Just fyi manual trans come with oil cooler also. The difference is with this option, when you look at the block there are two locations already. With oil cooler, the cooler will be mounted towards the front of the block and the oil filter spins right behind it and the other location right behind it will have a half dome cover sealing the block. Without oil cooler the filter will be mounted on the rear boss with the half dome cover sealing the front boss. The cooler lines don’t go in the radiator. One goes in the side of the block and the other goes right to the water pump. These two locations are on the drive side of the block and are raised bosses that look just like where where oil filters spin on.
You're absolutely right. After I made this I went and looked and I have the one on the drivers side towards the rear of the block. I looked it up and sure enough. I didn't even know! That's one thing I never had to even deal with on these motors yet. Fingers crossed! Thanks Dan!! Anyone wondering, Dan has your info. Pinned to the top!
95 3vze manual extended cab 4x4.Got 370k miles from the first engine.Head gasket leak.😂Put a engine in with 147k Always runs like a champ. Looks great. Lots of compliments and thumbs up. Offers to buy. But I ❤my Toy😂.Done just about all of the maintenance and repairs myself. It's not fast. But it is awesome 👌
Currently installing a jdm 3.0 in my 91 4runner 58k miles and 205 lbs in all cylinders... Did a lot of research before making my decision and I'm stepping up to a racing radiator 4 core instead of the stock single core
I use a lot of Beck/Arnley parts from Rock Auto. Quite often, they're made in Japan. I also switched to Aisin hubs because I have a Detroit Truetrac front diff I might install one day.
So such a great information I have learned so much about my truck I’m no a mechanic but buy mine new 91 V6 four by four that I never have used but I like what I have! Thanks.
Love your reviews, guidance these videos are awesome. I just recently got a Gen2 as a weekend hobby car... I have a Gen5 for daily. One quick question on the head gasket ... you mentioned that you had a recall... I checked mine and there was no recall for safety or service campaign... I have 230k on the clock... did the maintenance as you advised...
Yeah some years had a recall, early years part way through 92 I believe. Later ones were correct from the factory. Have fun with your toy! Yeah keep up on maintaining it and you'll have loads of fun!
Nope, I got it maybe 12 years ago, or a little more? I'm keeping mine forever too, they just don't make em like this anymore. I'm not a fan of modern stuff....to big, too posh, and too complicated. Good luck with yours!
Ok I am a subscriber and seeking advice. For 25 years I own a 1990 4Runner SR5 with the 3VZE, 5 sp Manual transmission, located in Arizona. No Rust. So when Cyl 6 blew the gasket, it sat for four years and I took it to have the engine totally rebuilt, as everything else works. It is at an engine builder shop. They have experience. That was in December. So it is totally rebuilt, top and bottom. It is stock, new pistons and refurb Toyota heads & cams. There was some rust in the engine. Pitting, that was fixed. It has a rebuilt distributor assembly because the old distributer was original, it has rust. They are having a timing issue where it won't run right at 10 degrees and maybe if they set at 15 degrees engine might ping (detonate) it has fresh gas. They did a good job on the engine, just can't get the timing right. Do you think I might need a new engine control module or a modified module to get the timing correct? Was it a mistake to trade in that old distributor as a core? Any advice?
It's hard to say without being there to test things. I wouldn't assume that you need a new computer yet. At 15 degrees it's very likely to ping, so that's normal. I'm wondering if they are doing the procedure correctly. Warming the engine up to operating temp. Turning it off. Jumping the right pins. Then starting it up and checking the timing that way.
@@AgileWoodsman the thirty-year-old distributor original Denso traded it as a core and got a rebuilt. That got me a little nervous. Because the original distributor work but it was Rusty there was water in the engine
I just got a beautiful 90 xtracab 4X4 V6 auto with every factory option original paint survivor perfect interior bought it from original owner. 250k... I got fuel in one of my vacuum switching valves the block of 4 on fender I think it’s the one closest to firewall was wondering how that is? Like raw fuel not just odor. Great content thanks!
I have been having an issues with my 93 4Runner it has 220k miles. It seems to have low power sometimes particularly uphill and sometimes randomly when I start it up, it will idle extremely low like 400rpm it won’t stall out it is just hardly running... but still runs and drives fine and stops idling low after I drive it
Check for vacuum leaks for sure. Also the cold start injector. And low power up hills is normal for these to be honest. Also as always, basic maintenance. Fresh, clean air filter (I had a dirty one that killed my power once) plugs, cap, rotor, etc.
Definitely check what agile woodsman said. Also double check that the Throttle Position Sensor is in spec, you just need a multimeter. While you’re in there replace the rubber o-ring for the idle adjustment screw. You can find instructions in a FSM online
@@AgileWoodsman my 92 sr5 has 190 lbs on the right side and 140 on the left. Top end was rebuilt 3 k miles back . Rebuilder says not my fault. Service center says not sure what it is. Any best guess would be appreciated.
