young wrencher doing a great job with a little guidance!
Thanks Jordan. That means a lot coming from you. I miss our wrenching and filming days togethers. We made lots of great videos.
I always appreciate your videos! Thanks Tim 🤙
Thanks Griff and you're very welcome!
One of my favorite Toyota Time How To's. Please do more of these type of videos.
Hey Robert, we're glad you like the video. What specifically did you like about it?
Timmy and Sean, thanks again for including Liam in this job! He gained a ton of valuable experience with your step-by-step guidance. He'll remember this forever, and these problem-solving skills will follow him wherever he goes. Very proud of this young man, and his 4Runner is driving much better now!
It was our pleasure Scott. Maybe we can collaborate on more jobs in the future.
Tim! I changed the wheel bearing last week on my 2004 Tacoma 4x4.
After watching your video about 5 times and a few others I decided it was doable for a DYI person like myself.
Had my PC on my work bench following every single step.
Picked up a used 12-ton press on Offer Up for $60.
It made the work so much easier rather than taking it to a shop risking it not having it done right.
I really appreciate all the details you talk about and then the write up with parts and tools you recommend.
Watching your videos got me into the Milwaukee ecosystem.
I’ve done a few jobs using your videos & purchased similar tools you recommend.
You are my wing-man mechanic when I work on my rig.
Is PayPal the only way to buy you a beer or do you have a different method?
THANKS AGAIN!!
Awesome to hear our video helped you replace your wheel bearing. Great job making the investment in tools so you could do the job yourself. Shops screw this job up a lot. You were definitely better off doing it yourself.
PayPal is the best way. You could try to Venmo me also. venmo.com/u/TimmytheToolman. Thanks!
Russian Comrade here:
Liam has a lot to learn, this was quite comical to watch, but we all were like that once.
Glad this guide is now in one place one video. Thanks Tim and Sean for your efforts.
Hey my Russian Comrade, yeah, Liam has a bit to learn, but just like anyone, he will get better as time goes on if he sticks with it. Hope you and your Bro are doing well. Maybe we can all go wheeling one day.
Tim, I love these videos. The fact that you’re passing on knowledge to future generations is awesome! You rock brother! 4 runner is getting close to 400k, and I love working on my rig :)
Hey Ty, we're happy to hear you like what we do. Yes, the goal is to pass on knowledge and hope it continues to be passed on to others. Thanks for the comment. We appreciate it!
If you own a Toyota 4x4 and put it in the mud regularly, this is a yearly or every two year job. I have a 97 Tacoma that has multiple wheel bearings, but with the right tires it will go almost anywhere. Great job Liam!!!!!!!!
Yep, Liam did great.
Good job kid everyone starts somewhere,and never stop learning. Even the best sometimes need guidance. Every person watching these videos is here for thst very reason.thanks timmy
Yeah, Liam did good and he's still wrenching and learning with his dad which is great. He's getting started at a good age. Thanks for the comment Rick. Happy Wrenching!
Nice Job as always, precise and detailed information. One bit of advice, when pressing hub into the bearing you can use the drum to support the hub.
Are you talking about using the rotor or actually pulling one of the rear drums off? I suppose either could work but I probably wouldn't do either because I wouldn't want to take a chance of tweaking the rotor or cracking the drum from the pressure applied.
Did the hubs on my third gen about two months ago. Really wish I would have waited for this video to come out first.
Hey David, sometimes the timing is right and sometimes it's not. Oh well.
Tim is an excellent teacher following all the textbook guidelines. This job was made easier with all the proper tools with his guidance: mistakes with bearings would be costly to correct.
I replaced wheel bearings on a Camry without a press nor a vice, so I speak from my own experiences. Btw: my job spread over two days.
Good job getting the job done Gary and thanks for the nice compliment. Yep, mistakes like not properly supporting the inner race of the bearing when driving in the hub could be costly if you damaged the bearings doing it. Sometimes you don't notice it right away but the damage was done and then your wheel bearings fail somewhere too soon down the road.
@@TimmyTheToolman Two mistakes you highlighted have been made by mechanics even in their UA-cam videos: inserting the bearing with the wrong side and forgetting the dust shield. Wheel bearing and timing belt replacement are perhaps the two most difficult (and also expensive) jobs. Your confidence and skills also stood out in all your videos without cursing that is often used to aid mechanics in lie of prayers.
@@gzhang207 Thanks Gary. But, I'd be lying if I said I don't curse. I curse plenty when I get frustrated while we're wrenching but we don't usually include swear words in our videos. Sometimes a swear word or two lets people in on the fact that we were seriously struggling to give the audience a realistic idea of how hard some things are. The goal of our videos though is to give the best information possible and quite often that is sharing things we tried that didn't work or highlighting mistakes we made so others hopefully can learn from it and not repeat them.
I successfully replaced my bearings today. Getting them out was alot harder than pressing them in. I used a 12 ton strongway press. I'd say it took around 11.5 tons of pressure to press hub out and about 7 tons to press bearing out, 4.5 tons to press new greased bearing in, and 3.5 tons to press new greased hub in. Thanks Tim!
