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Making a 1/3 scale Iron Man Mark VII - 3d printing model by DiD3D
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2024
- In this video I make a 3d printed 1/3 scale Iron Man Mark 7 complete with flash LED lights! It was a ton of fun to make! I really enjoyed having it as a thing to work on in my spare time and found it to be rather laid back and tranquil.
The model I found on cgtrader and it was created by Did3D. You can find it here:
www.cgtrader.c...
There is also a Facebook Support Group dedicated to all DiD3D models and I found it to be VERY helpful anytime I had questions or concerns about how to do something. If you're interested in doing this yourself I highly suggest joining the group.
/ 556503201768588
As I mentioned in the video everything I did was my own process and it did deviate a bit from the instructions provided by DiD3d but mostly because of the paint choices and application. Not all paints work/react the same way so keep that in mind. I spoke to DiD3d about this video and he had some feedback I want to highlight...
He pointed out that I probably didn't need to sand the PLA as much as I did and instead could have relied on the Sandable Filler Primer a bit more and concentrated on sanding that part (this would have drastically cut down the sanding time).
Also in his instructions he mentions to apply a Chrome base under the Red. I used Gold because I had seen "Frankly Built"s youtube video where he showed his trial/error of MANY different painting applications of red. Perhaps because I used Rustoleum paint instead of Tamiya but I agreed in Frank's video that the best look resulted from Red on Gold. Your results may very not all paint is the same :D
TIMESTAMPS:
0:00 Intro
0:22 My Goal
0:58 CGTrader IronMan
1:26 My Process
2:13 3d Printing
3:17 Sanding Sanding & more Sanding
4:25 Painting Application
7:22 Beginning to put it together
8:11 LEDs, Wires & Soldering
11:43 Final Reveal
13:30 Outro
Things I used in this build:
3d Printer
www.amazon.com...
3d printing PLA
www.amazon.com...
SANDPAPER
220 grit www.amazon.com...
600 grit www.amazon.com...
1000 grit www.amazon.com...
PAINT (many of these paints you can find much cheaper at an automotive store)
Rustoleum 2-1 filler/sandable primer
www.amazon.com...
Rustoleum Black Primer
www.amazon.com...
Rustoleum Gold
www.amazon.com...
www.amazon.com... (this looks exactly the same as the "bright metallic finish" and can be used instead) I used both throughout and saw no difference even when applying them both on the same part.
Rustoleum Silver
www.amazon.com...
Dupli-color Red
www.amazon.com...
Dupli-color Clear Coat 1K
www.amazon.com...
Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue (for tinting the clear pieces)
www.amazon.com...
ELECTRONICS
Soldering Iron
www.amazon.com...
Extra Solder
www.amazon.com...
Helping Hands
www.amazon.com...
Paint/sanding mask
www.amazon.com...
Arduino Nano (I cut off the long prongs)
www.amazon.com...
USB 5v power
www.amazon.com...
LED Lightstrip
www.amazon.com...
Jumper Wires
www.amazon.com...
26 Gauge Wire (7 colors)
www.amazon.com...
27 ohm resistor
www.amazon.com...
Heatshrink tubing
www.amazon.com...
OTHER USEFUL THINGS
Mounting Putty
www.amazon.com...
Copper Craft Wire .5mm (for Arc Reactor and help running wires)
www.amazon.com...
Gorilla Superglue gel
www.amazon.com...
Non-slip Gorilla Pads. (for under base)
www.amazon.com...
#marvel #ironman #3dprinting #3dprint #3dprinted #tonystark #did3d
This is bad ass.. this is what 3D printing is for.
Definitely need to pre-tin your wires before soldering like this.. makes the wire and pad almost jump together like a magnet
oh thats sounds like a great idea... always more to learn! Thanks for commenting
Tolle Arbeit! Ich weis genau wieviel Arbeit das ist und ich finde es toll das du dir noch mehr Arbeit gemacht hast um alles mit einem Video zu dokumentieren damit wir auch eine Freude daran haben. Danke dafür ;-)
Thank you Thomas, it was definitely a lot of work!