3.0 3vze motor in an 89 pickup 4x4 with manual trans. Getting a ticking sound,, have seen countless videos with people asking what the noise is, but the replies are all over the place,,, I’ve heard it’s the reed valve, valve adjustment, harmonic balancer, spun rod bearing,,, again, all over the place. The sound is at It’s loudest when you listen under passenger side of motor. My guess is a spun bearing,,, what do you think? From what I’ve seen online, It sounds like a common problem. Thx.
Tengo una Toyota 1995 , 4×4 , 6cil, automática , motor 3.0. Le hice un overhall completo incluido pistones nuevos. Corre muy bien en Llanos , pero cuando comienza en cuestas empieza a perder fuerza. Me dicen que es el Knock Sensor pero se le puso nuevo. Tiene la luz de check engine prendida y también la de Anti rear lock brake. Sólo tiene una intermitencia que la hace algunas veces. Si me puedes ayudar estaré agradecido , pues no la voy a vender.
Hey man love the content, keep it coming. Quick question. But what's the go-to route when the 3vze starts to consume oil? Nothing crazy either, only losing 1/2 quart like every 500 miles. I don't have a leak either. I do know that the main thing is to start using a thicker oil but I just want some expert advice. P.S. she runs like a dream thoe and I wanna keep it like that 😄
Even without an external leak it's best to figure out where that oil is going. Does the exhaust smell like burnt oil? I'd probably do a compression and leak down test for starters, make sure the piston rings are good. Next maybe valve guides. Also this motor can have sneaky external leaks, like the oil cooler towards the back of the block on the drivers side. Thicker oil is a last resort. Let us know if you find anything!
@@AgileWoodsman Thanks for the reply. Yeah this is a tricky one but like I mentioned before, no external leak I can see, (even took it to a trusted mechanic of mine) no smell of burning oil or anything. The compression rating was good too. I had the PCV valve changed so hopefully I'll see an improvement in the next few hundred miles or so. Thank you for the advice and keep it up. Us 2nd generation owners need you lol 😄
Thanks for watching! I like your idea but that's more ambition than I have..... If I ever need to do it, I'll film it. Are you sure you need to take the manifold off? I'd double check that.
Thank you for sharing your experiences! I am the proud owner of a 95 3.0 auto 4x4 with 320k and now have a new gremlin I’m chasing. To me it seems like a vapor lock issue, but the engine will stall while driving, it will start up once right after, then stall again with a no start until I let it sit for a couple hours. I do not seem to have this issue in cold weather (live in Tucson, AZ). When this happens my thermostat gauge reads normal, but the radiator is older so perhaps not at full efficiency, causing the fuel to vaporize in the engine bay while running? Any words of wisdom are much appreciated. Thank You!
Yeah it could be vapor lock. I've also seen sensors stop working when they get hot...like they are getting ready to fail but not quite there yet. I would check vapor lock and electrical. It can be time consuming unfortunately.
92 3vze 126k miles truck is a cream puff. Starts easy every time ,idles fine. During slow acceleration hits a wall engine miss fires.holding accelerator engine slowly smooths out and mover truck forward. Any help will be appreciated. Does not throw any check engine codes.
Hard to say, could be lots of things. But I always like to start off simple. It sounds like lack of fuel or the timing is just way way off. I would check the fuel filter. Just change it. After that fuel pressure at the injector rail. Also if it hasn't had a good tune up in a long time, check the spark plugs, cap and rotor. Also plug and coil wires. Sometimes they can arch out to ground in strange ways.
I have a 94 pickup 3vze 130,000 miles. For some reason after its warmed up and I park it to go in the store or something after 15 or so min. When I come back out to drive it idles really low to where it will die if not giving it gas. If I drive for about ten min it goes back to normal. Ive also noticed sitting at idle RPMs slowly go down after several min. Around 20 min or so. Any ideas? Love the content and new sub from Kentucky! Thanks
Yeah man, mine was doing that, and I found a vacuum leak, a crack in the air hose going from the filter to the throttle body. So maybe check for vacuum leaks first, all that rubber is getting old now! It also might be a sensor reacting to heat soak, but I'd go simple first.
Yeah front suspension, and then there are several on the drive shafts, both on the slip joints and the double cardan joints, or double U joints. You might have to jack the axle up and rotate the driveshaft to find them.
I'm a young guy at about 25. I own a '92 3.0 manual 4WD that's been in the family since my grandfather bought it new. Before me, it sat pretty still for a few years, but it's just over 206k, and I intend to get it over 250 before anything seriously goes wrong. There are minor rust spots, but nothing structural, and I'm trying to get it completely up and healthy before a really long road trip I plan on taking it on with a friend sometime soon. It idles just a tad high (right around 1000), I replaced the steering pump and clutch slave cylinder after their sudden failures, rear diff gasket, all the brakes, new tires, CVs are the next major thing. Is there any absolutely essential maintenance you recommend besides a tune-up to keep her running another 28 years? I absolutely adore it and want to keep it strong for as long as I can.