Good job getting it done Cody. When people ask me if a 12 ton press is enough for this job, I usually tell them I don't know and recommend they get the 20 ton press. It does take a massive amount of force to drive that hub out of the bearing but good to hear the 12 ton was able to do it. You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out.
Your video made it SO much easier. Watched it a good many times before attempting. A 12 ton will do it, BARELY. I saw if it'll press the hub out at the beginning, it'll definitely do the rest of the job.
@@codyscott1161 Cool, glad our video helped you out. That was a fun day teaching the kid some stuff about turning wrenches.
Tim: Great videos! You're an outstanding teacher. Not only do you explain what you're doing, but you also explain why you're doing it a certain way and not another way. And you mention things that you've tried in the past that didn't work. All of this context is super helpful, and is usually left out of other You Tube "instructional" videos. For instance, when you explained that the new bearings come out of the box with that split inner race and that people think they've received a faulty bearing was really helpful. I didn't know what you were talking about until I received my new bearings and said "Ahh! That's what he was talking about!" Keep up the great work. Subscribed.
Hey Matt, I appreciate the nice compliment. It means a lot to us when we hear people like our way of making DIY videos. We will of course keep on making videos and thanks for subscribing to our channel. Happy Wrenching Matt!
I did it! I watched your video many times, purchase the Harbor Freight press (20Ton) and steel plates from IMS metal here in San Diego. I’m having it aligned now. Thank you very much for your step by step guidance, complete with torque specifications. Mark 02 Tacoma,4/4,3.4ltr. I forgot to mention I used my press to press in and remove it move upper ball joints. And I replace lower ball joints during this time. That’s why I had to get it aligned.
Great job Mark! It's nice to hear that by following our video tutorial, you were successful with replacing your wheel bearings. A front end alignment isn't necessary after a job like this, so I'm hoping you were doing it for another reason. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Huge thank you! I just completed this job yesterday with your help!
@@j1mbOZ31 Sicmods dude! Glad you got it done on your own with our video!! Thanks for stoping by the comments section to share your success!
- Sean
Just did this last weekend. Had to watch parts of several of your videos 🤪
Hey Terry, that's why we made this video instead of having people use more than one video to accomplish this job. Now instead of directing people to a couple videos, I can just tell them to use this one.
Thank you guys so much for posting these videos. Without this one and the JBA UCA video I could not have gotten through my last project.
You're very welcome. We're happy to know our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching!
So glad I held out for this video! Great job guys! Now I can get to changing out my front wheel bearings :) Thanks again, you guys made it look easy as always :)
Thanks Terry, good luck with the job. Hope it goes smooth for you.
Dang it!! Lol, literally editing a version of this job myself 👍👍👍 Good stuff man 🍺🍺 To be sure, I give you both credit for the knowledge I got to do this with Jordan's manual swap.
Ha Ha, we beat you too it. I'm glad we finally did it instead of having to direct people to our manual hub swap videos.
@@TimmyTheToolman lol!! To be honest, I pressed my hub in before putting the backing plate back on and the abs tone ring in backwards so had to reshoot a bunch, 😆
@@WeekendWrenchTurner These things happen. Hopefully the bearing didn't get damaged from pressing the hub back out because there's no way to protect the bearing as the hub is coming out. But, since it was just installed, the hub would come out without much force.
@@TimmyTheToolman I didn't want to risk it and dropped the extra money to get a new bearing. Was able to save the snap ring and seal fortunately. Also, good on you for giving the younger generation a go on this. That is awesome 🤘🤘🤘
@@WeekendWrenchTurner Smart move replacing the bearing. I would have done the same thing. Yeah, when Scott contacted me and said it was his son Liam's rig, I offered to let Liam do some of the wrenching. I think he learned quite a bit because I can tell he was pretty green working with tools. We covered a lot of basics like body positioning and mechanical advantage during the job. Hopefully he sticks with it.
Just completed this. Thanks to you my man!!!!!
Great job Larry. Thanks for sharing your success with us.
Your collection of bikes got massive in the garage timmy nicee
It's been reduced. I sold off a bunch of bikes to make room in my garage. I got rid of 5 so far and I'll probably sell some more.
Thanks Timmy , I was actually going to be doing this tomorrow . Keep up the great work , we all appreciate you...🍺
You're welcome Todd and good luck with the job. Hope it goes smooth for you. Thanks and Happy Wrenching!
Always nice to see a video where some one knows what their doing.
We appreciate the compliment. Thanks!
Watching a first timer take that spindle apart is hilarious. Like it’s gonna break. It’s a machine, you’re not gonna hurt it’s feelings to wack that thing with a BFH!🤣
We don't like Big F'ing Hammer technique. That's for neanderthals that haven't fully evolved.
I really enjoy your instruction. Clear voice, Good illustration. Thank you so much. You are sharp!!
Thanks for the compliment Larry. You're very welcome!
Nice!!! I love that you're teaching the kid some essential skills. 👍
Thanks Edward! I appreciate your comment. It's important to pass on these skills to the next generation.