That turned out so awesome bro 👏🏽. Thanks for sharing this with us.
Thanks for commenting Ricky!
It looks amazing! Congrats and much respected for the hard work you put in to see it finished!
Thank you!
Very well done! When it comes to sanding, ABS prints are so much easier to sand and post-process than PLA or PETG.
Damm good than original Marvel Action figure..
Great video
Thank you!
Hey, thank you for the video! I am planning on making this and basing it off of this video
Good luck it's a lot of fun!!
@@thecyberhobbit thank you! I look forward to seeing your future videos!
Very nice man ! Congratulations
Thank you sir!
Well done!
awesome job man came out great
Thanks man!
Really good that you are building/3d printing things like Avengers, i saw your cat on your chair so cute really good video😺👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks man! yeah it's a bit different from my usual Lord of the Rings content but I really enjoyed it. My cat loves this chair... I find him sometimes on it even when I'm not around :D
Wow! Amazing, thanks for the Video!
Thanks for watching! 😁
Awesome build!!
thank you sir!
Fantastic job. Love that shiny finish. I feel your pain when it comes to sanding FDM prints.
That thing is sooooo coooll
Thanks I appreciate it!
Subscribed!
Amazing job.
Thank you!
I still remember my biggest project sanding my D-Walker from the game MGS... It really took a long time😂
I found your video that def looks like it took a while :D Thanks for commenting!
I Feel, as being somewhat advanced with building custom leds...a D1 mini (esp32) board loaded with a prgram WLED, will be better and cheaper than a ardunio. The board is faster too. But you killed it here my dude...killed it! You truly have talent! I'm now myself gonna dive into a big 3D print like this too. Have an Ender 3 S1 pro and just got a bambu P1S which is ungodly fast with amazing detail! Thanks for giving me the knowledge and courage lol
Your probably right about that, though I did arduino because the model comes with code that has Ironman animations already programmed. Have fun and good luck, the Bambu line is great 👍
@@thecyberhobbit Arduino are awesome boards! Better than the esp32...just cost more is all I was meaning. But you really did an amazing job here bud! Truly awesome!
@@Cereal_Killr Thank you sir!
amazing job. fabuloso!!! mis felicitaciones, quedo increible !!
Thank you!
amazing work !
Thanks Max!
Keep it up bro , great job one day you will achieve your dream
Thank you sir!
it pretty a nice and long great works 🤟🏻🤟🏻
Thank you Romain!
Using Flux will help when soldering. It carries the solder into the wires
yeah being a noob to soldering I asssumed the "flux" that was suppose to be in the solder would be enough but next time I'll use it proper! thanks for commenting
Dude your face is so close to the camera that caught me off guard a bit
Haha yeah suddenly BOOM look at my face sorry lol
Amazing video and paint job. Next time you have to solder, use flux to help the solder flow to where it’s supposed to
honestly I was a bit confused about this as I had seen it in some soldering videos. The solder I used supposedly had "flux" in it (2%) so I thought that might be enough. Will def try it next time though.
@@thecyberhobbit There is flux in the solder you're using, that's what's causing the smoke as you melt the solder. The mistake you are doing here is that you are melting the solder on the tip of the iron and then moving it over to the part and smearing it across the joint. When you do it this way the flux burns off and can no longer do it's job (cleaning the joint and promoting the solder to flow). This will create a so called "dry joint" which is a joint that looks dull. A good joint with lead based solder is very shiny. Lead free is also shiny, but less so.
What you should be doing is to apply heat to both the wire and the copper pad and then feed the solder into the joint. This way the flux can do it's job properly and it will be much much faster and easier for you.
You can also add additional flux on the joint before adding the heat which can also make the process easier.
You can also do what's called "pre tinning" which means you will first add a little bit of solder to the parts you wish to join. Then hold them together and apply the soldering iron again to "re-flow" the solder. This can sometimes be easier to do if the parts are flopping around for you. In this case there wont be any flux left so here it can be beneficial to add some flux before joining the parts but it's usually not required.
If you opt to buy some additional flux, make sure you buy flux that is made for electronics. Don't use the stuff they sell at the hardware store that is used for pipe work, it's too aggressive for this type of work.