Keep everything lubed, greased, fluids changed. Extended maintenance stuff on real old cars can sometimes mean bushings, rubber vacuum hoses, stuff that doesn't really wear out quickly but can deteriorate with age. Get the radiator looked at by a shop just for fun. Mine worked but was just not doing a good job and was close to failing. The new one made a huge difference. Awesome that you are keeping that one in the family!!!
I have 1992 Toyota 4Runner V6 3.0 EFI. After the engine has warmed up in idle and I shift from park to drive the engine dies. I removed the throttle body and cleaned and adjusted the IAC still does the same thing . The Toyota dealer had my SUV for two days and couldn’t recreate the problem. All diagnostics passed. Any suggestions what the problem could be.
Ran advanced diog test te2 to e1 Drove 3vze 25 miles Changed sst to te1 to e1. Instead of error codes. O/d and engine light flash continuously. Any idea what it is trying to tell me?
The previous owner did the timing belt & water pump in 2002 at 80k. The vehicle now has 108k. Would you do the timing belt again because it’s been so much time?
Yeah wow that's a long time ago. I'd probably err on the side of caution and do it anyway, even though it's only got 30k on it. Better safe than sorry?
Sam Zook I have a 1990 Toyota v6 pickup that I've had for 32 yrs. Very reliable. My problem is low idle speed. Idle adjustment screw in throttle body doesn't change any thing. I've been told the throttle body needs to be replaced but you can't find them. Can I rebuild it? Do you know of any video's that could help? Thanks
Just bought a 1993 Toyota pickup 3.0 4x4 couple months ago. Cleaned up the frame and under coated it right away cuz I live in the rust belt (MN). My has 245000 miles on it and it purrs. I don’t believe the head gasket has ever been changed. Would you recommend getting that done anyway or drive it as is? My rear end is also sagging a bit I’m wondering if you know of a good OEM quality leaf spring brand?
Just check and see if the recall was done on yours for the head gasket. But if it's not broke and has been good all this time, why mess with it right? Springs I have no idea. OEM is not available. I know for coils on 4Runners we just typically go with springs from an aftermarket company like Old Man Emu or something. You might be able to find a spring shop (rare these days) that can re arch your springs or add a leaf.
Also with the rust, these frames will most often rust from the inside out. SO maybe give it good flushes on the inside with a garden hose, especially after the road salt season!
@@StubbornOffroad Lucky you. That's one of my key criteria for when I move out of here, hopefully once the markets all settle down or make some kind of sense lol.
A good way to tell the difference between the 2nd and 3rd from behind is the wiper location in relation to the back window. 2nd gen is on top where as 3rd is on bottom.
Greetings... 95 3.0.. 4 runner.. I have jsut replaced the head gaskets, injectors, timing, water pump, starter, radiator, I put everything back together, checked an ddouble checked everything,, Timing is perfect, good spark to plugs, it appears all should be well.. HOWEVER.. I put a new battery in.. and away I tried to start... it cranks but no fire.. In attempting to get the trouble codes.... the check engine lite just continuously blinks and never stops... ALSO the battery indicator lite is blinking ,, when I have a new battery.. . any suggestions... ? next on the list is we are going to check the fuel pressure regulator and such..
@@mendoblendo321 ... Greetings and hello. I do apologize in the delay in responding to you , however I am in deep mental therapy after time spent trying to solve my 4 runner issues..( ha ha). Here is a quick overview of my accomplishment, failures and current situation. Replaced everything on the top and front of the motor,. In trying to adjust the TPS, and throttle body I have made no progress in getting a consistent idle speed and throttle response. I have monkeyed with the timing 230 times at least thinking that is the issue. ON the rare occasion I can get it started, I have NO power in any gear except first gear * 5 speed manual* when shfting to second and maybe third it stalls and dies if I dont have the RPM wound up over 4000. My task this weekend is to remove the throttle body and go over it again and see what I can find. I am doing a compression test on the cylinders also ad will let you know the results.. It recently had codes of 14, 24. BUT the ignitor seems fine and the MAF checks out within specs.... I drove it 55 miles the other day and used 1/2 tank of fuel.. and never got over 50 miles an hour... NO horsepower at all * except going downhill * THANK you for your time and expertise..