Just a suggestion, and it might have been said already, but I replaced my rack bushings with high quality replacements. It took the extra slop out that I was experiencing. You probably already know this but I figured I would say just in case.
Thanks for your time and effort on the great videos!!
Hey Jonathan, Yes, we made a video about replacing the steering rack bushings many moons ago. It was one of our early videos we did around 5 years ago. Thanks for the comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman Awesome! I'll be honest, I just found your channel, so I am very slowly making it through the previous videos. Thanks again for your time and effort!
@@Toyotajunkie Well, you finally found us and that's the important thing. You'll find we have a plethora of videos that will help you out with your rig. Good luck and Happy Wrenching!
I literally have my sisters 98 apart in my garage trying to find a place to get bearings pressed after I replaced the whole front end, CVs, lower and upper balls, outer ties, 5100s with new coils. Dealership wants 1600 parts and labor even though I have the spindles off. I'm going to just bite the bullet I need a press anyways, so glad I found this video, Thanks Tim!
Hey Myles, I think Harbor Freight has their 20 ton press for sale right now. I saw somebody mention this on a Toyota forum and you can pick it up for $160. That press has been super handy to me and has never let me down. Dealership service departments for the most part are a serious ripoff. Do it yourself, save money, add helpful tools to your tool arsenal, and gain knowledge you can share with others. It's a win on many levels. We link all the tools we used in a pinned comment (first comment you see), so you can buy some of the same tools we used if you'd like. Good luck with the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman It's definitely on sale, every store in an 80mi radius of my local store is sold out. Can't wait to get this job underway for a fraction of the cost with the same OE parts.
@@mylesswann530 Gotcha. Well, good luck with it when you get all the tools you need together.
@@TimmyTheToolman Got everything buttoned up and put back together, But I missed the dust shields when I was pressing, Thanks again Tim!
@@mylesswann530 Oh man, you missed my warning in the video to not forget to get the dust shield on before pressing in the hub. I guess you were just so focused on the big moment of getting the hub pressed in you forgot. You could cut the dust shield and put it on in two halves. That would work, two bolt per half.
I remember doing this on my ‘01 Forester a couple years ago, quite the experience. Looks like I’ll have to do the same for my 4Runner. Thankfully Tim has a video for everything on these cars. Awesome job as always Tim!
Thanks Mike. Good luck with the job when you get around to doing it.
@@TimmyTheToolmanIt was fun watching this whole video Tim. You really taught that kid good. Really appreciate how thoroughly you explained everything. It’s really needed on a job this long with so many important steps. Great job! 💪🏻👍🏻
@Mike Thanks Mike. It was a fun day teaching Liam and letting him do a lot of the work. Him and his dad Scott are still turning wrenches together which is very cool.
@@TimmyTheToolman This is what being brought up old school was like brother. We have to teach the new generation to fend, survive and not be useless, conceited like most of them are out there.
@Mike I agree Mike. I think parenting has gone downhill over the generations. I think it stems a lot from people spoiling and enabling their kids which does the kids no benefit. I learned to be responsible at an early age. I started delivering papers at age 11 and making my own money. This helped form me into a responsible and hard working adult. These days, some kids never get a job while they're in their teens. They get out of high school, go right to college that mommy and daddy are paying for, graduate and then try to get into the workforce with very little life experience. It sets them up for failure.
I think Scott is bringing up Liam well. He seems like a great kid. It's very cool to see a father and son sharing an interest in auto mechanics. Men are acting less and less like men, if you get what I mean. When I was in high school, all my friends knew something about auto mechanics. Nowadays, kids are being brought up totally clueless how to fix things using basic troubleshooting skills. It's becoming a lost art.
Anyway, thanks for the conversation. Happy Wrenching!
Excellent training video and teaching a young man how to properly repair equipment.
Thanks Lee. It's important to teach the next generations auto mechanics so it doesn't become a lost art.
Awesome job Liam, whoo hoo! Thanks for a great video Timmy!
Yep, Liam did well. Thanks and you're very welcome.
Hey, just wanted to say thanks for your video. Very thorough and helped me tremendously with first time at a wheel bearing swap.
You're welcome Justin. We're glad our video helped you out.
I can't tell you how valuable these video are to those of us trying to get the most out of older Toyota trucks! I have already done a bunch of work on our company trucks.
Have you ever installed front wheel bearings on a 2WD 1st gen Tundra? My company owns three of them and they all need to be done. Looking for a good video.
We haven't done this job on a 2wd but the job would be similar to what you'd see on a rig with manual hubs. Instead of having the CV axle nut that preloads the bearing, there's a lock nut that screws onto the shaft of the hub that is tightened to a high torque value that preloads the bearing. Check out these two videos for information on how to perform the press work:
ua-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/1TpOYj0sUpA/v-deo.html
Great work Timmy, thank you on behalf of all the 4runner fans. Just to comment that there is no video anywhere on the web where the process to change the motor oil pan gasket in a 4X4 platform (5vfzfe).