And if you can still find it, use lead based solder. It's SO much nicer to work with (and no, it's not going to kill you by handling it, just don't eat it and wash your hands after).
You're also using much more solder than you need but that's not really a problem as such, just not necessary.
But to sum it up, the key is to add heat to both parts first, and then add solder.
@@treborrrrr Wow I appreciate all the helpful info! Yeah I was very new to soldering but a lot of what you said makes sense. I will definitely keep it in mind for the next thing I have to solder. Thanks for your time and commenting I really appreciate it!
@@thecyberhobbit No problem :) I hate to see people struggling with soldering when I know how much easier and fun it can be with just a few tweaks to technique so I try to help when I can.
And thank you for posting this video. I've been thinking about printing and painting this particular model for a few months now but I haven't taken the step yet. I recently printed and painted a T800 bust which I wasn't quite happy with so I'm making a new one, but all this sanding sure is boring! :D I do have access to a selection of SLS/SLA printers at work so I'm thinking I might just use those next time to save some sanity.
Can you find me a 1/4scale silver surfer? A 3d print version .what love to have one.........the sideshow version is to expensive......let me know tk painter...
Very excellent attention to details
One question if I may
You made a stand for the parts to help you paint ghem
How did you stick the part to the stand?
Hot glue?
Thanks man, I made the stand with just cardboard and duct tape then to stick the part I used sticky putty.
@@thecyberhobbit thanks a lot
Immense
How did you print the lens on the base? Resin or pla and what color?
Do you mean the windows panel things? it's just white PLA at .1mm layer height... really need your printer calibrated to get good results though, I reprinted those at least 3-4 times before I got good results.
Buy the LEDs separate next time. Also use some flux or better solder with more flux inside. Also apply a little bit of solder to the parts and wire first by heating them up and then add solder. This way you should save some time and nerve’s.
Awesome work!
Thanks Lazy Man! There is actually part of the LED strip inside the base but it's only a little over a foot long so these were just easy to use since I already had it. Yeah it looks like I've got a lot to learn about soldering! Really appreciate you comment!
@@thecyberhobbit Also check out the online calculator for the series resistor needed in front of the LED if you want to have longer lifetimes and prevent heat them up to much. Iam afraid of your model and also the work to replace them. With such a big base you could also checkout these fancy wireless LEDs, maybe it’s an option for another project in future.
@@lazyman1011 I actually did use a resistor for the leds in the base I just didn't go over that in the video. This was included in the instructions that came with the model showing how/which one to use. Wireless LEDs sound like a great idea will def check that out.
an other member of our group have made it in Life Size: ua-cam.com/video/gb-M3xfGitc/v-deo.html
Hey man! Excellent work! I and busy now with sanding and painting & wiring of mine and am having some issues with the arduino, for some reason the arc reactor keeps failing to start properly. It starts fine and begins the light sequence and then I get a red light flicker on the board and it shuts off and then begins again. would you perhaps know why?
I tried asking in the "support group" on facebook but nobody seems to answer anything on there so I am stumped
Hmm I don't really know as this was also my first arduino adventure sorry man... try to message Didier directly on Facebook. I'll look for your post and bump it. Lots of people are on holidays so responses may be slow. Do you have all the leds wired up correctly? I never tested only doing a few of them, I only actually turned it on with everything connected.
@@thecyberhobbit Thanks bud, yeah they are connected properly and regardless of all of them being connected or not doesnt really matter because the info being transmitted to the board work on a on/off basis when on if preforms its current sequence no matter if you are connected or not.
How many percent did you put in the files to make it 1/3?
It's already scaled for 1/3, so use 100%
How much would you charge me if I wanted this printed from you minus the clear parts and wiring and lights mainly just iron man mold
Sorry man I don't really take commissions for this, I only have a small printer and at the moment it needs some repair... BUT you could definitely get this printed at an online 3d print farm and then they will mail it to you. I recommend craftcloud3d, I've used them many times. They have hundreds of printers and they wouldn't charge for failed prints.
Excellent, congratulations it was great. How many kilograms of ABS did you use to print everything?