Just bought a 95 4x4 auto 261k miles and starts and runs fine. No codes throwing but seems the engine runs hot pretty fast. No lights are on. Any ideas why? What should I do to clean her up for starters
Yeah definitely. I'd check out the state of the cooling system for starters. Make sure everything is there. It's full of coolant. Make sure the fan is operating properly and the clutch is engaging when it's hot. Inspect all the components, visually, looking for anything obviously broken or wore out. Next make sure the thermostat is operating properly, opening and closing when needed. It might be stuck closed or not opening fully so the coolant isn't circulating to the radiator. Also make sure there is no air in the system by bleeding the cooling system. Also I would do a good cooling system flush. After all these years they can get full of crud in the passages. If you're unsure how to do any of this head to Yotatech.com, lots of how to articles over there! Good luck!
@@AgileWoodsman awesome dude thank you. I've had if almost a year no issues. Sometimes throws a code 52 and drives sluggish. So I plan to change the sensor snd harness. And then timing belt, water pump, thermostat, tensioner, gaskets and I'm thinking valve gaskets as well
Excellent. Glad you are back and well. I am the retired chiropractor with the '90 3VZE pickup. Thanks for the shout-out on your new video. I had no luck trying to change the PVC valve without removing the intake manifold, but the good news is I am now leaking oil at the valve cover gasket so I get to remove the intake after all. What else should I do while I am in there besides the PCV valve and spark plugs? Is it a good idea to have the injectors cleaned and flow tested or replaced with new ones? Also, installing a new CSF 3-core copper/brass radiator, Denso cap & thermostat. The current rad. is 23 years old. No leaks but I am sure it's not giving me peak cooling. While I'm in there is there anything else I should do? The timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, and oil pressure sensor were replaced at 140K and I am now at 159K. Thanks
Yeah I think I've got a small valve cover leak as well. Not looking forward to fixing that. Yeah gaskets, PCV valve, and there are several sensors at the back of the motor under the manifold. The most common one to give trouble is the knock sensor. It's under the plenum right in the middle of the block. I'm not even 100% sure you can get to it with just the manifold off but worth a look. www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/63293-knock-sensor-location.html
I just bought a used 91’ with 138k. The engine got really messed up some how by first owner, so second owner had the entire engine redone. He sold it to me cuz it wasn’t running right. Come to find out he just didn’t do the timing right when he changed the belt. I’m wondering did this mess up my engine at all, being that it was driven like this for about 400 miles with the new engine? Also, since the engine is now technically a 3.1, how will this effect its air/fuel mix, compression... etc? Do I have to mess with the computer or will this compensate itself?
The tps will never be in spec I got 4 different ones from Toyota none of them were in spec. Asked the Toyota tech and he said "we don't do it that way" he told us to run it full open throttle and adjust it till it dies then lift it up a bit and bolt it down. Lmao
Just fyi manual trans come with oil cooler also. The difference is with this option, when you look at the block there are two locations already. With oil cooler, the cooler will be mounted towards the front of the block and the oil filter spins right behind it and the other location right behind it will have a half dome cover sealing the block. Without oil cooler the filter will be mounted on the rear boss with the half dome cover sealing the front boss. The cooler lines don’t go in the radiator. One goes in the side of the block and the other goes right to the water pump. These two locations are on the drive side of the block and are raised bosses that look just like where where oil filters spin on.
You're absolutely right. After I made this I went and looked and I have the one on the drivers side towards the rear of the block. I looked it up and sure enough. I didn't even know! That's one thing I never had to even deal with on these motors yet. Fingers crossed!
Thanks Dan!!
Anyone wondering, Dan has your info. Pinned to the top!
Just bought 1995 SR5 4Runner with 302,000 miles . 3.0 did its job in this one.
Thanks from a Subaru nerd with his first Toyota
I love my 3.0 4Runner it’s got 312000 miles on it and running perfect.
Thanks for your videos very informative
any major issues?
95 3vze manual extended cab 4x4.Got 370k miles from the first engine.Head gasket leak.😂Put a engine in with 147k Always runs like a champ.
Looks great. Lots of compliments and thumbs up.
Offers to buy. But I ❤my Toy😂.Done just about all of the maintenance and repairs myself. It's not fast. But it is awesome 👌
Just solid, classy, durable rigs! I sometimes get people knocking on my door wanting to buy mine. I just ask a ridiculous price for it lol.
Glad go hear you're doing better and that you're back! Looking forward to more 3.0 vids!
THank you so much!! I appreciate that. More coming up!
Still running my 1988 Long bed 3.0 4×4. It does the job out in the desert!
Great! Keep it. Those things are worth money now!
@@AgileWoodsman thank you
Currently installing a jdm 3.0 in my 91 4runner 58k miles and 205 lbs in all cylinders... Did a lot of research before making my decision and I'm stepping up to a racing radiator 4 core instead of the stock single core
I'm surprised yours was single core from the factory! Sounds like a perfect upgrade!
Grasias explicas muy bien.good. I love toyota.