This could be an interesting international reference, for all of us toyota fans.
Greetings from La Paz, BCS; Mexico.
Thanks and you're very welcome. We're glad you like the video. We love our Mexican Brothers. Thanks for the comment.
Thank y’all so much for this video. I really like how you thoroughly explain each step! I was able to change out my own wheel bearing with the help from this video and saved myself a ton of money!
Thank you so much!
You're very welcome. We're glad you found our video helpful and good job getting it done yourself. Happy Wrenching!
Well done Tim! You explain the process step by step very good and we got the view of what you are doing. Excellent
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!
Dang, it would be so awesome to have friends that are mechanics willing to teach you how to do stuff like this. Way to be that person for Liam, Timmy! But also, thank God for youtube and your channel! Keep up the great videos!
Thanks for the kind words Larry. It was a great experience teaching Liam a little about auto mechanics. He's still turning wrenches with his dad which is awesome to hear. I wish I could have did this with my dad. My dad was a big fisherman so we did a lot of that together. We will keep on keeping on cranking out videos. Happy Wrenching!
I can tell your a good mechanic because you actually remove the cover properly and not just bend it like every hack mechanic.
Thanks. I appreciate that. I've worked on quite a few people's rig over the years running this channel with Sean and lots of those covers are mangled by impatient mechanics that don't give a shit. There's no excuse to damage that cover. It's just pure laziness or a case of not knowing what you're doing.
Great information in this video... Reassembly: Toyota uses a thread locking material on the 4 bolts that mount from under lower ball joint.
Loctite is never a bad idea, but for the most part, if fasteners are torqued properly, they're not going to come loose. Thanks for sharing this.
I am always jealous when I see 3rd Gens like these with no rust on the undercarriage.
Yes, we are spoiled in California weather wise. In other ways, we're not so lucky.
This video was extremely detailed and very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
We're glad you found our video helpful. You're very welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching 😊
Never underestimate the power of the Black Diamond headlamp. My favorite one.
Yeah, they are great. I couldn't imagine turning wrenches without a good headlamp. Where ever I look, I have light. No adjusting flashlights or other lights so I can see what I'm doing.
2002 2Runner 280,000miles time for some front end suspension replacing... Thank you soo much for the very informative videos!
time to order some parts and get dirty!
Marty McCarthy
Roanoke,TX
You're welcome Marty. Hope all the work goes smooth for you. Happy Wrenching!
Teaching the next generation. Awesome!
Yep, its great to pass on experiencing and knowledge to another generation. I don't think there's that many kids like Liam these day though. They'll usually more into video games.
You are legendary of Toyota. Job well done Tim👍
Thanks Phat! We appreciate you giving us the Legendary Status.
The kid tried so hard using his legs and arms to get the wheel back on that was hilarious 😂
There is a first time for everything, and you don’t know what you don’t know.
Good overall instruction... way too much grease going to migrate to places you don't want to grease. Gobs of grease on the tone ring will give a bad signal.
After editing the video, i did think of the chance grease could affect the ABS signal if enough of it got on the tone ring. What I do know is if that does happen, all you would have to do is pull the ABS sensor, rotate the wheel and use a few q-tips to wipe off any heavy deposits of grease. But, I'm pretty sure it's fine because they've been driving it with no lights popping up on their dash. If an ABS sensor loses it's signal, the ABS light will illuminate on the dash. Thanks for the comment and glad you like the video.
Excellent video! Thanks once again!
Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome.
Amazing informative video As Always Timmy
Thanks
Thanks for the instructional, made the job much easier
You're welcome Chase. Glad our video helped you out.
Great job helping out your fellow neighbors! We’re all like Liam amd need some guidance 👍
Yep, helping people out is what we're all about. Not enough young people are getting into auto mechanics these days. When I was a kid in the 70's and 80's, all my friends turned wrenches at some level. That's not the case anymore.
Timmy is the guy
And the MAN
Отличный дядька!!! Приятно смотреть его видео. и объясняет подробно
I had to use a language translator but I understand you like the video and appreciate the level of detail we show for this job. Thanks for the comment and Happy Wrenching!
Your the man very informative video’s me and my son getting it done thanks My friend.
You're very welcome Bo. Great to hear you're turning wrenches with your son. You're a good dad!
Like always your videos are a lifesaver. Spot on , detailed, & accurate...and very entertaining. I'll be doing this very job in about a half hour. I do have a couple questions I hope you can advise me with. I have a 98 3rd gen 4wd with blown motor, 5vzfe, I can get an 05 that has been rolled with a good low mileage 4.0. I would like to know if it is a viable swap & if I would need anything that would not be on the donor vehicle. Also I would like to purchase some of the shirts like the dealership style, as seen in your excellent videos. Thank you again, Keep up the good work and SICMODS FOREVER!!!
Hey Burton, great to hear you appreciate our videos. In reality, any engine swap is possible with the necessary modifications, but will it pass an emissions inspection with your state. Engine swaps require quite a bit of modification so I suggest you watch our 2UZ V8 Swap to understand what I'm talking about. We don't sell those shirts. We have them made by an online store: www.automotiveworkwear.com/ We will keep on keeping on and of course Sicmods will continue.