It was around 2.5 kg of PLA, thanks for commenting 🙂
Did you have to wax it and sand it down after the clear?
I've heard of people applying wax but I didn't do so. I think the Dupli-color 1K Clear did fantastic on its own.
@@thecyberhobbit thanks
@@thecyberhobbitwhat grid of sandpaper would you recommend for something that’s has all ready been painted. I want to redo a iron man 18inch Funko pop paint job if you go to my channel you will see the just okay paint job from the factory I believe this type of paint job on the Funko would be amazing.
@@jayr0950 probably like 120-200 grit... though you may be able to just paint over it with a black primer and skip that all together
@@thecyberhobbit oh really so no sanding needed just use a primer? Only ask because everyone Always says before paint always rough it up. But you definitely know more then me so black primer it is
Круто!!!)))
Bro is very good. Whats Is dimensión to figure un mm or inch
Thank you! it's 62cm tall
@@thecyberhobbit thanks men
This is absolutely amazing!! awesome finish and video was edited to perfection! Thank you! PS-why did you list 2 types of gold spray, did i miss something? :)
Hi Perry, Thanks for the compliment it was a fun project. I think maybe you missed something, there is only 1 type of gold used. Though the can does look very similar to the "Silver" paint used as well
@@thecyberhobbit in the description you listed 2 types of gold!
@@perrywheeler4455 Ohhh I see what you mean... you're right they are different but the paint will look identical and can be interchanged. 1 of them just has a "thicker" coating application. Either can be used.
@@perrywheeler4455 I'll update the description to clarify, thanks!
Thanks Buddy! totally awesome job, result was fantastic-If mine turns out anywhere near as good as yours i'll be very happy!
Amazing work! I just started printing this for my sister's birthday (in December). I took notes on everything you did. Thanks!
Just need to ask you, what size are the leds? I'm looking to buy separate leds, but I'm not sure if they are 5050, or 3030. Thanks again man! Subscribed lml
Oh cool! You'll definitely have some fun! In the description I included a link to the LEDs I used as well as many other things. As far as 5050 or 3030 I'm not sure sorry. I would recommend joining the FB group for DiD3d Support. I asked tons of questions there and always found really helpful responses. Thanks for the sub and commenting :D
@@thecyberhobbit Thank you so much! the Amazon link helped me a lot!!!!! (They are 2835 =D). I hope my final work to be as geat as yours!
@@hugorobson4233 oh great you found it! Good luck dude!!
Hi, could you explain more detailed the setup for arduino in this project? great work !!
Hi there... I probably won't make another video but I can give you a bit more insight. This is a model you need to buy and I don't want to offer Did3Ds work for free.
Also I would recommend joining the Did3d facebook support group. It's basically a place to ask all sorts of questions related to Did3d models. I creator offers great support there.
@@thecyberhobbit please dont post page of manual if the pack is buy normaly the manual is always included in. thanks ;-)
@did3d523 sorry Didier I removed it, apologies
how long it takes to print ?
I did it in about a month, but I took my time. It could easily be printed in a couple weeks
@@thecyberhobbit nice, what printer are you using?
@@kuyastorm3422 I used an Ender 3 Pro, but if you have a resin printer it will go much faster
Awesome
How long did it take you to do it?
about 4 months (though mostly weekends)
fantastic work, what % did you scale this for 1/3?
the model is already sized for 1/3 scale, so printed at 100%. Thanks for commenting :D
@@thecyberhobbit thank you i just found the file on cgtrader and didnt read it was already scaled. Thanks for the swift reply, great content
@@Rawshade thanks man I appreciate it!
Now to print it 300% scale.
Someone in the DiD3D support Facebook group just printed it at 330% it is amazing!
@@thecyberhobbit Hey, BTW, thanks for the painting tips with accessible products!
Можно у вас файлы попросить ? Бесплатно.
hey sorry you'll have to get the files from cgtrader, I put a link in the description of this video. Can't give them for free because it'd sidestep the author who put a lot of time/effort into making it and it'd be unfair for him. I hope you understand.
bro can u electroplating it🥸just curious how it will look like