De nada! And muchas gracias! I do too. This is the best car I've ever owned as far as ruggedness and durability.
I use a lot of Beck/Arnley parts from Rock Auto. Quite often, they're made in Japan. I also switched to Aisin hubs because I have a Detroit Truetrac front diff I might install one day.
Ahh good tip I didn't know that. And yeah the aisins are the way to go!
So such a great information I have learned so much about my truck I’m no a mechanic but buy mine new 91 V6 four by four that I never have used but I like what I have! Thanks.
Thanks for watching!! Enjoy your rig!
New subscriber glad I found your channel I have a 90 sr5 4 runner with 100,000 miles
THanks for the sub! Enjoy your 2nd gen, it's just getting broken in!!
One thing I always do is maintain my manuel hubs, I avoid mud as much as possible.
Dry desert out here.
Top class
Love your reviews, guidance these videos are awesome. I just recently got a Gen2 as a weekend hobby car... I have a Gen5 for daily.
One quick question on the head gasket ... you mentioned that you had a recall... I checked mine and there was no recall for safety or service campaign... I have 230k on the clock... did the maintenance as you advised...
Yeah some years had a recall, early years part way through 92 I believe. Later ones were correct from the factory.
Have fun with your toy! Yeah keep up on maintaining it and you'll have loads of fun!
Did you buy yours new?
I have 1990 with 123k miles, hoping to keep her running for the rest of my life.
Love these videos!
Nope, I got it maybe 12 years ago, or a little more? I'm keeping mine forever too, they just don't make em like this anymore. I'm not a fan of modern stuff....to big, too posh, and too complicated. Good luck with yours!
Ok I am a subscriber and seeking advice. For 25 years I own a 1990 4Runner SR5 with the 3VZE, 5 sp Manual transmission, located in Arizona. No Rust. So when Cyl 6 blew the gasket, it sat for four years and I took it to have the engine totally rebuilt, as everything else works. It is at an engine builder shop.
They have experience. That was in December. So it is totally rebuilt, top and bottom.
It is stock, new pistons and refurb Toyota heads & cams. There was some rust in the engine. Pitting, that was fixed. It has a rebuilt distributor assembly because the old distributer was original, it has rust. They are having a timing issue where it won't run right at 10 degrees and maybe if they set at 15 degrees engine might ping (detonate) it has fresh gas. They did a good job on the engine, just can't get the timing right. Do you think I might need a new engine control module or a modified module to get the timing correct? Was it a mistake to trade in that old distributor as a core? Any advice?
It's hard to say without being there to test things. I wouldn't assume that you need a new computer yet.
At 15 degrees it's very likely to ping, so that's normal.
I'm wondering if they are doing the procedure correctly. Warming the engine up to operating temp. Turning it off. Jumping the right pins. Then starting it up and checking the timing that way.
@@AgileWoodsman the thirty-year-old distributor original Denso traded it as a core and got a rebuilt. That got me a little nervous. Because the original distributor work but it was Rusty there was water in the engine
@@tonyisme4934 A distributor issue might be a problem but unlikely. If you remove it give the shaft a wiggle and see if there is play in it.
I just got a beautiful 90 xtracab 4X4 V6 auto with every factory option original paint survivor perfect interior bought it from original owner. 250k... I got fuel in one of my vacuum switching valves the block of 4 on fender I think it’s the one closest to firewall was wondering how that is? Like raw fuel not just odor. Great content thanks!
I have been having an issues with my 93 4Runner it has 220k miles. It seems to have low power sometimes particularly uphill and sometimes randomly when I start it up, it will idle extremely low like 400rpm it won’t stall out it is just hardly running... but still runs and drives fine and stops idling low after I drive it
Check for vacuum leaks for sure. Also the cold start injector. And low power up hills is normal for these to be honest. Also as always, basic maintenance. Fresh, clean air filter (I had a dirty one that killed my power once) plugs, cap, rotor, etc.
Definitely check what agile woodsman said. Also double check that the Throttle Position Sensor is in spec, you just need a multimeter. While you’re in there replace the rubber o-ring for the idle adjustment screw. You can find instructions in a FSM online
@@Verywell15 Thanks Avery!
@@AgileWoodsman my 92 sr5 has 190 lbs on the right side and 140 on the left.
Top end was rebuilt 3 k miles back . Rebuilder says not my fault. Service center says not sure what it is.
Any best guess would be appreciated.
@@garyvandeputte4047 I got you on the other video!
3.0 3vze motor in an 89 pickup 4x4 with manual trans. Getting a ticking sound,, have seen countless videos with people asking what the noise is, but the replies are all over the place,,, I’ve heard it’s the reed valve, valve adjustment, harmonic balancer, spun rod bearing,,, again, all over the place. The sound is at It’s loudest when you listen under passenger side of motor. My guess is a spun bearing,,, what do you think? From what I’ve seen online, It sounds like a common problem. Thx.