The front wheel bearings are called double roller bearings. Heavy machinery often use this type of bearing. Shims are often used to set the preload of the bearing.
Good to know. Thanks for sharing.
Is it recommended to replace the wheel hub when replacing the wheel bearings?
No. The hub doesn't need to be replaced.
Thanks for the work and effort put into this!
Hey Jose! Thanks a lot! We definitely put a lot of effort into all our videos. Thanks for the recognition and taking the time to comment. It’s comments like these and people reporting back on their success that keeps us going!
Great job, great video as usual Timmy. Much thanks.
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Wow that's a lot of work, great teaching, thank you so much Timmy
Yep, it's a fair amount of work for sure. This is a video some shops should watch. So many people have reported botched jobs when they either paid a shop to do the whole job or just dropped off the knuckles for the required press work. Invest in a press and avoid the animals at the shops that don't know what they're doing. Thanks for the compliment and you're very welcome.
@@TimmyTheToolman how can I support your channel, I find it very helpful,
@@juvillace22 We have a tip jar link on the bottom right corner of our homepage picture. Knowing you appreciate our videos is payment enough, but if you really want to donate to us, that's how you can do it. Thanks!
what a pain. but you made it look pretty much like clockwork. nice job!
Yes, it's an involved job but very doable with the right info and tools. Thanks and Happy Wrenching!
3 out of 4 of these I have done have just wound up pressing the whole bearing out of the knuckle instead of just the hub out of the bearing, deforming and destroying the snap ring that retains the bearing. I would highly recommend ordering new snap rings with the bearings beforehand. I was swapping to manual hubs so I had new hubs or I would have been hosed. Still had to drive 2 hours to a dealer that had the snap ring in stock lol.
Wow, that must have taken considerable force to overcome the snap ring. it's definitely much easier to press the hub out first. For sure everyone should replace the snap ring as part of this job.
@@TimmyTheToolman I was trying to press the hub out, exactly as you are. But instead of the hub breaking free the snap ring fails with much the same noise but with a little extra crunchy sounds too lol. The first time I was very confused. By time number 3 I guess that's just what you get in the rustbelt. The 4th one I put the whole knuckle assembly in the oven for an hour and it pressed out normally LOL.
@@jeep6242 Oh, I understand. You're dealing with significant rust. Rust is definitely a game changer.
I need to buy a press. Good video, good teacher.
Yes, a 20 ton press from Harbor Freight is money well spent. It comes in handy for a lot of jobs. Glad you like the video and I appreciate the compliment.
Thanks for the video.. especially with torque specifications
You're very welcome.
Fun thing about doing things together is bonding time !
Yeah, it's usually a fun time wrenching at my place but things can get tense at times when we're exhausted and getting frustrated. This was a great experience sharing some of our knowledge with Liam.
@@TimmyTheToolman You could see he was being careful. I remember being like that too 😄 sometimes you gotta show a part who's boss
@@nikovandh Yeah, he was being very careful. We had to tell him several times to just pull the damn trigger on the impact gun all the way. At first I thought there was something wrong with my impact gun but it was just because he wasn't pulling the trigger fully. He definitely learned quite a bit that day.
great video as always, question though, I am trying to find a pipe or something to push the 3 and 3 quarters outter race after i get the snap ring out. What did you use and where do you suggest i get it? thanks in advance!
We used a press sleeve from our press sleeve kit to push the bearing in to detention the snap ring. We link the kit in the video description.
Excellent vid! I need to do this on my 2004 Tundra 2WD which is very similar.
Yes, most are extremely similar in nature. We will pray to the Toyota gods everything goes smoothly for you
you're the Men man! Fkn Saved Me! Gr8 Video!!
Glad you found the video helpful Gabriel. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for your video great details. Better than the toyota manuel.
Thanks Dan. I appreciate your nice compliment.
This is a lot more work than i thought! Quite the investment needed in tools to do this yourself. You can buy an entirely new knuckle that has a new bearing, hub, and upper balljoint already all installed. From toyota direct, a new knuckle is pretty pricey and does not include the other components. From aftermarket like moog, its about 250-300 dollars for each side. Do you have any experience with these particular aftermarket parts? Or would you recommend sticking to oem genuine parts for something like this?
Stick with OEM. Also, make the tools investment. Tools pay for themselves very quickly and keep.saving you money over time.
That grease will heat up and seize the Bearing into the Spindle. Use clean motor Oil or a light Oil like WD40 on the Spindle inside & the Axle Splines. These are recommended by the manufacturer.
High temperature wheel bearing grease will heat up and seize the bearing onto the spindle? Where do you get this idiocy from? If that's the case, why don't the bearing ball bearings seize inside of the bearing races since they are lubricated with grease? High Temp Wheel Bearing Grease is meant for parts that are spinning a high rates of speed that generate significant heat.
