Johnson 50 hp homemade hydraulic tilt
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- I was tired of wrestling the engine up and down with the manual assist trim cylinder that came with the engine. Trying to find a hydraulic replacement unit for a reasonable price was equally stressful ..... So, Time to build it myself ! The added bonus of this system was the stump knocker engine free boarding option. Feel free to ask questions below or subscribe for detailed parts and schematic availability.
Nice man. can you tell me what parts did you used to build the t n t?
+latinhot24 I went with a welded piston from Surplus Center (1.5x4x.75 DA piston) with 3/4"cross tubes. Since the pins on the engine were 5/8" and 1/2" , I ordered some Oillite brass bushings in 3/4" x 5/8" and 3/4" x 1/2" that matched the width of the cross tubes. The hydraulic fittings Were also available at the same place. The top fitting which worked out well was a 3/8"NPT x 1/4"NPT streeter ell. The bottom was immediately reduced to 1/8"NPT with a streeter ell from there to achieve clearance away from the yolk. All the hydraulic lines were 1/4" NPT fittings.
NOTE: I think a 2"x4" x1" cylinder was available with side facing fittings for more money. And if you can find 1/8" hoses that will be more than big enough to provide adequate fluid xfer to the cylinder. The small bennet tab pump I used would have been fine if a slightly larger diameter cylinder was available. The trim up only works at no-wake speed. I think a 2-1/2" cylinder with 4" travel and side fittings would have worked better in this application. Also be aware that you only have 1-3/8" width for the top cylinder mount. The top tube on my cylinder was 3/4" ID x 1-1/4" and fit perfect, a larger tube ID i.e 1" may fit with some grinding you have to check these clearances out thoroughly.
Finding the correct equipment for this application takes a lot of time and patience as no one seems to have the ideal set up available for a reasonable price. Good luck ..
In this comment I detail the minutiae of the plan
If you can find an old 70hp Johnson around the 80's model with the older style head with water jacket. Use the power tilt trim from this to fit the 40, 50 and 60hp Johnson 1990 model up with the tree side bolt bottom mount clap type. Remove the engine lower cover and carbies to be able to flex the pivot shaft outwards to fit the 3 cylinder power trim unit. You will have to cut off 19mm from the bottom of the original pivot mount to fit first then slide on the replacement power trim. The shafts are the same size so no re-shimming is required and it works a treat. Easy to get replacement part for too unlike for the 40 to 60 hp model. If any of your bolts are siezed remember to use heat to loosen so not to snap them off and put a tap into them and blow the threads out with compressed air. Remember to grease up all your threads before refitting. Good thing is there are plenty of early 70 hp Johnsons out there being sold for parts.
Very nice sir. Way to beat those exorbitant prices for factory units.
Thanks for this. Thinking about getting the Bennet pump as well. Do you have a diagram for the pump to wire it as a dual action? And is the color coding you have accurate to what would need to plug up to the switches?
Just an idea, you could probably get by with just a single action cylinder. This simplifies the plumbing and wiring. The top cylinder hole just has a vent line and you can use a pump with just an on off switch and no complicated valving. One relay energizes the pump to push the motor up, the other relay opens a solenoid valve that releases the oil back into the sump. The pump pushes it up and gravity brings it down. That would also give you protection from hitting unexpected objects. The piston would have have enough resistance to keep the motor down when reversing but would still give some if you hit something, just as the factory unit does.
Sounds good. You build it and show me how it works. Ok cool.
Rock Tech , I love it. I have a complete lift system for a 1964 90 hp Evinrude . I'm going to use the cyl like you did ,add flex braided lines and mount the pump inside where the battery area is . Doing this for a friend on a pontoon 48 HP.spl.
Glad I could help. Remember the back you save could be yours.
@@rocktech7144 Hopefully someday......LOL
Rock tech ,got it done ,works fantastic, thank for sharing your video.
Hi, I've not understand wich pump you have used and the electronic valve, but you can trim the motor when in water? It remains in position with the force of the propeller?
For $300 you can get a used one on fb on line yard sale that’s made for it.
we need more people like you in the world. my younger generation is not capable of mechanical thinking and or knowledge. it's a dying thought. only a few of us left. thanks for passing it on, that's what we do!
Ain't that the truth!👍
very nice job, to me power tilting cuts down on body pains - IMO more important than trim. How did it work out during the year and what would you do different? Thanks
Long shaft Johnson.... they guys that made these motor must have known . 😆
Rock Tech,Do you know the model # to your Johnson motor ?Thanks, John Gómez
Hello, what is the small metal piece that connect to the cable
Like the overall setup, BUT it would have been a lot cheaper to use a used MerCruiser pump assembly. OK, you had the Bennett pump so it didn't cost you, but those suckers are expensive.
Any pump is expensive. I found one for a Volvo outdrive that was only $130, but is the pump volume enough? In this case bigger IS better ... so run what you brung !....
That is awesome! p.s., you sound just like John Goodman
I like to buy your old ones you took out
Badass
Do you know the year of your 70?
Good for you - looks great.
longshaft johnson lok
Any recommendations for the source for the pump and switch?
I have not used this, but here is what I was looking at on ebay : NEW POWER TILT TRIM MOTOR VOLVO PENTA with PUMP 852928 852928-1 EVH4002