So much info! Thank you!!!!
You are so welcome!
Tengo una Toyota 1995 , 4×4 , 6cil, automática , motor 3.0. Le hice un overhall completo incluido pistones nuevos. Corre muy bien en Llanos , pero cuando comienza en cuestas empieza a perder fuerza. Me dicen que es el Knock Sensor pero se le puso nuevo. Tiene la luz de check engine prendida y también la de Anti rear lock brake. Sólo tiene una intermitencia que la hace algunas veces. Si me puedes ayudar estaré agradecido , pues no la voy a vender.
Try apple cider vinegar on the facial problem. Sometimes a bit of the cider on a piece of napkin taped over the spot makes it go away.
Hey man love the content, keep it coming. Quick question. But what's the go-to route when the 3vze starts to consume oil? Nothing crazy either, only losing 1/2 quart like every 500 miles. I don't have a leak either. I do know that the main thing is to start using a thicker oil but I just want some expert advice.
P.S. she runs like a dream thoe and I wanna keep it like that 😄
Even without an external leak it's best to figure out where that oil is going. Does the exhaust smell like burnt oil? I'd probably do a compression and leak down test for starters, make sure the piston rings are good. Next maybe valve guides. Also this motor can have sneaky external leaks, like the oil cooler towards the back of the block on the drivers side.
Thicker oil is a last resort. Let us know if you find anything!
@@AgileWoodsman Thanks for the reply. Yeah this is a tricky one but like I mentioned before, no external leak I can see, (even took it to a trusted mechanic of mine) no smell of burning oil or anything. The compression rating was good too. I had the PCV valve changed so hopefully I'll see an improvement in the next few hundred miles or so. Thank you for the advice and keep it up. Us 2nd generation owners need you lol 😄
Please do a video on how to replace the injectors step by step with taking intake manifold off. Not many 3vze videos out there
Thanks for watching! I like your idea but that's more ambition than I have.....
If I ever need to do it, I'll film it.
Are you sure you need to take the manifold off? I'd double check that.
@@AgileWoodsman I believe so I have code 25,26,41.
Thank you for sharing your experiences! I am the proud owner of a 95 3.0 auto 4x4 with 320k and now have a new gremlin I’m chasing. To me it seems like a vapor lock issue, but the engine will stall while driving, it will start up once right after, then stall again with a no start until I let it sit for a couple hours. I do not seem to have this issue in cold weather (live in Tucson, AZ). When this happens my thermostat gauge reads normal, but the radiator is older so perhaps not at full efficiency, causing the fuel to vaporize in the engine bay while running? Any words of wisdom are much appreciated. Thank You!
Yeah it could be vapor lock. I've also seen sensors stop working when they get hot...like they are getting ready to fail but not quite there yet. I would check vapor lock and electrical. It can be time consuming unfortunately.
@@AgileWoodsman which sensors would you recommend checking first? I know most are a bear to get to.
92 3vze 126k miles truck is a cream puff.
Starts easy every time ,idles fine. During slow acceleration hits a wall engine miss fires.holding accelerator engine slowly smooths out and mover truck forward. Any help will be appreciated. Does not throw any check engine codes.
Hard to say, could be lots of things. But I always like to start off simple. It sounds like lack of fuel or the timing is just way way off.
I would check the fuel filter. Just change it. After that fuel pressure at the injector rail.
Also if it hasn't had a good tune up in a long time, check the spark plugs, cap and rotor.
Also plug and coil wires. Sometimes they can arch out to ground in strange ways.
Did I see in one of your videos an oil additive that you use? I have gone back but cannot find it. Thanks.
I have a 94 pickup 3vze 130,000 miles. For some reason after its warmed up and I park it to go in the store or something after 15 or so min. When I come back out to drive it idles really low to where it will die if not giving it gas. If I drive for about ten min it goes back to normal. Ive also noticed sitting at idle RPMs slowly go down after several min. Around 20 min or so. Any ideas?
Love the content and new sub from Kentucky! Thanks
Yeah man, mine was doing that, and I found a vacuum leak, a crack in the air hose going from the filter to the throttle body. So maybe check for vacuum leaks first, all that rubber is getting old now! It also might be a sensor reacting to heat soak, but I'd go simple first.
@@AgileWoodsman thanks for the reply! Keep up the good work.
I got the same problem
I’m on board with that maintenance vid I was greasing my truck but I feel like I missed a bunch I looked in the manual but I can’t see the others
Yeah front suspension, and then there are several on the drive shafts, both on the slip joints and the double cardan joints, or double U joints. You might have to jack the axle up and rotate the driveshaft to find them.
i have issues with stalling out frequently with my 3.0 also lack of power.