Great video... good job Liam
And 39:20 kinda funny you see a head just peaking out of no where... lol
We're glad you like the video, and yes, Liam did a good job. That part in the video is the most important step to get right. The big mistake shops and DIYers do is not support the inner race while pressing the hub into the bearing. Thanks for the comment.
Hey Tim, love the videos as always.
I hit you up about a month ago on the topic of ultrasonic cleaners. I just wanted to give you a follow up message saying don’t waste your time and money. No sooner than I started bragging to you about my cleaner it broke down lol. I got a refund then went and bought another one that was a different brand. I didn’t have any luck out of it either broke down within the first week of use. Don’t get me wrong they’re great to have when they work. If you can get a good one there awesome but paying $5000 for one that’s not made in China is not cost-effective. So I myself am back to brake parts cleaner and degreaser’s. That’s one thing about a plastic scraper and elbow grease it doesn’t break down on you. Just figured I would give you a heads up in case you are still looking into getting one.
On a side topic I recently did a job on a passenger side front axle shaft bearing. It was on an 03 Tacoma. I looked online a lot and didn’t find much help even East Coast gear supply said to slide hammer it out. That will not work btw. Everything I looked at online people were asking more questions and getting no answers. I removed the axel seal then the inner and outer snaprings from the bearing It would slide in and out just a little bit at that point. I finally took the four-wheel-drive actuator Off and noticed another snap ring on the end of the shaft holding a gear on. I ended up taking the whole sleeve loose from the differential pressing the bearing off and back on. Then re-assembling everything with a new axel seal a new O-ring and Toyotas orange FIPG to seal the actuator back in place. Then putting it back on as one big piece to the differential using the orange FIPG again. I know you have to work pretty fast using FIPG reassemble in less than 15 minutes it says. From what I did see online guys were using the “right stuff Permatex”, flang sealant and all kinds of different things they thought were right. So I would say that would be a good video to do. Show people how to actually do it right. I’m sure a lot of people would be interested. Thanks Looking forward to a new years worth of videos.
Thanks for the heads up about the ultrasonic cleaner. I didn't buy one yet. I have wondered what the right way would be to replace that passenger side bearing the CV axle runs on. So, do you think the way you did it is the preferred way? Did you take any pictures along the way to show how you did it? I'll take a look at my manual and see if I can glean any info from it.
With a Bearing Splitter you can also press the inner race off the hub. Harbor Freight has a decent Bearing Splitter Kit. I was able to rebuild my W59 using the HF Splitter Kit. Check it out!
I've used a bearing splitter to get a stuck race off a hub, but I had to knock out the lug nut studs to be able to fit the bearing splitter under the race.
Grease is not required to press the bearing into the hub assembly. Grease will occupied some space around the hub.
Yeah whatever. Grease helps parts with assembly and it's not going to hurt anything. I've done two manual hub swaps and now this job and grease hasn't had any negative affect. Grease reduces the surface tension and allows parts to press together with less force. Grease will also facilitate a much easier removal if the job ever needs to be done again. I've seen it where the inner race of the bearing gets stuck onto the shaft of the hub and then you have to cut it off. You're entitled to your opinion, but so am I, and I don't agree with you.
Great informative video, only NEVER use wood in a press!
Never use wood? I've used those wood blocks for many wheel bearing jobs. I disperse the load by using steel plates in between the wood and the spindle and the wood and the press crossbar which prevents a concentrated load on the wood. So, I'm not going to agree with you. Those wood blocks have worked and will continue to work just fine for this application.
I had those Michelins. They were ok. Expensive. Quieter than the prior Bridgestones and Dunlops. Yoko Geo AT’s are equally quiet, better snow stopping, fewer dollars.
Interesting comment for a wheel bearing video, but thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@TimmyTheToolman this is the channel for details. Great vid. I am swapping wheel bearings.
@@Thojo-qt7iu Yes, our channel is all about the details so people can succeed using our videos as a tutorial.
Have you guys put the Energy Suspension Urethane Bushings in the front yet? They’re AWESOME!
I'm guessing you're talking about control arms? If you are, I definitely don't like them for the LCAs. Whiteline is a much better choice.
here is a good one for ya! does it mention anywhere in the FSM that the wheel hub NEEDS to be replaced with a new one along with the bearing? as in the Hub is a non-reusable part? This is what my local Yota dealer told me this past week and why the wheel on my taco has this minor wobbly knocking on the left front still. That the hub was not replaced along with the OEM bearing years ago after it had a china-made bearing fail in 5k miles after install. I think this shop put the OEM bearing in backwards is why it is still knocking like at the beginning of the video here. but IDK yet!
The dealer service dept said the hub on these has to be replaced with the bearing, this hub has an MSRP of over 200$ !! I've also been told by some other places (firestone and another yota specialty shop) that you have to replace the hub when you replace the bearing... its all very confusing!
The hub DOES NOT need to be replaced. The dealer and those other shops don't know what they are talking about. They just don't want to deal with pressing the hub out of the bearing. Sometimes, one of the races gets stuck onto the hub, and then you have to grab it with a bearing splitter and press it off. The hub is just a hunk of steel and it doesn't go bad. The only time it needs to be replaced is if the vehicle got into an accident and it got bent.
