Changing the diff oils was fairly comprehensible. Thanks a lot for your easy-to-understand instruction videos. I just had the feeling that that the 1,2 l for the rear diff (the non-locking version) are a bit too much - it started dripping out while filling. But it also started dripping out when I opened the filler bolt in the first place. So, I assumed the person who did it before had the same issue. And, if I will do it again I might raise Larry a bit uneven. 🤓 I retrieved black oil ⚫and replaced it with translucent oil 🟡.
Hey thank you so much for all of your videos! I enjoy watching them with my family as we are a Land Rover family as well. I thought I posted my comment but I can't see it. At 4:20 seconds it shows you under the vehicle. Is there a part number on the skid plate behind where you are working? I don't see that part on any of mine, but do see a spot that it could be installed. Thank you again!
Hi @JamesThomas-xk9ro! Thanks for your comment, glad to see everyone watching the videos of course! 😁 I didn't find a real part number, at least not quickly, but I did find a manufacturer code. And if you enter this into Google, the correct part should come up. The manufacturer code for this part of the underride guard is: B53HS03. I hope I was able to help you! Have a nice evening and all the best to you and your family, Peter 👋
Peter, Thank you so very much! I will look up the number and see if I can find it. 👍😎👍 Best to you and your family as well! I was thinking maybe you could do a video of some off-road trails or areas you take your Land Rover as well.
Hey, the oil of the transfer case should be changed all 120.000 km or 75.000 miles or 5 years. I would recommend to do it when changing the oil of the gear box, so all 80.000 km. Next weekend there will be a video here on my channel where I’ll do this. Thanks btw. for your support! Best to you, Peter☺️
Is it safe to use that oil for electronically actuated rear differentials? The heavier oil makes sense but, not sure if the detergent in the electronic differential specific oil is different than the open diff specification.
In principle, the 75W-140 should work without any problems and also offers an advantage with a high trailer load. However, if you tend to operate the vehicle in a cold environment with lower temperatures, I would go for the 90.
@@notthatkindofachannel what i meant was - to learn how to use torque wrench - wrench looks good, but you were tightening the plug after the wrench clicked - that is the moment when you should stop...
👍 Nice work! Mine is Scotia Grey, a colour I haven't seen that often. I never wanted this colour, but now I really like it, especially in combination with black. If you weren't so far away, I'd come round and have my bumper painted! 🎨 Greetings, Peter
@@notthatkindofachannel Well, used after 200.000 km. And I also changed transfer case oil. Low hanging fruits.😁 Transmission oil change/flush is on my bucket list too.
I did a gearbox flush a month ago and the shifting is so much smoother! Can highly recommend it. 👍 The transfer case oil is on my bucket list like so many other things on this Discovery 😄
This video was great and really helped me out. Many thanks! 👌
Thanks for the video mate! Will do this in the next few days
Changing the diff oils was fairly comprehensible. Thanks a lot for your easy-to-understand instruction videos.
I just had the feeling that that the 1,2 l for the rear diff (the non-locking version) are a bit too much - it started dripping out while filling. But it also started dripping out when I opened the filler bolt in the first place. So, I assumed the person who did it before had the same issue. And, if I will do it again I might raise Larry a bit uneven. 🤓
I retrieved black oil ⚫and replaced it with translucent oil 🟡.
Hey thank you so much for all of your videos! I enjoy watching them with my family as we are a Land Rover family as well. I thought I posted my comment but I can't see it. At 4:20 seconds it shows you under the vehicle. Is there a part number on the skid plate behind where you are working? I don't see that part on any of mine, but do see a spot that it could be installed. Thank you again!
Hi @JamesThomas-xk9ro! Thanks for your comment, glad to see everyone watching the videos of course! 😁 I didn't find a real part number, at least not quickly, but I did find a manufacturer code. And if you enter this into Google, the correct part should come up. The manufacturer code for this part of the underride guard is: B53HS03.
I hope I was able to help you! Have a nice evening and all the best to you and your family, Peter 👋
Peter, Thank you so very much! I will look up the number and see if I can find it. 👍😎👍 Best to you and your family as well! I was thinking maybe you could do a video of some off-road trails or areas you take your Land Rover as well.
Another great how-to vid. Do you raise the LR4 to work on it? Thanks. 2012 LR4's R de best.
Thanks 🙏🏻 I only put it in off road height and put some stands under it. That should be enough. Best, Peter
Hi Peter nice video an regarding the Services for Tranfer Gear every how many years o Km must be carried out ? Thanks
Hey, the oil of the transfer case should be changed all 120.000 km or 75.000 miles or 5 years. I would recommend to do it when changing the oil of the gear box, so all 80.000 km. Next weekend there will be a video here on my channel where I’ll do this. Thanks btw. for your support! Best to you, Peter☺️
Hi great video, how do i know if i have an open differential or the etm one? Thx
Do you also see a differential on the rear axle on the 4x4 info screen? If so, then you have one. Best regards, Peter
Is it safe to use that oil for electronically actuated rear differentials? The heavier oil makes sense but, not sure if the detergent in the electronic differential specific oil is different than the open diff specification.
In principle, the 75W-140 should work without any problems and also offers an advantage with a high trailer load. However, if you tend to operate the vehicle in a cold environment with lower temperatures, I would go for the 90.
How do you know if you have the ETM one? Thanks already
You’ll see it in your 4x4 info screen. There is a padlock icon on your rear axle too. Best, Peter
is this the same process for the 2012 LR4 5.0L V8?????????????????
Should be, yes! Best, Peter
Guess what I’m doing next weekend 😂😂👍
🤣 👍🏻 It's such a simple job, but it's so often overlooked or even ignored! Have fun with it 😉
good job, but check some videos about torque wrenches. you have tightened it more, as your wrench had clicked right at the begining of move...
I'll be disposing of them in the near future 😉 They're from my father's time 🙈 and probably the same age as me 😄
@@notthatkindofachannel what i meant was - to learn how to use torque wrench - wrench looks good, but you were tightening the plug after the wrench clicked - that is the moment when you should stop...
Great video! That must be the corris Grey colour, I've just painted one, Check it out 👍
👍 Nice work! Mine is Scotia Grey, a colour I haven't seen that often. I never wanted this colour, but now I really like it, especially in combination with black. If you weren't so far away, I'd come round and have my bumper painted! 🎨 Greetings, Peter
@@notthatkindofachannel Cool, yes it does look good with the black. I like it. Its a nice clean colour. It looks smart.👍
Guess what I did two weeks ago 😊
😄 And how did your oil look?
@@notthatkindofachannel Well, used after 200.000 km. And I also changed transfer case oil. Low hanging fruits.😁 Transmission oil change/flush is on my bucket list too.
I did a gearbox flush a month ago and the shifting is so much smoother! Can highly recommend it. 👍 The transfer case oil is on my bucket list like so many other things on this Discovery 😄
Good video. Just trying to work out if 75W-140 is better or worse in Australia (not Austria)
Think it's better because it is tougher and can withstand higher temperatures. Best, Peter