Fuel and air filters, tune up if it hasn't been done in a while, and check for vacuum leaks. Also check for codes!
I'm a young guy at about 25. I own a '92 3.0 manual 4WD that's been in the family since my grandfather bought it new. Before me, it sat pretty still for a few years, but it's just over 206k, and I intend to get it over 250 before anything seriously goes wrong. There are minor rust spots, but nothing structural, and I'm trying to get it completely up and healthy before a really long road trip I plan on taking it on with a friend sometime soon.
It idles just a tad high (right around 1000), I replaced the steering pump and clutch slave cylinder after their sudden failures, rear diff gasket, all the brakes, new tires, CVs are the next major thing. Is there any absolutely essential maintenance you recommend besides a tune-up to keep her running another 28 years? I absolutely adore it and want to keep it strong for as long as I can.
Keep everything lubed, greased, fluids changed. Extended maintenance stuff on real old cars can sometimes mean bushings, rubber vacuum hoses, stuff that doesn't really wear out quickly but can deteriorate with age.
Get the radiator looked at by a shop just for fun. Mine worked but was just not doing a good job and was close to failing. The new one made a huge difference.
Awesome that you are keeping that one in the family!!!
I have 1992 Toyota 4Runner V6 3.0 EFI. After the engine has warmed up in idle and I shift from park to drive the engine dies. I removed the throttle body and cleaned and adjusted the IAC still does the same thing . The Toyota dealer had my SUV for two days and couldn’t recreate the problem. All diagnostics passed. Any suggestions what the problem could be.
Wat can you tell Me about the crossover pipe some people say cause headgasket failure ?
Ran advanced diog test te2 to e1
Drove 3vze 25 miles
Changed sst to te1 to e1.
Instead of error codes.
O/d and engine light flash continuously.
Any idea what it is trying to tell me?
The previous owner did the timing belt & water pump in 2002 at 80k. The vehicle now has 108k. Would you do the timing belt again because it’s been so much time?
Yeah wow that's a long time ago. I'd probably err on the side of caution and do it anyway, even though it's only got 30k on it. Better safe than sorry?
Is it possible to have a bad EGR but no engine light???
My brakes lose about 95% of its pressure when hot. Yes it's scary. Do you know what may cause this?
Thinking about getting a 93 Dually 3.0 Auto flatbed for my business. Wondering how it will do down the highway with weight on it..
Honestly, slow. If you live in a flat area you might be ok but hills or mountains won't be fun. And either way you'll be the slowest guy out there.
Sam Zook
I have a 1990 Toyota v6 pickup that I've had for 32 yrs. Very reliable. My problem is low idle speed. Idle adjustment screw in throttle body doesn't change any thing. I've been told the throttle body needs to be replaced but you can't find them. Can I rebuild it? Do you know of any video's that could help? Thanks
ua-cam.com/video/i3ITYoNAUTY/v-deo.html&ab_channel=PracticalEnthusiast is one option
Just bought a 1993 Toyota pickup 3.0 4x4 couple months ago. Cleaned up the frame and under coated it right away cuz I live in the rust belt (MN). My has 245000 miles on it and it purrs. I don’t believe the head gasket has ever been changed. Would you recommend getting that done anyway or drive it as is? My rear end is also sagging a bit I’m wondering if you know of a good OEM quality leaf spring brand?
Just check and see if the recall was done on yours for the head gasket. But if it's not broke and has been good all this time, why mess with it right?
Springs I have no idea. OEM is not available. I know for coils on 4Runners we just typically go with springs from an aftermarket company like Old Man Emu or something. You might be able to find a spring shop (rare these days) that can re arch your springs or add a leaf.
Also with the rust, these frames will most often rust from the inside out. SO maybe give it good flushes on the inside with a garden hose, especially after the road salt season!
I push 38x1350x17 Mickey Thompson. Put a 92 toyota Camry vafam and it will wake it up
I bet! No trouble with emissions regs? They are STRICT here in California!
@@AgileWoodsman none of that nonsense regulations here
@@StubbornOffroad Lucky you. That's one of my key criteria for when I move out of here, hopefully once the markets all settle down or make some kind of sense lol.
how do you identify the difference between gen 1,2,3,4 etc.
A good way to tell the difference between the 2nd and 3rd from behind is the wiper location in relation to the back window. 2nd gen is on top where as 3rd is on bottom.
Greetings... 95 3.0.. 4 runner.. I have jsut replaced the head gaskets, injectors, timing, water pump, starter, radiator, I put everything back together, checked an ddouble checked everything,, Timing is perfect, good spark to plugs, it appears all should be well.. HOWEVER.. I put a new battery in.. and away I tried to start... it cranks but no fire.. In attempting to get the trouble codes.... the check engine lite just continuously blinks and never stops... ALSO the battery indicator lite is blinking ,, when I have a new battery.. .
any suggestions... ? next on the list is we are going to check the fuel pressure regulator and such..