Good video please wear safety glasses 👍
Glad you like the video.
The press gods love you I work in a automotive machine shop and they don’t like me lol
You have to appease the Press Gods somehow. Maybe a human or animal sacrifice. Just kidding.
@@TimmyTheToolman I know a few people that would work 😉
@@stevematlock6527 Win-Win.
Thanks for all the hard work on these videos Tim! I got a 4Runner a few months ago and your channel has been the most reliable resource for fixing this thing up. I recently joined the forum as well and I live in the East Bay so I’m hoping to make it to a meet soon (I know there’s actually a bbq tomorrow but I can’t make it unfortunately).
Anyway, I’m in the middle of replacing my upper ball joints and right after pulling the knuckle from the car, I noticed there’s very slight play in the hub. I’m sure that wasn’t there when everything was still assembled, but you also mentioned in the video that the axle nut loads the wheel bearing. So now I’m stuck here wondering if I damaged the wheel bearing in the knuckle removal process somehow, or if the little bit of play is just because there’s no longer an axle nut pressing it all together. What are your thoughts? Thanks! -Troy
You're very welcome Troy. Are you actually feeling play when you grab onto the face of the hub and rock it back and forth? You couldn't have damaged anything simply by taking it off the vehicle. If there is some play and you want to confirm tightening the CV axle nut actually gets rid of it, with the knuckle still off the vehicle, slide the axle back in the hub and tighten the axle nut just relatively tight with a 1/2" drive ratchet. Now grab the hub and rock it back and forth checking to feel if the play is gone now or is still there. On the wheel bearing jobs I've done, I don't remember feeling any play but I wasn't really looking for it either since we just put new bearings in. If you try what I suggested, let me know how it went. You're going to miss a good party. We might have as many as 37 rigs there and 70 people.
I guess “play” was a bad choice of words. With the whole knuckle assembly off the car, the hub was just clicking when I rocked it back and forth, but I couldn’t visibly see any play. I could just hear and feel a click. And I hadn’t thought to just bolt it back onto the axle and test it again, hahaha. So I just did, and after getting the axle nut hand tight, the clicking is completely gone. So I’m just gonna hope all is well and finish this upper ball joint job. Thanks for the help!
@@troyferrara8120 That clicking is the bearing spacer and ABS tone ring on the inside of the hub. It doesn't fit onto the shaft all that tight. That has fooled lots of people who think something is wrong with it based off the play they are seeing.
Good video. I feel like you are using a little too much grease. One problem with doing that is that you can have grease trapped between the bearing and the knuckle preventing the bearing from seating fully as grease does not compress.
Your comment about the grease would hold true if the cavity I was pressing the bearing into was completely sealed, but there's a big opening on both sides of the knuckle. Since the grease has a space to squeeze out of, it's going to find the path of least resistance and push out. The fact we were able to get the snap ring installed, let us know the bearing was fully seated into the knuckle. Make sense? I hope so.
@@TimmyTheToolman Well, in this case, it worked out, but there are cases where it would be a problem. Ask me how I know.
A little side note also: I see you are a bike guy. In the bike world, it does not really matter how much grease you use (in fact in many cases, you can't have too much grease). In automotive or other motorized applications, however, you really need to know what you are doing. There are many disadvantages to using too much grease. The amount of grease you applied around the seals for example attracts gravel and other harmful particles which can severely shorten the life of seals. You want the area outside the seals to be as dry as possible so that the seal lips are only lubricated by a thin film of residual grease or oil from whatever they are sealing.
This does not necessarily apply to this video, but when it comes to bearings, you have to measure by weight the amount of grease you use based on the dimensions of the bearing. There is a neat formula you can find on the SKF website. Again, when it comes to bikes, it doesn't really matter. In automobiles and other high-speed machines that use bearings, when you use too much grease, you can have lubricant churning which pushes grease away from the surfaces that need to be lubricated and separates the soap in the grease from the lubricating oil again severely shortening the life of a bearing.
@@moshet842 Interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Timmy, another awesome and helpful video! every time I need to work on my 4runner your page is my first stop! I have an 2001 2wd runner needing front bearing replacement. I cant seem to figure out if the 2wd needs inner and outer bearing seals. I've seen other vids for 2wd showing only 1 seal for the 2wd model. Any chance your familiar with the 2001 2wd runner front wheel bearing replacement ?
The 2wd steering knuckles will be similar to the 1st Gen Tacomas that had manual hubs. The bearing preload is set with a lock nut rather than the CV axle nut. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/1TpOYj0sUpA/v-deo.htmlsi=9HZmzdV7rGtys-1- and it will let you know how to do it. Because you don't have a CV axle, you won't have in inner seal for the knuckle. From what I remember, there's some sort of cover that keep water and other contaminants from intruding into the knuckle and contaminating the bearing.
thank you for the speedy response! the provided link along with your video helped me complete this repair. Many thanks Timmy, you rock!@@TimmyTheToolman
@@TheAtak85 You're welcome! Great to hear our video helped you out.