Ever figure it out
@@mendoblendo321 . Hello . No, in fact things have gotten worse..let me get where I can write details and I would really appreciate your imputv
@@muggyjones5538 yeah dude keep me in the loop. Working on runner tonight all be on the message board
@@mendoblendo321 ... Greetings and hello. I do apologize in the delay in responding to you , however I am in deep mental therapy after time spent trying to solve my 4 runner issues..( ha ha). Here is a quick overview of my accomplishment, failures and current situation. Replaced everything on the top and front of the motor,. In trying to adjust the TPS, and throttle body I have made no progress in getting a consistent idle speed and throttle response. I have monkeyed with the timing 230 times at least thinking that is the issue. ON the rare occasion I can get it started, I have NO power in any gear except first gear * 5 speed manual* when shfting to second and maybe third it stalls and dies if I dont have the RPM wound up over 4000. My task this weekend is to remove the throttle body and go over it again and see what I can find. I am doing a compression test on the cylinders also ad will let you know the results.. It recently had codes of 14, 24. BUT the ignitor seems fine and the MAF checks out within specs.... I drove it 55 miles the other day and used 1/2 tank of fuel.. and never got over 50 miles an hour... NO horsepower at all * except going downhill *
THANK you for your time and expertise..
Just bought a 95 4x4 auto
261k miles and starts and runs fine.
No codes throwing but seems the engine runs hot pretty fast.
No lights are on.
Any ideas why? What should I do to clean her up for starters
Yeah definitely. I'd check out the state of the cooling system for starters. Make sure everything is there.
It's full of coolant.
Make sure the fan is operating properly and the clutch is engaging when it's hot. Inspect all the components, visually, looking for anything obviously broken or wore out.
Next make sure the thermostat is operating properly, opening and closing when needed. It might be stuck closed or not opening fully so the coolant isn't circulating to the radiator.
Also make sure there is no air in the system by bleeding the cooling system.
Also I would do a good cooling system flush. After all these years they can get full of crud in the passages.
If you're unsure how to do any of this head to Yotatech.com, lots of how to articles over there! Good luck!
@@AgileWoodsman awesome dude thank you. I've had if almost a year no issues. Sometimes throws a code 52 and drives sluggish. So I plan to change the sensor snd harness. And then timing belt, water pump, thermostat, tensioner, gaskets and I'm thinking valve gaskets as well
Excellent. Glad you are back and well. I am the retired chiropractor with the '90 3VZE pickup. Thanks for the shout-out on your new video. I had no luck trying to change the PVC valve without removing the intake manifold, but the good news is I am now leaking oil at the valve cover gasket so I get to remove the intake after all. What else should I do while I am in there besides the PCV valve and spark plugs? Is it a good idea to have the injectors cleaned and flow tested or replaced with new ones? Also, installing a new CSF 3-core copper/brass radiator, Denso cap & thermostat. The current rad. is 23 years old. No leaks but I am sure it's not giving me peak cooling. While I'm in there is there anything else I should do? The timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, and oil pressure sensor were replaced at 140K and I am now at 159K. Thanks
Yeah I think I've got a small valve cover leak as well. Not looking forward to fixing that.
Yeah gaskets, PCV valve, and there are several sensors at the back of the motor under the manifold. The most common one to give trouble is the knock sensor. It's under the plenum right in the middle of the block. I'm not even 100% sure you can get to it with just the manifold off but worth a look. www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/63293-knock-sensor-location.html
@@AgileWoodsman can you do a video on the knock sensor please? My comes on sometimes and it boggs down.
What coolant should I need running in my 3.0?
I just run regular old green. I'd just stick with what you have in there. Don't change colors I mean.
@@AgileWoodsman yeah I run green I was thinking about switching to toyota red and doing a whole coolant flush with water and detergents
@@coop_69 Yep just flush it really well like you said!
@@coop_69 I've been reading the red is way better and what we should be running
Sounds like the 3VZE is the EJ25D of Toyota lol
apple cider vinegar for the spot on your cheek.
I just bought a used 91’ with 138k. The engine got really messed up some how by first owner, so second owner had the entire engine redone. He sold it to me cuz it wasn’t running right. Come to find out he just didn’t do the timing right when he changed the belt. I’m wondering did this mess up my engine at all, being that it was driven like this for about 400 miles with the new engine? Also, since the engine is now technically a 3.1, how will this effect its air/fuel mix, compression... etc? Do I have to mess with the computer or will this compensate itself?
The tps will never be in spec I got 4 different ones from Toyota none of them were in spec. Asked the Toyota tech and he said "we don't do it that way" he told us to run it full open throttle and adjust it till it dies then lift it up a bit and bolt it down. Lmao
I've never heard of that method haha!!