Fantastic video!! Takes me back to when I was turning wrenches.. got a basic question for you, how did the wheel speed sensors function with the greese on the teeth? Any errors or abs trouble codes? Thanks
The ABS sensor worked fine with some grease on the ABS tone ring. I was a little sloppy with the application of the grease. It would be ideal to keep the grease off the teeth of the tone ring. Glad you like the video.
What the heck is that... a completely intact brake dust shield??? Our 4Runners here in the Northeast don't have anything like that.
Yeah, we don't have much rust issues on the west coast but we have other issues like bum camps and trash everywhere you look.
I took the wheel off to do brakes once on my 5 lug Taco on a lift once. I sneezed on the splash shield while getting ready to take the dust cap off the bearing and that was too much for it and it fell to the shop floor in a rusty heap LOL.
@@jeep6242 Man, I feel for you guys who have to deal with significant rust. That would take some of the fun out of it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Just once I would like to see you deal with a rusty fastener! Your videos are awesome and super helpful but you are working in a state of nirvana that doesn't seem fair to the rest of us.
@@jaysheehan6122 Well, you know what they say, life isn't fair. If we were dealing with rust, we would just have a lot more editing to do from my cursing when we break off fasteners and have to extract them and retap threads.
Hi Timmy! I’ve tackled many jobs on my 1st gen Tacoma with the help of your video including the timing belt W/P and the most recent, valve cover gaskets. I’m going to be tackling this soon on some spare spindles I have and I’m curious if the attached parts will work for my Tacoma. It’s a 2001 with ADD and no ABS. the reason I’m asking is because Amazon says these parts won’t work with my truck. I’ve always heard 4runner, Tacoma and early model tundras have the same spindles. Just wanted to make sure before ordering parts. Any info is appreciated. Thank you!
Yes, the parts we list in the video description with work for your Tacoma spindles. Great to hear our videos are helping you out. Happy Wrenching!
Time to do my driver side, front wheel bearing. Found that it has a little bit of play in it the other day. Curious Tim or anybody else? Have you used the hub grappler method? Watched another video where a guy used one of those tools seemed like a hell of a lot easier method than having to remove The knuckle and use a press to remove the bearing/hub. Any experience with this? Thanks.
Nope, I don't have those hub grabber tools. My guess is that set of tools is pricey.
Thanks man, great video. What's a good rule of thumb for the life of front wheel bearings on these rigs? I have a 99 4runner 4x4 and an 03 tacoma pre-runner 2x4 with 228,000 and 215,000 miles respectively. No issues yet... fingers crossed. Thanks
Hey Michael, there's no rule of thumb really on how long they last. It can depend heavily on how the rig is used. If you go 4wheeling, run bigger tires and maybe wheel spacers, the wheel bearings won't last as long. I'm glad you liked the video. Hopefully, you'll never need this repair.
No one seems to have asked the obvious question: Why not buy the whole assembly predone with all the bearings and races?I don't have a press and the associated press sleeves etc. It will be aftermarket and just getting all these tools to do just one bad bearing seems a bridge too far?
Well, because aftermarket parts are inferior to OEM. You'll get an inferior knuckle, inferior hub, and most likely an inferior bearing, but sometimes these assemblies will come with a good bearing. So, you're throwing good parts for inferior ones, that's why. The tools will pay for themselves after one or two uses. A press and press sleeve kit isn't a single use item if you like to turn wrenches. They can be used for lots of other jobs.
If you have a shop near you that isn't incompetent, you call pull the knuckles and have them do the press work for you. But, you have to be really choosey using a shop. So many shops screw this job up, mainly due to the fact they don't properly support the bearing when pressing in the hub.
Anyways, good luck with your decision. Just remember, tools are investment.
Awesome video guys, thanks a bunch. I don't have my own press, sure wish I could do this all myself! I noticed the axle appears to have an additional seal that mates with the knuckle/inner seal. Can you comment on that and why you maybe didn't bother replacing that as well?
Hey Tom, glad you like the video. As for the seals, we replaced all of them. Can you provide a timestamp to the part that shows what you're referring to?
@@TimmyTheToolman I think that @Tom Hernandez is talking about the dust seal on the outboard side of the CV axle. I had the same question. I think it is the dust seal 90080-30028 (but am not quite sure on that PN) that interfaces with the inner wheel seal 90316-69001.
@@averycook6854 On the 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma axles, there is no seal on the outboard side of the axle. There's a seal on the backside of the knuckle, but not on the axle itself. There is a metal disk on the inboard side of the axle that works as sort of a dust seal to keep larger contaminants out of the differential.
Hey tim, im doing this job on my 2004 tundra next week, both sides. Aside from potentially a few different parts numbers, is the construction/process the same? Thanks!
I've never done the job on a 1st Gen Tundra, but I've handled the steering knuckles before and they look pretty much identical to the 3rd Gen 4runner and 1st Gen Tacoma axles. It's my best guess the process is identical.